The Clothes of the Wind

The Clothes of the

Wind Lee Young Hee And Hanbok Design

Seungmin Song The Clothes of The Wind

1

The Clothes of the

Wind Lee Young Hee And Hanbok Design

Seungmin Song

The Clothes of The Wind

1

Contents

Part One 04 Korean traditional clothes, Hanbok 06

1. What is Hanbok

12

2. Configuration of Hanbok

Part Two 20 Clothes of the Wind 22

1. Hanbok Designer, Lee Young Hee

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2. Revival of a Lost Art

Part Three 38 Harmony of Classic and Modern 40

1. History of Hanbok

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2. Modern Touch in Hanbok

The Clothes of The Wind

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Part One

Korean Traditional Clothes

Hanbok

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Chapter

1

What is Hanbok

Hanbok is a Koran tradittional clothes that contains the style and spirit of ideas, customs, actions, forms, and techniques handed down from ancient times.

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Smart Clothes, Hanbok

The basics of Hanbok are straight lines and slight curves, and the lines of clothes are beautiful.

Especially for women's clothes, the jeogori and skirt are thick and thick, so the attire is neat and compact. The atmosphere of the clothes in the clothes exudes a detached style that is imbued with an oriental life ethic.

There is a distinction between formal and casual clothes, and underwear and formal wear follow. It is also divided into men's and women's, adults and children's, and by season.

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Beauty of Hanbok

Harmony of straight lines and curvesr Hanbok is the traditional clothing of our people. The straight lines and curves harmonize and the lines of the clothes are very beautiful.

In addition, it is good because the body is wide enough that it does not tighten the body and covers the flaws of the body. However, the neck, sleeves, and trousers are narrower than the other parts.

Because hanbok breathes well, men wore socks1) in winter and tied the ends of their trousers with a daenim2) to block the wind. In summer, they loosened up and wore

Meaning of color Women wore different colors before and after marriage. Children and unmarried women wore dahong skirts and saekdong jeogori or yellow jeogori. And the newly married Saeksi wore a pink skirt and a yellow jeogori, and after that, they wore a navy blue skirt and a jade jeogori.

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Chapter

2

Configuration of Hanbok Hanbok is a Koran tradittional clothes that contains the style and spirit of ideas, customs, actions, forms, and techniques handed down from ancient times.

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Men's Hanbok Men's clothes for adults: As robes, the clothes worn for gilrye and garye were different, and the clothes worn for sangrye and rites were different. For example, in Gilrye, a coat, jungchimak, and durumagi were worn and a cap was worn, and in Garye, a danryeongbok with a breastplate and a gakdae was worn. In the rite, a white coat or robe was worn and a gat was worn, and there was a separate mourning robe according to it. For everyday wear, he wore trousers, jeogori, vest, and magoja, and in summer he wore red ginseng and a single vest. A cap or a crown was also worn on the scroll.

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Women's Hanbok Hoejang

The part of middle to end of arm

Somea Buri

End of arm of Jeogori

Berea

The sagging under-part of a coat arm running from the armpit to the sleeve

Goreum Strips attached to a jeogori or durumagi, traditional Korean upper garments, to fasten both ends of its collar together.

Chima Juream Skirt winkle

Chima Huri Skirt waist

Dongjeong Thin white cloth-covered paper collar for Korean traditional clothes

Git

A neckband

Sup Doryun

The outer collar of a coat

Round shape under Jeogori

Women's clothes for adults: There are Soryebok and Daeryebok as ceremonial clothes, and there are mourning clothes according to the ceremonial clothes. Soryebok wore a wreath or jokduri on a green danggi, and ceremonial robes wore a wreath or jokduri on a scarlet bow or green ginseng.

The jeogori is a three-way jang jeogori, and the skirt is a suranchima or a large chima. At this time, the jeogori consisted of three pieces such as Sokjeoksam, Sokjeogori, and Outer jeogori, and the skirt was worn inside to add volume to the outer skirt, and sometimes even a Daeshum skirt.

Mugigi supported the waist, and the Daeshum skirt supported the lower part of the skirt.

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Customary Clothing of Hanbok

First Brithday

Children who celebrate their first birthday have a greater chance of living until they reach adulthood,

Coming of age

Ceremony Similar to the men's custom (combing hair, putting on a topcoat, and wearing a cap), it is a ceremony in which braids are untied and braids are inserted.

Wedding Ceremony

weddings were carried out. was considered the most auspicious, and ordinary people were allowed to wear court robes only on the day of the wedding.

Funeral

On the 4th day after death, the master, housewife, and wealthy person wear the Seongbok, and the linen and hemp used according to the five suits are different, and the construction is done.

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Part Two

Clothes of the Wind

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Chapter

1

Hanbok Designer, Lee Young Hee After living as a full-time housewife, Lee Young-hee started her career as a designer at the age of forty.

She has been working hard for the modernization and globalization of 'hanbok' throughout her life. In 1993, the first Korean designer to participate in the Paris Pret-a-Porter, fashion performance at Carnegie Hall in New York in 2000, a museum in Manhattan, New York in 2004, permanent exhibition of 12 hanbok at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington in 2007, Google's 'World's 60 Artists' in 2008 The first step he took, such as being selected for ' and performing on the Paris haute couture stage for the first time in hanbok in 2010, became a path.

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From Housewife To Designer

Young-hee Lee, a hanbok designer who grew up naturally aware of the beauty of hanbok, under her mother, who was so skilled and dedicated to making hanboks by hand dyeing them at home. From her childhood, she developed her eyes and design sense from her mother, who had a great sense of color.

Raising three children and living as an ordinary housewife, she chose even one child's clothes to wear with beautiful and unique clothes.

When I started a quilt business, I became a businessman rather than a housewife. She made up her own clothes because of the scraps of fabric that were thrown away, and eventually, at the age of forty, she started wearing hanbok in earnest, and her long journey with hanbok began. It was not only because of the sensations she had naturally acquired as a child. She read books at random, went to graduate school at a belated age and learned the craft of weaving, and visited the late Dr. Seok Joo-seon, a traditional clothing scholar, to learn traditional hanbok. chopped As rumors spread that she makes unique and beautiful hanbok, Lee Young-hee's hanbok became famous day by day, and she begins to dream of her new dream. She wanted to publicize the beauty of hanbok, so she held a fashion show with hanbok. She said, “Those who used to criticize me for doing a fashion show with hanbok turned into compliments when I saw myself making new hanboks while doing fashion shows several times a year.

Gradually, people started calling me a hanbok designer. Where did this courage and recklessness come from? Because I believed in the beauty of hanbok, I just wanted to let the world know about it.”

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It's never too late to start something. There is only a late ‘heart’ – Lee, Young Hee

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Chapter

2

Revival of a Lost Art Seoul in autumn speaks to one’s spirit, with the refreshing beauty of its gentle sun-kissed shades married with the golden hues of fallen leaves. It’s no wonder the world’s most famous Korean designer draws inspiration from her surroundings.

Lee Young-hee, the trendy traditional designer influencing the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, says her ancestors took traditional Korean clothing (hanbok) as true art, with natural colours as their signature brush strokes.

Wearing one of her own magentahued hanbok dresses, Young-hee approaches me, as apologetic as energetic. She thinks she’s kept me waiting too long, but watching this spirited 80-year-old wrap up her 40thanniversary hanbok exhibition was a gift in itself.

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Lee Young-hee, the trendy traditional designer influencing the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, says her ancestors took traditional Korean clothing (hanbok) as true art, with natural colours as their signature brush strokes.

Wearing one of her own magentahued hanbok dresses, Young-hee approaches me, as apologetic as energetic. She thinks she’s kept me waiting too long, but watching this spirited 80-year-old wrap up her 40thanniversary hanbok exhibition was a gift in itself.

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No Loss, No Gain

Before Young-hee could even begin to revive and reinvent hanbok, she wrestled with the most basic piece of the puzzle — the fabric. Typically, in countries with a thriving fashion industry, a wide range of textiles would be available.

But four decades ago, when she started, South Korea’s fashion boom was yet to come, making sophisticated fabrics a scarcity for Young-hee.

A problem-solving entrepreneur at heart, Younghee found solutions in ancient Korean tradecraft that had been all but forgotten. Old-world weaving techniques, exquisite paintings applied directly to the cloth, layered embroidery and brilliant sheen dyeing were among the ways she beautified the fabrics.

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Intertwined with the revival of her lost heritage was the reawakening of the quintessential Korean spirit behind the design — regal elegance, virtuous grace, harmonizing beauty.

But the visionary still beckoned for more — a better fabric.

Her search led her to organza, a thin, translucent fabric made from silk, usually used for bridal and evening wear. Adding two layers of lining inside the organza and dyeing each layer of fabric a different colour conjured a unique multidimensional richness when overlapped.

But with organza’s delicate nature and loosely woven fibers, the sewing stitch was too easily loosened.

Again, Young-hee saw opportunity in opposition. In her research, she discovered a traditional Korean sewing method, stitching the edges three times. The extra craftwork added hours to each dress and ballooned the cost.

While to some, art and economics become a balancing act, Younghee stayed true to traditions by remembering what the ancients would have done. Realizing that beauty is an endless pursuit of perfection, she ignored the higher price tag. But just when she thought she’d found a fabric that would enable her creativity to take form, her marketers revealed another flaw — due to its light weight, it could only be seasonal.

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Clothes of The Winds

One of Lee’s signature works is “Clothes of Wind" which thrust her into the global limelight after it was revealed to the public at the prêtà-porter show in Paris in 1993. The dresses are all without their upper jackets, called jeogori.

Although the design garnered rave reviews across France, like, “It has the most modern, and at the same time, the most Korean of looks,” and, “It’s a combination of freedom and elegance as if it embraces wind all over,” it was denounced here at home as “an ambiguous garment of no nationality and no traditionalism.”

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Part Two

Harmony of

Classic and

Modern

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Chapter

1

History of Hanbok Hanbok is a Koran tradittional clothes that contains the style and spirit of ideas, customs, actions, forms, and techniques handed down from ancient times.

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From Gogureo To Josean

The women hanbok experienced the most obvious changes. The general change in design is that the jeogori got shorter while the chima got higher.

The history of the hanbok can be traced back to almost 1600 years ago during the Goguryeo era.

The long jeogori was worn over the chima, and a belt was worn at the waist.

During the Goryeo Dynasty, the princesses from Mongol who married into Korea brought along Mongol fashion with them. As a result the jeogori of many outfits got shorter and end near the waist.

It was also tied at the chest. The chima was also shortened, and sleeves curved a little.

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Timeline of Hanbok

9th-10th Century

Silla

4th-7th Century

Goguryeo

11th-14th Ce

Goryeo

14th-16th Century

Ealry Joseon

entury 17th-19th Century

Late Joseon The Clothes of The Wind

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During the Goryeo Dynasty, the princesses from Mongol who married into Korea brought along Mongol fashion with them. As a result the jeogori of many outfits got shorter and end near the waist.

It was also tied at the chest. The chima was also shortened, and sleeves curved a little.

By early Joseon era, the Jeogori had shortened to around waist level also got a little tighter. As time went by, the jeogori got even shorter. It was about 65 cm in the 16th century, 55 cm in the 17th century, 45 cm in the 18th century, and 28 cm in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5 cm.

By the end of the Jeoson era, the women jeogori got so short, they had to wear heoritti below it!

Heoritti is an undergarment cloth worn by women under their jeogoris to cover their chest. It was a fashion style started by the Korean courtesan (kisaeng) that spread to the upper class. But many of the lower caste commoners and slaves, especially the married women with children, did not wear the heoritti. Some articles mentioned it being easier for breastfeeding while others mentioned the newfound status symbol as a mother.

The chima was fuller around the hips during the 17th and 18th centuries, making it like a pear shaped skirt. That was the trendiest style in 1800.

However, by the 19th century the A-line chima became the norm, which is also the design of the modern hanbok.

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Chapter

2

Modern Touch in Hanbok

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Hanbok in Media

O ve r t h e pa s t fe w yea r s , m a ny K-pop music videos have featuerd the Hanbok. Among many others, Blackpink wore it for their "How You Like That" MV and BTS also wore it in their "Idol" MV.

Not only that, the hanbok is featured i n m a ny p o p u l a r Ko r ea n d ra m a s too! The most popular ones are the Korean historical dramas like Dae Ja n g G e u m a n d S u n g k y u n k w a n Scandal. It is also featured in the recent K-drama "Mr. Sunshine".

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Modern Hanbok, Designed for Style and Comfort

Today, many influential and big fashion designers are giving hanbok a creative spin. Names like Lee In-Joon, Lee Yong-Hee, etc., are incorporating its traditional elements into modern wear. This collaboration of modernism and tradition is called modern hanboks.

Unlike the hanbok one rents to wear to the Palace, the modern hanbok is made with more breathable material for comfort. The skirt is also much shorter, for a more modern style and everyday wear.

Recently, hanboks have become the new street style, and you can also see people wearing modern jeogori or the overcoat with their usual jeans.

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Author Seungmin Song Design Seungmin Song Infograpich & Graphic Seungmin Song Typeface Adelle Palatino italic Text https://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Culture/view?articleId=159174 https://www.styleupk.com/blogs/fashion-magazine/hanbokhistory-of-the-traditional-korean-dress

Photography https://www.korea.net/NewsFocus/Culture/view?articleId=159174 http://mywedding.designhouse.co.kr/in_magazine/sub. html?at=view&info_id=65230 (Koream) https://english.visitseoul.net/tours/The-Hanbok-EN_/11852

Copyright© Seungmin Song 2021

Hanbok has a lot of elements to modernize....... since there are so many types of Hanbok, the scope of what I want to modernize is wide. There are also countless Hanbok materials.

—Lee, Young Hee