loiuzt

W NE OK! LO

Master sewing with lace Easy bust adjustments to try

ISSUE 25

16

INSPIRATIONAL PROJECTS

Cute unicorn embroidery

Your 4-in-1 pattern

Autumnal tweed skirt Simple make-up pouch Quick-make beauty set Geo-print purse

Your 2-in-1 pattern

Everyday fitted dress

ISSUE 25 UK £7.99 www.sewnowmag.co.uk

Must-have tie blouse

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WELCOME

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Hello As we head towards autumn it’s time to make your pattern wish list and I’m sure simple basics will feature prominently. This month’s patterns, although straightforward in style, are blank canvasses for print, pattern and texture to make them truly yours!

New and exclusive to Sew Now, the Simple Sew Miranda T-shirt (page 20) is a definite go-to pattern; take your pick from round or V neck and long or short sleeves or choose an eye-catching patterned fabric as we have to make it stand out from the crowd! The Kwik Sew 3704 (page 10) is everything you need in a dress, with its flattering darted shape and two neckline options and, if you’re planning even further ahead, opt for a sumptuous fabric and it will make a perfect party dress for the festive season.

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At this time of year, rich, warm tones always enjoy a surge in popularity and we’ve taken this as our inspiration for the Exposed-zip Skirt (page 28), super-cute Retro Skirt (page 46) and the stunning Geometric Purse (page 42).

This issue is also packed with new fabric ideas, fresh news and inspiration along with lots of advice to help improve your skills and start the new sewing season with a bang.

Happy sewing!

Sam

Editor sam.sterken@practicalpublishing.co.uk

Share your thoughts We’d love to hear your thoughts about Sew Now. Find and follow us on: www.facebook.com/sewnowmag

www.instagram.com/sewnowmag

www.twitter.com/sewnowmag

www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag

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Inside this issue of

46

50

52 FREE

REGULARS

6 52

NEWS What’s new in sewing

Mini prym steam iron

DISCOUNTS AND GIVEAWAYS Sewing goodies and exclusive discounts just for you!

61 64 66

SEWING WORKSHOPS Learn new skills and make new friends BEHIND THE SEAMS Our handy guide to seam finishes

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MIRANDA T-SHIRT Our top styling tips for a season-spanning T-shirt

TUTORIALS

33

PROJECTS

4

20 28

16

www.facebook.com/sewnowmag

Turn to page 24 for details

5 MINUTES WITH… We talk pretty patterns and design inspiration with Ana of CocoWawa Crafts EASY BUST ADJUSTMENTS Wendy Gardiner’s expert advice to help you create the perfect fit

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when you subscribe

10

DRESS TO IMPRESS Our top tips for creating your exclusive Kwik Sew dress

www.twitter.com/sewnowmag

EXPOSED ZIP TWEED SKIRT Expand your skills and create the perfect on-trend skirt

BE BEAUTIFUL Kit yourself out with these stylish beauty essentials

42 46

GEOMETRIC PURSE A classy and quick-to-make clasp purse GIRL’S RETRO FLOWER SKIRT Use appliqué to create a retro flower skirt

www.instagram.com/sewnowmag

www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag

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CONTENTS

MEET THE TEAM:

Editor

50

UNICORN LAVENDER WALL HANGING Keep your home smelling sweet with this adorable wall hanging

Sam

54

LITTLE BIRDIE TIE-NECK BLOUSE Use bias tape to create this super-stylish top

Editorial Assistant

62

MӒRKBAR NOTEBOOK COVER Make a unique book cover using free-machine embroidery

INSPIRATION

Lorna

15

ALL DRESSED UP Our fabric suggestions for your exclusive pattern

Seamstress

19

CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Fabric inspiration from some of our favourite suppliers

22

WEAR IT WITH Fashion inspiration to help you style your exclusive pattern

Jeanette

Photographer

26

CRAFTING FOR A GOOD CAUSE We find out more about how crafting can instigate social change

31 40

THAT’S A WRAP Save 20% on jersey at Minerva Crafts!

Renata

SOMETHING FINE We speak to Vicky Grubb, author of The Beginner's Guide to Upholstery

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PLAYFUL PRINTS Save 20% at Sew Hot and stock up on some lovely new fabric

59

FALLING FOR YOU Celebrate autumn with these vibrant seasonal items

Exclusive prizes!

52 Your chance to win lovely sewing goodies including a premium membership to the Corset Academy and a stylish trouser pattern from The Avid Seamstress!

20

SKILL LEVEL GUIDE Beginner Adventurous beginner Intermediate Advanced

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What’s new?

The patterns, events and sewing goodies on our radar this month

Pattern picks ROLL UP ROLL UP! Felix Dress by Grainline Studio With its flowy and flattering design, the Felix dress will whirl you into autumn with style.

The new addition from Grainline Studio would look great made up in lightweight fabric such as cotton voile or batiste to complement the design but as it’s also fully lined, a heavier fabric would make this ideal for layering up during the colder months. The PDF pattern has three style options with alternative skirt and sleeve lengths and is available in US sizes 0 to 18 (UK sizes 4 to 22). The pattern is $16 (approximately £12) from www.grainlinestudio.com

Atelier Brunette has launched its own range of bias binding to match every fabric in the collection! Say au revoir to mismatched finishes and achieve professional-looking garments with this 100% cotton tape. Each one is sold by the metre and priced at €2 (approximately £1.80) from www.atelierbrunette.com

City Trousers by The Avid Seamstress Revamp your wardrobe with these chic City Trousers from The Avid Seamstress.

Medium-weight fabric that has a slight stretch works a treat with this pattern and will guarantee a comfy but stylish fit. The City Trousers include a narrow waistband and an invisible zip at the back as well as insert side pockets and optional side slits at the hem. The pattern is £16.50 and available in UK sizes 6-22. See www. theavidseamstress.co.uk for more details.

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You name it!

Add some personalisation to your home-sewn creations with these 100% cotton appliqué letters from www.notonthehighstreet. com. Each letter has iron-on backing, making it easy to transfer to garments and accessories. Children will love the vibrant designs for labelling school bags or uniforms. You can purchase letters individually or in larger quantities and prices start from £1.40.

NEWS

Readers’ makes £25 WIN A

VOUCHER FROM

We love to see what you’ve been working on. Each month’s star maker will receive a voucher from Mark at Girl Charlee Ruth

ALL WRAPPED UP

Ever bought a new pattern only to realise you’re missing those essential haberdashery items or don’t have enough fabric to complete your make? We hear you. Thankfully, Sew Hayley Jane has created the perfect ‘sewlution.’ Her monthly subscription boxes contain everything you need to make beautiful items for yourself and your home. Choose a classic, mini or luxury box depending on what you like sewing and your skill level, and discover new patterns, fabric, notions and of course new skills!

With no long-term contract, you can start and stop at any time.

Find out more at www.sewhayleyjane.com

STAR MAKE

Ruth looks lovely in her version of the McCall’s 7721 from issue 23. She made view A with fabric from John Lewis.

Great job, Ruth!

Fabric swoon

If you’re familiar with the elegant designs of Lady McElroy fabric you will love the new collection of prints that have recently arrived at Bobbins and Buttons. These fabulous designs are printed on different base cloths including fine cotton lawn, texture lightweight jersey, viscose jersey and scuba. To see the full collection of Lady McElroy fabric stocked by Bobbins and Buttons, visit www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

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SIT BACK, RELAX AND STITCH! Laura Every month, Laura Victoria shares what’s been going on with the #SewMyStyle project I love it when you get a pattern that has lots of different variations; sometimes you can learn something new, and once you have perfected the basic fit of one version the rest are easier. The Halifax Hoodie from Hey June is this month’s pattern for #sewmystyle2018 and I was surprised at how many options just this one pattern gives. From this basic hoodie pattern, you can add in zips, swap out to a funnel neck or experiment with high-low hems and twisted side seams…. that’s a lot of playing before we’ve even considered fabric.

Laura in her Halifax Hoodie

For me though, even with all those variations, all I really wanted was the plainest hoodie I could make. I wanted a low fuss, super-quick kind of sew to relax with so I stripped back a lot of features. I even made mine without a kangaroo pocket or drawstrings (though it’s nice to know that when I come to make another one I do have all of those in the pattern).

It really was fast – only an afternoon and hardly any head scratching required either! I was also thrilled that by opting for a French terry instead of my usual sweater knit, I have something warm but not too bulky – perfect for transitional weather and travelling. Now that I know how quickly this goes together, and having seen everyone else’s on the reveal day, I really want to take advantage of all those pattern variations!

Next month’s pattern is the Fringe Dress by Chalk and Notch – I have been waiting all year for this! You can also follow along with me at www.thepetitepassions.com for fabric and design ideas. It’s not too late if you want to get discounts emailed to you for the rest of the year’s patterns; just sign up at www.jessicalorraine.com

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We all know the difficulty of squeezing in some relaxing sewing time and a retreat can be the perfect solution for some uninterrupted crafting. The Crewel Embroidery and Redwork Retreat in Windsor is the perfect opportunity to meet like-minded stitchers and learn some new skills within the beautiful grounds of the Beaumont Estate. Guests can choose from three retreat packages each including informative workshops on Crewelwork and Redwork with stitcher extraordinaire, Deborah Wilding. The retreat takes place at the Beaumont Estate, Old Windsor, Berkshire from 19th – 21st October 2018. To find out more, visit www.sewandso.co.uk

Loved to pieces

We’re planning our autumn makes around this stunning collection of prints by Mathew Boudreaux for AGF. Loved to Pieces cleverly blends florals with modern geometric shapes against a backdrop of vibrant blues, greens and pinks. Head to www.thecraftymastermind.co.uk to stock up on this fabulous fabric.

NEWS

Patches and Buttons This month, Sew Now speaks to Fiona to find out more about her fabulous fabric and haberdashery shop Patches and Buttons Hi Fiona! What are you up to at the shop today?

Today is window display day, this is always a fun day for us in the shop as we like to get creative.

Sometimes we just want to show off the beautiful new fabric lines we have and work on a complementary dual colour scheme, but often we pick a theme and dress the window to suit.

Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop I have often described myself as an accidental haberdasher.

Back in the day I was a secondary school teacher, but I left the profession to become a full-time mum. In 2008 I was looking for a new challenge, which in October 2009 turned out to be Patches and Buttons and I haven’t looked back. We started selling good quality haberdasher and sewing supplies, some Fairtrade gifts and a small range of fleece fabric.

We have gone from strength to strength and now stock fabric for dressmaking, patchwork and crafts… all this is complemented by our eBay shop.

Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist?

I learnt to sew on my grandma’s

ON SALE NOW!

From left to right: Jessamy Britcliffe, Poppy Belcham, Fiona Belcham (owner) and Lexie Macdowall

old black and gold Singer, straight stitch only, and this machine still holds a special place in my heart.

I still have her and she regularly features in our window displays.

But for serious sewing it will always be a Bernina, I still have my trusty 1008 special that I purchased in 1993. My machine of choice for advanced dressmakers is the B580 with the add-on embroidery package – it's not for those on a budget but a dream machine.

As for the beginner, I have taught many a young lady on the 1008, 1010 and 1015 – the 1000 range is amazing, you just can’t break them, treat them well, get them regularly serviced and you are away.

IN OUR GOOD BOOKS

Fat Quarter: OnePiece Projects

by Tina Barrett, Put those small pieces of fabric to good use with this innovative project book by Tina Barrett. Fat Quarter: One-Piece Projects (GMC, £12.99) will help inspire you with 25 pretty projects ranging from bedside lampshades to magazine holders. Each project includes step-by-step instructions alongside beautiful photography and a tools and techniques section to really help you stretch your skills and make useful items for your home. To find out more, visit www.gmcbooks.com

The Spoonflower Quick-sew Project Book: 34 DIYs to make the most of your fabric stash

by Anda Corrie Devour your fabric ON SALE stash with The OCTOBER! Spoonflower Quicksew Project Book (Abrams Books, $27.50 (approximately £21)). With simple step-by-step instructions, templates and pattern pieces you can whip up a variety of makes including a tote bag and a children’s tent, and each project can be completed in an afternoon! With projects for beginner and more experienced sewists, this is a great book for your sewing room. To find out more, visit www.abramsbooks.com

SHOP OF THE MONTH Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about?

We are planning lots of promotions in our anniversary month of October – fabric sales, discounted books and sewing boxes, bead giveaways – and we hope to have our new range of fabric gift wrap available for sale. You can keep up to date with announcements on our Facebook page.

Patches & Buttons 25 Moor Lane, Clitheroe, Lancashire, England BB7 1BE Tel: 01200 423089 patchesandbuttons@live.co.uk www.patchesandbuttons.co.uk

ON SALE NOW!

A Beginner’s Guide to Dyeing and Sewing by Clémentine Lubin Discover the creative versatility of fabric dyeing with this new book from Clémentine Lubin. A Beginner’s Guide to Dyeing and Sewing (Search Press, £12.99) will help you upcycle and personalise your clothing, soft furnishings and fabric accessories with 21 beautiful sewing projects and 12 different dying techniques. If you’re a beginner, don’t worry, each project includes clear and simple instructions with illustrations to guide you. To find out more, visit www.searchpress.com

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YOUR

FAB PATTERN

Dress to

IMPRESS Go for a perfect fit with your Kwik Sew 3704 2-in-1 dress with figure-flattering darts, boat and cowl neck options and two sleeve lengths Photography RENATA STONYTE Model CALLA for BOSS Hair and make-up RACHEL OWENS for CREATIVES

Get the look

Make in medium-weight cotton for autumn, then upgrade to a more luxurious fabric for winter

Atelier Brunette Terrazzo Night cotton gauze

This soft cotton gauze is ideal for dressmaking and is available in two beautiful versions: Terrazzo Shell and Terrazzo Night £16.50 per metre

www.lamazifabrics.com

Calla is 5’ 7” and a size 8

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Jelico shiny cork wedges £49.99, www.houseoffraser.co.uk

Dart CLASS

Once you’ve mastered the humble dart, the sewing world is your oyster.

Your Kwik Sew 3704 pattern has bust, waist and elbow darts to shape and fit your dress perfectly. Use our tips to get them just right

l START AT THE TOP

Single darts, such as bust darts, will have a point and two ‘legs’ that meet the edge of the pattern.

Accurately mark the points by cutting notches outwards from the fabric edge or transferring the lines using tailor’s chalk or carbon paper and a tailor’s wheel. Check out Made To Sew’s instructive blog post for tips on the latter. www.madetosew.com/how-to-sewing-darts

Tie the knot

Elbow dart on Kwik Sew 3704

l KNOW YOUR DARTS

After following the ‘must backstitch’ mantra every time you sew, darts follow the opposite rule. Back-stitching at the dart point can cause puckering, so to avoid this tie the two loose ends into a knot, 5mm away from the point and snip away the excess. Creating space between the point and knot reduces the chance of puckering during washing.

Bust dart – makes the bust form fitting with point sitting at the apex of the bust Double front dart – most commonly seen on dresses to make the garment fit correctly French dart – lower than a bust dart Elbow dart – a tailoring technique found in dresses and jackets, allowing room to move Shoulder dart – a method of taking bulk or boxy shaping out of tops, dresses and jackets

Use a tailor's ham for perfect pressing

l HAM IT UP

Use carbon paper and a tailor’s wheel for accuracy

The icing on the cake when finishing your darts is to steam or press them over a tailor’s ham (a tightly padded cushion with gentle curves). The cushion shape help encourages the dart into shape, an effect you can’t achieve on a flat ironing board!

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Get started

SEWING WITH LACE Preparation is key to sewing with lace so here are our top tips to help you get started

Preparation Use a machine needle size 60-75 (9-11) sharps or universal and stitch length of 1.8 – 2mm for seams.

Use new fine pins as well as needles as both can easily snag delicate fabrics if blunt. (Glass-headed or flower-head pins are great as they are more easily seen on lace fabric.)

Cut out with good-quality dressmaking shears that have the tiny serrated edges – these grip the fabric as you cut.

Why not try?

Maroon Daisy embroidered cotton lace 112cm £9.95 per metre

www.abakhan.co.uk

Think ahead to the festive season and try your K3704 pattern in lace

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All

DRESSED UP Our top fabric picks for your exclusive Kwik Sew pattern

Art Gallery Fabrics Tropical Breeze cotton voile by Sharon Holland £13 per metre, www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

Atelier Brunette X Mini Labo Garance fabric €18 (approximately £16.23) per metre, www.atelierbrunette.com

Embroidered Circles Border cotton £3.99 per metre, www.minervacrafts.com

Art Gallery Fabrics Wind Observer Fog rayon £17.98 per metre, www.lamazifabrics.com

Black magnolia jersey £10 per metre, www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Mustard Powder cotton £12 per metre, www.sewoverit.co.uk

Coral flamingo-print lightweight polyester bubble crepe £14 per metre, www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

Lady McElroy Campari Polka Sorbet viscose crepe £12.98 per metre, www.materialgirllaura.co.uk

Kwik Sew 3704

Achieve the perfect fit with your Kwik Sew 3704

Wendy

EASY BUST

ADJUSTMENTS

Sew garments that fit like a dream with this expanded tutorial on full bust adjustment from Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company 16

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TECHNIQUE SKILL LEVEL:

ADJUSTMENTS

SIZE WISE Commercial patterns are designed to fit a B cup size, and as many of us are now C cup or over, to get a good fit through the bust, chest and back frequently require some alterations to the pattern tissue before you cut into your fabric. The first step is to check which size you should be working with because for those over a C cup, you choose your dress, jacket and top size by your high bust measurement and then make adjustments.

IF YOUR APEX IS LOWER THAN THE PATTERN Draw a line across the bodice just below the armhole, at right angles to the centre front (A), slash along the line and spread the tissue apart by the required amount. Add extra tissue and tape in place. Redraw the centre front and side edges (B). Doing this does extend the front length, so to return it to the original length, draw two parallel lines an equal distant apart (the same as the extra you have just added), just above the waistline. Fold the bottom line to the top and tape in place (C).

ACCURATE MEASUREMENTS To find out whether to choose from bust or high bust/chest size, first take your full bust measurement – around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. Then take your high bust/chest measurement – above the bust and under arms at the front, straight across the back.

If there is a difference greater than 6.5cm (2½”), you should choose your pattern by your high bust/chest measurement and then make the adjustments noted below.

This will help ensure the pattern fits better across your shoulders, chest and back.

Before making adjustments for a fuller bust, check the finished garment measurements (printed on the tissue pieces or pattern envelope). If they are over 5cm larger than your bust, you may not need to do a full bust adjustment.

Tissue-fit by pinning the pattern pieces together and trying on, or make a calico test bodice.

BUST POINT Having chosen the right size to work with, the next step is to check the markings on the pattern to check that the bust apex point is in the right place for you. This is particularly important on dresses with princess seams where the curve of the seam needs to fit around your curves accurately.

If your clothes wrinkle above or below the bust, you will need to alter the pattern. Most commercial patterns have the bust point marked on the tissue by a large circle with a cross inside. Hold the pattern piece against your body, with the shoulder seam in line with your shoulder and centre front at centre front of your body. The bust point marking should fall at the apex (point) of your bust, if not you will need to make an adjustment.

A

B

B

C

B

B

C

C

E

IF YOUR APEX IS HIGHER THAN THE PATTERN Draw two parallel lines, at right angles to the centre front, just below the armhole, across the bodice an equal distance apart to the amount the bust point needs to be raised (D). Fold the bottom line up to the top line and tape. Redraw the centre front and the side edge (E).

Again, this adjustment means you have shortened the garment so to adjust it back to the original length draw a line across the bodice at right angles to the centre front, slash on the line and spread apart the pieces by the same amount you just folded out. Tape in place and redraw centre front and side edge (F).

D

E

E

E

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FULLER BUST For C cup and more, you may need to make a full bust adjustment. But first check the finished garment measurements. On loose-fitting garments, this adjustment is only necessary if your body measurement is less than 5cm difference to the finished garment measurements.

MAKING ADJUSTMENTS Draw a straight line across the bodice through the bust point marking, at right angles to the centre front. Draw a second straight line from the curved portion of the armhole to the bust point and from this point continue a straight line down to the lower edge, parallel to the centre front (G). Slash along these lines, keeping a pivot point at the armhole, and then spread the pieces out to the required amount (see below). Add tissue and tape.

Reshape the darts (H).

PATTERNS WITHOUT BUST DARTS Measure up from the waist 15cm along the side edge and mark with a dot. Draw a straight line from this mark to the bust point/apex on the tissue. Again draw a straight line from the curved portion of the armhole to the apex and then from there down to the lower edge as before (I).

Slash and spread the tissue by the required

18

You can do a bust adjustment on a pattern without bust darts! Just follow our guide

amount and add extra tissue and tape in place. Now to close up the side opening created, draw a dart equal to the width of the side opening with the tip of the dart 2.5cm (1”) from the bust point. Lengthen the centre front to match the side length and redraw the lower edge (J).

DETERMINING THE AMOUNT TO ADD Having taken high bust and bust measurements, deduct bust from high bust. Then deduct 6.5cm (2½”), which is already allowed for in the pattern.

Halve the remaining figure to determine how much extra room is needed. For example if your bust is 91cm (36”) and your high bust is 101cm (40”), the difference is 10cm (4”). Deduct 6.5cm (2½”), which leaves 3.5cm (1½”). Half of this is 1.75cm (¾”) thus the tissue needs to be spread by 1.75cm (¾”).

G

H

H

H

I

J

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SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT If your cup size is smaller than a B cup, you may need to make a small bust adjustment. Folds will appear in garments over the bust if there is excess fullness that needs to be removed.

Check/correct the bust point/apex as noted previously and then take high bust and full bust measurements. If you have less than 6.5cm (2½”) between the measurements, you may need to make an adjustment.

MAKING ADJUSTMENTS Mark a dot at the apex and draw a straight line across the bodice, through the dot and at right angles to the centre front. Draw a straight line from the curved area of the armhole to the dot and then straight down to the lower edge, parallel to the centre front (K).

Cut along these lines. Overlap the cut edges to the required amount and tape.

Reshape the darts as needed (L).

K

L

INSPIRATION

Cherry-picked Stock up on lovely new fabric with these invaluable recommendations from some of our favourite fabric suppliers SEW SCRUMPTIOUS FABRICS

Louise

Sew Scrumptious Fabrics sells a huge range of quirky contemporary cotton fabric perfect for the modern maker.

The team loves all things sewing related – check out the website for free tutorials and pattern downloads. www.sewscrumptious.co.uk

BOBBINS AND BUTTONS

Julia

Bobbins and Buttons offers a carefully selected range of the best quality fabric.

The collection includes a large range of plain, stripe and patterned jersey fabric, wardrobe essentials like linen and needlecord, and a great selection from designer brands. www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

Dashwood Studio Purple Pomegranate cord This gorgeous, vibrant soft pin cord fabric is suitable for making clothes for both children and adults, and perfect for autumn! £16 per metre

Art Gallery Fabrics Acqua Di Rose Boho Jersey Art Gallery Fabrics jersey is super soft with a great stretch.

It is an ideal weight for tops, dresses and leggings and the elastane content makes it a good choice for fitted styles. £22 per metre

Michael Miller Candy Shop Cotton This incredibly cute 100% cotton cool retro 1950s-style fabric from Michael Miller is a bestseller! £12.80 per metre

Lady McElroy Artisan Splash cotton lawn Lady McElroy never fails to delight with its wonderful designs. Cotton lawn is a crisp yet soft versatile fabric perfect for all sorts of styles. £16 per metre

Robert Kaufman Daydreamer Rainbows cotton A lovely 100% cotton fabric from Robert Kaufman featuring a cheerful vibrant design that is perfect for dressmaking, quilting or general crafting. £12.80 per metre

Transparent raindrop-print shower-proof fabric This unusual fabric printed with a large raindrop design is super soft and would make a fun raincoat for yourself or a little one! £17.50 per metre

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20% OFF

VIEW B

JERSEY FABRIC AT MINERVA CRAFTS See page 31 for details

YOUR

FAB PATTERN

Miranda

T-SHIRT A T-shirt is a wardrobe staple and the Simple Sew Miranda is a great beginner garment, offering two sleeve lengths and two popular neckline choices Photography RENATA STONYTE Model CALLA for BOSS Hair and make-up RACHEL OWENS for CREATIVES

Orange Fizz mid-rise super skinny jeans £19.50, www.marksand spencer.com

Get the look

Floral ITY jersey knit

This medium-weight fabric is a beautiful quality stretch jersey knit which is soft and drapey. It stretches in all directions with a good amount of elasticity £4.99 per metre

www.minervacrafts.com

Calla is 5’7” and a size 8

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Rose leather block heels £49.50, www.marksandspencer.com

Time

FOR T!

blogger

HACK

Understanding the finer points of jersey fabric will give you a head start on this month’s brilliant basic pattern!

Cotton rib

Ideal for fitted garments, cotton rib is made up of rows of vertical raised then lowered stripes, which allows the fabric to contract without distorting.

Light to medium weight is ideal for T-shirts and medium weight and above works well for cuffs, Deep coral cotton spandex rib knit, necklines and collars. £5.95 per metre www.girlcharlee.co.uk

Buying online

Touch, feel and recovery are important when sewing with jersey. Most online suppliers will list the weight of the jersey in GSM (grams per square metre) to help you get an idea of the weight. Keeping a notebook with a swatch of fabric you’ve used and the corresponding weight is really useful for future reference. Take a look at the weights below to help you when shopping online. l Lightweight = 30-150GSM l Mediumweight = 150-350GSM l Heavyweight = 350GSM+

Cotton spandex and jersey

Spandex is a magic fibre that helps to create excellent stretch and a great recovery - the fabric will bounce back once stretched. Slightly heavier than regular cotton jersey, this fabric often minimal fraying so the edges don’t need finishing, saving you time!

What’s ITY?

Art Gallery Fabrics Mist Flora Luminous stretch jersey knit dress fabric, £22.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

ITY stands for Interlock Twist Yarn and is a type of knitted fabric that offers great elasticity and a soft feel that can be likened to swimwear. It works well for patterns that need fit and could even be used for sportswear and leggings, although you should always check a sample first for transparency.

Keen to get her hands on the Miranda T-shirt, blogger Corrine of Appleby Makes took herself out of her round-neck comfort zone to make her first V-neck T-shirt. Read her tips on reducing length, matching stripes, stabilising shoulders and sewing a V-neckline at www.simplesewblog.com/appleby-makes-mirandat-shirt. We think you’ll agree she’s done a fantastic job.

Steal Corrine’s style This beautiful chambray has a white yarn in the weft and a blue in the warp and is woven in a twill construction

Turquoise & black stripe viscose jersey cotton chambray, £7.99 per metre www.doughtysonline.co.uk

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Wear it with...

Bag, £65

Complement your free pattern with finds from some of our favorite high-street stores

Bag, £18

Blazer, £38

Earrings, £14

OLIVER BONAS www.oliverbonas.com

DOROTHY PERKINS www.dorothyperkins.com

Trousers, £20

Shoes, £27

Culottes, £59.50 Bangle, £32

Necklace, £12.50

Earrings, £8

WALLIS www.wallis.co.uk

RIVER ISLAND www.riverisland.com

Bag, £24 Blazer, £60

Jeans, £35

Shoes, £22

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Shoes, £38

Trousers, £46

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CRAFTING

for a good cause!

This month we’re looking at the power of craft as social change by focusing on Craftivism, The Pussyhat Project and the Craftivist Collective

In late 2016 the Pussyhat Project took the world by storm by making a very clear and pink statement for women’s rights. In anticipation and commemoration of the Women’s March on Washington, a sea of pink hats created a unique visual statement and a collaborative project for crafters.

WHY PINK HATS? The Pussyhat Project began in November 2016 with two mission statements; to provide the people of the Women’s March a way to make a collective visual statement, and to enable those who couldn’t attend the main march (in Washington D.C. USA) a means to get involved. The challenge involved making a pink hat with cat’s ears through sewing, crocheting or knitting, and either wearing this at a march yourself or sending it on with a sense of permanence that yarn for someone to wear in your place. bombing doesn’t have. After all, you can wear a hat over and over, but once it rains Underlying this project is the idea that your yarn bomb is gone. in the process of making pussyhats, participants would be connecting with each other, laying the groundwork for Even though the marches are future political activism. The Pussyhat Project is about creating a platform for over for now, you can visit people to support women’s rights and www.pussyhatproject.com each other.

The project is a classic example of craftivism. Yarn bombing is the most traditional form but hats open this medium to a wider range of audiences, 26

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to get involved, or go to www.knitnowmag.co.uk to find an exclusive Knit Now Pussyhat pattern!

Chris French is pictured here in his knitted hat, along with the first female governor of the state of Vermont, USA, Madeleine Kunin (1985-1991). At 83, Madeleine was one of the speakers at a march of almost 20,000 people – outside a town called Montpelier, Vermont, whose population is just 8,000.

FEATURE

Sarah Corbett is the author of How To Be A Craftivist: The Art of Gentle Protest, published October 2017, and she’s the voice behind www.craftivist-collective.com She is an advocate for careful, courageous, considered and compassionate Craftivism...

MEET THE CRAFTIVIST COLLECTIVE I discovered the term Craftivist in 2008 but couldn't find any groups I could join or projects to take part in. My focus is a form of Craftivism that questions structures and systems of injustice and campaigning to eradicate them. I set up the collective for people around the world to join in our projects and community and do Craftivism in our ‘gentle protest’ way. I was keen for the

collective to be a safe space for shy or introverted people, people new to activism or even burnt-out activists.

What links JK Rowling, Eleanor Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln?

I created five Stitchable Changemakers kits – Abraham Lincoln, Eleanor Roosevelt, Malala Yousafzai, JK Rowling and Desmond Tutu. They are the easiest and quickest Craftivism project to do (roughly 30 minutes) and you pick one that you feel you relate to the

Order an ethical Craftivism kit and find advice for setting up your own Craftivism group at www.craftivist-collective.com You can buy Sarah’s book at www.unbound.co.uk/books/craftivist most. Whilst stitching the portrait of your chosen changemaker dot-to-dot you reflect on the values threaded through their activism, how they used their situation, skills and circle of include to change systems and structures of harm.

Betsy Greer is the voice of www.craftivism.com and the author of Craftivism: The Art of Craft and Activism, sharing how 33 distinct voices interpret the idea of Craftivism. Betsy explains in her own words why she is an advocate for this powerful creative movement and shares her new project...

DEFINING CRAFTIVISM Craftivism means harnessing the power of craft to make the world a better place.

Different people/groups have different approaches, but that’s mine. I started writing about it after realising no one else was writing about the connection between the two in 2003. Luckily, crafts were beginning to have a major resurgence in the US, so my timing was fortunate. When I moved to London later that year, craft was also becoming more popular for people under 40, so the timing was right there too! Craft has

allowed me to channel my life in a positive direction. It was literally life saving for me.

My newest project, You Are So Very Beautiful, involves creating handmade affirmations and then leaving them for people to find. I think about what I need to hear, what my loved ones need to hear, what young girls everywhere need to hear. By stitching the affirmations, you are forced to stare at them, shape them, think about them. People who have stitched signs have remarked how

Follow Betsy on Twitter @craftivista and visit www.craftivism.com to hear more about Craftivism and the YASVB project and find out how to make your own affirmation signs good it made them feel, which was great to hear! People who have found the signs have reacted warmly to them, some remarking how they were like finding messages from the universe.

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Use your template download

Exposed-zip

TWEED SKIRT This is not just a simple A-line skirt – you’ll boost your skills with exposed zip pockets. These instructions will help you to set these zips perfectly every time!

Project MARILLA WALKER www.marillawalker.com Photography RENATA STONYTE

Marilla

STYLE

A

B

C

F

E

G

H

HOW TO MAKE: Finish all the edges of the pocket pieces (lining fabric and main fabric) with a zigzag or overlock stitch.

SKILL LEVEL:

1

MATERIALS: •• 1-1.25m 150cm-wide fabric (Refer to cutting layout for exact length.

Suiting wool, cotton chambray, linen or mediumweight fabric are all suitable) •• scrap of shirting-weight cotton for a pair of pocket linings in a colour that coordinates with main fabric •• two 15cm metal zips for the front pockets (general weight not chunky) •• 18cm metal zip for the back fastening (general weight not chunky) •• approximately 0.25cm fusible interfacing for waistband •• templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

through the stitch line. (See Pic B.) Pull the lining back through the hole to the WS of the skirt front and press. (See Pic C.)

2

6

3

7

On the WS of the pocket lining mark the pocket opening in chalk by connecting the tailor’s tacks together.

(See Pic A.)

Lay the pocket lining on top of the skirt front with RST and align the tailor’s tacks. Pin in place and sew using the chalk line as your stitching guide, making sure to back-tack at the beginning and end of the box.

Remove the tailor’s tacks.

4

Turn the pocket the right way out and use a chopstick or similar object to gently push out the corners.

NOTES: Snip 0.5cm into the edge of the centre front folds on the skirt front and front waistband pieces to make sewing the seams easier Sew tailor’s tacks or use a water-soluble marker to mark the pocket openings on the skirt front and pocket lining fabric, as well as the bottom of the zip on the skirt back.

Seam allowance is 1.5cm throughout

D

5

Cut the rectangle box straight down the centre stopping approximately 1cm away from each end and then diagonally towards each corner snipping close to, but not

With the RS of the skirt facing you, place the zip underneath centrally in the opening. Pin then tack in place.

Machine top-stitch the zip approximately 2mm away from the opening edge. (See Pic D.) Pin the corresponding pocket you cut from main fabric RST with the lining (we used a contrasting wool for a fun twist). Sew around the pocket bag, but leave the long straight edge open. Use a 1cm seam allowance for this instead of the instructed 1.5cm so that you can sew over the ends of the zip tape.

8

On the RS pin the skirt front to the unsewn long straight edge of the pocket bag, ensuring to catch all the layers. Sew on top of the outermost topstitch line to close the pocket bag and secure it to the front. (See Pic E.)

Sizing (cm):

10

12

14

16

18

20

22

24

Waist

64cm

69cm

74cm

79cm

84cm

89cm

94cm

99cm

Waist

25”

27”

29”

31”

33”

35”

37”

39”

Hips

88cm

93cm

98cm

103cm

108cm

113cm

118cm

123cm

Hips

35”

37”

39”

41”

43”

44”

46”

48”

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If you are using a scratchy fabric, cut the inner waistband in a softer lining fabric

The curved waistband gives a flattering fit

Sam

9

With RST, sew the two skirt backs together up the centre back from the hem to the tailor’s tack that marks the bottom of the zip. With RST sew the skirt front to the assembled back at the side seams. Press the seams open and finish the raw edges with either a zigzag stitch or overlock stitch.

10

Fuse interfacing to the WS of the front and back outer waistband pieces. With RST sew together at the side seams. The non-interfaced pieces will make up the inner waistband and should be joined at the side seams, just like the outer waistband.

and remove the pins before top-stitching on the RS approximately 0.5cm away from pressed centre back edge. Remove basting stitches and give it a light press. (See Pic G.)

14

edge with a zigzag or overlock stitch. You can then hand catch-stitch or machine top-stitch your hem as desired. For a fancier finish keep reading!

18

With RST pin the inner waistband Machine top-stitch a narrow lace to the outer waistband along the trim to the hem edge with a little bit of lace overlapping the raw edge.

Sew a line gathering stitches roughly upper edge and sew together. Ensure the 4mm long and approximately 0.75cm waistband meets neatly at the top of the zip. Hand catch-stitch the lace to the skirt for a pretty finish which covers any raw away from the fabric edge between the Trim the inner waistband seam edges. (See Pic H.) gathering notches. If you haven’t already allowance to reduce bulk and notch marked the centre front of the skirt front the curved edge. Under-stitch the top and outer waistband do this now! Pin the waistband seam to the inner waistband. skirt to the interfaced waistband with Understitching is a line of topstitching RST matching up the centre fronts and gathering notches. Gather the skirt front to approximately 2mm away from the seam match the waistband, pin to secure and sew line that secures the two layers of seam allowance to the facing. in place. (See Pic F.)

11

15

Get the look

12

16

Press the inner waistband to the inside of the skirt, fold up the lower raw edge of the inner waistband to match the skirt seam. Fold short ends under so they are clear of zip teeth. Top-stitch from the RS approximately 0.5cm away from the upper edge of the waistband. Hand-sew the short ends of the waistband to the zip and Pin the zip to one half of the opening ensuring that the top zip stop is 1.5cm sew on a hook and eye to prevent the zip away from the waistband's top raw edge. The from riding down unexpectedly! left side should cover half the zip teeth and The last thing is to sew the hem. when you pin the right side the zip should be Press a 2.5cm hem and finish the completely covered. Hand-baste to secure In preparation for the zip insertion press back the seam allowance of the centre back opening by 1.5cm. The seam that connects the waistband may feel bulky, so snip away some of the waistband seam allowance to reduce this.

13

17

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Blue herringbone cotton-blend wool

This beautiful herringbone wool-blend coating ifabric is the ideal weight for coats, skirts, dresses, tunics and jackets ÂŁ6.45 per half metre

www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

That’s a

wrap!

Boost your collection of stylish garments by taking advantage of this exclusive 20% discount on jersey at Minerva Crafts

Spot-print Ponte Roma stretch jersey knit, £9.99 per metre

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with the code SEWNOW20.

Simply head to www.minervacrafts.com between 13th September and 18th October and stock up on some fabulous new fabric!

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Petite

store Fr stylish cupboard www.storage4crafts.co.uk away Call us free on 0800 048 8606 w ksta Đž in Dunster 2.0 Sewing Edition secĐžds! le s availab oreaway ere Other St s 2.0 shown h e ay Knighth

6Âź

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1/2 in

Choice of finishes

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132cm / 52 in

OAK WHITE

NATURAL OAK

VANILLA

32

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Mainland UK delivery ÂŁ50 extra Optional home assembly service ÂŁ150 extra Order online and use Offer Coupon - QN218DUN Offer expires end of month following magazine publication (eg. Jan Issue expires end of Feb) Please note all furniture items are supplied self assembly unless home assembly service is selected (home assembly available to the majority of mainland UK - Call to check availability)

Be beautiful

co Quic lle k-m ct ake io n

Look your best with our stylish beauty sleep kit and clever drawstring make-up bag Project KATY CAMERON www.the-littlest-thistle.com Photography RENATA STONYTE

Katy

co Quic lle k-m ct ake io n

Drawstring

make-up pouch Ingeniously simple, this make-up pouch lies flat to let you view your favourite products

Use your template download

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• fat quarter quilting cotton for main outer •• fat quarter quilting cotton for lining •• fat quarter quilting cotton for lining pocket/elastic casing •• 1.5m 3-4mm-wide round elastic () •• cord stopper for 4mm elastic/cord •• 6” zip for lining pocket •• template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk CUTTING: From the outer fabric, cut: 1 piece from the circle pouch template To use the template, cut a square 15½” then fold it in half one way, then

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in half again to make a smaller 7¼” square. Line the straight edges of the template up against the folded edges, with the curved side facing the open edges, then cut round the curved side.

From the lining fabric, cut: 1 piece from the circle pouch template From the pocket/casing fabric, cut: 8x12” piece for the pocket 3 1½”-wide strips cut on the bias at 45˚ from the edge along the largest diagonal HOW TO MAKE: Take the zip and tack the open end shut just past the end of the teeth.

1

2

Take the main lining piece and fold it in half, making a crease across the centre. Fold it in half the other way, matching the ends of the previous fold, and make a second crease.

3

Take the pocket piece and fold it in half, matching the long edges, and make a crease. On the wrong sides of the pocket piece, draw a 6” line across the pocket piece measuring 2¾”, 3” and 3¼” up from the short bottom edge of the pocket, ensuring the lines are centred.

Join the ends of the lines together to make a rectangle. (See Pic A.)

4

Place the pocket piece right sides together with the lining piece, aligning the vertical creases and also aligning the

ACCESSORIES

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

3” line on the pocket with the horizontal crease on the lining, as shown. (See Pic B.)

the way around the rectangle 1/8” from the edge. (See Pic E.)

5

8

6

9

Starting in the centre of one long side of the drawn rectangle, sew all the way around the outside, pivoting carefully at each corner. (See Pic C.) Use a pair of sharp, pointed scissors to cut up the centre of the rectangle, stopping a little before each end to cut right out to the corners. Try and snip as close as you can without cutting the stitching (this ensures that there won’t be any puckers on the fabric when turned through). Turn the pocket through the opening and press. (See Pic D.)

7

Take the zip and place it behind the opening, ensuring that the plastic or metal end stop of the zipper is inside the opening (otherwise you might sew over it and break a needle). Either glue, baste or pin the zip in place, and top stitch all

Turn the lining piece over and fold the top edge of the pocket piece down to meet the bottom, then sew around the open edges to make the pocket. (See Pic F.) Take the strips cut on the bias and join them together to create one long strip, pressing the seams open. Trim the strip to 48” long with ends cut at 90˚ to the sides, then fold each end over by ¼”, wrong sides together, press and topstitch in place 1/8” from the edge.

(See Pic G.)

10

Fold the entire bias strip in half wrong sides together, matching the long edges, and press.

11

Starting to one side of the vertical crease on the lining piece from

Step 2, pin the casing in place, right sides together, around the lining piece. Baste in place 1/8” from the edge. (See Pic H.)

12

Take the outer piece and place right sides together with the lining piece. Starting part way round the casing, stitch the two pieces together, leaving a 3” turning gap. Clip the curve all the way around the pouch, then turn right sides out through the turning gap.

(See Pic I.)

13

Carefully tuck the seam allowance from the turning gap inside, press and pin in place, then top-stitch all the way around the pouch 1/8” from the seam with the casing.

14

Using a bodkin or safety pin, thread the elastic cord all the way through the casing. Thread the stopper onto the cord on both sides, then knot the ends of the cord.

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co Quic lle k-m ct ake io n Use the silk chiffon on one side for a real treat for your eyes!

Luxury

eye mask 36

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Use your template download

ACCESSORIES

A

B

C

D

E

F

Use up the scraps from your pillowcase and make an eye mask to help you slumber SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• silk scrap from the pillowcase for the eye side •• fat quarter quilting cotton for outer •• scrap wadding •• 15” 15mm-wide elastic •• template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk CUTTING: From the silk, cut: 1 piece from eye mask template, making sure to transfer markings From the quilting cotton, cut: 1 piece from eye mask template, making sure to transfer markings 2¼x20” piece for elastic casing From the quilt wadding, cut: 2 pieces from eye mask template HOW TO MAKE: Fold the elastic casing in half, matching the long raw edges, with right sides together. Stitch the long edge together, leaving the short ends open. (See Pic A.)

1

2

Turn the casing right sides out, then using a bodkin or safety pin, thread the elastic through the casing.

Note that the casing is longer than the elastic, so keep the casing bunched up, then baste each end to the end of the elastic 1/8” from the edge.

(See pics B and C.)

3

Take the two wadding pieces and the silk piece cut from the eye mask template. Layer them so that the wadding pieces are on the bottom and the silk is on the top, right sides up, and secure together using Wonder clips or similar. Using the markings from the template, line up the ends of the elastic on each side, right sides together with the silk, and baste the elastic in place 1/8” from the edge. (See Pic D.)

4

Place the quilting cotton piece from the eye mask template right sides together with the silk, trapping the elastic between. Sew all the way around, leaving a 2-3” turning gap along the top straight edge. Clip the outer curves and notch the inner curve at the nose.

(See pics E and F.)

5

Turn the eye mask right sides out, tuck in the raw edges from the turning gap and press. Top-stitch around the outside 1/8” from the edge, being careful not to catch the elastic.

(See Pic G.)

G

This eye mask is nice and quick to make and would make a great gift

Katy

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co Quic lle k-m ct ake io n

Beauty sleep

pillowcase As well as being pretty, this patterned silk pillowcase will help you sleep well and wake refreshed with super-soft skin!

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ACCESSORIES

This pillowcase is a great way to practise sewing with silk A

B

C

D

Lorna

SKILL LEVEL:

then press. Baste the sides in place 1/8″ from the edge. (See Pic B.)

MATERIALS •• 1.25m silk

3 4

Repeat Step 1 with the right-hand short edge of the front piece.

NOTES: Seam allowance for all projects is ¼” unless otherwise stated

Place the front and back pieces wrong sides together and stitch together around the raw edges with just under a ¼” seam allowance.

(See Pic C.)

CUTTING: From the silk, cut: 21x31½” piece for the front 21x38” piece for the back HOW TO MAKE: Take the back piece, fold the left-hand short edge over by ½″ and press, then another ½″ and press. Top-stitch 1/8″ from the edge. (See Pic A.)

1

2

Fold over the finished edge by 6½″ so that the wrong sides are together,

5 6

Clip the corners. (See Pic D.)

Turn the pillowcase inside out, carefully poking the corners out, and press. Stitch around the side and end again with a full ¼” seam allowance to enclose the first seam allowance and leave no raw edges.

We used

Silk chiffon spot

£15.95 per metre www.stone fabrics.co.uk

Regent Street Floral Seeds Pink £15 per metre

Everglades Peek Marine

£15 per metre

Turquoise Blue Sevenberry Iridescent

Prussian Blue £8 per metre

£13 per metre

All available from www.fabrichq.co.uk

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Something

FINE

A

Vicky

Vicky Grubb is a one-woman marvel.

We found 15 minutes to chat with her about her booming business Something Fine and why upholstery has become so popular in recent years

s an upholsterer, self-confessed vintage fabric hoarder and mum to two little troublemakers, Vicky Grubb keeps herself busy running the Something Fine Upholstery Studio in Bournemouth, as well as taking on commissions and teaching her one-day and six-week workshops. On top of this, she’s a published author, continues to work on her own furniture creations and writes a blog tracking her own and her students’ progress.

Although upholstery might not seem like your typical sewing endeavour it seems the stitching bug bit Vicky early on.

“When I was 15 I was given a sewing machine for my birthday and whipped up some dodgy-looking box cushion covers in leopard-print fur for an old Ercol sofa my nan had given me. I suppose you could say that was my first upholstery project. I didn't actually start upholstery classes until I was 26 years old, but I had plenty of practice beforehand on old furniture in my mum and dad’s house. My mum was a seamstress and she had fabric in practically every cupboard in the house so there was always lots to choose from.”

The demand for more information on getting started in upholstery resulted in the release of Vicky’s book The Beginner’s Guide to Upholstery. Containing 10 step-bystep projects that are perfect for the complete beginner, the book shares simple techniques to achieve a professional finish. With all the different strings to her bow it seems that Vicky’s dreams have all come true!

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“My studio is exactly how I imagined: packed full of vintage fabric, tools, materials and an industrial sewing machine!”

“To be honest upholstery wasn't something I ever thought about making a career of until one day when I was unhappy in a job and creatively unfulfilled, one of my good friends suggested doing a class. From the very first one, I was hooked.”

Through Vicky’s site you can book classes, buy a starter toolkit and pick up a copy of the wonderful book. If you take a spot on one of her classes you can be guaranteed to learn from the master. "I teach all my own classes. My studio is exactly how I imagined: packed full of vintage fabric, tools, materials and an industrial sewing machine (and a little dust!). I like to keep my classes small, I teach only three or four people at any given time. I mostly teach modern upholstery and tend to get booked up a few months in advance. I just love the diversity of projects and people.”

To sign up to a class, read the blog or pick up a copy of Vicky’s book, visit www.somethingfine.co.uk For a glimpse behind the scenes, check out @something_fine on Twitter and Instagram

The Beginner’s Guide to Upholstery

by Vicky Grubb costs £15.99 and is published by David & Charles

We are suppliers of low cost, high quality materials from all over the world which can be used for a wide range of items such as textile fabrics, curtain linings, designer wear, arts and crafts fabric, and much more.

Rutland Sewing Unit 1a Rutland Village, Ashwell Road, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7QN Tel 01572 756468 www.rutlandsewing.co.uk

Tel: 02476 687776 www.online-fabrics.co.uk

Please visit our NEW online shop!

Fabric Patterns Workshops

Ample free parking Very close to picturesque Rutland Water Coffee shop on site Classes and workshops Also training for sewing machines, Pfaff embroidery machines, Premier Plus Software & all makes of overlockers Open Tuesday to Saturday 9am – 5pm Sunday 10am – 4pm Closed Mondays

www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Geometric

PURSE

Debbie

With a touch of class, and ever so useful, Debbie’s purse is a great weekend make Project DEBBIE VON GRABBLER CROZIER www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

Use your template download

ACCESSORY

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 15cm silver sew-in kiss-clasp purse frame •• 3 fat eighths fabric •• fat quarter lining fabric •• fat quarter H640 Vlieseline fusible wadding •• fat quarter S320 Vlieseline interfacing •• 0.5cm double-sided tape •• Tangerine Perle 5 cotton •• templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

B

C

D

From the poppy fabric, cut: 12x30cm rectangle and attach it to the top edge of the triangle panel (See Pic C.) From the petal turquoise fabric: Use the template to cut a whole back piece. Cut cut the front using the same template NOTES: All seam allowances are 0.5cm unless otherwise stated Read all instructions through and assemble the supplies before beginning HOW TO MAKE: Fuse these completed panels to a piece of interfacing and then to a piece of wadding. These two will give your purse structure, softness and ‘quiltability’.

CUTTING: From the red petal fabric, cut: 2 sash pieces with an angle at each end using the template

1

From the tulip fabric, cut: A triangle using the template. Align the two red pieces so that an inverted triangle shape is suggested and then insert the turquoise triangle into this space (See Pic A.)

2

From the floret fabric, cut: 35x5.5cm strip and attach it to the bottom of the red strip (See Pic B.)

A

Quilt the front and back with a minimalist pattern (found on the template). This accentuates the triangle on the front and echoes it on the back.

(See Pic D.)

hinge mark to hinge mark right around the bottom. Pinch the corners off 3cm and sew across to box the corners. Cut away the excess. (See Pic E.)

4

Turn the purse outer the right way out and use a chopstick or similar object to gently push out the corners.

There is one template piece for this – cut it on folded fabric to achieve two mirrorimage pieces

3

On the template you will find the hinge marks for the frame. Carefully mark them onto the wrong side of one of your panels. Place the front and back right sides together and pin. Sew from

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43

E

5

For the lining, cut two pieces of lining fabric using the whole purse template.

Use scraps to make a little patch pocket.

6

Cut the pocket about 14x11cm (this isn’t an exact measurement, just make sure that you have enough room).

Attach the pocket to a piece of lining approximately 6cm down from the top.

(See Pic F.)

7

Mark the hinges onto the lining the same way as you did for the outer and sew from hinge to hinge around the bottom again, but this time leaving a gap in the base of the lining for turning out.

F

Box the corners of the lining the same as the outer.

8

Turn the lining wrong way out and pull it on over the top of the outer, right sides facing. This time, sew from hinge to hinge around the top edges. Turn it out through the gap left in the lining. Close the gap.

9

To put the purse into the frame, gently manipulate the top edges so that they fit perfectly and sew the purse roughly into the frame using an overcast stitch.

Using Perle cotton, hand-sew the frame in properly using the holes in the frame.

Remove the overcast stitches.

G

To make a patch pocket, simply cut a rectangle of fabric and hem one edge.

This will now become the top. Fold the other three edge under and press. Pin the pocket into place and top-stitch all around, back-stitching at the beginning and the end to reinforce slightly.

Double top stitching looks great too

Debbie

Get the look

Debbie used Poppy Turquoise, Tulip Turquoise, Petal Red, Petal Turquoise and Floret Turquoise fabric from Vignette by Aneela Hoey for Cloud 9 Fabrics www.hantex.co.uk/cloud9 Interfacing is available from www.vlieseline.com

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45

Fiona

Girl’s retro

FLOWER SKIRT With a fun hem ruffle and retro flower appliqué, this gathered elasticated skirt will make a lovely addition to any little girl’s winter wardrobe Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl Photography RENATA STONYTE

Use your template download

KIDS

A

B

C

D

E

Cutting

4-5 years

6-7 years

8-9 years

Sizing

4-5 years

6-7 years

8-9 years

Cut 2 skirt pieces

36x55cm

41x57cm

46x59cm

To fit waist

56cm

56cm

58cm

Cut 2 frill pieces

3x100cm

3x102cm

3x104cm

Finished length

35cm

40cm

50cm

Cut 4 pockets (2 pairs)

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 60x150cm needlecord fabric •• 60cm elastic (2cm width) •• 15cm square cream cotton fabric (flower petals) •• bright orange fabric scraps (flower outer centre) •• pale orange fabric scraps (flower inner centre) •• black sketch-print cotton scraps (leaves) •• 15x25cm bonding web •• black thread •• templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk NOTES: Finish all raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch. All seams are 1cm unless otherwise stated.

side of the bonding web. Iron onto WS of the respective fabric. Trim around the shapes. Remove paper backing. Place shapes in position on front piece 4cm up from lower edge. Iron to fix. (See Pic B.)

3

Using the darning foot, and lowering the feed dogs, machine-stitch around each shape approximately 3mm from the outer edge. (See Pic C.) If you find this tricky, stitch by hand with a small running stitch.

4

Pin the skirt pieces together RST matching the pockets and raw edges.

Sew each side seam and around the pockets with a 1cm seam. Clip the seam allowances at the top and lower corner of pockets. Press side seams open.

5

HOW TO MAKE: Pin one pocket piece RST to each side of both skirt pieces 8cm down from the top edge. Sew a 1cm seam then finish the raw edge along the whole length of each side. (See Pic A.) Press pockets outwards away from skirt piece. Top-stitch on RS close to seam on pocket side.

Join the frill strips at the side seams RST to make a loop. Overlock or zigzag the raw long edges each side. Sew a row of gathering around one edge and pin to the lower edge of the skirt easing the fabric evenly all around and matching side seams. (See Pic D.) Tack-stitch then sew in place on your machine before removing the tacking. Press the seam allowance upwards and top-stitch on RS close to the seamline on skirt side.

2

6

1

Trace off the flower, leaf and inner flower circle templates on to the paper

waist close to the fold to make a channel for the elastic but leave an opening of approximately 3cm near one side seam.

Cut the elastic to fit your child’s waist with a 1cm overlap. Feed the elastic through gap in the channel by attaching the end to a safety pin or bodkin. (See Pic E.) Once fed through, overlap the two ends and sew them together with a zigzag stitch.

Sew the opening closed on your machine to complete.

Finish the top raw edge of the skirt and fold over by 2.5cm. Sew around the

A walking foot can make easy work of corduroy, which is prone to moving about as you sew

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SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY BEVERLEY

BEXLEY HEATH

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will find exactly what you are looking for.

Bernina and Janome stockists

Visit us in store or online to see our range of Dress Fabrics, Patchwork Fabrics from Makower, Moda, Riley Blake and many more, plus knitting yarn and haberdashery.

19 Badminton Road Downend Bristol BS16 6BB

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

CHESHIRE

BRISTOL

Tel. 0117 329 3857 www.fabrics-plus.co.uk info@fabrics-plus.co.uk

CLITHEROE

CUMBRIA

DUMFRIES Romy's Sewing Rooms For all your haberdashery needs.

Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.

180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ

BlueButtonDesigns

JUST SEW Poets Walk, Penrith, Cumbria, CA11 7HJ Tel: 01768 866791 • A real aladdin’s cave of fabric just waiting to be made into something gorgeous!

We stock a wide range of patchwork and dress fabrics as well as haberdashery, patterns and threads. www.justsewpenrith.co.uk

djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

GRIMSBY

HALIFAX

01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms

HAMPSHIRE

Reads of Winchester From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

Come on in and take a look around!

HAMPSHIRE

SEW BUSY

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire GU51 4JS Tel: 01252 444220

www.sew-busy.co.uk 48

WWW.SEWN OWMAG.CO.UK

2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU

Suppliers of sewing machines.

Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

The Fabbadashery Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings.

Craft Workshops Every Week!

Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950

01472 357800

hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574

www.friarystitch.co.uk

10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

HAMPSHIRE

HAMPSHIRE

HARROGATE

14 High Street, Alton, Hampshire, GU34 1BN T: 01420 544033 E: hello@stitchedbyyou.co.uk www.stitchedbyyou.co.uk Stocking fabrics, haberdashery, dressmaking patterns, and kits!

We also offer a sewing machine repair service and hold craft workshops.

Do pop in and say hello!

is an independent fabric shop on the outskirts of the beautiful spa town of Harrogate in North Yorkshire.

We specialise in linens, wools, cotton lawns and silks, we like to use local suppliers where possible and are known for our customer service.

We offer weekly sewing classes for all abilities call or check the new website.

www.finefabricsofharrogate.co.uk finefabricsofharrogate@gmail.com

support your local sewing shop HEREFORD

LINCOLNSHIRE

LONDON

LONDON

Badder Fabrics of Hereford

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

MERSEYSIDE

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'!

Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

NEWPORT

Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

SCOTLAND

01225 482413 27 Charles Street, Bath, BA1 1HU www.sewingstudiobath.com m.pickles1@btintetrnet.com www.facebook.com/ sewingstudiobath/

68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

Offering a warm friendly welcome, supplying quality fabrics for dressmaking and quilting.

Weekly sewing sessions Weekend workshops Elna/Janome stockist Machine servicing and repairs Bespoke commissions undertaken

thesewcialstudio.co.uk

SOMERSET

• Sewing classes • Sewing patterns • Large range of fabrics • Machine sales • Machine service/repairs • Haberdashery

Open 9.00am - 5.30pm Monday to Saturday

80 Watling St, Wilnecote Tamworth, Staffs, B77 5BJ

NORTHALLERTON

Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY

Welcome to my lovely craft emporium!

We have lots of crafty goodies for sale however support, inspiration and the service with a smile are free!

TAMWORTH

15 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, London, SE22 8EW 02035810909 maria@sammur.com www.reallymaria.com

Your NEW one stop sewing shop!

Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.

Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota FULL SERVICE NOW £40 (NORMAL PRICE £60) We have a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts available in store. We specialise in repair and service of machines, with free local pick-up and delivery.

185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755

PRESTON

Extensive range of Fabrics, Wool, Haberdashery, Craft Kits & Workshops.

Including: Liberty, Kaffe Fassett,Micheal Miller, Riley Blake, Fabric Freedom, Rowan, King Cole, Stylecraft

TEWKESBURY

YORKSHIRE

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts.

1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk

Sewing workshops

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE Official Silver Sewing Machine stockist

Full range of accessories, needles, pins, scissors, name tape/pens, fabrics, elastics, ribbons, buttons etc Sewing Workshops, popular with all ages from 9 years old upwards.

Alterations Service for Clothing and Soft Furnishings.

01280 308721 maryclarestaples@hotmail.co.uk

SOMERSET

Stockists of: • Gorgeous dressmaking fabrics & accessories • Fabulous yarns • Knit & crochet patterns • Knitpro and Brittany accessories • DMC threads • Classes for beginners Tuesday - Friday 10 - 5, Saturday 10 - 2

thesewingcorner26@gmail.com 18b Silver Street, Ilminster TA19 0DJ 01460 391803

To advertise in

please call Jane on 0161 474 6997

www.handmadehappyhare.com

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49

Rossella

Magical

unicorn hoop Take some time out and stitch a pretty unicorn with a cleverly concealed lavender bag to make your room smell sweet Project ROSSELLA COTTRELL

HOME

A

B

C

D

E

F

SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• Fantasy Threaders Embroidery Transfer Sheets •• Bolds Threaders Embroidery Stranded Cotton •• white linen-look fabric •• Threaders wooden embroidery hoop •• white felt •• calico •• lavender •• ribbon •• crewel/embroidery needle HOW TO MAKE : Cut around the unicorn and text transfers from the pack using paper scissors and place them in the desired position, face down, on white linen-look fabric. Iron for a few seconds with a dry iron. (See Pic A.)

1

5 6

12

7

13

Embroider the outline of the unicorn in chain stitch.

Work the ears and the outline of the horn with split stitch and the inner lines in backstitch. The nostrils and hooves are also worked in backstitch.

Cut lilac thread to approximately 30cm and the same in the blue.

Combine one thread of each colour to work the mane and tail. Begin by weaving the thread through previous stitches on the reverse of your work and embroider in split stitch.

Stitch the words ‘Unicorns are real’ using a double strand of lilac and backstitch. The text box is worked with a double strand of pink in split stitch.

9

10

3

4

Cut a circle in white felt and stitch to the reverse of your work. (See pics E and F.) Attach a bow and ribbon to your hoop to hang and admire it!

Get the look

8

Use a double strand of pink thread to embroider the stars with small straight Lay the fabric over the inner wooden stitches. Stitch French knots randomly hoop and place the outer hoop on top. around the design.

Press down to secure the fabric within the hoop and tighten the screw to ensure the Cut two calico circles 2cm fabric is taut and the design is central. smaller than the hoop and stitch (See Pic B.) together using a 1cm seam allowance, leaving a gap, then fill with Lavender.

Cut a length of lilac embroidery Sew up the opening. (See Pic C.) thread approximately 60cm long.

Separate a single strand and fold in half.

Ensure the upper hoop is Thread the two loose ends through the taut over your project. Place eye of the needle. the lavender bag so it sits on the reverse of the embroidery. Sew a Make a tiny stitch on the surface of running stitch around the edge of your project and pass the needle the embroidery approximately 1cm through the looped end of the thread to away from the inner hoop. Catch the anchor your stitching. This stitch will be lavender bag occasionally in your covered as you work. stitching to ensure it stays in place

2

when your finished project is on the wall. (See Pic D.)

11

Fantasy Threaders Companion Embroidery Transfers

From decorative seashells to mermaids and fairy tale castles, create your own embroidery fantasies with this pretty transfer kit £4.99 per pack

Bolds Threaders Stranded Embroidery Cotton

Six co-ordinated threads, made from 100% Egyptian cotton in bold colours.

Each skein is 8m £7.99 per pack

All available from www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

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51

Discounts giveaways Lovely sewing goodies and patterns to win, plus generous discounts to help fill your fabric stash WIN A BOOK BUNDLE

Three lucky readers will win a copy of Minki Kim’s Diary in Stitches (C&T Publishing, $25.95) WORTH and Judy Gauthier’s OVER Sew Cuddly (C&T Publishing, $21.95).

Transform everyday accessories with Minki Kim’s charming project book Diary in Stitches that includes 65 stitchable drawings to help you personalise a range of accessories or make unique gifts for family and friends. The book includes six useful projects – including a sewing machine cover and mini quilt – that incorporate embroidery and appliqué to help you build your hand-stitching skills. Sew Cuddly includes 12 fun and fashionable projects to help you sew successfully with plush and faux-fur fabric. Gauthier covers a variety of key skills including appliqué, binding, and how to insert a zipper, making this project book ideal for all levels of sewist. Find out more about these titles at www.ctpub.com

WIN A HABERDASHERY BUNDLE One lucky reader will win this fabulous selection of items courtesy of Clover and Gütermann. Within the bundle of goodies you’ll find a lovely thread set in rich, vibrant shades alongside a tailor’s measuring tape, which is a very handy addition to your sewing stash.

You’ll also win a fat quarter pack from the Gütermann Long Island collection and a pair of Bordeauxcoloured scissors! For stockist information contact, clover@ stockistenquiries.co.uk and gutermann@stockistenquiries. co.uk

£100

Exclusive discounts!

SAVE 20% on jersey at Minerva Crafts with the code SEWNOW20.

Offer valid from 13th September – 18th October 2018. Visit www.minervacrafts.com

52

WWW.SEWN OWMAG.CO.UK

SAVE 20% on fabric with the code SEWNOW20. Simply head to www.sewhot.co.uk between 13th September and 18th October to take advantage of this amazing offer!

WIN A ROLL OF VLIESELINE SEAM TAPE FLEXIBLE

Five lucky readers will win a roll of Seam Tape Flexible from Vlieseline. This new bi-elastic, lightweight fusible woven tape is cut on the bias and therefore perfect for use on jersey and other stretchy fabric. Seam Tape Flexible prevents warping and fraying and can be applied to curved shapes to provide the necessary support and stability. To find out more about Vlieseline products, visit www.vlieseline.com and for stockist information, contact Lady Sew and Sew 01491 572 528 www.ladysewandsew.co.uk or Six Penny Memories 01207 565728 www.six-penny.com

5

TO WIN

DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS WIN A HELLO GORGEOUS ECO POUCH BY CHRISTINA CAMELI

6

TO WIN

We love these vibrant eco pouches designed

by Christina Cameli.

Keep all your precious sewing notions stored safely with this happy duo of zippered eco pouches. Composed of recycled plastic, these sturdy organisers can store all types of sewing tools and they’re waterproof too! To see more fabulous items from C&T Publishing, visit www.ctpub.com

WIN A PATTERN FROM THE AVID SEAMSTRESS

Top up your pattern pile with this fantastic giveaway from The Avid Seamstress. Three lucky readers will win The City Trousers pattern, the perfect project to kick-start your autumn wardrobe. The City Trousers epitomise chic urban style with their modern interpretation of the classic cigarette trousers featuring a subtle flair. Create a flattering shape with the narrow waistband, side pockets and invisible zip – this is one pattern that offers lots of versatility for beginner to advanced sewists.

To see more patterns from The Avid Seamstress, visit www.theavidseamstress.co.uk

3

TO WIN

WORTH OVER

£350

WIN A PREMIUM MEMBERSHIP TO THE CORSET ACADEMY

If you’re eager to stretch your dressmaking skills and try something new then this is a competition not to be missed! We’re offering one lucky reader the chance to win an annual premium membership to the Corset Academy. If you’ve ever thought about creating a beautiful corseted gown, or even your own wedding dress, the Corset Academy has an online database comprising over 450 video tutorials to enable you to learn about the technology behind corset design and construction and put your knowledge into practice with easy-to-follow instructions. To find out more about Corset Academy, visit www.corsetacademy.net

To enter, go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow25

Closing date: 18th October 2018. Only one entry per person. Open to UK residents only. We promise we’ll always keep your data safe and will never share it with or sell it to other companies for marketing purposes. Our full privacy policy is available at www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/privacy W W W.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

53

Claire

Use your template download

Little birdie

TIE-NECK BLOUSE The Tania top is a great way to make a breezy summer blouse and practise your bias binding skills

Project CLAIRE GARSIDE Photographer RENATA STONYTE Model GEORGIA for BOSS MODEL MANAGEMNENT Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD

STYLE SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 1.5m of light or medium-weight fabric •• 50cm-square piece of fabric if making contrast bias •• co-ordinating thread •• templates from www.sewnowmag.co.uk

4

FABRIC SUGGESTIONS •• Light to mid-weight cotton, lawn, viscose, crepe and silk work best. Lace and chiffon can also be suitable if French seam construction is used.

•• Allow extra fabric for one-way designs.

5

HOW TO MAKE: Create the bias binding using the masterclass on page 56. You will need approximately 1.6m for the ties and keyhole.

You can always make extra if you’d like to bind the armholes instead of using sleeves.

1

7

Turn up the sleeve hem, (you should have overlocked or zigzag-stitched the raw hem edge already as a part of your general preparation) and sew in place. Press with iron. (See Pic E.)

shoulder seams. Press the seams open. (See Pic B.) Repeat for the side seams.

On the WS of the keyhole pin the RS of your small bias binding piece around the opening and sew at the first fold. Fold over along the centre crease to enclose the raw edge and top-stitch on the RS.

8

Turn up the hem, pin or press in place, then sew to secure. Press to complete.

(See Pic F.)

Fold over the short ends by 1cm then fold over the bias as you did with the keyhole to the RS so it encloses the seam allowance. On the RS, top-stitch the bias around the neckline, down to the ends of the bias binding, keeping the ends tucked in for a neat finish. (See Pic C.) Note: If making a sleeveless top, sew bias binding around the armholes also.

Get the look

6

With RST fold one sleeve in half, and sew the side seam. (See Pic D.) Sew the bust darts on the bodice front Press the seam open. Repeat for the and press downwards. (See Pic A.) other sleeve. Sew the sleeve in place within the armhole by placing them RST Place the front and back and using gathering stitches to ease the bodices RST and sew at the sleeve in if necessary.

2 3

Change up your colours

Old Gold Chaffinch Bough cotton lawn £7.50 per half metre

www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

Descriptions/size

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

22

Bust

37”

38”

39.5

401/2”

421/2"

441/2"

461/2”

481/2”

51”

Hips

37”

38”

391/2"

401/2”

42.5"

441/2"

461/2”

481/2”

51”

A

B

C

D E

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55

MASTERCLASS

SELF-MADE BIAS TAPE

Making your own bias tape is a great technique for a co-ordinating look. We show you how to maximise your fabric Take a square piece of fabric and cut neatly along the diagonal centre as shown.

crossgrain straight grain

straight grain straight grain

straight grainstraight grain straight grain straight grain

crossgrain

crossgrain

straight grain

Sew the two triangles you have created together and crossgrain press the seam open. Mark parallell rows in watercrossgrain soluble markerstraight that start 4cm from the edge. Try not to grain in will distort the bias. pull the fabric as you crossgra mark it as this crossgrain

straight crossgrain grain

straight crossgrain grain

crossgrain straight grain crossgrain crossgrain crossgra in

We love

If your pressing hand is not so steady, Prints to single-fold Polkadots has the perfect solution! bias This tape cute set of She Sews Bias tape makers include four tape single-fold makers in 6mm (1/4”), 12mm bias tape (1/2”), 18mm (3/4”), 9mm/3⁄8”.

You can create perfect bias tape by threading your homemade strips through the tape maker and simply single-fold pressing on the other side. bias tape Best of all they come in a handy drawstring bag with a full set of instructions for both single and doubleold tape. single-f

Happy tape making! bias tape

56

WWW.SEWN OWMAG.CO.UK

Now sew thestraight unsewn edges together to form a loop of crossgrain grain fabric, ensuring your marked lines match up as best as possible. It straight may help to turn yourstraight work WS out to sew grain foot positioned it, with your machine inside the loop. grain crossgrain Press the seam open.

straight grain

crossgrain double-fold bias tape

double-fold bias tape Cut along the lines you marked with a small pair of needlework scissors.Press your bias first along the long centre crease, then press each side towards the middle to create double- fold bias tape.

double-fold bias tape

double-fold bias tape Now you can install your bias binding onto your garment.

Playful

PRINTS Add some fun fabric to your stash with this 20% fabric discount from Sew Hot

Sweet Dreams Glisten Source Code, £14 per metre

Lavender Enchanted Unicorns Galore, £14.50 per metre

Dark Blue Beach Road Dancing Leaves, £14.50 per metre

De La Luna Haunted I See You, £13.80 per metre

Blue Hyakka Ryoran Neko Cats on Flowers, £14.50 per metre

Small Things Magical Fairies Light Silver with Gold Metallic, £12 per metre

Yellow Spectacle Sunbeam, £15.50 per metre

SAVE 20% on fabric

www.whitestuff.com

You’re All My Favorites Moons Blue, £14.50 per metre

with the code SEWNOW20.

Simply head to www.sewhot.co.uk between 13th September and 18th October to take advantage of this amazing offer!

W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

57

’s n g UK i e e ew i n Th .1 s gaz o N ma

MAKE IT A

wonderful winter

Don’t miss!

THREE GIFTS WORTH OVER

£30

ISSUE 58

ON SALE

13TH SEPT Contents and gift subject to change

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/ls58

INSPIRATION Bag £34 www.oliverbonas.com

Hemline orange four-pack novelty spotty buttons £2.20, www.hobbycraft.co.uk

Clare coat PDF pattern $14 (approximately £10.98), www.store.closetcasepatterns.com

A Growing Garden Metallic English Garden Rifle Paper Co. £8 per half metre, www.thecraftymastermind.co.uk

Falling

FOR YOU

Orla Kiely water bottle £16.95, www.andshine.co.uk

Celebrate autumn with our favourite seasonal items Gold piping £4.75,

www.clothandcandy.co.uk

Jungle Tiger apron £32, www.anthropologie.com

Tilda Hot Chocolate Sewing

by Tone Finnanger £16.99, www.sewandso.co.uk

Pack of two tea towels £12.95, www.joules.com

Anemone Bouquet minilite umbrella £26, www.cathkidston.com

W WW.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

59

Sweet Garden of Mine Lecien’s New Range

By Lynette Anderson

Available Dec/Jan in conjunction with

Printed in Japan

My Journey with Nutex

“I met Gregg and Jay, the father and son team at Nutex NZ about 12 years ago when I started designing fabrics for Lecien Fabrics. Since then the Nutex team has spread its wings to include the UK where Darren heads the team. Nutex are not only a pleasure to work with but are a dynamic company who place customer service first and foremost”

Lynette For Your Stockist contact www.nutexuk.co.uk Email: warehouse@nutexuk.co.uk Tel: 0191 454 5605

WORKSHOPS

Sewing

WORKSHOPS Brush up on the basics or learn something new at a workshop near you

Dot to Dot Studio East Sussex Dot to Dot Studio is a small independent sewing school offering a wide range of dressmaking and sewing classes for adults, kids and teens. Check out the website for the full range!

01825 841311 www.dottodotstudio.co.uk 23RD SEPTEMBER Sunday sewing In this totally indulgent day of sewing you can make what you want at your own pace, with expert tuition on hand! Once a month: 10am-4pm.

Cost: £70 6TH OCTOBER Get to know your sewing machine Learn what all those dials and buttons do,

Sewisfaction Wokingham The team at Sewisfaction loves helping people unleash their creative superpowers with a whole range of fun, friendly sewing and craft classes for all ages and all levels! www.sewisfaction.co.uk 12TH OCTOBER Dressmaking for all levels This regular six-week course is for anyone who wants help sewing a handmade wardrobe. Be guided by our expert teacher with everything from pattern adjustments to finishing techniques.

Cost: £145

their sewing skills to the next level. In this fullday workshop, you will learn a range of quilting techniques that you can apply to your own patchwork and quilting projects. 10am-4pm Cost: £80 and all these extra bits and bobs that come with your machine. It's perfect for newbies, refreshers, or those who just want to get to know their sewing machine better!

10am-4pm.

Cost: £70 3RD NOVEMBER Quilting techniques workshop This masterclass in quilting techniques, is for anyone who’d like to learn how to take 22ND – 26TH OCTOBER Children’s Sewing Bee club Kids aged 8+ can unleash their sewing superpowers at our half-term sewing sessions. Everything from cushions to rucksacks, unicorns to monsters will be sewn up. It’s the perfect introduction for younger sewists.

Cost: £30

10TH & 17TH NOVEMBER Freehand machine embroidery workshop In this full-day workshop the fabulous Lara Sparks will be sharing her passion for freehand machine embroidery, helping you to use a sewing machine in your own creative way. All levels welcome! A basic level of sewing knowledge is helpful but not essential. All you need to bring is an enthusiasm to learn a new skill. 10am-4pm Cost: £75 embroidery, including thread sketching and raw-edge appliqué techniques.

You’ll have the opportunity to create cards, hanging decorations, gift tags and bookmarks, all with a festive theme.

Suitable for beginners upwards.

Cost: £45

27TH OCTOBER Copy your clothes Do you have a favourite dress or top, or maybe the perfect pair of trousers that you’ve wished you could clone? This class will help you create a pattern from your garment without you having to unpick your precious original!

Cost: £70 7TH DECEMBER Festive free-motion embroidery Learn the fun art of freehand machine W W W.S EWNOWMAG.CO.U K

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Debbie

Märkbar notebook

COVER

'Märkbar' means significant, something that you should not pass by in Swedish. So gather your supplies and learn how to free-machine embroider this autumnal book cover Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER

ACCESSORY SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 37cm square denim for outer cover •• 35cm square text fabric for lining •• 45.5x56cm co-ordinating fabric for slip pockets •• floral & green fabric scraps for appliqué flower & leaves •• 30cm square Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding •• fat quarter Vlieseline S320 fusible interlining •• co-ordinating thread for topstitching •• pink thread for appliqué •• darning foot •• glue stick •• embroidery hoop (optional) •• template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk NOTES: Seam allowance is 0.5cm for all projects unless otherwise stated. This cover fits a standard A5 notebook with ease HOW TO MAKE: For the main outer cover, cut a 25x37cm panel from the denim and interface with the wadding. Cut two 25x12cm panels from the denim and interface these with wadding. These form the beginnings of the inner flaps.

1

2

Use the template to cut out and make the flower from the floral and green fabric scraps. Glue your flower onto the far right of the denim panel, centring the design as best you can. With the pink thread, set up your machine for freemachine embroidery and embroider the flower and the details in place. Neaten the threads at the end and set aside.

3

For the left-hand flap on the inside of the cover, which will have pockets for

pencils, cut 15x12cm pocket interfacing from the interlining. Cut a piece of text fabric and a piece from co-ordinating fabric, both 1cm larger all around than the interfacing. Fuse the interfacing centrally to the WS of the co-ordinating fabric.

4

With RST, sew the pocket’s top seam only. Trim the seam allowances back to 0.5cm. The seam allowances on the sides and bottom can be trimmed right back to the interfacing so that the pocket fits over the panel.

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Flip it all the right way out and press so that the top edge is smooth. Narrowly top-stitch along the same edge with coordinating thread.

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Align the small and larger pockets’ bottom and sides and pin.

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Lay both onto the denim panel and align the bottom and sides. Tack all the layers together.

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Take the front panel and the lefthand side flap and, with RST, attach the panel. Repeat with the right-hand side flap.

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Prepare a piece of lining slightly larger than the denim outer panel with both the flaps attached. Lay the completed denim outer onto the lining with RST and then pin and sew the perimeter, leaving a turning gap in the middle bottom. Turn out through the gap and press.

Lay this pocket onto the interfaced denim panel and align the bottom and side edges. Tack the sides and Fold the flaps in and narrowly topbottom so that all layers are together. Sew stitch the top and bottom, giving three vertical seams down the pocket to the cover its shape. create penholders.

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For the inside of the right flap, cut two pieces of interlining, one measuring 20x12cm and the other 10x12cm. The longer piece will be for the long pocket at the back and the smaller for the smaller front pocket.

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Cut two pieces of lining and two of co-ordinating fabric, both slightly larger than the interfacing piece as before (see Step 3), and fuse the wadding to the wrong side of the co-ordinating fabric. With RST, stitch the interfaced co-ordinating fabric to the lining along the top seam only. Trim the seams and flip over, press and top-stitch.

Project taken from Lagom-style Accessories

by Debbie von Grabler-Crozier Available from www.searchpress.com priced £7.99

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the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

first seam allowance

Behind the SEAMS Whatever your level of expertise, step up your skills with our handy guide to seam finishes

Simple seam finishes

FRENCH SEAMS

This construction technique and seam finish is perfect for lightweight or sheer fabric.

PINKING SHEARS

Simply trim your seam allowance edges with pinking shears after the seam has been sewn. Do not trim before sewing the seam unless you have marked the stitching line.

The zigzag edge will prevent fabric from fraying.

(WS)

How to make:

pinking shears finish TOP-STITCHED EDGES

Start with a sewn seam that has been pressed open. Press each seam allowance under by 1/8" to the WS and top-stitch each seam allowance edge to secure the raw edge underneath.

(WS)

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Place fabrics WST. Sew a 3/8" seam allowance from the raw edge and trim to 1/8".

topstitched finish ZIGZAG FINISH

This can be used before or after a seam has been sewn. Sew through the seam allowance only, close to each raw edge with a zigzag stitch and press to set the stitches. The stitch should neatly fall at or just off the edge.

(WS)

2

Press open the seam and press over with RST. Sew a second seam Âź" from the edge. This will trap the seam allowance edges behind the second line of stitching.

zigzag finish HONG KONG SEAMS

Also known as bound seams, these feature the application of double-fold bias tape after every seam is sewn, before moving onto the next construction step.

How to make:

1

Sew a straight seam and press open. Press one side of the bias tape open and pin it along the edge of one seam allowance with RST. Sew along the crease to attach the seam allowance and bias tape together.

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Wrap the bias tape around the edge of the seam allowance and pin in place so the tape sits just over the sewn stitching line.

3

Secure by stitching in the ditch or just to the inside of the original stitching to catch the folded bias tape on the back of the seam. Sew

only through the bias tape and seam allowance, not garment.

Repeat on remaining seam allowance to finish.

In the next issue of

YOUR 5-IN-1 7432 jersey dress Babydoll dress

Festive table coasters See page 24 for details of how to subscribe

SIZES 16-28

Christmas party top

SIZES 8-20

Stroller sleep bag

ISSUE 26 ON SALE 11TH OCTOBER

EDITORIAL Editor Sam Sterken Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Art Editor Sher Ree Tai Art Editor Craig Chubb Junior Designer Jennifer Tyers Designer Alex Hunt Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editors Kayleigh Hooton, Chantelle Salkeld Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Contributors Katy Cameron, Rossella Cottrell, Wendy Gardiner, Claire Garside, Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, Fiona Hesford, Marilla Walker ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul amanda.paul@practicalpublishing.co.uk Sales & Information Support Executive Stacey Oldman PUBLISHING Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Financial Director Chris Dunbar Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson Subscription enquiries 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk Other enquiries 0844 561 1202 customerservice@practicalpublishing.co.uk DISTRIBUTION Seymour Distribution Ltd CONTACT Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Sew Now (ISSN: 2398-9610) is published by Practical Publishing Int Ltd. All material Š Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The style and mark of Sew Now is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced without the express consent of Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity. DISCLAIMER The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those the publisher. Every care is taken to ensure that the contents of the magazine are accurate, but the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors. While reasonable care has been taken when accepting advertisements, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory transactions, but will investigate any written complaints. Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc

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INTERVIEW

5 minutes with…

CocoWawa Crafts Cue pretty sewing patterns with a flattering fit – that’s exactly what you’ll find at CocoWawa Crafts.

We speak to the creator Ana to find out more about this fabulous brand Hi Ana! How are you?

Can you tell us what’s currently on your sewing table?

Hi! Apart from making samples for the next CocoWawa pattern (out in October!), I Ana am trying to finish a few projects before I go on holiday. I have three basic T-shirts in solid colours, two pairs of PJs, one for winter and one for summer, a dress and a few things that need mending. So lots going on but there are only 24 hours in a day!

Can you tell us why you decided to start CocoWawa Crafts?

I studied journalism at university in Spain, where I come from (I’ve been living in London for more than seven years). I worked in Spain as a staff writer and then in London as a freelance journalist, but everything changed when I learned to sew around six years ago. I was looking for something that made me happy outside work. I was suffering from anxiety and attended

“I keep tons of pictures of garments, colour palettes, types of fabric, from the late 50s and early 60s (my favourite eras) to present day for inspiration” a sewing class – it was love at first sight! I opened a small fabric shop on Etsy and started combining this with journalism. I studied pattern cutting for womenswear and professional sewing skills at the London College of Fashion, attended workshops, read sewing and pattern-cutting books and, at the end of 2016, decided to launch my first sewing pattern, the Marshmallow Dress, and CocoWawa Crafts was born.

I then decided to pursue my career in sewing full-time as the publishing company where I was working had to close. I now combine this with teaching sewing to kids, hosting the

#sewinghourchat on Instagram, filming videos for YouTube and another 100 things I say yes to!

You’ve created so many lovely pieces, how do you decide what to make?

I’ve got a huge (private) board on Pinterest where I keep tons of pictures of garments, colour palettes, fabric, from the late 50s and early 60s (my favourite eras) to present day for inspiration. I have a notebook where I draw all the patterns as I see them in my head and details of garments I’ve seen out and about. I am inspired by Instagram and all the amazing things people make.

Which pattern is proving most popular at the moment?

The Honeycomb dress and shirt has been a turning point. Lots of people have discovered me thanks to this pattern and many people have already made a version… or two or three! The Chestnut sweater and top is also popular – it's so easy to make and perfect for autumn. I hope the next pattern will be as successful.

Is there anything new or exciting coming up over the next few months?

Yes! The new pattern for the new season. It will also be easy to sew but will have one or two new techniques for people to learn.

To find out more, visit www.cocowawacrafts.com

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