renew.upcycling.com Issue#38 Nov, 2016
How Succulent: Hypertufa Pots with a Personal touch Pg. 5
Upycling
Pg. 11
Turning Trash Into Valuable Products Pg. 16
Crafting Comeback Pg. 33
Made & Re made Pg. 24
Finding ways to infuse eco-friendly methods into your daily lifestyle is a great way to help out the planet, and these chic upcycled fashion designs are here to showcase that recyclable clothing can be just as stylish as any other haute couture label. From prom dresses made entirely from household objects to soda pop cans turned into stylish gowns, a new chic upcycled fashion style showcases a variety of different types of material, demonstrating that even the most mundane object can be turned into a chic ensemble.
How succulent Hypertufa Pots with a Personal Touch
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Years ago at a flower show, a group of rustic garden containers caught my eye. They were made from a stonelike material known as hypertufa, which mimics a type of rock. I was intrigued to learn that the planters were composed of just three accessible, inexpensive substances: perlite, Portland cement, and peat moss. When I realized pots so impressive could be shaped using basic molds, they became even more appealing. It’s not often that a process as rudimentary as making mud pies yields such a sophisticated result.
structure is created by a disposable insert. Pour the mixture to coat the bottom of the outer mold to reach a 1-inch depth for smaller vessels or a 2-inch depth for larger ones. Continue adding the mixture between vessels and packing into the bottom. You will need to weigh down your inserts so that they will stay in place while the concrete dries. Cover the mold with plastic and let it set. It is best to let the concrete set and dry for three days to avoid any chance of it crumbling when removing it from the mold. And last but not least, a succulent. There are some basic characteristics that a potting mix for cacti and succulents should possess. Perhaps the most important characteristic is that the soil should drain very well. The best way to achieve this is by adding a mixture of one-third compost, one-third horticultural-grade sand, and one-third grit. The hypertufa pot is nothing without the perfect little plant to perfectly complement any living space, office space, or pass off as an adorable home made gift.
When working with this type of project you will need various materials that can be recycled from old projects or even “garbage” from around you home. The hypertufa rock is made of a mixture of quick dry cement, pearlite, and peat moss. To mix these items you are going to want a bucket large enough for no over flow and a little extra room for additinal water as well. When you begin to mix these Brittney Hydrick make sure you are protecting your hands with latex or plastic gloves that you can dispose of after the project is finished. Use a disposable stirring item strong enough to mix through the cement. You can stir in masonry stain if desired. To form the desired shape of the hypertufa pot you will need a mold. You can use practically any shape or size container to pour concrete in for this project, from milk cartons to weaved baskets, to bowls: get creative with it! The internal bowl
Now,
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Making Design
Designer, adviser and author William McDonough wants us to think differently about how we design our products, buildings and urban environments. McDonough, who often sports a bow tie, has the look of a professor. He speaks softly even as he discusses some very weighty topics. “Design is the first signal of human intention,” he told me in a recent interview, “and if our intention is to destroy the planet, we’re doing a great job.” Instead, he proposes the design process should align with our human values, always striving to improve the world for future generations. “Design should be regenerative, and always consider what’s next” for the materials used.
CRADLE TO CRADLE
McDonough, and his partner, German chemist Michael Braungart, first articulated these concepts in their 2002 book, Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way we Make Things. They suggested that all materials used in manufacturing and commercial processes should be viewed as nutrients, either biological or technical. Using these nutrients, manufacturers could create “completely healthful products that are either returned to the soil or flow back to industry forever”, they wrote. The book became an influential work on sustainable development and green design. In 2007, Time Magazine hailed McDonough and Braungart as a “heroes of the planet”. Then came the Cradle to Cradle certification system, which evaluates a product’s materials (down to the molecular level), energy and water usage, and social factors involved in making and using it. More than 400 products have been certified, from bricks to babies’ nappies to shipping containers used by the United States Postal Service.
MORE GOOD NOT LESS BAD
Often blocking attempts at upcycling are some of the widely held maxims of the sustainability movement, such as “eco-efficiency”, he suggests. The quest for efficiency, while well-intentioned, is often misplaced, believes McDonough, because it “encourages us to stick with what is poorly designed – just to try to do less of it”. Instead, we should be shifting our attention to what’s effective. “Peter Drucker pointed out that management is doing thingthe right way and being efficient, but leadership is doing the right thing and being effective. So we first need to ask ourselves ‘what is the right thing to do according to our values?’ and then decide the best way to do it.” Effectiveness and efficiency combined would allow us to do the right things the right way. McDonough points to the compact fluorescent light bulb as a product that uses energy more efficiently, but shouldn’t be considered an effective design because it contains toxins like mercury, making it difficult to recycle. As he puts it: “One problem has been solved while another has been created.” Current attempts at making recyclable products often miss the mark as well, he says. Tech giant Apple, for example, claims that its latest computers and tablets contain highly recyclable materials like aluminium and glass, but because these materials are glued together inside the device, they are practically impossible to disassemble and reuse. Designing products for disassembly is a good start, but making the concept of upcycling widespread will also require rethinking many of our business models. He suggests a shift from owning products toward leasing them, so you only pay for the service the product offers. “I don’t need to own all of these chemicals, but I do need the service that they provide when combined into a computer or smartphone or carpet,” McDonough says. While Cradle to Cradle provided the principles of their design philosophy, McDonough sees the new book as an “evocation” and “a call to action”, highlighting design leaders that illustrate the upcycling credo. Once again using the medium as the message, the new book is made from a biological nutrient. “You could boil it down and feed it to your grandchildren,” he says. He also suggested that his critics could safely burn the book without releasing toxic emissions. For those who aspire to become “upcyclists”, McDonough advises they should be driven by human values, not metrics, and focus on constant improvement. And to the well-worn mantra of reuse, reduce, recycle, he proposes adding REDESIGN, RENEW, & REGENERATE. He acknowledges that the task is not an easy one. “It’s going to take all of us, and it’s going to take forever, but that’s the point,” he concludes. Jim Witkin renew.upcycling.com
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Trash
Can be Valuable Product
Let’s say you throw a boomerang and it comes back to you improved -- better looking, stronger, faster, worth more money. The seemingly magical result is the aim of a very real and rapidly growing movement called upcycling, a variation of recycling. Its philosophy: The stuff you throw away shouldn’t just return to the marketplace to be reused, it should come back enhanced. Upcycling is one of several different ways entrepreneurs and consumers are responding to the problem of trash. Americans throw out an awful lot of stuff. From home closets alone, they throw away 26 billion pounds of shoes, textiles and apparel every year, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The figure is projected to increase 40 percent in the next six years. Americans in 2011 threw away 1.8 million tons of toasters and other small appliances, the EPA says, plus 3.4 million tons of consumer electronics. Each year, Andy Ruben bought his daughter new shinguards for soccer, stashing the old gear and waiting for the replacements to labor through the delivery system to his door. But as he watched local girls outgrow their own sports equipment, Ruben realized that the items he wanted were gathering dust in garages and closets around his neighborhood. “Our whole retail model over the last 50 years has focused on keeping the industrial machine churning out items,” said Ruben, who until 2007 had an up-close view as the head of sustainability at Wal-Mart Stores Inc., the king of mass-produced goods. “But if my friend already has shinguards that he’s not using, I don’t need to buy them for myself.” renew.upcycling.com
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Transforming the Market So Ruben and environmentalist Adam Werbach dreamed up Yerdle, a website they launched during last year’s Black Friday shopping swarm by Andy Ruben, former head of sustainability for Walmart; Yerdle doesn’t take trash and improve it. Instead, it matches unwanted goods with people wanting them, so that the toaster or sports jacket that would have landed in a landfill winds up on someone else’s back or on their kitchen counter. Members use the platform to offer underutilized goods, clothing, electronics, even pianos, to friends and acquaintances free of charge. Ruben said the setup, which now has 18,000 participants, is less anonymous than Craigslist and more eco-minded than Facebook. The young San Francisco company is one of the newest manifestations of what’s known as collective consumerism, or the circular or sharing economy. Instead of trying to shrink a product’s environmental footprint from the production side by making it with less material, advocates, especially clothing and shoe companies, are trying to extend its usefulness on the consumer end.Each year, Americans trash a prodigious portion of their closets: 26 billion pounds of apparel, textiles and footwear, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. The amount thrown out by consumers surged 40% in 2009 from 1999 and is expected to zoom up another 40% by 2019, the agency said. The effort to scale it all back has been around for years via thrift stores, clothing swaps and resale shops. In 23 years of operation, Nike Inc.’s Reuse-a-Shoe program has turned 28 million pairs of used athletic footwear into coatings for playing courts, running tracks and other sports surfaces. Despite its do-gooder glow, the circular economy isn’t free of detractors. They say it encourages “green washing,” a phenomenon in which companies claim to be eco-friendly but end up contributing the same amount of waste as their peers or more. Others are skeptical of the movement’s profit-earning potential. Even Yerdle’s Ruben, who anticipates $1.3 million in angel investor funding by year-end, said he’s still experimenting with how to make money. Potential tactics include paid transactions between users, from which Yerdle would take a commission, or moving services with a fee, he said. Still, collective consumerism has gained traction as more companies tout quality over quantity amid rising textile prices and fast-fashion fatigue. There’s also the problem of tragic accidents in foreign sweatshops, such as the recent Bangladeshi factory building collapse that killed more than 1,000 people, many of them sewing garments for Western retailers. In addition, global warming and other environmental concerns have piqued Americans’ curiosity about their consumption patterns. Many major retailers are starting with the easiest tactic: recycling. 17
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H&M started its Long Live Fashion program this year, giving customers a 15%-off voucher for each bag of old clothing brought into stores. Garments too ratty to be worn are reincarnated as new material such as insulation and carpet padding. Intact garb is sent abroad as secondhand goods. Even with discounts and other incentives, 64% of Americans don’t want to drive more than five miles to drop off their old clothing or shoes, according to USAgain, which recycles textiles. Many prefer the convenience of a nearby trash can. So some companies are trying to add extra value to wornout fabrics and unwanted scraps by using them to create products that improve on the original, a concept known as the upcycling revolution. A few companies now believe the solution is to eliminate apparel waste starting at the source, by urging consumers to shop less and take better care of their clothing. Patagonia, as part of its Common Threads initiative, has helped customers repair more than 30,000 items since January 2012 and plans to introduce do it yourself repairs attached to products in the future. And since the holiday shopping season, the brand has used a billboard in New York to urge customers to “don’t buy what you don’t need.”
There’s a similar philosophy of “fewer, better things” at San Francisco e-commerce company Cuyana, which asks consumers to carefully curate their closets with a few key pieces instead of buying on impulse, uses a strategy that co-founder Shilpa Shah calls “the retail version of farm-to-table,” Cuyana goes to a single country to source fabric and manufacture garments for each collection. The strategy helps lower transportation costs, enabling the brand to keep prices low while maintaining quality. “We’ve always believed in longevity, and we’ve always been anti-fast fashion. We’re not preaching minimalism. We just want our products to go further. We are turning your trash into valuable products to be used to advocate a collective sense of consumerism throughout communities nationally to oppose waste. Jaqueline Massena
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Ecouture Hits The Runway
In a world still churning out trendy throw-away fashion pieces at breakneck speed, the idea of upcycled or refashioned apparel can be an anomaly. But it is a continuously growing trend and is one of the most sustainable things people can do in fashion. As upcycling makes use of already existing pieces, it often uses few resources in its creation and actually keeps ‘unwanted’ items out of the waste stream. There are more textiles produced in the world today than can be used — many of the large clothing chains can produce as many as a half a billion garments a year. And what happens to those clothes after they have fulfilled their ‘useful’ lives? About 14.3 million tons of textiles were sent to the landfill in 2012, or around 5.7 percent of total municipal solid waste generation in the U.S., according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Fashion is trying to catch a wave upon the sand, it’s changing, morphing, and emerging into something new. Whether that change is the trend of the moment or toward moresustainable business practices, fashion is a powerful force in today’s age. Not only are consumers affected by what is currently available on the racks, but also influenced by the decisions that companies make. Like Edit’d, designed by Australian designer Helene Ang, which takes vintage and reclaimed fabrics to create brand-new, one-of-a-kind pieces. It’s this kind of upcycled fashion that is becoming the item to have, because each item is unique and made with an ethical consciousness. With fashion as profound as this, you never need worry about wearing the same dress to a party again.
“It’s unbelievable how much gets thrown into the landfill. It’s shocking, frankly!” exclaimed local artist and fashion designer Muir Hughes. Hughes is a member of the fashion-arts collective Chikoko. If not discarded as trash, unwanted apparel is often donated to thrift stores. Though a good step toward avoiding the landfill, this is not as beneficial as people think only about 20 to 30 percent of donated clothing is actually re-sold. And the drastic increase in the volume of secondhand clothing has driven down its value in the past 15 years meaning that charity shop stores are now filled with cheap fashion and junky basics instead of vintage gems. In addition, massive amounts of donated clothing that are not deemed as ‘re-sellable’ in the U.S. are shipped to developing countries, inundating them renew.upcycling.com
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Your clothes have an afterlife
Embrace it with unnecessary goods that stifle any emerging economic development in textiles. While many people may have the idea that they are helping clothe the poor in these countries, access to the Internet and cell phones has made many of these countries more fashionforward recently, and they may have no interest in our American cast-offs. Since this model relies on a waste economy where instead of mending clothes or leasing clothes, items are bought and discarded, what is going to happen when this is no longer an option? If you haven’t heard of upcycled clothing, you will soon. Just last month, the International Herald Tribune’s Suzy Menkes dubbed “upcycling” the buzzword among London’s sartorial circles. When a fashion heavy like Menkes speaks, the entire industry snaps to attention. For the uninitiated, upcycling is a way of recycling textile 25
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waste, such as fabric swatches, production off-cuts,and end-ofroll leftovers, to create a product of higher quality.(This is opposed to “recycling” or “downcycling,” where textiles are refashioned into a product of diminished quality.) The undisputed queen of upcycling, From Somewhere designer Orsola de Castro recently meted out advice to a group of emerging Hong Kong designers at an EcoChic Design Academy seminar, part of the EcoChic Design Award organized by Redress to address China’s mounting landfill problem. Upcycling can be done using either pre-consumer or post-consumer waste or a combination of the two. Pre-consumer waste is produced while items are being manufactured (such as the pieces of fabric leftover after cutting out a pattern) and post-consumer waste results from the finished product reaching the end of its useful life for the consumer. “Manufacturers and designers in the mainstream fashion industry discard on average 15 percent of materials en route to production.” One Man’s Trash is Another Man’s Treasure.
Upcycling stops adding stuff to a world that is already overwhelmed with material things. It also reuses materials that may otherwise end up in the landfill in creative and innovative ways, producing original often one-of-a-kind items from what many consider to be waste. It is a way for companies and designers to be more efficient with leftover materials such as upholstery scraps or vintage textiles and to give new life to worn-out jeans and tattered T-shirts. “As we move into the ’90s revival, grunge will be back, and upcycling will fit that look perfectly. I predict modern upcycling will actually look “upcycled,” but with a much edgier feel.” Orsola de Castro, Co-founder of Estethica, From Somewhere, and Reclaim to Wear; via Ecouterre’s 37 Eco-fashion Predictions for 2014. Whether as everyday apparel or runway exhibition pieces, upcycling can challenge cultural codes, questioning what we consider to be trash versus fashion or beautiful versus ugly. For some it can also be a connection to our heritage, incorporating vintage clothing or using a family heirloom to create an original piece preserving a bit of history. The world of upcycling has exploded in the past few years, and there is a plethora of inspirational design in this facet of eco-fashion. An excellent summary of many designers throughout the world can be found in the newly released book “ReFashioned” by Sass Brown. To see some great examples on the runway, Redress Raleigh’s annual Spring eco-fashion show often features innovative designers using upcycling in their collections. Mother/daughter team Zass Design creates gorgeous jewelry from overlooked materials. And Little Grey Line takes old men’s work shirts and remakes them into adorable dresses for little girls. This coming spring’s show will also feature a North Carolina State University student duo using denim remnants, a Durham designer creating chic handbags made from plastic bags, another NCSU student shows how simple white T-shirts can become an elegant wedding dress. As consumers start realizing the devastating effects of fast fashion, they will begin looking for innovative ways to change their wardrobe. Upcycled apparel can be a part of this revolution, helping people make meaningful choices with their clothing while appreciating the history of the industry. Beth Stewart is the co-founder and Strategic Director of Redress, a company that connects and champions eco-conscious designers and companies through event planning and marketing. Stewart has a passion for environmental consciousness within the fashion industry and looks forward to the day when people don’t brag about fast fashion scores. They key factor is design says Luise Barsch, co-founder of the Berlin based label aluc: “If the design is good, people will go for it.” As for making it easier, with charities like TRAID and FARA in trendy areas of London, selling original and affordable upcycled collections, upcycled brands are growing more. The materials used in upcycled fashion have an interesting story. This is where the desirability of upcycled fashion lies, explains Robinson. In contrast, Orsola de Castro, co-founder and co-curator of Estethica describes fast fashion and mass produced luxury as “empty vehicles.” While Castro acknowledges that factories aren’t yet prepared to upscale upcycled fashion, she’s optimistic for the future: It is only a matter of time before the supply chain will find ways to incorporate it, widely, in their production facilities. After all, 20 years ago, factories in Sri Lanka, China, Bangladesh and Vietnam were just supplying clothes - now most of them have their own highly efficient design studios and sampling units. There will always be waste in the textile industry (pre-consumer and postconsumer) due to the production and design process, writes Claire Dawson, TRAID’s retail product manager. Fabric orders are placed before design is complete and therefore if the design or order size changes, you’re left with renew.upcycling.com
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Natural
Sustainable
Beautiful Doilies, moss, brightly colored polyester blankets, and single-use plastic bags were all featured in the eyecatching wares that models donned on the runway. Hughes estimates that upward of 1,200 people attended the event. And the Chikoko designers, along with a dozen or more other local artists, will team up for their annual Bizarre Bazaar, the holidaymarket event that features upcycled and original fashion and gifts, all locally made. “There has been and has continued to be a really strong do-it-yourself movement,” Hughes observed. waste. We can encourage retailers to track their pre consumer waste and integrate it into future designs, but there will always be something to work with. As Barsch puts it: “For us, upcycling is all just about using what is left over from wherever.” Some of her top tips for designers seeking to reduce their waste footprint: Always know what is on offer before you start designing. Follow your own waste stream. No scrap is too small! Ugly can be beautiful too. Finishing is the key to good design Today’s fashion industry is increasingly overproducing garments and textiles, de Castro says. “What is being thrown away into landfill is often beautiful and usable for designers who can approach such materials in a creative way,” she adds.“It’s hard to find a particular thing that you want to incorporate into a design, but it’s not hard to find good, useable materials,” said Hughes. “So oftentimes our work will be guided by what we find rather than what we think we want to find.” This year, Chikoko members relied on local dumpsters, thrift stores, Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore, and their own closets, “using materials that already exist in the world,” as Hughes put it, to pull together the highly anticipated fashion show. The results were at times bizarre and outlandish, like the puffy outfit made from packaging materials that prevented the model from being able to put down her arms, and at other times, remarkably wearable, as was a tight-fitting strapless dress made out of burlap coffee bags. 27
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As it turns out, a growing number of local shops also support the DIY ethic by selling upcycled wares, often made by the growing number of local designers. The grandmother of the eco-fashion shops in Chico, 360 Ecotique, has been around just 3 1/2 years, and is continually expanding its vision of environmentally forward fashion. The popular downtown boutique was voted the Best Place to Buy Vintage Threads in 2012, nationwide against Chikoko. 360 Ecotique, which had the unpurchased items from the Chikoko show for sale until last week, will begin a new chapter in its life next month by offering a fashionbased quarterly ‘zine. Each issue—offered for free and paid for by local companies that place ads—will focus on a particular fashion era and how to wear clothes from that era today, starting off with the Mod era. “The community definitely is coming out and showing support of local designers and artists,” said Hughes, who hopes that ecologically minded people will come out to support the stores that continue where Chikoko leaves off when the models leave the stage. “The key to not just the success of artists, but I think the community as a whole, is to value the unique offerings Jasmin Malik Chuna within the community.”
“Using knitting to achieve a meditative state of mind could enable a much wider population to experience the benefits of meditation, as it doesn’t entail having to understand, accept or engage in a prolonged learning period of the practice. It happens as a natural side effect of knitting.” Others have likened crafting to entering a state of “flow,” what positive psychologist Csíkszentmihályi describes as “a state of concentration or complete absorption with the activity at hand and the situation. It is a state in which people are so involved in an activity that nothing else seems to matter.” And, according to Corkhill, even Albert Einstein was reputed to have knitted between projects to “calm his mind and clear his thinking.” Neuroscientists are beginning to understand how mindfulness, meditation and experiencing “flow” impact the brain. Research shows these practices improve depression, anxiety, coping style in the face of adversity, improve quality of life, and significantly reduce Knit one. Purl one. Knit one. Purl one. Knit one. The rhythmic stress. All vital for maintaining brain health and well-being. nature of knitting is calming, comforting and contemplative. It’s not a stretch for you to imagine knitting as a mindfulness practice, From knitted scarves to ceramic birdhouses to felted baby or perhaps a form of meditation. I’m delighted to report that booties, Americans are getting more and more hands on. Here’s neuroscience is finally catching up on brain health aspects of the what’s behind the rise in crafting—plus some inspiration to get your trend some have called “the new yoga.” Research shows that forms own creative wheels spinning. Watch how New York City artist Megan of textile crafting such as sewing, weaving and crocheting have quite Caponetto created this week’s cover art in the video below and click a lot in common with mindfulness and meditation, all are reported here to view a slideshow of some incredible crafts! to have a positive impact on the health of your mind and well being. About six years ago, after Mike Haeg contracted Lyme disease, his In an online survey of more 3,545 knitters, by Betsan Corkhill, therapist suggested meditation to help his memory problems. a UK-based knitting therapist who has done research on the But Haeg, 44, found it hard to sit still and clear his mind. Fine, said therapeutic effects of knitting, more than half of respondents his therapist—take up a meditative hobby instead. So he learned reported that knitting left them feeling “very happy.” And many to knit. First scarves, then hats, and more recently, socks, from an said that they knitted solely for the purposes of relaxation, stress updated 1890s pattern he found for “shooting socks” of the type relief and creativity. The study found a significant relationship gentlemen once wore with knickerbockers. They are textured between the frequency of knitting and respondents’ perceived wool, rise to mid-calf, and are so handsome they won Haeg, mood and feelings. Frequent knitters (those who knitted more from Mount Holly, Minn., a ribbon at the Minnesota State Fair this than 3 times a week) were calmer, happier, less sad, less anxious, summer. His hats are eye-catching, too. “People will say, ‘Dude, and more happy and confident in themselves. where’d you get that hat?’ And I answer, ‘I made it,’ ” says Haeg, an interactive creative director at a design and advertising agency in Corkhill’s study concluded, “Knitting has significant psychological Minneapolis. He later shared that the art was miraculous for him, and social benefits, which can contribute to well-being and exlaiming “Knitting changed my life.” quality of life.” Interestingly, the study also found that people who knitted as part of a group were even happier than solo He’s not alone. “People are creating personalized things rather knitters. Knit-ins, stitch ‘n bitch groups, and even scrapbooking than going out and spending money on the same items,” says Keri parties have many keys of mind and brain health covered. Cunningham, the association’s director of marketing. “When life is crazy, it’s good to take time to do something that relaxes them.” Here are 10 ways crafting with friends may improve mind and brain wellness: Mental challenge and problem solving, social David Taylor, 49, a Nashville restaurant owner who bought his connection, mindfulness, development of hand-eye coordination, own kiln two years ago, was inspired to take up ceramics as a hobby spatial awareness and fine motor dexterity, as well as learning, after inheriting a piece of pottery that had belonged to his greatteachisng and focusing attention and thoughts on a task. Crafting grandfather. “Ceramics is like playing in the mud. I can completely together with others also encourages active creativity, gives a sense forget the rest of the world.” And crafting isn’t just good for the soul; of pride and achievement, teaches patience and perseverance, and it’s also good for the body and mind, according to researchers at the also facilitates improved memory formation and retrieval. University of Florida’s Center for Arts in Medicine. According to her paper, “The skills and feelings experienced whilst knitting and stitching can also be used to facilitate the learning of techniques, such as meditation, relaxation and pacing which are commonly taught on pain management courses, or in the treatment of depression.”
“We spend so much time today typing on a keyboard, manipulating a mouse, and living virtually that we long to use our hands to create something tangible,” says Monica Moses, editor in chief of American Craft magazine. For many, anything less doesn’t really feel productive. Christopher Maklin
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