A MISAWA ITT TOUR
HIROSAKI ALL SEASONS
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Misawa Air Base, Japan
HIROSAKI
Hirosaki was once the capital of Aomori Prefecture. Although Aomori City is now the capital, many still see Hirosaki as the cultural and historical hub of the prefecture. It is the only city in the prefecture with a proper university; therefore, its citizens are regarded as more educated and cosmopolitan. You are most likely to see more non-Japanese people in Hirosaki than anywhere else in the Aomori prefecture. Hirosaki was founded in 1603 by Lord Tsugaru Tamenobu. It was the prefecture capital until the Meiji Restoration joined the Nambu and Tsugaru territories (southeast Aomori and western Aomori, respectively) into a unified prefecture. Aomori City was chosen as the new capital, but it never attained the prestige that Hirosaki still holds. 2
While Aomori City was almost completely obliterated in World War II, Hirosaki escaped unscathed, preserving its traditional landmarks and architecture. This is not to say that Hirosaki is an entirely pleasant city to spend time navigating in. As was common in feudal times, Lord Tsugaru deliberately designed the city to be as confusing as possible to invaders. The streets are a maze of winding, meandering lanes, rarely leading where one would expect them to. A sense of direction is a detriment in Hirosaki. A visitor would be better off wandering aimlessly and hoping for the best. Patience and diligence eventually allows one to reach Hirosaki Park, the centerpiece of the city. Within the park are more maze-like footpaths, which lead to the most recognized landmark in Hirosaki, the castle. Surrounded by a moat and built high upon a stone precipice, the castle appears today much as it did in Dazai’s and Lord Tsugaru’s time. In spring, during the brief blooming period of the cherry blossoms, literally millions of people flock to Hirosaki Park to bask under the cherry trees and have their picture taken on the bridge next to the castle.
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HIROSAKI CASTLE
Alternate Name: Takaoka-jo Founder: Tsugaru Nobuhira Year: 1611 Type: Flatland-mountain Structure: 3 levels, 3 stories Artifacts: Donjon (massive inner tower), 5 gates, 3 yagura (watchtower) Location: Hirosaki, Aomori Prefecture History: The three level donjon of Hirosaki-jo seems disproportionately small when compared to the huge estate encompassed by the castle today. Hirosaki-jo was originally built with a five level donjon, which was struck by lightning and burned to the ground in 1627. The donjon was not rebuilt until 1810. The new three level donjon is built atop the inner moat using the stone wall as the palisade for the donjon. Originally, it was also connected to a section of yagura along the top of this moat. The yagura, however, no longer exists and the donjon stands alone. Hirosaki-jo has the only extant donjon to the east of Matsumoto-jo (Nagano prefecture) making it a historical treasure to the Tohoku region. Hirosaki-jo is famous throughout Japan for the more than 5,000 cherry trees that cover its grounds today. Every spring when the trees are in bloom, thousands of visitors flock to the grounds to partake in one of Japan’s finest and most popular cherry blossom festivals.
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HIROSAKI CASTLE & PARK MAP
Ishiba Shop North Gate
Cow & Tiger Castle Keep
Red Bridge
Castle Tower East Inner Gate
Sheep & Monkey Castle Keep
Dragon & Serpent Castle Keep
Otemon Gate Fujita Memorial Japanese Garden
East Gate
CHRYSANTHEMUM
Called kiku in Japanese, chrysanthemums were featured on the Imperial Crest of Japan, and were so beloved by Japanese emperors that they sat upon chrysanthemum thrones. The Japanese still hold the chrysanthemum as a symbol of the sun. They consider the orderly unfolding of the mum’s petals to be a symbol of perfection. They also believe that a single chrysanthemum petal placed in the bottom of a wine glass encourages a long and healthy life. While chrysanthemums generally denote cheerfulness and rest, individual colors do carry specific messages: red for love, good luck, and best wishes; white for truth; and yellow for slighted love.
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WHAT ARE THE JUDGING POINTS FOR THE CHRYSANTHEMUM?
There are many ways to judge a chrysanthemum. There are thousands of types of chrysanthemums. For the judging, there are many different classifications and classes. In general, a flower is judged on thickness of the fruit, relative height, leaf color, shape of the leaf and fruit, and grouping of petals. Some plants are split into three stalks when they first begin to grow so that the plant ends up with three flowers at different heights. Each of the three fruits is given a name starting with the tallest being heaven, the middle being earth, and the lowest being man.
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HOW APPLES ARRIVED IN HIROSAKI
Hirosaki is also home to many apple growers and is known as an apple-colored town in appreciation of the important role apples play in local life. Apples were first introduced to Hirosaki in 1875. That Christmas, as the story goes, John Inge, an American instructor at the Too Gijuku School, treated his students to some western apples and thus brought the very first apples into Aomori Prefecture. In 1877, Shigeki Yamano, a Hirosaki sericulturist planted a trial apple tree in his own garden (now the site of the Hirosaki University School of Medicine). His first harvest produced three apples. Apples were found to be both excellent as a raw food and suitable for processing, and their cultivation quickly came to be the favored enterprise for local aristocratic families. Today, Hirosaki leads the nation in domestic apple production. 8
HIROSAKI / OTHER FACTS snow huts CITY EMBLEM: MANJI CITY FLOWER: CHERRY BLOSSOM CITY TREE: APPLE TREE
Hirosaki’s city emblem, the manji or reversed swastika, has a long history. In feudal times, it was used as the family crest of the local Tsugaru clan. It is said to symbolize the rejection of selfish motives and the devotion of the individual to society. It was adopted as the city emblem in 1900. Hirosaki’s cherry blossoms make a spring spectacle unparalleled throughout Japan. During the cherry blossom festival, from April 23 - May 5, about two million visitors flock to Hirosaki from far and wide. The cherry blossom was named the official city flower on April 1, 1993.
Hirosaki boasts the greatest apple production in Japan, with an annual yield of more than 130,000 tons, equivalent to 14 percent of the national harvest. The apple tree was declared the city tree of Hirosaki on April 1, 1993.
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HIROSAKI’S CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL
NEPUTA FESTIVAL
The park’s cherry blossoms are beautifully set off by the white of the castle walls and the green of the pine trees, making an enchanting sight for visitors and bringing out the very best of the spring season in Tsugaru.
The night skies burn with the vivid colors of illuminated warrior figures. Huge festival drums powerfully underscore the infectious refrain of flutes and fifes. This is Neputa, the fire festival, which celebrates the brief northern summer in Hirosaki.
Spring · Hirosaki Castle Miss Cherry Blossom Contest Mid-April · Spring River and Stream Cleanup Campaign Late April · Hirosaki Cherry Blossom Festival April 23 - May 5 · Hirosaki Castle Botanical Gardens Fujita Memorial Garden open Mid-April - November 23 · Children’s Day Gathering May 5 · Regular Fire Fighting Review May 5
Summer · Evening Festivals Late May - September · Swimming Pools Open Late June · Early Morning Vegetable Market Open Late June - Early November · Citizens’ Health Festival Mid-July · Summer River and Stream Cleanup Campaign Late July · Hirosaki Neputa Festival August 1 - 7
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FOUR SEASONS MAPLE AND CHRYSANTHEMUM FESTIVAL
SNOW LANTERN FESTIVAL
The breathtaking autumn colors of the maple leaves stand out against the castle’s pines. Ornamental chrysanthemum dolls and fragrant blossom wreaths add to the overall atmosphere of the ancient castle setting.
Snow lanterns depict valiant samurai and snow huts are illuminated by flickering candlelight. Snow and light combine to cast a magical spell over Hirosaki Park. Winter · Ski Resorts Open Mid-December · Fire Fighters’ New Year’s Demonstration January 6 · Coming-of-Age Ceremony January 15 · Outstanding Craftsman Commendation Ceremony Late January · Hirosaki Castle Snow Lantern Festival Mid-February · Cross-Country Ski Meet Mid-February
Autumn · Citizens’ Culture Festival
Early September - Mid-November
· Culture Road Mid-September · Hirosaki Castle Maple and Chrysanthemum Festival Early October - Early November · Citizens‘ Sports Festival October 10 · Apple Marathon Mid-October · Apple & Rice Harvest Festival Late October · Children’s Festival November 3 · Tsugaru Industry Fair Early November · Silver Manji Award Ceremony Late November · Sports Award Ceremony Late November
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CHERRY BLOSSOM VIEWING (HANAMI)
Hanami literally means flower viewing; however, it commonly refers only to cherry blossom viewing. From a distance, the trees appear as beautiful clouds, while the beauty of single blossoms can be enjoyed from close up. Cherry blossoms are especially beautiful in combination with a castle, temple, or shrine. In some places, the blossoms are lit up in the evening, which makes for an amazing sight. Hanami can be just a stroll in the park, but it traditionally also involves a picnic under the blooming trees. Hanami parties have been held in Japan for many centuries. These days, they are held in public and private gardens, and parks across the country. Famous cherry blossom viewing spots can get very crowded, and the best picnic spots are fought over. In especially popular places, it is common to reserve a picnic spot long before the party is held. The typical practice is to spread one’s picnic sheet early in the morning and either mark it with the group’s name and party starting time or to have somebody positioned there the whole day until the rest of the group arrives after work.
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HIROSAKI CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL
Late April - Early May It’s a sure sign that winter is finally over when the cherry blossoms arrive in Hirosaki. The spectacular setting of the feudal castle surrounded by more than 5,000 blossoming cherry trees make Hirosaki one of the most renowned sites in Japan for viewing cherry blossoms, with two million people visiting at this time each year. Most of the hanami action happens at night, when the white turrets of the castle are illuminated amongst millions of pink petals. For the full experience, don’t forget to walk through the cherry blossom tunnel, which can be found near the west moat. Cherry blossom season is also a great time to experience some traditional Japanese arts in Hirosaki, as both the Tsugaru Shamisen and folk song contests are held concurrently. The shamisen is a three-stringed lute developed in Japan during the Edo Period (1603-1867). The Tsugaru shamisen of the Hirosaki region is distinctive for its speed, energy, and irregular rhythms. Originally played by blind beggars, the style is said to owe much to the harsh climate of the region and the hardships endured by its players. It is complemented perfectly by Tsugaru folk songs.
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ALL ABOUT CHERRY BLOSSOMS
When do they bloom? The most important factor that determines the blooming time of cherry trees is the geographical location. The milder the climate, the earlier the blossoms open. On Japan’s southern, subtropical island of Okinawa, cherry blossoms open as early as January, while on the northern island of Hokkaido, they bloom as late as May. In most major cities in between, including Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, the cherry blossom season typically takes place around the end of March and beginning of April. The blooming time also differs from year to year depending on the weather. If the weather during the months and weeks preceding the cherry blossom season is mild, blossoms will open early. If it is cold, blossoms will open later. The start of the blooming season can vary by as much as plus or minus two weeks. How long do they bloom? The cherry blossom season is relatively short. Full bloom (mankai) is usually reached within about one week after the opening of the first blossoms (kaika). A week later, the blooming peak is over and the blossoms are falling from the trees. Strong wind and rain can cut the blooming season even shorter.
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A large majority of cherry trees in Japan are of the somei yoshino and yamazakura varieties, but over one hundred cherry tree varieties can be found in Japan. There are several characteristics that differ between the various cherry tree varieties. Some of the obvious ones, that can be easily recognized by beginners, are listed below: Number of petals: Most wild trees have blossoms with five petals; however, some species have blossoms with more than five petals, which are called yaezakura. Color of the blossoms: Most varieties produce lightly pink to pure white blossoms, but there are also cherry trees with dark pink or slightly yellowish blossoms. The color of the blossoms of some varieties change while they are in bloom, like from white to pink, for example. The leaves: For early blooming trees, the leaves usually do not appear until after full bloom, which gives the trees an attractive, homogenous look while they are in full bloom. With later blooming trees, the leaves usually appear before the blossoms, giving the trees a more heterogeneous look. Often the color of the leaves differs between the varieties. In most cases, the leaves range from green to coppery brown. Time of blooming: Most cherry tree varieties carry blossoms in spring. There are a few varieties that bloom in late autumn and during the winter months. Yaezakura are typically the last ones to open their blossoms about two to four weeks after most five-petaled species. Form of the tree: Cherry trees have various growing habits and come in many different shapes and forms: triangular, columnar, V-shape, weeping, flat-topped, and more. Weeping cherry trees are called shidarezakura.
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HIROSAKI SNOW LANTERN FESTIVAL
The contrast between the castle and its surrounding cherry trees create a varied landscape in each of the seasons. In recent years, Hirosaki has become a popular winter spot for tourists as well. The Hirosaki Snow Lantern Festival, which began in 1977, is now one of the five biggest snow festivals in the Tohoku region. Civic groups carve snow lanterns by hand and light them with candles. This movement was started by citizens to bring the community closer during the long winter nights of the northland.
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Early February The festival is usually held the second week of February. In addition to the glow from the lanterns, the snow-covered castle and the pine trees are also illuminated. From the main castle to the lotus pond, about 300 candle-lit mini kamakura create an enchanting atmosphere. The snow lanterns come in a variety of sizes and shapes. There are many lanterns with pictures of samurai warriors, similar to those in the Neputa Festival, and some come in strange shapes. The hopes and dreams of each citizen are reflected in these lanterns. At the main venue of the Shinomaru, there are huge snow sculptures of historic buildings, as well as a large slide. Both parents and children enjoy these and other entertaining events held during the festival.
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CHRYSANTHEMUM FESTIVAL
The castle grounds are a spectacular sight with the brilliant autumn hues of 1,000 maple trees mixed with the deep green pines. The chrysanthemums that adorn the dolls exude a sharp scent in the festival pavilions.
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End of October - Early November
The roots of this festival go back to the custom of enjoying the brilliant fall foliage in the area of Hirosaki Castle while viewing the exhibits at the chrysanthemum fair. In 1962, it was officially launched as the Chrysanthemum and Fall Foliage Festival.
These days, the festival is held at the Hirosaki Castle Botanical Garden, and the central event is an exhibit of dolls made of chrysanthemum flowers reproducing popular events that took place in the course of the year, or characters from TV dramas.
The exhibition also includes topiaries shaped like various animals and arrangements of chrysanthemums. The colorful and fragrant flowers create a gorgeous autumn atmosphere in the old castle. Various other events are held at the park on the sidelines of the festival, bringing joy and excitement to visitors.
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NEPUTA FESTIVAL Early August
The Hirosaki Neputa Festival is a vibrant event where about 80 magnificent floats (neputa) of various sizes parade through the city to the rhythm of drums and whistles. The floats are decorated with images of glorious heroes and warriors from works of classical Chinese literature like “The Romance of the Three Kingdoms” and “The Water Margin.” The dynamic march through the city has become an indispensable part of the summer ambience of Hirosaki. According to one hypothesis about the origins of the word neputa, it is derived from the expression nemuri-nagashi, which refers to a ritual of floating lanterns down rivers and along beaches in the summer to drive away the drowsiness and laziness that haunt farmers during the rigorous work season. The expression gradually changed to nemuta-nagashi, then nemuta, and eventually neputa. The first historical record of the Hirosaki Neputa Festival goes back to 1722, and for 300 years the event has been a beloved presence in the life of local people.
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Summer
Winter
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HIROSAKI CASTLE
Spring
Autumn
NOTES
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NOTES
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Misawa ITT Office
Phone: 226-3555 See a complete list of tours at www.35fss.com!
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