N S Harsha N S 哈夏
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H i s t o r y o f Co t t o n Pr o d u c t i o n and Industr y in India 印度棉花 產 業 歷 史
Chan Shun Hin, David Curatorial Assistant, Exhibitions and Collections Centre for Heritage, Arts and Textile 陳信騫
展覽及館藏策展助理 六廠紡織文化藝術館
Circa 3200 BCE 公元前約 3200 年 First cotton cultivation in the Indus Valley. 在印度河流域首次記有棉花種植。
350 BCE 公元前 350 年
Theophrastus describes Indian cotton cultivation in his botanical work. 泰奧弗拉斯托斯在他的植物學著作中描述了印度棉花種植。
1st century 1 世紀
India 印度
Key Events Outside India
印度外的重要事件
Indian cotton is recorded in Periplus Maris Erythraei, a trading guide for Greek-speaking merchants. 在一本寫予希臘語商人的貿易指南《厄立特利亞海航行記》中記錄了印度 棉花。
Early period 早期 600 BCE 公元前 600 年
Cotton starts to be traded in Mesopotamia (today Iraq). 在美索不達米亞（即現在伊拉克），棉花交易開始。
800 – 1000 Cotton is cultivated in China, the Middle East and Africa. 棉花在中國、中東和非洲種植。
The latter half of the 12th century 12 世紀後半葉
Cities in northern Italy become dominant producers in the cotton industry in Europe for the next three centuries with the introduction of the spinning wheel which has enhanced its production. 意大利北部的城市受惠於紡車的引入，提高了生產力，在往後的三個世紀成 為歐洲棉花產業的主要產地。
Historians suggest the spinning wheel (charkha) is introduced from China and then from West Asia to northern India. 歷史學家認為紡車（charkha）從中國引進，然後從西亞引入印 度北部。
14th century 14世紀 Mid-14th century 14 世紀中葉
Southern Germany emerges as another cotton manufacturing centre in Europe. 德國南部成為歐洲另一個棉花製造中心。
History of Cotton Production and Industry in India 印度棉花產業歷史
From the first half of the 17th Century 從 17 世紀 1498 Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama voyages to Calicut via sea route, through sea route from Europe to India around the Cape of Good Hope. 葡萄牙探險家華士古．達嘉馬繞過好望角，從歐洲航海 到印度的卡利卡特。
16th Century 16 世紀
Portugal first establishes trade linkages with India, followed by Dutch and British merchants. 葡萄牙人首先在印度建立了貿易關係，接著是荷蘭和英 國商人。
15th and 16th century 15 及 16 世紀
European merchants rely on local traders (Banias) for sufficient supply of products from indigenous weavers, who have comparatively high autonomy by having the right to choose how to sell. 歐洲商人依靠當地貿易商（巴尼亞人）採購數量合理的產品；原 生地的編織者有權選擇銷售方式，擁有相對較高的自主權。 Indian cotton textiles are used by Europeans as payment to African rulers and merchants in the slave trade, exchanging slaves for valuable crops such as sugar cane and tobacco for European settlers in American to plant. 歐洲人使用印度棉紡織品作為奴隸貿易的一部分以支付予非洲統 治者和商人，為在美國的歐洲殖民者換取奴隸以種植有價值的作 物，如甘蔗和煙草。
17th century 17 世紀
1757 British victory of the Battle of Plassey and seizure of Bengal. 英國在普拉西戰役取得勝利，奪取了孟加拉的控制權。
Middle of the 18th century 18 世紀中葉
EIC sidesteps the Banias and directly controls the Indian weavers using political and even coercive powers. 東印度公司繞過巴尼亞人並使用政治手段甚至武力直接控制了印度編 織者。
1784 The East India Company Act is imposed with the establishment of the Board of Control from the British government. 英國政府隨著成立管理委員會實施《東印度公司法》。
18th century: Industrial Revolution 18 世紀：工業革命
1600
1733
Establishment of the British East India Company (EIC); mainly trading cotton clothes made in India. 英國東印度公司成立；主要進行印度製造之棉質成衣貿易。
John Kay from Lancashire invents the Flying Shuttle, which accelerates the weaving process. 蘭開夏人約翰．凱發明了「飛梭」，加快了編織過程。
1630s 年代
1764
Planters in the West Indies and South America start to grow small quantities of cotton with the integration of slave trading. 西印度群島和南美洲的種植者開始種植少量棉花，合併於奴隸 貿易。
17th century 17 世紀
There are cotton cloth productions by Flemish religious refugees in England, especially in Lancashire, which is close to Liverpool – the entrepôt for African slaves and crops from America. 法蘭德斯宗教難民在英格蘭特別是蘭開夏郡生產棉織品，因它靠 近非洲奴隸和美國農作物的中轉港利物浦。
From latter half of the 17th century to late 18th century 從 17 世紀後半葉到 18 世紀末
France, Spain, Prussia, Italy and England issue tariff and partial or total ban on cotton clothes imported from India due to protectionist measures. 法國、西班牙、普魯士、意大利和英國就保護主義而對印度進口 棉成衣徵收關稅和實施部分或完全禁令。
James Hargreaves invents the Spinning Jenny in Lancashire, enhancing the productivity of yarn. 占士．哈格里夫在蘭開夏郡發明了「珍妮紡紗機」 ，提升了紗線的生產力。
1771 Richard Arkwright sets up Cromford Mill in Derbyshire, England, a water-powered factory using his invention, the Water Frame. 李察．阿克萊特在英格蘭德比郡克羅姆福德建立了一間使用他的發明「水 力紡紗機」的水力工廠。
1793 American inventor Eli Whitney devises Cotton Gin, significantly increasing the production of cotton from the USA to Britain. 美國發明家伊萊．惠特尼設計了「軋棉機」，大幅增加從美國到英國的棉 花產量。
1790s 年代
The rate of US cotton production arises rapidly which is accompanied by the increase in slave population in South Carolina and Georgia. 隨著南卡羅來納州和佐治亞州的奴隸人口增加，美國棉花產量亦迅速遞升。
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Installation View 展覽場地
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Artworks 作品
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15 Astral travel over the dyeing yard of Blues 《在藍染場的星際旅行》 2012 80 × 50 cm Acrylic on canvas Collection of Rudy Tseng 80 × 50 厘米 塑膠彩布本 Rudy Tseng 藏品
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Artworks 作品
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15 — close up 局部
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30 Ascent or Descent to Realit y 《上移或下降至現實》 2019 188 × 165 × 48 cm Bamboo, cloth, iron, wooden clips, acrylic colour and steel strings 188 × 165 × 48 厘米 竹、布、鐵、木夾、塑膠彩及鋼索
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Artworks 作品
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30 — close up 局部