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Kambui Olujimi, Untitled (swan), from the series T-Minus Ø, 2017. Digitally printed cotton (flag), aluminum pole, zinc pole mount. Flag: 24 x 36 inches; pole: 72 inches.
KAMBUI OLUJIMI: ZULU TIME OPENS MAY 6
FREE ADMISSION • 227 STATE STREET mmoca.org
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Meg Rotter Editor in Chief Claire Hornacek Deputy Editor Alexandra Folino Art Director Victoria Fok WUD Publications Committee Director Jim Rogers WUD Publications Committee Advisor Deshawn McKinney WUD President
APRIL 2017 Alix DeBroux Haidee Chu Associate Art Director Sarah Friedland Caitlin Gronski Claire Grummon Marissa Haegele Cassie Hurwitz Photography Directors Briana Lerner Ashley Ng Jameson Zaballos Staff Writers Web Master Alexa Carlson Ben Golden Claire Hornacek Arts Curator Taylor Palmby Kenzie Bryant Ashleigh Perry Special Projects Designer Anna Snell Eva Wieland Kelsey Daykin Contributing Writers Reilly Koch Creative Directors Dani Fessler Alexa Carlson Catherine Finedore Fashion Editor Alex Gonzales-Walker Ashleigh Perry Darby Hoffman Norma Samaniego Lifestyle Editor Anna Whisler Models Haley Nippert Culture Editor Caroline Daniels Margaret Duffey Alexandra Folino Arts Editor Morgan Jameson Ashley Ng Jameson Zaballos Photography Men’s Editor Amileah Sutliff Amelia Faist Arts Editorial Assistant Art Anna Olla Taylor Palmby Eva-Delilah Wieland Marketing and Social Media Liason Special Events Coordinators
on the
COVER
NORMA SAMANIEGO PHOTOGRAPHED BY MORGAN JAMESON APRIL 2017 | 3
LIFESTYLE
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APRIL 2017
HEALING CRYSTALS: DEMYSTIFIED The pretty & practical nature of gems
24 35
THE CONTOURING CRISIS
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HUES
Say goodbye to chiseled cheeks
STEPPING OUT OF THE DARK From the everyday blues, to states of depression
Because ‘nude’ is not neutral
ART FASHION
6 22
SPRING 2017 COLOR REPORT The go-to palette of the season
THE ULTIMATE SUNGLASSES GUIDE
OPINION: WAR, WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR? How Trump’s attacks on the media threaten journalistic truths
MEN’S
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INTENSIFICATION OF EMOTION THROUGH SIMPLIFICATION OF COLOR
CLEAR COMMUNICATION Dismantling the myths surrounding BDSM
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The pioneer of a new genre
On the era of monochromatic art
How to choose the best frames for your face
CULTURE
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ILLUMINATING THE DARKNESS: KUMI YAMASHITA’S SHADOW ART
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SHATTERING THE MUSEUM MOLD The roles of interactive exhibition
FEATURED
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IN THE SHADOWS
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FADE INTO VIEW
Let’s get lost
Frayed, embellished and layered; spring denim looks that are anything but conventional
L E TTE R FROM THE EDI TOR
Standing
sun in the
April showers bring May flowers, or so the saying goes. While brightly-colored, rubber rain boots make puddle jumping bearable, I think we’re all ready for sunfilled afternoons at the Terrace. But even with warm weather right around the corner, there never seems to be a good time to nap on Bascom Hill, read the latest best-seller or strap on some rollerblades for an outdoor adventure.
A few months back, our Men’s Editor wrote about the benefits of taking time for yourself, and it got me thinking, when’s my break? As we get older, more and more is expected of us, and it seems irresponsible to ditch your duties for the day. However, your mental well-being is just as important (if not more) than your to-do list.
We live in a world that celebrates accomplishments, where we are glued to our screens and where a 60-hour work week is not uncommon, but what good is success if you’re miserable? Regardless if you have an exam or a big project coming up at work, take a moment for yourself. You define your own happiness, and you deserve a break. So today, weather permitting, take an hour to yourself and enjoy the world outdoors. Best,
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the
spring color report
BY ALEXA CARLSON, FASHION EDITOR Color is one of the best parts of life; it can be used to express feelings without a single word. It is also a major element of fashion. Changing the color of a garment or accessory can drastically change how one may wear it. Everyone has those colors they always come back to when putting together their outfits. Some people swear by black and black alone, while others may not have a single neutral item in their closet. The colors we wear day to day tell our story to the world. Twice a year, Pantone releases the “colors of the season” based on what was most popular on the runway. This year’s predictions for spring are full of life. From a joyful yellow to a confident, rich blue, these are colors that can breathe life into your spring wardrobe. Here are our favorite accessories in Pantone’s Spring 2017 colors.
haze l n ut Perfect for those who prefer more muted shades, this creamy tan is utter sophistication. This light hazelnut leather bag is the perfect spring substitute for your trusted black or brown model you’ve been toting all winter. Satchel: J. Crew, $98 On the runway: Chloe
fl a m e
p r i mro se ye l l ow
This bright orange is fierce and full of personality. Add these statement earrings to a look for a pop of confidence.
How can you not be happy while wearing this color? Sport this cheery bralette under your favorite spring blouses to indulge in some happiness no one even needs to know about...or share the cheer and let some lace show.
Earrings: J. Crew, $25 On the runway: Bibhu Mohapatra
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Bralette: Victoria’s Secret, $20 On the runway: Emilio Pucci
p in k ya r row
i sl and p arad i se
Not for the faint of heart, this pink packs a punch. This eye-catching phone case/crossbody hybrid leaves you hands-free to run around town, and maybe even throw in a couple cartwheels at the park.
Anything blue makes our minds wander to lazy days on the beach. No matter where you are soaking up the sun, enjoy the higher temperatures while wearing these dreamy light blue shades.
Phone Case: Michael Kors, $178 On the runway: Hermes
Sunglasses: Perverse from lulus.com, $50 On the runway: Altuzarra
ka le
l ap i s b l ue
Whether or not you enjoy the vegetable, you’ll love this color. This green is muted enough to act as a neutral, so take a chance and pair these heels with bright pink trousers or a pretty blush dress.
Again, this rich, moody blue has us dreaming of the sea. Even if you might not be able to make it on a tropical vacation just yet, sport these lapis blue sneakers to bring some island vibes to your street style.
Heels: Franco Sarto, $87 On the runway: Altuzarra
Sneakers: Adidas on asos.com, $100 On the runway: Louis Vuitton
*All accessory photos taken directly from brand website unless otherwise noted. Runway photos are all from vogue.com. Pantone color swatches are from pantone.com.
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DEMYSTIFIED BY EVA WIELAND, CONTRIBUTING WRITER & CLAIRE HORNACEK, DEPUTY EDITOR Crystal healing is based on the idea that each type of crystal has an energy or physical property. Properties range from protection, promoting creativity or aiding in meditation to easing pain in various parts of the body. These properties have been passed down since ancient times. The worldwide practice of using crystals to heal and promote improving wellbeing dates back at least 6,000 years.1 Ancient Egyptians were the first known to use crystals as amulets or talismans to ward off negative energies or evil spirits. From then on, people around the world, from the ancient Chinese, Romans and Greeks to the indigenous people of North and South America, to the authors of the Hindu Vedas, adopted their own beliefs and
practices regarding crystal healing.2 As healing practices developed, however, crystal healing was largely replaced by modern medical techniques. Today, people use crystals for many reasons: for healing, to aid in meditation and mindfulness exercises, to feel connected to the earth, and just because they are fun to collect.
Palermo, Elizabeth. “Crystal Healing: Stone-Cold Facts About Gemstone Treatments.” LiveScience. January 20, 2015.
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The theory behind crystal healing comes from the scientific fact that everything in the universe is a form of energy and has a frequency and vibration. Nikola Tesla showed that certain forms of energy can alter the vibrational resonance of another form of energy.3 According “How Ancient Cultures Used Healing Crystals and Stones.” QuantumStones.com. February 17, 2017. 2
Lucas, Stephanie. “How Ancient Cultures Used Healing Crystals and Stones.” QuantumStones.com. February 17, 2017.
to Tesla, “if you want to find the secrets of the universe, think in terms of energy, frequency and vibration.” Crystal healing is based on the idea that vibrations in crystals resonates with our own vibrations. These frequencies can harmonize and give a feeling of increased health or positivity. One way to choose a crystal is to seek out particular healing properties. Otherwise, if you find yourself drawn to a crystal, you likely need the property it possesses. Some people report feeling a tingling sensation, warmth or vibrations in their hand when they hold a crystal, a signal that the particular crystal is a good match. The best way to choose a crystal is to let the crystal choose you.
Known as the “dream stone”,1Jade aids in release and relaxation and encourages creativity. Place it on your bedside table or under your pillow to clear your mind as you sleep and promote a tranquil rest, while encouraging you to see yourself and life as they really are. Haxworth, Caryl. “Healing Properties of Jade from Charms Of Light - Healing.” Charms Of Light. 1
This bright, beautiful stone brings positivity, energy and life to all six chakras. It radiates happiness and can be a great pick-me-up when you feel low and need a boost. Although it is a brownish copper in the ground, once it is cleaned and exposed to the air it becomes a vibrant iridescent blue and is truly reflective of joy and noticing all of life’s beauties.1
This crystal’s properties of stress relief and clearing the mind come in handy during midterms and finals. When you are feeling overwhelmed and stressed, hold your crystal tightly in your palm or rub it gently across your forehead. When feeling extra stressed, pair this crystal with lavender or sage essential oils and practice slow, even breaths.
This earthy and smooth stone is calming to look at and hold. Plus, it helps soothe emotional uncertainty. This is the stone of “new beginnings”,1 so whether you are transitioning to a new Haxworth, Caryl. “Healing Properties of Moonstone from Charms Of Light Healing.” Charms Of Light. 1
“Bornite, Peacock Ore, The Stone Of Happiness.” Your Crystal Journey. March 23, 2016. 1
period in your life or just need to take a moment to reset, moonstone can enhance inner growth and strength. Keep it with you during the day, in a pocket or purse, and rub it through your fingers when you need its support.
Pure and protective, this translucent stone filters electromagnetic radiation and negative energies. Place it by your computer screen or keep it with technology to prevent your electronics from affecting the balance of your magnetic field. It is connected to the heart chakra, so it can also be worn as a necklace to keep you protected throughout the day. APRIL 2017 | 9
O P I N I O N :
War, What Is It Good for? A WA R O F W O R D S B E T W E E N TRUMP AND THE MEDIA BY HAIDEE CHU, CULTURE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Sorry, President Donald Trump. What I am about to say is probably going to upset you— I’m about to spread what you may consider “fake news.” If there is one thing we have learned about President Trump since he took office in January, it’s that he’s no rookie in conflict escalation. Intensifying immigrant relations? Fighting the intelligence community? Check, and check.1 Of course, every president wages wars, but what makes it different for President Trump is that the battles he fights make one of his feuds all the more perilous: the war on the media.2 Freedom of press may not be the only casualty in this war, though. The Trump administration’s relentless dismissal of press credibility may very well also infringe and undermine the legitimacy of American democracy. Yes, fake news needs to be addressed— but fake news is, in an overwhelming amount of cases, not the New York Times, CNN or the BBC. “Fake news” is no pioneering idea. In fact, it can Almasy, Jeremy Diamond and Steve. “Trump’s immigration ban sends shockwaves.” CNN. January 30, 2017. ; Todd, Chuck, Mark Murray, and Carrie Dann. “Donald Trump is turning up the heat in his war with the intel community.” NBCNews.com. February 16, 2017. 2 Nussbaum, Matthew, and Nolan D. McCaskill. “White House goes to war with the media.” POLITICO. 1
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be traced back to propaganda from older times.3 Benjamin Franklin, for example, once created
a fake issue of a newspaper in Boston in 1782 that stressed the non-Americanness of NativeAmericans and further incited animosity toward them.4 Prior to President Trump’s time in office, the harshest critics of “fake news” mostly lashed out at “news” within the realm of groundless, intentionally deceptive, or conspiracy-related pseudonews that unfairly targeted political figures and ideology.5 In short, they targeted news that was actually fake. The turning point perhaps came when President Trump held his first news conference as the then-President-Elect back in January, in which he called out CNN’s Jim Acosta as “fake news” in an attempt to avoid
discussing his alleged connections to Russia.6 The Carson, James. “What is fake news? Its origins and how it grew in 2016.” The Telegraph. February 08, 2017. 4 D’Costa, Krystal. “3 Historical Examples of “Fake News”.” Scientific American Blog Network. December 01, 2016. 5 Carson, James. 3
term “fake news” surged in popularity immediately but arguably for all the wrong reasons. Although mainstream news sources may at times engage in unbalanced reporting of real facts and may run controversial ideas as “the truth,” those stories are poor and biased journalism at worst—not fake. And while unjustly skewed journalism should be held accountable, the Trump Administration’s constant effort to confound and conflate real journalism with intentionally deceptive fake news is a deceitful move to delegitimize professional, credible news sources. The war on media targets more than just the media It is journalists’ ethical duty to “be vigilant and courageous about holding those with power accountable” and to “serve as watchdogs over public affairs and government” so that constituents can make informed, democratic decisions, according to the Society of Professional Journalists’ Code of Ethics.7 If it wasn’t for the Washington Post, Richard Nixon may have gotten away with the Watergate scandal8; if it wasn’t for the Spotlight Team at The Boston Carson, James. “SPJ Code of Ethics.” Society of Professional Journalists. 8 History.com Staff. “Watergate Scandal.” History.com. 2009. 6 7
Globe, the Roman Catholic Church may never have tackled the issue of clergy sex abuse.9 The lack of explicit differentiation between fake news and real news on the Trump Administration’s part is intentional and works to dismiss real news as fabricated. This enables
the administration to evade ethical responsibilities to remain transparent in its political endeavors. In short, proper journalism places power under a microscope—it exists so that those in power, especially the government, can be held accountable. That is something this administration may be trying to avoid. Nonetheless, the media has yielded as many critics as it has advocates for the scrutiny it places on Trump and his team. Some surveys show that the public thinks the press has been too easy on Trump,10 while others indicate the complete opposite.11 Likewise, some surveys show that people take faith in the media over Trump,12 while others say the opposite.13 This vehement tension and divide between the two contending sides is perhaps an indication of diminishing confidence in the media.14 This combination of events—diminishing faith in the press and the Trump administration’s anti-media rhetoric—is especially precarious when considering that many scholars regard Trump’s presidency as unprecedentedly comparable to “illiberal but democratically elected leaders elsewhere.”15 Here, scholars compare Trump to leaders in mostly Latin American countries, whose leaderships, though by law democratically elected, in practice violate their constituents’ rights of freedom through political practices and decisions made by leaders. Political judgements aside, blind and uninformed dependence in any one Davis, Jim. “Spotlight Church abuse report: Church allowed abuse by priest for years - The Boston Globe.” BostonGlobe.com. January 06, 2002. 10 Gottfried, Jeffrey. “More say press is too easy on Trump than said so of Romney, McCain.” Pew Research Center. September 22, 2016. 11 Shabad, Rebecca. “Poll: Majority think news media has been too critical of Trump.” CBS News. February 27, 2017. 12 Walsh, Kenneth T. “Voters Trust Media More Than Trump.” U.S. News & World Report. February 23, 2017. 13 Mills, Curt. “Poll: Trump More Trusted Than The Media.” U.S. News & World Report. February 9, 2017. 14 Gallup, Inc. “Americans’ Trust in Mass Media Sinks to New Low.” Gallup.com. September 14, 2016. 15 Stein, Elizabeth A., and Marisa Kellam. “Analysis: Trump’s war on the news media is serious. Just look at Latin America.” The Washington Post. February 16, 2017. 9
person as a source of information is problematic. It is close to impossible for any one person alone to distribute information to the mass public in a manner that encompasses the totality of any information without a trace of bias or selfish interest. Entrusting public knowledge to a singular governmental figurehead and an ideologically coherent cabinet who scholars deem foes of liberty and democracy, especially when they are recognized for pushing “alternative facts”—also known as lies, falsehoods, and fabrications—is dangerous, irresponsible and verges on the Orwellian. A world-wide study revealed that “presidential powers and institutional checks and balances are important determinants of press freedom.”16 Presidents whose ideological positions contradict that of mainstream media
are more likely to view the media as an opponent, hence posing a breach to press freedom in a manner that disables the government’s ability to protect the media from such infringement through the judicial and legislative branches. Sound familiar? The Trump administration has indeed called mainstream media “the opposition party”17 and has offered deliberately fabricated information that they call “alternative facts”— alternative interpretations of facts at best—that are contrary to mainstream reporting.18 Talk about a jab from the administration to dissuade the public from believing in facts and confiding in press professionalism. The controversy met its boiling
point back in February when the White House barred what are deemed some of the world’s most long-standing and credible news sources, including the New York Times, CNN, the BBC and the Los Angeles Times, from an offcamera briefing with Press Secretary Kellam, Marisa, and Elizabeth A. Stein. “Silencing Critics: Why and How Presidents Restrict Media Freedom in Democracies.” Comparative Political Studies 49, no. 1 (2016): 36-77. 17 Grynbaum, Michael M. “Trump Strategist Stephen Bannon Says Media Should ‘Keep Its Mouth Shut’” The New York Times. January 26, 2017. 18 Fandos, Nicholas. “White House Pushes ‘Alternative Facts.’ Here Are the Real Ones.” The New York Times. January 22, 2017. 16
Sean Spicer. TIME Magazine and The Associate Press proceeded to boycott the event in solidarity.19 This is a violation of the freedom of press and sets
a terrifying precedent for the next four years. The Trump administration has never offered a clear definition as to what they consider “fake news,” but it’s not difficult to spot an observable pattern— it’s whatever news Trump and his administration dislike.20 So far during his time in the White House, Trump has publically and repeatedly attempted to dismantle public confidence in the press and to subvert the legitimacy and credibility of the media. Journalism is the pillar of democracy, the ultimate supplier of information necessary for democratic citizens to make informed decisions. What, then, does it mean when the leader of a country, whose power reigns supreme, can singlehandedly dismiss the media in an attempt to construct an alternate reality powered by “alternative facts”? Who are to serve as the government watchdogs if they are weighed down by shackles that constrain the freedom of press? A society without journalism is, at best, as good as a society without laws. With a constant undermining of the legitimacy of journalism, a society’s constituents, and more importantly, its governing power, may exercise despotism drawn from an endless well of power without restraint or criticism. After all, who is to rebel against senseless acts of power and corruption if those they subjugate are forced to believe in lies and made unaware of corruption? When journalists are barred from doing their job—that is, from holding the government accountable— democracy may be subject to erosion. Journalism exists to hold our governing power accountable, but Trump’s war on the media unfairly strips journalists of
the weapons they need to defend and safeguard the very core of the country: democracy. It’s not just a war on the media; it’s a war on democracy— only without the ability to fight back.
Nussbaum, Matthew, and Nolan D. McCaskill. “Trump Has Called Dozens Of Things Fake News. None Of Them Are.” Media Matters for America. February 13, 2017. 19
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NORMA SAMANIEGO AND DANI FESSLER BY MORGAN JAMESON STYLED AND DIRECTED BY BROOKE KOMAS AND EVA-DELILAH WIELAND CREATIVE DIRECTORS: KELSEY DAYKIN AND REILLY KOCH
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TRENCH COAT | VINTAGE APRIL 2017 | 13
WOOL VEST | BCBGMAXAZRIA 14 | APRIL 2017
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JACKET | BDG
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SLIP | URBAN OUTFITTERS
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Illuminating the Darkness: Kumi Yamashita’s Shadow Art BY SARAH FRIEDLAND, ARTS WRITER While the use of shadows to create human silhouettes began in the 18th century as a cheap form of portraiture, the importance of shadow technique has grown in the art world.1 In the 1990s, Kumi Yamashita began experimenting with shadow art to play tricks on the human eye.2 Shadow art takes advantage of multiple objects to create distinct shadows that appear whole rather than pieced together. What looks like a pile of trash can create a shadow of a man. A folded piece of paper may become a word. With shadow art, there is more than meets the eye. Born in Japan and located in New York, Yamashita is one of the most popular shadow artists in the world. In an interview with Designboom, Yamashita recalls the moment when she first found joy in shadows. “I remember sitting on the patio of my family home in the late autumn afternoon. The sun was setting and was casting the shadow of swaying branches of our fragrant olive tree on the ground. For me, shadows came to symbolize another dimension of life, perhaps something even more real than its holder.”3 Yamashita’s Custom Silhouette Pictures. Cut Arts Studio. Bibliography. Kumi Yamashita.
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KUMIYAMASHITA.COM
first shadow art piece, “Profile,” uses wooden letters and numbers to reveal a man’s profile in the shadow. The artwork’s media also includes light, though, because without it there would be no shadow and no piece of art. Yamashita said “the complete artwork is… composed of both the material (the solid objects) and the immaterial (the light or shadow).”4
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Kumi Yamashita Plays with Shadow to Create Art. Forbes. Forbes. 4
Kumi Yamashita the Artist with a Fascination for Shadows. The Culture Trip. Culture Trip. 3
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It seems like shadow art would have a complicated process but Yamashita makes it sound simple. Her concepts often derive from famous works of art. She finds these work because they “are usually so complete they require no explanation they communicate their beauty directly.”4 Yamashita considers her ideas extensively before beginning to sketch. Taking composition and scale into account, she develops the idea so she can begin understanding how the work will appear when constructed. She must also chose a specific light source for each particular sculpture to ensure the shadow appears like a natural image. For example, one light source may make a human gesture, such as resting a hand on a knee, look unrecognizable while another makes it clear.4 Any extra light or irregularities in gallery walls can ruin the desired effect so the display space must be taken into account.
Yamashita’s work proves that there is more to art than meets the eye. As new techniques and technologies are invented, artists like Yamashita bring the ephemeral into their work. A shadow only appears when the light source is present, but the solid constructed object will remain. Shadow art pushes the art world to appreciate fleeting moments.
PABLOPICASSO.ORG
ARTIC.EDU
PICTIFY.SAATCHIGALLERY.COM
Intensification of emotion through simplification of color BY ANNA SNELL, CONTRIBUTING WRITER Breaking away from naturalistic coloring, monochromatic art is achieved through the use of a single color family to create a piece. Through simplifying the color palette, the artist effectively intensifies the emotional impact. The genre rose to popularity in the 20th century, taking hold of the art world with popular works ranging from highly abstract to more recognizable, from notable artists like Pablo Picasso and Vincent Van Gogh.1 Picasso began experimenting as an artist in 1890 with many different techniques and mediums but his groundbreaking work that led the 20th century Cubist movement is often noted as one of his greatest contributions to the art world.2 From 1901-1904, Picasso limited “Monochrome Painting.” Artsy. “Pablo Picasso.” Encyclopedia of World Biography.
his palette to shades of blue. The monochromatic pieces created fell under Picasso’s Blue Period, one of the most well-known phases of a single artist. Picasso’s Spanish heritage and depression are often credited as sources of inspiration for the period.3 Drunks, prostitutes and beggars often served as the subject matter for this somber period. Following the Blue Period, Picasso entered the Rose Period which continued the monochromatic theme but shifted the color palette from blue to rose shades. Some of Picasso’s most well-known monochromatic pieces include Old Guitarist, Femme aux Bras Croisés, and Woman with a Helmet of Hair. Picasso used monochromatic painting to create an emotional tone that still resonates with audiences today.
Besides Picasso, many other other famous artists, like Vincent Van Gogh, used a monochromatic color scheme in their work. Van Gogh created many single color family pieces with his most popular being An Old Tower in the Fields, and a composition from his series Sunflowers.4 Art is a form of expression that both portrays the thoughts of the artist and connects with the minds of the viewer. Through the use of monochromatic tones, artists translate their feelings onto a canvas. Artists like Picasso use the technique to work through depression, and by doing so, highlight the pain and suffering of the stigmatized disease. Through the use of only one color, the artist intensifies the subject and increases the emotion attached to it.
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“Pablo Picasso Biography.” The Biography.com website. December 10, 2015. 3
“Vincent’s Life and Work.” Van Gogh Museum.
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T he
U LT I MAT E SU NG L A S SE S GU I DE BY ASHLEY NG, FASHION EDITORIAL ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHY BY ASHLEY NG WITH CREATIVE ASSISTANCE FROM CLARKE SMITH Believe it or not, summer is just around the corner. Soon we’ll be saying goodbye to gloomy skies and hello to rays for days, which means the hunt for sunglasses is on. But before you go off and try on every pair of shades you find, let us help you narrow down the top contenders. Whether you have a square, heart, oval or round face shape, we’ve found the perfect sunglasses to compliment your face and complete your look.
ROUND
Unlike square faces, your face lacks angular features. Instead of sticking to the status quo, add some contrast to your look. To sharpen your softer features, try square or rectangular frames. Our picks: oversized, square, wayfarer and aviator.
22 | APRIL 2017 BELT | ANTHROPOLOGIE
HEART
For those of you with a heart shape, your face is most pronounced at your cheekbones, and becomes increasingly narrow. A pair of sunglasses that draws attention to the bottom of your face is perfect for balancing. Our picks: round eye, cat eye, pantos and aviator.
SQUARE
If you have a square face, you have a strongly defined jawline and square chin. Aim for rounded frames to soften your sharp angles. Our picks: cat eye, aviator and butterfly.
OVAL
If you have an oval face, you’re in luck. With your symmetrical features, it’s likely you’ll look good in most sunglass styles. So go on and grab some classic wayfarers, or snag a pair of trendy mirrored shades. Our picks: wayfarer, mirrored, aviator and oversized.
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T H E C O N TO U R I N G C R I S I S :
SAYING GOODBYE TO CHISELED CHEEKS BY CASSIE HURWITZ, LIFESTYLE WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY AMILEAH SUTLIFF
If you open a beauty magazine, visit a makeup blogger’s website or explore any beauty brand’s collection, you will see that contouring has been on everyone’s mind. Between Kim Kardashian’s obsession with highlighting and contouring, major brands like Kat Von D and Anastasia releasing contour palettes and the appealing appearance of chiseled, sculpted cheeks, contouring has had nonstop success over the past few years. But how did this beauty craze come to be, and what exactly are the rules? Contouring has a place far back in history, but more recently came into the spotlight because of social media and beauty gurus. As soon as makeup artists and celebrities showcased digital how-tos and diagrams, the world went crazy for this skin-sculpting phenomenon. The craze’s basis is in applying slightly-darker contour powder onto focus points in hopes of creating the appearance of a thinner, more sculpted face. Most face shapes require the shading of different areas, and as shown in the illustration to the left, there is a formula to follow. While it is true that many makeup-loving people have found confidence in the ability to alter their face shapes with beauty products, this confidence is arguably fake. Some would say that makeup is meant to enhance your natural features, not completely change the way they look. Contouring may make someone feel better about themselves, but it can also break down organic confidence by creating a false sense of security, making people believe they need to adhere to society’s favored image of a thinner face.
Enter nontouring, a new term that describes the movement away from contoured cheeks and toward a natural skin finish. This reaction to overly chiseled faces emphasizes loving your face the way it is, while still enjoying makeup. Nontouring prioritizes highlighting over contouring, which creates dewy skin, shimmery cheekbones and an overall glowy complexion. Even if you feel self-conscious about your facial shape, there are other ways to be confident rather than changing to feel better about who you are. Contouring is not the be-all-end-all for confidence. Yes, makeup should be a fun, individual expression; everyone should be able to wear it the way they want to. However, makeup should never take away from who you are underneath all the layers of product. So tomorrow, instead of waking up and thinking about what you would like to change and remove from your face, think about the areas you could highlight. Pile on bright blush and glowy highlighter, rock a smoky eye that complements your eye color or emphasize your killer lips with a bold shade. Whatever it is, make sure you still have the same confidence at the end of the night, once all the makeup is removed. After all, contouring gives people strong cheekbones and confidence boosts, but where does that go once they remove their makeup? Next time you are getting ready in the morning, try nontouring. It may do wonders for your confidence.
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fade into view Frayed, embellished and layered; spring denim looks that are anything but conventional. CATHERINE FINEDORE PHOTOGRAPHED BY CAROLINE DANIELS DIRECTED BY CLARKE SMITH AND TENLEY SANDUSKI
Jacket | designed by Catherine Finedore Jeans | GAP Silk tank | Forever 21 Heels | Vince
Jacket | Zara Hat | Urban Outfitters Glasses | Stylist’s Own Bralette | Calvin Klein Jeans | American Eagle | Vince 28Shoes | APRIL 2017
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Jacket | Forever 21 Wrap Top | American Apparel Scarf | Lulu’s Jeans | American Eagle Outfitters Shoes | Vince
Men’s
CLEAR COMMUNICATION: Dismantling the myths surrounding BDSM BY TAYLOR PALMBY, CONTRIBUTING WRITER IMAGES FROM WIKIA.COM
Chains, whips, handcuffs (oh my.) Those are just a few of the mental images that might come to mind when BDSM is mentioned. Every time a new Fifty Shades movie is released, there is inevitably a spike in interest towards BDSM and similar “kinks.”1 While some movies do a fantastic job of raising awareness or depicting the subject matter accurately, sometimes they get it, well, completely wrong. Wrong to the point of damaging misinformation, and in Fifty Shades’ case, alternating between hilarity and dangerousness. It’s 1
important to recognize that unfortunately, like most movies, Fifty Shades of Grey does a poor job of depicting the reality of bondage, domination, sadism and masochism. It’s also important to recognize that BDSM is not just one thing, and is in fact a broad category that contains a plethora of different sexual acts that can manifest in a variety of ways. It gets a little confusing, doesn’t it? All of the hype and discussion surrounding BDSM makes it difficult (but important) to differentiate fact from reality, so let’s talk about some of the myths surrounding it.
Data source: Google Trends. https:// trends.google.com/trends/explore?date=2014-03-03%20 2017-03-31&q=BDSM.
MYTH 1 “Women must be submissive.” This is inaccurate. People of all genders may experiment with being submissive, dominant or both. There is no formula stating who must be dominant or submissive. Ultimately, it comes down to individual preference and is something that should be discussed beforehand with a partner. Many 32 | APRIL 2017
couples enjoy switching off who is dominant and who is submissive. There is no gender norm that should determine who is dominant and who is submissive in the relationship, and it is completely normal for people of all genders to be submissive.
MYTH 2 “BDSM is abusive.” This myth is really prevalent in those who receive all of their knowledge about BDSM from Fifty Shades of Grey, especially because Christian Grey does indeed exhibit many abusive qualities, such as stalking and manipulating. This is why it is so important to make a clear distinction between BDSM and abuse. BDSM is consensual, and there should be not only guidelines and safewords in place, but a very clear amount of communication beforehand so that if at any time a participant is uncomfortable they can immediately stop. One of the hallmarks of the BDSM community is “safe, sane and consensual.” Indeed, a study by psychologist Alexis
Conason shows that “Emotional and/ or physical abuse is no more common in BDSM relationships than in ‘vanilla’ or any other type of relationships.” 2 In addition, careful communication and comfort after the BDSM act is extremely important to members of the BDSM community, and this is vital for creating a safe, consensual and healthy relationship. Above all, communication is key in exploring aspects of BDSM, and active communication will prevent any problems that may arise and drift into “abusive” territory. The head
mistress at La Domaine Esemar told the Huffington Post “BDSM is about creating vulnerability, opening yourself up to your partner in a way you can trust them to take you to some of these dark places that are considered taboo overall, but in a loving way,” Mistress Couple explained. “That’s what’s missing from the ‘Fifty Shades of Grey.’ Christian continuously violates [Ana’s] trust and her ability to feel safe, and that any person in their right mind would get out of a relationship that’s like that.” 3 Marcus, Stephanie. “’Fifty Shades Of Grey’ Isn’t A Movie About BDSM, And That’s A Problem.” The Huffington Post. February 16, 2015. Accessed April 11, 2017. 3
Brockway, Laurie Sue. “’Fifty Shades of Grey’ Controversy: The Difference Between Abuse and BDSM.” EverydayHealth.com. August 13, 2013. 2
MYTH 3 “You must be kinky to enjoy BDSM.” BDSM can manifest itself in many different ways and has many different levels of involvement, and the umbrella term encompasses a vast amount of different acts. Some people may only
enjoy spanking or being blindfolded, while others might enjoy everything from whips to anal plugs. It is not a one-sizefits-all sexual activity, and research into the subject is actually encouraged to
determine what acts sound enjoyable. Your fantasies may lie on different parts of the BDSM spectrum, but it’s normal to not be comfortable with everything.
MYTH 4
“BDSM is purely sexual, and can’t be explored non-sexually” False. Many people in the BDSM community do not participate in any sexual activities, and many acts involved in BDSM are not explicitly sexual in nature. Instead, they enjoy BDSM because of the
mental and emotional aspects that they get to share with another person. Many acts in BDSM involve a power exchange and vulnerability, and these acts do not have to be sexual. This aspect can be very
important to many people, even those who are not interested in engaging with this power dynamic in a sexual way.
MYTH 5
“People who engage in BDSM can’t have a stable or monogamous relationship.” Many people in the BDSM community are monogamous and have no interest in polyamory.4 One of the most powerful things about BDSM can often be that intimate connection with a partner. There is also no evidence5 to show that those Gueren, Casey. "25 Facts About BDSM That You Won't Learn In." BuzzFeed. Accessed April 05, 2017. 5 Ibid 4
In all, BDSM is not all elevator sex, red rooms and power, and it’s certainly not at all about the borderline-abuse that is flaunted at times in the Fifty Shades series. It’s a community and culture that enjoys a wide range of activities, and
who enjoy BDSM are more likely to hop from partner to partner more quickly than people who are not. In reality, it takes a great deal of trust and vulnerability to participate in BDSM, and this may lead to a more healthy and long-lasting relationship. In fact, Christian Joyal who published a paper in the Journal of
Sexual Medicine titled, What Exactly is an Unusual Sexual Fantasy, found that couples who participate in BDSM show “an increase in relationship closeness, and decreases in psychological stress,” both of which indicate a stable relationship.6
just like other aspects of sex, should be explored and discussed openly with your partner. BDSM is not just one thing and can be very rewarding for many people. Before participating, it is important to gain consent, engage in a healthy level
of conversation and communication and do plenty of research to ensure safety for everyone involved. Above all, don’t jump into anything involving BDSM blind(folded). At least, not yet.
Joyal, Christian C., Amélie Cossette, and Vanessa Lapierre. “What Exactly Is an Unusual Sexual Fantasy?” The Journal of Sexual Medicine 12, no. 2 (2015): 328-40. 6
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S H A T T E R I N G the MUSEUM MOLD BY CAITLIN GRONSKI, ARTS WRITER Picture this: A wealthy older couple strolls through the Musée du Louvre on a Sunday afternoon, stopping to analyze 19th century impressionism or to politely argue over whether Mona Lisa’s smile conveys genuine happiness or stifled annoyance. It’s all too easy to conjure up this stereotype of who attends museums, what works of art are showcased in them and how attendees interact with the art in museums. However, recent initiatives aim to make museums more collaborative and inclusive spaces. Curators and organizers are beginning to expand their target audience by reserving some blank space for more interactive pieces with diverse subject content. Across the country, university museums are striving to include more students through both curator and artist roles. For instance, at Bowdoin College Museum of Art, students Virginia Crow and Michael Amano aided in curating a major exhibition called “Perspectives From Postwar Hiroshima: Chuzo Tamotzu, Children’s Drawings, and the Art of Resolution.” Amano, a neuroscience major, had zero curating experience prior to the exhibition, but interviewed and made
videos with those who had drawn the pictures and created wall labels for the exhibit.1 The museum recognized the value of connecting students to the psychology of trauma and expression through art. The involvement of students in the curating process allowed the exhibition to take on a greater level of meaning, while opening it up to a younger audience. Beyond curating, students are finding a place in the art world through art construction. At the Ringling Museum in Sarasota, Florida, 12 Florida State University students and Sarasota area volunteers helped artist Anne Patterson install 8,472 ribbons for the exhibition “Pathless Woods.”1 The inclusion of students and volunteers created a shared artistic experience that spanned across several generations. Museums have also started opening their doors after-hours to encourage teenage involvement. For instance, Youth Insights at the Whitney Museum in New York City is a semesterlong after-school program in which high school students spend time learning from an artist about how museums operate behindthe-scenes.2 After completing a semester in the program, students are eligible to apply for a paid internship as a Youth Insights leader, who is responsible for facilitating programs and Fabrikant, Geraldine. “On College Campuses, a New Role for Students: Museum Curator.” The New York Times. The New York Times, 15 Mar. 2017. 2 Tugend, Alina. “Museums Tell Teenagers: We’re Here for You.” The New York Times. The New York Times, 15 Mar. 2017. 1
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events. By allowing youth to gain handson experience with artists, this younger generation is able to foster a deeper appreciation for museums and the power of art. Programs like the Whitney Museum’s add a degree of humanity to museums, exposing students to viable career paths within the art world, which they may have considered inaccessible before. It is vital for museums to break down the gallery wall between the traditional art world and the general public to be successful cultural institutions. By increasing the number of opportunities for younger generations to participate in at museums, the art world becomes more accessible and grows in diversity. Collaboration will only continue to enrich museums and foster growth in its participants.
Stepping Out of the Dark BY BRIANA LERNER, LIFESTYLE WRITER
Having an off day, week or month is not unfamiliar to most. Nothing seems to go right, and you never feel completely happy. These dark times can be due to a rough, emotional break up, disappointments with school, not receiving the opportunities you believe you deserve, being surrounded by negative people or an unfortunate combination of such situations. The good news, however, is that you can overcome these feelings. These feelings can sound similar to major depressive disorder, a serious mental illness. However, there is a difference between simply feeling sad and having depression. Depression is a mental illness that requires a medical professional’s diagnosis, and is more than being down about something specifically. According to Psychology
Today, sadness is a very normal human emotion, has a specific cause and is temporary. However, clinical depression is an “abnormal” way to feel, with no specific cause and lingers for longer periods of time.1 Sadness, on the other hand, is a completely natural human emotion. Everyone experiences dark points in their life, and you are allowed to feel sad, disappointed and dejected about such situations. Allow yourself to wallow, and take some time to embrace what you are feeling at the time instead of rushing to get out of the rut. Acknowledge that it is completely okay to be unhappy with the way your life is going, at the universe or with a divine being. No one’s life is perfect, “The Important Difference Between Sadness and Depression.” Psychology Today. October 2, 2015. 1
and everyone goes through something similar. After allowing yourself to wallow, you can start healing. Identify the source of the issue and start there. It could be shady friends, negative people, past mistakes, a missed opportunity or a rejection. Try to cleanse the source of the problem, and be critical. A source of total sadness in your life does not deserve to have room. This is also an opportunity to discover something new in your life, whether it be new friends, a single life or possibly even new activities. Try a change of pace or scenery, switch up how your schedule looks and do not be afraid to change whatever has caused these feelings. From a dark time in your life, it is possible to grow and change.
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hues BY ASHLEIGH PERRY, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ASHLEIGH PERRY, ANNA WHISLER, AND ALEX GONZALES-WALKER PHOTOGRAPHED BY CAROLINE DANIELS
Shade is the key component to any good makeup look. What shades will go together, what shade makes my eyes pop and what shade goes with my outfit? However, one “shade” question that many people tend to forget is how shade interacts with skin tone.
This new love affair with bold colors is wonderful and creative, but if consumers cannot see these new shades on models who look like them, it is hard to take the risk when there’s the potential of not looking as they had hoped.
Just as your favorite pallet holds countless shades of eyeshadow, there, too, exist many shades of people. While people can wear whatever colors they like, no matter their skin tone, specific color families definitely make each variation of skin tone pop.
Another problem in the beauty market is the definition of “nude,” as there is a conflict between shades of makeup called nude and the actual shade of people’s skin. Upon first glance at a mainstream “nude” shade, it becomes blatantly apparent that it was based off of fair skin tones.
For example, vampy berry colors make dark skin look richer, while light pastels accentuate paler skin. When online shopping, it seems especially impossible to determine what colors compliment you if you see the color on one skin tone, most often white. As of late, makeup trends have been leaning more toward the bold, rather than erring on the side of neutral. Instead of sticking to more traditional shades, people are gravitating toward bright, bold colors that many makeup users used to typically shy away from.
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This product development leaves a large part of the market unable to find a suitable nude shade, because, though it may come as a shock to beauty companies, everyone is not white. For now, we need to continue fighting for equal representation of skin tones all along the spectrum. Many companies are starting the movement by swatching their products on two or three skin tones, so audiences can get an idea of which one to buy. As the makeup industry grows, it becomes even more vital that everyone gets equal and fair representation.
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