2 FREE Stitch Clever! STRETCH KNIT MASTERCLASS · LACE TRICKS PATTERNS
OCT 2018 ISS 115 £7.99
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Best-ever Outfïts
x
! WOW ake
for the new season
Star m
Make in sizes 6-24*
Easy Projects, Fast Results!
PLUS
Make our
Quick & Cute Kitty
STOCKING FILLERS · SIMPLE HOME DÉCOR
Hello... October
28
The October issue is here and there’s an enticing hint of autumn in the air. It’s just about time to shake out those winter woolies ready for cooler days! Our freebie patterns this issue offer a selection of muststitch garments: Simplicity 1606 boasts three Amazing Fit dresses with options for luxurious lace layering, while Simplicity 8529 provides cosy sweaters with dropped shoulders and side slit detailing. Complete your heritage capsule with Julia Claridge’s floral wrap top (p22), which can be tied to create two completely different outfits. Look lovely in linen with our pleated berry skirt (p24) and multi-purpose pinafore (p28), before kicking back in a jersey trapeze design, complete with step-by-step photos to help make stitching this knit number a breeze (p37). Once your wardrobe is stocked up with the latest delights, be sure to turn your attention to the rest of our sewing extras. We’ve pulled together five stash-busting makes for the home, which will help you create a hygge vibe on a budget. Tune into part two of our Clementine Cat tutorial – a dainty tulle party dress (p52). You’ll also find our fat quarter stocking filler ideas, topped off with an incredible £7 offer from Create and Craft (p66). Finally, I’m delighted to reveal our shortlisted nominees in this year’s British Sewing Awards. The response this year has been astounding, so don’t forget to have your say at the voting stage, too! You can find out how to get involved on page 40.
22
Happy sewing!
Lucy xx
Lucy Jobber, Sew editor
Project exclusive to
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66 sew
Turn to p66 for our amazing £7 fat quarter offer!
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in your October issue... 22
50
77
We love!
IN EVERY ISSUE
TEA BREAK
Come and say hello!
Sew chats to the Secret Projects founder
03 Welcome
06 Who, what, wear
What’s trending in the sewing world
17 Sew social
You’ve been sharing your makes
44 Stitch & learn Our list of top sewing classes
56 Sew wishlist
The team’s round-up for October
84 Your sewing guide
Sewing jargon explained!
87 The books we’re loving The latest must-reads
89 Next month
32 Tea with Fritha Vincent 40 British Sewing Awards
Cast your vote for the chance to win £1,700 worth of prizes
42 Fashioned by nature
How can you make your clothes more sustainable?
58 Sew Saturday
Get the low-down on this exciting stitchy event!
90 Style story: the pea coat
GIFTS
69 Patchwork stocking
Create Susie Johns’ Day of the Dead accessory
69 Table mat
48 Tote bag
50 Plaid Bag
Sew a woollen over -the-shoulder design
Its history is more intriguing than you might think...
HOME
KIDS
Stitch festive mats
52 Clementine Cat
Stitch a cute dress to complete your furry companion
68 Star coasters
68 Reversible bowl covers The perfect afternoon stitchy project
Our Christmas issue’s out on 20th September
Santa Claus, please stop here!
You’ll want to invite the whole family over to marvel at this make
70 Stuart Hillard
Our columnist is on the move this month 72 Bunting cushion This hygge home pillow is a dream! 72 Scrap lampshade Create a stylish fabric-knot cover 73 Floor cushion Whip up a cute home accessory 74 Cosy throw Add extra pizzazz to any bed 75 Stylish curtains Use up your fabric scraps 76 Confessions of a sewing addict Corinne shares her thoughts on shopping local
48
72 04
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77 Tablet cover This chic project is perfect for bookworms!
68 52
FREEBIES & OFFERS
78 20% off* Ray Stitch
7
2
Dressmaking pages of fashion,
Use your gifts to create show-stopping dresses and snuggly jumpers
30 garments & more! 10 Cosy jumpers Use your pattern to make four warm sweaters 12 Gorgeous dresses Sew figure-flattering frocks with your pattern 20 Autumnal fabric Embrace the cooler months with these stunning materials 22 Naomi top Stitch a gorgeous wrap blouse 24 Rosalie skirt Perfect your pleats with this linen piece
13
27 Sewing with Tilly Get to grips with corduroy 28 Molly Pinafore Whip up a batch of baked goodies while wearing your new make! 30 Sewing SOS Our experts’ top tips for altering patterns 34 Indie pattern news Don’t miss out on these independent brand picks 36 Lauren Guthrie’s top tools ...for measuring and marking
FREE PATTERNS
10
37
37 Daphne dress Hone your dressmaking skills with this trapeze tutorial 46 Debbie Shore’s show and tell Master the art of the dart
£7 fabric offer
70 06 20% OFF Abakhan Replenish your stash this month
07 20% OFF Ray Stitch You won’t want to miss out on this bargain!
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70 Create & Craft reader offer £7 Christmas fat quarter bundle, plus FREE P&P
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TWO dressmaking patterns! DRESSES & JUMPERS
wear
who what
&
The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!
Artistic icon
This autumn, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Tate Modern exhibition which features the work of iconic textile artist, Anni Albers! The display will feature over 350 projects which combine a variety of arts and crafts, including stunning small-scale drawings, large wall hangings and beautiful hand-weaving. Find your ticket to see this trailblazing artist’s work via tate.org.uk
Great read Want to kick your quilting skills up a notch? Or simply create a present for a friend? Carolyn Forster’s bestselling The Joy of Jelly Rolls is perfect for any budding stitcher. The book boasts 44 gorgeous gift projects, alongside 24 cosy quilts to make in a range of different sizes and styles. With this expert advice, you’ll be well on your way to kitting out your home in no time at all! searchpress.com
20% off
Autumn chic
The River dress pattern is the epitome of smart, sophisticated style which will see you through from day to night when paired with either ankle boots, heels or sandals. It’s also ideal for your capsule wardrobe – make up in cool linens or comfy knits for the perfect year-round ensemble. You’ll be able to stretch your skills with this make, too, with in-seam pockets, cap sleeves, hemming and belt loops. £11.40 / £13.70, megannielsen.com
*
*Valid from 23rd August until 20th September 2018. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Terms and conditions can be found via abakhan.co.uk/terms.
Abakhan!
Here at Sew HQ, we say you can never have too much fabric! So head over to Abakhan with your 20% off discount to stock up on all sorts of material goodies, from Liberty prints and smooth silks, to faux furs and cosy knits. Visit abakhan.co.uk and use SEW20*.
NEW RANGE Fabric fever!
20% off!*
The brand-new Dream collection from Makower UK is here! This range blends a mixture of pastel pinks and light greys, with subtle creams and neutral tones – perfect for all of your stitchy makes. Makower UK have also uploaded a FREE quilt pattern designed by Lynn Goldsworthy and a tote bag project by Janet Goddard onto its website – so head over and get your craft on! Visit makoweruk.com 06
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if you buy one pattern...
Blue St Tropez Print Shirt Dress, £69, sosander.com
We love with the New Look 6470 shirt dress and tunic pattern. With its button-front detailing and side slits, you’ll be able to whip up a timeless staple for your wardrobe. Make the dress in contrasting fabrics for a bold look, or keep it simple with your favourite plain material – either way, you’re bound to find a style that suits you with four variations to choose from. £6.95, simplicitynewlook.com
want it, need it, BUY IT!
Bernina has now launched a range of special edition machines and accessories to commemorate its 125th anniversary! The models feature a gold design and a gold-plated adjustable ruler foot, so you’ll feel well and truly regal when creating your next stitchy project! For stockists, visit bernina.com
Perfect pinny
20% off!*
For relaxed, casual style, make the Pippi pinafore! It’s ideal for those who like a bib-style dress, but want to include more shaping around the bust area to create a flattering fit. This pattern caters for multiple bust sizes, so you won’t have to make extra adjustments to achieve the perfect fit, plus it comes with detailed instructions on how to choose the right size for your shape.
20% OFF* Ray Stitch!
Head over to the Ray Stitch website with your discount code SEWMAG20 to get 20% off* your next purchase! The offer includes everything from fabrics and haberdashery, to sewing patterns and books. It’s a great opportunity to purchase some pretty additions for your stitchy stash! raystitch.co.uk
£9.96, jenniferlauren handmade.store 07
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*Valid from 23rd August until 30th September 2018. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or workshops.
HERITAGE collection
Drawing on luxe fabrics and classic designs, this month’s collection brings fabulous style potential. There’s popping party frocks and elegant wrap tops, plus, you can boost your skillset with heavy-weight linens and comfy stretch knits. Which one will you make first?
& PAGE
10
cosy
get stitching
your free patterns
PAGE
SWEATER
12
STATEMENT
Master stretch knits with Simplicity 8529
dress
Learn to stitch with lace using Simplicity 1606
our pattern PROMISE
All of our patterns are available in sizes 8-20* * Covermounted gifts may vary 08
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PAGE
22 WRAPAND-GO top
Create two different looks with one quick pattern
PAGE
37
TRAPEZE style
Discover our photo-guide for this jersey go-to
PAGE
24
BERRY skirt
PAGE
28
LINEN
Crack the box pleat technique with this linen lovely
pinafore
Slip on a cross-back design for easy autumnal chic
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STITCH Stitch ITitWITH with
your free pattern
of your
potential
Discover the
2FREE
patterns
This month, your TWO patterns give you the chance to work with knit fabrics and lace to provide seven stylish outfits for your autumn wardrobe. Begin with the Simplicity 8529 pattern which offers FOUR COSY JUMPERS with either a round or high neckline. Opt for a side-split design for a super-stylish look, or a more traditional-fitting sweater with a contrasting collar and cuffs.
ease that SLEEVE
Sewing in a sleeve can be one of the most challenging parts of creating a top. To make the task easier, ensure you cut it on the correct fabric grain and transfer all of the notches and matching dots from your pattern onto the material. Pin the sleeve into the armhole, anchoring it at these points. Secure again halfway between these points to distribute the fullness evenly. Use two to three rows of tacking stitches when easing in the sleeve, and remember to sew the rows with the right side of the sleeve facing up, so that the bobbin stitches are on the wrong side of the sleeve cap.
pick your NEEDLE
Your Simplicity pattern can be made in stretchy knit fabrics, which means you’ll need to select the right kind of needle. Ballpoint or jersey are your best bet, as they’re specifically designed with this type of material in mind. They have rounded tips which pushes the fabric aside when stitching, rather than ripping it. If your chosen fabric is light- to medium-weight, then opt for sizes 75 or 80, but for heavier weights, choose 90.
Prym jersey ballpoint sewing machine needles, £2.39 for five, minervacrafts.com
on the right FOOT
To prevent the fabric from stretching while sewing, use a walking or a dual foot attachment on your machine. This will help to grip the fabric and feed the layers through at the same speed – the type of foot you need will depend on the sewing model. It’s also worth checking if your machine has a dial for reducing the presser foot pressure, as this will help to avoid stretching the material too much.
choose a THREAD
When stitching with stretch knits, avoid using a cotton thread as it has no stretch, which can result in popped seams. Instead, an all-purpose polyester thread should do the trick. Polyester has just the right amount of give, so you can achieve a professionally-finished garment, without any stitchy mishaps!
pattern MATCHING
To make up pattern A, we chose a lightweight ribbed jersey fabric. When matching stripes or prints, remember to allow extra fabric and choose a side notch on each pattern piece so you can mark where that point will appear on the print or stripe.
We used Stripe Ribbed Jersey – Pink & Orange, £8.50 per metre, fabricgodmother.co.uk
coming up ROSY
Ensure the perfect fit by taking your body measurements and matching this to the Simplicity pattern guide. You can always go back and skim off any excess to reduce it by one size each time. If you find that your garment still doesn’t sit right and you need to make adjustments, then look at the overall fit of your top and narrow down any changes that need to be made.
We used Mettler Seralon polyester universal thread in Brick and Black for our side-split tunic, £1.59 for 100m, minervacrafts.com 10
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Lady McElroy – Hummingbirds Ponte Roma Jersey, £7.90 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk
to find out what your second pattern has to offer, turn to p12
STITCH Stitch it ITwith WITH
4 stylish
your free pattern
style selector
jumpers to sew
style a
CASUAL CHIC This cool side-split tunic complements all shapes and sizes. Plus, the off-set shoulder seams create a stylish look that is on-trend for autumn.
style b
NEAT SEAMS Make this high-neck jumper in a fleece material so you can practise securing seams with zig zag stitch, then pair it with funky, printed trousers for an ultra-chic look.
style c
BEST OF BOTH This jumper is similar to design A, featuring a round neckline and a chic side-split – perfect for keeping you warm in the autumn chill.
why we made Style A
style d
FAB TRIM If you love mixing up textures and splashes of colour, then opt for style D. Play around with contrasting fabrics for the neck and sleeve bands to create your desired look.
Our dressmaker chose to create this design because of the on-trend side-split seam. The slouchy drape and gorgeous striped knit material makes this an ideal garment for practising neat seams with zig zag stitch or an overlocker, as well as pattern matching.
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Stitch it with
dream
machines 3
Get to grips with jersey and pattern matching with this on-trend make
party£249 ready dresses
EXPERT FINISH!
INNOV-IS 15
With 16 built-in stitches, a one-step buttonhole function and a quick-set bobbin, you’ll be able to whip up beautiful makes in no time at all! This model features a bright LED light, which makes it easier on the eyes when working with dark fabrics, plus it enables you to select whether the needle should be up or down when the machine stops – a useful function when turning material, sewing corners or joining quilt pieces.
CREATIVE STITCHING!
£599
INNOV-IS F420
Whether you’re a sewing beginner or seasoned professional, the Innov-is F420 makes stitching a breeze. The Square Feed Drive System provides you with smooth, even feeding, making this machine perfect for all of your sewing projects, including clothing, homeware and quilting. You’ll have plenty of scope to be creative with this model, too, as it includes 140 built-in stitches and five styles of lettering.
Visit brothersewing.co.uk
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Stitch it with
with your
get creative
free pattern Get ready to party with your Simplicity Amazing Fit 1606 pattern, worth £9.95, which offers three occasion dresses that are perfect for practising princess seams and making a circular skirt. Each style comes with a different type of bodice: choose a vintagestyle halter neck, a cute jewel neck, or a stunning sweetheart neckline with a lace overlay.
your free pattern
buckle UP
Options B and C on this pattern offer you the chance to add a bow or ribbon tie to the waist but, if you prefer, you can adapt the design and add your own fabric belt to the dress. Simply fold and sew one end of the ribbon around a buckle, or transform a tie belt by hemming the raw edges. A velvet ribbon is a great option for a belt, but if you want to use a finer material like satin or silk, then layer two lengths of ribbon wrong sides together and add interfacing in between, then topstitch.
insert BONING
To insert boning, start by sewing the lining together, then stitch the seam allowances together to make a pocket. Next, cut the boning to the length of the seam and insert it into the pocket, then sew along the end and repeat as necessary for each piece you add in. Boning comes coiled in a package which causes it to curl up; before inserting, place the curved piece against the bend of your body.
Our dressmaker used Scalloped Edge Couture Bridal Heavy Guipure Lace in Teal, £41.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com
create an OVERLAY
When choosing the right fabric for your overlay, you must consider a material that won’t block out the print or colour underneath. Lace, organza and double georgette are great options for this, and light colours will allow the fabric used underneath to show through. Also, with an overlay, it’s best to use a French seam as this can be enclosed within the garment.
For the lining, we used Spectrum Solids in Jade. For stockists, visit makoweruk.com
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Stitch it with
the perfect
size
the right
what’s your size?
fit
Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.
SEAM SAVVY
As you sew, make sure all of the seams are in the right places: side seams are, of course, at your side, princess seams fall along the fullest part of your bust, and the waist seam should sit on your natural waist without pulling or wrinkling the fabric. While stitching, you can adjust the seams by pinching in or letting out the material until the dress sits correctly. If you need to make changes, then just remember to mark any new seam lines on the wrong side of the fabric.
PATTERN fit
Simplicity’s Amazing Fit range is great for all sizes, as it includes bust cup measurements from B to D. There’s also a one-inch seam allowance, meaning you can fine-tune the fit to your specific shape. For the perfect dress, the pattern is best based on your bust size. You need to measure at two points: bust and high bust. Subtract your high bust measurement from your bust measurement to find out which cup size you need; for example, if you measure half an inch to one inch, then you’re a size A, and so on. Once you have selected the correct size, check the pattern envelope and compare your other measurements to the waist and hip charts.
PREPARING LACE
Before you start stitching with lace, make sure you wash the material. Lace is usually heavily glued in the factory, so washing it first will make it softer. Once you’ve prepared your fabric, make sure you double check whether the material has a right and wrong side. Often lace doesn’t have this, but it’s good to make sure before you start cutting. Look at the fabric in natural light and even if you don’t notice an obvious difference between each side, try to stick with one throughout just in case.
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Stitch it with
your free pattern
style selector style a RETRO CHIC Dress A channels vintage vibes with its figure-flattering halter neck, boned bodice and circular skirt.
your free pattern
style b
Necklace, £17.50, Marks & Spencer; shoes, £22.99, New Look; bag, £15.99, New Look; bracelet, model’s own
CLASSIC STYLE With style B, you’ll learn how to create a classic jewel neckline and flatter your shape with a bow ribbon detail.
style C
STEP IT UP Looking for a bit more of a challenge? Select style C with its sweetheart neckline and lace overlay, which will test your princess and French seam skills.
Sizes
14-22 (US)
Sizes 6-14 (US)
Next month’s 2 FREE patterns 15
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SPECIAL CELEBRATIONS
Your two FREE patterns are all about classy dresses and cute tops which you can make in time for Christmas parties and beyond!
sew YOU!
We’re always impressed with our readers’ projects, and this month is no exception! Keep up the good work and don’t forget to share your makes with us...
I love stitching indie patterns! During a sewing session with my friend, I made this Maven Patterns dress out of some fantastic Paul Smith fabric – it only took me three hours! Deborah Evans
This weekend I created my first-ever faux leather bag! Beverley Mayhew I only began machine stitching a few weeks ago but I decided to give your Jackie Russell pattern a try... Meet Barksy! I half-sized then printed the pattern – I’m so pleased with the outcome especially because of my novice status! Ravara Lassie
I love sewing animals! This little guy is a Jackson Mouse made from an Amazing Craft kit. Becky Lewis
My first attempt at sewing soft toys was a success! I made Lionel Stitchie from your July issue and I love him – he became my festival mascot, so I gave him a super sparkly makeover! Karen Nagle
I made this super comfortable dress for a wedding last week. I received so many compliments but, most importantly, I felt great! I recently used the same pattern for a summer top and widened the shoulders a tad. Lucie Nicholson
chosen by you
Find our stocking on This month on Facebook, we asked you what goodies you hope
p67
Santa leaves in your stocking. “Dear Santa, please leave me a big, posh sewing machine! But if you can’t, I’ll settle for a decent pair of fabric scissors and a few hours of peace and quiet to sew my Christmas dress.” Frankie Baldwin, Sew reader Help us to choose a name for next month’s mascot at facebook.com/sewhq 17
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Frankie has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk
Continued overleaf
social
Sponsored by Minerva Crafts
www.minervacrafts.com
Write in and WIN! I stitched this Sadie dress from the August issue of Sew for my daughter. I sent it to her home in London during the afternoon and she received it the next day – speedy sewing at its best!
A shirt I gave to my dad for Father’s Day – he loved it! Lucy Picksley
Judy Buckley
The sunhat pattern from your July issue was so straight-forward that I couldn’t resist making a few for my friends and family! I enlarged the pattern in varying sizes for adults, and used fabric left over from previous projects. Doreen Gasson
I recently created this memory elephant for a friend out of their loved one’s clothing. Gail McKnight Anderson
My 60s A-line mini skirt and matching bag. Laura Dickson
Patti Cooke
on the sew blog...
It can be tricky to make the perfect gift to sum-up a friendship, so we’ve rounded up 10 ideas for you so you can treat your bestie.
My granddaughter had her heart set on a particular style and colourway for her prom dress, so when she couldn’t find her dream frock, I made it! This was my first time working with sequin fabric and Duchesse satin. Thank you Sew for your invaluable tips on sewing with these types of materials in issue 103 – I couldn’t have done it without you!
Sew has put together invaluable hacks to help you effectively rip a seam – you can thank us later!
Sit back and take a look at our favourite colourful makes, then delve into creating some of your own!
Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 18
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sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com
e r a h s & h c t i t s
HHHH HH
! hy creations with Sew Share your latest stitc
sew
H
DADTASTIC
STAR
This shirt was a Father’s Day present for my husband. Jo Donnelly
letter
H
SLEEPY KITTY A present made for my granddaughter’s birthday! Phyl Weldon
MAKES WITH A MEANING
I made these ragdolls for four sisters who recently fled their Syrian homeland to be with their parents in England. My mum sewed the exact same style of dolls when I was younger. Although I spent a whole 18 months trying to find the right pattern, I loved creating these ragdolls to welcome the girls into our country.
Sew COLOURFUL I had a go at the embroidery project which featured in your July issue. Jo Donnelly
Elaine Joiner
FLOWER POWER A beautiful, bellsleeved dress I made the other day. This was a joy to sew, but I now need to go somewhere fancy to show it off! Phyl Weldon
WE’RE GREEN WITH ENVY My wife made this Olaf waistcoat for her dad. He also has Union Jack, skull and cross bones and farmyard versions, all complete with matching bow-ties, of course. Andrew Holmes
As I’ve been struggling to sleep recently, I whipped up some hippo pyjama shorts as a late-night project! I adapted the pattern from a previous issue of Sew. Kelly Louise Preece
My ‘Bianca’ coat is a Sew Me Something pattern. Wendy Parker
Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 19
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stay snug with our
AUTUMN FABRICS
1
We can’t wait to welcome crisp autumnal mornings – can you? Crunchy leaves, woodland walks and cosy pubs all call for a fresh wardrobe – and we have just the fabrics! Along with the weather comes an emphasis on gloriously rich shades such as burgundy, fawn and olive, on materials like soft knits and cosy cottons. For a punchy twist, why not blend traditional prints with our selection of metallic faux leathers?
1 2 3 4 5 6
3
2 Bargain
FABRIC BUY!
4
Rayon challis in autumn florals, £8.76 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk Faux leather in copper, £16.96 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk French terry in wine burgundy, £10.96 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk Cotton stretch in olive, £14.90 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk Faux leather in gold, £16.96 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk Faux leather in burgundy, £16.96 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk
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Create a show-stopping outfit with the
sew
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
sew a WRAP BLOUSE
NAOMI BLOUSE
Fasten your seatbelts, sewists, because we have the perfect make for testing your technical skills! This gorgeous wrap top by Julia Claridge requires working with darts, attaching a zip and preparing wrap ties. Not only that, but the blouse is super on-trend for autumn with its three-quarter length sleeves and front detail. Say hello to your new go-to top – you'll thank us later.
Get started
• Fabric, 1.7m (130cm) • Zip, 31cm • Lightweight interfacing
Sizes 8-22
Cutting guide Back: cut one pair Front: cut one on the fold Front neck facing: cut one Back neck facing: cut one pair Left tie: cut one Right tie: cut one
1
2
3
sew! 4
5
6
1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.
Project exclusive to
Download the template at sewmag.co.uk, print out and follow the cutting guide. Create darts in the front panel and, with right sides together, join the shoulders and neaten the raw edges. With right sides together, join the centre back to the notch, then neaten any raw edges. To attach the zip, press under the seam allowance on the right-hand side.
After understitching the neck facing, prepare the wrap ties. Straight stitch a row, 5mm from the raw edge, around the long sides. Turn and press at the stitch line, then turn again to form a narrow double-folded hem. Sew two rows of long gather stitches at the short end of each tie.
Press a little more than the allowance on the left-hand side. Pin the zip to the lefthand folded edge and stitch close to this edge using a zipper foot. Lap the folded edge on the left-hand side, over the zip teeth, matching the folded edge to the line of stitching. Tack the zip, feeling for the teeth as you go, then topstitch.
Pull the gather threads until the tie measures 12cm, then place the wrong side of the tie to the right side of the top at the side seams, matching the notches. Stitch the tie in place at your desired position then, with right sides together, join the side seams and neaten the raw edges.
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Apply interfacing to the neck facing and, with right sides together, join the front and back pieces at the shoulder seams, then neaten the outer edge of the facing by either overlocking or zig zag stitching the edge, turning a single 5mm hem. Pin and stitch the neck facing to the neck edge so it overhangs the zip edge by the seam allowance.
With right sides together, join the underarm seams and neaten the raw edges. Stitch two rows of ease stitches around the sleeve head, then match the underarm seams and notches before pinning the sleeve into the armhole, then neaten the raw edges. Slip-stitch the neck facing to the zip and turn a double-folded narrow hem.
sew DRESSMAKING
Core skill:
BLIND HEM STITCH Once the hem is double-folded and pressed, why not finish with a blind hem stitch? This stitch remains invisible once you join two pieces of fabric together. To start, pick the correct stitch for the fabric and line up the guide bar on the presser foot along the fold then sew. You will notice the needle jumping to the left every so often, don't worry, it is creating a pick – decrease the width if the needle picks up too much of the hem fold.
sew
SHOPPER GET THE LOOK! Trousers £22, missselfridge.com: Necklace £7.99, newlook.com
************************
COOL IN CAMELIA This Lady McElroy stretch viscose is what dreams are made of! Its lightweight and breathable feel is a necessity for autumn days, and we can't resist this floral version! £14 per metre, bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping! 23
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Get pleat perfect style with our
ROSALIE SKIRT
stitch a
PLEATED SKIRT Get started
• Fabric, 1.3m • Concealed zip, 22cm
Cutting guide
Front yoke: cut two on fold Back yoke: cut two on fold Front and back lower skirt: cut two based on your chosen measurements below
Sizes
Small: 68cm x 128cm Medium: 68cm x 131cm Large: 68cm x 133cm 1.5cm seam allowances used throughout.
1
Download, print and cut out the pattern from sewmag. co.uk. Position the pleat guide on the top edge of a folded lower skirt rectangle, then mark each position with a small clip and neaten the side edges. Repeat for the other lower skirt piece.
2
Using the guide, fold and pin four box pleats; the seam allowance should be showing on both edges beside the outer pleats. Machine-stitch across the top of each pleat to secure, then sew the darts to the two back yoke pieces: one will become the lining. Match the side seam on the front yoke to one of the back yokes, right sides together, and stitch. Repeat for the remaining pieces.
3
Open the seam allowances and press flat. Lay one set of yokes on top of the other, right sides together. Match the top waist edges, then
The weather may be getting chillier, but that’s no reason to pack away your skirts until the summertime – with boots in one hand and a leather jacket in the other, they can soon be transformed into a year-round staple! Why not get started with this chic design by Amanda Walker? It combines big and bold inverted pleats with a yoke waistband that’ll hug your curves in all the right places.
pin and sew. Press the seam allowances towards the lining yoke and understitch, starting and stopping 4cm from each end. Lay the pleated rectangles on top of each other, right sides together. Match the side edges, then pin and sew together, leaving a 9cm unstitched gap at the top of the left–hand side seam to insert a zip.
4
With the right side of the yoke and skirt facing, match the open end of the yoke to the gap in the side seam. Match the side seams of the yoke and skirt together, then around to the opposite end of the yoke and the open gap in the skirt. Pin, then stitch together.
5
To insert the concealed zip into the left-hand side seam, press the seam allowances of the skirt up towards the yoke. Fold in the seam allowance along the base of the lining yoke and position over the seam, across the top of the pleats. Pin in place, sandwiching the seam allowances inside the yoke. Fold in the seam allowance on each side of the zip, then slip-stitch the lining yoke to secure. Neaten around the base of the skirt, press up a 3cm hem, then secure in place. 24
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sew DRESSMAKING
Core skill:
UNDERSTITCHING Understitching is a line of sewing made on the inside of a garment around a neckline facing or, as in this project, the top of a yoke. The seam allowances of the two sewn pieces are pressed towards the yoke or facing, then a stitching line is made very close to the seam line on the right side of the fabric, through the facing or yoke and the seam allowances. This will help it to roll inside the garment, ensuring a clean smooth edge.
sew
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
sew
SHOPPER ************************
FABRIC LOVE This 100% cotton linen from Lady McElroy comes in a luscious, deep cranberry red, and the weight means it’s perfect for maximising the inverted pleat look. £15 per metre, threadheadfabrics.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping! 25
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Sewing with Tilly AUTUMN MEANS IT’S TIME TO GET TO GRIPS WITH CORDUROY
C
orduroy’s popularity is booming with the arrival of the new season, so now is the best time to master cutting and stitching this fashionalble fabric. The cotton and polyester blend has visible ribs running vertically down its lengthwise grain which adds gorgeous texture, but if you sew the fabric off-seam it can look glaringly obvious! Luckily, Tilly has pulled together top tricks to help you with your next corduroy project – pinafores, anyone?
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Run your hand along the corduroy ribs – it will feel smooth one way and rough the other, and will look slightly different from each direction. Decide which way you want the pile to lie, then cut all of the pieces in the same direction.
Lower the presser foot pressure and thread tension and lengthen the stitches to 3mm if you’re using a wide wale corduroy. To soften the impact of ironing, use a corduroy square as a pressing cloth and place it right sides together with the garment.
Ensure the grainline arrows are parallel to the fabric ribs. Cut out the fabric, right side facing up, so the ribs are visible, then line up the grainline arrow with the ribs. Repeat this with any fold lines and vertical edges.
To press, use steam when possible without touching the face of the iron to the fabric, and only press with the tip of the iron if you need to. Avoid pressing the edges of the seam allowances against the garment as they can indent the right side of the fabric.
Place the vertical seam pieces wrong sides together and line up the ribbed fold before refolding them right sides together along the pressed line, and iron. Topstitch the seams, right sides facing up, with the needle in line with the rib channel.
Fluff and threads can stick to corduroy, so keep a lint roller handy when sewing the fabric and wearing it afterwards. Finish the seam allowances with a zig zag stitch or an overlocker to prevent them from fraying, trimming off any loose threads if needed.
For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com 27
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Get the linen look with our
stitch a
MOLLY PINAFORE
CROSSBACK PINNY Get started
• Main fabric, 1.5m (140cm) • Contrast fabric, 25cm
Cutting guide
Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Side panels: cut one on the fold Pockets: cut one pair Straps: cut two Top facing: cut one on the fold Pocket lining: cut one pair, adding 2.5cm to the bottom edge
Sizes
8-20 0.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
1
Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk. Cut the pieces according to the cutting guide from the main fabric, excluding the pocket lining and pocket, which should be cut from a contrast print. Put the pockets and lining right sides together, sew across the top, then press the seam towards the lining. With right sides facing, measure 1cm from the seam onto the pocket lining, then fold to form a contrast trim at the top and press. Topstitch close to the seam on the right side.
2
With right sides together, align the bottom raw edge of the pouch with the pocket placement line on each side panel, ensuring the top faces towards the hem edge. Stitch to the side panel, 0.5cm from the pocket raw edge. Press up towards the top of the garment and pin in place at the sides, making sure the centre of the pocket at the top matches the middle of the side panel. Topstitch 1cm from the bottom seam and trim any excess fabric in line with the edge of the side panel.
3
To attach the side panels, place right sides together on each side of the front of the
Introducing the pretty and practical Molly pinny designed by mother and daughter duo Susan Posner and Naomi Posner-Coxon! Slip on for baking or transform this multi-purpose pinny into an everyday outfit by layering it over a cute top. Either way, this garment will boost your skillset with in-seam pockets, bias binding and facings. garment and stitch in place, then do the same with the back pieces. Neaten the seam edges and press to one side.
4
To make the straps, press each fabric strip in half lengthwise. Open out and press the edges towards the centre fold, then fold again, enclosing the raw edges. Press and stitch close to the fabric edge. With right sides together, place the straps level with the top of the pinny and the edge of the side panel seam, then secure in place.
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Pin the right strap to the left back of the pinny, 2.5cm from the back edge of the fabric, keeping the strap level with the garment top. Place the left strap to the right back in the same way to form a crossback. Try it on to make sure the straps are the right length, then stitch in place at the back and trim any excess fabric.
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For the top facing, press 1cm towards the wrong side of the fabric at the bottom edge of the facing. Place the facing right sides together, in line with the top of the pinny and the back edges over the top of the straps, matching the centre. Secure in place, taking a 0.5cm seam at the top and 2.5cm seam at the back edge. Trim the corner and any excess so that it lays flat. Fold the facing to the back of the pinny and press in place.
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Press the side edges 2.5cm towards the wrong side, then fold 1cm, enclosing the raw edges. Press the hem 5cm from the edge and fold, then press a further 1cm to enclose the raw edges. Fold the hem back on itself towards the right side, then sew 2.5cm away
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from the back edge towards the edge of the hem. Trim the corner and seam allowance, then fold the hem back in place and press. Stitch the hem, back edges and top facing close to the edge; the stitching line should be 10cm from the top of the pinny.
sew DRESSMAKING
Core skill:
BIAS BINDING To create your own narrow bias strips for finishing pockets, take a small square of fabric and cut several 3.2cm wide strips on the bias until they start becoming shorter. To join, place right sides together to create a 90-degree angle at the short end on the far-right side of the horizontal strip. Sew from the top-left corner to the bottom-left corner and snip the seam allowance.
sew
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Project exclusive to
sew!
sew
SHOPPER ************************
posnerandposner.co.uk
GORGEOUS GREYS A blend of grey linen and cotton fabric has been used to create this gorgeous multi-purpose pinny. ÂŁ7 per metre, abakhan.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping! 29
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sewing
SoS You asked, we listened – discover how to adjust any garment like a pro
Q
I need help with adding ease to a bodice block and side panel because every time I make an alteration, the underarm gapes.
Lisa Wood
Pat says
Underarm gaping can happen because the front armhole line is too long after you’ve added ease, or because the bust is pulling the armhole forward. The trick here is to transfer the excess fabric from the armhole and hide it in the side seam dart. Start by pinning the gaping fabric on the armhole, then transfer the pin marks onto the paper pattern. Draw a line from the marks – we’ll call them a1 and a2 – to the apex point and trim following the a1 line only, stopping just before the apex point. Now, draw a line from the top mark of the side seam dart (b1) to the apex point. If you don’t have a side seam dart, draw the line from anywhere in the side seam to the apex, then trim along the drawn line, stopping just before the apex point. Rotate the paper piece between the armhole gap and the side seam dart so that the a1 and a2 lines overlap – this will make the side seam dart bigger. Finally, align your pattern and test it on your chosen fabric.
Top, £16, evans.co.uk
Q
Standard pattern straps are often too large across my shoulders but the garment fits everywhere else. I’ve tried taking away some of the material, but it doesn’t look right – please help! Ada Markham
Alison says
Floral dress, £30 dorothy perkins .com
Blue floral swing top, £30, evans.co.uk
It’s great that you get a good fit in most areas, but slippy shoulder straps can be a real pain! The good news is that this issue is super easy to correct if you’re making a dress where the strap is a separate pattern piece. Before you attach the facing or lining to the bodice, try on the dress and tack the straps in place, then adjust until you feel secure. Sew in place and attach facing to finish. When adjusting a strap that’s attached to the bodice pattern pieces, you should adapt it on the pattern before you cut the fabric. To do this, make up a toile and pinch out a small triangle where the strap meets the bodice – this ensures that the strap hits your shoulder at the correct point. Repeat on the front and the back. Transfer the same triangle onto the pattern pieces by marking the fabric and laying it over the piece. Fold the triangle out of the paper pattern and tape it down, then redraw the pattern edges into smooth lines. I hope this helps you on your mission for snug shoulder straps!
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Green dress, £42, mandco.com
here to
help
PAT BRAVO
ALISON GREER
artgalleryfabrics.com
bagladybird.wordpress .com
Alison manages BagLadyBird, an online sewing community and Yorkshire dressmaking school which aims to develop stitchers’ skills.
The Creative Director of Art Gallery Fabrics believes everybody is born to do something in life, and getting crafty with material is what Pat loves to do.
Q
The fitted dress I’m attempting to stitch has bust and waist darts, making it a nightmare to spot where adjustments are needed. Any advice?
Audrey White
Lisa says
With a fitted bodice, there are a few key things to look out for. Firstly, choose the size that best corresponds with your measurements and sew a quick toile; I like to draw the seam allowances directly onto the toile. You don’t need to include facings, but remember to staystitch the neckline edges. Ask someone to pin you in directly on the seam allowance line, or alternatively, insert a zip. The main thing to check for is whether the bodice hits your natural waistline and fits comfortably. If the bodice is too long or short, note the amount you need to adjust it by and make this change to the paper pattern. If it’s too big or small, try sewing another toile in a size smaller or larger, then check the fit again. Another point to look out for is whether the bust fits properly. If the waist fits correctly but the bust is too loose, you need to make a small bust adjustment. However, if the bodice is straining or gaping open at the armholes, you need to make a full bust adjustment.
tip! The Curvy Sewing Collective website is excellent for small and full bust adjustment tutorials. Create Lisa’s Grace dress in her online sewing class, £40, sewoverit.co.uk
LISA COMFORT
This Yorkshire-born stitcher is a fan of all things vintage and DIY, and she also runs Sew Over It: an online and London-based sewing company.
top 4 sewoverit.co.uk
AUTUMNAL FABRICS Whatever fabulous garment you’re planning to make, you can always count on Art Gallery Fabrics to provide the perfect material! Below are some of our favourite designs from its new collection.
Autumnal hues
Acorns & Pinecones, Mint
A firm favourite
Pressed Ablossom Auburn
Fantastic florals Autumn Nectar Honey
Roasty reds Acorns & Pinecones, Pecans
ALL MATERIALS ARE FROM ART GALLERY FABRICS, STARTING FROM £15 PER METRE – VISIT ARTGALLERYFABRICS.COM FOR STOCKISTS.
Got a stitchy question for us? Email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk or message us at facebook.com/sewhq and we’ll do our best to answer it! 31
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A quick cuppa with...
FRITHA VINCENT
Meet the stitcher who is empowering women, one pillow at a time
UNFOLD THE POWER
Since 2014, Secret Projects has trained over 500 Indian women to make charming products such as the Secret Pillow and the Secret Sari – a pouch that transforms into a beach dress. The women are paid over twice the minimum wage, allowing them to gain financial independence and security for themselves and their family. The Secret Projects founder recalls an inspiring story of a young woman who was empowered by the enterprise: “She was only
Cycle of empowerment: Fritha with Peace Valley Maker Network in Kerala
Cushion overload! Fritha with her Secret Pillows
© Julia Neal
F
ormer charity fundraiser, Fritha Vincent first started to create ‘secret pillows’ – cushions made in brightly coloured cotton that unfold into blankets – for her newly-wed friends. Little did she know they would be transforming the lives of hundreds of women across India only a week later... “I was travelling across India with a charity when I met a group of women in Wayanad. These girls were all trained sewers, but were making a living from layering flowers together for people to offer to Hindu gods. Eyeing a sewing machine, I asked them why they didn’t buy some fabric and make something instead? At this, the women lit up and said they’d love to, but they didn’t feel there was a market for it.” It was at this moment that Fritha had an epiphany; she realised she could teach the women how to create her pillow design and she would help them sell it on the international market. As a result, Secret Projects was born!
Words by Laura Wybrow
23 years old when I met her, and was brought up in an urban slum so the economic challenges she faced prevented her from flourishing. Today, she’s one of our most valued product managers and trainers! Not only has her life massively improved, but she’s also impacting the lives of others. This means so many women are granted the opportunities they need – it really is a cycle of empowerment.”
“So many women are granted the opportunities they need – it really is a cycle of empowerment” Fritha’s incredible enterprise has already translated into some astounding achievements. This year, she won the Prix Clarins Award which recognises inspirational women who improve the lives of the next generation. Fritha was over the moon with the award, and explains to us how the prize money will be used for Secret Projects: “I plan to set up a ‘Prevention Through Production’ programme in West Bengal. We’ll be working with vulnerable women who, by earning money through Secret Projects, will be protected from traffickers. We’re excited to say that the Secret Sari will be the main product of this project!”
OVER TO YOU
If you were shopping in Camden this July, you might have spotted Fritha showcasing Secret Projects makes in a pop-up shop. “One of my sale strategies is to collaborate with other ethical sellers, so we can learn each other’s creative and quirky ways and, eventually have a bigger impact on the world. In the shop, we had all of our products on show, including Secret Projects’ new mini skirts, shrugs and lungis.” However, it was the Secret Sari that remained a firm favourite in the heatwave: “People wanted to get changed into it right away!” laughs Fritha. Visiting the pop-up store isn’t the only way you can get involved with the organisation. Start by checking out the website at secretprojects.org and follow on Instagram @secret.projects. With a customer trip on the horizon, you never know, you could find yourself joining Fritha on her next South India trip!
Use code sew18 for 20% OFF at secretprojects.org 32
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Suppliers of mail order fabrics for over 40 years we source beautiful fabrics from Britain, Europe and rest of the world.
www.gillybee.co.uk • Gorgeous fabrics and sewing supplies for quilters, dressmakers and crafters. • Great customer service with buckets of inspiration & advice. • Stylecraft yarns and patterns. Toft Amigurumi kits and workshops. • Sewing workshops, GillyBee Absolute Beginners Dressmaking course & Sewing Café.
Use code SEW1018 for a 10% discount online and in the shop with this advert. Sign up to our newsletter for latest news & offers. Visit our shop to join our loyalty scheme. Shop open Tues-Sat 9.00-5.30 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall, Norwich NR13 5QY Tel: 01603 716140 Located just outside Norwich a stone’s throw from the A47/Broadland Northway junction. We offer free parking next to the shop. 33
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S T FR O M I N
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Juliette Skirt by Ready to Sew
SIZE S
Difficulty: 18 6-
Proenza Schouler pencil skirts are contemporised by cuts, seaming and topstitching to create an optical illusion that highlights your body shape. The high-waisted, A-line shape of the Juliette skirt delivers
SIZ
asymmetric design with a modern twist. The skirt hits just above the knee and is fully lined with a centre back zip. Be experimental and sew with denim and colourful topstitching.” From £7.50, readytosew.fr
E S
8-2 0
Cleo Blouse and Dress
Paper
by Schnittchen Patterns
L200 Bomber Jacket
Difficulty: I love it when a pattern has multiple views, and this design fits perfectly with Proenza’s reputation for modern interpretations of feminine silhouettes. Make it casual or dressy with floral prints, or go fluid with a mid-length dress version in crepe. If you decide to sew the blouse, wear it without the bow, half tucked into pleated wide trousers. Pick one of Proenza Schouler’s signature palettes of blue, white and ecru to tie it all into a capsule wardrobe.”
by DP Studio Difficulty:
A perfect example of the atelier-crafted, coutureinspired design synonymous with Proenza Schouler, DP studio is a French company that offers printed patterns for the contemporary consumer. This classic bomber jacket is transformed by sporty elements, loose-fitting, finishing touches and a raglan sleeve style. Try sewing with geometric fabrics for the Proenza look!”
From £7, schnittchen.com
From £15, dpstudio-fashion.com 34
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sew DRESSMAKING
Notes from Rachel
Bruges Trousers by Orageuse Difficulty: Perfect tailoring is one of Proenza Schouler’s calling cards, and this trouser pattern features a soft silhouette. The high-waist, pin-tucked pleats and double button waistband design make this much more directional than classic-shaped trousers. It can be styled for so many occasions depending on your fabric choice. Why not pick a warm marigold fabric to instantly lift your outfit? Alternatively, sew it as a cropped length and wear it with peep-toe ankle boots.”
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SIZES 6 -1
From £7.50, orageuse.com
“Proenza Schuoler’s design playfulness translates into unsusual silhouettes and unexpected volume”
TRIED & TESTED by Rachel
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4-3
0
Eliane Jumpsuit by Style Arc Difficulty: Proenza’s cool down-town girl full of architectural references, and the dichotomy of soft and hard tailoring inspired me to adapt my own collaboration with Style Arc. By changing the sleeves, playing with the volume of the trousers and removing the side zip, I definitely think I achieved a minimalist silhouette offset with the bold choice of print!” From £10, etsy.com
Follow Rachel on Instagram @houseofpinheiro 35
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Design duo Proenza Schouler is renowned for turning classic designs into young and fresh sold-out garments. Its urban aesthetic draws inspiration from contemporary art and an obsession for fabric technology. The style is a mix of youth culture, futuristic concepts and old-school craftmanship. I really love the approach to tailoring as the design playfulness translates into unusual silhouettes and unexpected volume. Many famous designers have been inspired by the approach and 15 years of past collections, including Stella McCartney, who is now recognised by her soft tailoring which has been a huge part of Proenza’s repertoire.”
Rachel Pinheiro houseofpinheiro.com
Lauren Guthrie’s
M
TOP TOOLS for measuring and marking
easuring and marking accurately as you move through the steps of creating your garment can make things much easier, and will give you a polished, professional finish. Things have certainly moved on since the days of a traditional tailor’s chalk block, and although that still has a place, there are oodles more handy items to help make your stitching a breeze!
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1
2 5
3 1 CHALK PENCILS
These Clover chalk pencils are great as an alternative to tailor’s tacks for markings, such as turning points when sewing in a fly front in a pair of trousers. They come in a variety of colours and there’s a handy sharpener in the pack, too. £7.95, guthrie-ghani.co.uk
2 ALUMINIUM SEAM GAUGE
This tool is a dressmaking must-have! It’s great for marking hems or seam allowances on curved areas when pressing. As it’s aluminium, it won’t melt or distort with the heat of the iron either – even better! From £1.70, for stockists visit prym.com
3 MINI SCISSORS
At the edge of pattern pieces you will often see notches – these are important when you pair sections of your garment together. I prefer to cut a small slit in the fabric. Use the tip of your scissors to keep the slit within the seam allowance. £13.40, guthrie-ghani.co.uk 36
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4 CHACO LINER PEN
Clover chalk markers are ideal for creating a crisp fine line, which can be useful for marking, cutting and stitching lines. The little wheel in the nib of the marker turns as you use it, dispensing a line of chalk. The cartridges are replaceable, too. £7.95, guthrie-ghani.co.uk
5 NEEDLE AND THREAD
When marking areas such as the points of darts, I like to use a needle and thread to make a quick tailor’s tack. This is a loose stitch in the fabric that has long thread tails so you can easily see it during later stages of construction.
YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Stitching with knits 3 Making in-seam pockets 3 Creating a neckband
sew masterclass
Reach new heights with the
sew DRESSMAKING
Project exclusive to
sew!
DAPHNE DRESS It’s official – every capsule wardrobe must contain a simple throw-on dress! This chic but comfy jersey number brings together a flattering cowl neck, with long cuffed sleeves and in-seam side pockets. The trapeze shape offers a flattering silhouette that flairs out over your form for an easy, breezy style to see you through the season.
Get started
• Fabric, 2.4m (140cm)
Sizes 8-18
Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Neckband: cut one on the fold Back: cut two (one on the fold) Sleeve: cut two (one on the fold) Pocket: cut two pairs 1.5cm seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
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stitch a TRAPEZE DRESS Sewing the front and back pieces
Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING l Visit sewmag.co.uk/ templates to download and print the pattern, then transfer any markings onto your fabric. l When stitching with knits, remember to insert a jersey needle in your machine and use a triple stretch stitch setting or a small zig zag stitch for best results. l Knitted jersey will often have edges that tend to curl, which can make it harder to sew. To keep it flat, use a starchy spray and gently press the edges. l At the cutting stage, nick the notches indicated on the sleeve pattern pieces. This will indicate the back section on the sleeve head.
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Sew the back pieces together at the centre-back edge, right sides together. Finish the raw edge and press. With right sides together, pin and stitch one pocket at the side edges, as shown on the template.
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Press the pocket away from the body, then topstitch on the pocket side, 4mm from the seamline. Sew the front to the back at the shoulder seams, right sides together, and finish the raw edges.
Carefully press the seams towards the back. Pin and stitch the front to the back at the side edges, below the armhole and around the pocket, right sides together. Once you've finished, gently press.
Making the sleeves
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Sew and press, then fold the cuff in half, aligning the raw edges with wrong sides together. Pin to the sleeve at the lower raw edge, right sides together. Hand-tack, then sew. Finish the raw edge, press and repeat for the other sleeve.
Fold the sleeve right sides together, matching the side edges. Stitch at the side edge, then finish the raw edges and press. Fold the cuff piece in half widthways, right sides together, aligning the short edges.
Pin the sleeve head to the dress at the armhole, aligning the cross seams. Ensure the back section of the sleeve is carefully aligned to the back of the dress loosely. Hand tack, then sew around the armhole, taking care not to catch any folds as you go.
Making the neckband
If you wish to create a round-neck design instead, simply omit the cowl neck
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Remove the tacking, finish the raw edges of the armhole and press. Fold the neckband in half widthways, right sides together, matching the short side edges. Sew together to make a ring, then finish the raw edges and press.
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Carefully fold the neck band ring in half, aligning the raw edges with wrong sides together. Pin at the right side of the neck raw edge, aligning the seam of the neckband with the centre-back seam. Once finished, gently press.
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9
Hand tack and stitch, finish the raw edges and press, then fold the neckband over. Finish the raw edge of the lower hem of the dress, then make a single fold 2cm hem, or adjust the length as required.
sew DRESSMAKING
Core Skill:
MATCHING HEADBAND
Cut a fabric strip, 24cm x 57cm. Fold in half, right sides together, aligning the long raw edges. Sew along the long edge only and turn inside out. Press the aligning seam to the centre of the band. With seam outermost, pin the short raw edges together, sew and finish the raw edge. Pin edges together at the join, then hand-stitch 2cm on each side of the seam at the folded edge to conceal the end one. Turn through to the right side.
sew
free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates
sew
SHOPPER *********************
ARTISAN ALLURE Get this gorgeous, distressed navy style with Art Gallery Fabrics Artisan Aged Allure. ÂŁ22.50 per metre, dragonflyfabrics.co.uk *********************** thank you for shopping!
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HAVE YOUR SAY AT SEWMAG.CO.UK/AWARDS *
H VOTE FOR
H
YOUR SEWING FAVOURITES!
H
Y
ou’ve been nominating your go-tos from sewing machines to independent stores, and after totting up the scores, we’re thrilled to reveal the leading lights you’ve been loving and using over. Why not show your support and vote for your winners in each category? You can post the form below or head over to sewmag. co.uk/awards to vote. There’s fantastic prizes worth £1,700 from Create and Craft up for grabs, too!
This year, we’re delighted to welcome a panel of expert judges to the British Sewing Awards. Each personality will be invited to choose a winner in one category, relevant to their individual expertise.
Place your votes... FAVE SEWING MACHINES
Entry-level sewing machine � Bernina � Brother � Janome � Pfaff � Singer All-round sewing machine � Bernina � Brother � Janome � Pfaff � Singer
Quilting sewing machine � Bernina � Brother � Janome � Pfaff � Singer Embroidery sewing machine � Bernina � Brother � Husqvarna � Janome � Singer Overlocker sewing machine
� Baby Lock � Bernina
� Brother � Janome � Singer Top-spec sewing machine
� Bernina � Brother � Janome � Pfaff � Singer
BEST INDEPENDENT RETAILERS
Wales � J & B Sewing Machines, Cardiff
� Calico Kate, Lampeter � Lee Mill Fabrics, Swansea � Wheeler Fabrics, Machynlleth � White Gecko Craft Lounge, Dinas Powys
Ireland � CLOTH, Dublin � Sew Unique Fabrics, Bangor � Fiddlesticks Fabrics, Ballymena � Windmill Fabrics, Saintfield Co Down � Love Stitching, Annahilt Scotland
� Buttons and Blethers, Dunfermline � Kaleidoscope, Glasgow
OUR JUDGING PANEL Each judge will pick a winner from the categories, highlighted in yellow
FRANCES TOBIN
Independent pattern designer and founder of The Maker’s Atelier.
HANNAH READ-BALDREY
STUART HILLARD
Stylist, keen Instagrammer and best-selling author of Flowerbomb!
The Great British Sewing Bee star and regular Sew columnist. 40
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WAYNE HEMINGWAY MBE
Award-winning designer and founding member of The Festival of Making.
HAVE YOUR SAY AT SEWMAG.CO.UK/AWARDS * � Mandors Fabric Store, Glasgow � No.29, Fochabers � The Peacock and the Tortoise, Perth North of England � BST Fabrics, South Shields � Dolly's Haberdashery & Sewing School, Warrington � Leven Crafts, Guisborough � Oh Sew Sweet Shop @ The Hut, Wombwell � Sewcute Fabrics, Doncaster South of England
� Crafty Baba, Ipswich � Eclectic Maker, Worthing � Fabric HQ, Stoke Mandeville � Lady Sew and Sew, Henley-on-Thames � Sewisfaction, Wokingham Midlands
� The Cotton Patch, Birmingham � Crafty Sew & So, Leicester � Guthrie & Ghani, Birmingham � Hollies Haberdashery, Newcastle under-Lyme � The Sewing Cafe, Hinckley
PRODUCTS
Best new product for 2018 Cricut Easy Press Korbond House of Textures range Vlieseline Stretch Fix Tape Sew Easy Foldable Mat Hantex Organic Sewing Thread Best thread brand � Mettler � Madeira � Gütermann � DMC � Threaders by Crafter's Companion Best fabric brand Lewis & Irene Stoff & Stil Lady McElroy Art Gallery Fabrics Liberty London Best major pattern house � Simplicity � New Look � Butterick � Vogue � McCall's Best independent pattern house � Jennifer Lauren Handmade � Closet Case Patterns � Sew Over It � Tilly and the Buttons � Crafty Sew & So
Sewing with Knitted Fabrics – Wendy Ward Sew Your Own Active Wear – Melissa Fehr
Best sewing software brand � Husqvarna � Fittingly Sew (Soft Byte) � Brother � Bernina � Viking � Pfaff � Singer � Janome
Top sewing workshops/courses � Ministry of Craft � GillyBee Designs � The Sewing Cafe � Crafty Sew and So � Craftsy
Best fabric cutting machine
Best exhibition/event
� AccuQuilt GO! � Gemini by Crafter’s Companion � Brother ScanNcut � Silhouette Cameo � Cricut Maker
� The Knitting and Stitching Show � Festival of Quilts � The Creative Craft Show � Stitching, Sewing and
Best UK chain
� Craft4Crafters
Hobbycrafts, ExCel
� Hobbycraft � The Range � John Lewis � Sew Over It � Abakhan Fabrics
Most outstanding Sew Saturday event 2017 � Calico Kate � Sew Creative � Sew Busy � Gather N Sew � Sewing Room � Sewing Machines Direct
ONLINE
Best online retailer � Minerva Crafts � Create and Craft � Online Fabrics � Girl Charlee � Sew Box
YOUR DETAILS Title................Forename.......................... Surname......................................................
Best sewing blog
In association with
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Once you've voted, you'll be entered to win one of five fabulous prizes, worth £1,700!
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• A day at Create and Craft with one of its sewing experts • A Butterick EB6100 computerised machine • A sewing bundle worth more than £500 • A computerised Singer model • Plus £100 credited to your Create and Craft account
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Address........................................................
� The Fold Line � Rachel Pinheiro � Tilly and the Buttons � Mimi G � Lucky Lucille
......................................................................... Postcode...................................................... Tel number................................................... Email..............................................................
Best Instagram Rachel Pinheiro – @houseofpinheiro Tilly Walnes – @tillybuttons Lisa Comfort – @sewoveritlondon Art Gallery Fabrics – @artgalleryfabrics Portia Lawrie – @portialawrie
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CLOSING DATE: 15th November 2018 FOR VOTES TERMS & CONDITIONS: All entries will be entered into the prize draw which is open to all UK residents aged 18 or over, excluding employees or agents of the associated companies and their families. Only one entry per person. The prizes are a day at Create & Craft with one of its sewing experts , £100 credited to your account, plus a Butterick and Singer sewing machine and a sewing bundle worth over £500. These cannot be exchanged for cash, or replaced with any other item. Illegible entries and those that do not abide by these terms and conditions will be disqualified. No responsibility will be held for entries lost, delayed or damaged. At Aceville we don’t do spam. We want to keep in touch, but only if you want to hear from us. So we can let you know about what’s going, including our great offers and special deals please agree to receiving emails from us by ticking this box � We promise we won't share your information with anyone else and you can manage what we send you at any time by following the link to our preference center at the bottom of any of our emails. Entries will be selected at random within 28 days of the closing date. No correspondence will be entered into. CLOSING DATE: 15th November 2018. Winner will be notified by post, phone or email. The winners’ names will be available on request from Zoe Charge, 21/23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY.
RESOURCES & ACTIVITIES Most inspirational sewing personality � Debbie Shore � Stuart Hillard � Lauren Guthrie � Tilly Walnes � Lisa Comfort
Favourite sewing book 2017-18 Tilda Sunshine Sewing – Tone Finnager Half Yard Bags and Purses – Debbie Shore Stretch – Tilly and the Buttons
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Anuschka has filled her capsule collection with her favourite colours – orange and yellow
The capsule collection
Blogger and author, Anuschka Rees gives her advice on how to reduce your fashion footprint by creating a capsule closet: “My recent book, The Curated Closet is based on my own journey from fast-fashion addict to proud owner of a tiny, but ultra-personalised wardrobe. It gives you a roadmap for the whole process, from finding your personal style and structuring your wardrobe, to learning how to shop in a more strategic way. Although I don’t sew, the book has been popular among the stitching community, as people have used these techniques to stitch their own long-lasting capsule wardrobe, which is a step towards a much-needed eco-friendly alternative.
Fashioned by
nature! When it comes to your wardrobe, going green is the new black! Words by Sophie Demetriades
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tep aside throw-away fashion, brands and consumers alike are calling for an eco revolution! The 2018 Pulse of the Fashion Industry report showed that 75 percent of companies have made efforts to improve their environmental performance, with pioneers such as Stella McCartney leading the way. However, despite the demand for greener goods, still only one percent of fashion is recycled. Why? It’s because most of us are unsure of how to recondition our
Follow on Instagram @anuschkarees or her website at anuschkarees. com
“My advice for anyone who wants an easy, mix and match closet is to spend time honing in on your personal style. What type of colours, fabrics, silhouettes and details are you naturally drawn to? What outfits make you feel confident and inspired? Once you’ve figured out your style it will be much easier to map out a capsule closet that’s versatile. Another great trick is to come up with an outfit formula; for example, skinny jeans, loafers and a loose-fitting blazer, then stock your wardrobe with a few different versions of each component.
Making
a change
Alice Synge, founder of fabric and haberdashery haven Backstitch, explains how the company made the move to plastic-free packaging: “As a society, it seems we’ve been conscious of throw-away fashion for some time, but it’s only recently we’ve realised that we need to make bigger and quicker changes; the recent wave of eco awareness or as some call it, ‘The Blue Planet effect’, has certainly been a catalyst for this.
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clothes, and aren’t clear on processes such as ‘cradle-to-cradle’ fashion and ‘circular design’ – buzzwords which refer to longlasting, recycled garments. As a society, we’re becoming more mindful of sustainable fashion, and there’s no better time to take pressure off our planet. That’s why we chatted to four experts who told us what they’re doing to encourage eco-friendly fashion, plus gave their top advice on how to stitch a greener wardrobe. “At Backstitch, our solution has started with packaging: we now only use brown paper and brown paper tape rather than plastic, which is fit-for-purpose and environmentally sound.” Alice tells Sew her top tips for reducing our fashion footprint: “I think that the more experienced you are at sewing, the more economical you become with your materials and garment choices. Many new dressmakers will make the mistake of sewing garments they never wear, but I advise customers to think about the items of clothing they already love and try to stitch something similar. For me personally, I have a uniform of jeans, t-shirts and jumpers, so I consider the type of garment and fabric choices before I take the plunge. “Your haberdashery is crucial to making a long-lasting wardrobe, too. There’s no point sewing with a great fabric but using old, cheap thread, so ensure you use the right components.”
Check out the store at backstitch.co.uk
Sustaining slow fashion
Rachel Hart, owner of London-based fabric house Ray Stitch, tells Sew about what we should consider when buying and making our clothes: “Recycling the end product is great, but many people don’t consider what to do with the leftover fabric scraps from cutting and toiles. That’s why here at Ray Stitch we send all of our material offcuts to textile recycling company, First Mile – so if you have any scraps you can’t donate to a quilter friend, then send them here!”
The eco-friendly Lena Dress, £55, whitestuff.com
“We’ll be stocking recycled fabrics very soon – watch this space!” Rachel, founder of Ray Stitch, raystitch.co.uk
Aside from fabric, other important points to consider when making clothes include labelling and construction methods. Rachel explains: “Creating a long-lasting garment is much healthier for the environment, so for example, make your outerwear stand the test of time by using binding as well as taped and felled seams – this ensures that the material won’t strain with movement, making it less likely to break. “Creating your own clothes means that they won’t have any traceability unless you supply the information. By giving as much detail as possible about the fabrics and components used, you can show the next wearer or recycling factory exactly what went into creating the garment, making it easier for them to repurpose.”
A passion for
refashion
Blogger and winner of Dressmaker of the Year 2016, Portia Lawrie is a selfproclaimed ‘thrifter’ when it comes to upcycling her clothes. That’s why she set up The Refashioners, an event which challenges the sewing community to repurpose unwanted clothing and share their makes online to be in with a chance of winning an amazing prize. Sew gets the low-down on what to expect this year: “Last year’s refashioning theme was suits, but this year we’re flipping the whole idea on its head! Rather than starting with a specific garment and working out what to do with it, we’re asking people to decide what they want to make first. The challenge will be to recreate that outfit using only secondhand clothing, with an aim to encourage people to look at old clothes as sources of inspiration and creativity.” When refashioning her closet, Portia likes to make sure it stands the test of time: “My main goal is to create a functional, long-lasting wardrobe. It’s as much about the longevity and wearability of a garment which
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primark.co.uk
Ray Stitch are always on the look-out for eco-friendly shops and events, too. Rachel says: “The Sustainable Angle Future Fabrics Expo held annually in London is well worth a visit! At the event, you can see a range of unusual recycled and natural materials, such as polyester, hemp, pineapple, bamboo, mushroom leather and seaweed cloth – the possibilities are endless! “We also run events at Ray Stitch where we invite inspiring shop owners to talk about slow fashion. Amongst others, we’ve had Birdsong, an East London fashion brand who use local women’s community groups to make capsule collections from organic cotton and reclaimed fabric; Daniel from the London Cloth Co. who weaves beautiful fabric in the UK; and Henri from Henri London, a fashion designer who works with Fairtrade producers in India to supply organic cotton for beautiful shirts.” makes it eco-friendly as well as the materials and processes used to make it. Don’t be in a rush to churn out several pieces at once either; one item sewn well can take about a month, which is better than three a week which you won’t wear. Equally, if there’s a garment in your wardrobe which you don’t use, figure out why and fix it by adjusting the fit, mending the damage or refashioning it! “One of my worst habits is not being economical with the way I cut pattern pieces from fabric – this is definitely something you should consider when making clothes to reduce material waste.”
For more information about The Refashioners 2018, visit Portia’s blog at makery.co.uk
The Refashioners 2017 entry from a Tweed & Greet blogger
The Make It Room, Essex Visit themakeitroom.co.uk SEPT
Create a Footstool
&learn
Stitch
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WED
Adorn your home with a colourful foot rest! This class will take around two to three hours in which you’ll discover how to create patchwork and add buttons. The session requires you to bring along six fat quarters of your choice, but if you’re not sure which type of materials to take, then fear not as The Make It Room is on-hand to help; simply contact owner Lynne Sharpe via the website. Price: £55
SEPT
Clasp Clutch Bag
Be ready to dance the night away in style at your Christmas party by making yourself a gorgeous clutch. With this class, you’ll WED be taught how to line the inside of your bag and attach a clasp. All you need for this workshop is two pieces of your favourite fabric in coordinating or contrasting colours (fat quarters are a great choice), and The Make It Room will provide the rest! Price: £30
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Develop your stitchy skillset with this month’s workshops
The London Loom, London Visit thelondonloom.com SEPT
Tapestry Weaving
With over 400 yarns to play with, from neon eyelash to Japanese pom-pom, WED you’ll be spoilt for choice in this beginners tapestry workshop. You’ll learn how to dress your loom and create your first rows of plain weave, as well as discovering how to use the beautiful soumac stitch and the tabby weave to make shapes and curves. Price: £65
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OCT
6
SAT
Appliqué Pictures Looking for ways to use up the rest of your leftover fabric scraps? Search no further! Turn your hand to creating pretty appliqué pictures by either machine- or hand-sewing with the materials you love most. If you’re stuck for design ideas, then don’t worry, The Make It Room have plenty of layout ideas to get your creative juices flowing! Price: £25
SEPT
Songstress Stitching
Immortalise your favourite singers using needle and thread! During this class, WED you will learn embroidery techniques so you can decorate your favourite female musician – think Madonna, Cyndi Lauper and Beyonce! This relaxed workshop allows you to have free rein when choosing how to embellish your superstars, and is perfect for both beginner and professional sewers alike. Price: £30
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sew PROMOTION
Crafty Sew and So, Leicester
DEC
Whether you’re new to sewing or at a more advanced level, this workshop is perfect for SAT all crafters! The class is run by experts from Ragged Life, and includes a half-day session on how to create any upcycling project using fabric scraps. In the class, you’ll learn how to use the rag rug technique and create a beautiful wreath for Christmas, too! Price: £70
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Visit craftysewandso.com OCT
Rag Rug Wreath
Jersey Circle Skirt
Want to get to grips with stretchy material? Or simply need to brush up on your knit SAT fabric stitching skills? Head along to this full circle jersey skirt masterclass! In this workshop, you’ll find out how to use a pattern-free cutting approach, while learning to overlock seams and insert a comfy elastic waistband into a skirt. Price: £50
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SEPT
Dressmaking to Fit
On this six-week course, you’ll be able to select a paper pattern of your choice from the Crafty Sew WED and So range, and will learn how to measure yourself correctly, adjust the pattern to your size and create a beautiful dress, top, skirt or pair of trousers. This is an ideal way to perfect your sewing techniques, with tutorials on everything from pleats and darts, to hems and fastenings. Price: £140
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Fashion and Textile Museum, London
SEP
Want to sharpen up your drawing skills? Or learn to create your own design SAT for your next stitchy project? Look no further! This practical class will teach you all the tricks you need, including tips from the museum’s bestselling books How to Draw Like a Fashion Designer and How to Draw Vintage Fashion by Celia Joicey and Dennis Nothdruft. Price: £10
Visit ftmlondon.org OCT
Draw like a Designer
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Couture Techniques
Boost your confidence when working with silky fabrics in this workshop led by Zandra Rhodes’ SAT dressmaker, Jolanta Cerniauskiene. You’ll be taught techniques, such as creating French seams, machine-rolled hems, bias cut binding, button loops and satin stitch, to name a few. After the class, you can keep the samples for each technique so you can always refer back to them when making at home. Price: £95
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Pattern Cutting Introduction
Get your fabric scissors ready for this two-day workshop on the WED rules of pattern cutting. This course teaches you how to fit adjustments, darts, pivots, pleats and so much more! During the class, you will be taught by expert pattern maker Michelle Lewis, who has worked with fashion labels, including Alexander McQueen and Zandra Rhodes. Price: £160 45
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Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL
CREATING DARTS
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starting off
Transfer the dart points from the pattern onto the material with a fabric marking tool or tailor’s tacks.
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press aside
stitch & curve
Sew at the edge of the fabric following the markings and gently curve the stitch line near the point.
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Press the dart to one side – the direction you need to press towards will be in the pattern instructions.
Have you ever made a garment from a pattern, but found that you need to adjust the darts or add some in to give it shape? Well, this tutorial is for you! To put it simply, darts are folded wedges of fabric which taper to a point to create a flattering fit. There are different types of darts: the single-pointed is usually used at the side of the bust in a dress or blouse, or in the waist of a shirt or a pair of trousers, while the double-pointed gives shape to the centre of a garment, such as a dress or jacket.WW
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double-pointed
For a double-pointed version, transfer the markings from the pattern in the same way, then sew the dart in the centre, tapering to the points.
TACKING TIP
A quick way to secure the thread ends is to turn the work around and machine-sew a few stitches into the dart.
For more great tips from Debbie, visit halfyardsewingclub.com 46
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CELEBRATE DAY OF THE DEAD WITH
Susie Johns’ Get started • White cotton, 34cm x 75cm • Contrast lining, 34cm x 75cm • Lightweight wadding • Erasable fabric marker • Embroidery hoop • Embroidery thread, six strands: grey, orange, yellow, turquoise, lime green, pink • Embroidery needle • Cotton herringbone tape, 15mm x 1.2m
TOTE BAG
As the name suggests, stem stitch is the traditional choice for sewing stems. Also known as crewel or stalk, this is one of the most common and useful of the basic embroidery stitches. Its main use is for embroidering lines – not just straight ones but curves and angles, too.
If only a section of the embroidery design fits within the hoop: work on this section, then move to another
Use a 1cm seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
Size 32cm x 36cm
Embroider the skull motif
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Download the template at sewmag. co.uk and print out. Take main fabric, 34cm x 75cm, and fold in half, then trace the skull motif onto the top half; this will form the front of the bag. Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop. The entire design is worked in stem stitch. Thread an embroidery needle with two strands of sixstrand thread in grey, and embroider the outline of the skull, eyes, nose, moustache and teeth. Embroider along the other lines of the motif using a variety of colours. You can refer to the picture of the finished embroidery as a guide, or experiment with your own combinations.
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Make the bag
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Take lining, 34cm x 75cm, and wadding, 32cm x 73cm. Place the wadding centrally on the wrong side of the lining fabric and tack in place. Fold the main part of the bag in half, right sides together, then stitch the side seams and clip the corners. Repeat for the lining. Turn the main bag right side out. Fold under 15mm on the top edge of the bag and the lining, then tack. Cut the cotton tape in half to create two 60cm lengths. Pin the ends of each length to the top of the bag to form handles. Slip the lining inside the bag, align the seams and pin. Tack the top edges of the bag and lining together, sandwiching the ends of the handles between the layers. Topstitch 3mm from the bag.
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“A cloth tote is such a practical item, and the perfect alternative to a plastic carrier bag. Fold it up small and tuck it into your handbag or pocket for when you go shopping” Susie Johns, Sew designer
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Stem Stitch
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Draw a line on the fabric as a guide using an erasable marker. You can use any kind of thread to create this stitch.
Project exclusive to
sew!
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Start to work from left to right. Bring the needle up through the fabric at the beginning of the line and down to the right, a stitch length away, just below the line.
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Bring the needle up through the fabric, halfway along the stitch you have just made, then just above it.
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As in step 1, take the needle back down through the fabric to the right, a stitch length away, just below the line. Repeat steps two and three until you have reached the end of the line.
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
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TUCK AWAY YOUR TREASURES IN A
plaid bag
As the weather turns, it’s time dig out the winter woollies and accessorise with Corinne Bradd’s gorgeous tartan bag. Using good-quality medium-weight plaid and leather offcuts, the crossbody design is easy to create and requires only basic sewing skills. To add structure, a layer of felt is sewn in between the lining and the fabric, while the fold-over top also provides a practical element to the bag.
Get started • Wool tartan, 0.5m • Lining fabric, 0.5m • Wool felt, 0.5m • Upholstery weight leather, body 22cm x 37cm; strap 4cm x 1m • Zip, 30cm • Textile glue 1cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
Stitch a tartan bag
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Cut two pieces of plaid, 37cm x 40cm. Clip one short edge of each piece to the longer edges of a leather rectangle, right sides together, and stitch. Turn right sides out. Finger press the raw edges of the seam to the fabric side, then topstitch 3mm from the seam. Lay the tartan and leather panel onto felt, right side up. Pin the tartan part only and trim the felt to size. Zig zag stitch around the edges to hold the felt in place. Take two pieces of tartan, 4.5cm x 9cm. Fold in 1cm on the short edges and wrap the strips in half around the ends of the zip. Topstitch in place 5mm from the folds to leave a tab at each end. Pin the edges of the zip to the top edges of the tartan, right sides together, then sew, leaving 2cm unstitched at the end of each seam. Turn the bag out. Flatten, pin and topstitch the seam. Turn the bag inside out, open the zip slightly and pin the sides together. Stitch the side seams, taking care not to catch the tab ends of the zip in the seam. Open the zip fully and turn the bag out, pushing out the corner with a blunt ended tool and allowing the zip tabs to cover the top of the side seams. From the remaining piece of tartan, trim a 7cm wide strip. Pin to the sides of the bag, 19cm down from the zip on one side and 24cm down on the other to determine the length desired. Cut the strip accordingly, with an additional 3cm for hemming. Trim a 4cm wide strip of leather to the same length.
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Turn in and press 1.5cm along both long edges of the tartan strip. Glue one edge of the tartan along one edge of the leather strip, wrong sides facing, then topstitch 3mm in from the edge in a contrasting thread. Check the fit of the other long edge against the leather, adjust if necessary, then glue and stitch as before. Trim both strap ends, turn in and glue a 1cm hem. Open the bag fully and pin the straps in place, asymmetrically as before and through the fabric only. Topstitch the ends of the straps in a crossed box pattern, working over the lines twice for security. 50
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To insert the lining piece, fold in half and stitch along two sides. Keep it inside out, then slip it inside the bag and push into the bottom corners. Smooth it out, pinning to the bag if necessary, while you fold over the top raw edge to line up with the zip seam. Slip-stitch in place along the zip seam line and remove pins. Zip the bag up and fold the top down diagonally from strap to strap. Lightly press the fold to hold the shape. Make a tassel for the zip pull from spare leather cut into a long fringe, then roll it up and glue into a large bead cap end.
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Topstitch Topstitching is a line of machine sewing that is worked on the right side of a garment. It’s often used on the edges of clothes such as necklines and hems, in order to keep facings in place and create a crisp edge. A functional topstitch is sewn using a slightly longer straight stitch and matching thread – for a decorative effect, you can always try a fancier thread.
sew gifts
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SHOPPER
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LINTON PLAID This luxurious 100% wool makes this fabric ideal for accessories that need a little structure. ÂŁ18 per metre, lintondirect.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping! 51
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DRESS CLEMENTINE CAT IN A
party frock
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It’s time to complete the second half of our two-step Clementine Cat project! This sweet kitty is sure to be the belle of the ball with this magical design, which blends fluffy tulles with elegant velvet ribbon. The dress can also be used as a mini stash-busting project if you’re looking to build up her wardrobe.
2 Get started
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• Cotton, 30cm square • Velvet ribbon, 2cm x 1m • Tulle, three shades, 50cm each (150cm) • Press studs, two
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0.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.
Stitch a pretty dress
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allowances at the corners, then snip the allowance at the neck curve so it sits flat once turned, but don’t turn through. Pin the lining to the main fabric around each armhole, matching the shoulder seams and edges, and sew in place. Snip into the seam allowances on the armholes to allow them to sit flat once turned. Push each back through the opening of the shoulder seam to the front and turn through. Use a knitting needle or chopstick to push out the corners. Roll the edges between your fingers and thumb to get the seams on the edge and press the top back, neck edge and armholes flat (Fig.3). Working one side at a time, with right sides together, match and pin one front side seam to one back side seam of the outer only, open out the lining and continue across the armhole seam onto the front and back linings. Make sure that the armhole seams match. Sew the side seam and repeat for the other side. Layer up the tulle pieces so that the order of colours is lightest at the bottom, next mid tone, then darkest, and repeat again in the same order. Put large pins in to hold all the layers together along the top long edge. Gather the top edge of the skirt and draw up the gathers until the skirt measures 31cm. With right sides together, match the gathered top of the skirt to the lower edge of the outer bodice. Adjust the gathers to be even and keep the bodice lining out of the way, then sew together (Fig.4). Fold up the 1cm seam allowance along the lower edge of the lining to the wrong side and match and pin to the seamline
Download the templates at sewmag.co.uk, print and cut out. Fold the bodice fabric in half, right sides together. Pin the pattern pieces onto the fabric and mark any triangles with a small snip in the centre, then note the press stud positions using tailor’s tacks or a water-soluble pen. Cut the tulle so that you have two panels, 21cm x 150cm, for all three colours. Cut ribbon, 12cm, and lay face up onto the right side, down the centre of the bodice front. Edge-stitch down both edges, then trim the ribbon to match the shape of the neckline of the top (Fig.1). With right sides together, match one back shoulder seam to one front shoulder seam and sew. Repeat with the other back and the remaining front shoulder seam, then press the seams open. Repeat with the front and back lining pieces. With right sides together, match the edges of the lining up to the outer pieces around the neckline and back edges. Pin in place and, starting at the lower edge of one back, sew around the edges of each centre back and around the neck finishing at the other lower back (Fig.2). Trim excess seam
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on the skirt. Slip-stitch in place to enclose all raw edges. Cut the remaining ribbon in half and pin in place on the waist, starting at the edges of the central ribbon trim. Fold 1cm in around the bodice back opening so the raw edges are hidden, and position the lower edge of the ribbon so it sits just below the waist seam. Slip-stitch each lower edge in place, working from the back around to the front and stopping when you reach the level of the vertical ribbon on the bodice. Repeat with the top edge (Fig.5). Match up the tulle layers along each back edge then, with right sides together, sew up the back of the skirt using a 1cm seam allowance. Stop 1cm below the waist seam (Fig.6). Turn the dress right sides out and sew press studs onto the back opening of the bodice using the previously marked positions. The left-hand side will overlap the right-hand side. Tie the ribbons in a bow to finish.
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sew gifts
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
get the
book
Find out how to make the rest of Clementine’s adorable troupe in Sewing Luna Lapin’s Friends (F&W Media) by Sarah Peel, £15.99, amazon.co.uk
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“Here at Sew HQ, we believe it’s never too early to start stitching for Christmas! Get your creative cap on, because our fabric bundle will have you sewing all kinds of festive makes.” Lucy Jobber, Sew editor
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Wish Lis t Curvy collective
The team’s top picks for October Make yourself a cuppa, pop some fluffy slippers on, and then we’ll begin! October’s picks bring you the very best makes for rainy days, plus you’ll find two versatile dresses that can be accessorised with autumnal chunky knits and statement necklaces. Take a peek at our selection to find something marvellous...
Wild side
Making memories Fancy a break from stitching up a storm? This eye-catching paper tree is easy to assemble and makes the perfect centrepiece for special occasions: guests can write their happy thoughts and hang them on the tree for all kinds of events. £22.99, chroniclebooks.com
ENTER TO WIN A COPY ON PAGE 78!
Don’t you just love finding flattering patterns that cater for larger busts? This October pick accommodates sizes A to D, and its curved waistband creates a lovely hourglass silhouette with darts shaping the upper bodice. This dress is perfect for intermediate seamstresses as it will kick your skillset up a notch with invisible zips and all-in-one necklines. £9.87, jenniferlauren handmade.store
Polly Chrome Crafts is one of the best in the business for handmade felt items, and it’s easy to see why! No matter what your sewing ability or how much free time you have, these adorable garlands are perfect for everyone as they’re available as DIY kits, PDF patterns and ready-made gifts. Jet off on an adventure with the Solar System kit and ready-made Safari garland. Prices vary, etsy.com/uk
Flower power
Florals are a major trend in high-street fashion right now, and they’re here to stay for autumn! Bring your sewing to bloom with this project book by adding a beautiful botanical touch to home décor, clothing and accessories. The Sew HQ team especially love the sequin bomber jacket! £14.99, pavilionbooks.com
Infinity & be yond
Houston, we have a problem... We can’t stop buying fabric! Art Gallery Fabric’s Stargazer collection is an absolute must for your stash – the playful and imaginative designs will take you on a journey to explore the universe! Unleash your inner child and create outfits adorned with moons, stars and planets. £15 per metre, for stockists visit hantex.co.uk/mystockist
Dress to wow
Say ‘hello’ to your new autumn bestie! The Marguerite Dress features a semifitted bodice with bust darts and a gorgeous gathering on the waist and skirt, as well as in-seam pockets. This frock will look stylish paired with tights and black boots, and you can dress it up with bold jewellery, or keep it casual with a thick cardigan. £7.50, sewoverit.co.uk
Tell us your favourite products by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk 56
sewmag.co.uk
South West
Aside from the crispy golden pasties and breezy beach walks, the South West also offers a lively stitching scene, from Devon across to Somerset, and no-one know this region better than Coast and Country Crafts! Starting out as a mobile shop that travelled around Cornwall, occasionally dipping into Devon and Somerset, the store has since set up base at the Cornish Garden Nurseries in Barras Moor Village. Here, they specialise in craft and quilt patterns from around the world, with all the accessories you need to complete them.
MORE SHOPS TO CHECK OUT IN YOUR AREA... • Somerset Sewing Machine, Somerset • The Little Sewing Co., Dorset • Sidmouth Fabrics, Sidmouth
Coast and Country Crafts
Travel Guide MORE SHOPS TO CHECK OUT IN YOUR AREA...
Wales Whether you’re based in the beautiful Welsh valleys or living in the hustle and bustle of Cardiff, there are plenty of stitching stores you can pop along to and explore. Abakhan is just one example! Starting out as a rug weaving business in the late forties, the first retail outlet opened in Mostyn, North Wales, over thirty years ago – and it’s still trading today! Sew Saturday will be running in all nine UK branches, including the new store in Altrincham, Manchester, and you’ll find friendly staff on hand to help choose must-have fabrics and haberdashery essentials. More shops to check out in your area... • J&B Sewing Machine Co., Newport • White Gecko Craft Lounge, Dinas Powys • TrixieLixie, Cardiff
• Sew Much To Do, Ely • GillyBee Designs, Norwich • Jardine’s Fabrics, Clacton-on-Sea
Inside Abakhan store
Beth Abakhan
Can’t find your local store? Head online to sewmag.co.uk/sew-saturday to use our interactive Sew Saturday map! 59
sewmag.co.uk
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
BEDFORDSHIRE
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
CORNWALL
www.evieandlola.co.uk
MACARON WORKSHOPS
FABRICS, YARNS, SEWING MACHINES and much more !
Join us at our Kitchen
Table for all kinds of creative inspiration
NEW WORKSHOP OPEN
58 King Street, Cambridge CB1 1LN info@sewknitcraft.co.uk 01223 350691
Unit 1 St Cuthberts Arcade, Bedford, Bedfordshire, MK40 3JG Email: anwyn@evieandlola.co.uk evieandlola
BEDFORDSHIRE
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
CARDIFF
13 Camms Corner Dinas Powys CF64 4QY Tel: 029 2115 2628 email: shop@whitegeckoevents.co.uk web: www.whitegeckocraftlounge.co.uk
BRISTOL
46 Sandy Park Rd, Brislington BS4 3PF Mon - Fri 9.30am - 5.30pm Sat 9am - 5pm
0117 977 8216 www.direct-sewingmachines.co.uk
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
CARDIFF
“Come & join us and Jayne from Janome for Sew Saturday”!
Phone: 01209 216942 sales@thesewingstudio.co.uk www.thesewingstudio.co.uk
CORNWALL
1 Biddicks Court, St. Austell, Cornwall PL25 5PY
01726 75385 Patchwork, Quilting, Craft and Dressmaking fabrics and classes, sewing and knitting patterns, wool, haberdashery and Toyota and Pfaff Sewing Machines.
CORNWALL
Cornish Garden Nurseries, Barras Moor, Perranarworthal, Truro
Opening hours: Tuesday: 10.00 - 18.30 Wednesday, Thursday & Friday: 10.00 - 17.30 Saturday: 12.00 - 16.30 7 Steel Close, Eaton Socon, St Neots PE19 8TT
www.coastandcountrycrafts.co.uk sally@coastandcountrycrafts.co.uk Tel: 01872 870478
www.habbydays.co.uk
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
The Sewing Studio 10-12 Chapel Street Redruth, Cornwall TR15 2DB
CARDIFF
Curlew Close, Queensway Meadows, Newport NP19 4SY 01633 284646
Gripoly Mills, Sloper Road, Cardiff CF11 8AA 02922 402418
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
DERBYSHIRE
EAST SUSSEX
FRANKLINS Little Sew and Sew 8 Church Street, Ripley, Derbyshire DE5 3BU
11b Bexhill Road St. Leonards-on-Sea East Sussex TN38 0AH
thefabriccabin@gmail.com
07713848334 facebook.com/thefabriccabin www.thefabriccabin.co.uk
DEVON
info@littlesewandsewsussex.co.uk 01424 423375 www.littlesewandsewsussex.com
EAST YORKSHIRE HORNSEA SEWING CENTRE
53 Newbegin, Hornsea, HU18 1AB Tel: 01964 535 599
DEVON
ESSEX
Janome •Juki • Brother • Pfaff • Bernina • Alfa Britannia • RMF sewing tables & cabinets CHELMSFORD COLCHESTER 13-15 St Botolphs Street 201 Moulsham Street CO2 7DU CM2 0LG 01206 563955 01245 346300 SALISBURY IPSWICH 41 Fisherton Street 1-3 St Matthews Street SP2 7RB IP1 3EL 01722 554466 01473 221188 PRICES BETTER THAN SHOPPING ONLINE!!
Largest |Europes needlecraft store ESSEX
FIFE There is something for everyone at Buttons & Blethers:
* Workshops & classes for adults & children * Retail sale of fabric, patterns, wool & haberdashery * Craft classes * Sewing machine hire, sales & repairs * Social cafe space
Fabrics, Haberdashery, Wool, Ribbons, Patterns; New fabrics every week
31 Mill Street, Sidmouth, EX10 8DF
Workshops • Materials • Equipment
01395 513209
6 Rayne Road, Braintree, CM7 2QH
www.sidmouthfabrics.com
DORSET
Fabrics & Trimmings Open: Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm
Tel: 07413 413 775 80d Rosemary Road, Clacton-on-Sea, CO15 1ND
www.lingardfabrics.co.uk ESSEX
Jardines Fabrics 29 Jackson Road, Clacton On Sea, Essex CO15 1JA. Tel: 01255 427400 jardinesfabrics Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm
FIFE
55 High Street, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7DL
www.thesewstudio.co.uk
01383 621894
www.buttonsandblethers.co.uk 01383 747884 Maggie@buttonsandblethers.co.uk Unit 15a Elgin Industrial Estate, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7SN
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
GREATER MANCHESTER
HAMPSHIRE
HERTFORDSHIRE 142 Cotterells Hemel Hempstead Herts, HP1 1JQ 01442 245383
ROUGE FABRICS Join us for
SEW SATURDAY Fabrics, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Knitting and Sewing Lessons 39 Parsonage Street, Dursley, Glos, GL11 4BP www.inchesfabrics.co.uk
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham GL50 4AA
Visit us for local service with internet prices tel: 01242 244025 www.westendsewing.co.uk
GREATER MANCHESTER
on 6th October 84 Penny Meadows Ashton-Under-Lyme OL6 6EP
0161 330 9171
07900 828431 hello@purple-stitches.com www.purple-stitches.com
HAMPSHIRE
HAMPSHIRE
●
Unit 14, Hassock Wood Business Centre, Stroudley Road, Basingstoke RG24 8UQ
Haberdashery Workshops
E: hello@bobbinsewingschool.com
www.bobbinsewingschool.co.uk
HAMPSHIRE
www.needlecraftstore.co.uk contact@needlecraftstore.co.uk
HERTFORDSHIRE
Haberdashery, Yarns and Craft!
●
Bobbin Sewing School The Stables, The Vine, High Street, Stockbridge, Hampshire SO20 6HF
One of Hertfordshire’s largest stockists for wools, fabrics, haberdashery and crafts
USE CODE: SEWSAT10 FOR 10% OFF Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road, Dibden Purlieu SO45 4PX
02381 783386 www.newforestfabrics.co.uk LANCASHIRE
HAMPSHIRE
Patchwork Parade “Q” House, Russell Street, Chadderton, Oldham OL9 9LF Selling all things hand-made from the local community. Come in and see.
Quality cotton fabrics, threads and haberdashery, kits and patterns. Classes for all skill levels.
Call: 023 8084 5340
OPEN TUESDAY-SATURDAY 10AM-4PM
T: 0161 633 5900 W: www.patchworkparade.com E: patchworkparade@gmail.com
Email: uniqueretail@outlook.com
01252 444220
Hythe, Southampton, Hampshire
www.sew‐busy.co.uk
Open: Monday-Saturday, 9.00am–5.30pm UniqueRetailShop
Unit 18C • Hart Shopping Centre • Fleet • Hampshire GU51 3LA
HAMPSHIRE
HERTFORDSHIRE
Your award-winning craft superstore! Papercraft, Knit & Stitch, Classes & Demonstrations! Capitol Centre, Preston, Lancashire, PR5 4AW (behind Dunelm Mill) OPEN: MONDAY - SATURDAY; 10AM - 5.30PM SUNDAY; 11AM - 4PM
Tel: 01772 880852 www.inspirationscraft.co.uk LEICESTERSHIRE
Heavenly Arts & Crafts Cafe Bernina Elna Janome Toyota
Get in touch today! • Sewing Machine Sales • Servicing • Repairs • Haberdashery Supplies • Clothing Repairs and Alterations
www.reads-of-winchester.co.uk
01962 850 950
SEW SATURDAY OPEN DAY
The home of Modern Couture, Fitting, Tailoring, the Sewing Retreat and so much more
~~~~ 10AM-3PM FREE ENTRY Our warm and friendly charity runs a sewing cafe four times a month, as well as courses taught by a qualified teacher. CLP Sewing Cafe
Tel: 07771 99 28 95
71 Market Street, Ashby de la Zouch, Leicestershire LE65 1AH
Tel: 01530 416300 /schoolofsewing @sewalison
@sewwardrobe Sew Wardrobe
www.schoolofsewing.co.uk & www.sewwardrobe.co.uk
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
LEICESTERSHIRE
MORAY
NORTHAMPTONSHIRE www.mooloos.co.uk • Sewing workshops from ages 9+ • Silver Sewing Machine Stockists • Fabrics, Haberdashery & Alterations
5 MARKET PLACE, BRACKLEY, NN13 7AB
Phone: 01280 308 721 Opening times: Mon, Tue, Thurs & Fri 9.30am - 4pm Saturday 9.30am - 2pm Closed Wednesday & Sunday
LEICESTERSHIRE
LINCOLNSHIRE
NORFOLK
NORTH LINCOLNSHIRE “Your one stop sewing shop”
“Dressmaking fabrics, quilting cottons, haberdashery and sewing classes” Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9PB
01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk LEICESTERSHIRE FABRIC PATTERNS SEWING WORKSHOPS
LINCOLNSHIRE
“Fun for all the family plus tea and cake!” Broadly Patchwork Wroxham Barns, Tunstead Road Hoveton, NR12 8QU 01603 781665 www.broadlypatchwork.co.uk info@broadlypatchwork.co.uk
NORFOLK
Dressmaking, Pattern Cutting and Jane White Couture Tuition Award, Certificate & Diploma Programme
Enjoy professional tuition – where you’ll sew amongst enthusiasts!
Official supplier of Elna and Baby Lock sewing machines and overlockers
Tel: 01482 840712 www.janewhitetuition.co.uk
LINCOLNSHIRE
The Ropewalk, Barton upon Humber, North Lincolnshire DN18 5JT
LONDON
NORFOLK
Sewing workshops and courses for all abilities Gorgeous fabrics, haberdashery and essentials for dressmakers and quilters
Shed Load Of Crafts
Fabrics, Haberdashery & Wool! Stockists of Tilda Fabrics, Gutterman Fabrics & Threads, Butterick, McCalls and Kwik Sew patterns. Tel: 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk
Browns Garden Village Theobalds Park Road Enfield, EN2 9DG info@shedloadofcrafts.com www.shedloadofcrafts.com
E-mail: Jaylaurs54@gmail.com Join us on facebook at ‘Jaylaurs Sewing Studios’
Tel. 01652 650047 54 Wrawby Street, Brigg, DN20 8JE
Join our fun ‘Sewing Bee’ workshops and short courses for garment technique specific projects. We can arrange one to one tuition to suit you.
www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk
Fabrics & Haberdashery
Sewing patterns, Stylecraft yarn, Craft kits 2 Cucumber Lane, Brundall, Norwich NR13 5QY
Customer Loyalty Scheme
01603 716140 www.gillybee.co.uk
NORTHUMBERLAND
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
OXFORDSHIRE
STAFFORDSHIRE
Witney Sewing and Knitting Centre,
Follow us on:
52 High Street, Witney, Oxon, OX28 6HQ Telephone: 01993 702772/704535
Beautiful Fabrics and Haberdashery for all your Sewing needs. Sales service and Sewing machine repairs.
NORTH YORKSHIRE
NORTH YORKSHIRE
SOUTH YORKSHIRE
STAFFORDSHIRE
Fabrics, haberdashery, patterns, sewing lessons, sewing machines and spares.
USE CODE: SEWSAT10 FOR 10% OFF INSTORE & ONLINE
630 Abbeydale Road, Sheffield S7 2BA Tel: 0114 258 3763 Email: patchworkgarden@hotmail.com www.thepatchworkgarden.co.uk
1, The Fairway, Northallerton DL7 8AY
01609 531399 info@sewnew.co.uk
NORTH YORKSHIRE
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
SOUTH YORKSHIRE
STAFFORDSHIRE
Utterly Delightful Fabric Emporium
Bugweed’s Ltd is dedicated to sewing and crafts. We teach adults and children, make bespoke items, host birthday parties, hen parties and baby showers and sell a wide range of fabric and haberdashery.
Weekly Sewing classes and Workshops 01709 814 444
www.fromragstostitches.co.uk hello@fromragstostitches.co.uk
Tel: 07495 012546 Email: info@bugweeds.co.uk
www.bugweeds.co.uk
❖ Extensive dressmaking and quilting fabrics ❖ Haberdashery ❖ Friendly Sewing Classes ❖ Elna and Jaguar machine dealership
Please contact us on: 01827 288344 thesewcialstudio@gmail.com www.thesewcialstudio.co.uk 80-82 Watling Street, Wilnecote,Tamworth B77 5BJ
Follow us on Facebook: @bugweeds
85 High Street, Maltby, Rotherham S66 7BL
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
STAFFORDSHIRE
FOLLOW US ON:
SUFFOLK
The Corner Patch a little corner of patchwork heaven Newark Craft Hub London Road Carpark Newark on Trent Nottinghamshire NG24 1TN 01636 705909 www.newarkcrafthub.co.uk
Opening Hours: Tues - Sat 10 - 5 Late Night Wednesday until 8 Fabric, Wadding, Threads and Haberdashery Workshop & Classes for all Abilities
Telephone: 01785 859360 e-mail: jane@thecornerpatch.co.uk 12 High Street, Eccleshall, Stafford ST21 6BZ
www.thecornerpatch.co.uk
SEWING MACHINES & SERVICING - SEWING CLASSES - FABRICS & HABERDASHERY “WE’RE ALL THINGS SEWING” • Brother, Husqvarna & Pfaff sewing machines and overlockers. • Sole UK stockist of “Screw B Do” screwdrivers. • Fun sewing classes for all abilities. • Fabulous fabrics for quilting, dressmaking, sewing & crafts.
24 BURY STREET, STOWMARKET, IP14 1HH 01449 257070 www.stitchxstitch.co.uk @stitchxstitchstowmarket
Sew Saturday 6th October, 2018
Proudly sponsored by:
SUFFOLK
WEST SUSSEX
YORKSHIRE
YORKSHIRE
THE CRAFTY
EWES CABIN
Our inspirational fabrics and yarns will feed your creativity for years to come
Fabrics, Haberdashery, Wool, Ribbons, Patterns; New fabrics every week Designer Fabrics • Materials • Equipment
Find us at Smith’s Nurseries Villa Lane Thorngumbald HU12 8BA Call 01482 898501
5a York Buildings, Edlington Lane, Edlington, Doncaster DN12 1BU
@thecraftyewescabin
01709 860881 www.sewcutefabrics.co.uk
33 King Street, Sudbury, CO10 2EQ
www.lingardfabrics.co.uk SUFFOLK
YORKSHIRE
WEST SUSSEX
We’re
The Little House of Patchwork Fabrics - Threads - Quilting Supplies
JOIN US ON THE 13TH OCTOBER
New Range of Batik Fabrics
Workshops
Retreat Weekends
Order online: www.thelittlehouseofpatchwork.co.uk The Grange, Palmer Place, North Mundham, Chichester, West Sussex PO20 1JW · 01243 696670 · Open Monday-Friday 9.30am-4.00pm
TYNE & WEAR
WEST YORKSHIRE
164A Roberttown Lane Liversedge, WF15 7LT 01924 676 329 info@fabricateshop.co.uk
64 Saville Street, North Shields NE30 1AZ Tel: 0191 258 2380
Designer Dressmaking & Quilting Fabrics, Sewing Patterns, Haberdashery and Sewing Workshops
Email: info@readythreadysew.co.uk
www.readythreadysew.co.uk
WARWICKSHIRE
WILTSHIRE
07946 659942
www.kwilterskorner.com Over 1200 bolts of fabric from leading manufacturers including: Riley Blake, Lewis & Irene, Makower, Moda, and Dashwood.
Wharfside, Couch Lane, Devizes, Wiltshire SN10 1EB
Haberdashery & Workshops, Clothing Alterations & Soft Furnishings 6 Green Dragon Yard, Knaresborough, North Yorkshire HG5 8AU info@zipinn.co.uk
excited...
01423 869934 TO SIGN UP YOUR SHOP AND RECEIVE A SEW SATURDAY MASCOT, INTERACTIVE GOOGLE MAP, CUSTOMISED POSTERS, WEBSITE GRAPHICS, SOCIAL MEDIA IMAGES AND LOTS MORE ! PLEASE CONTACT:
HANNAH
on 01206 505495 or
ANNA on 01206 505932
Sign up now and let potential customers find your shop on our interactive map!
CREATE AND CRAFT SPECIAL
WOW! £7 XMAS FABRIC OFFER
Get prepped for the festive season with this fabulous Christmas Village fat quarter bundle! Create and Craft is offering every single Sew reader the chance to get their hands on this six-pack of traditionalthemed material for just £7 (usually £9.99), including free postage and packaging. Visit createandcraft. com/sewmag to order your fat quarter pack or call 0330 0415683 and quote the code 455224.
5 Great Reasons to Treat Yourself
FREE P&P!
l Six designs to choose from,
including colourful lights and fir trees
l 100% cotton quarters that are
soft-to-the-touch and durable
l Easily keep them fresh with a light
hand wash and hang to dry
l Cut with Christmas-themed dies for
Make our Christmas projects over the page
even more creative possibilities
l Get started with our designs, or try
your very own patchwork, quilting and décor ideas
Visit createandcraft.com/sewmag to order your Fat Quarters or call 0330 041 5683 and quote the code 455224. The offer is valid on orders placed with Create and Craft between 00:01 BST on 23rd August 2018 and 23:59 BST on 20th September 2018. This offer will expire on 20th September 2018 at 23:59. The offer is available to all Create and Craft customers. The offer can be purchased via the Create and Craft website createandcraft.com, on the mobile app, the IVR and by phone. Ideal Shopping Direct Limited reserves the right from time to time and at any time to cancel, discontinue, temporarily or permanently, or amend the promotion or these rules, with or without prior notice (including, without limitation, in the case of anticipated, suspected or actual fraud).
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FOUR WAYS WITH
Christmas village
Here at Sew HQ, we say it’s never too early to start thinking about Christmas! With the cooler months fast approaching, it’s a good time to snuggle up indoors with your favourite fabric and start making some festive projects. This month, Sew designer Corinne Bradd has put together four gorgeous makes from Create and Craft’s Christmas Village material. To top it off, this fabric is part of our fabulous reader offer on page 66 – find your discount code and bag yourself these easy-sew cotton fat quarters for just £7!
Get started • Fabric: Christmas Village fat quarters; white cotton • Lightweight quilt wadding
Projects exclusive to
sew!
• Pom-pom trim • Fabric waterproofer • Round elastic, 1.5mm
67
sewmag.co.uk
Whip up this simple make in an afternoon!
d easy this quick an Have a go at e ho t for your m festive projec
Create star coasters
1
Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk. Cut six diamond shapes from three different fabrics, adding a 0.5cm seam allowance onto each edge. Sew three contrasting pieces together on the lower diagonals to make a fan shape, then repeat with the remaining three pieces. Stitch the two fans together to make a star, matching the centre seams accurately, then press. Pin the star face down onto a 20cm star of white cotton, backed with quilt wadding. Stitch around the edges, leaving a 3cm gap in the centre of one
2
sew
Stitch reversible bowl covers
free template download
1
3
2
4
Measure the width of your bowl and add 10cm. Cut two circles following this measurement and place right sides together. Sew around the circumference with a 0.5cm seam allowance, leaving a 3cm gap at the edge. Turn out and press. Topstitch a continuous line, 1cm in from the outer seam. If you want to make the cover waterproof, paint an even layer of fabric waterproofer over it within the topstitching. Leave it to dry for an hour before ironing it under a piece of greaseproof paper to create a glossy finish.
sewmag.co.uk /templates straight edge. Trim away the excess fabric, clip the inner corners and cut off the points before turning out through the gap. Use a point turner to ensure the arms of the star are turned out properly. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitch closed. Topstitch from the centre of the star out to all points and angles.
3
“These coasters will make a lovely addition to your Christmas dinner table or, simply dot them around your home� Corinne Bradd, sew designer 68
sewmag.co.uk
Tie a length of 1.5mm round elastic to a small safety pin and use as a bodkin to thread the elastic through the channel at the edge of the circle. Place the cover over your bowl and pull the elastic tight enough to make a snug fit over the sides, before tying in a secure knot. Trim away the excess elastic and tuck the cut ends inside the channel. Fold in the raw edges and slip-stitch closed. Most covers will fit a variety of bowls with a diameter of around 5cm.
sew gifts Thanks to Frankie Baldwin for telling us about her Christmas stocking wishlist! We hope you enjoy your prize - a set of Madeira threads! Help us with suggestions for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq
ÂŁ7
fat quarter offer on page 66
sew
free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates
Make a stocking
1
Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk. Cut a stocking shape from quilt wadding and white cotton, then pin together. Cut six pieces of patterned fabric, 8cm x 20cm. Cut across each one at a slight diagonal angle, then pin one strip right side up along the top edge of the stocking. Place a second strip face down on the first strip, lining up the bottom edge. Sew across the bottom edge with a 0.5cm seam allowance. Turn out and press before topstitching 0.5cm either side of the seam. Add a third piece to the bottom of the second strip in the same way, ensuring the fabric overlaps the edges of the stocking. Vary the way the slanted strips are placed to create a random stripe, then continue adding fabric using the quilt-as-you-go method as shown on The Crafts Channel.
2 3
Sew a table mat
4
1
5
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Once the stocking is completely covered, trim the patchwork to the same shape as the wadding and zig zag stitch around the edges. Make reverse stocking shapes from patterned fabric, wadding and white cotton, then zig zag the edges to hold the layers together before sewing to the patchwork piece, right sides together. Clip the curves and turn right sides out. Cut fabric, 5cm x 20cm, then fold right sides together and stitch down the long edge. Turn out and fold in half to make a loop, then tack to the top back of the stocking, matching the raw edges. Cut a 3cm wide strip in the same fabric and use to bind the top of the stocking, securing the loop as you do so. Hand-sew a length of pom-pom trim around the bottom of the binding.
This mat uses 36 rectangles split into three columns of 12. Start by cutting several rectangles, 7cm x 13cm, from three different fabrics. Lay out the first column on a flat surface in a herringbone design with the rectangles slanting up, alternating the fabrics as you go. Start from the base of the column and stitch the short edge of the first rectangle to the lower edge of the second rectangle, with a 0.5cm seam allowance. Open out these pieces and sew the lower edge of the third rectangle to the top edge of the joined first and second sections, lining up the short edge of the third with the long edge of the second. Stop the seam 1.5cm from the end of the third piece. Continue stitching the rectangles together in this way, leaving 1.5cm free at the end each time. Lay out and sew together two more identical columns. Take the first and second column and start working from the top of each. Line
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up the short edge of the first rectangle in one column with the leftover long edge from the other. Check that the points at the ends of the columns are still level, then sew together. Line up the next set of adjacent edges and stitch together, carrying on from the previously unsewn sections of the seam to give a smooth line. Continue sewing the columns in this way. Press the quilt top and trim the wide zig zag edges from one side. Take this over to the other edge of the patchwork and stitch onto the corresponding zig zag. Cut across the points of the columns to straighten the top edge, and stitch the resulting triangles into the recesses at the base of the quilt to create straight edges. Pin the patchwork onto wadding and white cotton backing fabric. Topstitch the design as desired, before trimming the edges and binding with 4cm wide strips of coordinating fabric.
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A new home will be the perfect excuse for me to create some soft furnishings
At home with...
Peace Accent Chair, £359, dfs.co.uk
I’ve dug out the knitting needles to make a cosy pair of socks, ready for chillier days
I have fallen head over in heels in love with Abraham Moons’ Glen Coe fabric
© Photographed by Rachel Whiting.
STUART HILLARD Heading to pastures new brings Stuart fresh sewing opportunities Spring might be the time when statistically more houses are sold, but my husband Charlie and I take a little more time to mull things over!
It’s autumn and we are currently in full house hunting mode, scouring the Yorkshire countryside for fresh fields to settle in. I made the move to Yorkshire 15 years ago from my pad in the city; I always thought it would take wild horses to drag me from my life there, but in the end my decision was an easy one – I just needed the right handsome farmer’s boy to motivate me! We wanted to start our lives together in a home that was new to us both. I couldn’t imagine living with someone else’s colour choices and a fledgling relationship really isn’t the best place to test such negotiations! It worked for us – we found a lovely cottage and decided five years in that house would be plenty of time to test the waters before we moved onto something more ambitious. HUMBLE ABODE We had plenty of trying times in the early days... I discovered that my love of orange is not universally shared, but my need to trail fabric into every room in the house has been accepted, nay, welcomed! The division of labour has been a gradual process but slowly we’ve made a house into our home. I’m not sure when that
happened, but during my travels it’s the place I dream of getting back to. Fifteen years have since passed and it’s only now that we have made the decision to leave and start a new chapter. I’m not sure how many times we’ve revamped and re-modelled each room – probably more than average, it’s a big part of my job after all – but I feel we’ve reached the limit of what’s possible here and a new canvas is required.
“Fifteen years have passed since I first moved into my home, and it’s only now that I’ve made the decision to leave and start a new chapter” DÉCOR DELIGHTS A new home will be the perfect excuse for me to bring out my sewing machine and create the soft furnishings that are so important to me. Okay, confession time, I’m not a massive fan of making curtains. Don’t get me wrong, I’ll certainly make them rather than buy them, but if nothing else for the potentially enormous price difference. I love making blinds though, especially of the Roman variety; in the right sort of fabrics they can look incredibly smart, clean and effortlessly chic. I’m also considering a ‘lambrequin’ if
Snuggle up on the sofa with these woodland cushions. Tutorial available at sewmag.co.uk there’s a suitable window. Rarely seen these days, I think they’re a wonderful way to frame a really spectacular view. Think of it as a box pelmet over a window that extends down the sides as well; they can be shaped and highly decorative or very simple, and extending the pelmet to the sides creates eye-catching detail. Depending how it is placed, it can really alter or accentuate the size and shape of a window. FABRIC FANATIC Having been a lifelong fan of the high-street stores I am very proud to announce that my fabrics are now available in John Lewis nationwide! My heart skips a beat at the very idea that my creations are in such hallowed grounds, so if you’re passing a store do pop in and say hello to my little ones wont you! Kimono, my Japanese-inspired range, has been very well received, and I’ve also done a little Christmas collection influenced by The Nutcracker: very possibly my favourite ballet ever. As the leaves start to turn and evenings draw in I crave comfort, softness and warmth and I always turn to wool to satisfy these needs. I have fallen head over in heels in love with Abraham Moons’ Glen Coe fabric in yellow and pink. It’s a gorgeous classic check pattern that is made modern with a wonderfully fresh colour palette – perfect for the contemporary country home, barn conversion or even city pad (particularly if your heart is in the country!)
Stuart x
You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or visit @stuarthillardsews on Instagram 70
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• HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL •
your essential guide to a
HYGGE HOME Project exclusive to
sew!
As you may already know, Sew loves a good stash-busting project or five – they're the perfect opportunity to turn any fabric leftovers into fabulous creations! Put your quilting skills to the test with our cosy throw, master working with heavy fabrics and stitch our glorious curtains, or dip into our other makes. Opt for autumnal tones and sew all of the home accessories in regal reds and punchy oranges!
Share your makes with us on social media @sewHQ
!
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• HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL •
Get started
Get started
• Fabric jelly roll • Lampshade, 25cm
• Polycotton, mint green • Lining fabric, 15cm x 50cm • Thin wadding, 15cm x 50cm
Create a lampshade
1
Cut patterned fabric lengthways, 3cm wide. Knot the end of a fabric length at a join on the bottom edge of the lampshade, where the vertical strut meets the lower circle, and wrap the fabric around the circular lower edge. Tie the lengths to the frame when you run out of fabric, then repeat to cover the metal ring and continue until the top is covered. Knot fabric at the top of one of the vertical struts. Pull tightly across the gap and tie it to the next vertical strut. Trim the fabric ends to 2cm. Take a contrasting fabric and tie it below the right-hand knot of the first piece. Stretch this across to the next free strut on the right. Knot and trim the ends as before. Continue to add contrasting fabrics, and work around the frame, knotting each scrap and trimming as you go until the lampshade is covered.
Sew a bunting cushion
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Create a triangle template, 5.5cm x 8.5cm, from cardboard and cut 21 triangles from various fabrics. Iron the top edge of the shapes to the back, and trim any protruding corners. Cut mint fabric, 42cm x 1m, and hem the two short ends. With right sides down, fold the top edge of the fabric over, then the lower edge up to create a square, 40cm from the top to the bottom folds. Press the folds and open out to lay the fabric flat. Using the folds as a guide to the outer edges of the cushion, arrange the shapes on the cover to look like bunting, then pin to secure. Zig zag stitch across the top edges of the triangles to fix in place. Fold the upper edge of the cushion fabric over the bunting, and fold the lower edge up. Stitch the cushion cover side seams with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Turn right sides out and press.
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• HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL •
Get started • Fabric, floral; plain • Fusible webbing • Pom-pom trim • Cushion inner, 51cm diameter • Long upholstery needle
Stitch a floor cushion
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Cut two circles, 54cm, in contrasting fabric. Trim a 16cm square from your chosen base fabric, snip fusible
webbing of the same size and adhere to the back with an iron. Draw and cut out a circle, 14cm diameter, onto the paper backing. Peel off the paper and stick to the centre of the cover top. Stick fusible webbing to the back of floral fabric, then cut around each bloom. Trim 12 flowers, peel off the backing, and arrange in a circle around the centre, then press. Add fusible webbing to the back of the plain fabric, then draw 12 leaves onto the paper backing. Cut out and peel off the backing. Fix the leaves in between the flowers.
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With a contrasting thread, zig zag stitch around the edges of the centre circle and the leaves. Change the thread colour and zig zag a circle between the flowers and leaves, then zig zag a curved scalloped line around the edges of the leaves. Using the embroidery function, sew in contrasting thread down the centre of each leaf. Change the stitch and create a short line at the point of each scallop between the leaves. Stitch the pom-pom trim around the edge of the top piece. Sew the base
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and front together, sandwiching the trim in between and leaving a gap. Turn the cover to the right side through the gap and hand slip-stitch the gap closed after inserting the pad. Cover a button in contrasting fabric. Thread a long upholstery needle with strong thread and stitch to the centre of the cushion. Pass your needle through the centre through to the front and attach a button, then pass the needle back. Attach another button to the base. Pull tightly, then fasten off the thread behind the back button.
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• HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL •
• Assorted upholstery fabrics • Quilt wadding, 4oz • Cotton sheeting, plain; patterned
Make a patchwork throw
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Trim upholstery fabric into 20cm squares. Arrange the squares on a flat surface and stitch right sides together in pairs with a 1cm seam allowance. Stitch adjacent pairs
to the edges. Quilt horizontally and vertically over the throw. Trim excess backing and wadding to match the top. Cut several 4cm wide strips on patterned cotton and sew end to end to make a continuous strip. Pin the strip face down on the wrong side of the quilt edge. Sew 1cm from the edge, and trim to the length of the quilt. Repeat for the opposite edge. Open out the borders before sewing the border strip to the two remaining edges, overlapping the ends of the previous strip and trimming in line with the edge of the border.
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Turn the quilt right side up and fold in 1cm along the edges of the strip, before folding the border over the raw edges and pinning to the quilt top. Mitre the corners of the border whilst pinning it to the front of the quilt. Topstitch the border in place using a coordinating thread, 50mm from the inner folded edge.
!
Get started
of squares, right sides together, with the same seam allowance to create blocks. Continue sewing the blocks together, matching up the centre seams to create a large panel, then press on the reverse, flattening all of the seams to one side. Cut white cotton sheeting, 10cm larger than all four sides, then press. Lay quilt wadding of a similar size over the cotton sheeting and place the patchwork piece right side up over the wadding. Pin all three layers together at regular intervals. Quilt the layers along the side lines using a long straight stitch, starting from the centre and working out
• HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL • HOME DECOR SPECIAL •
Get started • Fabric • Curtain lining • Eyelets • Eyelet tape • Curtain weights
Assemble lined curtains
1
To get started, measure out the fabric. As a rule, the desired length of the curtains should be approximately double the length of the pole. Add 15cm to the desired length to accommodate the hem, and 1.5cm which will sit around the eyelets and pole, plus 7cm so you can turn the fabric under the tape at the top of the curtains. Cut out the curtain and the same amount of lining. Use an even number of eyelets to ensure that the leading and side edge of the curtains are pointing towards the wall. This must
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be considered when working out how much heading tape is needed and how wide the finished widths of the curtain should be. Fold and press 5cm along each side edge and a double 7.5cm at the base of the curtain. Place a pin into the corner at the base, open out the pressed folds and turn the corner at a 45-degree angle, then re-fold and press to form a mitre. Undo the side and one hem fold, and stitch the curtain weight into the loose flap. If you're using lead penny weights, cover them with curtain lining scraps. Repeat the process on the remaining corners. Ladder stitch the mitred corners, ensuring you retain the point. Sew each of the side edges with a 6cm longstitch. Hand-sew the hem using a hemming stitch. Fold, then machine-
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stitch a double 5cm hem to the base of the lining. Position the lining to the curtain, 2.5cm from the base hem of the curtain. Turn under 2.5cm of lining on each side, creating a 2.5cm border around the curtain. Ladderstitch the lining to the curtain. Sew 8cm along the hem of the curtain to prevent the lining rolling out. Trim excess lining, then fold and press 7cm down at the top of the curtains before pinning on the heading tape and machine-stitching together. Turn the tape in at either side. Cut out round discs inside each of the metal circles on the heading tape and click eyelets onto the right side of each hole. Connect the plastic tabs on either side of the eyelets on the tape to form waves, and thread the curtains onto the pole.
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sew gifts
Style up your gadgets with a
Tablet Cover This chic project by Corinne Bradd is perfect for bookworms and gadget lovers alike! Use simple techniques such as patchwork and buttonholes to stitch a handy case. The no-pattern design creates a 13cm x 21cm pouch, but you can alter the main panel to fit everything from a phone to an e-reader. Plus, it’s quick to make in an evening, so you can put your feet up afterwards and recharge your batteries.
Get started • Cotton: white; fabric scraps • Lightweight wadding • Button
Stitch a cover
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Cut strips, 4.5cm x 35cm, from patterned fabric. Place right sides together and sew to create a 26cm-deep panel. Press the seams and trim a 4cm section from one side for the closure. Layer the panel on wadding and backing fabric, then topstitch the seams. Square the edges and fold in half, right sides together. Pin and sew the sides, then trim the seam allowance and neaten with zig zag stitch. Flatten the pouch so the seam sits in the centre and zig zag stitch the base. Trim 2cm of wadding from the top, fold a double hem and slip-stitch. To create the strap, cut fabric into a 14cm strip and quilt onto the wadding. Place face down on cotton and sew the sides, creating a point at the short end. Clip the corners and turn out. Tuck in the raw edges of the short edge, slip-stitch closed and hand-stitch the strap to the inside of the case. Create a buttonhole and sew a button in place.
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With this kit, you'll be able to create your own adorable woodland companion from a whole host of materials! The set includes 1.5mm-thick multimedia dies and a range of detailed shapes, so you'll be whipping up cute creatures such as a fox, owl, deer and hedgehog in no time! Available at crafterscompanion.co.uk We have seven sets to give away. To enter, tick FRIENDS
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Worth
If you were inspired by this project book on our Wishlist page, then you're in for a treat! Sew are giving you the chance to win a copy, so you can bring your sewing to bloom by adding a beautiful botanical touch to home décor, clothing and accessories – keep an eye out for the gorgeous tasselled wall hanging! Available at Pavilion Books, pavilionbooks.com We have ten books to give away. To enter, tick FLOWER
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£150! GROW YOUR SKILLSET
Hot off the shelf from the world-renowned Royal School of Needlework comes the beautiful Book of Embroidery. The guide is a must-read for all embroiderers as it covers eight key stitchy techniques, including crewelwork, bead embroidery, canvaswork and so much more, in exquisite detail. Available at Search Press, searchpress.com We have six books to give away. To enter, tick EMBROIDERY
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To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 04.10.18 Mark your envelope: Sew October Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP2 8WG.
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Stitch the Look
WHY NOT TRY?
TEMPTING TWEED
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High-fashion houses are repping the tweed once again – step aside Sherlock Holmes, this woollen fabric is ours! The name ‘tweed’ is derived from the lowland Scotland word for ‘twill’, but an English merchant misread this as ‘tweed’, and the name has stuck ever since. The rough material can be woven in various weaves, including twill, and this cosy fabric is incredibly easy-to-sew with due to its heavy weight which makes handling it effortless, and the textured surface helps to hide those not so perfect stitches!
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“The reason why tweed is such a classic choice is due to its quality. It all comes down to the fabric construction, with a combination of specially selected yarns and intricate designs. People appreciate the craftsmanship involved when making it, which is what makes the material a timeless wardrobe staple”
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Check coat, £45, bonmarche. co.uk
Gemma Lowdon, Design and Sales, Linton Tweeds
1 Yellow, green and orange tweed, £34 per metre 2 Red, black and orange tweed, £38 per metre 3 Black, cream and orange tweed, £34 per metre 4 Mulberry, pink and navy tweed, £34 per metre 5 Green, yellow and black tweed, £30 per metre All of the featured fabrics are available from lintondirect.co.uk
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Download your digital patterns in
4 EASY STEPS! Give your bedroom a cosy transformation with these quick quilts
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CLICK THE DOWNLOAD TEMPLATE
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QUATREFOIL QUILT
GEOMETRIC COVER-UP
Combine crisp whites with bright pops of colour for a statement throw.
Whip up this nine-patch number for snuggling on the sofa this autumn.
COSY CAT BLOCK
STASH-BUSTER STYLE
Add a feline touch to your décor with this playful vintage design.
Using a mixture of 20 printed fabrics, this easy design will help clear your craft room!
...button, which you will find under the main image.
SAVE THE PATTERN PDF
4
...by right clicking to save to your computer, then print out (DON’ T fit to the page!) PRINT OUT & KEEP
Issue 100 Aug issue 2017 Issue 115 October 2018
JUST PRINT OUT THE PAGE OR PAGES YOU NEED FROM YOUR PRINT MENU In your print menu, under Size options, be sure to select to print ‘Actual Size’, instead of ‘Fit to Page’
You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our back issues at sewmag.co.uk/templates Designer: Amanda Walker Magazine page: 18 Total 23 pages to print
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EL PAN ACK T&B side FRON oth FOR on b PLEAT otch uter n een o r betw Gathe
BACK FACING Cut one pair
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FRONT PANEL Cut one on fold SIDE PANEL Cut two on fold BACK PANEL Cut one pair
FRONT FACING fold Cut one on
Cut one pair for back panels
BACK BODICE Cut one pair
Cut on fold for centre front panel and side panels
FRONT BODICE Cut one on fold
‘TILING’ DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern, as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready to join the sheets! 20
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centre front
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Lorem ipsum
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WAISTBAND Cut one only
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All projects, templates and patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes.
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Get to grips with the dressmaking basics! THE PERFECT FIT
The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope. You can then make any alterations that are necessary. Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.
l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.
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TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS
Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk
HIGH BUST Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2018 Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys. All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.
FULL BUST
WAIST HIPS
Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.
HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head. HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust. FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments. HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist. 84
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Use the FREE pattern at sewmag.co.uk to create this chic Shauna coatigan
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
wear with
EASE
‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily. Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitting garment? “The Rosita knitted herringbone fabric is a blend of polyester and wool, making it a warm, lightweight material which is perfect for making shawls, jackets and cardigans for autumn.” CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL
PREPARE YOUR PATTERN
Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting. This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.
CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC
SELVEDGES
FOLD
MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes. Highlighting yours can help with cutting.
BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.
TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.
GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.
BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.
FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.
MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.
NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.
“Using an overlocker machine is a great way to neaten seams; however, there are other ways to achieve the same professional finish. Start by investing in an overcasting foot with either a bar or a bar and a brush this will give you an edging similar to that produced by an overlocker. Next, trim the seams and position the bar on the raw edge of the fabric and use zig zag, three step zig zag or overedge stitch to prevent the seams from fraying.” MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY
UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC
PLACING YOUR PIECES
Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:
With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. Tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching so you can adjust if necessary. Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.
WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.
WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body. SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.
S BIA
Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabric first. This means that you will know how the material reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press it with an iron using a suitable heat setting. After, lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.
READING A PATTERN
The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.
WARP Rosita – Blue/ White Herringbone, £16 per metre, croftmill.co.uk
WEFT
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the BOOKS we’re loving... Delve into the wonderful world of project books
All Sewn Up
by Chloë Owens Finding vintage-inspired makes that are also forward-thinking can be tricky, but not with this step-by-step book! Author Chloë has gathered 35 modern projects, using appliqué, embellishments and so much more! Test your freehand embroidery expertise with straightforward creations, and learn new skills with handy technique pages. We can’t wait to start stitching the bobtail bunnies! CICO Books, £12.99, makeetc.com
The Art of the Fold
50 Ways to Wear Accessories by Lauren Friedman
Do you want your handmade garments to stand out from the crowd? Accessorise them with confidence! If you’re looking for new ways to wear scarves or jewellery or want to complement your makes with different patterns and colours, then this book is for you! Learn how to style your look for any occasion with the help of author and stylist, Lauren Friedman, who brought you 50 Ways to Wear a Scarf. Chronicle Books, £11.53, chroniclebooks.com
by Hedi Kyle and Ulla Warchol
Making Children’s Clothes
The influential artist, Hedi Kyle and renowned architecture graduate, Ulla Warchol shows you how to create their unique designs using folding techniques. From creating flag books and fishbones, to blizzards and nesting boxes, you’ll gain an invaluable insight into the work of two skilled artists with this fun read! With the help of their thorough instructions and simple illustrations, you’ll be on your way to becoming a pro paper crafter in no time at all. Laurence King, £24.99, laurenceking.com
by Emma Hardy
Sewing for tiny tots is one of our favourite pastimes – their clothing is just so cute! If you love it too, why not check out Emma’s 25 straight-forward projects for little ones? This amazing book is jampacked with party clothes and pinafore dresses, as well as sleepwear and bootees, with each project including a full-sized pullout pattern. Join Emma in creating adorable items that any child will love to wear! CICO Books, £12.99, makeetc.com
Metalwork Jewelry
Stitch & Sew
by Linda Peterson
by Aneela Hoey
This project book is inspired by steampunk – the style that gives vintage fashion a savvy twist – and what better way to pay homage to the trend than with metalwork jewellery? Create unique accessories using materials found in your home, such as nuts, bolts and old keys – yes, really! You’ll learn the tricks of the trade, like soldering and working with brass, copper and silver. CICO Books, £12.99, makeetc.com
Reaffirm your love for hand sewing one stitch at a time! Expand your skills with five beautiful and practical projects: a drawstring bag, clutch, purse, zipper pouch and flex case, each showcasing six unique motifs and colour combinations. Learn beginner or advanced embroidery, and experiment with thread choices on textured fabrics such as chambray, linen and canvas. Stash Books, £20.83, ctpub.com 87
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HOLD TIGHT! OUR CHRISTMAS ISSUE IS ON SALE 20TH SEPTEMBER 2018 89
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Monsoon’s red ensemble is miles away from the coat’s traditional dark colours – but isn’t it fabulous? £140, monsoon.co.uk
With its long length and striking colours, this coat checks all of our boxes! £90, very.co.uk
STYLE STORY
Feel fantastic in this brightly coloured take on the classic! Coat, £65; Top, £22; Trousers, £26. mandco.com
Pair this gorgeous coat with straightleg jeans for a chic look. £69 cottontraders.com
THE PEA COAT
THE CLOSET CLASSIC REVAMPED Words by LAURA WYBROW
Autumn has just begun, so you might not have given much thought to your outerwear – but we believe there’s no time like the present! Introducing this month’s style star: the pea coat. Found in every wardrobe across the nation, it has been reworked in a multitude of different ways to suit both sexes. Now, the garment is reaching new heights thanks to bold colour palettes and twists on the traditional doublebreasted design. Here, we have the low-down on where this cold weather protector originated and how to style it to perfection!
A-HOY THERE!
References to the ‘pea jacket’ first appeared in American newspapers in 1720, yet many recognise the staple as being worn by sailors in the 1800s to retain body heat. However, the coat was not kept at sea, instead it was adapted by Yves Saint Laurent in his first-ever fashion show in 1962. A representative for the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris says: “This ensemble paved the way for Laurent’s signature style, which borrowed from menswear in order to make women feel comfortable and confident.” The pea coat as we know it today was first rendered in a 30-ounce, navy melton wool and according to the museum representative: “The fact that it was not fitted and covered the hips made it ideal for women who did not feel daring enough to wear trousers.”
Mod women of the 1960s donned the pea coat as a smarter alternative to the stereotypical parka, and the wellknown rock chick, Jane Birkin was often seen wearing her signature shorts and Breton stripe jumper under this wardrobe essential. The item is oh-soversatile thanks to its tapered shape that leaves just enough room for a knitted jumper to nestle underneath.
MAKE YOUR OWN The key to accessorising outerwear is to complement the coat, not the outfit underneath! Complete your look with our Infinity scarf template found via sewmag.co.uk/ free-sewing-patterns
BREAK THE MOULD
The pea coat is usually made in dark colours, but we think the cooler months are grey enough without adding more dim hues to your wardrobe! So select a bright shade of melton wool when stitching your own or, if you’re not ready to fully embrace the sunshine yellows and pillar box reds just yet, why not sew a scarf to add a splash of colour? Pops of playful fringing are all the rage in embellished accessories right now, so add a tassel trim to be on-trend this October. A well-fitted pea coat stops just below the hip and is cosy on your bust and shoulders when buttoned-up, meaning the clothes you wear underneath should complement this form: opt for a hip-length jumper, and wear a skirt which falls several inches below the jacket’s hem to prevent it bunching up. Bear all this in mind, and you’ll be showing-off the coat effortlessly this autumn! 90
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Stitch your own pea coat in this gorgeous burnt orange tweed, £30 per metre, lintondirect.co.uk Gold 25mm button, £4.35 for two
Gold 20mm coat of arms button, £3.85 for three
Gold and crystal button, £4.10 for two
ALL BUTTONS ARE FROM PRYM – VISIT PRYM.COM/EN FOR STOCKISTS
Learn pattern making in minutes with ”The Golden Rule”. It’s easy and fun to use! Watch free video online: www.i-love-dressmaking.com
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