MicroShiner - Issue 04

Page 1

MicroShiner Summer 2013

Definitive Guide to the World of Craft Spirits

CACAO PRIETO

Rum & Chocolate

Made from the Same Sugar!

THE NEW FACE

OF GIN

Dancing Pines & Spirit Hound

THE WOODIEMAN PALM RIDGE RESERVE SUMMER 2013

$10.99 US/CAN



MicroShiner Join the Movement—Subscribe Now!




PAGE 6 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Brian Cary


contents 2013

summer

Letter From the Publisher Crafting Cocktails—Bartender Interview Drinking Music In Season—The New Face of Gin New Twists on Summertime Gin Cocktails The Woodieman Bitter Sweet Heaven—Cacao Prieto A Refreshing Diversion—Palm Ridge Reserve

11 13 14 19

30 36 45 58


PAGE 8 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by David Lyman


Summer 2013

Publisher Design Director Copy Editor Staff Contributors

Staff Photographers

Cobey Williamson Alex Vitti David Lyman Nels Wroe Marisa Lyon Kimberly Naslund Jeff Mattson Luc Nadeau Michael Marquand Brian Cary

Marketing

Ryan Murphy

Webmaster

Kelsey Binder Working Dog Media, LLC 1406 Summerdale Rd Corvallis, MT 59828

Summer 2013 Contributors

Christina Cary

Marc Woltinger

Brian Cary

A physical therapist by day and pop-n-locker by night, Christina graduated with a degree in print journalism from Jacksonville State University, and a Doctorate in PT from University of Miami. Sonoma, CA is home, but has taken the East Coast and their local Pubs by storm...next stop Washington, DC.

Marc Wöltinger is a freelance automotive journalist, copywriter and author. He was born in Switzerland but has a German passport and currently resides in San Clemente, California, where he’s trying to surf and writing a book about drag racing in the early 1950s.

Brian is a photographer, scuba diver, skydiver, & because he’s gotta pay the bills... bar manager. When not serving up craft cocktails you’ll usually find him falling from the sky at 13,000 feet, or swimming 100 feet under the ocean. Though California’s wine country will always be home, he has lived all over this planet including Alaska and Thailand.

©2013 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine cannot be duplicated without the prior written consent of the owner. The views contained within the contents of MicroShiner Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of its owners or staff.

Cover Photo by Brian Cary | Inside Cover Photo by Luc Nadeau

Photo by Brian Cary « MicroShiner.com | PAGE 9


PAGE 10 | MicroShiner.com

Âť

Photo by Vincent Buckley


Letter from the

PUBLISHER

Summer always reminds me of hanging out with my friends in the parking lot of our hometown bowling alley, after the sun had set and the world was cast in the ethereal luster of the protracted twilight. Most of us were not yet of drinking age, and those that were lived blissfully ignorant that any alternative to the ubiquitous can of Coors Light even existed. There were only a handful of microbreweries operating in the U.S. at the time, and the term “craft”, as we know it today, had yet to be coined. The idea of choosing something because it was unique, distinctive, or original was almost completely foreign to us, except in one regard. Whether it was a jacked up four by four, rusty American classic, or lowly Japanese import, the first thing on every young car owner’s mind was how they could make it their own. Cruising the strip was de rigueur on Saturday night and creating a distinct appearance, no matter if you were driving an old farm truck or the family K-car, was paramount. Most of the work performed on these vehicles was done by hand, with little or no budget, and often was the only outlet for craftsmanship that any of us knew. It’s easy to forget, in this age of robot welding, CNC machines and internet shopping, that every single product we trade and use was made by someone. And as technology marches forward, moving us ever closer to the perfectly automated production line, it becomes even more easily overlooked. We no longer see firsthand the people working on the goods we buy. We are insulated from the process, to the point that today the very notion of doing something by hand has become boutique. To me, this is a blessing in disguise. When I think about the period when I was young, the 70s and 80s, everything came from an assembly line. It took banality, pure box store predictability, to push us to where we are today. It took turning the whole world plastic to make the elemental cool. In this, our Summer issue, you will find the stories of a select group of individuals who are committed to keeping their hands in the process. From the handcrafted products of Cacao Prieto to the total hands-on approach of Palm Ridge Reserve, each of these producers has dedicated themselves to reviving that sense of distinction and individuality that lives in the heart of every hot rodder, cruising to the local hangout on a hot August night. Cobey Williamson Publisher


Dominic Venegas pours a freshly mixed custom cocktail.

PAGE 12 | MicroShiner.com


CRAFTING

COCKTAILS

BARTENDER INTERVIEW The Manhattan Cocktail Classic

KIMBERLY

he contrary nature of mid-

cocktails that resemble something like

NASLUND

town Manhattan and a spir-

a hairstyling product to classic drinks

its company from Utah called

crafted with quality spirits that have stood

High West make an interesting backdrop.

ing up

In a crowded suite on the 11th floor of

for 15 years accumulating a collection of

The

awards and professional accolades.

all from the city. Damon Boelte arrived in

shakes up a custom cocktail. He asks

He’s optimistic about the future

New York from Oklahoma City. His diverse

a couple of questions. What kind of

of craft spirits. “I see craft spirits improv-

background as a musician serves him well

whiskey do you prefer? Do you like very

ing every year.” He’s embraced what some

as he hosts a weekly radio show about

sweet drinks?

see as a problem with craft spirits. “I’m a

his craft and runs a pop-up bar service

He’s one of hundreds of bar-

big fan of one offs and seasonals. Custom-

at concerts.

tenders that have converged on Midtown

ers love something they know was hard to

for the Manhattan Cocktail Classic. With

make and maybe there’s only 100 bottles.”

sic Pisco Sour. The soft foam of the egg

so many interesting and diverse bever-

As chatter fills the tiny room he swiftly

whites is followed by a refreshing burst of

age professionals meeting to develop

stirs the cocktail in a glass.

citrus and the dry finish of bitters. This

and support this craft it didn’t seem

The finished drink is an expres-

cocktail is skillfully made, and the bar-

wise to visit with just one. The most

sion of Dominic’s honed ability to have a

tender from Oklahoma no more out of

skilled and experienced of the trade

conversation with his customer, under-

place in this hustling environment than

arrived in New York to share their knowl-

stand what they prefer, and make them

the spirit company from the mountains

edge during several days of classes. Spirit

feel as if they were catching up with an old

of Utah.

brands large and small take advantage of

friend. It’s an eloquent demonstration of

the opportunity to present their spirits to

bartending at its best, not only in the art

the bartenders attending the classic adds

some of the most enthusiastic bartenders

of the drink but of hospitality as well.

to the energy of the entire event. Each

one can hope to meet.

Down the hall is a string of suites

tradesman brings their own skill set, per-

This is where I meet Dominic;

hosted by spirit brands, filled with similar

sonality and taste, similar to the limitless

he is working with High West, featuring

talent, conversation and drinking. There’s

array of spirits available from the many

their line of whiskies. He has been mix-

a little bit of everything here, from bizarre

producers large and small.

Andaz

Hotel,

Dominic

Venegas

drinks

the test of time. Bartenders of this caliber aren’t

He vigorously shakes up a clas-

The diversity of backgrounds in

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 13


Drinking Music usic and spirits are inextricably intertwined.

for no greater purpose than sheer enjoyment.

Whether it’s the rat pack & martinis, the jazz

age and bathtub gin, saloon whiskey and a

ket is awash with corporate product. Artists are groomed

player piano, or just pickin’ on the porch with a jar of shine,

and selected based on one thing: their ability to sell records.

where you find one, you will likely find the other. So many

All of the coarseness and irregularity is eliminated, and

analogies exist between the two that we felt, as a magazine

much of the nuance and the intangible lost. To paraphrase

about craft and spirits, inclined - nay almost obliged - to

Neil Young at the onset of the digital age, the real music lives

dedicate some space to music.

between the 0 and 1.

Music is a craft. Doing it well depends on bringing

Just as it is in the spirits business, the music mar-

In that regard, and in keeping with the theme

a number of elements together in just the right proportions,

of this publication, what we hope to offer you here is that

and as with crafting spirits the resultant product is always

space between the step and the curve that is so important,

greater than the sum of its parts. Differences in equipment,

yet often goes overlooked. Here we hope to share some

training, ingredients, recipes are reflected in subtle, and

bands and music that you might just find playing onstage

sometimes not so subtle, variations in character, flavor, ten-

in your local tasting room or watering hole. Here, as with

or, and tone. Each begins with a handful of raw material that, through a practiced and perfected process, culminates in a refined and handcrafted product, often

the micro-distilleries we focus on, you just might happen upon someone you know, and together enjoy a little drinking music.

San Cisco Self-Titled

Summer is here, and what better way to celebrate with some up and coming nerd rock? With a modern surf

help but tap your foot, smile,

them some good exposure in

the playful “Wild Things”.

rock style reminiscent of the

roll your windows down and

Australia. Their next release,

The self-titled album is a

Drums, these young members

enjoy your summer.

the “Awkward EP” saw an in-

joyful ride filled with plenty

Direct from Australia, de-

creasingly interested fan base.

of hooks, simple yet fulfill-

sound with bright guitars,

spite what their name might

Their self-titled album is a

ing pop arrangements, and

bouncing bass lines, dreamy

suggest, these young rockers

refined work, hinted at sub-

blooming lyrics. Recommend-

synth chords, and some tight

are riding a wonderful debut

tly by their EPs. It features a

ed tracks include “Beach”,

percussion. Their sound is

full length after the release

collection of upbeat songs

“Metaphors”, and “Nepal”.

the sound of a love and sun

of a few EPs. Their second

such as the honestly mat-

Fits perfectly with rum on

filled summer. You really can’t

“Golden Revolver EP” got

ter of fact “Fred Astaire”, and

the beach.

of San Cisco stack their

PAGE 14 | MicroShiner.com


In The Valley Below

of folk, blues, and darkwave, with simmering female and male vocals gives this band a distinct sound. They have yet to release a full length but at the moment they have a couple of EPs

Self-Titled EP & Hymnal EP

that are well worth the listen. The “Hymnal EP” and their self-titled EP, which contains

While attending a show in Los

a group by the name of In The

and Jeffrey Jacob, and a full

two of the three songs on the

Angeles to see a band named

Valley Below. It turned out

backing band, they deliver a

“Hymnal EP”, are both darkly

Wildcat! Wildcat!, I was fortu-

to be quite the performance.

menacingly

live

romantic. “I wish I found you

nate enough to work my way

Comprised of two contribut-

show. The guitar tone is what

sooner, I could have loved you

inside and see the warm up,

ing songwriters, Angela Gail

struck

passionate

me

initially:

rough,

longer” both of them whisper

subtly

bluesy,

coarse

together over a steady low

mids and lows, some-

rumbling bass line in the song

times

dark,

“The Hymn”. And from their

brilliantly

self-titled EP, “Take Me Back”

scorching. Drawing you

carries a menacingly brood-

in,

sinisterly

ing verse, heavily broken by a

over the dark electronic

hopeful yet sorrowful chorus.

synths common in many

Combine the EPs and you get

of their songs, but fit it

five darkly auspicious songs.

does, moreover it sears

A distinct sound and plenty

through the darkness.

of depth, keep an eye out for

But the focus is less on

their debut full length. Give

the guitar though and

them a couple of spins paired

more on the dark instru-

with your favorite spirit and if

mental

you get the chance, see them

perfectly

other

times floating

tones

carrying

the swirling vocals. Hints

Wampire Curiosity

live, it’s well worth it.

Eric Phipps, who originally

a gorgeous drowsy aurora, the

you eager for more, and sad-

started playing electronic mu-

only complaint I have is that

dened when you realize this

sic at house parties in Port-

it’s much too short. A mere

album just released, so it’ll be

land. When dancing around

nine songs and just over 32

a wait. Personal favorites in-

the Portland area with their

minutes in length, it leaves

clude “Giants” with its opening

electro bass music got old,

wah pedal majesty,

they decided to strap on some

the aforementioned

guitars and get a full band to-

album opener, and

gether. The end result is some

“Trains”,

fuzzy,

lad that my friend

synthed-out,

psyche-

delic rock. The album opener “The

a

bal-

would describe as affluent

nautical

Hearse” is a new wave woozy

lounge rock, if that

dream, layers of synth and de-

can possibly be an

lay drenched guitar create a

expressive auditory

Portland, Oregon based band

beautiful wall of hazy din that

description. This is

Wampire

dropped

delights listeners hungry for

music best enjoyed

their album ‘Curiosity’ just

modern music with strong in-

with a whiskey sour,

this past spring. One part new

fluences from the old sounds

I might even con-

wave, one part rock, complete-

of psychedelic rock and 80’s

sent to a traditional

ly psychedelic on all levels.

new wave, come to think of it,

pilsner, under as

The group’s songwriting duo

I don’t know whose ears this

many neon lights as

comprises Rocky Tinder and

wouldn’t please. The album is

one can handle.

recently

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 15



Kings County Distillery, Brooklyn Navy Yard, Bldg 121, Samds Street Gate, Brooklyn, NYC

www.KingsCountyDistillery.com - Tours and Tastings every Saturday 2:30 to 5:30



–In Season­–

THE NEW FACE OF GIN — By Nels Wroe — PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUC NADEAU


t’s hot. Darn hot. The black pavement of US Highway 66

US were showcasing their twists on gin, both classic and con-

looks eerily insubstantial in the radiating heat waves on

temporary. The number of variations being poured, from complex

the way to Lyons, Colorado, home to Spirit Hound distill-

barrel-aged gins to pristine double-distilled classics, surprised

ers. It’s easy to find – the restored 1938 Buick Opera Coupe

both novice attendees and industry veterans.

parked outside the distillery is an uncommon sight most

places, let alone the parking lot of a distillery in the foothills

ing a resurgence within the microdistilling movement. There are

outside Boulder.

few spirits as steeped in history and tradition that allow dis-

Craig Englehorn, Master Distiller (who pre-

fers the title of “Mad Scientist’), and Talia Tiram, Operations and Logistics Manager (who prefers the self-proclaimed title of ‘Whisky Maiden’) are already busy; Craig wrapping up a busy day with the still and Talia behind the bar, sliding ice-filled glasses to patrons as they welcome the cool respite from the heat of the afternoon. The tasting room at Spirit Hound is well known among locals as

Perhaps it shouldn’t come as a surprise that gin is mak-

tillers such creativity and – dare I say it – Terroir to shape the outcome. Gin is the offspring of the juniper

“PERHAPS IT SHOULDN’T COME AS A SURPRISE THAT GIN IS MAKING A RESURGENCE WITHIN THE MICRODISTILLING MOVEMENT. THERE ARE FEW SPIRITS AS STEEPED IN HISTORY AND TRADITION THAT ALLOW DISTILLERS SUCH CREATIVITY AND – DARE I SAY IT – TERROIR TO SHAPE THE OUTCOME.”

berry, which imparts the archetypal evergreen-like bite to the drink. Originally created as a medicinal elixir, many people that have grown up with the widely available commercial brands argue that gin hasn’t moved too far from the

original

‘medicinal’

flavor profile. on e, ”

“Gin is a tricky sa ys

Naslund,

Ki m be r l y

one

of

the

the latest summer hot spot. The team there serves up a host of

founders of Dancing Pines Distillery in Loveland, Colorado. Danc-

creative cocktails, including several that are new spins on ‘clas-

ing Pines Gin won Silver at the American Distilling Institute’s 7th

sic’ summer drinks crafted with their Spirit Hound Gin.

annual American craft spirits competition, notably in the ‘Con-

Gin, it seems, is also hot this season. Stereotypically an

temporary Gin’ class. “Historically, gin can be hard to love – peo-

old school drink, a gin renaissance is underway as both distillers

ple either love it or hate it, and they tend to be loyal to a label. It

and patrons are rediscovering this venerable and versatile spirit.

took us a long time and a lot of experimentation to develop our

Earlier this year at the DSTILL event in Denver, this underdog

final recipe. We wanted something that we liked, not just what

liquor practically stole the show. Distillers from all parts of the

was traditional (for gin).”

PAGE 20 | MicroShiner.com



PAGE 22 | MicroShiner.com





he juniper berry is the

foundation

of

gin’s classic flavor profile, but there can be great variation in other botanicals used to craft the spirit. The Naslunds went through a creative

“SPIRIT HOUND EVEN OFFERS TO BUY LOCAL PATRONS A COCKTAIL WHEN THEY BRING IN A BAG OF JUNIPER BERRIES SOURCED FROM THEIR OWN YARD.”

period where they com-

into the liquor. The Dancing Pines team uses a cold maceration technique, one of the many different methods used in creating signature flavor profiles in gin. Cold maceration is not common, and relies exclusively on the alcohol to extract the essence from the

bined a bit of everything in their botanicals, resulting

botanicals. “In many cases, heat is used to extract the

in a muddied, overly complex profile that compound-

oils – whether it’s steam or hot water. We find that us-

ed the ‘love it or hate it’ reaction from their tasters. “We

ing heat also leached out some of the bitter compounds

love to experiment, but it is easy to overdo it with gin. Once we

we don’t want into the gin,” explains Naslund.

decided we couldn’t please everyone, we made the decision to craft

something we would enjoy. We selected six botanicals we love, and

ture Gin. Holding up a deceptively small wire basket, Craig Engle-

the result is a much cleaner profile,” Naslund commented.

horn extracts the essence from his botanicals by letting the hot

Dancing Pines Gin has a pronounced licorice flavor with

vapors from the still wash through the mix to flavor the spirit.

bright notes of citrus that are clean and crisp. It is a far cry from

“The basket method lets us control each batch using the mix of

the evergreen-heavy tang many people associate with gin, and sur-

botanicals we want. We don’t stretch the botanicals this way,”

prisingly complex as the distinct highlights of the botanicals make

Englehorn notes.

their way across the palate. The light touch of the flavors in their

gin may well come from the process used to infuse the botanicals

sourced juniper berries for their gin’s delicate, brighter charac-

PAGE 26 | MicroShiner.com

Spirit Hound uses a gin basket to create their signa-

He credits the extraction method and 100% locally-


Summer 2013

ter. Spirit Hound even offers to buy local patrons a cocktail when they bring in a bag of juniper berries sourced from their own yard. “The more local we can get the berries, the better. Heck, if I can get a consistent supply of fresh juniper from our own back yards, then I’m happy to buy folks a drink or two,” he grins. Of no small importance is the added benefit of getting the freshest juniper berries possible. “There is no better way to store the berries than on the plant itself,” he points out.

The mix of botanicals is a very personal and

local choice. There are the classics – coriander, citrus peel, anise - but setting the required juniper berries aside, the final choice of aromatics and herbs can be wonderfully local. Gins from distillers around the country are crafting authentic spirits that are an extension of the place they were born. San Juan Island Distillery in Washington (http://www.sanjuanislanddistillery.com) crafts their highly-regarded gins with island-foraged blackberries and wild roses. They even harvest early spring growth from the Douglas fir trees that grow nearby.

Wheeler’s Western Dry Gin by Santa Fe Spir-

its (http://www.santafespirits.com), located in the heart of the Southwest, celebrates the parched landscape using cactus flowers and other desert aromatics in their hand-selected mix of botanicals. A sampling of Wheeler’s at the weeklong DSTILL events in Denver earlier this year showcased just how distinct different gins can be – the striking currents of melon, sage and the compelling, smoky yet floral base within was markedly

Bistro in Boulder, Colorado (http://saltboulderbistro.com) to run

different from many of the other dry gins at the event.

their pre-release gins through a wide range of classic and new

The art of creating the ideal mix of botanicals used in

cocktails. Spirit Hound has the benefit of a close working rela-

crafting gin could fill an entire tome. Pair the natural inclina-

tionship with their colleagues at the Lyons Fork (http://lyonsfork.

tion that micro distillers have towards experimentation with the

com), and their spirits make regular appearances at other leading

myriad choices of flavoring agents, and creativity has exploded in

restaurants in the area, including The Kitchen Boulder, a com-

the creation of world-class gins. In some ways, this has created

munity bistro in the heart of downtown.

a challenge for the industry; it’s difficult to compare and clas-

sify gins from different distillers through a common lens. Multiple

the recipes) deserves significant credit in the gin renaissance. Dis-

classifications for the spirit are a norm, with The American Distill-

tillers are taking great care in creating complex and accessible

ing Institute offering six categories: Classic Gin, Contemporary

creations to open up this historically curmudgeonly spirit in new

Gin, Aged Gin, Old Tom Gin, Genever, and Cordial Gin.

and creative ways. Food pairings extend the creativity beyond the

For patrons of the “art of gin,” the range of styles is a

bottle, and the subtle but direct influence of local flavors in hand-

boon. Hand-crafted gin is becoming the new favorite of restaura-

crafted gin finds chefs – and patrons - reaching more frequently

teurs, bartenders, and foodies alike due to the subtle (or not so

for the gin bottle than ever before.

subtle) variations found in each bottle. This makes gin a creative

compliment for pairing with foods, both as a base for recipes and

alike to explore and expand their worlds. It takes an open mind to

as a perfectly matched drink of choice. Similar to highlights in

revisit and reinvent this classic, but Talia at Spirit Hound notes

wine, the flavors infused by the botanicals have unique charac-

that the drink might surprise even the most diehard loyalists. This

teristics that can beautifully underscore ingredients and spices in

as Craig steps in behind the bar to help mix and serve drinks, an

paired dishes.

uncommon activity for him. “There’s a reason we call him ‘Cranky

Craig’ and don’t let him up front too often,” Talia laughs.

Both Spirit Hound and Dancing Pines have close con-

This food-forward, local approach (flip two pages to see

Gin is a modern platform for craft distillers and patrons

nections with local restaurants, at times even relying on their staff

to test, sample, and shape the final selection of botanicals used

or passes a drink down the bar, he’s living proof that even the

But watching peoples’ faces light up as he cracks a joke

by the distillers. Dancing Pines asked their friends at the Salt

most uncompromising spirits can rise to the occasion.

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 27




NEW TWISTS ON SUMM THEAVIATION Talia Tiram,

Spirit Hound, Lyons, CO “The Aviation is one of our most popular cocktails. It’s a local take on a Great Gatsby-era summer drink, although it’s equally enjoyable after the weather cools down.”

3 OUNCES

SPIRIT HOUND GIN

1.5 OUNCES

AMARENA CHERRY SYRUP

1.5 OUNCES

FRESH SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE

Shake, strain, garnish with Amarena Sour Black Cherries. PAGE 30 | MicroShiner.com


MERTIME GIN COCKTAILS BEE’SKNEES Kimberly and Kristian Naslund, Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland,CO

“This is one of our favorite summertime cocktails. It’s a classic, but whenever we make it for people, they can’t believe it’s got gin as the base. The tartness of the lemon balances the sweetness of the honey and highlights the bright citrus from the grapefruit in the gin.”

2 OUNCES

DANCING PINES GIN

¾HONEY OUNCES SYRUP

½ OUNCES

FRESH LEMON JUICE

Pour the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with lemon. MicroShiner.com | PAGE 31


GRILLED RIB EYE STEAKS WITH GIN Yield: About 4 servings

Ingredients Four 10-Ounce

BONELESS RIB EYE STEAKS

1 Tablespoon

WHOLE PEPPERCORNS

1 Teaspoon

WHOLE ALLSPICE BERRIES

1 Teaspoon

DRIED JUNIPER BERRIES

1 Tablespoon

KOSHER SALT

2 Tablespoons

FLAT LEAF PARSLEY, minced

1 Cup

CHICKEN STOCK

1 Cup

HEAVY WHIPPING CREAM

¼ Cup

ROUNDHOUSE BARREL AGED GIN

1 Tablespoon

UNSALTED BUTTER

Directions

1.

2.

Using a coffee grinder, blend

3.

Grill steaks over high heat

and grind the peppercorns,

until desired temperature,

allspice, juniper berries, and

transfer to a cutting board and

salt. Trim the steaks and

let rest for 3 minutes before

season liberally on both sides

cutting. Slice steaks, against

with spice blend, making sure

the grain into 1” strips. Stir

to leave a little of the blend

any excess jus from the steaks

Chef Chris Bybee has been in the food industry for nearly

behind for the sauce.

into the sauce pan. Whisk the

20 years, in virtually every capacity.

butter and parsley into the

He opened a restaurant in the

sauce just before serving

Caribbean, has operated a catering

Add the remaining spice blend and the chicken stock into a small sauce pan and bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and cook until reduced by 2/3. Stir in Gin and heavy cream and continue to cook on low heat while preparing the grill.

PAGE 32 | MicroShiner.com » Photo by Luc Nadeau

4.

business, and works for Indian To serve, shingle cut rib eyes

Harvest artisan grain company as

onto plate and spoon the gin

an R&D chef developing creative,

sauce on top.

real-world recipes for clients. He is based outside of Boulder, Colorado where he explores local and exotic foods on a daily basis, sharing his creations with friends and family.


Summer 2013

PAN SEARED SCALLOPS w/ BARREL AGED GIN OVER CREAMY POLENTA Yield: About 4 servings

Ingredients Twelve U10

SEA SCALLOPS

½ Cup

ROUNDHOUSE IMPERIAL BARREL AGED GIN

2 Teaspoons

CANOLA OIL

3 Teaspoons

COLD BUTTER, cut into 1 inch pieces

1 Cup

ITALIAN STYLE POLENTA

½ Cup

ASIAGO CHEESE

½ Cup

HALF AND HALF

3 Cups

LIGHTLY SALTED WATER or CHICKEN STOCK

1 Bunch

FRESH CHIVES, cut into ¼ inch slices

To taste

KOSHER SALT & GROUND BLACK PEPPER

Directions

1.

In a small pot, bring the water

per side. Remove the scallops

or stock to a boil and whisk in

to a paper towel to remove

the polenta. Reduce the heat

excess oil.

to low and cook while stirring until the polenta thickens, about 15 minutes. Stir in the

2.

3.

Deglaze pan with Gin, reduce heat, and whisk in cold butter.

half and half and asiago cheese

Let the sauce reduce by half

and set aside.

while stirring.

Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Heat a sauté pan

4.

To serve, spoon polenta onto plate and top with scallops.

on stove and add the oil. Just

Spoon gin sauce over scallops

before oil begins to smoke add

and top with diced chives.

the scallops. Sear the scallops

Serve hot.

on both sides, about a minute



MicroShiner.com | PAGE 35


W

oodieman

Encinitas, California hat comes to your mind when you picture the terms “California”, “Surf Culture” and “1960s”? You probably think of

the Beach Boys first. Well, you’re almost there, but we want you to come up with the other cliché. Think “transportation” if that helps. There you go!

In fact, the Woodie is one of the

most omnipresent images when it comes to the essential elements of the surf craze of the early 1960s. Today, more than ever, you find Woodies plastered on every kind of merchandise being sold along the Pacific Coast, from t-shirts to coffee mugs to toilet seats. This popularity, combined with the rarity of these vehicles, has pushed prices through the roof in the last couple of decades. And while surfers back in the day loved woodies for their practicality—you could easily haul a longboard around and still have a cozy place to crash at night— they also appreciated them for being cheap means of transport. Today the market price for a perfectly restored Woodie from the 1940s to the early 50s can easily reach $150,000.

Another factor affecting their rise

in value is the complexity involved with restoring a Woodie. While it already takes a lot of skill, patience and money to bring even your ‘average’ classic car back to

PAGE 36 | MicroShiner.com

The

Photos and Words by Marc Wöltinger


^ABOVE Ron handpicks a combo of ash, mahogany and maple to construct the superstructure of this vehicle with absolute perfection.


PAGE 38 | MicroShiner.com





life, in this case you may also need some-

When restoring a Woodie, Ron

at his preferred supplier in San Diego. The

one who really knows his way around the

usually starts by disassembling the wood-

other reason is that he wants to make sure

Woodie’s wood. One of the chosen few is

en structure, or what has been left of it.

there are no black marks on the wood. It’s

Ron Heiden. He’s been restoring Woodies

With the help of the patterns he has for

this attention to detail that makes Ron

for three decades and operates a shop in

most Ford and Chevrolet Woodies, he

one of the preeminent Woodie restorers in

Encinitas, a picturesque California beach

starts building the superstructure first.

the country.

town in San Diego County.

Both manufacturers had their own prefer-

Ron Heiden’s shop exemplifies

ence of wood, so accordingly Ron uses ash

everything apart. He starts sanding the piec-

that perfect ratio of artistic chaos and

frame wood on a Chevy but opts for maple

es in order to get them ready to be stained or

engineered tidiness, spiced up with a lot

on a Ford. The panels, however, are ma-

later on varnished. The varnishing process

of history and soul. Apart from wood in

hogany on both makes.

alone takes around 100 hours. The frame

all sizes and shapes like panels, slats, and

This first assembly of the wooden

pieces for example each receive 10 -15 coats

beams, there are dozens of dusty photo-

structure allows Ron to fit and adjust the

of varnish and have to be sanded smooth

graphs of happy customers’ cars next to

doors, the tailgate, and the liftgate. At this

after every coat. Through this painstak-

After the first assembly, Ron takes

an endless array

ing process, Ron

of

woodworking

is able to create a

tools, saws, drills,

flawless finish that

vise

and

will withstand the

files. And just so

weather and look

his visitors have no

great for years to

doubt that this re-

come. With each

ally is a busy shop,

and every piece of

everything is cov-

wood finished, it

ered with a delicate

is time for the final

layer of sawdust.

assembly. In this way

Ron

years

clamps

After of

30

rebuilds

or

refurbishes 5 to 7

restor-

Woodies a year.

ing Woodies, it is

“Apart from wood in all sizes and shapes like panels, slats, and beams, there are dozens of dusty photographs of happy customers’ cars next to an endless array of woodworking tools, saws, drills, vise clamps and files. And just so his visitors have no doubt that this really is a busy shop, everything is covered with a delicate layer of sawdust.”

as certain as the constant waves at San

point, all the wooden parts are just roughly

Onofre Beach that Ron Heiden has a lot

sanded. Perfectly aligned parts, smoothly

storer do in his spare time? Drive his own

of experience with these machines. Most

working doors, and consistent gaps are

wooden station wagon of course, a 1950

of what he knows today is self-taught. Be-

some of the crucial aspects in a high qual-

Ford. And with a 1947 teardrop camp-

ing handy and understanding mechanical

ity Woodie restoration. Ron even goes a

ing trailer in tow and his girlfriend in the

things by just looking at them also helped.

step further, making sure the grain of the

passenger’s seat, Ron loves nothing more

But that’s merely the understated view Ron

wood lines up nicely on the doors on each

than to explore the back roads and high-

has of himself. Other people say he’s an

side. That’s one of the reasons why he per-

ways of the West, just like a Woodie was

artist – as simple as that.

sonally handpicks all the wood he needs

meant to do.

PAGE 42 | MicroShiner.com

And what does a Woodie re-


Summer 2013



BITTER

SWEET HEAVEN By MARISA LYON PHOTOGRAPHY by BRIAN CARY

T

he difference is in the

Located in the Catskills, the limestone

water,� Nick grinned,

cave possesses naturally filtered water

pointing to a photo of

overflowing with minerals, giving it an

a crystalline pool. The

exceptionally sweet taste. With a swirl

tranquil waters of the

of the glass, I quickly discovered Nick

underground

mine

ap-

was correct.

peared as inviting as the sparkling copper

bourbon in my hand.

the Widow Jane mine, the cobblestone

Similar to the serene waters of

Widow Jane Bourbon, the new-

streets of Red Hook, Brooklyn, offer a

est of Cacao Prieto’s creations, is as pure

quiet respite. Hidden from the hustle and

and unique as it sounds. The Kentucky

bustle of city life, they have sanctified

bourbon with a Brooklyn twist is brought

their suburban neighborhood charm and

to life by the mineral rich waters of

provide an idyllic home to the artisanal in-

its namesake, the Widow Jane Mine.

novators of Cacao Prieto.



MicroShiner.com | PAGE 47



Summer 2013

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 49


O

ne particular tree-lined street foretells of succulent

sweetness

ahead. Street signs entice patrons to a three story brick build-

ing on the corner. “Bitter sweet heaven… awaits you… don’t pass by.” Inside the looming doorway there’s a frenzy of activity. The team hurries about as a mixture of chatter and laughter soars over the purr of the custom 1000 liter still.

An

aesthetician’s

dream,

the

chic, repurposed warehouse mirrors the organic appeal of the custom specialties it harbors. Brick walls connect the towering plate glass windows and plank hardwood floors of the loft-style retail space. To the left, bottles of Cacao Rum and Widow Jane Bourbon decorate the wall and the long glass display case before it. To the right, a second display of decadent chocolate bars, bonbons and dark chocolate samples beckon for a taste. Behind a segmented glass wall towers the glistening copper still, humming melodiously as it transforms its contents into treasures.

Nick, the distillery’s produc-

tion manager, didn’t waste a moment, offering a warm hello and tasty sample of rum practically simultaneously. Naturally proud, he wanted the uniqueness of Cacao’s delicacies to speak for themselves.

In addition to the exclusive

Widow Jane Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey, Cacao Prieto distills a line of small batch liqueurs and rums. Earthy and complex, both Don Rafael Cacao Rum and Don Estaban Cacao Liqueur are distilled from organic cacao and sugar cane. Nick poured samples of the delightfully smooth, award winning rum. The aroma of honeyed sugar cane and coffee was accentuated by its rich, dark chocolate flavor with a hint of oak and dash of vanilla.

Don

Estaban

Cacao

Liqueur

would make the perfect chocolate martini. Similar to the rum, it boasts a luscious chocolate base with notes of toffee and caramel topped with a dash of spice.



Cacao Prieto’s dream is to expand their products well beyond liquor and chocolate. Their recently introduced Fountain of Youth Facial Soap has already been very well recieved.

PAGE 52 | MicroShiner.com


Summer 2013

The COMBINATION

DISTILLERY and

CHOCOLATE

FACTORY is UNCOMMON,

but ORDINARY isn’t in CACAO PRIETO’S

VOCABULARY.

W

idow Jane Bourbon

accompany the bourbon, rather than

was originally in-

risk diluting its richness with “regular

opened its doors in 2009. Perfecting its

The beans to bars operation

troduced as a five

tap water.”

chocolate decadence, the company sourc-

year spirit, but the

What truly establishes Cacao

es their organic cacao and sugar cane

sold

Prieto as an artisanal leader is not only the

directly from Coralina Farms, Dan’s fam-

out quickly, inspiring the

use of such key ingredients as limestone

ily run plantations in the Dominican Re-

now seven year reserve to fill its void. An

water, but also the innovative science

public. The alcohol byproduct produced

exceptionally light, buttercream scent

behind their methods. Lead by visionary

during fermentation lead Dan to work his

rose from the glass before notes of

founder Dan Prieto Preston, the team con-

magic distilling rums, followed by the ad-

cherry

stantly conceptualizes ideas, testing new

dition of whiskey last fall.

danced across the palate. Topped with

products, blends and fusions.

a citrus snap, the medium-bodied fin-

chocolate factory is uncommon, but ordi-

ish read more mature than a traditional

space engineer, Dan is an innate creator.

nary isn’t in Cacao Prieto’s vocabulary.

seven year and is ideal for both the ex-

His inventive nature, combined with an

perienced bourbon lover and curious be-

engineering background and rich family

smiled. “We do what we want.” The ideol-

ginner. Bottled Widow Jane Pure Lime-

history, inspired the transformation of the

ogy is creating quality, organic products

stone Mineral Water is also available to

7,000 sq ft chocolate factory.

with unique methods and characteristics.

orange

1500

and

bottles

cinnamon

spice

A former mechanical and aero-

The combination distillery and

“We’re

very

creative,”

Nick

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 53





Summer 2013

Rather than add artificial flavors and in-

tion to the menu in the future. Devotion

gredients, they are the only producer in

to hand-crafted products even inspired

the world to distill liquors and rums di-

the team to build their own chocolate

rectly from Dominican cacao beans. The

making machines!

mixture is then infused with additional

beans for extra flavor before being aged in

of ideas, traditions, dreams and tech-

charred oak barrels.

nology.” They are designing their own

And the vision doesn’t end with

rules, continually defying expectations

liqueurs, bourbon and chocolate. They

while churning out superior products. A

have successfully introduced products

recipe of commitment, creativity and

like Fountain of Youth Facial Soap, with

craftsmanship, sprinkled with a dash

the possibility of adding cigars and SPF lo-

of fun, accelerates Cacao Prieto’s rise as

Cacao Prieto is a “meeting place

a leader

in the COMMUNITY

of craft culture.

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 57



ARY

T

PHO

Y

HY B

AP OGR

NC BRIA


W

DRIV E THR OUGH R OA D HEN THE W S OF YO U INDIN UMA ABOU T G FAR ILLA, T FIF M A T S Y MI N O RT M A LL TO LE H OF WN ORLA S N D O,

S IS RE CEN M

THE

THE

E R Y ENT

COUN OF T R Y ROAD KENT S U CK T

OF OR

INISC

ENNE

Y SSEE ,

AN A PPRO PRIA BECA TE C USE OMP WE A ARIS RE N ON OW I N FL O RIDA ’S

WH I S

KEY

CO U N

TRY.


As we approach the farm of Palm Ridge Reserve Distillery,

the bureaucratic legal system to obtain the necessary permits,

turning up the dirt and gravel driveway lined with oak

and in January 2009 Palm Ridge Reserve, the first Florida whis-

trees, we spot a lone palm tree on the right, the name

key distillery, was born. The whole operation yields about 500

sake of this craft whiskey distillery. The driveway continues into

cases per year and is done from start to finish by Marti and Dick

the center of the 80 acre former orange grove turned cattle ranch

with no machinery and no hired help; the couple runs it all, from

slash distillery, where standing in front of a converted 10 stall

mash to labels and everything in between. It starts with Marti,

horse barn is Dick Waters and one of the many farm dogs to greet

who hand measures the mash, using Florida corn from a local

us. After introducing himself and his companion, he leads us in-

grower and cold weather grains grown in the mid-west; a mix of

side toward his still. The 8 foot copper still sits below a large win-

barley malt, rye malt and flaked rye.

dow in a single stall that is lined with small whiskey barrels; this

is where the artisan magic happens.

ing practically no solid waste behind, in fact the grains that re-

The Palm Ridge Distillery is as “green” as it comes, leav-

Originating from Orlando, the husband and wife of Marti

main from the fermented mash later become the cattle feed. The

and Dick Waters invested in the Palm Ridge Farm in 1984 as a

separated liquid “whiskey wash” is transplanted to the 60 gallon

way to foster the growth of their youngest daughter’s interest in

copper still where Dick spends about 10-11 hours a day distill-

horseback riding. With both daughters grown, Marti and Dick

ing, yielding approximately 5 gallons a day, 6 days a week. The

were left to devise a plan for the land all their own. Both contin-

un-oaked whiskey affectionately called “white dog” is pulled from

ued with day jobs while maintaining the now cattle ranch, when a

the still and sampled by Dick to inspect the quality of the final

stroke of inspiration struck in 2008. Marti had discovered a news

product. “I’m picky…I can’t put shit into a barrel,” Dick says, as

story about Midwest farmers creating distilleries and producing

he continues to educate me on the significance of the quality of

spirits as a way to supplement their income. With Dick’s love of

the product that goes into the barrel, and how it can greatly affect

whiskey and the desire to move closer to the farm, it seemed only

the final outcome.

natural that the couple would fall into this endeavor.

the proper way of tasting whiskey: “Take a small sip on the tip of

The following 8 months were spent maneuvering through

Allowing me to taste the “white dog,” Dick coaches me in

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 61




PAGE 64 | MicroShiner.com



HE

REFU

MAKE SES OR ANYT SELL H I N THAT HEH G IWMSE OULD LF N’T DRIN K TO



your tongue and press it against the front teeth. Let it slide back

product at 8 months, the whiskey had a smoky aroma, notes of

over the top of your tongue, without mouth washing it.” He con-

vanilla, and citrus similar to that of a single malt. Marti adds that

tinues to explain that this is the best way to allow the flavors to

as a nod to their home state; they have incorporated orange chips

wash over the taste buds as this is not a shooting whiskey.

into the distilling process, bringing that citrus flavor that is so

commonly associated with whiskey and Florida to the forefront.

There is a common misconception about the aging pro-

cess that with age comes the smooth taste found in finished whis-

key; while the aging process is important for the final product,

labeled by Marti to complete the labor intensive process. But that

creating the color and intensity of the flavors, it is not solely re-

is hardly the end of the Waters’ involvement in craft distilling. With

sponsible for the quality of taste. I am here to say that the warm,

the surge in the craft distilling craze, and the movement to “Keep it

fresh-off-the-still “white dog” whiskey is a complement of clean

Local,” the Waters decided to get involved in the American Distill-

flavors and sweet citrus. So, why don’t we just drink it straight

ing Guild. The Guild is a group of 15 Florida distilleries that work

from the still? Why bother with the labor intensive and expensive

together to increase the awareness of this artisan liquor move-

procedure of aging? Dick enlightens me that putting a clean qual-

ment, and have helped set in motion Florida House Bill 347 that

ity whiskey through the oak aging process allows for the alcohol to

was signed into effect July 1, 2013. This bill essentially allows

mellow, creating a more robust rich flavor, with the deep caramel

Florida distilleries to sell up to 2 bottles for personal use when giv-

coloring that is the hallmark of a quality whiskey.

ing a tour, an effort by the guild to foster craft distillery growth.

Dick leads me to one of the neighboring horse stalls that

Finally, the finished product is then bottled and hand

In fact, Representative Alan Hays, one of the supporters

once again is lined with small whiskey barrels; each barrel holds

and key players in the development of Bill 347, stopped by to take

up to 24 bottles, a total of 5 gallons of the finished product. When

some of his staffers through the tour of this distilling process.

asked why he uses the smaller barrels when most mainstream

“They call this Umatilla Gold up in Tallahassee,” Hays beams as

distilleries use the large 53 gallon barrels, Dick explains that al-

he walks into the barn, shaking Dick’s hand. Representative Hays

though the smaller barrels lead to an increase of evaporation of

is a regular visitor here at the Palm Ridge Distillery, being a local

the final product, somewhere around 20%, the remaining prod-

Umatillian and a whiskey fan himself.

uct has a more intense flavor profile. And he clarifies that he re-

fuses to make or sell anything that he himself wouldn’t drink,

Dick responds that they are looking to progress into white whiskey

something his loyal customers, a demographic 25 to 50 years

within the next couple of years. But until then, the unique charac-

old, appreciate.

When we began sampling the whiskey, progressing

When asked what is next for this local boutique distillery,

ter of Palm Ridge Reserve and their bourbon-style whiskey can be found all over Florida.

through the aging process at intervals of 3 months and 6 months, the small sips, each unique in their own right, had a noted mat-

For a full listing, and more information regarding sales and tours,

uration of their rich complex flavors. Upon sampling the final

visit their website: http://www.palmridgereserve.com.

PAGE 68 | MicroShiner.com



PAGE 70 | MicroShiner.com



American Distilling Institute Hands-On Workshops Annual Conference & Expo Craft Spirits Certification Program Judging of Artisan American Spirits

for information about craft distilling go to

distilling.com


Photo by David Lyman ÂŤ MicroShiner.com | PAGE 73


PAGE 74 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Vincent Buckley


Missoula, Montana www.HurrocaneClothing.com


THE ELLENSBURG DISTILLERY

The Ellensburg Distillery 1000 North Prospect St. Suite 3, Ellensburg, WA 98926 (509) 925-1295 | http://www.TheEllensburgDistillery.com


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