MicroShiner Summer 2013
Definitive Guide to the World of Craft Spirits
CACAO PRIETO
Rum & Chocolate
Made from the Same Sugar!
THE NEW FACE
OF GIN
Dancing Pines & Spirit Hound
THE WOODIEMAN PALM RIDGE RESERVE SUMMER 2013
$10.99 US/CAN
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PAGE 6 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Brian Cary
contents 2013
summer
Letter From the Publisher Crafting Cocktails—Bartender Interview Drinking Music In Season—The New Face of Gin New Twists on Summertime Gin Cocktails The Woodieman Bitter Sweet Heaven—Cacao Prieto A Refreshing Diversion—Palm Ridge Reserve
11 13 14 19
30 36 45 58
PAGE 8 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by David Lyman
Summer 2013
Publisher Design Director Copy Editor Staff Contributors
Staff Photographers
Cobey Williamson Alex Vitti David Lyman Nels Wroe Marisa Lyon Kimberly Naslund Jeff Mattson Luc Nadeau Michael Marquand Brian Cary
Marketing
Ryan Murphy
Webmaster
Kelsey Binder Working Dog Media, LLC 1406 Summerdale Rd Corvallis, MT 59828
Summer 2013 Contributors
Christina Cary
Marc Woltinger
Brian Cary
A physical therapist by day and pop-n-locker by night, Christina graduated with a degree in print journalism from Jacksonville State University, and a Doctorate in PT from University of Miami. Sonoma, CA is home, but has taken the East Coast and their local Pubs by storm...next stop Washington, DC.
Marc Wöltinger is a freelance automotive journalist, copywriter and author. He was born in Switzerland but has a German passport and currently resides in San Clemente, California, where he’s trying to surf and writing a book about drag racing in the early 1950s.
Brian is a photographer, scuba diver, skydiver, & because he’s gotta pay the bills... bar manager. When not serving up craft cocktails you’ll usually find him falling from the sky at 13,000 feet, or swimming 100 feet under the ocean. Though California’s wine country will always be home, he has lived all over this planet including Alaska and Thailand.
©2013 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine cannot be duplicated without the prior written consent of the owner. The views contained within the contents of MicroShiner Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of its owners or staff.
Cover Photo by Brian Cary | Inside Cover Photo by Luc Nadeau
Photo by Brian Cary « MicroShiner.com | PAGE 9
PAGE 10 | MicroShiner.com
Âť
Photo by Vincent Buckley
Letter from the
PUBLISHER
Summer always reminds me of hanging out with my friends in the parking lot of our hometown bowling alley, after the sun had set and the world was cast in the ethereal luster of the protracted twilight. Most of us were not yet of drinking age, and those that were lived blissfully ignorant that any alternative to the ubiquitous can of Coors Light even existed. There were only a handful of microbreweries operating in the U.S. at the time, and the term “craft”, as we know it today, had yet to be coined. The idea of choosing something because it was unique, distinctive, or original was almost completely foreign to us, except in one regard. Whether it was a jacked up four by four, rusty American classic, or lowly Japanese import, the first thing on every young car owner’s mind was how they could make it their own. Cruising the strip was de rigueur on Saturday night and creating a distinct appearance, no matter if you were driving an old farm truck or the family K-car, was paramount. Most of the work performed on these vehicles was done by hand, with little or no budget, and often was the only outlet for craftsmanship that any of us knew. It’s easy to forget, in this age of robot welding, CNC machines and internet shopping, that every single product we trade and use was made by someone. And as technology marches forward, moving us ever closer to the perfectly automated production line, it becomes even more easily overlooked. We no longer see firsthand the people working on the goods we buy. We are insulated from the process, to the point that today the very notion of doing something by hand has become boutique. To me, this is a blessing in disguise. When I think about the period when I was young, the 70s and 80s, everything came from an assembly line. It took banality, pure box store predictability, to push us to where we are today. It took turning the whole world plastic to make the elemental cool. In this, our Summer issue, you will find the stories of a select group of individuals who are committed to keeping their hands in the process. From the handcrafted products of Cacao Prieto to the total hands-on approach of Palm Ridge Reserve, each of these producers has dedicated themselves to reviving that sense of distinction and individuality that lives in the heart of every hot rodder, cruising to the local hangout on a hot August night. Cobey Williamson Publisher
Dominic Venegas pours a freshly mixed custom cocktail.
PAGE 12 | MicroShiner.com
CRAFTING
COCKTAILS
BARTENDER INTERVIEW The Manhattan Cocktail Classic
KIMBERLY
he contrary nature of mid-
cocktails that resemble something like
NASLUND
town Manhattan and a spir-
a hairstyling product to classic drinks
its company from Utah called
crafted with quality spirits that have stood
High West make an interesting backdrop.
ing up
In a crowded suite on the 11th floor of
for 15 years accumulating a collection of
The
awards and professional accolades.
all from the city. Damon Boelte arrived in
shakes up a custom cocktail. He asks
He’s optimistic about the future
New York from Oklahoma City. His diverse
a couple of questions. What kind of
of craft spirits. “I see craft spirits improv-
background as a musician serves him well
whiskey do you prefer? Do you like very
ing every year.” He’s embraced what some
as he hosts a weekly radio show about
sweet drinks?
see as a problem with craft spirits. “I’m a
his craft and runs a pop-up bar service
He’s one of hundreds of bar-
big fan of one offs and seasonals. Custom-
at concerts.
tenders that have converged on Midtown
ers love something they know was hard to
for the Manhattan Cocktail Classic. With
make and maybe there’s only 100 bottles.”
sic Pisco Sour. The soft foam of the egg
so many interesting and diverse bever-
As chatter fills the tiny room he swiftly
whites is followed by a refreshing burst of
age professionals meeting to develop
stirs the cocktail in a glass.
citrus and the dry finish of bitters. This
and support this craft it didn’t seem
The finished drink is an expres-
cocktail is skillfully made, and the bar-
wise to visit with just one. The most
sion of Dominic’s honed ability to have a
tender from Oklahoma no more out of
skilled and experienced of the trade
conversation with his customer, under-
place in this hustling environment than
arrived in New York to share their knowl-
stand what they prefer, and make them
the spirit company from the mountains
edge during several days of classes. Spirit
feel as if they were catching up with an old
of Utah.
brands large and small take advantage of
friend. It’s an eloquent demonstration of
the opportunity to present their spirits to
bartending at its best, not only in the art
the bartenders attending the classic adds
some of the most enthusiastic bartenders
of the drink but of hospitality as well.
to the energy of the entire event. Each
one can hope to meet.
Down the hall is a string of suites
tradesman brings their own skill set, per-
This is where I meet Dominic;
hosted by spirit brands, filled with similar
sonality and taste, similar to the limitless
he is working with High West, featuring
talent, conversation and drinking. There’s
array of spirits available from the many
their line of whiskies. He has been mix-
a little bit of everything here, from bizarre
producers large and small.
Andaz
Hotel,
Dominic
Venegas
drinks
the test of time. Bartenders of this caliber aren’t
He vigorously shakes up a clas-
The diversity of backgrounds in
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 13
Drinking Music usic and spirits are inextricably intertwined.
for no greater purpose than sheer enjoyment.
Whether it’s the rat pack & martinis, the jazz
age and bathtub gin, saloon whiskey and a
ket is awash with corporate product. Artists are groomed
player piano, or just pickin’ on the porch with a jar of shine,
and selected based on one thing: their ability to sell records.
where you find one, you will likely find the other. So many
All of the coarseness and irregularity is eliminated, and
analogies exist between the two that we felt, as a magazine
much of the nuance and the intangible lost. To paraphrase
about craft and spirits, inclined - nay almost obliged - to
Neil Young at the onset of the digital age, the real music lives
dedicate some space to music.
between the 0 and 1.
Music is a craft. Doing it well depends on bringing
Just as it is in the spirits business, the music mar-
In that regard, and in keeping with the theme
a number of elements together in just the right proportions,
of this publication, what we hope to offer you here is that
and as with crafting spirits the resultant product is always
space between the step and the curve that is so important,
greater than the sum of its parts. Differences in equipment,
yet often goes overlooked. Here we hope to share some
training, ingredients, recipes are reflected in subtle, and
bands and music that you might just find playing onstage
sometimes not so subtle, variations in character, flavor, ten-
in your local tasting room or watering hole. Here, as with
or, and tone. Each begins with a handful of raw material that, through a practiced and perfected process, culminates in a refined and handcrafted product, often
the micro-distilleries we focus on, you just might happen upon someone you know, and together enjoy a little drinking music.
San Cisco Self-Titled
Summer is here, and what better way to celebrate with some up and coming nerd rock? With a modern surf
help but tap your foot, smile,
them some good exposure in
the playful “Wild Things”.
rock style reminiscent of the
roll your windows down and
Australia. Their next release,
The self-titled album is a
Drums, these young members
enjoy your summer.
the “Awkward EP” saw an in-
joyful ride filled with plenty
Direct from Australia, de-
creasingly interested fan base.
of hooks, simple yet fulfill-
sound with bright guitars,
spite what their name might
Their self-titled album is a
ing pop arrangements, and
bouncing bass lines, dreamy
suggest, these young rockers
refined work, hinted at sub-
blooming lyrics. Recommend-
synth chords, and some tight
are riding a wonderful debut
tly by their EPs. It features a
ed tracks include “Beach”,
percussion. Their sound is
full length after the release
collection of upbeat songs
“Metaphors”, and “Nepal”.
the sound of a love and sun
of a few EPs. Their second
such as the honestly mat-
Fits perfectly with rum on
filled summer. You really can’t
“Golden Revolver EP” got
ter of fact “Fred Astaire”, and
the beach.
of San Cisco stack their
PAGE 14 | MicroShiner.com
In The Valley Below
of folk, blues, and darkwave, with simmering female and male vocals gives this band a distinct sound. They have yet to release a full length but at the moment they have a couple of EPs
Self-Titled EP & Hymnal EP
that are well worth the listen. The “Hymnal EP” and their self-titled EP, which contains
While attending a show in Los
a group by the name of In The
and Jeffrey Jacob, and a full
two of the three songs on the
Angeles to see a band named
Valley Below. It turned out
backing band, they deliver a
“Hymnal EP”, are both darkly
Wildcat! Wildcat!, I was fortu-
to be quite the performance.
menacingly
live
romantic. “I wish I found you
nate enough to work my way
Comprised of two contribut-
show. The guitar tone is what
sooner, I could have loved you
inside and see the warm up,
ing songwriters, Angela Gail
struck
passionate
me
initially:
rough,
longer” both of them whisper
subtly
bluesy,
coarse
together over a steady low
mids and lows, some-
rumbling bass line in the song
times
dark,
“The Hymn”. And from their
brilliantly
self-titled EP, “Take Me Back”
scorching. Drawing you
carries a menacingly brood-
in,
sinisterly
ing verse, heavily broken by a
over the dark electronic
hopeful yet sorrowful chorus.
synths common in many
Combine the EPs and you get
of their songs, but fit it
five darkly auspicious songs.
does, moreover it sears
A distinct sound and plenty
through the darkness.
of depth, keep an eye out for
But the focus is less on
their debut full length. Give
the guitar though and
them a couple of spins paired
more on the dark instru-
with your favorite spirit and if
mental
you get the chance, see them
perfectly
other
times floating
tones
carrying
the swirling vocals. Hints
Wampire Curiosity
live, it’s well worth it.
Eric Phipps, who originally
a gorgeous drowsy aurora, the
you eager for more, and sad-
started playing electronic mu-
only complaint I have is that
dened when you realize this
sic at house parties in Port-
it’s much too short. A mere
album just released, so it’ll be
land. When dancing around
nine songs and just over 32
a wait. Personal favorites in-
the Portland area with their
minutes in length, it leaves
clude “Giants” with its opening
electro bass music got old,
wah pedal majesty,
they decided to strap on some
the aforementioned
guitars and get a full band to-
album opener, and
gether. The end result is some
“Trains”,
fuzzy,
lad that my friend
synthed-out,
psyche-
delic rock. The album opener “The
a
bal-
would describe as affluent
nautical
Hearse” is a new wave woozy
lounge rock, if that
dream, layers of synth and de-
can possibly be an
lay drenched guitar create a
expressive auditory
Portland, Oregon based band
beautiful wall of hazy din that
description. This is
Wampire
dropped
delights listeners hungry for
music best enjoyed
their album ‘Curiosity’ just
modern music with strong in-
with a whiskey sour,
this past spring. One part new
fluences from the old sounds
I might even con-
wave, one part rock, complete-
of psychedelic rock and 80’s
sent to a traditional
ly psychedelic on all levels.
new wave, come to think of it,
pilsner, under as
The group’s songwriting duo
I don’t know whose ears this
many neon lights as
comprises Rocky Tinder and
wouldn’t please. The album is
one can handle.
recently
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 15
Kings County Distillery, Brooklyn Navy Yard, Bldg 121, Samds Street Gate, Brooklyn, NYC
www.KingsCountyDistillery.com - Tours and Tastings every Saturday 2:30 to 5:30
–In Season–
THE NEW FACE OF GIN — By Nels Wroe — PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUC NADEAU
t’s hot. Darn hot. The black pavement of US Highway 66
US were showcasing their twists on gin, both classic and con-
looks eerily insubstantial in the radiating heat waves on
temporary. The number of variations being poured, from complex
the way to Lyons, Colorado, home to Spirit Hound distill-
barrel-aged gins to pristine double-distilled classics, surprised
ers. It’s easy to find – the restored 1938 Buick Opera Coupe
both novice attendees and industry veterans.
parked outside the distillery is an uncommon sight most
places, let alone the parking lot of a distillery in the foothills
ing a resurgence within the microdistilling movement. There are
outside Boulder.
few spirits as steeped in history and tradition that allow dis-
Craig Englehorn, Master Distiller (who pre-
fers the title of “Mad Scientist’), and Talia Tiram, Operations and Logistics Manager (who prefers the self-proclaimed title of ‘Whisky Maiden’) are already busy; Craig wrapping up a busy day with the still and Talia behind the bar, sliding ice-filled glasses to patrons as they welcome the cool respite from the heat of the afternoon. The tasting room at Spirit Hound is well known among locals as
Perhaps it shouldn’t come as a surprise that gin is mak-
tillers such creativity and – dare I say it – Terroir to shape the outcome. Gin is the offspring of the juniper
“PERHAPS IT SHOULDN’T COME AS A SURPRISE THAT GIN IS MAKING A RESURGENCE WITHIN THE MICRODISTILLING MOVEMENT. THERE ARE FEW SPIRITS AS STEEPED IN HISTORY AND TRADITION THAT ALLOW DISTILLERS SUCH CREATIVITY AND – DARE I SAY IT – TERROIR TO SHAPE THE OUTCOME.”
berry, which imparts the archetypal evergreen-like bite to the drink. Originally created as a medicinal elixir, many people that have grown up with the widely available commercial brands argue that gin hasn’t moved too far from the
original
‘medicinal’
flavor profile. on e, ”
“Gin is a tricky sa ys
Naslund,
Ki m be r l y
one
of
the
the latest summer hot spot. The team there serves up a host of
founders of Dancing Pines Distillery in Loveland, Colorado. Danc-
creative cocktails, including several that are new spins on ‘clas-
ing Pines Gin won Silver at the American Distilling Institute’s 7th
sic’ summer drinks crafted with their Spirit Hound Gin.
annual American craft spirits competition, notably in the ‘Con-
Gin, it seems, is also hot this season. Stereotypically an
temporary Gin’ class. “Historically, gin can be hard to love – peo-
old school drink, a gin renaissance is underway as both distillers
ple either love it or hate it, and they tend to be loyal to a label. It
and patrons are rediscovering this venerable and versatile spirit.
took us a long time and a lot of experimentation to develop our
Earlier this year at the DSTILL event in Denver, this underdog
final recipe. We wanted something that we liked, not just what
liquor practically stole the show. Distillers from all parts of the
was traditional (for gin).”
PAGE 20 | MicroShiner.com
PAGE 22 | MicroShiner.com
he juniper berry is the
foundation
of
gin’s classic flavor profile, but there can be great variation in other botanicals used to craft the spirit. The Naslunds went through a creative
“SPIRIT HOUND EVEN OFFERS TO BUY LOCAL PATRONS A COCKTAIL WHEN THEY BRING IN A BAG OF JUNIPER BERRIES SOURCED FROM THEIR OWN YARD.”
period where they com-
into the liquor. The Dancing Pines team uses a cold maceration technique, one of the many different methods used in creating signature flavor profiles in gin. Cold maceration is not common, and relies exclusively on the alcohol to extract the essence from the
bined a bit of everything in their botanicals, resulting
botanicals. “In many cases, heat is used to extract the
in a muddied, overly complex profile that compound-
oils – whether it’s steam or hot water. We find that us-
ed the ‘love it or hate it’ reaction from their tasters. “We
ing heat also leached out some of the bitter compounds
love to experiment, but it is easy to overdo it with gin. Once we
we don’t want into the gin,” explains Naslund.
decided we couldn’t please everyone, we made the decision to craft
something we would enjoy. We selected six botanicals we love, and
ture Gin. Holding up a deceptively small wire basket, Craig Engle-
the result is a much cleaner profile,” Naslund commented.
horn extracts the essence from his botanicals by letting the hot
Dancing Pines Gin has a pronounced licorice flavor with
vapors from the still wash through the mix to flavor the spirit.
bright notes of citrus that are clean and crisp. It is a far cry from
“The basket method lets us control each batch using the mix of
the evergreen-heavy tang many people associate with gin, and sur-
botanicals we want. We don’t stretch the botanicals this way,”
prisingly complex as the distinct highlights of the botanicals make
Englehorn notes.
their way across the palate. The light touch of the flavors in their
gin may well come from the process used to infuse the botanicals
sourced juniper berries for their gin’s delicate, brighter charac-
PAGE 26 | MicroShiner.com
Spirit Hound uses a gin basket to create their signa-
He credits the extraction method and 100% locally-
Summer 2013
ter. Spirit Hound even offers to buy local patrons a cocktail when they bring in a bag of juniper berries sourced from their own yard. “The more local we can get the berries, the better. Heck, if I can get a consistent supply of fresh juniper from our own back yards, then I’m happy to buy folks a drink or two,” he grins. Of no small importance is the added benefit of getting the freshest juniper berries possible. “There is no better way to store the berries than on the plant itself,” he points out.
The mix of botanicals is a very personal and
local choice. There are the classics – coriander, citrus peel, anise - but setting the required juniper berries aside, the final choice of aromatics and herbs can be wonderfully local. Gins from distillers around the country are crafting authentic spirits that are an extension of the place they were born. San Juan Island Distillery in Washington (http://www.sanjuanislanddistillery.com) crafts their highly-regarded gins with island-foraged blackberries and wild roses. They even harvest early spring growth from the Douglas fir trees that grow nearby.
Wheeler’s Western Dry Gin by Santa Fe Spir-
its (http://www.santafespirits.com), located in the heart of the Southwest, celebrates the parched landscape using cactus flowers and other desert aromatics in their hand-selected mix of botanicals. A sampling of Wheeler’s at the weeklong DSTILL events in Denver earlier this year showcased just how distinct different gins can be – the striking currents of melon, sage and the compelling, smoky yet floral base within was markedly
Bistro in Boulder, Colorado (http://saltboulderbistro.com) to run
different from many of the other dry gins at the event.
their pre-release gins through a wide range of classic and new
The art of creating the ideal mix of botanicals used in
cocktails. Spirit Hound has the benefit of a close working rela-
crafting gin could fill an entire tome. Pair the natural inclina-
tionship with their colleagues at the Lyons Fork (http://lyonsfork.
tion that micro distillers have towards experimentation with the
com), and their spirits make regular appearances at other leading
myriad choices of flavoring agents, and creativity has exploded in
restaurants in the area, including The Kitchen Boulder, a com-
the creation of world-class gins. In some ways, this has created
munity bistro in the heart of downtown.
a challenge for the industry; it’s difficult to compare and clas-
sify gins from different distillers through a common lens. Multiple
the recipes) deserves significant credit in the gin renaissance. Dis-
classifications for the spirit are a norm, with The American Distill-
tillers are taking great care in creating complex and accessible
ing Institute offering six categories: Classic Gin, Contemporary
creations to open up this historically curmudgeonly spirit in new
Gin, Aged Gin, Old Tom Gin, Genever, and Cordial Gin.
and creative ways. Food pairings extend the creativity beyond the
For patrons of the “art of gin,” the range of styles is a
bottle, and the subtle but direct influence of local flavors in hand-
boon. Hand-crafted gin is becoming the new favorite of restaura-
crafted gin finds chefs – and patrons - reaching more frequently
teurs, bartenders, and foodies alike due to the subtle (or not so
for the gin bottle than ever before.
subtle) variations found in each bottle. This makes gin a creative
compliment for pairing with foods, both as a base for recipes and
alike to explore and expand their worlds. It takes an open mind to
as a perfectly matched drink of choice. Similar to highlights in
revisit and reinvent this classic, but Talia at Spirit Hound notes
wine, the flavors infused by the botanicals have unique charac-
that the drink might surprise even the most diehard loyalists. This
teristics that can beautifully underscore ingredients and spices in
as Craig steps in behind the bar to help mix and serve drinks, an
paired dishes.
uncommon activity for him. “There’s a reason we call him ‘Cranky
Craig’ and don’t let him up front too often,” Talia laughs.
Both Spirit Hound and Dancing Pines have close con-
This food-forward, local approach (flip two pages to see
Gin is a modern platform for craft distillers and patrons
nections with local restaurants, at times even relying on their staff
to test, sample, and shape the final selection of botanicals used
or passes a drink down the bar, he’s living proof that even the
But watching peoples’ faces light up as he cracks a joke
by the distillers. Dancing Pines asked their friends at the Salt
most uncompromising spirits can rise to the occasion.
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 27
NEW TWISTS ON SUMM THEAVIATION Talia Tiram,
Spirit Hound, Lyons, CO “The Aviation is one of our most popular cocktails. It’s a local take on a Great Gatsby-era summer drink, although it’s equally enjoyable after the weather cools down.”
3 OUNCES
SPIRIT HOUND GIN
1.5 OUNCES
AMARENA CHERRY SYRUP
1.5 OUNCES
FRESH SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE
Shake, strain, garnish with Amarena Sour Black Cherries. PAGE 30 | MicroShiner.com
MERTIME GIN COCKTAILS BEE’SKNEES Kimberly and Kristian Naslund, Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland,CO
“This is one of our favorite summertime cocktails. It’s a classic, but whenever we make it for people, they can’t believe it’s got gin as the base. The tartness of the lemon balances the sweetness of the honey and highlights the bright citrus from the grapefruit in the gin.”
2 OUNCES
DANCING PINES GIN
¾HONEY OUNCES SYRUP
½ OUNCES
FRESH LEMON JUICE
Pour the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with lemon. MicroShiner.com | PAGE 31
GRILLED RIB EYE STEAKS WITH GIN Yield: About 4 servings
Ingredients Four 10-Ounce
BONELESS RIB EYE STEAKS
1 Tablespoon
WHOLE PEPPERCORNS
1 Teaspoon
WHOLE ALLSPICE BERRIES
1 Teaspoon
DRIED JUNIPER BERRIES
1 Tablespoon
KOSHER SALT
2 Tablespoons
FLAT LEAF PARSLEY, minced
1 Cup
CHICKEN STOCK
1 Cup
HEAVY WHIPPING CREAM
¼ Cup
ROUNDHOUSE BARREL AGED GIN
1 Tablespoon
UNSALTED BUTTER
Directions
1.
2.
Using a coffee grinder, blend
3.
Grill steaks over high heat
and grind the peppercorns,
until desired temperature,
allspice, juniper berries, and
transfer to a cutting board and
salt. Trim the steaks and
let rest for 3 minutes before
season liberally on both sides
cutting. Slice steaks, against
with spice blend, making sure
the grain into 1” strips. Stir
to leave a little of the blend
any excess jus from the steaks
Chef Chris Bybee has been in the food industry for nearly
behind for the sauce.
into the sauce pan. Whisk the
20 years, in virtually every capacity.
butter and parsley into the
He opened a restaurant in the
sauce just before serving
Caribbean, has operated a catering
Add the remaining spice blend and the chicken stock into a small sauce pan and bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and cook until reduced by 2/3. Stir in Gin and heavy cream and continue to cook on low heat while preparing the grill.
PAGE 32 | MicroShiner.com » Photo by Luc Nadeau
4.
business, and works for Indian To serve, shingle cut rib eyes
Harvest artisan grain company as
onto plate and spoon the gin
an R&D chef developing creative,
sauce on top.
real-world recipes for clients. He is based outside of Boulder, Colorado where he explores local and exotic foods on a daily basis, sharing his creations with friends and family.
Summer 2013
PAN SEARED SCALLOPS w/ BARREL AGED GIN OVER CREAMY POLENTA Yield: About 4 servings
Ingredients Twelve U10
SEA SCALLOPS
½ Cup
ROUNDHOUSE IMPERIAL BARREL AGED GIN
2 Teaspoons
CANOLA OIL
3 Teaspoons
COLD BUTTER, cut into 1 inch pieces
1 Cup
ITALIAN STYLE POLENTA
½ Cup
ASIAGO CHEESE
½ Cup
HALF AND HALF
3 Cups
LIGHTLY SALTED WATER or CHICKEN STOCK
1 Bunch
FRESH CHIVES, cut into ¼ inch slices
To taste
KOSHER SALT & GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Directions
1.
In a small pot, bring the water
per side. Remove the scallops
or stock to a boil and whisk in
to a paper towel to remove
the polenta. Reduce the heat
excess oil.
to low and cook while stirring until the polenta thickens, about 15 minutes. Stir in the
2.
3.
Deglaze pan with Gin, reduce heat, and whisk in cold butter.
half and half and asiago cheese
Let the sauce reduce by half
and set aside.
while stirring.
Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Heat a sauté pan
4.
To serve, spoon polenta onto plate and top with scallops.
on stove and add the oil. Just
Spoon gin sauce over scallops
before oil begins to smoke add
and top with diced chives.
the scallops. Sear the scallops
Serve hot.
on both sides, about a minute
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 35
W
oodieman
Encinitas, California hat comes to your mind when you picture the terms “California”, “Surf Culture” and “1960s”? You probably think of
the Beach Boys first. Well, you’re almost there, but we want you to come up with the other cliché. Think “transportation” if that helps. There you go!
In fact, the Woodie is one of the
most omnipresent images when it comes to the essential elements of the surf craze of the early 1960s. Today, more than ever, you find Woodies plastered on every kind of merchandise being sold along the Pacific Coast, from t-shirts to coffee mugs to toilet seats. This popularity, combined with the rarity of these vehicles, has pushed prices through the roof in the last couple of decades. And while surfers back in the day loved woodies for their practicality—you could easily haul a longboard around and still have a cozy place to crash at night— they also appreciated them for being cheap means of transport. Today the market price for a perfectly restored Woodie from the 1940s to the early 50s can easily reach $150,000.
Another factor affecting their rise
in value is the complexity involved with restoring a Woodie. While it already takes a lot of skill, patience and money to bring even your ‘average’ classic car back to
PAGE 36 | MicroShiner.com
The
Photos and Words by Marc Wöltinger
^ABOVE Ron handpicks a combo of ash, mahogany and maple to construct the superstructure of this vehicle with absolute perfection.
PAGE 38 | MicroShiner.com
life, in this case you may also need some-
When restoring a Woodie, Ron
at his preferred supplier in San Diego. The
one who really knows his way around the
usually starts by disassembling the wood-
other reason is that he wants to make sure
Woodie’s wood. One of the chosen few is
en structure, or what has been left of it.
there are no black marks on the wood. It’s
Ron Heiden. He’s been restoring Woodies
With the help of the patterns he has for
this attention to detail that makes Ron
for three decades and operates a shop in
most Ford and Chevrolet Woodies, he
one of the preeminent Woodie restorers in
Encinitas, a picturesque California beach
starts building the superstructure first.
the country.
town in San Diego County.
Both manufacturers had their own prefer-
Ron Heiden’s shop exemplifies
ence of wood, so accordingly Ron uses ash
everything apart. He starts sanding the piec-
that perfect ratio of artistic chaos and
frame wood on a Chevy but opts for maple
es in order to get them ready to be stained or
engineered tidiness, spiced up with a lot
on a Ford. The panels, however, are ma-
later on varnished. The varnishing process
of history and soul. Apart from wood in
hogany on both makes.
alone takes around 100 hours. The frame
all sizes and shapes like panels, slats, and
This first assembly of the wooden
pieces for example each receive 10 -15 coats
beams, there are dozens of dusty photo-
structure allows Ron to fit and adjust the
of varnish and have to be sanded smooth
graphs of happy customers’ cars next to
doors, the tailgate, and the liftgate. At this
after every coat. Through this painstak-
After the first assembly, Ron takes
an endless array
ing process, Ron
of
woodworking
is able to create a
tools, saws, drills,
flawless finish that
vise
and
will withstand the
files. And just so
weather and look
his visitors have no
great for years to
doubt that this re-
come. With each
ally is a busy shop,
and every piece of
everything is cov-
wood finished, it
ered with a delicate
is time for the final
layer of sawdust.
assembly. In this way
Ron
years
clamps
After of
30
rebuilds
or
refurbishes 5 to 7
restor-
Woodies a year.
ing Woodies, it is
“Apart from wood in all sizes and shapes like panels, slats, and beams, there are dozens of dusty photographs of happy customers’ cars next to an endless array of woodworking tools, saws, drills, vise clamps and files. And just so his visitors have no doubt that this really is a busy shop, everything is covered with a delicate layer of sawdust.”
as certain as the constant waves at San
point, all the wooden parts are just roughly
Onofre Beach that Ron Heiden has a lot
sanded. Perfectly aligned parts, smoothly
storer do in his spare time? Drive his own
of experience with these machines. Most
working doors, and consistent gaps are
wooden station wagon of course, a 1950
of what he knows today is self-taught. Be-
some of the crucial aspects in a high qual-
Ford. And with a 1947 teardrop camp-
ing handy and understanding mechanical
ity Woodie restoration. Ron even goes a
ing trailer in tow and his girlfriend in the
things by just looking at them also helped.
step further, making sure the grain of the
passenger’s seat, Ron loves nothing more
But that’s merely the understated view Ron
wood lines up nicely on the doors on each
than to explore the back roads and high-
has of himself. Other people say he’s an
side. That’s one of the reasons why he per-
ways of the West, just like a Woodie was
artist – as simple as that.
sonally handpicks all the wood he needs
meant to do.
PAGE 42 | MicroShiner.com
And what does a Woodie re-
Summer 2013
BITTER
SWEET HEAVEN By MARISA LYON PHOTOGRAPHY by BRIAN CARY
T
he difference is in the
Located in the Catskills, the limestone
water,� Nick grinned,
cave possesses naturally filtered water
pointing to a photo of
overflowing with minerals, giving it an
a crystalline pool. The
exceptionally sweet taste. With a swirl
tranquil waters of the
of the glass, I quickly discovered Nick
underground
mine
ap-
was correct.
peared as inviting as the sparkling copper
bourbon in my hand.
the Widow Jane mine, the cobblestone
Similar to the serene waters of
Widow Jane Bourbon, the new-
streets of Red Hook, Brooklyn, offer a
est of Cacao Prieto’s creations, is as pure
quiet respite. Hidden from the hustle and
and unique as it sounds. The Kentucky
bustle of city life, they have sanctified
bourbon with a Brooklyn twist is brought
their suburban neighborhood charm and
to life by the mineral rich waters of
provide an idyllic home to the artisanal in-
its namesake, the Widow Jane Mine.
novators of Cacao Prieto.
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 47
Summer 2013
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 49
O
ne particular tree-lined street foretells of succulent
sweetness
ahead. Street signs entice patrons to a three story brick build-
ing on the corner. “Bitter sweet heaven… awaits you… don’t pass by.” Inside the looming doorway there’s a frenzy of activity. The team hurries about as a mixture of chatter and laughter soars over the purr of the custom 1000 liter still.
An
aesthetician’s
dream,
the
chic, repurposed warehouse mirrors the organic appeal of the custom specialties it harbors. Brick walls connect the towering plate glass windows and plank hardwood floors of the loft-style retail space. To the left, bottles of Cacao Rum and Widow Jane Bourbon decorate the wall and the long glass display case before it. To the right, a second display of decadent chocolate bars, bonbons and dark chocolate samples beckon for a taste. Behind a segmented glass wall towers the glistening copper still, humming melodiously as it transforms its contents into treasures.
Nick, the distillery’s produc-
tion manager, didn’t waste a moment, offering a warm hello and tasty sample of rum practically simultaneously. Naturally proud, he wanted the uniqueness of Cacao’s delicacies to speak for themselves.
In addition to the exclusive
Widow Jane Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey, Cacao Prieto distills a line of small batch liqueurs and rums. Earthy and complex, both Don Rafael Cacao Rum and Don Estaban Cacao Liqueur are distilled from organic cacao and sugar cane. Nick poured samples of the delightfully smooth, award winning rum. The aroma of honeyed sugar cane and coffee was accentuated by its rich, dark chocolate flavor with a hint of oak and dash of vanilla.
Don
Estaban
Cacao
Liqueur
would make the perfect chocolate martini. Similar to the rum, it boasts a luscious chocolate base with notes of toffee and caramel topped with a dash of spice.
Cacao Prieto’s dream is to expand their products well beyond liquor and chocolate. Their recently introduced Fountain of Youth Facial Soap has already been very well recieved.
PAGE 52 | MicroShiner.com
“
Summer 2013
The COMBINATION
DISTILLERY and
CHOCOLATE
FACTORY is UNCOMMON,
but ORDINARY isn’t in CACAO PRIETO’S
”
VOCABULARY.
W
idow Jane Bourbon
accompany the bourbon, rather than
was originally in-
risk diluting its richness with “regular
opened its doors in 2009. Perfecting its
The beans to bars operation
troduced as a five
tap water.”
chocolate decadence, the company sourc-
year spirit, but the
What truly establishes Cacao
es their organic cacao and sugar cane
sold
Prieto as an artisanal leader is not only the
directly from Coralina Farms, Dan’s fam-
out quickly, inspiring the
use of such key ingredients as limestone
ily run plantations in the Dominican Re-
now seven year reserve to fill its void. An
water, but also the innovative science
public. The alcohol byproduct produced
exceptionally light, buttercream scent
behind their methods. Lead by visionary
during fermentation lead Dan to work his
rose from the glass before notes of
founder Dan Prieto Preston, the team con-
magic distilling rums, followed by the ad-
cherry
stantly conceptualizes ideas, testing new
dition of whiskey last fall.
danced across the palate. Topped with
products, blends and fusions.
a citrus snap, the medium-bodied fin-
chocolate factory is uncommon, but ordi-
ish read more mature than a traditional
space engineer, Dan is an innate creator.
nary isn’t in Cacao Prieto’s vocabulary.
seven year and is ideal for both the ex-
His inventive nature, combined with an
perienced bourbon lover and curious be-
engineering background and rich family
smiled. “We do what we want.” The ideol-
ginner. Bottled Widow Jane Pure Lime-
history, inspired the transformation of the
ogy is creating quality, organic products
stone Mineral Water is also available to
7,000 sq ft chocolate factory.
with unique methods and characteristics.
orange
1500
and
bottles
cinnamon
spice
A former mechanical and aero-
The combination distillery and
“We’re
very
creative,”
Nick
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 53
Summer 2013
Rather than add artificial flavors and in-
tion to the menu in the future. Devotion
gredients, they are the only producer in
to hand-crafted products even inspired
the world to distill liquors and rums di-
the team to build their own chocolate
rectly from Dominican cacao beans. The
making machines!
mixture is then infused with additional
beans for extra flavor before being aged in
of ideas, traditions, dreams and tech-
charred oak barrels.
nology.” They are designing their own
And the vision doesn’t end with
rules, continually defying expectations
liqueurs, bourbon and chocolate. They
while churning out superior products. A
have successfully introduced products
recipe of commitment, creativity and
like Fountain of Youth Facial Soap, with
craftsmanship, sprinkled with a dash
the possibility of adding cigars and SPF lo-
of fun, accelerates Cacao Prieto’s rise as
Cacao Prieto is a “meeting place
a leader
in the COMMUNITY
of craft culture.
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 57
ARY
T
PHO
Y
HY B
AP OGR
NC BRIA
W
DRIV E THR OUGH R OA D HEN THE W S OF YO U INDIN UMA ABOU T G FAR ILLA, T FIF M A T S Y MI N O RT M A LL TO LE H OF WN ORLA S N D O,
S IS RE CEN M
THE
THE
E R Y ENT
COUN OF T R Y ROAD KENT S U CK T
OF OR
INISC
ENNE
Y SSEE ,
AN A PPRO PRIA BECA TE C USE OMP WE A ARIS RE N ON OW I N FL O RIDA ’S
WH I S
KEY
CO U N
TRY.
As we approach the farm of Palm Ridge Reserve Distillery,
the bureaucratic legal system to obtain the necessary permits,
turning up the dirt and gravel driveway lined with oak
and in January 2009 Palm Ridge Reserve, the first Florida whis-
trees, we spot a lone palm tree on the right, the name
key distillery, was born. The whole operation yields about 500
sake of this craft whiskey distillery. The driveway continues into
cases per year and is done from start to finish by Marti and Dick
the center of the 80 acre former orange grove turned cattle ranch
with no machinery and no hired help; the couple runs it all, from
slash distillery, where standing in front of a converted 10 stall
mash to labels and everything in between. It starts with Marti,
horse barn is Dick Waters and one of the many farm dogs to greet
who hand measures the mash, using Florida corn from a local
us. After introducing himself and his companion, he leads us in-
grower and cold weather grains grown in the mid-west; a mix of
side toward his still. The 8 foot copper still sits below a large win-
barley malt, rye malt and flaked rye.
dow in a single stall that is lined with small whiskey barrels; this
is where the artisan magic happens.
ing practically no solid waste behind, in fact the grains that re-
The Palm Ridge Distillery is as “green” as it comes, leav-
Originating from Orlando, the husband and wife of Marti
main from the fermented mash later become the cattle feed. The
and Dick Waters invested in the Palm Ridge Farm in 1984 as a
separated liquid “whiskey wash” is transplanted to the 60 gallon
way to foster the growth of their youngest daughter’s interest in
copper still where Dick spends about 10-11 hours a day distill-
horseback riding. With both daughters grown, Marti and Dick
ing, yielding approximately 5 gallons a day, 6 days a week. The
were left to devise a plan for the land all their own. Both contin-
un-oaked whiskey affectionately called “white dog” is pulled from
ued with day jobs while maintaining the now cattle ranch, when a
the still and sampled by Dick to inspect the quality of the final
stroke of inspiration struck in 2008. Marti had discovered a news
product. “I’m picky…I can’t put shit into a barrel,” Dick says, as
story about Midwest farmers creating distilleries and producing
he continues to educate me on the significance of the quality of
spirits as a way to supplement their income. With Dick’s love of
the product that goes into the barrel, and how it can greatly affect
whiskey and the desire to move closer to the farm, it seemed only
the final outcome.
natural that the couple would fall into this endeavor.
the proper way of tasting whiskey: “Take a small sip on the tip of
The following 8 months were spent maneuvering through
Allowing me to taste the “white dog,” Dick coaches me in
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 61
PAGE 64 | MicroShiner.com
“
HE
REFU
MAKE SES OR ANYT SELL H I N THAT HEH G IWMSE OULD LF N’T DRIN K TO
”
your tongue and press it against the front teeth. Let it slide back
product at 8 months, the whiskey had a smoky aroma, notes of
over the top of your tongue, without mouth washing it.” He con-
vanilla, and citrus similar to that of a single malt. Marti adds that
tinues to explain that this is the best way to allow the flavors to
as a nod to their home state; they have incorporated orange chips
wash over the taste buds as this is not a shooting whiskey.
into the distilling process, bringing that citrus flavor that is so
commonly associated with whiskey and Florida to the forefront.
There is a common misconception about the aging pro-
cess that with age comes the smooth taste found in finished whis-
key; while the aging process is important for the final product,
labeled by Marti to complete the labor intensive process. But that
creating the color and intensity of the flavors, it is not solely re-
is hardly the end of the Waters’ involvement in craft distilling. With
sponsible for the quality of taste. I am here to say that the warm,
the surge in the craft distilling craze, and the movement to “Keep it
fresh-off-the-still “white dog” whiskey is a complement of clean
Local,” the Waters decided to get involved in the American Distill-
flavors and sweet citrus. So, why don’t we just drink it straight
ing Guild. The Guild is a group of 15 Florida distilleries that work
from the still? Why bother with the labor intensive and expensive
together to increase the awareness of this artisan liquor move-
procedure of aging? Dick enlightens me that putting a clean qual-
ment, and have helped set in motion Florida House Bill 347 that
ity whiskey through the oak aging process allows for the alcohol to
was signed into effect July 1, 2013. This bill essentially allows
mellow, creating a more robust rich flavor, with the deep caramel
Florida distilleries to sell up to 2 bottles for personal use when giv-
coloring that is the hallmark of a quality whiskey.
ing a tour, an effort by the guild to foster craft distillery growth.
Dick leads me to one of the neighboring horse stalls that
Finally, the finished product is then bottled and hand
In fact, Representative Alan Hays, one of the supporters
once again is lined with small whiskey barrels; each barrel holds
and key players in the development of Bill 347, stopped by to take
up to 24 bottles, a total of 5 gallons of the finished product. When
some of his staffers through the tour of this distilling process.
asked why he uses the smaller barrels when most mainstream
“They call this Umatilla Gold up in Tallahassee,” Hays beams as
distilleries use the large 53 gallon barrels, Dick explains that al-
he walks into the barn, shaking Dick’s hand. Representative Hays
though the smaller barrels lead to an increase of evaporation of
is a regular visitor here at the Palm Ridge Distillery, being a local
the final product, somewhere around 20%, the remaining prod-
Umatillian and a whiskey fan himself.
uct has a more intense flavor profile. And he clarifies that he re-
fuses to make or sell anything that he himself wouldn’t drink,
Dick responds that they are looking to progress into white whiskey
something his loyal customers, a demographic 25 to 50 years
within the next couple of years. But until then, the unique charac-
old, appreciate.
When we began sampling the whiskey, progressing
When asked what is next for this local boutique distillery,
ter of Palm Ridge Reserve and their bourbon-style whiskey can be found all over Florida.
through the aging process at intervals of 3 months and 6 months, the small sips, each unique in their own right, had a noted mat-
For a full listing, and more information regarding sales and tours,
uration of their rich complex flavors. Upon sampling the final
visit their website: http://www.palmridgereserve.com.
PAGE 68 | MicroShiner.com
PAGE 70 | MicroShiner.com
American Distilling Institute Hands-On Workshops Annual Conference & Expo Craft Spirits Certification Program Judging of Artisan American Spirits
for information about craft distilling go to
distilling.com
Photo by David Lyman ÂŤ MicroShiner.com | PAGE 73
PAGE 74 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Vincent Buckley
Missoula, Montana www.HurrocaneClothing.com
THE ELLENSBURG DISTILLERY
The Ellensburg Distillery 1000 North Prospect St. Suite 3, Ellensburg, WA 98926 (509) 925-1295 | http://www.TheEllensburgDistillery.com