MicroShiner Inspiring a World of Craft Spirits
Winter 2015
SPIRIT OF THE M O U N TA I N
WINTER 2015
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contents Letter From the Publisher Drinking Music Spirit Review—Crater Lake Pepper Vodka Places to Enjoy—The Rose, Jackson Hole, WY Crafting Cocktails—Adam Dickerson 10th Mountain Whiskey & Spirit Co. - Vail, CO Loggerhead Deco - Chicago, IL Exploring Vermont’s Craft Spirit Pairings—Caledonia Spirits Winter Gear Round Up Tahoe Moonshine - South Lake Tahoe Cocktails - High Altitude Apres
winter
2015
9 10 14 16 18 24 48 69 78 92 94 117
Photo by David Turner « MicroShiner.com | PAGE 5
Publisher Editor at Large Music Director Staff Contributor Webmaster Marketing & Events Social Media
Cobey Williamson David Schreib Jeffrey Mattson Brian Cary Kelsey Binder Ryan Murphy Chi Pham
Contributing Design
Madison Angus
Contributing Writers
Alex H. Dowley John Stephenson Karen Clayton Ian Gregory Drew de la Rosa Matthew Hedgpeth Rob Durkee Tim Wenger
Contributing Photographers
John Stephenson Andy Shelter Giselle Hellemn Janie Viehman David Turner Jeremy Jensen Alex H. Dowley Working Dog Enterprises, LLC 1406 Summerdale Rd Corvallis, MT 59828
Š2014 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine cannot be duplicated without the prior written consent of the owner. The views contained within the contents of MicroShiner Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of its owners or staff.
Photo by Jeremy Jensen ÂŤ MicroShiner.com | PAGE 7
Letter from the Pub
PAGE 8 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Janie Viehman
Letter from
the PUBLISHER In the tradition of the Salish band of native Americans, winter is the time for storytelling. The creation story of their tribe can only be told during the winter, and in days of yore the long northern night was spent gathered around the tepee fire, listening to elders relate tales that are the living history of the Salish people, a mythology that serves to connect the tribe to its future as much as its past.
It seems appropriate then that with this Winter issue we tell you of another story being told. While technically not a myth, it certainly contains elements synonymous with one: fabrication, allegory, and nectars of the divine. And like a myth, whether or not to accept it as true is entirely up to you. There is a lot of differing opinion on what makes a spirit craft. Some tout terms like “grain to glass”, where producers turn raw ingredients into drinkable spirit all under one roof. Others focus entirely on the palette, taking neutral grain spirits sourced from industrial scale manufacturers and transforming them into exquisitely formulated works of liquid art. Both have their merit. It’s when their story gets told that the trouble begins. A phrase currently buzzing around is “crafty, not craft,” as it takes little more than a tote full of sourced whiskey and some clever marketing to create a successful craft label. Much of the talk about craft spirits, and even a few lawsuits, seems to revolve around this very fact. Fingers are being pointed, most of them at the producers. People heard a good story and they bought it. But in some cases, the story wasn’t quite true. Now where there has been outright deception, we take a hard line. Bottles must be labeled according to the law, which requires that the location of actual distillation be disclosed. But we bristle at the notion that the onus lies only with producers. How many of the offended, we ask, ever bothered to confirm where their favorite craft whiskey was being made?
Craft culture is founded on two tenets: authenticity and responsibility. At the heart of this matter, that is what we are discussing, and both have been compromised. The craft spirit enthusiast expects that what they are buying is not just repurposed Beam in a fancy bottle, but ultimately they can hold only themselves accountable for ensuring that it’s true.
It is the consumer’s responsibility to determine what their definition of value is, and to seek out and support those producers, and only those, who share a similar set of values in their product. Some of these spirits taste great; perhaps that is what you value. Some are made with a concern for developing local capacity; some are made with a consideration for terroir. Each individual label has been created around a certain set of values, but it is up to the individual consumer to evaluate them based upon their own. My personal ideal incorporates elements of all these things, and I am fortunate that my local micro-distiller, Montgomery Distillery, shares my view. But if I go somewhere else, I don’t want Ryan’s gin; I want something local, and it is up to me to ask for it. Even then, I have to educate myself so I can be certain my choices align with my values. I can’t expect producers to do this for me, and neither can you. In this issue, you will find craft spirits that were made using NGS or sourced whiskey. TINCUP, for example, is a sourced whiskey, cut and bottled in Colorado. Jeff at Tahoe Moonshine uses a small amount of NGS in some of his products. Ron and Jeremy Elliot use neutral grain spirits as the basis for their award winning products at Smuggler’s Notch. Does this mean they’re not craft spirits? I don’t think so, but then again, I’m not you. And that opportunity for personal determination is the point, and the beauty, of enjoying craft spirits. Cobey Williamson Publisher
DRINKING MUSIC
By Jeffrey Mattson
Drinking Music Mississippi | Las Cruces | Los Angeles | Brooklyn Music and spirits are inextricably intertwined. Whether it’s the rat pack & martinis, the jazz age and bathtub gin, saloon whiskey and a player piano, or just pickin’ on the porch with a jar of shine, where you find one, you will likely find the other. So many analogies exist between the two that we felt, as a magazine about craft and spirits, inclined – nay almost obliged – to dedicate some space to music.
product, often for no greater purpose than sheer enjoyment. Just as it is in the spirits business, the music market is awash with corporate product. Artists are groomed and selected based on one thing: their ability to sell records. All of the coarseness and irregularity is eliminated, and much of the nuance and the intangible lost. To paraphrase Neil Young at the onset of the digital age, the real music lives between the 0 and 1.
Music is a craft. Doing it well depends on bringing a number of
In that regard, and in keeping with the theme of this pub-
elements together in just the right proportions, and like craft
lication, what we hope to offer you here is that space
spirits the resultant product is always greater than the sum
between the step and the curve that is so important, yet
of its parts. Differences in equipment, training, ingredients,
often goes overlooked. Here we hope to share some bands
recipes are reflected in subtle, and sometimes not so subtle,
and music that you might just find playing onstage in your
variations in character, flavor, tenor, and tone. Each begins
local tasting room or watering hole. Here, as with the micro-
with a handful of raw material that, through a practiced and
distilleries we focus on, you just might happen upon some-
perfected process, culminates in a refined and handcrafted
one you know, and together enjoy a little drinking music.
Bass Drum of Death Rip This
DIY garage rock from Oxford, Mississippi with classic punk resolve. John Barrett and late-comer Len Clark. It’s time to get down to brass tacks. Recalling
early
American
negligently electric. “If the
py and it’s searing through
punk like The Ramones and
taste makes you ill, don’t
an old boombox. Crank up
The Misfits but with a little
mind me or my pills”. Junky
the punch and drive a little
more temper. Denim jackets,
patterned couch, the stale
faster. If you’re feeling that
raunchy
cigarettes,
smell of boot sweat and wet
spanning itch of some tem-
cheap beer and a self evident
ski gear, muted static on the
pered
ethos. It’s vigilantly hasty,
tv, I’m feeling crunch hap-
your mother superior baby.
guitar,
PAGE 10 | MicroShiner.com
punk,
then
they’re
Winter 2015
The Low Culture
Screens
Dirty 4-piece from Las Cruces, New Mexico and signed to Dirtnap Records. Chris, Sam, Cade and Joe. They play instruments. “I’m tired of waiting, so I’m
a riot. Beyond this, my lar -
not
rock,
ynx couldn’t help but sting,
garage. This is what you’d
but I was sweaty, exhausted,
waiting”.
Punk
expect, glorious drum fills,
and reclaimed. Maniacal and
exasperated
yet
furious
vicious, persistent and racing
guitars.
Straight
forward,
rhythm section, no superflu-
stripped
down,
filled
with
ous riffing. To quote the song
resentment, filled with sen-
“California”,
timent. These zealous dudes
getting f***ed up in Califor -
ain’t here for you. Paint’s
nia drinking whiskey on the
still
1989
beach”, you heard em, grab
Toyota, a couple bucks in my
some whiskey and quit watch-
pocket, haven’t showered in
ing tv, it’s time to ramp your
days, but we’re gonna cause
heart with some distortion.
peeling
on
the
“tonight
I’m
Big Ups
Eighteen Hours of Static Brooklyn, New York. Joe Galarraga, Amar Lal, Carlos Salguero Jr. and Brendan Finn. Part punk, part post-hardcore, whatever. They’re
a
melodic
lulls,
good
equally
rabidly
and
fraction
city, the sun’s gone down,
they’re
and we’re all faceless, point-
energized,
less,
they’ve
had
enough,
they sound exhausted man.
breaking rank and flaunt-
Shrill anthems. Existential
ing feedback and distortion.
crises abound. Punk sans
The personal psychosis one
the politically charged emo-
undergoes
tions,
and
from
modern
punk
watching
Black
drawing
Friday unfold as you grapple
disillusion-
for a reason why. “I think it’s
ment. “I think what I’m try-
fine, it doesn’t really bother
ing to say is, I don’t wanna
me” they quip sarcastical-
live a life like this”. Scents of
ly. Quick and to the point
Fugazi and Saetia. A glazed
with
unthinkable
rapture.
Photos by Micke Keysendal
DRINKING MUSIC
The Far West
Any Day Now
Los Angeles based. Lee Briante, Robert Black, Aaron Bakker, Brian Bachman and Michael Whiteside. Where are we going? Traveling partners for the exquisitely rash. Alt-folk rock americana. With hints of Dylan, Cash,
whiskey in our hands and the
and The Band we’re riding
subtle drawl in our hearts.
that exploratory spirit. Modern takes on all. Gospel organ. “Everyone’s chasing a ghost…..everyone’s the next James Dean”. I’m in Oklahoma during the prohibition and I’ve stumbled upon some sweet dark drink after months of sobriety and wandering introspective thoughts. Desperate tumbleweeds nip at my city slicker boots. I’m a poor man’s angst. These guys are the best parts of an adventurous America. Smoke filled bar, good friends, player piano, we ain’t got a worry but for the
Rose’s Pawn Shop Gravity Well
Straight outta the wild wild west, good old Los Angeles, southern California. Paul Givant, Tim Weed, John Kraus, Stephen Andrews and Christian Hogan. Apparently named after the
jos and a rhythm section that
see your face in these dead end
lead
ex-girlfriend
draws the distinctly folk blue
streets”. Indeed indeed. Hand
who stole all the band’s gear
grass instrumentation in the
me the moonshine darling,
and sold it at varying and as-
alt-rock direction. “Every day I
tonight we dance as ghosts.
singer’s
sorted pawn shops. It is with that sentimentality in mind, should we embrace the density of this band. Parts folk, parts blue grass, parts altrock. Upbeat, vivacious, filled with fervor. One must ardently dance with so lush a trouble on your soul. The themes have us clutching our hearts, the music has us dancing in the night. It’s the perfect reciprocation following redemption. Acoustic guitar plucks, rambling fiddles, babbling ban-
Winter 2015
For those who prefer not having some guys in a boardroom determine how their skis should fit.
Create your perfect skis at wagnerskis.com/getfitted. CUSTOM-FIT AND PRECISION-CRAFTED IN PLACERVILLE, COLORADO, USA.
SPIRIT REVIEW
Words by Ian Gregory / Photos by Giselle Hellemn
Winter Warmer: Crater Lake Pepper Vodka - Bendistillery, OR Located along the periphery of the Willamette National Forest, Bend, Oregon is home to Bendistillery and its slew of award-winning Crater Lake brand Spirits. Drawing inspiration from the natural volcanic activity of the nearby Cascade mountain range, the craft distillery filters their vodka repeatedly through crushed lava rock, producing a smooth spirit with a decidedly clean finish. A more exotic offering from
in on a crisp, Cascade morn-
the stills at Bend is their bold
ing, only to rouse yourself for
Handcrafted American Pepper
another day on the slopes by
Vodka, an 80 proof formula-
knocking back a Bloody or
tion that infuses their origi-
two containing a healthy pour
nal recipe with the heat and
of Crater Lake’s spicy spirit.
flavor of no less than five different strains of potent pep-
Outside of the tasty, tomato
per. The result of this process
juice libation and left to stand
sees the pure, mountain-wa-
on
ter qualities of Crater Lake’s
pepper-packed vodka tends
standard overtaken by the
to bring more heat than most
aggressive addition of spice,
people can handle, even if you
creating a taste profile which
should find yourself within
is more reminiscent of the
the snowy confines of the
liquid magma found flowing
Pacific Northwest. Served neat
beneath
or chilled, the straight liquor
Willamette
Valley.
its
own,
however,
this
offers an interesting experiBilled as the “perfect spirit”
ence for the nose. While there
for a Bloody Mary, Bendis-
is definitely the distinct aroma
tillery’s fiery infusion does
of a high quality grain distil-
work well amidst the other
lation, the more pronounced
bold ingredients of the classic
impression is the warmth of
brunch cocktail. Regardless
pepper, which engulfs the si-
of the complexity of the reci-
nuses like the spicy wisps
pe, the heat and finish of the
of steam wafting up from a
Pepper Vodka is never lost in
jalapeño-laced
the shuffle, holding its own no
unmistakable scent is just a
matter what inventive accou-
prelude to the real heat lin-
trement may be added to the
gering within the sienna hued
glass. This tenacious quality
vodka. At first sip, the spirit
has surely played a signifi-
is smooth in texture but jar-
cant part in Bend’s product
ring in taste. Though there
becoming the favored founda-
is a hint of garden freshness
tion of local mixologists craft-
in the background, the brief
ing their own unique concoc-
bright notes are soon out-
tions for the ski town clientele
matched by a heavy spice,
of Mt. Bachelor. It is certainly
not unlike the sensation one
not hard to imagine sleeping
would achieve by biting into
PAGE 14 | MicroShiner.com
pizza.
This
Winter 2015
a raw pepper. On the finish,
Pepper
the silkiness of the liquor
enough punch to stand its
Vodka
does
pack
leads to a rapid coating of the
ground when incorporated
mouth and throat in a way
into the increasingly elabo-
that gives new meaning to the
rate mixes of today’s Bloody
term “firewater”. The linger-
Mary. The natural infusion
ing flavor is not quick to leave
of spice into the lava rock-
the tongue, so even a slow-
filtered liquor also eliminates
sipping pace would only suit
the need to add hot sauce,
those who enjoy a particularly
which can sometimes taint a
spicy palate. The truly adven-
cocktail with oil and preser-
turous may even dare to at-
vatives. Though its fiery flavor
tempt a shooter, but the only
is certainly not for everyone,
reward for an act so bold is
don’t be surprised to see this
an instant case of heartburn.
Bendistillery spirit catching on as the go-to for Bloodys
Despite
its
nearly
over-
being poured well beyond
whelming heat, Crater Lake’s
the slopes of Mt. Bachelor.
One of a kind Barrels.
You personalize the rest.
Perfect for your brands, promotions, packaged products and more www.1000oaksbarrel.com 703.885.1483
PLACES TO ENJOY
By John Stephenson
Cathouse Cocktails: The Rose, Jackson, WY The earthy aroma and distinct warming of refined whiskey, served in seductive high-back red leather booths under the bawdy glow of crystal chandeliers... a setting reminiscent of when the likes of Jim Bridger, Jedediah Smith, and David Jackson walked the snow-strewn streets. And yet, a bordello-inspired
success of this sexy saloon is
gin mill seems well suited to
an emphasis on mixed drinks
this traditional cowboy town,
prepared from fresh ingredi-
where the biggest landmarks
ents and quality craft spirits.
are named for breasts - “Les
The staff of skilled mixologists
Trois Tetons”.
exhibit exacting standards in their execution, and continue
The Rose is the first and only
to seduce and amaze even the
classically
cock-
regular customers with inno-
tail lounge in Jackson Hole.
vative punches and specialty
Opened just three years ago,
cocktails.
in
inspired
collaboration
York’s
renowned
with
New &
After a day in the powder,
Company, their loyal clien-
Death
nothing warms the body and
tele includes both locals and
arouses the soul like a whis-
returning visitors. Key to the
key-inspired
PAGE 16 | MicroShiner.com
libation,
and
Winter 2015
in this mountain town the
stairs and sharing a lobby
wizards at the Rose are the
with the hip and happen-
indisputable masters. Along-
ing Pink Garter Theater, The
side such popular cocktails
Rose is a snowballs’ throw
as the Spy Hunter (Conne-
from the famed antler-arched
mara Irish whiskey, Yellow
town square of Jackson. And
Chartreuse, lime, mint, Berg
whether it’s enjoying a cock-
& Hauck’s celery bitters) and
tail prior to catching the hot-
the Shady Business (Ritten-
test band at the Pink Garter,
house 100 rye, Fernet-Bran-
or a nightcap after a long day
ca, maple, lemon, mint), new
on the mountain, The Rose is
mixes are concocted daily.
a provocatively pleasant de-
The Sour Puss, Hell’s Half-
parture from the more tour-
Acre and the William Munny,
isty taverns in this world-
recently represented the Rose
class ski town.
at
Whiskey-
time you visit “The Hole” slide
the
Wyoming
sponsored
2014
So the next
Bartender
into one of its warm booths,
Shootout State Championship
pick your poison, then set
in Laramie.
back and prepare to smell, sip and savor an expertly crafted
Tucked away up a set of
cathouse cocktail.
CRAFTING COCKTAILS Spirits Ambassador Adam Dickerson shares a new take on winter cocktails
Winter 2015
CRAFTING
COCKTAILS When
it
comes
to
Adam Dickerson
winter,
traditional thinking in regards
Spirits Ambassador New Holland Artisan Spirits New Holland, Michigan
to cocktails goes something like this. They have to be: Sweet. Need a candy cane garnish. Are a Pumpkin Spiced Latte-Tini. Need to be served
Lilly C.K. 2 1/2 oz Knickerbocker Gin 1/2 oz Clockwork Orange 3/4 oz Lillet 5 Dashes of Orange Bitters
warm. Egg Nog is the only option. Right? Stir all ingredients with ice in a mixing Wrong.
glass, strain into a martini glass. Zest a
Recently west
Adam
Spirits
Dickerson,
Ambassador
at
Shake all ingredients with ice and dou-
lemon peel over the glass, rim the glass
Mid-
ble strain into a highball glass with
with the peel and use as garnish.
New
ice. Top with club soda and garnish with
Holland Artisan Spirits, dispelled some
rosemary sprig and cinnamon stick.
of the myths associated with winter
Recently, I have found myself quite enthused with the intricacies of a dry mar-
libations while sharing a number of
You don’t need a pumpkin pie in a glass
tini. I am constantly tweaking ratios un-
cold weather cocktails that serve well to
to call it an autumn drink. This cocktail
til I find the perfect recipe for my palette
remind us the only thing you really need
incorporates some seasonal spices that
or the palette of my guests. I have made
to create a great winter cocktail are good
we associate with fall and winter while
it my personal mission to prove to my
spirits and a little imagination.
remaining refreshingly tart. The rye and
friends that they actually do enjoy gin
lemon juice shine while the maple syrup,
and a proper martini, they just needed to
apple bitters and ginger liqueur provide a
discover it first. This recipe is a twist on
warming balance. At New Holland, we are
what some would consider a dry martini.
unapologetic in saying that we confidently
Opting for Lillet in the place of Dry Ver-
drink gin, year round. That same principle
mouth provides nice citrus notes and the
2 oz New Holland Walleye Rye
applies here. If you enjoy a tall, refreshing,
splash of New Holland’s Clockwork Or-
1/2 oz Grade A Maple Syrup
effervescent cocktail during warm months,
ange Liqueur further fortifies that pres-
1/2 oz Lemon Juice
you should feel just as confident drink-
ence. The balance of citrus, spices and
1/4 oz Domaine de Canton
ing that in front of a warm fire with snow
herbs in Knickerbocker Gin are perfect
Pinch of nutmeg
falling outside your windows. With the
for this drink.
Rosemary leaves
right balance and a delicate use of sea-
All spice
sonal spice, your winter cocktail just got
All together, I think this drink can be a
2 cloves
surprisingly refreshing.
nice starting point on one’s journey to-
~
Pinchfist
4 dashes Bar Keep Apple Bitters
ward the enjoyment of the dry martini.
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 19
CRAFTING COCKTAILS
The Ice Cap 2 oz New Holland Cask & Smoke 1 oz Ruby Port 1 Large Cold Brew Coffee Iced Cube Stir Whiskey and Port in ice and strain into a chilled rocks glass with Coffee Ice Cube Simplicity is underrated. Some of the most delicious cocktails in the world involve two or three ingredients, and that is what I tried to capture here. When making this drink, I envisioned it being served after a meal, with a warm, chocolaty dessert but by no means does it need to be limited to that. Cask & Smoke is a peated whiskey and it finds such a nice balance with the sweetness of Port. When poured over a coffee ice cube, the drink only improves with time, adding a velvety mouth-feel and a peppy boost of caffeine to counter what would have been one intense food coma.
Winter 2015
CRAFTING
COCKTAILS
Adam Dickerson
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 21
MicroShiner Journal of the #ModernScofflaw —Subscribe Now! www.MicroShiner.com
The perfect powder ski.
Handmade Skis & Snowboards | Jackson, Wyoming | www.igneousskis.com
The Story of the 10th Mountain Whiskey & Spirits Company
Words by Matthew Hedgpeth
Photography by Janie Viehman
I-70
is
whiteout.
Dozens of cars inch along through unpacked winter, leads
slush.
this to
At
times
serpentine
renowned
during
road
Rocky
that
Moun-
tain powder is near snowbound; it is the price one must be prepared to pay should he wish to partake in some of the country’s finest skiing. Yet it is a Saturday evening in midNovember
and
Vail,
the
resort
named after the engineer of the road that became the interstate, is still another week away from opening.
PAGE 28 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
Off the highway, blanketed in snow and
tainside, one bettered by the flow of spirits.
illuminated
moun-
As is the case with many of history’s great
tain town-cum-ski resort of Vail Village
ventures, the seed of the 10th Mountain
is more or less asleep. A few groups of
distillery was planted late one fateful
young men, decked out in the particular
night. In a way spirits begat spirits as,
style of serious riders and skiers, trudge
cocktails in hand, Avignon and Thompson
along the whitened cobblestones. The
sat down looking for the answer to one
soft, muffled sound of clothed laugh-
question: what does Vail need? Recalling
ter drifts from the mouths of couples
the circumstance, Avignon said, “We felt
wrapped in vests and caps as they head
[The Vail Valley] seemed stagnant in terms
toward the bars. More than mere signs
of its business demographic. Not to take
of life, these are microcosmic reminders
away from anybody, it just hasn’t really
that winter is approaching in the valley.
evolved” [in the same way that Denver,
by
lamplight,
the
with its distinct neighborhoods and wealth Tasting
of new businesses, for example, has]. “And
Room, which officially opened in Septem-
we don’t have that quantity of people here,
ber 2014, is poised to be a vital part of this
but we certainly have interesting people
setting. Nestled in the southeast corner of
from all over the world, so why can’t we do
the village, across the street from local
that? We thought, well, we love all these
outfitters Gorsuch Ltd., the space is small
spirits…maybe there’s a market for some-
and spare of unnecessary decoration. It is
thing really defined in the spirits world.”
The
10th
Mountain
Whiskey
the picture of the modern outdoorsman’s watering hole: wood flooring and shelving
Avignon and Thompson then conducted
buffed to a worn sheen, oak barrel tables
some preliminary research and attended
and stools, the obligatory Colorado flag.
Moonshine University in Louisville, Kentucky to learn more about the indus-
It is only right, then, that the owners,
try and make connections with some of
Christian Avignon and Ryan Thompson,
the powerhouse figures in the whiskey
both look like they belong here. They are
trade. This was the missing piece to the
self-assured, yet comfortably dressed––
puzzle of how to take their entrepre-
laid-back. Even though neither of them
neurial will (Avignon owns and runs a
are “natives” (Thompson is from Texas,
masonry business; Thompson is a res-
Avignon from upstate New York), they’ve
taurateur) to the next level and produce
known each other since the late 90’s
original liquor recipes for the people of Vail.
when they met, fittingly, on the slopes. Whether coaxed by the warmth of the
Finally, when time came to pick a name
tasting room or by the fact that it be-
for their company, Avignon and Thomp-
longs to them, their happiness is patent.
son were sure they wanted it to be some-
In their smiles and postures they wear
how related to the mountain culture that
the confidence of men in their element.
had brought them to Vail in the first place. They settled on a meaningful trib-
After speaking with them, it is clear that
ute, one that anyone who has ever felt a
the notion of feeling at home has had a
tug of affection for the winter lifestyle can
profound impact on their interests. The
appreciate––whether he knows it or not.
way they talk about their company––as of
~
a child with promise––is borne on the back
Twenty miles away from the Village lay
of a palpable philosophy, their sober vision
the remains of Camp Hale. It was here
of an almost utopian lifestyle on the moun-
that the inaugural soldiers of what would
PAGE 30 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
PAGE 34 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
become
Division,
on dissolving the German divisions that
the first specialized American military
the
10th
Mountain
were holding the fertile terrain of the
unit of its kind, went to commence long-
Po River Valley, gateway to the Alps.
term winter combat training in 1942. Said Avignon, “I actually returned in In The Last Ridge, McKay Jenkins de-
’91 with my grandparents and my dad.
scribes the long progression of events
We toured that area of central Italy and
that gave rise to America’s mountain
stayed in a lot of the hill town villages
troops and the designation of Camp Hale
that [the 10th] liberated. We were there
as their training base. Initially a sort of
for about four to five weeks. It was a
pet project promoted by Charles “Min-
real eye-opener as a teenager to be ex-
nie” Dole, the man who helped organize
posed to veterans like that first-hand.
the National Ski Patrol System, it took
My
some convincing to get the War Depart-
that whole time––all those guys [were].”
grandfather
was
very
emotional
ment to approve the new unit. Ultimately Dole got what he wanted and the National
If the veterans embraced a somber mood
Ski Patrol was the first civilian agency put
in order to reflect on their brothers-in-
in charge of recruiting American soldiers.
arms who never made it home, the trip was also a cause for celebration. Avignon
Over the ensuing months and years,
continued, “I think what that trip really
Camp Hale, positioned as it was in some
taught me...these guys were just hard-
of America’s most beautiful and forbid-
nosed, hard working…[but they also]
ding landscape, became a hotbed for com-
loved to drink. I mean, they drank more
bat-conscious technical mountaineering
grappa and wine on that trip to Italy than
and logistical preparation. The soldiers
I’ve ever seen. They would get their hikes
in the 10th were tasked with figuring out
in, they would get their work done, and
the best means of survival in low tempera-
then they would have some cocktails.
ture, high altitude environments; this re-
That’s how they lived,” said Avignon.
quired testing state-of-the-art equipment. Of their own accord, these men dutifully
It is perhaps this well-balanced work
explored the vast Coloradan wilderness
ethic and, in the words of Jenkins, “their
and meanwhile formed the crucial bonds
sense of a shared identity beyond that of
that help make bearable the trials of war.
soldiers” that set apart the original men of the 10th. And yet, by the time the Division
Thanks to Dole’s aggressive cherry pick-
had finally been deployed at the tail end
ing of talent from New England ski schools
of 1944, the war was in its last phase. Not
and colleges, a number of the growing Di-
surprisingly, the Allied success through-
vision’s ranks came from the Northeast.
out the rest of the European Theater over-
Fred Vetter, Avignon’s grandfather, was
shadowed the mountain troops’ relatively
familiar with some of the men who had
minor achievements (only in the scope of
joined up from the nearby Glens Falls area
the war––their tactical maneuvers on Riva
in upstate New York where he was raised.
Ridge in the Apennines were theretofore
Vetter enlisted as a medic and was part of
unprecedented, which is in part why the
the front line offensive that culminated in
mountain troops were so immediately
a series of key battles near the Apennines
successful in completing their objectives).
Mountains (southeast of Florence, Italy)
Plans for the 10th to initiate a full-scale
during the winter and spring of 1945.
invasion of mainland Japan were aban-
Italy’s ultimate fall to the Allies impinged
doned after the horrific revelation of
PAGE 38 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
atomic warfare in Hiroshima and Nagasa-
One of those veterans is former platoon
ki effectively put an end to war in the Pa-
sergeant, Sergeant First Class (retired)
cific. Thus, with the war coming to a close
Steven Lycopolus, who needed an ap-
and no battles left to fight, the men of the
propriate rocks glass for a toast he had
10th had to look forward to peacetime en-
to make for the 10-year reunion of his
deavors, and to building a better future.
platoon from the 2/87 Infantry Battalion. The 2/87, a dispatch of the 10th,
To more than a few this meant put-
comprises a group of men who deployed
ting their training to further use. Some
to Afghanistan in support of Operation
founded businesses with an emphasis
Enduring Freedom in August of 2003
on outdoor lifestyle---Nike and NOLS are
and returned in June of 2004. The group
two of them---while others, like Freidl
“eventually
Pfeifer, raised funds to introduce large-
ing First’ – a nickname that stuck and
scale recreational skiing to the American
endures to this day,” said Lycopolus.
became
known
as
‘Fight-
public. This, perhaps, is the true legacy of the 10th Mountain Division. In to-
Though he can only speak for this small
tal, 62 North American ski resorts were
band of brothers, Lycopolus is “honored
either founded, managed, or had their
that [Avignon and Thompson] used the
ski schools directed by members of the
division name.” He continued, “Veter-
10th. So, while the Division was able to
ans can be very protective of their former
secure its piece of militaristic notori-
units and lineage. We have a connection
ety at the end of the Second World War,
with them that is hard to describe to the
more lastingly, the men who comprised
uninitiated. Finding out that [Avignon’s]
its ranks would influence the shape of
grandfather was a member of the 10th
every North American winter to come.
Mountain Division in WWII dispelled any
~
concerns about crass commercialism –
While it is clear that the 10th Moun-
he and [Thompson] have done it right.”
tain Division deserves recognition, the fact that it is still an active military unit
The pair has therefore enjoyed multiple
(the Division was deactivated at the end
opportunities to do their part in honor-
of WWII, reformed for training purposes
ing the dedicated servicemen of the 10th
from 1948-1958, and then formally re-
Mountain Division, foisting bottles and
organized in 1985) thankfully never gave
gear, along with their appreciation, on the
Avignon or Thompson much pause. Rath-
handful of veterans that have reached out
er, the few living WWII veterans from the
to them. So while the mountain troops
10th that Avignon and Thompson have
have provided Avignon and Thompson
been able to contact directly––or tangen-
with a name upon which they will be
tially, through their products-––have wel-
building a brand, it is ultimately a two-
comed the namesake tribute. The pair
way street. Thompson also noted that
has also received positive support from
some portion of their revenue would be
the Division’s current soldiers and vet-
used to support active duty troops and
erans. Many of these active or recently
veterans: in-kind donations to the 10th
decommissioned soldiers discovered the
Foundation, Vail Veterans Program, and
distillery by accident, stumbling upon the
Wounded Warrior Project are ongoing.
Kickstarter campaign that provided the
Currently the 10th Mountain Whiskey &
last big push in realizing the duo’s dream.
Spirit Company’s lineup consists of their
PAGE 40 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
^ ABOVE Christian Avignon & Ryan Thompson stand beside their Vendome copper still at the 10th Mountain production facility in Gypsum, CO
flagship Bourbon ($57.99), Rye Whis-
philosophy: Mountain Strong. Similar to
key ($44.99), Moonshine ($24.99), Vod-
the Rye, the side of the bottle also in-
ka ($33.99), and the Alpenglow Cordial
cludes a toast, 10th Mountain Bourbon
($39.99). Avignon and Thompson are also
embodies the same characteristics of the
invested in expanding the flavor profiles
10th Mountain soldiers: confident yet
of these spirits by creating barrel-aged
humble, adventurous yet grounded, bold
cocktails. Their first foray into this grow-
yet modest. To the soldiers and all that
ing practice is the Seibert Sipper (after
enjoy the mountain lifestyle, we salute!
Pete Seibert, Vail Resort’s founder and
another veteran from the 10th Mountain
As of this writing, Avignon and Thomp-
Division). The cocktail pairs the bour-
son have introduced their product to 10
bon with sweet vermouth and Aperol,
liquor stores and over 20 restaurants
an Italian aperitif, resulting in a light
throughout the state. They are also mov-
and
ing forward with the construction of a
dangerously
smooth
concoction.
second, larger tasting area at the proThe pair agrees that clever branding like
duction facility in Gypsum, which was
this is meant, in large part, to capture the
meant to open concurrently with the
essence of mountain culture, the everlast-
Tasting Room until they decided the ex-
ing ethos of the 10th. Committed as they
posure at Vail Village was more impor-
are to the Division, Avignon and Thomp-
tant. Hopefully the snowfall will be gen-
son have coined appropriate slogans for
erous and make for a busy ski season,
their different spirits. The Rye, for which
so they will have plenty of thirsty moun-
a close friend wrote a special toast, is a
taineers with whom they can share liba-
“Whiskey Worth Fighting For.” Both it
tions and regal with stories of their own.
and the Vodka bottle feature the silhouette of Riva Ridge, a battle that, accord-
How better to end a satisfying day on
ing to Jenkins, “like the mountain troops
the slopes––a stiff drink and good con-
themselves, accrued a mythical status.”
versation
does
the
mind
and
body
good. After all, a drink from the 10th As for the Bourbon, it is decorated with a
Mountain Whiskey and Spirits Com-
Ranger ribbon and boldly declares a de-
pany is more than a simple nightcap.
scriptor which Avignon and Thompson consider an expression of their overall
PAGE 42 | MicroShiner.com
It is a drink to glory.
Winter 2015
MicroShiner
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Thinking Outside t h e B ott l e The Green World of Loggerhead Deco
Words by rob durkee
Photography by David turner
Tucked away within a quiet industrial
pany, Gilbertson realized something that
park in suburban Illinois, a silent giant
spoke to him above all of the other buzz
of elegance and design flourishes: enter
surrounding the world-class spirits he
the bottle decorating wonderland of Log-
worked with: decorating the bottles they
gerhead Deco.
The company headquar-
came in was not a sustainable practice.
ters, adorned with countless awards and
He set out several years ago to correct
examples of its artistic prowess, houses
this, and has since experienced a rapid
both its production warehouse and its
rise to the top of the industry.
business operations. At the helm resides
asked to break down the mythos behind
Steve Gilbertson, a man who carries him-
his company, he sits back and exhales.
When
self with a distinct air of friendliness, and sports a goatee that defines a man who
“It’s a long answer,” he replies succinctly.
knows exactly where his vision is heading. The vision of Loggerhead is to provide proHe is surprisingly calm and collected,
ducers of craft beverages with a distinct
despite working seven days a week to
visual edge that will allow their products
prepare for the looming holiday season,
to compete with major brands on store
and the lines at the corners of his eyes
shelves.
betray how frequently he smiles.
refining an organic, sustainable approach
welcome sight.
It’s a
As the former CEO and
salesman of Kammann Machine Com-
PAGE 48 | MicroShiner.com
Beyond that, it is to continue
to decorating glass bottles.
Founded
in 2010 with a single printing press,
Loggerhead
world-class
very similar to top brands; the edge Log-
designs for customers in all fifty states,
manufactures
gerhead has here, however, is that it will
as well as eleven countries, and has
produce specialty bottles at much lower
since expanded to ten presses.
The fo-
quantities than the bigger brands, mak-
cus is primarily on craft spirits, but its
ing it a more attractive option in terms
product base includes several wines, ol-
of pricing.
ive oils, and vinegars, among various
are sent out, which may yield changes to
other bottled goods.
Proofs of the final artwork
It is a counterpart
bottle design, and a final, physical proof
to a booming “craft culture”; more and
is then delivered for customers to begin
more, people lean towards independent
planning with.
craft beverages, and Loggerhead’s bot-
of necessary materials, and securing gov-
tles and designs are a masterful depic-
ernment approval, this stage of the pro-
tion of craft all their own. It starts with
cess can take anywhere from a month
the company’s approach to its process.
to several years.
Including the gathering
When all the pieces
are finally in place, production begins. The process begins with a phone call, email, or the time-honored tradition of
Loggerhead is very transparent with ev-
word-of-mouth.
Most of Loggerhead’s
erything it does. Its aim is to be as “green”
customers have some idea of what they
as possible in all facets of production,
want, but they simply don’t know what is
from digital correspondence, to the cur-
possible to get them there. Design ideas
ing of inks with UV light, right down to
start with the spirit itself; whiskey typical-
the electric forklift used in the warehouse.
ly comes in a bottle with different proper-
The fundamental idea behind printing di-
ties than vodka, and bourbon bottles won’t
rectly to glass is that it does away with
look much like rum. From there, further
paper labels that contain harmful carcin-
thought is put into what the bottle shape
ogens in their adhesives.
will be, resulting in a design’s parameters.
are lead-, cadmium-, and VOC (Volatile
The last step is to determine how it will
Organic Compound)-free, as well. Logger-
be packaged, and Loggerhead comes pre-
head found its footing in product testing
pared with a “one-stop shop” approach
with leading brands such as Coca-Cola,
that includes package design.
Modelo, and Bacardi, which went a long
When
All inks used
asked how these decisions are made, and
way in solidifying its effectiveness.
what sets Loggerhead apart from a tradi-
large budgets and angles of quality con-
tional decorator, Gilbertson nails his point
trol available were essential in establish-
of view to the wall: “It’s largely personal
ing a standard that would undeniably
preference, but it comes down to image. If
succeed in the younger craft market.
The
a customer sees a premium bottle on the shelf, it’s pretty safe to assume that what-
Glass bottles are first spray coated, de-
ever is inside will taste premium. We’re
signs are then printed on, and the inks
here to make sure that you don’t take
cured with UV lights. Utilizing his expe-
polka dots and put them on a Jaguar.”
rience gained at Kammann, Gilbertson has acquired key pieces of machinery
When a design has come to fruition, it
that not only reduce the amount of space
heads to art direction.
Loggerhead has
needed to accomplish the process, but
its own internal design firm that fully de-
also the company’s overall carbon foot-
velops ideas and fits them within the real
print. Ten printing presses, affectionate-
estate available on bottles.
Effects can
ly named after grandmothers within the
be added to give bottles a look and feel
business, bear the brunt of the workload.
PAGE 52 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
PAGE 54 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
A slumbering behemoth known as the
er in scale, sometimes to a point where
Kammann K15 CNC resides in the back of
Gilbertson is able to visit a customer for
Loggerhead’s warehouse; this $1.5 million
dinner or drinks at a local bar. As such,
machine is the “mother brain” of the op-
the emphasis is on clearly communicat-
eration, with six available colors and the
ing what is possible for any design, and
ability to print onto 4,500 bottles per hour.
maintaining that communication every
One of two byproducts generated by these
step of the way. To take the rapport even
machines is heat, which is cycled through
further, Loggerhead advises customers on
a chiller before being released outside at
government regulations, educating them
an environmentally conscious 70 degrees
about warnings while tastefully incorpo-
Fahrenheit. The other is ozone, which is
rating them into designs. When an idea
technically doing the planet a favor on a
is complete and comes to rest on store
daily basis. When printing and curing is
shelves, the destination of a consumer’s
complete, bottles are ready to be pack-
well-spent dime is evident in the artistry.
aged into custom-designed cartons and shipped to wherever they will be filled.
Gilbertson is working to strike a perfect balance between regional, national and
Gilbertson takes great pride in Logger-
international clients, all supported by
head’s process, not only from the produc-
the bedrock of possibility. “As the busi-
tion side of things, but from a storytell-
ness grows, it grows with the industry.
ing standpoint, as well. A critical aspect
We’re always adding capacities, adding
of craft spirits is the story behind each,
capabilities, and showing people what’s
and Loggerhead places this idea at the
possible with their product,” Gilbert-
forefront of everything it does. Gilbertson
son states.
grabs a bottle from a nearby display, and
presence and frequent website traffic,
reads. “Akvavit. Originally from northern
Loggerhead
Scandinavia, it’s all about the journey the
craft
barrels take.”
tomers
A humble origin, but it’s
With a strong social media is
scene, and
making and
waves
in
encourages
consumers
alike
the cus-
to
ex-
what he says next that rests at the heart
plore options and ask questions re-
of craft culture. “So, what makes craft so
lated
to
their
vision
and
process.
interesting? Well, this is the story. People sit around with this bottle, they read it,
Going forward, Gilbertson pushes the
and they talk about it. They read about
business to lead and innovate. He is very
ships carrying barrels across the equator.
aware that there are not many options
They talk about the journey, the captain.
available when looking to do what Logger-
They talk about the story.” Between the
head does, and he aims to set the bar ever
spirits within and the gorgeous designs
higher with each design. Keeping the com-
without, Loggerhead is paving the way for
pany’s operations sized right and allowing
craft companies, while making a point to
customers to buy smaller quantities has
help display what consumers are paying
been crucial in generating interest, as has
for when they purchase craft products.
a surge in consumption of craft beverages around the country. This has resulted in
As a family-oriented endeavor, managed
drastically reduced manufacturing and li-
by Gilbertson and wife Cindi, Loggerhead
quor license costs, which have prompted
takes the utmost pride in its personal flair
independent breweries and distilleries to
when working with customers and their
pop up in droves. They all seek bottles and
ideas.
Although it boasts a broad and
designs to capture their essence, and the
diverse roster, projects are usually small-
light leading their way is Loggerhead Deco.
PAGE 58 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
PAGE 62 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
PAGE 64 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
In 2015, Gilbertson intends to shift his focus to other markets, and has plans to expand design capabilities. He points to the wall behind him, at a “planogram”, or a visual merchandise organizer for Florida Wal-Marts. It prominently displays a customer’s bottle, nestled on a shelf between industry leaders Cîroc and Grey Goose. “Our logo and mission statement are on the back of that bottle.
Someone’s
going to pick it up, and they’re going to read it and find out what’s possible,” he says, filling in his smile lines. Loggerhead Deco can be found online at www.loggerheaddeco.com, on Facebook at Loggerhead Deco, Inc., and on Twitter at @loggerheaddeco
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Freedom & Unity: Exploring Vermont’s Craft Spirit Words and photographs by Alex H. Dowley
Vermont is full of crafts, and crafty peo-
In Vermont, a state that is shyly self-
ple. They are a source of pride and com-
righteous about its quality craft tradition,
munity, or vice versa. Either way, people
you’d expect this debate to be fiercely
in Vermont learn to make their own way,
contentious. Although passions are deep
and produce some world-class crafts in
and varied, the conversation is, in fact, re-
the process; Cabot Cheese, Citizen Cider,
freshingly polite.
Copeland Furniture, Simon Pierce glassware, Alchemist Brewery, and Darn Tough Vermont socks are just a few examples of
The plethora of organizations propping up
the state’s diverse craft manufacturers.
around the country in an attempt to stan-
There’s no surprise, then, that the craft
dardize craft jargon and practices only
spirit movement is alive and well in the
muddle the conversation. The American
Green Mountains, and growing. The num-
Craft Spirits Association limits it’s vot-
ber of licensed distillers in the state has
ing members to those producing less than
increased 500 percent in the last decade,
750,000 proof-barrels per year, while the
with similar growth-rates nationally. But
Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. re-
in this burgeoning market, with new dis-
quires fewer than 40,000 nine-liter cases
tillers and new methods of distilling enter-
per year to qualify for membership. Craft,
ing the business, it’s increasingly difficult
however, surely consists of more than
to distinguish what “craft” means.
sheer batch size. It connotes the image of
a master carpenter, and possibly an ap-
Templeton Rye, an Iowa-based whiskey
prentice, toiling in their labors over the
company that markets its “prohibition-
quality of their product. You don’t expect
era recipe,” currently faces three lawsuits
a carpenter to raise and fell the trees for
alleging it deceived customers by not in-
his work. In distilling, however, craft also
dicating on its label that it was sourced
infers the use of local and often organic
from a distilling plant in Indiana. The
ingredients, and an experimental nature
prohibition-era recipe, it turns out, isn’t
in some of the products. The American
actually a rye whiskey, either, so the dis-
Distilling Institute limits annual sales to
tiller added other flavors to mimic the
52,000 cases “where the product is physi-
original taste. Because the ingredients,
cally distilled and bottled on-site.”
engineered in Kentucky, are mixed in its facility in Templeton, Iowa, Templeton
The diverse—and in some cases, truly
defenders declare it a local product. The
unique—liquors the state of Vermont pro-
magic happens in Templeton, apparently.
duces challenge linguistic conventions of category and semantics. Elm Brook Farm,
Ron Elliot of Smuggler’s Notch Distillery,
for example, in East Fairfield, produces
another renowned producer in Vermont,
Rail Dog, a maple li-
agrees. It’s less ex-
quor
from
pensive than buying
100
percent
maple
all of the equipment
sap,
tapped
from
the
distilled
farm’s
maple
trees, then aged in a charred American Oak cask. It’s not quite
vodka,
whis-
key,
rum
or
gin,
and
definitely
not
THE COMMUNITY WILL CHANGE SIGNIFICANTLY FROM OUR PRESENCE
and storage space. “The distillation process is the easiest process,” he told a Burlington
newspa-
per. “You take mash and you distill it to produce liquid. What
liqueur; it’s called maple spirit. Caledo-
do you do with it then? What do you blend
nia Spirits in Hardwick makes a barrel
it with? How do you treat it? What does
aged gin with honey. Smuggler’s Notch,
it touch? How is it aged? That’s all the
in Jeffersonville, makes a hopped gin.
craft piece of it.” Elliot openly acknowl-
Each of these distilleries is exploring
edges that his gold medal award winning,
the limits of the grain and palette, with
2010 Wine Enthusiast’s 12th Best Vodka
remarkable success.
in the World, is distilled in Idaho, where his grain is grown. The label on the bot-
The quality of these products isn’t in
tle, however, gives no indication that any
question. On the contrary, Vermont dis-
part of the production process occurred
tillers make some of the best spirits in
outside of the state. A tagline below a
the world. WhistlePig Farm, for example,
scenic landscape silhouette of its name-
received Wine Enthusiast’s highest ever
sake, Smuggler’s Notch, a valley between
award for a rye whiskey, which is bottled
rugged mountains that bootleggers used
in Shoreham, VT. The rye whiskey, how-
to smuggle moonshine from Canada dur-
ever, is distilled in Canada, imported to
ing prohibition, and the site of a popular
Shoreham, mixed with magic sauce, then
family ski resort, also of the same name,
bottled and sold as Vermont whiskey. But
reads: Vermont’s Mountain Spirit. Surely
is it? Comparisons are odious, but false
it contains some Idaho spirit as well.
advertising derelict.
PAGE 70 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
^ ABOVE
^ ABOVE A patron enjoys a sample of Vermont spirit at the Smugglers’ Notch tasting room
Winter 2015
And that’s not necessarily a bad thing,
building community networks and sup-
says Ryan Christiansen, head distiller
porting local commerce. We hope that “the
and production manager at Caledonia
community will change significantly from
Spirits distillery. Distillers can approach
our presence,” he said. Because of its rel-
the business with many different strate-
ative early success, Caledonia can have
gies. “The only thing that people agree
a stronger impact on local businesses.
on,” among Vermont distillers, “is that
“If a farmer isn’t growing what we need,
there needs to be truth in labeling.”
probably because he tried it in the past, unsuccessfully, we can now give them a
Alcohol is typically classified by, among
deposit for planting next season’s crops,
other things, its terroir. Scotch is from
so the farmer doesn’t have to assume all
Scotland, Bordeaux from the Bordeaux
of the risk, and we can get the local prod-
province of France, Champagne from
ucts we need.” Businesses begin to shape
Champagne, Irish whiskey from Ireland,
their business models off of the indus-
Bourbon from America, Tennessee Whis-
tries thriving around them. Of particular
key from, yes, Tennessee, each with dis-
interest to Christensen is access to local
tinct characteristics and flavors. Blend-
barley. Barley, he points out, needs to be
ed whiskey is labeled such. How does a
malted before distilled, which requires its
geographic hybrid spirit compare? What
own special craft. Christiansen notes the
should it be called?
introduction of a few malters that recently began operations in Vermont, in response
Located in Hardwick, VT, Caledonia Spir-
to growing craft beer and spirit industry
its originated as a honeybee farm, evolved
demands. “It’s a game of patience,” he
into a winery, and currently operates
said, “but in a few years we should have
as a distillery, one that takes craft seri-
the infrastructure streamlined.”
ously. “Hardwick, Caledonia Country,” its website reads, “is a community inspired
Vermont is not a good place for busi-
by farms where the production of milk,
nesses looking to apply a plug-and-play
cheese, timber, grains, honey, seeds, and
business model, Christensen said. That’s
herbs are part of our lives and help define
not what people around here want. Ver-
our place.” Christiansen, the head distill-
mont is a good place for businesses “look-
er, uses local grains and materials when-
ing for local welders, local farmers, and
ever possible. A drop of honey is added
community Christmas parties.”
before bottling its Barr Hill Gin, opening up complex new aromas and unique fla-
A good spirit is a good spirit, whether
vors that change with the seasons. Tom
“craft” or not, and regardless of how its
Cat, what is essentially gin, barrel aged
defined. But some care about more than
for four to six months in a charred Ameri-
taste, or savor the story of the spirit be-
can White Oak barrel, is possibly the only
hind the taste, and what it represents. We
of its kind. Caledonia’s Barr Hill Vodka is
taste with our senses, but also with our
distilled exclusively from the farm’s fer-
imagination. There’s a valid distinction
mented honey, which, when distilled, “re-
between a community oriented, locally
flects the soil and flowers visited by the
sourced, environmentally sustainable dis-
bees.” You can follow the bees’ activities
tillery, and a spirit culled together from a
on Caledonia’s “Live from the Hive” blog,
variety of sources and locations. It’s not
if so inclined.
that one is better than the other; they simply represent different philosophies.
But it’s not just about terrior for Chris-
One of a product, the other of a process,
tensen. The craft spirit is also about
purpose, and place.
PAGE 74 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
Photo courtesy of Caledonai Spirits
Photo courtesy of Caledonai Spirits
RESPECT THE BUZZ WE APPRECIATE CRAFT SPIRITS BUT WE APPRECIATE RESPONSIBILITY EVEN MORE
PAGE 78 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
Pairings: CALEDONIA SPIRITS IN SALT AIR a Rehoboth Beach picnic
Words by KAREN CLAYTON Photography by ANDY SHELTER
On the evening of December 11th, Todd
David concocted unique and whimsical
Hardie, owner & master distiller of Cale-
cocktails that accompanied each course,
donia Spirits in Hardwick, Vermont, made
ranging from a Green Mountain Kir Royale
a 14 hour trek through a foot and a half of
using Todd’s prized Elderberry Cordial, to
snow to share with an intimate group of 30
The Bear Cat that featured Caledonia Tom
folks the story of his hand crafted spirits.
Cat, a barrel aged gin, Creme de Cacoa, fresh cream and a dusting of nutmeg.
Todd is deeply connected with the land, his crops of elderberry, corn, barley and
The Bear Cat was a perfect accompani-
rye and his honey bees, in much the
ment to Maggie’s rendition of a decon-
same way that David Lynch, general
structed fruit cake. She used Todd’s barrel
manager of Salt Air, is to the dishes he
aged spirit to macerate dried winter fruits,
prepares for local epicures at one of Re-
as well as in the caramel sauce she used
hoboth
restaurants.
to write “Tom” across our plates. With
The pairing of the two put their art-
Beach’s
premier
each forkful of Date Nut Cake, Tom Cat
istry and skill on display, resulting in a
Caramel Sauce and Homemade Honey Ice
beautiful marriage of food and spirit.
Cream (made from Todd’s wildflower honey), we thought, “Surely, this is heaven!”
Executive Chef Matt Kern and Pastry Chef Maggie Cellitto built a menu to compli-
The evening was capped with a gener-
ment each of Todd’s hand crafted spir-
ous gift to each guest from Todd: a 1lb
its while incorporating each spirit into
jar of his highly sought after Wildflow-
every course! Every bite was delectable,
er Honey and an invitation to visit his
but Matt’s House Cured Beet and Hibis-
farm and meet the rest of the family!
cus Salmon with Dill Creme Fraiche and Paddlefish Roe drove home just how lucky
If you are seeking a true example of an
we were to have a seat at this dinner.
all-American, hand crafted, artisan spirit, Caledonia Spirits is certainly a great place to start, and a table at Salt Air a worthy alternative to a Delaware beach picnic.
PAGE 80 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
FIRST COURSE
Stilton Fritter molasses and black grape Vermont Cheeses the fixins’
PAGE 82 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
The Green Mountain Kir Royale Charles de fere Brut .25 oz of Caledonia Elderberry Cordial Serve in a champagne flute
SECOND COURSE Beet and Hibiscus Cured Salmon sweet potato blini, dill crème fraiche, paddlefish roe, grapefruit twist
PAGE 84 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
The Monarch 1.5 oz Barr Hill Gin .75 oz Giffard Creme de Pamplemousse .5 oz Cynar .5 oz lime Shake and serve in a highball topped with soda and a grapefruit twist
THIRD COURSE Coriander Crusted Scallop cucumber, yogurt, crispy parsnip, tarragon emulsion
PAGE 86 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
Vermont Vesper 2 oz. Barr Hill Gin 1 oz. Barr Hill Vodka .5 oz. Cocchi Americano, stir with cracked ice and serve up with an orange twist
DESSERT COURSE
Take-A-Part Fruitcake date nut cake, spiced tom cat caramel, honey ice cream, tom cat macerated winter fruit
PAGE 88 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
The Bear Cat 1.5 oz Tom Cat Barrel Aged Gin .75 oz White Crème de Cacao .75 oz cream shake vigorously and serve up with a dusting of nutmeg
MicroShiner #JoinTheMovement—Subscribe Now! www.MicroShiner.com
Personal Gear For us here at MicroShiner, craft is about more than just spirits and cocktails. Its about creating a culture built upon connecting people with producers who share similar philosophies and goals. Whether someone is looking for a bespoke product to express their personal taste and identity, a local or more sustainable alternative to the big name brands, or simply the best example of an item that money can buy, today’s craft manufacturers have it covered. Winter gear is no exception, and for this issue we have curated a number of items from custom and independent brands that are sure to appeal to the craft-oriented whiskey & winter sports enthusiast.
^ Great American Flask $250 MSRP www.bexargoods.com
> Marhar Archaic snowboard $459.95 MSRP www.marharsnowboards.com
PAGE 92 | MicroShiner.com
Autumn 2013
> Jeffrey 114 ski $729 MSRP www.on3pskis.com < Kartel 106 ski $679 MSRP www.on3pskis.com
Khaki Kamper jacket $339 MSRP www.nwt3k.com V
MountainMoonshine Photography by Jeremy Jensen
Words by Drew de la Rosa
The Sierra Nevada mountain range is often overlooked when the somewhat obscure topic of mountain ranges is discussed. It isn’t revered for the romance of yodelers and edelweiss like the Alps, lacks
the
famous
Sherpa
dominated
peaks of the Himalayas, and no longer has the reputation as playground of the rich and famous that the Rockies now enjoy. In fact, the Sierra’s prominence has only arisen in history a couple of times. Once when the treacherous weather forced weary travelers to supposedly succumb to hunger in the ultimate way. A second time a few years later when gold was found in Sutter Creek. And most recently when mobsters ran South Lake Tahoe as depicted in Mario Puzo’s classic story.
But for those who live in the shadow of
ing any kind of oil product directly to the
these ancient monoliths, jutting toward
ground is extremely detrimental to the
the sky and dividing two states glamor-
environment, and runoff to the sea cata-
ized in their own way, the Sierras are still
strophic to marine life. After riding home
very relevant. Aside from this year, the
on his motorcycle one night, Jeff realized
Sierras provide California with the bulk
his bike, shoes, and pants were all coat-
of their water. Conversely, they create a
ed in a sticky residue, presumably from
rain shadow in Nevada that leads to the
the tar they were using on the dirt roads.
Great Basinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famed arid climate. A winter
Upon further inspection, though, he saw
crossing is a rite of passage for all new
that the substance was actually molas-
drivers and makes the reward of a snow
ses, and more molasses was discovered in
filled weekend that much sweeter. Resi-
the repurposed drums.
dency is usually reserved for the wealthy or the fiercely independent. Tahoe Moon-
Sugar cane is one of the major agricul-
shine owner and founder Jeff VanHee
tural products in Costa Rica. From it is
could be described as the latter.
derived various forms of sugar such as the molasses used on the roads and a
Not independent in a doomsday prepper,
granulated product called Sucanat. Back
I-have-a-bunker-in-my-back-yard-filled-
in Ukiah, Jeff had been making fuel etha-
with-30-years-of-canned-beans
of
nol from cattails growing in black water
way. More in a free spirit fashion. Pun not
reed beds. In Costa Rica, he continued
really intended.
this hobby after discovering the immense
kind
availability of Sucanat. His fuel operation Jeff has been living in Tahoe since 1990.
went well, powering many small motors
Originally
took
on ethanol, but the industry was moving
him down the West Coast, and recent-
toward a purity obsession, rather than
ly through Mendocino County and into
the original goals of sustainable energy. It
Santa Cruz. Mendocino is famous for its
became popular to add benzene to extract
cannabis industry, but many donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t real-
the remaining water from the distillate,
ize that it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just about the weed. The
but benzene is carcinogenic and not very
whole area has a very progressive culture
fun to play with.
from
Oregon,
surfing
promoting holistic liberty. Jeff studied alternative building in Ukiah through the
So, Jeff did what any other person would
Solar Living Institute and eventually took
do in this situation and just drank
these skills to Costa Rica where he worked
his fuel.
as a contractor to feed his surfing habit. Sucanat turned out to make a very high You could call Costa Rica the birthplace
quality product, so much so that Jeff still
of Tahoe Moonshine. A good portion of the
uses it as the base of many of his spir-
roads down there are unpaved dirt, and
its, still imported from Costa Rica, and
dust control during the dry season is a
organic. It is one of the few ingredients
real problem. So the government would
not locally sourced, but the practice still
coat the dirt roads to stave the erosion.
aligns with his deeply rooted grassroots
Jeff saw 55 gallon drums labeled by a
philosophy. The only mass produced corn
petroleum company near one of the road
neutral grain spirits you will find at the
work areas and became immediately con-
Tahoe operation are used for prototyping
scious of its proximity to the ocean. Add-
flavors and topping off smaller yields.
PAGE 98 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015 Autumn 2013
MicroShiner.com | PAGE 99
PAGE 100 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
It was poetry
basic simple in structure
like a haiku
Owner and distiller Jeff Van Hees holds up a bottle of his Tahoe Moonshine
PAGE 102 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015 Summer 2014
It took me a while to find the distillery.
to a multipurpose loft, home to miscel-
My Sonoma County predisposition had
laneous storage and the potential energy
me looking for a gaudy mansion or some
gravity provides for moving fluids around.
elaborate wine caves. Instead, in the cen-
Even though this area was strictly busi-
ter of a tiny industrial complex, I found an
ness, Wu Tang Clan resonated from large
unassuming corrugated steel warehouse
speakers in the room. I was told ska and
split into two units, Tahoe Moonshine oc-
reggae make regular appearances, too.
cupying one of them. It wasn’t really labeled and the only hint as to what was
Off in the corner of the main room sat the
happening inside was the standup paddle
cornerstone of the operation: a beautiful,
board sitting outside. I had never met Jeff
120 gallon, full copper still, custom made
before this, never spoke to him aside from
for Tahoe Moonshine from Jeff’s own de-
a few scheduling emails, and didn’t know
signs. This functional work of art stood
anything about him. I was a bit surprised
about eight feet tall on a raised platform,
when my knock at the door was answered
everything around it clear for efficient
by a smiling long-haired man who ap-
work and proper safety. The build is sim-
peared to be in his late thirties, followed
ple. Amazingly so. Distillation isn’t a ter-
by a massive malamute that looked more
ribly complex concept, but his isn’t much
like a furry barrel than a dog. Boulder,
different than other homemade stills I
the perfect name. I don’t know what I was
have seen. Obviously it had much better
expecting, perhaps Jonathan Goldsmith
fit and finish, but it goes to show that the
as the Most Interesting Man in the World,
tools do not make the craftsperson. It had
but not the embodiment of Santa Cruz.
a main chamber made of copper sheet, and a removable top attached to a marble-
Soon it became clear, however, that re-
packed reflux column. Sitting not too far
gardless of his looks, Jeff was a man with
away is another custom pot attachment.
a plan, forged in hard work and determi-
The whole thing was heated by four basic
nation. The epitome of Zen balance be-
heating elements. It was like poetry, ba-
tween a dedicated servant to the task at
sic, simple in structure, like a haiku.
hand, and a guy that just wants to chillax with his buddies. This vibe resonated
Jeff and his team, copiloted by longtime
throughout the small distillery, the first
friend and super cool dude, Seth Hall,
room being home to a no-nonsense desk
started with five products: light and dark
and work area, as well as a collection of
Sucanat rums, GMO-free corn Stormin’
comfy couches and ottomans on which
Whiskey, Snowflake Vodka and a gin,
Boulder promptly plopped after receiving
both made from local honey out of Placer-
sufficient attention from their new guest.
ville, CA. The Stormin’ is barrel aged for
Also another paddle board. The next room
one year in French oak barrels in house.
was a combination cleanup station and,
Production started in 2010, but in 2011,
uh, sampling center.
they found distribution on a much grander scale, first Epic Distributing, and then
The first two rooms ran the depth of the
the big time with Southern Wine and Spir-
building at half width. The other half was
its. Today they enjoy a presence in retail-
completely taken up by the main produc-
ers all across California and Nevada such
tion area, a room dominated by dozens
as bars, BevMo!, Total Wine, Whole Foods,
of fermentation vessels, oak aging casks,
and Raley’s. Business is going very well
and a secured bonded area, about 2,000
for their small payroll. So well, in fact,
gallons total. A sketchy metal ladder led
that they have already sold out of their
newest offering, Danger Dog, an 80 proof,
He explains that he could have made it
rough cut cinnamon whiskey with just a
easier on himself; all he had to do was
hint of maple sweetness.
add 10% brandy to each of his products and doors would open. But that isn’t Jeff.
The whole time I had been talking with
That wouldn’t be in compliance with his
Jeff, I’d been sitting on one of the very
vision for his products. One of the things
comfy couches in the front room. Boul-
that California law allows had he added
der had remained stationary, asleep on
the brandy is the ability to serve and sell
an adjacent sofa like a gargantuan throw
directly to customers onsite without a dis-
pillow. Time was running out, as Jeff had
tributor. New law in Nevada allows direct
to get home to his wife and 7 month old
sales on-site including small-batch, non-
daughter. I had tried to come prepared
production products, as well as testers
with a list of questions and topics, but we
and prototypes of exciting new flavors.
had gotten lost in stories about his beginnings. We touched briefly on the present,
By the end of March, Jeff hopes to have
but what really interested me was the fu-
completed the move into their new home,
ture. I asked for just a few more minutes,
which will include a speakeasy bar and
if it wasn’t too much of a problem, and
tasting room, a few miles down the road
he graciously obliged. And poured me a
in Stateline, NV. He told me that he had
second
actually been down at the location ear-
Danger
Dog,
which
was
dangerously delicious.
lier that day finishing up some electrical work, satisfying the contractor still
I asked Jeff what his five year plan was.
in him, even though he has given all of
He chuckled, but didn’t skip a beat. Man
his time to Tahoe Moonshine and let
with a plan. It is no secret that up until re-
his license lapse this last year. The new
cently, Nevada has been less than hospi-
place will be a bit larger than their cur-
table toward distillers. State laws made it
rent 1,400 square foot location, but will
very difficult for small operations to come
accommodate their current demand of
to fruition, let alone profitability. Restric-
about 50 cases a day without pushing the
tions regarding direct sales and distribu-
limits of their current 2,000 case annual
tion were major hurdles. Headway was re-
production capabilities. He is also excit-
ally only made in the last decade or so. It
ed to add a second still to the workflow,
still isn’t a cakewalk, which is part of the
another custom design.
reason Jeff initially chose the California side of the lake to set up shop. However,
Jeff has high hopes for the future. Eter-
despite its impressive craft beer and wine
nally humble, but I refuse to let him call
industry, or maybe rather because of it,
his hopes anything less than premoni-
California isn’t the most friendly state
tions. I seriously doubt he will cease turn-
toward distillers either. This shocked me.
ing the crystal clear Lake Tahoe water
I threw out multiple examples of bran-
into top shelf product, but he isn’t dis-
dy distillers operating in the state and
tracted by the future and accounts for
was confused as to why Tahoe Moon-
all contingencies. After the move, Tahoe
shine would be treated any differently.
Moonshine’s top goals will be to intro-
Jeff’s answer was concise, and telling.
duce a few new flavors, including a rye
The grape lobby.
and Dream Bean coffee liqueur with local
PAGE 108 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
PAGE 112 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
roaster Alpine Sierra. They are also work-
was having a kid. Their daughters were
ing on a line of premixed drinks consigned
born two weeks apart. We walked back
by MGM Resorts and, likely, national
into what served as the tasting room and
brand recognition.
he pulled some chips and hummus from a fridge with a toaster oven on top that
With that, I let Jeff go. It was apparent
I hadn’t noticed before. He continued to
that his passion could keep him talking
pour samples and described the whole
for hours more, but he is still a family
process in a way that sounded holistic.
man. The interview took a while to set up
Like the sculptor that sees the art in the
since he was jet setting the month prior,
clay before he touches a tool. Yeast stud-
off to Paris where is wife splits her work
ies, yeast recordings, how they sound like
time, and then down to Costa Rica to
whale calls while they are healthy, and TV
surf and water his roots. I thanked him
snow when they aren’t. Part superstition,
for his time and he couldn’t have been a
he says he talks to them like plants and
better host. Before he took off, he asked
plays them music, believing in the power
Seth to show me around again and an-
of intention and positive energy. All of this
swer any more questions, then the two
coming from a guy that would look right
of them made plans to hit the slopes for
at home at a Metallica show, hair longer
an early morning ride at Heavenly before
than Jeff’s under a plain beanie.
coming back to work at their dream job. With a handshake and a pet, I bid Jeff and
Both
Boulder farewell.
passionate guys.
Seth gave me a more nuanced tour of the
It was getting late. I intended to be in and
place, showing me all kinds of nifty dis-
out of their hair in about an hour, but I
tilling equipment they had collected. Bits
had stayed for nearly three. Usually I am
and pieces of specialty copper, mesh, col-
hyper aware of being an imposition, but
umn parts, and a variety of essential oil
never did that cross my mind. They were
equipment. I got to try a few of their pro-
so welcoming and never once made me feel
totypes, including a one off batch of their
uncomfortable. I am sure the generous
gin that came out deliciously cucumber-y
tastings helped, but even when we parted
and a pomegranate hibiscus absinthe. I
ways, both made sure I had their con-
have never had anything off the shelf with
tact information and would call them if I
such delicate flavors. Maybe they will see
needed anything else, or if I just wanted to
a label, maybe not. Seth focuses mainly
come by again and kick it. I needed to kill
on the product now, while Jeff handles
some time, get some food, and then battle
the business side of things. The two of
the elements back through the mountains
them come up with recipes, but they also
and the weather that was brewing.
of
them
very
cool,
very
promote experimentation by their small number of employees. Eight in total,
I can’t wait to get back up there, to see
including
their new place, but I am more excited to
a
few
sales
and
marketing specialists.
see them appear in more local bars and stores. Tahoe Moonshine, like the lake it-
Seth shared great stories about the be-
self, a perfect, oval cut sapphire in a gran-
ginnings of the company. Told about
ite setting, is unique, robust, and stands
wild beginnings, surfing, partying, a jam
for everything the Sierra Nevada moun-
band concert where he and Jeff both
tains have come to represent.
became the first people to know the other Raw but still fragile. And loved by many.
MicroShiner #JoinTheMovement â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Subscribe Now! www.MicroShiner.com
High Altitude Colorado’s Après Spirits
The word “après” has for decades been an essential term in ski culture. Few experiences are more satisfying than finishing a day on the slopes by sipping a cocktail at the base of the mountain. In Colorado, where the heavy influence of craft beer culture dominates the drink menu at most establishments, it can take some effort to track down a cocktail stocked with handmade, small batch liquor. Lucky for you, MicroShiner has done the research on the subject and come back with some of the best craft cocktails in the high country. Next time you’re departing Denver west on I-70, check out one of these slope-side bars.
Curated by Tim Wenger
Rathskellar Bar, Loveland At the base of Loveland Ski Area, the Rathskellar Bar sits tucked away in the bottom floor of the main lodge. In lieu of drinking upstairs with the tourists, the locals prefer The Rathskellar for its laid back vibe and homemade chili, as well as a bar fully stocked with Colorado originals. The Rathskellar is open daily from 10 am to 6 PM.
Dave’s Drifter The signature cocktail of bar manager Dave Tilley has long been a local’s favorite. Named after Tilley and one of his favorite runs, Dave’s Drifter is the house favorite. Dave has been running the show in the Rathskeller for 19 years. The drink is made with Tincup Colorado American Whiskey, Loveland’s Homemade Irish Cream, Coffee Liquor with choice of coffee or hot chocolate topped with whipped cream.
PAGE 118 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
Incline Bar and Grill, Copper Mountain Incline Bar and Grill is located in the Mill Club Building at the base of the American Eagle lift at Copper Mountain and has developed a reputation as the place to go at Copper for local spirits and 17 Colorado microbrews. As far as craft spirits, this place is a meccafive vodkas, one gin, 3 bourbons, and one liqueur. Ryan Worthen, one of the establishmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s managing partners, walked us through their list of craft cocktails.
Colorado Manhattan A high altitude take on the east coast classic Breckenridge
Bourbon
and
Breckenridge
Bourbon
Sipping Bitters.
Colorado Bourbon Whiskey Sour Breckenridge mix
(2
parts
Bourbon lime
3 parts sugar, 3 parts water)
PAGE 120 | MicroShiner.com
with
juice,
2
homemade parts
lemon
sour juice,
Winter 2015
T -Bar, Breckenridge The T-Bar sits at the base of Peak 8 in Breck, and
is
known
for
its
Bacon
Bloody
Mary.
However, the team at the T-Bar has put together a good list of craft cocktails. “The T -Bar is the best place for apres on the mountain,” says Alysa Hetze, Sr. Communications Coordinator for Breckenridge Ski Resort. “There are gorgeous views of Peak 8. We have an indoor and outdoor seating area, so it’s a great place to come have a drink at the end of the ski day. There is always live entertainment in here on the weekends.” The T-Bar is open daily at 11 am, with last call happening generally between 5 and 6 pm.
Sno Mule The Sno Mule is made with J&L Distilling’s Sno Vodka,
fresh
mint,
lime
juice,
simple
syrup,
and Gosling’s Ginger Beer.
Fyr Side The Fyr Side is crafted with J&L Distilling’s Fyr Liqueur, hard cider, lemon juice, served over ice.
Peach 8 Apple Cider This drink is made with Leopold Bros. Rocky Mtn. Peach Liqueur, Cinnamon Schnapps, garnished with a cinnamon stick and a dollop of whipped cream.
PAGE 122 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
Corona Bar, Eldora Mountain Resort The Corona Bar is the home base for apres when skiing at Eldora. Located upstairs in the Timbers Lodge, the place features live music on weekends (generally jam band and bluegrass, the resort is located just outside of Nederland, one of the state’s most notorious “hippie towns”) and generally keeps the party going until about 6 pm.
Eldora Eggnog Bar manager Chris Turner put this concoction together to thicken the blood of patrons after they spend a day outside in the windy Roosevelt National Forest. Starting with a quart of Chris’ home-made eggnog, he adds 12 oz of bourbon whiskey and 1 ½ oz of brandy.
PAGE 124 | MicroShiner.com
Winter 2015
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