Moda Madison: December 2019 Issue

DECEMBER 2018 1

TEAM EDITOR IN CHIEF Eva-Delilah Wieland DEPUTY EDITOR Cassie Hurwitz ART DIRECTOR Lauren Chung WUD PRESIDENT Mills Botham WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE DIRECTOR Fernanda Martinez Rodriguez WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE ADVISOR Jen Farley CREATIVE ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR Sadeq Hashemi ON THE COVER Victoria Esteves by Max Goldberg

ASSO CIATE ART DIRECTOR Ellie Braun ART CURATOR Channing Smith PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Ella Guo CREATIVE DIRECTORS Geordon Wollner Reilly Koch FASHION EDITOR Brooke Komas LIFESTYLE EDITOR Molly Rapozo CULTURE EDITOR Haidee Chu ARTS EDITOR Naomi Gallagher SOCIAL MEDIA AND MARKETING LIAISON Lindsey Young FINANCIAL MANAGER Maggie Brennan WEBMASTER Anna Soboleva EVENT COORDINATOR Ashleigh Perry STAFF WRITERS Elise Andersen Katie Herrick Madeline Rasmussen Samaaya Jayamaha

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Allyson Konz Ariana King Ashleigh Perry Channing Smith Charlotte Muir Eden Breslow Emily Bian Gloria Requena Isabella Byrne Kasey Busiel Kate Lawless Martha Daniels MODELS Adjua Nsoroma Ben Golden Cassie Hurwitz Ciara Bridges Geordon Wollner Joicelyn Brenson Julia Schiller Katie Herrick Lillian Olson Luna Gueled Megan Lane Nikki Erdmann Pheobe Lucienne Taylor Lauri Victoria Esteves ART Channing Smith Haidee Chu Kaitlin Banafsheha Molly Jacobs PHOTOGRAPHY Annika Ide Channing Smith Geordon Wollner Josh Redfearn Max Goldberg Molly Rapozo Nicole Golowina

TABLE OF CONTENTS DECEMBER 2018

LIFESTYLE

10 14 15 24 26 27 30 34 44

UNDER THE KNIFE

Plastic surgery perceptions

PILLOW TALK Let’s get intimate

WARMING DRINKS FOR FINALS Six sweet sips

BEATING THE HOMESICK BLUES How to handle missing home

MUGS WITH MODA

The best (and worst) hot chocolate this season

CURL YOUR ENTHUSIASM

FASHION

6

FROM SLEEPWEAR TO STREETWEAR

8

‘TIS THE SEASON: GLITTER TO GLAMOUR

36

THE TOP LUXURY BRANDS OF 2018

48

ARE YOU FAUX REAL?

We woke up like this

Festive dressing for the holiday season

Luxury fashion companies on Forbes’ list of The World’s 100 Most Valuable Brands

The dark truth behind fur practices in the fasion industry

Tousled and textured

THE FAKES ARE BLENDING IN We can’t brush it off

HIGH BEAUTY STANDARDS

An exploration into CBD products

RIHANNA’S REIGN

The superstar turned businesswoman is redefining beauty standards

ARTS

CULTURE

32 46

5 12

BEDROOM POP OFFBEAT GLAMOUR

37

49

VIRTUAL TEXTURE

An introduction to the work of artist Ashley Longshore

The harmful reality of fast fashion

THE COSTS OF ADOPTION

How adoption affects individuals and society

FEATURED

17

The DIY music scene

DRESSED TO KILL

LUXE UNDER THE WIRE

Artist Lucy explores the relationships between material and fine art

DECEMBER 2018 3

&

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

KEEP IT

comfy

December can feel like a total drag as the temperatures drop, the semester wraps up and we await winter break and a fresh start with the New Year. I, for one, have unfortunately already receded into hibernation mode, spending lingering moments cuddled up in my bed—a warm, safe sanctuary— and even longer moments throughout my active day dreaming about when I can snuggle back in.

This is kryptonite to productivity and an impossible strategy to head into final exams and 2019. There is so much left to do before the year’s end, and too much Wisconsin winter ahead for withdrawal.

The Moda staff, however, are huge fans of savoring moments and creating something amazing out of otherwise uninspiring situations. Although we may feel guilty when all we want to do is nothing, there isn’t anything wrong with getting cozy! In fact, contentment is an essential value that we often put to the wayside, letting stress, responsibilities and other priorities take over.

The crucial part is—as I will always preach—finding balance.

Give yourself opportunities to be cuddly and savor them. Then, let that charge you to get up, get out and do something awesome.

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cozy

We created this month’s issue, Plush, to be something for you to cuddle up with, read and get inspired.

Plush is warm, soft, luxurious and oh-so comfy. From reviews of State Street’s best hot chocolates to finding solace in CBD beauty products, we encourage you to treat yourself to healing treats and something interestingly new. We give you comfort through Art’s study of texture and raw anecdotes on homesickness, intimacy and international adoption. Above all, we celebrate people owning themselves like the curly haired beauties in the Lifestyle spread, plastic surgery patients and Rihanna’s Fenty models.

Let this issue remind you to live a cozy life that is plush inside and out. Take the time to cuddle up for warm days inside, and bundle up to brave the outdoors and breathe in the crisp December air.

Soft smooches holidays!

Eva

and

happy

ARTS

PO P

BEDROOM

THE DIY MUSIC SCENE

BY NAOMI GALLAGHER, ARTS EDITOR ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR In an era of increasingly hightech modes of musical production, the aspiring artist may be daunted by the limited access and high prices of studio luxuries. However, a new wave of young artists have effectively defied this culture of digital extravagance by producing their own tracks from the comfort of their bedrooms. “Bedroom Pop,” also known as “Lo-fi” or “DIY” music is an emerging genre that celebrates resourcefulness, innovation and a less polished sound. Contrary to what the modern listener might believe about music quality, the homemade essence of these songs is actually what has driven artists like Clairo and Gus Dapperton into viral sensation.

Programs and sites such as GarageBand, YouTube, SoundCloud and Ableton are the stay-at-home musician’s toolkit essentials, making music production more attainable and affordable than ever before. The story of 20-year-old Claire Cottrill, better known as “Clairo,” is heralded as the beau idéal of the bedroom pop artist’s rise to fame. In an interview with Pigeons and Planes, Clairo describes her formative production process, “I started putting up songs on SoundCloud when I was 14…I would sit on my floor and use the Voice Memo app to record a cover, add some sort of random effect, then upload it. I never really put too much thought into it.”1 Five years later, the young artist uploaded a music video for her song Pretty Girl, penetrating the indie music sphere full force, and the 1Jacob Moore, “Meet Clairo, the Lo-Fi Bedroom Singer/Songwriter Who Went Viral By Being Herself,” Pigeons and Planes, September 29, 2017.

video continues to creep past 23 million views.

Currently, considerable skepticism surrounds the actual serendipity of Pretty Girl’s explosion, with whisperings of potential assistance from her father’s ties to the music world. Bedroom pop fans are offended by the distasteful prospect that her talent was not so self-made after all, but despite her convenient connections, Clairo is where she is today as a result of her delectable, lo-fi, dreamy sound that the people can’t seem to get enough of.

What is it exactly about these fuzzy, demo-like songs that cut us straight to the core? It should seem logical that the contemporary ear would be accustomed and drawn to layers upon layers of production, and to some extent this is true. But perhaps people are finding a certain comfort in the modest melodies of bedroom pop; perhaps it serves as a much-needed interlude from the flashy sounds of the mainstream.

Bedroom pop artists have attested to the genre’s invocations of intimacy and the emotional significance of creating from one’s sleeping quarters.

Brooklyn-based DIY artist Warren Wolfe, 21, exposes the trials of intimacy in modern hookup culture through his grippingly candid lyrics. The rawness of his songs is inextricably linked to the setting in which he writes them: his bedroom. Wolfe spoke with i-D Magazine last year about his artistic process, noting that producing from home has aided in his self-assuredness when writing lyrics that are

“unquestionably queer.”2 He describes his bedroom as a sort of safe space in which he is “comfortable expressing [himself] without boundaries.”

In the same interview with i-D, Gus Dapperton, 21, reveals another added benefit of producing from the confines of one’s bedroom. “It’s hard for me to find people that I can trust to work with my vision. I have such a strong idea for what the sound should be...so working alone is kind of the only way I can make music,” he says. In this regard, creating within one’s personal space rather than a studio setting allows for enhanced artistic freedom as well as a certain pureness to the songs, as the listener hears the lyrics and music as they were written, not through a producer’s filter. This connects to the notion that contemporary listeners are craving something outside of the high definition paradigm.

Rawness, candor and intimacy, all of which are communicated through the lo-fi grittiness of bedroom pop, are evidently qualities that people seek out in the music they consume. It is entirely possible that this current gravitation toward a more stripped down, minimalistic sound is a reflection of Gen-Z’s nostalgic appetite, alongside the resurgence of vinyl, film and highrise jeans. Yet, this particular craze cries of something more than just retro fad; it exposes a generational yearning to connect with art and artists, and one must wonder if this connection has somehow become lost amidst the ever-advancing music industry.

2André-Naquian Wheeler, “How to become a pop star without leaving your bedroom,” i-D, October 31, 2017.

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sleepwear

FASHION

FROM

TO

STREETWEAR

BY ISABELLA BYRNE, FASHION STAFF WRITER PHOEBE LUCIENNE PHOTOGRAPHED BY NICOLE GOLOWNIA For those guilty of hitting snooze one too many times in the morning—you are in luck! Sleepwear is having a moment in fashion. Style beginners and experts alike can finally rock pajamas during the day and doing so is entirely acceptable.

Embrace the “I woke up like this” look with items that may already be in your closet.

The sleepwear trend first made an appearance in 2015 and is back and bigger than ever this year. Retailers from Forever 21 to Gucci offer selections of silk button-down pajama tops, a clear wardrobe essential for the holiday season.

Available in solids, stripes, sequins and florals—the options are endless.

Styled with key pieces, sleepwear can transition to streetwear with little effort. For a subtle start, pair a black lace camisole with distressed denim and a tailored blazer or leather jacket. Feeling bold? Style a colorful silk robe with a simple white t-shirt, classic jeans and ankle boots. To go big or go home, kick off those slippers and pair a matching silk PJ set with a pair of killer heels.

As the saying goes, it’s not how you start—it’s how you finish. Mastering this trend requires finishing touches of personal style. Transform the look by pairing funky earrings with a silk camisole or thick hoops with a sequined pajama top. Do not be afraid to push your creative limits!

Sleepwear during the day, though unexpected, presents an ideal opportunity to repurpose items you might already own. Utilizing creative styling can be a fun way to participate in current trends without breaking the bank—a win for everyone. Rolling out of bed never looked so good!

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DECEMBER 2018 7

FASHION

‘TIS the SEASON: GLITTER TO GLAMOUR

BY GLORIA REQUENA, FASHION EDITORIAL ASSISTANT JULIA SCHILLER PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOSH REDFEARN

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If there was ever a time to dive head first into festive dressing, it would be the month of December. This time of year inspires outfits that adopt a “more is more” attitude, fully embracing the glitz and glamour of the season. The associated styles elicit bold hues, plush textures, shining metallics and celebratory silhouettes that encourage us to pop champagne bottles and toast to new beginnings. It’s fitting, then, that holiday attire aims to satisfy the inner discerning person we all have inside— as Oscar Wilde once said, “I have the simplest tastes. I am always satisfied with the best.”

GLITTER AND CHAMPAGNE If it sparkles, bring it on. Sequins, in particular, can be traced back to ancient Egypt, when the notorious pharaoh, Tutankhamun, covered his outfits with them as a way to ensure financial stability in the afterlife1—a 1Jessica Schifer, “The Surprising History of Sequins,” Who What Wear, November 14th, 2015.

belief that aligns with the luxurious feel of the holiday season.

The capacity for metallics in festive dressing reaches no limits, as overthe-top looks are more than welcome.

However, balancing statement pieces with basics ensures that outfits will transition perfectly from family gatherings to New Year’s Eve celebrations. Try styling a silver sequin top with skinny black pants and block-heeled boots for an effortlessly chic ensemble. Is there a better way to toast the end of the year than a fabulous outfit?

PLUSH PLEASURE Nothing screams luxury and glamour quite like velvet. With its smooth texture and tendency toward rich, jewel-toned hues, it is, no doubt, a favorite among the fashion elite.

The relationship between velvet and a lavish lifestyle comes from its historical roots. Before retailers

gained a stable foothold in the modern industry, velvet was costly to produce—thus, affordable only to wealthy and royal families.2 There are endless ways to style velvet for the holiday season. From minimalist dresses to full-on sleepwear-inspired suits, this rich texture will not fail to make its wearers look and feel their best. Take a note from actress Blake Lively—for the 2017 Cannes Film Festival, Lively glowed in a golden velvet midi-dress with a wrapped front to accentuate her waist.3 In essence, the holiday season is an ideal opportunity to create fabulous outfits, pulling together those stand out pieces at the back of your wardrobe waiting to shine. Whether your invitations are casual or formal, be sure to take part in the blissful cheer that is festive fashion!

2Elizabeth Wieck, “The 7 Things You Need to Know About Velvet,” One Kings Lane.

3Tamison O’Connor, “Celebrity Trends: Velvet Touch,” Vogue UK, March 6th, 2017.

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LIFESTYLE

UNDER THE

KNI F E

BY KATIE HERRICK, LIFESTYLE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT MEGAN LANE PHOTOGRAPHED BY MOLLY JACOBS

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asked them their motives for surgery and their feelings before and after. None are quite what you would expect.2

When you hear the words plastic surgery, what do you think?

Facelifts, breast enlargements, nose jobs and lip injections may come to mind, as well as a Beverly Hills lifestyle.

These are true occurrences, but the majority of plastic surgery procedures are done for radically different reasons.

Plastic surgery is not all about altering your appearance; it is about life-saving surgeries, body-altering procedures for trans-people and shedding insecurities. It is time we let go of our old stereotypes and useless negative thoughts on plastic surgery.

A study done by the American Society of Plastic Surgeons found that “most people seriously seeking plastic surgery 一71%一make $60,000 or less. Sixty-four percent are under 50, and 81% haven’t had plastic surgery before.”1 That certainly isn’t the “typical” patient you thought of at the beginning, is it?

Vice interviewed several people and 1Daniel J. DeNoon, “Who Gets Plastic Surgery and Why,” WebMD, August 30, 2005.

Sarah had a breast reduction from a G cup to a D cup after years of terrible back and neck pain, sweating and rashes. After her surgery, she says her confidence skyrocketed.

She felt comfortable in her own skin again and her aches and pains were gone.3 “I was under 30 when I had the procedure, and to be that age with breasts like that is horrible; you expect to be a granny.”4 Fox had top surgery to get their breast tissue removed and nipples resized and repositioned. The freedom they gained from no longer needing to wear a binder was “life-changing.”5 Although having a plastic surgery procedure is a big deal, many patients have no regrets about their surgery.

The procedures can become part of people’s identities, making daily life easier and helping them find confidence in their skin.6 An often forgotten need for plastic surgery is for burn victims. Skin grafts, 2Chris Bethell, “People Reveal the Moment They Decided to Get Plastic Surgery,” Vice, March 23, 2018.

3Ibid.

4Ibid.

5Ibid.

6Ibid.

reconstruction and scar removal is an important aspect of rehabilitation and reintegration into society. More than 16,00 reconstructive burn surgeries were done in 2016, an increase of 4% from 2015.7 Regardless of someone’s motives, why is it anyone’s business to judge?

Why do we think it is our place to shame others for doing something, something very expensive to add, for themselves to improve their happiness and quality of life? Why do people feel like they need to keep these happy moments in their lives a secret?

We should be celebrating people who have the courage to do these things for themselves. When someone goes in for a medical surgery, such as a transplant or a C-section, we congratulate them, get them gifts and wish them the best of luck. Why then, do we not do this for people who elect to participate in surgeries?

Whether it be for medical treatment, body alteration, a confidence booster or just a reclamation of an insecurity, plastic surgery is here to stay. 40.8 million plastic surgeries were done in 2017, a trend that is steadily increasing.8 It is time we throw away our negative stereotypes and perceptions of plastic surgery and start supporting those who elect to alter their lives.

7Adam Ross, “How Plastic Surgeons Are Improving Quality of Life for Burn Patients,” American Society of Plastic Surgeons, February 4, 2018.

8ASPS National Clearinghouse of Plastic Surgery Procedural Statistics, PlasticSurgery.org, 2017.

DECEMBER 2018 11

ARTS

OFF B E AT G L A M O UR AN INTRODUCTION TO THE WORK OF ARTIST ASHLEY LONGSHORE

BY MADELINE RASMUSSEN, ARTS STAFF WRITER “Major Poontang Does Not Fly Commercial,” is strewn across a canvas in all of its bedazzled, boastful glory. This text along with a backdrop of daintily drawn flowers composes one of Ashley Longshore’s most wellknown pieces. Longshore, who can be granted a variety of titles including artist, entrepreneur and certified lady boss, has brought her unique machofeminine energy to the art world and Instagram alike.

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At more than 150k followers, Longshore is influencing not only the contemporary Pop Art scene, but also a pack of women hungry for empowerment and a strong-willed, eccentric leader. Her Instagram is saturated with quality content, and in-between 80s aerobic GIFs and other zany bits of media, her paintings stand out as Swarovskistudded pop culture references that juxtapose different iconography.

In one of her pieces, George Washington is depicted in a Supreme ensemble so convincing it could rival any contemporary hypebeast.

Much of her work is meant to be humorous and add an amusing yet crass twist to our expectations.

While she creates art centered around our preconceived ideas about pop culture icons, she also flips the script on the concept of

femininity and societal expectations of womanhood. “This Ain’t The Ritz Carlton Honey” depicts her signature diamond motif underneath the title of the work in a pink bejeweled typeface. Similar mantras, such as “Please No Fake Orgasms and No Bad Credit” and “Work Hard Eat Carbs Spend Money,” all defy traditional clichés meant to dilute the potential of women. Longshore’s intent is to embolden women to be excessive and take up space.

What is also interesting about her work is the implantation of women in consumerist situations. Symbols of glamour, opulence and monetary prosperity are an intrinsic part of her art. The notorious wispy profile of Audrey Hepburn is embellished

with ornate feathers and jewels.

The piercing, lustrous eyes of Frida Kahlo are complimented by a gaudy crown similar to what the Virgin Mary dons in many Catholic interpretations.

Longshore has collaborated with brands like Chloe, Anthropology and Bergdorf Goodman, further associating her work with commercialism.

However, Longshore’s art is about so much more than the frills and haughty antics of elite consumerism.

At her core, Longshore is as much a vibrant satirist as she is an artist. So much of her work is informed by the caricatures of modern America, and even more importantly the ironies and excesses of their existence. In one piece, the stoicism and pompous

aura of Anna Wintour is subdued by carebears, emojis and other relics of our modern age.

Given all of this, Ashley Longshore is completely self-taught and a symbol of relatability. In the scope of Longshore’s work, she is the creator of her own glamorous world, and yet successfully subverts the inaccessibility and highbrow language of the global art scene. Democratizing platforms such as Instagram encourages artists to forgo the traditional methods of self-marketing and put not only their art but their entire personalities on display. While this idea seems very intimidating, Longshore makes a strong case for the curious, offbeat artists of the world to cash in on what makes them so exceptional.

DECEMBER 2018 13

LIFESTYLE

P I L LOW TALK

BY EVA-DELILAH WIELAND, EDITOR IN CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHED BY MOLLY RAPOZO, LIFESTYLE EDITOR

We are all familiar with Pillow Talk from Zayn Malik’s steamy, sultry 2016 hit song. And who could forget the passionate lust between Zayn and his then boo Gigi Hadid in the song’s music video. Oof! Sexy!

But, Pillow Talk is not all about sex. In fact, it is far from the dirty talk we may fantasize or associate with foreplay and a hot hookup. It is, perhaps, the most secure, intimate and honest form of communication two people can share.

Pillow Talk often follows sex, when vulnerability is at its max. When the talk is post-coital, it becomes a space for affirmations between partners, and in the open-hearted after sex glow there is an opportunity to share personal things that otherwise wouldn’t be said.

Oxytocin, otherwise known as the “bonding hormone,” is a chemical released in the brain that comes from physical affection and intimacy— especially intercourse and orgasm.1 This hormone has beautiful effects like decreasing stress, lessening the perceptions of social threat and increasing bonding and emotional Amanda Denes, “Talk: Exploring Disclosures After Sexual Activity,” Western Journal of Communication 76, no. 2 (March 2012): 91-108.

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awareness. It puts people in a state of bliss where trust, relationship satisfaction and attachment can thrive.

But, Pillow Talk is not limited to postcoital time. Being in bed with a partner is an intimate sanctuary where the rest of the world can drift away. It is a comforting and private place where a couple can share dreams, fears, secrets and plans together.

I have found Pillow Talk to be one of the most important and sweet parts of my romantic relationship.

Whenever my partner and I have something important to talk about, we take it to the bedroom. Whether we are making important decisions together, or I just need to cry and tell him about girl drama, there is no place we would rather discuss. We end our days there together, sharing stories and details from the day. We start our days there together with touch, reassurance and motivation.

Whether you are in a committed or a causal relationship, make time for Pillow Talk. It makes us happier, healthier and gives us the opportunity to bond with someone special. Next time you are in bed, leave it all on the pillow.

LIFESTYLE

WARMI N G DR I NKS F O R FI NA L S S EASO N

BY KATE LAWLESS, CONTRIBUTING WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANNIKA IDE

It’s the most wonderful time of the year! Holiday lights are going up, Christmas music is playing everywhere and you’re looking forward to spending some stress-free time with family and friends over break.

rapidly approaching. If you’re like me, you’ll be spending those weeks huddled up in your puffiest jacket in a State Street cafe or wrapped in your fluffiest blanket with a cup of tea, frantically re-learning everything from the semester.

But first, you have to get through the challenging few weeks before finals, when the Wisconsin weather is getting colder and both paper due dates and tests are

In Madison, we are lucky enough to be in walking distance of many coffee shops like Bradbury’s, Michelangelo’s and of course, Starbucks. Around this time of year, many

Chai Tea Latte with Vanilla Peppermint Mocha Recipe For those who aren’t fans of coffee but still want something sweet and festive, a chai tea latte with vanilla is a perfect option. Trust me, it tastes like liquified gingerbread, and chai can be found at pretty much any coffee shop.

Pour Chai concentrate into your mug until it’s less than ⅕ of the way full Mix in vanilla syrup Add in equal parts steamed milk (or milk substitute) and hot water

Peppermint mochas are for the diehard chocolate-lovers. It’s a holiday twist on a classic espresso drink that never disappoints.

of these places unveil winter-themed drinks for both the tea and coffee-lovers.

Whether you’ve got access to espresso machines and milk steamers and are looking to make something new, or you just want some fun holiday drink suggestions, you’ve got loads of options this time of year. So, from a former barista, here are some seasonal drinks that will help you wake up and warm up!

Fill the rest of the mug with steamed milk and swirl the contents around to ensure that the mocha sauce is distributed evenly

Pour traditional mocha sauce into your mug until it’s less than ⅕ of the way full

Top it off with whipped cream and chocolate syrup

Add in a shot of espresso (or more, if you need it)

Toasted White Chocolate Mocha

Splash in a little peppermint syrup. Be careful of how much you put in—it can be an overwhelming flavor

Craving something sweet, but looking for something lighter tasting than a traditional mocha? You’ll love a toasted white chocolate mocha!

DECEMBER 2018 15

Pour white chocolate sauce into your mug until it’s less than ⅕ of the way full

for those seeking out a sweet option.

Pour steamed apple cider until just below the top of your mug

Add in a shot (or more) of espresso Stir in cinnamon syrup with a spoon Add steamed milk up to the top of the mug For the finishing touch, garnish the rim of your mug with crushed graham crackers. Use the milk to help the graham cracker pieces stick the edge of the rim

Steamed Caramel Cinnamon Apple Cider

Not a coffee fan or looking for vegan options? A steamed caramel cinnamon apple cider is a great pick

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For a final flourish, sprinkle some cinnamon on top or add a cinnamon stick

Gingerbread Latte Recipe

Feeling nostalgic for the childhood memories of baking with your family?

Whip up a gingerbread latte!

Fill the rest of the mug with steamed milk Top it off with whipped cream and then sprinkle cinnamon or nutmeg on top

Eggnog Latte Recipe

If you are heading over to a fabulous holiday party, start the night right with an eggnog latte!

Pour a couple splashes of eggnog into your mug Add a shot (or more) of espresso

Put a shot (or more) of espresso into your mug Pour in gingerbread syrup, however strong you’d like

Fill up the rest of the mug with steamed milk To make it more festive, sprinkle some nutmeg, cinnamon or peppermint on top!

luxe

VICTORIA ESTEVES PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAX GOLDBERG DIRECTED BY BROOKE KOMAS WITH ASSISTANCE FROM GLORIA REQUENA LOOKS PROVIDED BY RENT THE RUNWAY

Moda supports cruelty-free brands. All furs used in this shoot are faux.

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DECEMBER 2018 23

LIFESTYLE

B EATIN G T HE HOMESI C K B LU E S

BY MOLLY RAPOZO, LIFESTYLE EDITOR PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNIKA IDE You feel that? That little heart pang that hits you square in your chest when you’re happy and smiling and looking at pictures from last winter break? Maybe you were out with friends from home, or at your favorite restaurant, or simply enjoying a walk and found beautiful flowers in your neighbor’s yard that you had to snap a picture of.

That little pang hits deep, and it sometimes smacks you back into your seat. You might feel

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a sinking feeling. And then, confusion sets in.

Why are you sad? This should be a happy thing, a sweet memory that comforts. Not something that hurts.

This is a pretty personal story of mine— I’m homesick. All the time. Anywhere and everywhere. No matter what I’m doing or where I am, I consistently struggle with the wish to be home.

I walk around and constantly talk about home—Austin, Texas—how great it is and how much I miss it, which I think is probably a therapeutic thing my brain is does to make my heart feel a little better.

These intense homesickness struggles have taken up a lot of my time since stepping foot on the UW campus freshman year. In all honesty, not a day goes by that I don’t wish I had stayed in Austin.

Realistically speaking, I love Madison.

The beautiful and inspiring people I’ve met here and all the fun things we’ve done together—I wouldn’t change that if given the opportunity. My lifelong friends have been made here. But, a part of me will always long for Texas.

If for whatever reason you can’t change your situation, and you’re stuck in a place that feels wrong at times, but perfect in others, the feelings of homesickness can be pretty debilitating and crushing.

They’ll cause you to cycle through sadness and regret—and then guilt for not enjoying where you are more.

But, remembering that this whole thing—life, your feelings, this moment—is completely temporary is a great place to begin to move on.

Those years of longing have led me to figure out just how to combat the feelings and get through them. To anyone struggling with homesickness—hopefully I can offer my own experience as a guide on how to make it through.

I’ve found that when that zap, pang or punch in the face—whatever you want to call it—hits, all I want to do is look at more pictures and memories.

If this one hurt, maybe the next three pictures from that day will just be happier and more comforting.

First, start by taking that pang as what it is—a little jolt of sadness. It is not a wave, it has no weight to it and it does not carry anything else. Allowing the sadness to wash over you, as a wave does, but to not pull you under

the current is key to getting out of the thick of homesickness. Acknowledge it and move on.

by. Allow your loved ones to help you; that’s why they’re there. They know you better than most.

At this point, I advise you: put down the phone. Open a book, write in a journal or do something else that brings you pure joy in the present moment. Keyword being present.

Anything you think of in the past won’t help at this moment.

Physical reminders of home are often a great way to keep you comforted and happy as well. Try to keep these things physical and tangible—they’ll keep you in the present moment and less in the past. For me, I have a bluebonnet candle—the Texas state flower—to light up when I need a small thing to help me out. The scent, as well as the look of a burning candle, is naturally calming—and the reminder of home in association helps to bring me back down from any wave of freak-out that I’m having.

Presence is key to tackling the beast of homesickness. I’m not a present person—if I’m not looking back, I’m looking straight ahead, making lists and dreaming up ideas for the future. I make plans with people that I haven’t even discussed with them yet, hoping they’ll jump on board.

The problem with this is that you’re never really here. And here—here is the moment that you’ll be wanting later. Here is the moment where the memories and happy thoughts are made to look back on. How can you do that when you’re looking forward or behind?

Presence means a number of things to everyone, but one thing in particular that is mentioned a lot with the word is meditation. Meditation is a perfect technique for centering yourself and understanding your place within the world. Our brains are time-travel masters, and meditation is what pulls them back and reminds them that their place is the current moment.

If you’ve got a hold of yourself and are in the current moment—call home.

Call whoever is home to you. A family member, a friend or a loved one—just give them a ring. The sound of their voice can often bring a great comfort, and more often than not, can remind you that you’re not missing out on things.

A great thing about calls from loved ones: they’ll be able to remind you of the temporariness of your absence.

My mother is fantastic at putting me in my place and making countdowns between visits. Keeping track of the weeks or days until you are home puts a lot of things in perspective, and oftentimes those days and weeks fly

Above all, be kind to yourself. The guilt following the sadness of missing home sets in quickly. Guilt for not appreciating the current moment, not loving where you’re at or making a bad choice. Guilt has a way with words—it can really kick you while you’re down.

Speak kind words to yourself, use physical comforts and put yourself into the things you love the most.

Fill the cracks that guilt and sadness leave behind with your friends around you in the current moment—maybe on a nice, long walk.

Fill them with a good, home-cooked meal, paired with dancing around the kitchen while you work away. Or, fill the cracks with productivity—taking the time to finish what you need to do so that next time you’re home, you can let go completely and put all your time into being where you love.

Anything that feels kind and good to you is something worth putting time and effort towards.

It can feel like life or death— homesickness is no small emotion.

College years are transitional and cause a lot of inexperienced feelings to fester and make small holes in your heart where there haven’t been holes before. Knowing that the feelings are temporary, that you are alive in the present moment and that things will work out just fine are great ways to start fighting the beast that is longing for a place called home.

DECEMBER 2018 25

LIFESTYLE

M UG S W IT H M O DA WRITTEN BY THE MODA STAFF PHOTOGRAPHED BY MOLLY RAPOZO

PEET’S COFFEE

Ashleigh Perry, Events Coordinator My order is specific—hot chocolate with coconut milk. I can feel the warmth radiating from the cup the moment I lay eyes on it. First sip, whipped cream with sprinkles of cocoa powder. Second sip, more whipped cream—but I’m not complaining. On the third sip, I finally get a taste of the creamy hot chocolate waiting beneath. It’s incomparable, almost like decadent chocolate that was melted down without any interference. The sweetness of the coconut milk enhances the chocolate in a way that traditional dairy milk never could. For a short time, I am lost in a chocolate wonderland.

FAIR TRADE COFFEE HOUSE

Ariana King, Contributing Writer Decked with whipphed cream and chocolate sprinkles on top, Fair Trade’s hot chocolate is a light, yet delicious dessert. Buttery and fluffy, the liquid warms your tongue and fills you up on a cold winter day. Its richness leaves you feeling satisfied well after you’ve finished your treat, lingering in your belly for hours to come. All in all, it’s a satisfying delicacy—the definition of what hot chocolate should be.

ESPRESSO ROYALE

Eden Breslow, Contributing Writer Walking into the State Street cafe, I shell out three dollars for the

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one thing on my mind: hot cocoa.

The presentation is admirable, the temperature just right—but the flavor is ultimately lacking. I take my chocolate very seriously, and this is more parts milk than cocoa. Although it gives me a case of the warm fuzzies, the bottled chocolate milk from Gordon’s has more flavor than this disappointing cup of warm foam.

CARIBOU COFFEE

Katie Herrick, Lifestyle Editorial Assistant While it’s definitely better than the Swiss Miss packets you make at home, the Caribou hot chocolate is powdery and lacks a super chocolatey flavor.

The presentation is on-point with whipped cream and a sprinkling of mini chocolate chips, and the texture is nice and creamy, but overall, lacking a real wow factor. I may be a harsher critic than most because hot cocoa isn’t my go-to, but this isn’t something I would spend $4 on again.

COLECTIVO

Eva-Delilah Wieland, Editor In Chief A special, scrumptious, cozy treat!

Although I have been making my own hot cocoas with the Colectivo at-home mix, this was my first time ordering one from the cafe. The barista put some serious effort into this drink, spending at least five minutes stirring, steaming and creating beautiful latte-like art on the top. This drink’s flavor—and aesthetic—far surpassed

anything I could make on my own.

At $3.25, I splurged and ordered the large—and I am so glad I did. Despite its richness, I drank every last sip, and the beautiful flowerette on top lasted until the very end.

ANCORA

Molly Rapozo, Lifestyle Editor Ancora knows how to foam. I’m talking a thick, creamy layer. Now, I know that this is not the traditional pairing to a good hot chocolate. The fact that I requested no whipped cream might even be sacrilegious to some avid hot cocoa lovers. However, this foam layer was so bubbly that it worked.

How thick are we talking? The actual liquid took a few seconds to reach my mouth. That thick. The hot chocolate itself was not quite as rich as I’m used to. This was quite a bit milkier, but I still enjoyed it. Maybe I was just really jazzed about that foam.

MICHELANGELO’S

Kate Lawless, Contributing Writer I can honestly say Michelangelo’s has some of the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had. It’s topped with whipped cream, which I scooped off with a spoon and ate immediately because it’s one of my guilty pleasure foods.

The hot chocolate itself is a perfect warm temperature, and it’s rich, but definitely not heavy. It’s not bitter, not too watery—a perfect ratio of chocolatey goodness.

LIFESTYLE

curl YOUR ENTHUSIASM

CASSIE HURWITZ, GEORDON WOLLNER, KATIE HERRICK, TAYLOR LAURI, BEN GOLDEN, CIARA BRIDGES, LILLIAN OLSON, JOICELYN BRENSON, LUNA GULED AND ADJUA NSOROMA PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOSH REDFEARN DIRECTED BY CASSIE HURWITZ, GEORDON WOLLNER AND KATIE HERRICK DECEMBER 2018 27

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DECEMBER 2018 29

LIFESTYLE

THE FAKES ARE BLENDING IN AND WE CAN’T BRUSH IT OFF

BY CHARLOTTE MUIR, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATION BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR It’s a sad feeling when you go into a makeup store and realize that everything is too expensive for a college student such as yourself.

You leave the store with only the swatches on your hand and a desire for that one luxury palette.

What if you could purchase a Kylie Lip Kit or Anastasia Beverly Hills

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Palette for a fraction of the retail price? Most people would jump at the chance, and many people have.

But, there’s a catch.

The luxury makeup products that you see being sold cheap as chips in market stalls and online are most likely fake. With the makeup industry sales rising by 12 percent in

2016 and continuing to increase,1 the Department of Homeland Security is seeing the counterfeit beauty market rise as well.2 Beauty influencers and celebrities are pushing the makeup industry forward, making it easier for novelty makeup lovers to create professional looks. Although the tutorials make them simpler, they don’t make them affordable. Beauty influencers are selling luxury brands to consumers who don’t always have the funds.

In the past, drugstore makeup has been the key to consumers affording the latest and greatest. A luxury makeup item becomes popular and drugstore brands create similar products for affordable prices.

However, as makeup trends and beauty blends make their way through the internet, luxury brands are being plugged to us at all angles. Beauty influencers are selling luxury makeup brands, and often, that is all they are selling—the brand. Brands often become more important than the makeup. Enter, the counterfeit market.

The counterfeit market is not new to consumers. Designer knockoffs have been around a long time; I have a few friends myself who have come back from China with fake Louis Vuitton handbags. But, there is a significant difference between a knock-off handbag and a knock-off Kylie Lip Kit. Makeup items are applied directly to the face and lipsticks are partially consumed. You want to be confident that what you put on your face is being regulated and safe. The counterfeit market is not only unregulated, but it’s based off an immoral and illegal way to make money. The counterfeit market will dive into anything—the Centers for Disease Control and Makeup Industry Reached $17 Billion in Sales,” NPD Group.

2 Morgan Shanahan, “Counterfeit Makeup: The New Threat to Your Skin Popping up Everywhere,” Babble, April 21, 2016.

1“

Prevention estimate 10-30 percent of medicine in third world countries is counterfeit.3 With fake medicine being sold to real sick people, safety is not the first priority the people in this business are concerned with.

buying a fake and simply think they are getting a good deal. Two, they know they are buying the fake but they don’t care—they want the brand and the feeling and status that comes with owning it.

Further, brands have an obligation to not only play by the rules but also ensure that consumers are happy with their products. If consumers are not happy with their products, if they have a bad reaction or something doesn’t work, that brand wouldn’t survive.

The counterfeit market doesn’t have that problem; they are hiding behind another established brand and couldn’t care less.

Regardless of the reason, the people behind these knockoffs are reaping the benefits while consumers are harmed. Here are a few steps to ensure that you don’t unknowingly purchase a dodgy dupe:

So, are these fake products safe to put on your face?

Many different sources such as the FBI, CBS, Inside Edition, Estee Lauder and Anastasia Beverly Hills have run lab tests on counterfeit makeup and have come back with horrifying results.

Toxic levels of lead, bacteria, arsenic, mercury, carcinogens and waste— from both humans and animals— have all been found in the products tested. This is not a surprising result after seeing pictures of some of the conditions that the products are made in.

The terrifying lab results aside, take a moment to watch YouTubers testing out fake makeup products— you will be amazed at how poorly they perform. Eyeshadows aren’t pigmented, foundation is wet and difficult to blend, lipstick crusts and none of it lasts. After wiping it all away, many consumers have reported rashes, eye infections and, in some cases, permanent scarring.

How can the counterfeit beauty market still be booming, then? There are two reasons why someone might purchase a counterfeit makeup item.

One, they are unaware they are

1. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. Although we all love a bargain, it’s not worth buying a product that isn’t quality. If you can’t afford the luxury splurge—go for a drugstore product. There are plenty of fabulous drugstore products that are safe to use and don’t cost a fortune. Just because it doesn’t have a big name brand doesn’t mean it’s not worth its salt.

2. Purchase from the brand’s store or verified sellers. The safest way to go is straight from the source. But, you can normally find a list of verified sellers on the brand’s website or shoot their customer service team a message to check if you are buying from a reputable third-party site.

3. If you do purchase something elsewhere—do a check over before you use it. Are there any obvious spelling mistakes or font mismatches?

Does it smell off? If so, it’s best to put it down. It’s much better to lose a few dollars than to end up with an eye infection.

Next time you walk out of a makeup store with nothing but swatches on your hand and an aching for a new highlighter, consider why you really want it. Let’s start to put emphasis back on the quality of the product.

Purchase makeup for how it adds to your dewy finish and not to your social status.

“Travelers’ Health,” Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, October 23, 2017.

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DECEMBER 2018 31

CULTURE

D RESSED TO KI L L THE HARMFUL REALITY OF FAST FASHION

BY ALLYSON KONZ, CULTURE STAFF WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY NICOLE SHIELDS

In the wake of Black Friday and the midst of the holiday season, there are tons of things to buy for family, friends and, realistically, yourself. The last thing you probably want to do is put a detrimental dent in your savings account. But this year, consider what you are purchasing—the clothes you’re buying may be doing more damage than you think. They could be products of fast fashion.

Fast fashion is a business model founded on the principle of producing and selling cheap, trendy clothing.

Traditional fashion cycles change every fall/spring or summer/winter.

Fast fashion, on the other hand, runs on a 52-week cycle. Cheap clothing may be enticing, but the $20 or $30 you save from consuming fast fashion cannot account for its true costs; the price tag of an H&M or Zara blouse does not include t h e cost of

pollution-induced lung damage, polluted water, human rights issues, displaced economies or environmental degradation.1 At a time when the push for sustainability is at the forefront of our political discussions and Twitter timelines, we must also confront the fashion industry’s impact on the environment.

One of fashion’s detrimental impacts is water pollution. The microfibers of polyester, a popular material for clothing, cannot be completely filtered out of the water used to make clothing because they are so small.

Tiny pieces of plastic left over in the water used in production are then ingested by plankton in the ocean or freshwater bodies; they make their way back up to the food chain, to the fish or other seafood we consume. Water pollution can also be traced to cotton production, one of the heftiest culprits.

When crunching the numbers, roughly 20 1The True Cost, directed by Andrew Morgan, 2015.

percent of water contamination in the world can be traced back cotton production and dying processes.2 Human rights issues related to the fast fashion industry began garnering global attention in April 2013. The Rana Plaza, a clothing factory in Bangladesh, collapsed due to multiple fires and building code violations, killing 1,100 people and injuring thousands of others. Although more than 70 percent of fire and building hazards in Bangladesh have been eliminated since 2013, other issues on labor and human rights persist.3 Loopholes in the industry allow companies to pay factory laborers under the minimum wage (this number comes to the paltry amount of 39 cents in Bangladesh). Shifts can go anywhere from 12-16 hours, during which some employees are scolded for taking bathroom breaks.4 Fast fashion can also displace struggling economies in places that that do not have financial security like the United States or the United Kingdom. For example, the unsold merchandise produced for the Super Bowl is sometimes shipped to countries in Africa or Central America, and they in turn displace local retail businesses—local vendors often lose out in the competition for profit in the retail market when their target consumers are receiving the same types of goods they’re selling for free.

And the clothes that aren’t donated?

2“Fashion and Water: The Thirsty Industry,” Good On You, February 21, 2018.

3Nadra Nittle, “After the Rana Plaza Collapse, Are Garment Workers Any Safer?” Racked, April 13, 2018.

4“Fast-fashion Factory Workers Paid 39c an Hour: Report,” The New Daily, October 29, 2017.

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Companies would rather burn than sell their clothing in order to protect the exclusivity and brand prestige.

Burberry, for instance, burned $37.8 million of clothing in 2017 instead of discounting their products.

On the other hand, some clothing companies are working to reduce their carbon footprint and environmental impact. Reformation, a Los Angelesbased clothing company, is one such company. It prides itself in its sustainability. Every pair of jeans Reformation produces saves a staggering 1,468 gallons of water compared to those produced by other companies. It also prides itself in using eco-friendly materials, recycling 75 percent of its waste and creating products with the least harm to the environment as possible.5 But the responsibility to normalize sustainable fashion cannot lie only in the hands of fashion producers; individual efforts matter as well.

Everyone can buy less clothes.

Minimalism is a great way to make sure your purchases are purposeful instead of impulsive. When you can, opt for high-quality, practical clothing over the tempting low-quality pieces.

Investing in sustainable fashion means investing in clothes that last longer and that you will take better care of—maybe you just won’t have to keep buying a new pair of jeans every year. And don’t forget, with some patience and persistence, you may discover the best hidden gems of all through thrift-shopping—that’s all recyclable fashion.

As you continue your holiday shopping, stop and consider the true cost of the blouse in your hands—it’s often more than what the price tag says. Is it exploiting communities and putting them at risk? Is it a necessity or a want? Stop, think and let go of a few items if you have to. Manufacturers won’t keep producing items unless they find them lucrative—know that you have the power to reshape the clothing industry.

F R OM P L AST IC TO P LUSH

BY EMILY BIAN, CULTURE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT “Exceptional quality. Ethical factories. Radical Transparency.”1 Retail company Everlane is eliminating the use of virgin plastic from their latest collection, instead recycling “ocean plastic” to make new materials and textiles.

Everlane has proven that it is possible to transform plastic bottles to plush, comfy clothing by replacing virgin synthetic fibers—like those found in yarns and fabrics—with upcycled plastic. ReNew, announced October 24, is a seasonal line of outerwear and layers crafted from materials made from three million recycled plastic bottles.

Michael Preysman, CEO, believes that “companies have to take the lead, and any company that hasn’t made this commitment is actively choosing to not improve our environment.”2 Leading by example, Everlane plans to eliminate all newly-manufactured plastic from its supply chain by 2021.

But developing a technology that would enable that is much easier said than done. Preysman points to ReNew as an example.

“ReNew took us over two years to develop because the materials simply weren’t out there. We wanted sustainability without sacrificing quality or price. That was tough.”3 Each puffer jacket reuses 16 recycled bottles; a fleece sweatshirt uses 35; a zip fleece uses 41; and two parkas, long and short, uses 60 and 55 respectively. Everlane is not only successful in taking the first step toward decreasing consumption of newly-manufactured plastic, but it is also setting an example for other companies by saying, “hey, we did it—you can do it too.”

1“About,” Everlane.

3Whitney Bauck, “How Everlane Plans to Rid Its Entire Supply Chain of Virgin Plastic,” Fashionista, October 22, 2018.

4Matt Sebra, “Everlane’s ReNew Collection: Good Clothes for a Good Cause,” GQ, October 22, 2018.

5“Sustainable Practices,” Reformation.

DECEMBER 2018 33

LIFESTYLE

HIGH BEAUTY STANDARDS: THE POPULARIZATION OF CBD PRODUCTS WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH, ART CURATOR About a week ago, I wandered into Community Pharmacy on State Street with the hopes of finding a solution to my insomnia. My depression and anxiety often keep me up at night, and I went in search of a natural method.

Putting herbal teas before medication isn’t usually my style, but I was eager to try anything.

The store was softly lit and smelled of lavender and mint. I wandered the aisles of oils, balms and herbs before stumbling upon an aisle of CBD products.

I pulled an employee over. “Is this even legal?” He laughed.

CBD is a compound made from the cannabis plant. Differing from marijuana, CBD products contain little or no THC— which is the psychoactive compound responsible for that “high” feeling. CBD is to hemp as THC is to marijuana.

On November 6, Wisconsin voters in 16 counties and two cities voted on a non-binding legalization referendum.

The vote passed everywhere.

Though CBD beauty products may seem like a trendy fad, people have been using CBD and marijuana for its pain-relieving symptoms for ages, and use of cannabis products is becoming more acceptable. The plant has been used dating back to ancient Egypt.

For myself and many others, anxiety comes in two parts. There is the psychological aspect—the racing thoughts and overwhelming feelings of stress. Then there is the physical—a generally raw feeling, increased heart rate, dizziness and shortness of breath. CBD targets both concerns.

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Director of the National Institute on Drug Abuse, Nora D. Volkow, presented her findings on the anti-anxiety effects of cannabidiol back in 2015. “CBD has shown therapeutic efficacy in a range of animal models of anxiety and stress, reducing both behavioral and physiological (e.g., heart rate) measures of stress and anxiety.”1 My favorite CBD product I tried was Inesscents’ Balance Beauty Balm. The moisturizing salve sells for about $20 and smells like chamomile tea. At first, it felt a little oily on my skin but was easy to rub in. I felt the effects almost immediately. I often find myself clenching my jaw or shoulders, but I instantly felt more relaxed.

I was skeptical at first: was it just placebo? Was I playing into some far-out CBD fantasy? As I continued to use it throughout the week, I continued to feel the relaxing and clarifying effects. I recommend the product to those looking to dip their toes in the immense and growing pool of CBD beauty products.

land dedicated to farming cannabis than all other states combined. When marijuana was criminalized in 1937, Wisconsin lost an important crop. We have yet to get it back.

Because of Wisconsin’s agricultural infrastructure, introducing a new and exciting crop could resurge the economy.

Wisconsin State Representative Melissa Sargent’s proposed legalization bill promised to bring in over $100 million in the fiscal year of 2020.2 But what does legalization mean for beauty? It means combining the functional and the fun. It could mean improving internal wellness and external confidence.

Don’t be afraid to hold yourself to higher beauty standards.

I bragged to my friends about my magical balm, and they shared my initial skepticism.

Cannabis as a medical solution isn’t considered serious. The use of CBD in health and beauty products is a step in the direction of erasing the stigma cannabis carries.

In the early 1900s, Wisconsin had more 1 Nora D. Volkow, “Cannabidiol: Barriers to Research and Potential Medical Benefits,” National Institute of Drug Abuse, June 25, 2015

2 Wisconsin Department of Administration, “Fiscal Estimate 2017,” September 11, 2017

DECEMBER 2018 35

FASHION

THE TOP LUXURY BRANDS OF 2018

BY KASEY BUSIEL, FASHION STAFF WRITER IMAGES COURTESY OF FASHIONISTA & THE IMPRESSION In recent years, the luxury fashion industry has grown at a recordbreaking pace by introducing new, visionary designs. The products sold by these glamorous companies are of the highest quality with price points to match. By focusing on brand image, quality materials and exceptional craftsmanship, luxury brands transform their products into symbols of style and status. Quality, however, is not the only ingredient that makes consumers fall headover-heels for designer brands; exclusivity entices consumers to drop big bucks to satisfy their lust to exude status.

placed 35th on Forbes’ list of The World’s 100 Most Valuable Brands.¹ The Hermes Fashion House was originally established as a handcrafted horse harness shop in 1837 by Thierry Hermes. It was not until 1922 that the company released its first handbags and 1929 that the first women’s fashion apparel collection debuted in Paris.2 Although Hermes carries a multitude of products ranging from

The top global luxury brand of 2018 is Louis Vuitton, valued at $33.6 billion with $12.9 billion in annual revenue.

These massive figures landed Louis Vuitton as 15th on Forbes’ list of The World’s 100 Most Valuable Brands.1 The brand’s essence attracts consumers with timeless yet fashion-forward designs and conspicuous monogram print accessories.

Louis Vuitton is anything but modest when it comes to advertising the brand image.

The brand’s ad campaigns scream luxury, as supermodels and celebrities stroll through exotic destinations dripping in high-priced, captivating apparel.

apparel, perfume, jewelry, scarves, footwear and more, their exclusive handbags, including their iconic Birkin bags, will forever be an unforgettable signature look.

Hermes, another French fashion house, ranks second of the top luxury brands of 2018. The company boasts a brand value $15.3 billion and $6 billion in sales for the year. No wonder Hermes

Following behind Hermes on Forbes’ list is Gucci taking the 36th spot.¹ The Italian luxury brand of fashion and leather goods was founded by Guccio Gucci in Florence in 1921. Working

1“The World’s Most Valuable Brands,” Forbes, 2018.

2Sammy Said, “Hermes: The 175-Year Old French Fashion Empire,” TheRichest, May 22, 2013.

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with skilled Tuscan artisans, Gucci initially began selling leather bags to horsemen. Over time, the leather bags were transformed into luxury bags.3 Today, the company designs bags, apparel, jewelry, watches, beauty products and home decor. Beginning in 2015, Alessandro Michele, a quirky, unknown visionary, was appointed as creative director of Gucci. Michele’s inspiration from his hippie, antiqueinspired personal style has given Gucci an exciting new twist. Holding a brand value of $14.9 billion and an annual revenue of $6.7 billion, it is easy to understand consumers’ loyal admiration for the company. Gucci’s prominent reputation is made evident by their promise to customers: “eclectic, c o n t e m p o r a r y, romantic—Gucci products represent the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship and are unsurpassed for their quality and attention to detail.”

Other famous luxury brands that secured a spot on Forbes’ list of the ‘World’s Most Valuable Brands’ include #59 Cartier, #71 Rolex and #87 Chanel.¹ These plush brands are globally known for their status and iconic products. With six luxury fashion companies making Forbes’ annual list, it is obvious the luxury fashion industry is growing at a rate faster than ever. The fashion industry gives off an exclusionary, mysterious essence that the public craves to be a part of. As companies continue to flourish and prices continue to rise, the scarceness of these products will only make demand skyrocket.

3“Gucci Success Story,” SuccessStory, 2018.

UNDER THE WIRE

NIKKI ERDMANN PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORDON WOLLNER DIRECTED BY REILLY KOCH & GEORDON WOLLNER WITH ASSISTANCE FROM KATIE HERRICK & ANGIE NGUYEN DECEMBER 2018 37

NOVEMBER 2018 41

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LIFESTYLE

RIHANNA’S REIGN

THE SUPERSTAR TURNED BUSINESSWOMAN IS REDEFINING BEAUTY STANDARDS

BY ELISE ANDERSEN, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY KAITLIN BANAFSHEHA Releasing a new beauty product or fashion line into the hands of the public is a cutthroat act in modern-day society. It seems like as soon as a new item hits shelves, an intense wave of backlash washes over the product itself and the company behind it. Constant controversy over exclusivity—racism, transphobia and sexism—as well as pricing and quality, dominates the beauty and fashion world.

Everyone can probably think of a time when a brand did something a little

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questionable or uncontentious—think back to when Abercrombie & Fitch’s former CEO stated that he didn’t want “larger people” shopping at his stores, or when H&M came out with a kid’s t-shirt in early 2018 that featured an ethnic slur. More recently, Victoria’s Secret’s Chief Marketing Officer stated in an interview that transgender and plus-size models “do not belong” in the renowned Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show and Dolce & Gabbana released a racist ad in China, causing consumer uproar.

While it’s easy to pick out instances where companies went wrong in their marketing campaigns or in the product itself, it’s rare to find a brand being celebrated for what they’re doing right.

Music and fashion icon Rihanna has taken it upon herself to create both beauty and fashion lines that deliver quality products while simultaneously honoring the unique differences found in each and every individual.

The launch of her makeup line Fenty Beauty in September 2017 was a huge success in terms of business and recognition. Not only does Fenty Beauty offer high-quality makeup products at a relatively affordable price, but Rihanna also makes sure to place a strong emphasis on inclusivity.

so-well-known models. Supermodel sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid seemed to blend in with the rest of the ethnically and proportionally diverse cast. Highlights of the show included visibly pregnant models Slick Woods and Janina Thompson, as well as plussize model Raisa Thomas.

With a foundation collection made up of 40 shades and an ad campaign featuring a diverse array of models, Queen Riri stopped at nothing to make sure that everyone interested in her brand felt included.

Even the concept of the debut show was meant to push society’s standards for what is considered beautiful and fashionable. Instead of focusing on the fact that the models were wearing minimal clothing, the vibe of the show was much more interesting and thought-provoking.

The superstar stated that she was inspired to create Fenty Beauty “after years of experimenting with the best-of-the-best in beauty—and still seeing a void in the industry for products that performed across all skin types and tones.”1 The public responded graciously to her makeup endeavors, allowing the cosmetics line to rake in $72 million in sales during its first month. Fenty Beauty even earned a spot on TIME Magazine’s list of the 25 Best Inventions of 2017, the number one reason why being the brand’s inclusivity.2 After reflecting on the incredible success of her makeup line, Rihanna decided to broaden her horizons by venturing into the world of lingerie.

Savage x Fenty is Rihanna’s latest brainchild, a line of intimates that “complements a variety of shapes and sizes…[and] celebrates fearlessness, confidence and inclusivity.”3 The brand offers everything from everyday basics to more provocative pieces in sizes from XS to 3X at an accessible price point in order to provide lingerie for everyone.

When Rihanna released her lingerie line at New York Fashion Week in early September of 2018, the media was all abuzz in anticipation for what was to come. The show featured a model cast made up of both famous and not“Fenty Beauty by Rihanna | About,” Fenty Beauty.

2 Yasmine Gray, “5 Reasons Why Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty Was Named One of TIME’s Best Inventions of 2017,” Billboard.

3 “About Us,” SAVAGE X FENTY. 1

Described by Vox as a “lush, surreally Edenic performance piece,” the room was dimly lit, and the runway featured a pond and botanical domes.4 The typical “model walk” was less popular, as models moved in slow motion, danced and crawled on all fours.

In an interview with The New York Times, Rihanna explained that the idea behind the show was “mixing the organic with the futuristic, or what we hope to see in the future—women being celebrated in all forms and all body types and all races and cultures.”5 What Rihanna is doing through Fenty Beauty and Savage x Fenty is utterly refreshing in today’s day and age.

Most fashion and beauty companies are notorious for using a cookie-cutter template when it comes to both their products and their runway shows.

Many of the models look the same in terms of color and size, reflecting only a small percentage of the population that is watching these campaigns.

The constant exposure to the relatively unattainable figures that supermodels sport can be detrimental to one’s selfconfidence. As Rihanna states, “I think it’s a shame women have to feel insecure or self-conscious about how their bodies look.

Eliza Brooke, “Rihanna Is Mostly Succeeding in Her Mission to Make a More Inclusive Lingerie Line,” Vox. 5 Steven Kurutz, “Rihanna Talks Lingerie, Body Positivity and Her ‘Battle’ With Social Media,” The New York Times.

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They’ve been taught by society that only one thing works.”6 While some may be able to watch the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show without feeling a hit to their selfesteem, the lack of diversity present in modern-day fashion and beauty is undoubtedly frustrating and quite honestly, boring.

Rihanna took the epitome of sexiness and appeal—lingerie—and transformed it from something we wear to impress our partners, to something we wear to feel confident in our own skin. As she said in an interview with Vogue, “women should be wearing lingerie for their damn selves.”7 Savage x Fenty seems to be on track to be just as successful as its sister brand Fenty Beauty because of its efforts in terms of inclusivity. By featuring wearable, affordable pieces on a wildly mixed assortment of models, Rihanna makes diversity look easy. It’s the kind of diversity that we as consumers barely even define as such because we are too enraptured by the pure essence of the brand itself.

We don’t feel a fake sense of progressiveness in Rihanna’s brands— she created Fenty Beauty and Savage x Fenty on the principle of inclusivity.

This value is at the core of who she is, and she works hard to make sure that this standard is clear in everything that she pursues.

Rihanna’s work through her beauty and lingerie lines exemplifies what a forward-looking brand should be doing in order to stay relevant. Her endeavors in business don’t seem to be slowing down anytime soon, as she states, “I love to be creative, whether it is lingerie, music, makeup, design, apparel. I am never gonna get bored out here. That is the good news.”8 Good news indeed, Riri.

Steff Yotka, “At Savage X Fenty’s Runway Show, All Women Are Goddesses,” Vogue.

7 Steff Yotka, “Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty Launch: Everything You Need to Know,” Vogue.

8“Rihanna Doesn’t Use Word Mogul to Describe Herself,” Rihanna Online.

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DECEMBER 2018 45

CULTURE

T H E COSTS OF A D OPTI ON HOW ADOPTION AFFECTS INDIVIDUALS AND SOCIETY

BY ARIANA KING, CONTRIBUTING WRITER ILLUSTRATED BY HAIDEE CHU, CULTURE EDITOR When most kids ask where they came from, they’re often told the tales of the storks or the birds and the bees. But the experience is a little different for adoptees like myself. Adoption—the greatest and most tragic gift I’ve ever received—can be hard to explain to children, but my mom made her best attempt. Opening up the scrapbook she made from her trips to China, she’d read my sister and I our “stork story.”

Once, there were two parents who loved their daughters very much but couldn’t keep them for reasons she didn’t know.

That was the hardest decision of their lives, but they did it hoping to give their children a better life.

While my mom obviously put a positive spin on the situation and assumed our birth parents were loving and caring, she never ignored the fact that adoption is, first and foremost, a story of loss for those involved. In politics, adoption is often viewed as a win-win situation because parents who want children get them, and children who need homes recieve them.1 It’s a pleasing narrative that gets many people to support domestic and international adoption, but it does not reveal the reality of adoption.

While I am grateful for the life I have now, I’m nonetheless reminded of the enormous costs of adoption—on a personal, emotional and societal level.

Everyone loses something in adoption.

Clearly, adoption means loss of a child for the birth families. They either give up the ability to watch their child grow or, in the case of open adoption, have to take a back seat to the adoptive families. But the adoption can be emotionally difficult also for the adoptive parents, even if it’s generally 1 Kathryn Joyce, The Child Catchers (New York: Public Affairs, 2013), xvi.

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unacknowledged. In many cases, the adoptive families only turn to adoption after failed fertility treatments— adopting a child can mean letting go of the dream of ever having biological children. Plus, international adoptees like myself who go through closed adoptions—meaning the birth family has no contact with the child after relinquishing their parental rights— lose all knowledge of our family histories, language and culture. We were born in one place and raised in another, always struggling to balance ethnic and cultural identity.

Adoption-related issues and trauma also leave lifelong scars that never truly go away. Growing up with a loss is difficult in and of itself, but it’s all the more challenging when you are constantly told that your loss is not valid because you’ve “found your forever family now.” From personal experience, I can attest that being an adoptee has had significant impacts on my mental health from early childhood into my college years. These negative effects don’t just affect me but my entire family. Sometimes, they make a family bond stronger; other times, they don’t.

Unfortunately, many professionals who work in the adoption industry do not acknowledge these problems.

When I first came home to the United States, my mom was worried out of her mind because of her baby’s night terrors, but the adoption agency told her this post traumatic stress disorder was “just part of the transition.” Even today, my deeply rooted trust issues and fear of abandonment are often brushed aside by friends and family as normal problems of adolescence.

To be fair, it is true that many people

my age struggle with trust and managing interpersonal relationships, but adoption always adds an extra layer that makes things a bit more complicated for adoptees than for those who have not experienced it.

Even on a less personal level, the ethical issues surrounding adoption policy damage many lives and point to extreme flaws in society. For one, demand for adoptions can lead to human trafficking. Journalist Kathryn Joyce, author of The Child Catchers, argues that modern international adoption can be seen as a supplyand-demand chain where high demand from Western parents motivates traffickers to take children and pretend they are orphans to gain economic profit despite naturally low supply of legitimate orphans.2 A motivation for such atrocity is the lucrative nature of international adoption.3 While hefty adoption fees, usually ranging from $20,000 to $35,000 for a single adoption, are much more expensive than projects to support kids in their home countries, Westerners are often much more willing to put money into international adoption fees than locally based solutions.4 High demand for young, healthy infants, met with low supply, only exacerbates incentive for traffickers to steal children and claim they’re orphans, since Westerners have made it clear they will pay high prices to adopt children.

To fulfill this international supply chain, governments and traffickers in the U.S. and abroad alike often abuse the rights of birth mothers.

2Ibid., 76, 131-132.

3Ibid., 133.

4Ibid., 64, 170-171, 236-237, 289

For example, from 1945 to 1972—the Baby Scoop Era, when abortion was not yet legal—many unmarried U.S. mothers were manipulated into giving up their children in a variety of ways, including moral humiliation, isolation or even by having birthmothers sign relinquishment papers while they’re still under heavy labor–related drugs.5 Similar attacks on birth mothers’ rights also occur in Korea, where maternity homes pressure birth mothers to give up their children through stigma and shame.6 This is only intensified by the largely sexually conservative Korean culture, where discrimination against unwed, single mothers and their children is common.7 While children who truly need homes should be placed with adoptive families, questions about the ethics of adoption and the general dismissal of locally-based solutions are convincing 5Ibid., 88-90.

6Ibid., 267.

7Ibid., 268, 270.

reasons to challenge the notion that international adoptions are win-win solutions. These concerns may actually reveal evidence that point to the idea that adoptions are, especially in cases with questionable ethics, lose-lose situations that bring unnecessary hardship and trauma to everyone involved.

But now, the first wave of international adoptees are rising up to fight for adoption rights in their birth countries.

In 2012, a group of Korean adoptees and allies led by Jane Jeong Trenka succeeded in lobbying the Korean National Assembly to pass the Special Adoption Law. The law discourages international adoption and increases the rights of birthmothers. It forbids adoption until seven days after the child’s birth and allows birthmothers to annul their adoption application up to six months after the fact. It also mandates mothers who chose adoption legally consent and register their child’s birth. Although Korea’s

ratification of the Special Adoption Law is a momentous first step toward increasing ethical standards in international adoption, there is more work to be done.8 Another tide of international adoptees, myself included, can soon follow Trenka’s footsteps. We can be the second wave of adoption advocates who continue to push forward international adoption reform by protecting birth mothers’ rights, increasing transparency of the adoption process, as well as investigating and exposing cases of human trafficking to close down corrupt orphanages and agencies.

Loss will always exist in adoption, but adoptees like myself will be able to sleep soundly when adoption becomes more ethical. We look forward to a new generation of adoptees finding homes they genuinely need through a transparent, ethical system.

8Wilfred Chan, “Raised in America, Activists Lead Fight to End S. Korean Adoptions,” CNN, September 17, 2013.

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FASHION

A RE YO U FAUX R EA L?

BY MARTHA DANIELS, FASHION STAFF WRITER POST PRODUCTION BY ELLIE BRAUN

In recent years, the dark truth behind fur practices in the fashion industry has surfaced. The debate has only grown, as some companies have been exposed for supporting inhumane practices, while others have chosen to discontinue the use of real fur in their product lines.

Companies like Canada Goose, for example, are known for their inhumane practices in trapping and skinning animals.

PETA has begun to directly target Canada Goose, protesting the company in their anti-fur campaigns.

The outerwear brand reportedly sets traps for coyotes, and once the animal is captured, they may be entrapped there for days, starving.

If the coyote is not dead when the trapper returns, the animals are either shot or beaten to death. While the company hasn’t publicly confirmed any of the above stated, the allegations are shocking. Canada Goose isn’t the only company that uses real fur.

Big name luxury fashion brands like Balenciaga, Fendi and Dior (the list goes on) are also in the industry of using real fur.

However, not all luxury companies continue to take part in the

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controversial industry. In fact, in 2017, Gucci announced that as of 2018, they will no longer use real fur. PETA has protested Gucci for fur usage for years, and the animal rights activists celebrated the win on Twitter, thanking their supporters who helped initiate the change.

The company’s CEO, Marco Bizzarri, stated, “Being socially responsible is one of Gucci’s core values, and we will continue to strive to do better for the environment and animals.”

The Humane Society acknowledged Gucci’s shift toward sustainability and explained that the decision is going to be a game-changer in the fashion industry. Gucci promised that their Spring 2018 collection will contain only faux fur, and this decision will continue for future collections. Bizarri also commented that he finds the use of fur to be outdated, and that “creativity can jump in many different directions instead of using furs.”

Gucci isn’t the only luxury brand that has moved away from using real fur. In 1994, Calvin Klein

became fur-free after being pressured

by PETA. In 2006 and 2007 Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren announced they would no longer be using fur, and in 2017, Net-A-Porter stated that the e-tailer would no longer be restocking any real fur items. PETA and other anti-fur activists are hoping that with more and more luxury brands standing against fur, consumers will do the same.

The benefits of wearing faux fur are extensive. It is not only more sustainable, but also much less expensive.

Making a political statement doesn’t have to involve speaking out publicly—it can be shown through impactful fashion choices as well. Thankfully, with improvements in faux fur options, sustainability doesn’t mean sacrificing style.

FUR-FREE BRANDS: Gucci Calvin Klein Tommy Hilfiger Versace Ralph Lauren Armani Stella McCartney Tom Ford Burberry

ARTS

V I RT UAL TEXTURE

BY SAMAAYA JAYAMAHA, ARTS STAFF WRITER

In a technological era when individuals often spend more time on a flat screen than interacting with physical materials, interdisciplinary artist and creative director Lucy Hardcastle sees an exciting challenge to communicate textures in a visual setting. Through programming, glassblowing and animation, Hardcastle’s work is immersive and abstract––she describes it as “sensual storytelling for the digital age.”

Hardcastle’s work focuses on enhancing the connection of sight and touch. “I like to think about how blind people consume textures,” she shares in an interview with i-D Magazine.

“I’m drawn to things like velvet and satin and flock textures—the way you see and the way you touch them really connects; it’s almost like sign language for fabrics.”

Oftentimes when searching for inspiration and ideas for new work, Hardcastle finds herself watching many “oddly satisfying” videos on Instagram and Snapchat, paying close attention to what textures and sensations make them so pleasing.

Whether it be the smooth, glossy

shine of gooey putty or the alluring touch of velvet fabric, she takes note of the captivating aspects and visualizes methods to communicate those senses as abstract forms.

The media of the pieces themselves vary. Hardcastle will often use glassblowing or other types of sculpture with idiosyncratic materials, like jelly, and then photograph the pieces with glistening studio lighting to better capture prominent curves and forms. From there, depending on the project, she will take her sculptures to a digital format, collaborating with programmers and animators to put the objects in dreamlike scenarios where they calmly float in a pastel colored space.

With such hard-hitting and one-ofa-kind work, it is no surprise that Hardcastle’s pieces have been utilized in advertising campaigns for large companies such as UNIQLO, Adidas and Levi’s. In a UNIQLO campaign for AIRism, their line of quick-drying, stretchy and odor resistant clothing, Hardcastle created a series of five solid forms to abstractly exhibit the

strengths of the material. Inspired by the silky nature of the clothing, she focused on how the fabric acts as a second skin; flowing, smooth, glass blown structures manifest the free flowing, lightweight traits that AIRsim exudes. Taking her exploration of the materials even further, Hardcastle also decided to focus on the structure and engineering of the fabric on a microscopic level. Photographs of her work draw attention to the intensely soft feel of the objects she constructed.

The fabrics are almost immaterial and too perfect to exist, embodying the plush perfection of the line.

Whether Hardcastle is developing ideas for her personal projects or corporate tasks, there is always one uniting theme between every piece.

Her unique outlook on human senses and innovative methods of exploring sensory details is changing how her audiences process and get in tune with their surroundings. Visual art is thought-provoking, but Hardcastle has cleverly managed to connect with senses beyond the mind, creating a stimulating, surreal experience fitted for screens and prints alike.

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