MicroShiner - Issue 07

Crafting the Aloha Spirit: Island

Distillers

MicroShiner Definitive Guide to the World of Craft Spirits

Summer 2014

chapel Hill’s

Top of the Hill

DISTILLERY

SPIRIT WORKS Keeping it Local and Organic

LONGBOARD ARTIST Finding the Flow

PROOF - SEATTLE Washington State Distillers Showcase SUMMER 2014

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contents Letter From the Publisher Drinking Music Spirit Review—Scorpion Mezcal Craft Event—PROOF -Seattle, WA Crafting Cocktails—Sonoma Distilling Co’s Old Fashioned TOPO Distillery - Chapel Hill, North Carolina Artisan—McCollum Custom Longboards Spirit Works - Sebastapol, California Pairings­—Whistling Andy’s Hopshnop Island Distillers - Hawaii

summer

2014

11 12 16 18 28 34 54 72 90 106

Publisher Contributing Editor Staff Contributor Staff Photographer Webmaster

Cobey Williamson David Schreib Jeff Mattson Brian Cary Kelsey Binder

Contributing Design & Production

Sean Schlimgen

Contributing Writers

Vita Duva Chrissy Cary Jacquelyn Davis Emily Hamaan

Contributing Photographers

Brian Johnson Craig McCollum Ryan Castoldi Marc Woltinger Beth Fischer

Working Dog Media, LLC 1406 Summerdale Rd Corvallis, MT 59828

Š2014 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine cannot be duplicated without the prior written consent of the owner. The views contained within the contents of MicroShiner Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of its owners or staff.

Cover Photo & Inside Cover by Brian Cary / Contents Photo by Beth Fischer

Photo by Ryan Castoldi ÂŤ MicroShiner.com | PAGE 9

Letter from the Publisher

PAGE 10 | MicroShiner.com Âť Photo by Brian Cary

Letter from PUBLISHER the

According to the Oxford Dictionary, to distill is to “extract the essential meaning or most important aspects of,” which for me is the most intriguing thing about the whole micro-distiller movement. The entire enterprise is predicated upon the act of condensing a substance to its fundamental core, so that we can appreciate it at the most elemental level. And while on the surface this may appear to simply be a reference to the physical process of distilling craft spirits, I believe it actually speaks to a deeper sentiment which is motivating this burgeoning craft culture.

Words matter. We use them constantly, and sometimes without fully comprehending the subtle nuance separating one from another, or how and why they first came into being. I like to describe MicroShiner as “the definitive guide to the world of craft spirits”; but does that refer to the craft subset of liquor only, or does it denote a world embodied by the spirit of the crafters themselves?

If this magazine concerned itself with nothing more than alcohol, I would consider it a failure. Ultimately, the goal is not to promote one bottle

or label over another, but to inspire our readers to embark on a process of distillation in their own lives, to pare them down to “the essential meaning or most important aspects of.”

What this means in practice is up to each of us to determine, but I believe there are some common elements upon which we, at least those of us who live in the world of craft spirits, can all agree. They are such preoccupations as making conscientious choices in sourcing, preparing, and serving our food and drink; exploring ways of meeting our needs outside the box and in our own backyards; and deliberately investing in products and ventures that we feel best serve our goal of creating the world in which we want to live: a world of craft spirits.

I hope that within these pages you find the inspiration to join us as we embark upon this journey.

Life. Distilled.

Cobey Williamson Publisher

DRINKING MUSIC

By Jeff Mattson

Drinking Music Glasgow | L.A. | Brooklyn Music and spirits are inextricably intertwined. Whether it’s the

purpose than sheer enjoyment.

rat pack & martinis, the jazz age and bathtub gin, saloon whis-

key and a player piano, or just pickin’ on the porch with a jar

awash with corporate product. Artists are groomed and se-

of shine, where you find one, you will likely find the other. So

lected based on one thing: their ability to sell records. All of

many analogies exist between the two that we felt, as a maga-

the coarseness and irregularity is eliminated, and much of

zine about craft and spirits, inclined – nay almost obliged – to

the nuance and the intangible lost. To paraphrase Neil Young

dedicate some space to music.

at the onset of the digital age, the real music lives between

the 0 and 1.

Music is a craft. Doing it well depends on bringing a

Just as it is in the spirits business, the music market is

number of elements together in just the right proportions,

In that regard, and in keeping with the theme of this pub-

and as with crafting spirits, the resultant product is al-

lication, what we hope to offer you here is that space between

ways greater than the sum of its parts. Differences in equip-

the step and the curve that is so important, yet often goes over-

ment, training, ingredients, recipes are reflected in subtle,

looked. Here we hope to share some bands and music that you

and sometimes not so subtle, variations in character, flavor,

might just find playing onstage in your local tasting room or

tenor, and tone. Each begins with a handful of raw material

watering hole. Here, as with the micro-distilleries we focus on,

that, through a practiced and perfected process, culminates

you just might happen upon someone you know, and together

in a refined and handcrafted product, often for no greater

enjoy a little drinking music.

PAWS

Youth Culture Forever PAWS are a band from Glasgow, Scotland. Fairly straight forward indie rock and roll is probably the simplest description I can give. A hint of late 90’s to early 00’s pop-punk, but with more substance, and a whole lot more distortion.

And forget about polished vocals. On their new album “Youth Culture Forever” they at times sound like they were laid down on a cassette player.

PAGE 12 | MicroShiner.com

But interviews suggest

only to dip back seamlessly

the band is trying to stay

into the lull.

away from any lo-fi tags.

That’s fine, I can grapple with

rambunctious

that. What really matters is

sure to be a fan favorite when

that this album rocks. Be-

played live. “Alone” takes a

hind a wall of distortion, this

drowsy stoppage from the

is a collection of surprisingly

chaos and obviously deals

catchy sing along songs.

with

“Give Up” is a driven,

feelings

sing

of

along,

isolation:

The opening track “Er -

“Why should you care about

reur Humaine” is a lulling

what the others think/fuck

and melodic verse that won-

what the others think/when

ders “Do you believe that our

you die, you’re gone, there’s

race has been run? If the an-

no use for you”.

swer is yes, then please tell

me who won.” It then impa-

just under 12 minutes and is

tiently transitions to over -

essentially a huge jam track,

whelming distortion and a

save for the first 2 minutes

blunt

and a jam-signaling, blood-

percussive

response

“War Cry” is an epic of

Summer 2014 boiling “war cry” from lead singer

Phillip

Taylor

that

had me clutching my head in euphoria.

The album is filled with

universal feelings about significant others, seeing lost flames love others, and troubling family life. And despite these supposed clichés, it’s their

brutal

honesty

and

forthcoming regarding these events that make this album relatable. It’s not a lack of subtlety; it’s laying it all out there.

Easily

lease

of

my

favorite

re-

2014

thus

far.

This album has made for a blazing soundtrack to my entire summer. Youth Culture Forever! Crank up your stereo and revel in some true blue honest rock. Whiskey works for this one.

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DRINKING MUSIC

together PANGEA

BADILLAC

A little bit punk, a little bit grunge, and absolutely part of the new wave of rough and dirty rock and roll, whether they like it or not. And while 10 years ago this music would have been coming out of the Pacific Northwest, the current wave is trudging out of Los Angeles, CA. Members include William Keegan on guitar and vocals, Danny Bengston on bass and Erik Jimenez on drums.

Chunky

gui-

most hardened rocker to feast

ing one ounce of their rock

the cat man/he’s the taker of

tar, banged up drums, and

distorted

upon. The album makes a

credibility. If you’re not feel-

lives/he’s a bad man/he’s got

monster bass back wailing

bold entrance with “Alive”,

ing particularly angst ridden,

oceans for eyes”. Feeling more

vocals that range from harsh

with lead singer/guitarist Wil-

you’ve got slower songs like

self-deprecating? “Sick Shit”

screams to melodic croons.

liam Keegan belting out “Liv-

“No Way Out” to temper the

will do just fine with nihilis-

for

ing a lie and you don’t even

mood, but honestly, the ap-

tic lyrical content set against

BADILLAC

care/Living a lie and you’re

peal of this album truly lies in

a

and damned if that title track

unaware!” over headbanging,

the unfiltered unbridled rock

minded instrumentation.

isn’t catchy, man. In fact,

palm muted guitar.

and roll.

the

There’s also the twisted

and roll. It’s got a dark side

Their

album,

2014,

called

is

entire

album

new

is

filled

You have your pick of poi-

backdrop

of

apathetic

Unkept, uncombed rock

with enough hooks to stock

sons here, tracks like “Badil-

“Cat Man” which starts out

and it’s proud of it. Grab a

a fish fry, as well as enough

lac” or “River” have the poten-

with a dark guitar based groove

rum and coke, pop this on the

screaming guitar solos and

tial to be stuck in your head

only to break into a mental

juke box, and make yourself

snarling vocals for even the

for days on end without yield-

institute

some rockaholic friends.

PAGE 14 | MicroShiner.com

nightmare:

“He’s

Summer 2014

Habibi

Habibi

Some quick background: Habibi means “My beloved” in Arabic.

Now that we’ve got that out of the way, Habibi are also a fantastic group of musicians from Brooklyn, New York, comprised of Lenaya Lynch on guitar and backup vocals, Rahill Jamaltfard on lead vocals and tamborine, Erin Campbell on guitar, bass and vocals, and rounded out by Karen Isabel on drums.

Their

harmo-

wrongs: “She Comes Along”

vocal style juxtaposed with

was released this year on

self-titled

debut

Candid

nies and surf guitar abound

vocal

is a lackadaisical low key surf

the stark background har-

Burger Records and is as

over an enjoyably danceable

rock song that lays easy on

monies that flow out of each

catchy an album as you can

rhythm section. 11 tracks of

the ears, “I Got The Moves” is

song.

hope to find. A beautiful mix

short and straight to the point

a title appropriate toe tapper

of 60’s girl group, surf rock,

pop arrangements, in fact the

to get the legs moving, and

rhythm to keep you mov-

and garage rock.

longest track clocks in at

“Let Me In” is a sneaky bass

ing throughout, perfect for

No frills surf guitar, tight

And I don’t say beauti-

3:27, with the majority of the

grooving kicker with a hint of

your summer road trip. Grab

ful because they’re an all girl

songs clocking in at under 3

coyish insecurity.

some mezcal and a lime and

group, I say beautiful be-

minutes. So there’s really no

And

cause their music freaking

opportunity to get bored.

ever

rocks. And it’s appropriately

singer

airy for the warmer weather.

ble cornucopia of can’t-go-

The album is a verita-

there’s

intriguing Rahill

something about

lead

Jamalifard’s

dark and somewhat hushed

head down to the beach to catch some final rays with some buddies.

SPIRIT REVIEW

By Vita Duva

Summer Spirit: Scorpion Mezcal - Scorpion Mezcal S.A. de C.V., Oaxaca, Mexico While mexcal is the oldest spirit to be distilled in North America, this complex, artisanal libation is far too often, and mistakenly, disregarded by today’s industry enthusiasts. Rooted in Oaxaca, a state in southern Mexico, mezcal derives from agave, a plant predominantly native to this land of enchantment.

Dubbed “Mexican Cognac” by

agave is only one of the 30

program that doubles as both

19th Century colonial aristo-

legally recognized strains of

a learning platform and a pro-

crats, Oaxaqueños tradition-

the agave plant, making mez-

motional tool. French has also

ally serve mezcal straight with

cal one of the most multifac-

been working directly with

a slice of orange and sal de

eted intoxicants on the globe,

Caballero’s Inc., an importer

gusano - a mixture of ground-

as there is likely an unlim-

of fine mezcals in Oaxaca.

fried larvae, ground chili pep-

ited combination of taste pro-

And in 2002, he partnered

pers and salt.

files for mezcal that have yet

with Sweetman.

to be explored.

Cooked and roasted

“Scorpion

Before

Scorpion,

underground, mezcal is cer-

Mezcal

mezcals on the market fea-

tainly noted for its exception-

Anejo 5 Year is a blend of

tured a worm at the bottom of

ally smoky tang. Despite this,

70% espadin and 30% bar-

the bottle, which adds flavor

mezcal is often revered for

rils agave. It is aged five years

to the hard stuff. But, as a

having little to no bite, mak-

in Canadian oak and double

crafty marketing ploy, French

ing this liquor one enjoyed by

distilled,”

Barbara

decided to put a scorpion

a wide range of palettes.

Sweetman, Vice President and

in his bottle, even though it

Tequila, which is ac-

International Sales Manager

adds no additional flavoring.

tually a subtype of mezcal,

of Scorpion Mezcal. The Anejo

Then, Sweetman coined the

allows production from only

5 Year is her favorite variety.

ever-popular tagline: worms

the Blue Weber agave. Blue

She adds teasingly, “I must

are for wimps.

explains

have expensive taste.”

The Anejo 5 Year is

one of seven types of mezcal produced by Master Distiller Douglas French and his 18 year-old

Oaxaca-based

dis-

tillery, Scorpion Mezcal S.A. de C.V. French, an early pioneer

in

the

industry,

has

helped transform mezcal from a hardly reputable, low-class workers drink into the worldclass beverage it was always meant to be.

with

Working side by side the

Association

Pro-

cultura de Mezcal A.C. and other well-known producers, French helped to launch a Master Mezcalier certification

PAGE 16 | MicroShiner.com

This got people not

only drinking, but buzzing.

And before French knew it, Scorpion Mezcal had taken on a reputation of its very own.

Now, with this wider following, aficionados of mezcal have begun experimenting with cocktails and mixed drinks.

“I like working with

Scorpion most is

Mezcal

cocktails

not

Silver

in

because

it

overly-smoked

and

the true agave flavors still come out,” says Sweetman, as she mixes the Silver with equal parts orange, mango, and passion fruit juices. She tops the concoction off with some mint and lime.

Although simple, the

blend is clean, crisp, and goes down quite easy – definitely worth a shot or two.

In the words of the Oaxacan’s: for everything bad, Mezcal for everything good, the same

LOGGERHEAD DECO, INC. 1187 W. HAWTHORNE LANE. WEST CHICAGO, IL 60185

CRAFT EVENT

By Emily Hamaan / Photos by Ryan Castoldi

PROOF: Washington Distiller’s Guild Fremont Studios, Seattle WA At its core, PROOF was a celebration of the art of craft in the Pacific Northwest, including the collaboration and creativity that resides in its burgeoning craft spirits culture.

PAGE 18 | MicroShiner.com

CRAFT EVENT

PAGE 24 | MicroShiner.com

CRAFTING COCKTAILS Sonoma County serces up their take on a classic cocktail in the Penn Club Presidents’ Room.

Summer 2014

CRAFTING

P

COCKTAILS

tinctive complexity and square-

FEATURE RECIPE

assing a dazzling myriad

of chandeliers and gilded sconces,

jawed afterthought. Not to mention, both companies share in Sonoma’s dedication to American tradition and proudly choose

Independent Spirits Expo Manhattan Cocktail Classic

I meander my way up a grandiose oak staircase – I have finally made it into the Penn Club’s President’s

to drift from modern trends within the industry.

VITA

Room for the start of the New York In-

DUVA

dependent Spirits Expo. This May, the ar-

“We have built this business

around our drinkers,” states Spiegel.

“Our customers appreciate that we take

tisanal tasting is presented in sync with

the time to put our best efforts on the

the Manhattan Cocktail Classic. Chatter rises in harmony with the stemless glass-

“Our goal is to find a way to

table. We are making whiskeys more fla-

ware, as cocktails pour feverishly, one

maintain the integrity of the spirit,

vorful and dynamic than 90% of what is

right after another.

while also allowing consumers who may

out there.”

And while the room highlight-

not be ‘neat’ drinkers to enjoy our rye

ing founding father Benjamin Franklin

whiskey,” says Spiegel of the timeless

for six years, still humbly considers him-

and his plentiful accomplishments is

Old-Fashioned mix.

self a student of his fine craft. He contin-

both intense and charming, it is in fact

He adds, “We are looking to

ues to try to understand the approaches

the congested arrangement of small, in-

transform the drinkers’ experience with

of others, while further developing his

dependent spirits and artisan personas

robust flavors and elongated finishes to

well-rounded skills in order to ultimately

that have come to grab my full attention.

ensure our whiskey pairs well with a good

better Sonoma’s whiskies.

meal, happy and joyful celebrations, and

hidden in the far right-hand corner of

can complement a perfect moment.”

the Old-Fashioned, that over the years

the energetic room. Two young gentle-

And that it does.

has been outshined by more modern mix-

men stand smiling in old-style aprons

Rye Whiskey, Sonoma’s key-

tures and weakened by unpleasant add-

amidst a display of whiskies, a tradi-

stone spirit and cocktail base, is aged in

ons such as seltzers and fruit garnishes,

tional copper alembic still, and a unique

new-charred American oak barrels and

Sonoma smartly reminds us of the ideals

yet classic drink titled, the “Sonoma

later finished off in an old wood. This is

on which this country was built and why

Old-Fashioned.”

the product of Sonoma’s grain-to-glass

breaking from convention is not always

These two gentlemen – Adam

production, which features a savory,

for the better.

Spiegel, Owner and Distiller, and Chase

dynamic blend of vanilla, allspice, and

Osthimer, Head of Sales and Marketing -

white pepper.

over the crowded room to find a statue

wholly represent the all-American quin-

Their Old Fashioned recipe calls

of Benjamin Franklin’s face, I sudden-

tessence that is the 4 year-old Rohnert

for Small Hand Food’s Gum Syrup and

ly realize just how fitting a backdrop

Park, California-based in-house distill-

both Scrappy’s Orange and Chocolate

the

ery, Sonoma County Distilling Co.

Bitters, which were chosen for their dis-

happens to be.

I approach a table somewhat

Spiegel, who has been distilling

Pushing a classic cocktail like

Looking up from my drink and

Penn

Club’s

President

Room

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 29

CRAFTING COCKTAILS

The Sonoma old Fashioned - 2 Ounces Sonoma Rye Whiskey - ½ Ounces Small Hand Food’s Gum Syrup - 2 Dashes Scrappy’s Chocolate Bitters - 1 Dash Scrappy’s Orange Bitters - Pour over fresh ice in a old fashioned glass.

Garnish with an orange peel Recipe and photo credit: Sonoma Distilling Company

Order yours today at: www.microdistillerybooks.com Amazon - Barnes & Noble

614 S. Higgins Ave - Missoula, Montana www.strongwatersurfboards.com

ON TOP OF THE World WRITTEN BY CHRISSY CARY

C

PHOTOS BY BRIAN CARY

in all of North Carolina: Top of the Hill hapel Hill, NC; home to the UNC

Restaurant, Brewery and Distillery.

Tar Heels, who count among its al-

ums the likes of Michael Jordan, Andy

in part due to the growing popularity of

TOPO, as nicknamed by the locals,

Griffith, and Mia Hamm. Ranked number

text talk, was the brainchild of Scott Mait-

3 on Newsmax Magazine’s “Top 25 most

land, founder and owner of Top of the Hill.

Uniquely American Cities and Towns,” as

Upon his graduation from law school in

written by CBS travel editor Peter Green-

1994, Maitland felt there must be more

berg, Chapel Hill was voted number 10 of

to the food, beer and spirit industry than

100 in CNN Money’s “Best Places to Live

the common chain restaurants that were

2012,” and is hailed as one of “America’s

quickly overrunning this bustling college

Foodiest Small Towns” by Bon Appetit

town. So after 2 years spent raising the

Magazine. It has been lovingly described

money necessary to realize his dream,

as “a town within a park” by those who

Top of the Hill Restaurant and Brewery

live there and, of greatest import, at least

opened to the public.

for anyone who enjoys good beer and spir-

its, is home to one of the most exception-

to win three platinum medals at the

ally anti-establishment craft producers

World Beer Championships, TOPO’s India

One of only six breweries in the world

PAGE 36 | MicroShiner.com

Summer 2014

Pale Ale was bestowed the even greater

ic and local] to be something that set us

serve vodka neat at room temperature; it

honor of being named the best example

apart from the rest. We are spreading the

often gets mixed with cranberry juice, tea,

of its style in the world. In order to offer

thought process, creating a demand for it,

orange juice, or sipped cold to hide the

customers more options than the simple

and creating an awareness in our commu-

flavor (or supposed lack thereof). So why

growler, TOPO’s brewery bought a six-

nity of buyers.”

put so much effort into something that

pack canning machine and began canning

But when TOPO began to work on

would otherwise just be used for its alco-

their IPA and lager, becoming the first

development of their next big spirit, gin,

hol content? Because the depth of qual-

micro-cannery in the South in 2005.

they hit a speed bump...there was no or-

A few years later, Scott decided to

ganic juniper being grown in the region.

open a separate micro-cannery, which

Maitland approached the local farmers in

would have to be a 20,000 barrel a year

search of organic berries but soon discov-

brewery. While waiting for the sales and

ered that as there was no known demand

distribution to catch up with the increased

for the produce, he was unable to acquire

production capacity, Maitland considered

the organic fruit. But now, thanks to Mai-

what he could do with the excess capac-

tland’s inquiries, the word is out and the

ity. Then the light bulb went off, “I could

wheels have been set in motion for the

distill it.” Thus, Top of the Hill Distillery

production and sale of organic juniper.

was born.

So while TOPO’s Piedmont Gin is cur-

From the beginning, Maitland was al-

rently only 99.8% local, the seed has been

ways interested in local economy, “We are

planted, and the future is looking bright

moving into the era of chains and fran-

for one of the first 100% local and organic

chises, local economy is in the transition of corporate consolidation.”

So

imagine his excitement when, while developing

the

distillery, he discovered that North Carolina is one of the best places to

gins to be produced

PEOPLE ARE UNAWARE THEY HAVE THE OPTION TO HAVE LOCAL AND ORGANIC SPIRITS.

in the US. “People

are

unaware they have the option to have local and organic spirits,”

Maitland

explains.

Therein the

mission

TOPO:

lies at

leveraging

grow soft red winter wheat, perfect for

their loyal customer base on behalf of

distilling vodka, gin, and whiskey. When

better agricultural techniques, respect-

he bumped into a local farmer attempt-

ful land use, and investment in the local

ing to sell his local organic soft red winter

economy.

wheat, Maitland realized this was the op-

used are sourced from within North Caro-

portunity to invest in the local raw materi-

lina; most can be found within 100 miles

als and encourage good land use he was

of the distillery’s front door.

looking for, all while being able to absorb

the cost and pass it on to a consumer base

mick, a guise created to sell spirits that

willing and prepared to assume it. Little

can’t stand on their own merits…but that

did he know that the organic wheat would

couldn’t be more wrong. “It is important

alter the taste of the spirits…for the bet-

that we do something rooted in tradition,

ter, giving them a sweeter, richer flavor.

rooted in artisanship.”

And as far as the wheat whiskey, it would

be full of the “leather and tobacco” flavors

tilled with 66 plates in their custom CARL

one would expect from bourbon (which

still; the vodka preserves some of the

is corn based), with the added benefit of

smooth flavoring found in the original in-

making the Carolina Whiskey smoother

gredients. Maitland describes the difficul-

and sweeter.

ties with selling a premium vodka, stat-

Discussing the use of organic prod-

ing that it is all about educating people.

ucts, Maitland states, “We wanted [organ-

When having a drink, rarely do Americans

PAGE 40 | MicroShiner.com

In fact, all of the ingredients

This may sound like a marketing gim-

Starting with the vodka: triple dis-

Summer 2014

< LEFT TOPO proprietor Scott Maitland describes the process used to create their award winning line of craft spirits.

IT IS IMPORTANT THAT WE DO SOMETHING ROOTED IN TRADITION, ROOTED IN ARTISANSHIP.

PAGE 44 | MicroShiner.com

Summer 2014

ity and care of the vodka can be tasted in

ing from the citrus, coriander, and cu-

everything you drink.

cumber has made this a welcome twist to

a standard gin and tonic.

At the distillery they have had many

converts (this author included) while com-

paring and contrasting the taste of TOPO

Whiskey; distilled and sold as a moon-

vodka against Tito’s (a well-respected

shine white whiskey, the TOPO flavor is

and established label in the industry).

anything but immature. It not only won

The TOPO spirit stood up against one of

Gold at the 2013 Craft Spirit Awards, but

the industry’s leaders, having a sense of

was also awarded the Silver medal by the

smooth sophistication that was full of va-

2013 San Francisco International Spirit

nilla notes, with none of the “burn” that

Competition

one would expect to encounter drinking

ing Institute of Chicago. While it is cur-

vodka neat at room temperature.

It’s

rently available only as a white whiskey,

this sublime profile that granted them

that isn’t to say that it was intended to

the Gold at the 2013 Craft Spirit awards,

be sold as “moonshine.” The depth of fla-

and 5 stars (the highest recommendation)

vors in this unaged whiskey is far from

from Spirit Journal’s F. Paul Pacult.

the artless contents one typically finds

in a mason jar.

The same base of this quality vodka

And finally there is the Carolina

and

The

Beverage

Tast-

(the “high wines”) is the base spirit for

the 2013 SIP Awards and 2014 Bever-

an idea that would allow the consumers

age Testing Institute Gold Medal-winning

to experience and taste their way through

Piedmont gin. The smooth depth of the

the aging process, by offering an “age

spirit enhances the light juniper flavor of

your own whiskey kit” and supplying

this easy-drinking gin. Described as an

the drinker with everything they would

American Contemporary Gin, the flavor-

need to create their very own aged spirit.

PAGE 46 | MicroShiner.com

With this in mind, Maitland birthed

Summer 2014

PAGE 50 | MicroShiner.com

Autumn Summer 2013 2014

Included is a 2 liter charred oak barrel,

farmers, food producers, and consum-

a spigot, and 3 bottles of TOPO’s Caro-

ers alike. It is in response to this crisis

lina Whiskey.

Due to the high volume

that North Carolina legislators authored

to surface area ratio of the small bar-

a bill that would allow commercial build-

rel, the aging process is greatly acceler-

ings to house bee colonies on their roofs

ated, creating a smooth wheat whiskey

to foster growth in the overall population.

in only 3 months while allowing the con-

Currently, the TOPO Bee Sanctuary is

sumer to taste test the spirit at any point

“cranking,” as Maitland puts it, creating

along the way.

a vast bee community on their roof. The

The idea behind TOPO is value added

epitome of sustainability and best practic-

production based on innovation, ground

es, TOPO is an organic experience, from

breaking ideas, and the reinvention of

grain to glass, and the only fully certified

quality. Keeping it local and organic, en-

organic distillery in the deep south.

couraging sustainable land usage while

creating a superior product; this is the

scheduled in advance, typically available

theme of the TOPO distillery.

Thursday and Friday – 6 pm and 7:30 pm,

And this

Tours are offered weekly but must be

theme is represented by not only the

and Saturday - 4 pm and 5:30 pm.

TOPO label, which illustrates the original

Chapel Hill church steeple, the ocean at

be found at most ABC stores in NC, but

the Outer Banks, the Piedmont farmland,

if you are somewhere outside of the North

and the Appalachian Mountains, but to

Carolina area and unable to make the

the distillery itself.

trip, TOPO also has the ability to ship,

In recent years, the honey bee pop-

not only their 750 mL bottles but also the

ulation has plummeted throughout the

“Age Your Own Whiskey Kit” and new 50

United States, largely from colony col-

mL bottles as well, to 43 states.

lapse disorder, creating a panic amongst

Bottles of Top of the Hill Spirits can

Find them at www.topodistillery.com

MicroShiner.com | PAGE 51

Life. Distilled.

Vintage Hot Rod Races Pendine Sands, Wales UK LOWTECH - Marc Woltinger

CREATE DIE OR

MISSOULA, MONTANA Written by JACQUELYN DAVIS Photos by BRIAN JOHNSON

W

ith

hands

chapped

from

twenty-two years of carpentry work in Missoula, MT, Craig McCollum carefully cuts wood with a band saw, watching through protective yellow glasses as it begins to take shape. The sweet scent of sawdust floats in the air of McCollumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s garage, the birthplace of McCollum Custom Longboards. On a wall above the band saw are displayed several of his boards, which he first started creating four years ago, when his fourteen-year-old son sparked his interest in skateboarding.

Little did he know that when

he bought his son a longboard, it would one day lead to creating and selling his own.

ed by the need to find a less physically

demanding

profession

than

carpentry

dur-

ing

the

Montana

harsh winters,

McCollum

can determine

I REALLY LIKE BEING IN THE SHOP AND CREATING SOMETHING, HE SAYS.

the

difference

between ally

THAT’S WHAT DRIVES ME.

ing

visu-

appealand

not

visually

ap-

pealing.”

be-

H

e

gan his foray into the craft by copying

an old photo of a great blue heron, Craig

uses more than 120 species from around

the shape of his son’s longboard onto

decided that his favorite bird would be a

the world, of which he keeps thirty in

exotic wood. Soon, through social me-

better fit. “It shows flight, motion, grace,”

stock at any one time, including Cuban

dia sites, the compliments began to add

he says. “I feel like that’s what cruising on

mahogany, African mahogany, and wa-

up, and McCollum Custom Longboards

a longboard is like.”

terfall bubinga. The boards are coated in

was born.

aesthetics

Created primarily for transporta-

Not only the logo but also the of

McCollum’s

their

combination

clear grip, “to allow their beauty to be dis-

longboards

played.” McCollum invites customers to

of

tion, longboard setups are composed of

convey

motion

mix and match these wood species, cuts,

larger wheels and a softer compound than

and grace. In addition to their practi-

and finishes, allowing for endless combi-

those of standard skateboards, giving

cal use, some have also been sold as

nations. The countless options are what

them a smoother ride. On each board is

wall art. McCollum sums it up when he

continue to intrigue McCollum as he de-

the McCollum logo, a silhouette of a great

says, “I’m a woodworker. I didn’t want

signs and sells his product. “Every time I

blue heron. Craig explains why he chose

to hide the beauty of them. Why not just

put out a really beautiful board, I am so

this logo, instead of the tree silhouette he

make them beautiful?”

enthralled by the beauty of wood and the

had originally intended.

combinations that come together when

“I wanted to exemplify what I

essence of surfing that McCollum has al-

you’re mixing and matching.”

do to the T. I really thought a tree would

ways admired, the boards are designed in

embody what I’m trying to evoke in my

patterns reminiscent of the 1960’s. His

decks, priced between $200 and $300.

product. But every time, it looked like the

eye for beauty and attention to detail, de-

The farthest he has shipped a longboard

Arbor skateboard logo.”

veloped through a background in photog-

was to a customer in Australia, but he

Finding a logo that symbolized

raphy, is evident in the contrast he cre-

mainly sells within the United States.

McCollum’s connection to wood proved

ates between combinations of finishes and

On average, the process which includes

harder than imagined, but coming across

various cuts of wood. “One-fourth inch

cutting, gluing, finishing, and drying,

PAGE 60 | MicroShiner.com

Strikingly representative of the

McCollum

has

crafted

fifty

Summer 2014

PAGE 62 | MicroShiner.com

Summer 2014

PAGE 64 | MicroShiner.com

Summer 2014

takes about nine to ten days, five hours

Andy Lennox, another local woodwork-

product is not the only thing that sets

per day. The business has presented

er, he met Nick, a high-end furniture

it apart from others. Since his boards

McCollum with “endless hurdles,” in-

maker, who teaches him the process of

are custom-made, they are one-of-a-

cluding the need to be conscientious of

working with veneers in exchange for

kind; while other companies employ art-

every step, from sanding and gluing to

McCollum’s grandmother’s cookies. It

ists and might mass produce 4,000 of

cutting woods straight; it can be espe-

was Nick who introduced McCollum to

the same design, McCollum has yet to

cially easy to make mistakes working in

the veneer cutter and vacuum press, for

make any two boards the same. “Hope-

thin sheets of veneer.

example, enabling him to work much

fully people find it unique enough for it

Some specific board designs

more efficiently. He has also established

to take off. For someone looking for not

have also proved challenging, includ-

a partnership with another upstart Mis-

your average board,” he says, “mine are

ing a patchwork design consisting of

soula business, Strongwater Mountain

individual to the rider. Every piece of

perfect squares and a board inlaid with

Surf Company, for whom he designs

wood is different, so even if two boards

the Big Dipper Ice Cream logo - which

powder boards—directional snowboards

are made with the same pattern and

took three tries and is now displayed in

with surf stop pads and a leash in place

species, they will still be different.”

the iconic Missoula ice cream shop it-

of metal edges or P-Tex binding, rid-

self. McCollum describes his craft as a

den in a surfing position on five to six

McCollum has since grown passionate

learning process. “We’re all limited to

inches of snow.

for it. Before he began his business, his

our creativity, but we can all get inspi-

McCollum’s passion for surf-

response to his son’s invitation to ride

ration from other people’s designs.” For

ing, whether in snow or water, is closely

with him was, “I’m 42 years old. I’m

him, the joy of creating a work of art

linked to his love of longboarding. He

not gonna longboard. Are you crazy?”

makes the challenges that come with

compares “carving the streets” on a

Now, three years later, he and his son

the business worthwhile. “I really like

longboard to surfing—both, he says, are

often ride around downtown Missoula

being in the shop and creating some-

“crazy fun.” This passion reveals itself

together. His longboards continue to

thing,” he says. “That’s what drives me.”

in McCollum’s work: while other compa-

reflect his creativity and passion while

Once hesitant to longboard,

One way McCollum has learned

nies use solid exotic woods for the core

serving fellow longboarders’ personal-

to navigate such challenges is by build-

of their boards, he uses birch to en-

ized requests. “It’s fun to do, to see what

ing connections within the community,

hance the very “flow” of their movement

ideas customers come up with,” he says.

as when he began to work with veneers,

that he enjoys.

“It’s fun to ride.”

which he buys from New York. Through

PAGE 66 | MicroShiner.com

The

quality

of

McCollum’s

Summer 2014

^ ABOVE Craig McCollum enjoys a break from crafting longboards in his shop in Missoula, Montana.

PAGE 70 | MicroShiner.com

SPIRIT WORKS Written by Chrissy Cary Photography by Brian Cary

I

brain child of husband and wife team n California’s wine country, known for

Timo and Ashby Marshall and their dog

its rolling hills blanketed with grape vines,

Bandit, who the sculpture depicts. They

tourists come to visit the wine tasting fan-

have been championing the “KEEP IT

tasy land that is Napa and Sonoma, yet

LOCAL AND ORGANIC” artisan spirit

rarely venture off the beaten path to the

movement since Spirit Works’ conception

places where locals go to enjoy its incred-

in 2012. The couple met while working

ible bounty.

together with an environmental non-

Tucked away in northwest So-

profit organization aboard ice breakers.

noma County, approximately 52 mi north

With close quarters and small bunks,

of San Francisco, is a quaint town named

the two learned how to handle disagree-

Sebastopol.

With plenty of small-town

ments and maintain a functional work-

charm, Sebastopol is sustained by local

ing relationship while still making room

and regional commerce rather than na-

for

tional tourism.

romance.

Timo,

originally

from

It’s a town that wholly

southern England, grew up in a family

embraces the idea of “grow local, shop

where gin has been the drink of choice

local, consume local,” and it is no great

for generations.

surprise that an area like the Barlow

the West Coast, has always been drawn

District has developed.

to whiskey.

A

completely

revamped

area

Ashby, who hails from

The couple first considered join-

of warehouses showcasing the local ar-

ing forces with an established distillery.

tisans of food, art, wine, and beer, the

The idea was to focus on their specialty

Barlow District allows the creators an

spirit, Sloe Gin, but they were disappoint-

avenue to connect directly with their

ed to discover that many of the potential

consumers.

Following this logical pro-

distilleries would simply import the base

gression, it only stands to reason that

neutral spirits, and then blend the botani-

Sebastopol’s Barlow District would be

cals together before bottling them as their

the perfect place to find one of the few

own. Discouraged by the idea of partner-

local organic grain-to-glass distilleries in

ing with such a process, Timo and Ashby

the state:

The

were determined to create something of

warehouse is easily identifiable by a 10

their very own, inspiring them to take on

foot sculpture of Bandit the Boston ter-

distillation themselves and do it the way

rier riding a surf board, made entirely out

they felt it should be done.

of

4 years traveling to different distilleries,

Spirit Works Distillery.

recycled

material

by

local

They spent

artist Patrick Amiot.

learning and apprenticing under master

distillers, discovering their own identity

Spirit Works Distillery is the

PAGE 72 | MicroShiner.com

and distinctive taste through distillation.

At it’s the infancy, the difficulty

to pour up to 6 products for tasting while

Thus Spirit Works was created.

of opening a distillery wasn’t in the cre-

maintaining the right to sell product on

into

ation, but rather the California rules and

site.

place. Ashby was to be master distill-

regulations. In a state where grape is king,

pursuing the necessary permits and certi-

er, having the natural intuition that no

grain distillers have extra hurdles to jump

fications to begin distilling.

amount of studying could provide. Timo

through in order to take their products

would work on the other aspects of the

to market. Grain distilleries are allowed

cation in an area of Sebastopol’s Bar-

business; recently, he was offered a posi-

to offer tastings of their product on site,

low District that was primed to grow

tion on a panel at the Craft Beer, Spirits

but they are not allowed to sell direct and

into

and Wine Conference held in Santa Rosa,

must instead work through a private dis-

ing that of New York’s SoHo or Miami’s

discussing laws that effect spirit sales

tributor; whereas those who distill brandy

Wynwood. At the time, the Barlow district

in California.

from grapes and other wines are allowed

was being retrofitted to house breweries,

The

roles

naturally

PAGE 78 | MicroShiner.com

fell

However, the couple soldiered on,

In 2012, the couple found a lo-

a

local

specialty

area,

mimick-

Summer 2014 RIGHT > Spirit Worksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Head Distiller Ashby Marshall (right) with her husband & business partner Timo (left) in front of their Carl still.

PAGE 80 | MicroShiner.com

Summer 2014

tasting rooms, art galleries and celebrity

the

restaurants. Hammers in hand, the Mar-

brandy; they only know the Captain Mor-

shalls went to work, and with the help of

gans,” Timo says, raising a leg to strike a

Romy Colombatto, their marketing man-

pose. That need for education has been

ager, renovated the warehouse to meet

the prime objective in offering a full view

the manufacturing needs and began as-

and tours, tutoring the public on the finer

sembling their custom CARL still. The

points of craft distillation.

still was fabricated specifically for the

Spirit Works distillery; built as a hybrid,

the still became operational, and Recipe

it stands 26 feet tall and is the capable of

and Development was underway.

producing vodka, whiskey, and gin.

six months of the still running, the Spirit

Works family finally decided on a recipe

If you were to stand underneath

difference

between

whiskey

and

It was in December 2012 that After

the shadow of the copper tower that is

for their gin that would balance the juni-

the still, you would be able to glance over

per flavor of the traditional dry London gin

your shoulder and see right into the tast-

from Timo’s home in the UK and the mild

ing room window. While drafting the lay-

flavors of its American counterpart, creat-

out of the space, the idea was to give the

ing a self-described “Mid-Atlantic Gin.”

viewer the chance to see Ashby working

her magic on the giant copper still. This

selves, let’s take a step back to the base

design choice was intentional, meant to

spirit of their flag ship gin, to see the care

offer the whole process to the consumer

that goes into the neutral spirit, vodka.

without smoke or mirrors. Enthusiasts

As stated above, the still stands at 26

may also participate in complete tours of

feet tall, one of the tallest in California

the distillery, offered each Friday, Satur-

(to their knowledge), and runs 21 bubble

day, and Sunday, to get an even closer

plates. This allows for distilling their Cali-

look at what goes into the process.

fornia red winter wheat vodka in a single

run, versus multiple runs from other

“[Most consumers] don’t know

PAGE 84 | MicroShiner.com

But before we get ahead of our-

They have been championing the

“KEEP IT LOCAL AND ORGANIC” artisan spirit movement since Spirit Works’ inception

Summer 2014

PAGE 86 | MicroShiner.com

Summer 2014

distilleries. The single run allows the spir-

for this spirit that has led them to what

next big cocktail, and is taking the place

it to maintain some wheat characteristics

he describes as the pinnacle of balance; a

of other, more common additions such as

in its base mash, softening the flavor and

gin where all the flavors work in harmony

sweet vermouth.

taking away the burn that is associated

without one overpowering the others. “If

with the competitors who completely strip

you want to find the coriander, you can.

of the current Spirit Works product line.

the spirit. The vodka at 43% ABV holds

But it isn’t a coriander gin!” While in the

Soon to join the ranks are the highly an-

an almost pure and creamy flavor; these

tasting room, you have the opportunity to

ticipated Wheat Whiskey and Rye. Spirit

qualities are then transferred to the gin as

see each of these flavors. Each individual

Works’ whiskey has been developed with

another aspect in its flavor profile.

botanical is set out on the table for the

the same standard of quality and focus,

Spirit Works Gin is not a back

taster to see, smell and feel, creating a

keeping it organic and local. With a whis-

blended spirit. Rather, it is a completely

more vibrant tasting experience, and al-

key waitlist already in place, the peppery

original flavor, one that can’t be replicat-

lowing for a more specific flavor profile.

Rye and sweeter Wheat Whiskey, created

ed due to the in-house manufacturing of

Which brings us to Spirit Works’

from organic Northern California red win-

their base spirit. With the characteristics

Sloe Gin, known as a traditional British

ter wheat, are currently resting in charred

of the vodka binding with the flavors of the

digestif; it is a sweet maceration of sloe

oak barrels and should be ready to drink

orris root, the gin is a balance of dry pine

berries in the already remarkable gin.

in 2015.

flavor from the juniper and a sweet floral

With uses from fabric dye to jam, sloe ber-

compliment, flawlessly derived from eight

ries are readily available in the UK but

little distillery that could, as it builds on

choice botanicals. Each botanical has its

more difficult to source here in the US,

the momentum of a strong regional fan

own boiling point, and over the 6 months

because of their invasive nature; the blue

base and community support. In crafting

of flavor development, Ashby was able to

berry sized fruit is a relative of the plum.

their own distinct vision, and remaining

determine the point of best performance

Timo grew up foraging for these berries

committed to the key tenets of local and

for each. The spiced aspect of the gin is

in his neighborhood and now is import-

organic production, Spirit Works has po-

due to the use of cardamom and corian-

ing them in larger quantities to create his

sitioned itself at the forefront of Califor-

der. The angelica, orris root and iris are

comfort food. It begins with Spirit Works’

nia’s evolving spirit landscape, adding yet

responsible for the grassy, earthy notes.

handcrafted gin; they then add whole sloe

another notable stop to Sonoma County’s

The lemon is zested the day of production,

berries and cane sugar to allow for direct

already impressive epicurean roadmap.

adding a fresh citrus flavor. A hint of hi-

maceration in creating the sweet liqueur,

biscus can also be tasted, softening the

a recipe that has been in Timo’s family

final product.

for generations.

When asked why so much focus

This unique flavor combination

on the spirit gin, Timo replies: “I love it.

is in high demand, particularly with local

I’m obsessed with gin.” It’s his passion

bartenders who are looking to create the

PAGE 88 | MicroShiner.com

These three spirits are the heart

The future looks bright for this

Find them at www.spiritworks.com

Summer 2014

This meal was prepared

by Bob and Beth Fischer, around a bottle of Whistling Andyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hopschnop.

The meal consisted of three courses: pork belly and panko potatoes; halibut and rice; and cheesecake.

Our first two courses were served with Hopschnop neat, accompanied by a bottle of red wine during the second course.

For dessert, we retired to the Fischerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farmhouse to watch the World Cup. We enjoyed an after dinner cocktail then cheesecake was served with a warm sweet drink.

Bob and Beth Fischer work, play, and eat well in Hamilton, Montana.

PAGE 90 | MicroShiner.com |

Summer 2014

Pairings: WHISTLING ANDY HOPSCHNOP

Photos by Beth Fischer

BALSAMIC GLAZED PORK BELLY Ingredients 1 lb

PORK BELLY

1 Cup

BALSAMIC VINEGAR

2 Teaspoons

SOY SAUCE

1 Clove

GARLIC

PAGE 92 | MicroShiner.com |

Summer 2014

Directions

1.

2.

3.

4.

Cut pork belly into 1” x 1” x 3” cubes.

Combine other 3 ingredients. Simmer on low for 10 min in a heavy frying pan.

Add pork belly and continue to simmer.

Cook pork for about 5 minutes on each side. Be careful not to let the vinegar mixture burn or caramelize completely.

WASABI-DUSTED PANKO POTATOES

PAGE 94 | MicroShiner.com |

Summer 2014

Ingredients 6

POTATOES

1 Cup

FLOUR

1 Teaspoon

WASABI POWDER

To Taste

SALT and PEPPER

1

EGG

1 Cup

PANKO BREADCRUMBS

As Needed

OIL for frying

Directions

1.

Parboil the potatoes until

4.

Dredge the potato cubes

just soft enough to pierce

in the flower, dip into the

them with a fork.

beaten egg then coat with

2.

Drain, cool and cut the potatoes into 1” X 1” X 3”

3.

cubes.

Mix the flour, wasabi powder, salt and pepper in a bowl. In another bowl beat the egg. Have the Panko breadcrumbs in a third bowl.

breadcrumbs.

5.

Fry in 2” of hot oil until golden brown.

WOOLY BUGGER Ingredients 2 Jiggers

WHISTLING ANDY HOPSCHNOP

1 Jigger

SPICED RUM

1 Teaspoon

TAMARIND SIMPLE SYRUP

Garnish

MARASCHINO CHERRY

Directions

1.

Mix the Hopschnop and simple syrup in a microwave safe container and microwave for 30 sec

2.

to get it warm.

Drizzle the molasses into a cocktail glass, pour in the warmed Hopschnop and simple syrup and top with milk foam.

3.

Garnish with a cinnamon stick.

PAGE 96 | MicroShiner.com |

Summer 2014

TAMARIND SIMPLE SYRUP Ingredients 1 Cup

WATER

1 Cup

SPICED RUM

1 Tablespoon

TAMARIND PASTE

Directions

1.

In a small sauce pan combine the water and sugar and heat until it starts to boil.

2.

Turn down the heat to a slow simmer and add the tamarind paste.

3.

Allow to simmer for about 15 minutes then strain into a jar and cool.

HALIBUT WITH PLUM GLAZE We had the luxury of halibut brought direct from Alaska, courtesy of one of the dinner guests. Grill using charcoal, if possible, along with your favorite variety of smoking chips.

Ingredients 2 lbs

HALIBUT FILLETS, with skin on one side

2

BLACK PLUMS, large & ripe

1 Cup

DRY WHITE WINE

1/2 Cup

GINGER BEER

1 Tablespoon

SOY SAUCE

1 Clove

GARLIC, pressed

PAGE 98 | MicroShiner.com |

Summer 2014

Directions

1.

In a heavy sauce pan simmer the cut up plums in the white wine for 10 minutes. Press the plum and wine mixture through

4.

Add a handful of soaked wood chips to the coals and

a sieve to remove the skins

bring the coals as close

and pulp. Return the liquid

to the grilling surface as

to the sauce pan and add

possible.

the garlic and ginger beer.

Simmer 10 min and add the

2.

3.

soy sauce.

In the meantime coat the

5.

Place the fillets on the grill skin-side down and close

skin side of the halibut

the grill. Cook for 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 7

with hazelnut oil and cut

min then remove the fish

into 6 serving sized pieces.

from the grill and serve.

When the sauce has thickened, brush the flesh side of the fillet with a coat of sauce. Let rest 5 min and repeat with a second coating of sauce.

MIXED AND WILD RICE Serve the fish and rice with miso paste, steamed baby bok choy and or asparagus.

PAGE 100 | MicroShiner.com |

Summer 2014

Ingredients 1 Cup

MIXED and WILD RICE

1 Bunch

GREEN ONIONS, green and white parts, sliced

1 Teaspoon

GINGER, minced

½

RED PEPPER, finely diced

1 Clove

GARLIC, minced

1 Tablespoon

PEANUT OIL

1 Tablespoon

RICE WINE VINEGAR

1 ½ Teaspoon

MIRIN

Directions

1.

In a medium sauce pan

3.

Cover the pan and bring

briefly sauté the ginger,

the water to a boil then

garlic and the white part

turn down the heat until

of the green onion in

you achieve a low simmer.

the peanut oil, about 1

2.

minute.

Add the red pepper and rice, give it a quick stir before adding water to the pan until it rises ½ inch above the level of the rice.

5.

When the rice is done fold in the green part of the green onion, mirin and rice vinegar.

4.

Simmer for 20 minutes or until the rice is done.

GRANDMAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOLASSES COOKIE Ingredients 2 Jiggers

WHISTLING ANDY HOPSCHNOP

2 Jiggers

EXTRA GINGER SIMPLE SYRUP

1 Teaspoon

BLACKSTRAP MOLASSAS

As Needed

MILK FOAM

Directions

1.

Mix the Hopschnop and simple syrup in a microwave safe container and microwave for 30 sec

2.

to get it warm.

Drizzle the molasses into a cocktail glass, pour in the warmed Hopschnop and simple syrup and top with milk foam.

3.

Garnish with a cinnamon stick.

PAGE 102 | MicroShiner.com |

Summer 2014

EXTRA GINGER SIMPLE SYRUP Ingredients 1 Cup

WATER

1 Cup

SUGAR

1 Cup

GINGER, freshly sliced

1 Whole

VANILLA BEAN

Directions

1.

In a small sauce pan combine the water and sugar and heat until it starts to boil. Turn down the heat to a slow simmer

2.

and add the ginger.

Add the vanilla bean by slicing it lengthwise and scraping the seeds into the sugar water then adding the rest of the pod.

3.

Allow to simmer for about 15 minutes then strain into a jar and cool.

Life. Distilled.

Going to the Sun Highway Glacier National Park, Montana USA McCollum Custom Longboards

ISLAND DISTILLERS Written by

Photos by

Misty Cordeiro

Brian Cary

O

n the tropical island of Oahu sits

Island Distillers, a single-still, vodka and

Hawaiian

moonshine

distillery.

Dave Flintstone, the owner, distiller, and mastermind operation

is

behind

this

originally

small-batch

from

Florida.

He has lived in Hawaii, off and on, since the late 1980’s - making him no stranger to the island lifestyle. He is dressed in board shorts and slippers (known as

flip-flops

welcomes

us

to and

Mainlanders). jokingly

Dave

remarks,

“You’re lucky I put on a shirt today.”

PAGE 108 | MicroShiner.com

Summer 2014

His easy-going, fun nature al-

limited parking and his irregular hours,

Not one to let reality inhibit his dreams,

ready shines through, despite the ear-

he turns away requests for tastings and

Dave excitedly fantasizes about farming

ly start of our 8:00 a.m. meeting. As Ha-

tours. Currently, Island Distillers’ prod-

his own ingredients and planting fruit

waiian music plays in the background,

ucts are distributed only in Hawaii; how-

trees to make brandies.

he explains that his one-man army will

ever, their spirits may be purchased on-

expand in a couple hours. He has two em-

line from the company’s Facebook page.

land at this point seems unlikely, Dave is

ployees coming to help bottle a batch of

He relishes the idea of operat-

planning to relocate his operation into the

coconut vodka.

ing on agricultural land, but laments

Hawaii Kai area. The new location will op-

Although obtaining agricultural

We move into the center of the

the price of living in paradise, “It would

erate on solar power and feature a much-

space, and Dave excitedly points out his

be nice if I could locate on ag(ricultural)

anticipated tasting room. He also plans

water filtration system. “People say ‘what

land, but of course land on the islands is

to expand his product line. He has four

kind of water do you use? Where is your

expensive and owned by large families.”

rums planned for future release: a dark

water from?’” Answering his own proposed question, he jokes, “It comes from the sky, where does everyone’s water come from?”

He continues explaining that

the majority of water on the islands is from aquifers. In order for the water to be moved through the pipes, chlorine is added. The first step in his process is to remove the chlorine. Other minerals are then stripped out before softening the water.

Within the small space of the

distillery there is no real division, instantly drawing your eye to the copper still sitting just off center. Dave obtained the “standard little pot” several years ago from Portugal; and though the bond with his current still is unbreakable because of the nostalgia, you can sense his enthusiasm as he talks about the three new and highly anticipated stills. Two are en-route while the third is currently being fabricated in Europe. He spent over a year designing and developing the third one.

Recirculating coolant, batch continuous, electric, energy efficient, and computerized are all descriptors for its exciting new features. Dave’s concluding sentiments: “its way cool!” With new siblings on the way, one need not fear for the “standard little pot.” It won’t enter retirement, but will be used for small-batch productions such as fruit brandies.

Dave does all the fermenting and

distilling at his current location. “I have a pretty small operation and a small volume. I sell everything I make, but I don’t make that much.” Though “very compact,” Dave makes good use of this space, storing his finished product in another warehouse. Unfortunately, because of

PAGE 110 | MicroShiner.com

Summer 2014

It is the quality of life, not the quantity of life. In Hawaii, that is important - the quality of life here. We do not have the general rat race like the mainland. It is not what you do for a living here, it’s the living that you do that’s important.

Workers on the bottling line at the Island Distillers prodcution faciility.

rum, white rum, spiced rum, and an old

nut, Dave toyed with pineapple and lilikoi

Cajun rum. “I’m very excited about the

(passion fruit) flavors. The task proved

rums, because I really like rum. I really

difficult. The color and taste would slow-

like the packaging for it, too.”

ly decline, and while they all tasted “so

The labels and packaging for all

good,” ultimately Dave could not obtain

his products have been a labor of love.

shelf stability. Once he moves to the new

With help from local graphic artists and

location, however, he hopes to produce

countless hours of time, Dave perfected

these flavors in small batches for immedi-

his signature looks. Though not officially

ate consumption - fresh from the still.

on the market, his white rum boasts the

longest-worded liquor label in the world.

tillers’ three spirits is the Okolehao (pro-

He laughs as he predicts a scenario, “I re-

nounced o-ko-lay-how). Dave attributes

ally like this because it makes me chuckle

much of its success to its unique compo-

every time I see it. I can just picture peo-

sition. The two main ingredients are ti root

ple looking at it in the stores. ‘Honey, hum

and sugar cane. Dave imports his ti root

ma na hum ma na. Let’s get the hum ma

from the Big Island. Ti plant roots, which

na rum!” Unfortunately, none of the pro-

can range from ten to fifteen pounds per

posed rum was available to sample. Dave

plant, are then shredded for the process.

playfully disclosed, “I drank all of the rum

that I had.”

for about four years. It is where he devel-

The best seller among Island Dis-

Dave called the Big Island home

Island Distillers currently has

oped the lava filtration system he uses for

three spirits on the market - all distilled

his spirits. It took several attempts before

from sugar cane: a straight vodka, a co-

he finally locked down the process, but

conut vodka, and an Okolehao, which is

the time invested was well worth it. “I fig-

also known as Hawaiian moonshine. The

ured out a way to get away from granular

coconut vodka uses the straight vodka as

activated carbon that everyone else uses,”

its base and is blended down from 40%

he gleams. ‘Okole’ is the Hawaiian word

to 35% to allow the coconut flavor to

for butt and ‘hao’ means iron. These two

come through. When pressed as to how

words may seem an unlikely pair, but “the

the coconut flavoring is achieved, Dave

myth goes, that it was named after old

drops his exuberance to a serious tone.

whaling ships... whether they are refer-

“Very, very carefully,” he says. “It took

ring to the bottom of the pot or to what

about a year and a half to get the flavor

two pots, side-by-side look like... Hawai-

that I wanted. I wanted a nice, fresh co-

ians back then were very big on word play,

conut flavor - not this horrible candied

and especially in referencing parts of the

type thing that I tasted everywhere.” Dave

body. So, it’s probably true.”

collected local coconuts to conduct ex-

periments, and eventually developed an

digenous distilled spirit from Hawaii. An

extract. He describes it as an essential oil

English sailor first recorded its existence

process, which embodies the aromas and

during the 1770’s. After seeing the Ha-

flavors perfectly, and then is blended into

waiians bake ti root, the sailor realized it

his vodka.

could be fermented to make beer. Relat-

He quickly realized the need for

ing the story, Flintstone laughs as he con-

larger quantities of both extract and co-

siders this bit of history, “The Hawaiian’s

conuts. Hawaii does not commercially

never had an alcoholic beverage? How can

produce the fruit, as most of the coconuts

this be possible with all the fruit around?

come from either Thailand or the Philip-

Very odd.” As implausible as it may seem,

RIGHT pines. >Dave contracted with a mainland

the story continues that twenty years lat-

company to replicate his extract formula

er an Australian introduced the distilla-

on a large scale. After three attempts, it

tion process and Okolehao was born. With

was finally successful.

moonshine’s growth in popularity over the

Originally,

he

wanted

Okolehao is the only known in-

more

last few years, Dave only wishes he could

tropical flavors and in addition to coco-

have been ahead of the curve. “It took a

while to figure out what I think it would have tasted like back then and to perfect it. Now, I think I got it. It’s fantastic.”

The idea of opening a distillery

came about 14 years ago. Dave had been living on Maui, but frequently found work in the Caribbean, where a love for quality spirits sparked while sipping Barbancourt Rhum in Haiti. Despite having tended bar for a number of years before what he terms the “cocktail renaissance,” he had never tasted such good rum, served on ice with only a squeeze of lime. Working for a cruise company as a certified dive instructor, the ships only came into port twice a week - leaving him with a lot of free time on his hands. Dave traveled to little towns learning about the distillation process: “I found all these distillers. Sometimes just a dude in a shack. Some a little bit bigger. They were making what they call ‘clairin,’ which is a moonshine product; some selling high strength up to 180 proof and some blending it down to 40 or 50.” It was akin to an unpaid internship; which did not bother him in his pursuit of learning the trade. From going out with his machete to chop down sugar cane or watching farm animals walk in circles to crush product.

It was years later that his idea

to open a distillery came to fruition. Dave was in the construction business and building houses on the Big Island when the housing market crashed. He knew it was time to pursue the dream lingering in the back of his mind. His first choice for opening a distillery in Hawaii was Maui the island he had lived on the longest. “I knew how to make everything, that was the easy part. The hard part was traversing the bureaucracy.” Meeting with little success on Maui, he made one phone call to Oahu and was a plane the next day to start his distillery.

After about a year and a half,

Dave’s dream finally materialized. During his recollections he laughs, “I was broke for a long time. It was ridiculous. So many costly errors. Like everyone says, ‘If I knew then, what I know now’.”

After “talking story” (the Hawai-

ian-islands’ tradition of sharing stories),

PAGE 114 | MicroShiner.com

Summer 2014 coconut flavored spirit I have ever tasted.

Sipping it immediately transports one to a tropical island. The accompanying cocktail Dave whipped up is the HawaiianColada, consisting of coconut vodka and pineapple juice. He takes a swig and concludes, “Very simple. Very tasty.” It is the truth. The recipe may be simple, but it is delicious.

While the unique taste of the

Okolehao is a worthy contender, my heart favors the scrumptious coconut vodka.

As we sat sipping various cocktails and Dave led us over to his handmade bar and

straight liquors, Dave entertained us with

the awaiting spirits, explaining; “I wanted

animated responses to typical questions

to make a vodka that was smooth enough

he has encountered: “People ask, how

to drink at room temperature in Hawaii.”

many times do you distill? Well, how many

Starting with the 80 proof vodka, he test-

times do you shower a day? What differ-

ed his vodka, many times, against com-

ence does it make? Then they talk about

petitors. He laughs as he recalls peoples’

how many times it was filtered. Couldn’t

reactions during taste testing. “Tasting

you do it right the first couple of times?

vodka is an odd thing because very few

It took you nine times! And then you get

people drink straight vodka.” His ultimate

the weird ones... 22...25... Ok, whatever

goal was to beat Tito’s, a small-batch pot-

works for you.”

distilled vodka from Texas. “When I con-

sistently had my vodka chosen over Tito’s,

two bottlers walk through the door. While

I knew I had finished.”

we continued our tastings, Dave joined

Next, we tasted the much-antici-

them in the bottling process. Forming

pated Okolehao. Dave describes the taste

a mini-assembly line in the corner, he

as “surprisingly smooth.” Proofed at 100,

manned the heat gun at the end of the line

I would have to agree. Both the aroma and

- sealing each bottle before packing and

taste contain floral notes reminiscent of

taping the boxes. Case after case stacked

the flowers one finds on the Islands and

up. It takes about eight hours to bottle

the tropical flavors that make this region

the 550 gallons or 230 cases of coconut

unique. Its taste is complex - like a gin,

vodka. Dave periodically stepped away to

yet finishes like a softer, sweet sipping,

check on us. Each time, he slid behind

rum. With such distinct characteristics, it

the bar and quickly concocted a different

is a spirit unlike any other.

specialty drink for us to try before hurry-

ing back to his end of the assembly line.

As Dave shows us the beautiful

At ten o’clock on the dot, Dave’s

Okolehao bottle, he jestingly mentions,

“I put the ingredients and recipe on the

ha. His passion for distilling liquor and

back of the bottle.” A turn of the bottle re-

his love for the islands is quite evident in

veals several lines of text, all in Hawaiian.

his final thoughts: “People ask me all the

He smiles, “not really, it’s just a little sto-

time, what’s your exit strategy?” There is

ry.” A neck hanger on the bottle provides

no exit until I can no longer make [the li-

a translation, along with several signature

quor]. It is the quality of life not the quan-

cocktail recipes. His favorite drink using

tity of life. In Hawaii, that is important

the moonshine is called Hawaiian soda,

- the quality of life here. We do not have

which is a simple twist on the classic vod-

the general rat race like the mainland. It

ka soda. “Lime, soda, and moonshine,” he

is not what you do for a living here, it’s

proclaims. “I like it so much.”

the living that you do that’s important.

The coconut vodka is bottled at

And as long as I can live here and enjoy

70 proof and embodies a wonderful fla-

myself and make something other people

vor. It is the most natural and authentic

enjoy as much as I do, it’s great.”

Dave embodies the spirit of Alo-

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