Spain5: Five days exploring the city of Valencia

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THE JOURNALS OF A TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER — SERIES —

SPAIN 5

Five days exploring the city of Valencia



Spain 5

Five days exploring the city of Valencia

THE JOURNALS OF A TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER SERIES


Michael C. Snell is a travel photographer based in Lawrence, Kansas. His images have been published in numerous travel guides, magazines, books and websites worldwide. Michael says, “Travel photography is about capturing what is unique about a place through images of its people, architecture, landscape, food and other details that are telling of the culture.” He shoots on assignment and also licenses stock images through a variety of agencies and outlets.

Each book in the “Journals of a Travel Photographer” Series

looks at one specific photo-gathering trip Michael has made. Some of these trips were of his own making, scheduled specifically to be at the right place at the right time for best light. In other cases, they were press trips arranged for groups of journalists— largely comprised of writers. That type of trip can be challenging to a photographer as they tend to be tightly scheduled with little time at any given location. The trips are intended as introductions or overviews to a place the journalist might not already be familiar with.

Similarly, these books are not intended to be complete, in-depth

studies of a place or culture. Instead, they are a record of a brief journey—an opportunity for the rest of us to “ride along” and experience life as a professional photographer working on location.

To learn more about Michael, his photos, or other books in this series, visit his website at michaelcsnell.com.


above : The City of Arts and Sciences brings a vision of the future to the historic city of Valencia. left :

Just as busy and bustling is the older part of the city, dripping with ornate architecture and delicious food on every corner.

I received an invitation to spend a few days exploring Valencia, Spain, in March of 2016 and I didn’t hesitate to accept. The timing was especially good, as it would be the beginning of Fallas season. The Fallas festival is a celebration that takes place annually in commemoration of St. Joseph and is best known for its towering — if temporary — papier-mâché and wood sculptures that are set alight on the final night of the five-day event. While I wouldn’t be staying long enough to see the fires, I would have several days to take in the best of Valencia, its surroundings and the preparations for the festival. An amazing opportunity. Valencia is located on the Mediterranean in northeastern Spain. It would be a new region of Spain for me and one that has its own style and signature dish: paella. I’d get to know the food, the architecture and the history of the place and I would record as much as possible through my photography. Possibly one of the most unique aspects of the city of Valencia is that they rerouted the river Turia that once flowed through its heart, and redeveloped the old riverbed as a series of gardens and a section called The City of Arts and Sciences that houses a variety of cultural and entertainment venues in some of the most futuristic architecture that I’ve ever seen. I hope you enjoy the photos on the following pages and that they will encourage you to one day make your own exploration of Valencia.

©2016 Michael C. Snell, all rights reserved. Michael C. Snell Photography is a division of Shade of the Cottonwood, L.L.C., a creative services company based in Lawrence, KS.

MICHAELCSNELL.COM



Spain 5 Five days exploring the city of Valencia


March 1-5, 2016:

Valencia


Upon arrival in Valencia, I just had time to get checked in to my hotel before hitting the streets to experience my first Mascletà — a daytime fireworks event that occurs at 2:00 each day during the Fallas festival. The view above is a frame I shot out of the hotel room window before heading out the door.


MascletĂ : Daily fireworks at 2:00 pm Valencia, Spain


The experience of a Mascletà is not something easily conveyed through photographs. Unlike nighttime displays, there’s not much visually beyond smoke, but the sound and physical concussion against your chest is impressive enough to compensate.

next pages :

Pedestrians fill the streets shoulder-to-shoulder to view the fireworks, then quickly disperse once the Mascletà is finished.




Walking the streets of Valencia is a joy, with each turn bringing new suprises. The architecture is ornate but feels jubilant rather than overpowering.


The Archdiocese of Valencia on the left of this pedestrian street, with the Cathedral of Valencia in the background.


On this day, I would only see the exterior of the Valencia Cathedral, or Saint Mary’s Cathedral as it is also known. There are multiple entrances but this one, the Door of the Apostles, is particularly interesting as it is here that the Water Court meets each thursday to settle irrigation disputes.

Saint Mary’s Cathedral Valencia



A beautiful upper-story pedestrian arch connects the Basilica de la Virgen de los Desamparados with the Valencia Cathedral.



left :

A reflecting pool behind the Valencia Cathedral has a glass bottom that reveals Roman ruins below — ­ part of the Almoina Archaeological Centre.

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The Palacio de Marques de Dos Aguas dates back to the 15th century but owes its current appearance to 18th and 19th century modifications. It now houses a ceramics museum.





Plaza Redondo: The Round Square Valencia, Spain

A 19th century fish market, Plaza Redondo was restored in 2012 and now features craft shops and tapas bars while retaining the unique, circular form of the original “square.�


The palm trees lining Valencia’s plazas remind visitors that the Mediterranean Sea is never far away.



Your next snack is also never far away when you’re in Valencia. Ice creams of every flavor, or — better yet — pumpkin fritters with thick, dark, hot chocolate. Buñuelos de calabaza in Spanish, these pumpkin fritters are typical of Valencia and seasonal around the time of Fallas.


My first day comes to a close in Valencia and I’m rewarded with a brilliant sunset outside my hotel room window (right). Several stories below, the occasional car navigates a narrow street (above).



Not a bad view from the hotel’s breakfast room, overlooking the historic district with the mountains in the distance.


Taking to the streets again, I encounter an obedient “parked� dog, and more incredible architecture on my way to the Central Market.


Central Market Valencia, Spain


I love visiting markets when I travel. They are always such a great way to see what’s produced locally and consumed locally. Valencia’s market has the bonus of being in a beautiful, spacious building that was completed in 1928.





Leaving the market, I noticed this man inside a small shop, hand-painting decorative fans.



Next on the agenda was learning to make authentic Valencian paella at the Escuela de Arroces y Paella Valenciana.

Paella School Valencia, Spain




To burn off lunch, it’s time to see Valencia from a different mode of transportation: bicycle. After a few stops to take in more historic architecture, we made our way to a decidedly more modern part of the city.


The buldings on these pages are part of the University of Valencia’s Department of Culture.




The City of Arts and Sciences Valencia, Spain



After a short bike ride, we arrived at what had once been the Turia River which was re-routed after severe flooding in 1957. The riverbed was then converted into a series of parks and the City of Arts and Sciences which resembles something from the future.


On the left is The Hemisfèric, housing and IMAX theater, and the El Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia (the opera house) in the distance. On this page is the L’Àgora — another concert and event venue.



The buildings of the City of Arts and Sciences are — understandably — often used as backdrops for films and photoshoots when a futuristic setting is needed.


L’Umbracle disguises a parking garage and shelters a large garden space above.

right :

El Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe is an interactive science museum.




El Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe featured a temporary exhibit of the models for this year’s Fallas sculptures, called ninots. As I wouldn’t be in Valencia long enough to see the end of the Fallas display, this was as close as I would get to seeing the enormous sculptures (some are five stories tall) that are set on fire in the streets at the conclusion of the festival.



You feel as you are leaving the future behind when you leave the City of Arts and Sciences and once again pass through one of Valencia’s old city gates.



Saint Mary’s Cathedral Valencia, Spain


Saint Mary’s Cathedral Valencia, Spain

The following morning it was finally time to get a glimpse inside of the Valencia Cathedral.


The Holy Chalice chapel is said by many to display the true Holy Grail.



Just east of the old city of Valencia lies Malvarrosa Beach and the Mediterranean Sea.


The seaside restaurant La Pepica is said to have been a favorite spot of Ernest Hemingway’s when he lived in Valencia.




The Albufera Valencia, Spain

Driving south from Valencia with the Mediterranean on your left, another large body of water soon emerges on your right. The Albufera is a fresh water lagoon, separated from the sea by a thin strip of land.



The Parador El Saler is a hotel located on the strip of land that lies between the Albufera and the Mediterranean. Balconies offer views of the sunrise over the sea as seen on the left.



Venturing a tiny bit further from Valencia to learn about the Tiger Nuts (being grown at the left) used in the popular drink Horchata, and to have a more rural experience involving another paella lunch.


Paella at Barraca Toni Montoliu Meliana (outside Valencia), Spain


In the rural suburbs of Valencia, it is a treat to meet chef Toni Montoliu (and his tiny dogs), source produce with him, and watch him make his own famous version of paella. His patatas bravas were also quite memorable.


Paella ingredients, awaiting Toni Montoliu’s special touch.

When I mentioned how cute and small Toni’s dog was, he made a point of going to get his even smaller one to show me.


While sourcing fresh fruit and vegetables for lunch, we also stopped to see a typical farmhouse of the area. At right is the outdoor dining area of Toni’s restaurant.



Back at the Parador El Saler, there is a short path that crosses the golf course and ends up at this beautiful beach. With a couple of free hours, it was the perfect spot to watch the sunset and enjoy the Mediterranean.




Preparing for the Festival Valencia

On my last day in Valencia, I got to spend a little more time in the old section of the city and to see people going about their day, getting ready for the Fallas festival.


I also spotted a couple of Falleras in their traditional dress. I would love to have stayed for the spectacular, fiery finale of the Fallas festival, but I would have to save that for next time.


THE JOURNALS OF A TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER SERIES

M ICHAE LCSNE L L .C OM

technical notes :

The following is a list of the equipment I took with me on this trip and that produced all of the photos in this book. All images were RAW captures, processed in Lightroom CC. The book itself was designed in Adobe InDesign CC and printed using Blurb.com.

Thanks to the Tourist Office of Spain in Chicago, Turismo Valencia, Paradores de Turismo, and everyone else who worked so hard to make this trip such a success.

camera bodies :

To learn more about Michael C. Snell’s photography, or to find out about other books in this series, visit michaelcsnell.com

Nikon D700 and Nikon D7000 Nikkor 17-35mm and Tamron 45mm, 90mm, 16-300mm and 150-600mm lenses. lenses :



I received an invitation to spend a few days exploring Valencia, Spain, in March of 2016 and I didn’t hesitate to accept. The timing was especially good, as it would be the beginning of Fallas season. The Fallas festival is a celebration that takes place annually in commemoration of St. Joseph and is best known for its towering — if temporary — papiermâché and wood sculptures that are set alight on the final night of the five-day event. While I wouldn’t be staying long enough to see the fires, I would have several days to take in the best of Valencia, its surroundings and the preparations for the festival. An amazing opportunity. Valencia is located on the Mediterranean in northeastern Spain. It would be a new region of Spain for me and one that has its own style and signature dish: paella. I’d get to know the food, the architecture and the history of the place and I would record as much as possible through my photography. ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Michael C. Snell is a travel photographer based in Lawrence, Kansas. Shooting on assignment and for stock, his images have appeared worldwide in a variety of travel guides, magazines, websites, brochures and books. He is a photographer member of the Society of American Travel Writers. ABOUT THE SERIES: In this series of books, Michael shares images he made during his photographic travels along with behind-the-scenes notes on their capture. The images are arranged more or less chronologically, recording the images that were made day by day and giving some small insight into what life can be like when you’re on the road, and working. It’s only glamorous some of the time.

©2016 Michael C. Snell, all rights reserved. Michael C. Snell Photography is a division of Shade of the Cottonwood, L.L.C., a creative services company based in Lawrence, Kansas.

MICHAEL C SNELL PHOTOGRAPHY

assignment & stock travel images

WWW.MICHAELCSNELL.COM


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