Spain6: Six days exploring Galicia and the Way of St. James

THE JOURNALS OF A TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER — SERIES —

SPAIN 6

Six days exploring Galicia and the Way of St. James

Spain 6

Six days exploring Galicia and the Way of St. James

THE JOURNALS OF A TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER SERIES

Michael C. Snell is a travel photographer based in Lawrence, Kansas. His images have been published in numerous travel guides, magazines, books and websites worldwide. Michael says, “Travel photography is about capturing what is unique about a place through images of its people, architecture, landscape, food and other details that are telling of the culture.” He shoots on assignment and also licenses stock images through a variety of agencies and outlets.

Each book in the “Journals of a Travel Photographer” Series

looks at one specific photo-gathering trip Michael has made.

Some of these trips were of his own making, scheduled specifically to be at the right place at the right time for best light. In other cases, they were press trips arranged for groups of journalists— largely comprised of writers. That type of trip can be challenging to a photographer as they tend to be tightly scheduled with little time at any given location. The trips are intended as introductions or overviews to a place the journalist might not already be familiar with.

Similarly, these books are not intended to be complete, in-depth

studies of a place or culture. Instead, they are a record of a brief journey—an opportunity for the rest of us to “ride along” and experience life as a professional photographer working on location.

To learn more about Michael, his photos, or other books in this series, visit his website at michaelcsnell.com.

above : A stained glass window in the Monastery of Samos, an active Benedictine Monastery and a stop along the Way of St. James in Galicia, Spain. left :

A pilgrim displays her compostella, a certificate of accomplishment, and her pilgrim’s passport showing all of the stamps she received at various stops along the Camino de Santiago.

The Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James, is a pilgrimage route — actually a collection of pilgrimage routes — leading to the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela in the Galica region of northwestern Spain where it is said that the remains of the saint are buried.

Few pilgrims were making the journey by the 1980s but in 1987, the Camino was declared the first European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe and it was also named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Popularity surged again and numbers have been steadily increasing to the point that, in 2016, over a quarter of a million made the journey.

One of the most well-known routes is the French Way through northern Spain. It was the portion of this route that lies within the boundaries of Galicia that I would explore in July of 2016. I would also visit several sites along the Portuguese route from the south and the route west from Santiago to Cape Finisterre — known as “the end of the world.”

I would not earn a “compostella” — you must walk at least 100km for that — but I would at least get a taste of the experience and see some of the traditional sights along the way during my six days in Spain.

You’ll find much more information about the Camino via other sources but, hopefully, this collection of photos from my visit will whet your appetite to learn more and maybe walk the Camino yourself one day.

©2017 Michael C. Snell, all rights reserved.

Michael C. Snell Photography is a division of Shade of the Cottonwood, L.L.C., a creative services company based in Lawrence, KS.

MICHAELCSNELL.COM

Spain 6 Six days exploring Galicia and the Way of St. James

July 5-11, 2016:

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

I arrived where most people finish when traveling the Way of St. James — at Santiago de Compostela’s spectacular Cathedral (left). I was lucky enough to be put up in a beautiful Parador situated on the same plaza. Paradors are a State-run family of hotels that are often located in historic properties.

The image above is the view from my room at the Parador de Santiago de Compostela. If I leaned out and looked to the right, I could see the cathedral spires. The photo is actually the second frame I shot on this trip.

Parador de santiago de compostela santiago de compostela, Spain

left :

Construction of the Parador de Santiago de Compostela began in 1486 at the direction of Isabella I and Ferdinand II who were also responsible for making many other improvements to the Camino. The plateresque entrance shown here faces the Plaza Obradoiro and the Cathedral.

The Parador de Santiago de Compostela was originally a hostal and hospital for pilgrims who had just completed the Camino de Santiago, also known as the Way of St. James.

Many Paradores are located in historic structures and offer the opportunity to temporarily live in another time (but with modern conveniences). Above is the ceiling of one of the large dining rooms located in the Parador de Santiago de Compostela.

The Parador’s courtyards offer opportunities for exploration as well as overflow seating space for the hotel’s cafes and bars.

Located in what were once stables, the Restaurante dos Reis — which translates to Restaurant of the King and Queen, referring specifically to Ferdinand and Isabella — is located in the lower level of the Parador de Santiago de Compostela.

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One of the upper story hallways that leads to the Parador guest rooms and a view of the city from a balcony overlooking the plaza.

After exploring the hotel, I spent the remaining hours of my first day in Santiago exploring its streets and gaining a greater appreciation of her architecture.

July 6-7, 2016:

The French Way

Day two started where the Camino’s French Way enters Galicia at O Cebreiro.

Pilgrims arrive here on foot, bicycle or even horseback.

The last bull passes by before entering the bullring, followed by one of the steers. These two shots were taken from a street-level postion I had for my second of three encierros.

Monastery of Samos Samos, Spain

Founded in the 6th century, the Monastery of Samos was a school of Theology and Philosophy. After suffering two fires and being twice rebuilt, it is still an active Benedictine Monastery.

A picturesque cemetery across the road from the Albergue Monasterio de La Magdalena in Sarria, Spain.

Scenes along the Camino as it folows RĂşa Corga do Asno and RĂşa Maior through the town of Sarria, Spain

The temple-fortress Church of San Xoån in Portomarin was moved piece by piece to higher ground when the Belesar reservoir was built so that it wouldn’t be lost when the waters rose.

Church of San Xoรกn PortoMarin, Spain

Pambre Castle Pambre, Spain

Built in the 14th century, Pambre Castle is one of the best preserved medieval fortresses in Galicia. It is currently being restored.

Another important and impressive site along the French Way in Galicia is the Church of Vilar de Donas which was built in the 12th century.

Church of Vilar de Donas Palas de Rei, Spain

In Melide, I had the chance to walk a short rural portion of the Camino. Beginning near the Church of Santa MarĂ­a de Melide, above, where I saw one of my first really good examples of a hĂłrreo, or stone granary, for which the area is so well known.

The path was well-kept and extremely peaceful in this area, passing through fields and woodlands and crossing a stream by way of this wonderfully rustic stone bridge.

Next we stopped at another albergue where pilgrims can spend the night affordably and take advantage of the nearby restaurants or just cool off in a stream in the shade of an old stone bridge.

Albergue de Ribadiso da Baixo a CoruĂąa, Spain

Monte do Gozo, the Hill of Joy, is the spot where pilgrims on the French Way get their first view of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

The “finish line� for many pilgrims is the Praza do Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Seen opposite, the spires cast their shadows over the adjacent Pazo de Raxoi, a palace built in 1766. It is now the seat of the City Council.

The route to the roof of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela provides a good overhead view of the nave.

Cathedral attics are evidently also perfect for storing things. This one stored several giants, awaiting their next procession.

From the roof of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, said to be the burial place of Saint James the Great, one of the apostles of Jesus.

More views from atop the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

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Interior of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and the swinging of the Botafumeiro.

July 9, 2016:

CAMINO PORTUGUES

Next we traced another pilgrim route to Santiago, this time from the south and Portugal. First stop of the morning was the beautiful city of Pontevedra on the River LĂŠrez.

Making our way through the streets of Pontevedra toward the spires of the Chapel of the Pilgrims.

left :

Iván Fandiño prepares for his first of two bullfights on this afternoon during the 2014 Festival of San Fermín.

The Chapel of the Pilgrims was built on the pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela in 1778.

In plan, it is shaped like a scallop shell, the symbol of the pilgrims on the Way of St. James.

Passing Ria de Vigo, an estuary, on the way to Vigo, Spain.

Gaita galega, or Galician bagpipes, are a sign of the celtic heritage of Galicia.

The Church of Santa Maria in Vigo.

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The view from Monterreal Castle, now home to the Parador de Baiona in Baiona, Spain

The Parador de Baiona and the beach that sits outside of the castle walls.

The Celtic Castro of Santa Tegra near the town of A Guarda is a Celtic village thought to be over 2000 years old. Its ruins were discovered in 1913..

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Cathedral of St. Mary at Tui on the border with Portugal.

Cathedral of Saint Mary Tui, spain

July 10, 2016:

CAMINO Fisterra

Another hรณrreo, or stone granary, on the outskirts of Ponte Maceira.

On my last day in Galicia, we would follow the route from Santiago to Finisterre, the end of the world, where many pilgrims burn their clothes to signify the end of their pilgrimage. This bridge, marked with the scallop shell to guide pilgrims, is in Ponte Maceira, just west of Santiago de Compostela.

The bridge in Ponte Maceira was built over the foundations of a 13th century Roman bridge and spans the river Tambre with five arches.

Negreira A Coruña, Spain

The Noble House of Cotón in Negreira.

Men riding into Negreira on horseback, passing through the city gate near the Noble House of Cotรณn.

A great example of an hรณrreo, this one built entirely of stone with a tile roof.

A sculpture titled “A Ferida” (The Wound) by Alberto Bañuelos, overlooks the coastline at Muxia on the Coast of Death.

Nosa Señora da Barca (Our Lady of the Boat) Church, and the Atlantic.

Nosa SeĂąora da Barca (Our Lady of the Boat) Church on the Coast of Death. The surf from the Atlantic has been known to wash through its doors in rough weather.

Selfies at Cape Finesterre, also called “the end of the world.” It is the westernmost point in Spain.

THE JOURNALS OF A TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER SERIES

M ICHAE LCSNE L L .C OM

technical notes :

The following is a list of the equipment I took with me on this trip and that produced all of the photos in this book. All images were RAW captures, processed in Adobe Lightroom. The book itself was designed in Adobe InDesign and printed using Blurb.com.

Thanks to the Tourist Office of Spain in Chicago, Turismo de Galicia (Galicia Regional Tourist Board), Santiago de Compostela Turismo (Santiago de Compostela Tourist Board), Paradores de Turismo, and everyone else who worked so hard to make this trip such a success.

camera bodies :

To learn more about Michael C. Snell’s photography, or to find out about other books in this series, visit michaelcsnell.com

Nikon D700 and Nikon D7000 Nikkor 17-35mm, Rokinon 85mm, Tamron 16-300mm zoom and 45mm prime. lenses :

The Camino de Santiago, or the Way of St. James, is a collection of pilgrimage routes leading to the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela in the Galica region of northwestern Spain where it is said that the remains of the saint are buried.

One of the best known routes is the French Way through northern Spain. It was the portion of this route that lies within the boundaries of Galicia that I would explore in July of 2016. I would also visit several sites along the Portuguese route from the south and the route west from Santiago to Cape Finisterre — known as “the end of the world.”

I would not earn a “compostella” — you must walk at least 100km for that — but I would at least get a taste of the experience and see some of the traditional sights along the way during my six days in Spain.

You can find much more information about the Camino via other sources but, hopefully, this collection of photos from my visit will whet your appetite to learn more.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Michael C. Snell is a travel photographer based in Lawrence, Kansas.

Shooting on assignment and for stock, his images have appeared worldwide in a variety of travel guides, magazines, websites, brochures and books. He is a photographer member of the Society of American Travel Writers.

ABOUT THE SERIES: In this series of books, Michael shares images he made during his photographic travels along with behind-the-scenes notes on their capture. The images are arranged more or less chronologically, recording the images that were made day by day and giving some small insight into what life can be like when you’re on the road, and working. It’s only glamorous some of the time.

©2017 Michael C. Snell, all rights reserved.

Michael C. Snell Photography is a division of Shade of the Cottonwood, L.L.C., a creative services company based in Lawrence, Kansas.

MICHAEL C SNELL PHOTOGRAPHY

assignment & stock travel images

WWW.MICHAELCSNELL.COM