the mini origins
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MODA the mini Editor In Chief Deputy Editor
Caroline Kreul
Creative Director
Mekea Larson
Lifestyle Editor
Jen Anderson
Men’s Editor
Andrew Connor
Arts Editor
Bronte Mansfield
Social Editor
Barbara Gonzalez
Contributing Writers
Contributing Photographers Layout
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Chloe Karaskiewicz
Allie Jeka Bambi Shore Courtney Pelot Dan Kershner Haley Nippert Hanna Watson Jordan Schultz Kaitlinn Dunn Kelsey Wilkerson Lanni Solochek Margaret Duffey Mckenna West Sarah Friedland Savannah Bigelow Xinyi Wang Bronte Mansfield Jenna Leroy Caroline Kreul
letter from the editor With Thanksgiving fast approaching and graduation looming on the horizon, I find myself thinking more and more about where I’ve come from—perhaps to avoid having to decide where I’m going. The truth about origins is that we either spend our whole lives running from them or back to them. We may value the fire they light under us as we strive for something more-or simply something different--or we may discard them as relics of a former self. The beginning to all things is formative. The start gives us a reference for progress, for the journey, and for the finish. Alexandra Jeka reminds us, in this season and all seasons, we have many small things to be thankful for while Kaitlin Dunn reminds us how far we have to go in the value we place on features of our bodies. A part of moving forward with our lives involves critically examining the value of our beginnings and truly, the start of any idea or event. The tropes of the past require
review and new decisions as we begin to shoulder the burden of our own lives and the happiness of those we care for. Jordan Schultz, Bambi Shore and Kelsey Wilkerson explore one such concept in their discussion of “The Harry Met Sally Problem.” In this issue we explore the origin of fashion brands, the metamorphosis of men’s street style, and the rise of the fashion blogger in the concrete sense of origins. But in a more abstract light, this month’s free form photo spread integrates nature into man, as man is born of nature. Further, a reflection on our own political and activist legacy at the university invites to contemplate how knowledge of our past should inform our future, perhaps altering its current trajectory. We leave the contemplation of the future to you and welcome you to enjoy this very original issue of the Mini.
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origins There is a wilderness inside of all of us, a part that comes alive in the fall air as it blows through the leaves. As long as we can get back to our roots, we can find it.
Directed and Styled by Photographed by Modeled by
Mekea Larson Jenna LeRoy Elias Meyer-Grimberg
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Puttin’ on the Brits By Hanna Watson, Contributing Writer
British gents are storming ahead in the style game with more and more of them being recognized as a brilliant influences in men’s fashion. Thanks to trailblazers like David Gandy, top style that was once the domain of suave Italians and clean-cut Americans is now a trademark of us Brits. But how did this happen? In part it’s due to the emergence of some dashing new style icons; young British actors and entertainers have upped their game in the past several years. Eddie Redmayne for example, is not only a stellar actor, but also a Burberry model. Coupled with his brilliant sense of style makes him a veritable triple threat. There are also those who have grown up before our very eyes. Let’s look at everyone’s favorite boy wizard, Daniel Radcliffe. Part of his charm is that we have
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watched him evolve into the well-dressed fellow he is today. Any young man out there can relate to the horror of a shiny or oversized suit—one of the many pitfalls of being an awkward teenager. He now rocks a three-piece like nobody’s business. If he can transform from caterpillar to (manly) butterfly, then anyone can. It is this relatability paired with innovative style that gives these new icons their edge. How does British men’s style differ from American style? For one, British men’s style is decidedly classic. British boys prefer it smart and simple; it is the way items are paired together that completes the look and makes an ensemble stand apart from the average guy. Instead of the casual, sports-centric model, individuality is key. An outfit that is comprised of similar pieces can look completely different from one man to the next.
Consider a jumper (or a sweater, to you Americans) and jeans. It’s a pretty average look. Yet, one man might wear a graphic jumper and pair it with skinny jeans. Another might rock a woolly jumper with elbow patches and pair it with a looser fit of denim. The point is individuality. The classic wardrobe of a British guy is filled with timeless items; it’s the way they are put together that creates a unique and innovative look.
Henry Cavill
Tom Hardy, Hugh Dancy, Ben Wishaw, Henry Cavill and Benedict Cumberbatch are all on point style-wise. The great David Beckham has his own style (and poise as long as he doesn’t open his mouth). Inspiration from these men will help you get ahead in style. Invest in some key pieces to get started: a fabulous pair of brogues and a solid jumper wouldn’t hurt. Never underestimate a good scarf. Parkas
Douglas Booth
Any man can take some tips from these British style icons. First, dress smartly. A little effort goes a long way. No man in Britain wears sweatpants outside of his house, unless it’s to the gym. Secondly, add some flair. A little is all you need to make your style stand out. Make some unexpected pairings—beard with a suit or maybe some geometric glasses. Look to the street style of some icons for guidance: Douglas Booth,
Tom Hardy
with a fur hood or a duffle coat look much more dapper than a hoodie. Effort is key here, and a little investment will pay off. Finally, don’t try too hard or worry too much. You might get it wrong or look a bit silly at first, but British style is never too perfect —your personality is really what matters.
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It’s all about
the little
By Allie Jeka, Lifestyle Writer
Many know November as a time to be thankful for the blessings of life, but often overlook the smallest components of everyday life that we should cherish the most. As another year nears its end and with Thanksgiving fast approaching, it’s time to take a moment to bask in the things we have to be thankful for. Revel in the aspects of your life that make you happy, because the things you are thankful for are at the very base of who you are. Sometimes the little things can bring just as many smiles as the big ones. Be thankful for the support you receive. It’s a special feeling to know that your friends and family are always cheering you on. Knowing that others are looking out for you provides a sense of well-being and security no matter where you are. Savor
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this support and let it encourage you to succeed at whatever you put your mind to. Be thankful for little acts of kindness. A package in the mail or a quick text message from a friend shows that others are thinking of you and care about brightening your day. Your friends and family want you to be happy and in turn are happy that they have you. Let the joy of this knowledge warm you every day. Be thankful for your motivation, the core value that invigorates you to be your very best. It gets you out of bed in the morning, helps you earn your grades and drives you to become the person you want to be. Motivation pushes us to help ourselves and to help others. If you desire strongly enough to accomplish something, you’re already halfway there. Be thankful for all of the small reminders that love is everywhere: a hug from your
things... parent, a phone call from an old friend, text from a crush, or a kiss from a lover. Let the love you receive encourage you to give love in return. Be thankful for learning. Your college education helps prepare you for a career in the future. Picking up a new skill will help you explore the world and better yourself. Discovering things about others will give you compassion, open-mindedness, and, in turn, help you learn about yourself too. Learning introduces our minds to new ideas, helps us achieve goals and, most importantly, inspires us. Be thankful for relationships. Every new relationship is a new beginning and a chance for adding more love to your life. Those you spend your time with will shape you and help you grow. Relationships provide you with love, company, empathy, and passion. The people who make you happy are the most important gift that life can give.
Be thankful for comfort. Appreciate what is familiar, and what helps you to relax. Find sources of comfort wherever you can throughout your life. Unwinding in a bubble bath, talking to your best friend, petting your dog, reading a good book, enjoying a grilled cheese–whatever makes you feel content is worth feeling thankful for. Be thankful for your power to give others things they can be thankful for. A “hello� in an elevator or a smile on the street shows even strangers that we are all in this life together. Being kind to others is central to being a fulfilled person. The love, care and compassion you give make a big impact. Be thankful for all of the time you spend laughing and loving and breathing. And most of all, be thankful for the people with whom you do these things.
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My Sole is Red Shoe designer Christian Louboutin.
Since their creation, Louboutins have become a covetable item for nearly every woman’s closet, as they represent both high fashion and good taste. Such was the goal of Louboutin since he was 12 years old and, as a result, his red-painted stilettos have epitomized confidence, power and elegance for decades. 1972 was the year Louboutin decided to devote his life to shoe design. The rebellious youngster had already been kicked out school three times and consequently had quite a bit of free time, much of which he spent sneaking out to Parisian nightclubs where he would admire showgirls’ fancy shoes. Later in his childhood, he went to Paris’s Museum of African and Oceanic Art and discovered a sign that barred women from wearing stilettos so they would not scratch the floor. This idea intrigued him and it stuck with him throughout years before inspiring his first collection. After studying at the Academie Roederer and traveling to Egypt and India, he went back to Paris and studied shoe design under “the father of the stiletto,” Roger Viver.
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By Xinyi Wang, Contributing Writer In 1991, Louboutin opened his first boutique in Paris, attracting customers with both his exquisite shoes and free, Parisian-made espresso. Then after being in business for two years, Louboutin became very well-known in the fashion industry. Inspired by Andy Warhol’s “Flowers,” he designed a pair of pink heels with blossoms. However, when the shoes arrived from Italy he felt something was missing. Recalling a moment during his runway show that year, he always felt that he should add some extra element to his shoes to augment and inspire women’s confidence and power. That day, he looked around and found his employee’s red nail polish, which he then slathered on its sole. With that, the iconic red-soled shoe came to be. Louboutin is appreciated for his glamorous redsoled designs throughout the fashion industry and the world. While we may all be familiar with how the red sole was born, his brand resulted from much more than a bottle of red nail polish; rather, it came from years of hard work and inspiring innovation.
BEHIND THE BUILDING:
The Chazen
bulletin for 1978 says ‘Elvehjem Museum of Art,’” says current Chazen Director Russell Panczencho.
By Lanni Solochek, Arts Writer
The museum/center has always consisted of three entities: the Department of Art History, the University of Wisconsin Museum of Art and the Kohler Art Library. Since its opening in 1970, the museum conglomerate has grown its collection from around 1,500 pieces to around 22,000. As he helped grow the collection, Panczencho saw that their single building would not hold all of the art they were receiving.
While it’s not uncommon for universities to have gallery space on campus, Madison has an entire two-building museum. So, where did it come from?
And thus, the fundraising began again. Panczencho reached out to alumni, previous donors and anyone else who might have beenable to help. With an estimate of around $30 million, a consul-
Looking around campus, is there ever a building that comes as a surprise? A building that offers the question ‘where did you come from?’ The Chazen Museum is one building that deserves being asked.
In 1970, the Chazen Museum opened under a different name: it was The Elvehjem Art Center, named for Conrad Elvehjem, a past president of the university. Before the idea of an art center or museum came to fruition, the university had an untold number of historic art pieces floating across campus. Various donors and alumni had been giving art to the university for years, but there was nowhere for it to go. Around 1960, Jim Watrous, a junior faculty in the Art History department, took over responsibility for the growing “collection.” Instead of working as his predecessors did, Watrous was determined to make something of the scattered art. He began to bring pieces together in Bascom Hall and, in 1960, made plans with Elvehjem for an art center as a crucial resource for teaching. After Elvehjem’s death in 1962, Watrous continued to work on finding funding for the art center and, with a large donation from the Brittingham Family, the Elvehjem Art Center opened. As time went on, the Art Center continued to grow and, mysteriously, some time in 1978, the name of the center changed to the Elvehjem Museum of Art. “The only reason any of us know when it happened is that if we look at our annual bulletins that were published at that time, in ’77 it’s called the Elvehjem Art Center and then the title on the
A view of the Chazen Museum from University Ave. Photographed by Bronte Mansfield
tant informed the staff that, unless they could get a pledge for at least 50% of the overall funding, the new building could not be constructed. In swooped the Chazen Family with a $20 million donation, which grew to $25 million when the estimates went up. In 2011, the current Chazen Museum of Art proudly opened. Panczencho believes that having the museum on campus is a way to remember the importance of art in education. “We kind of look at the arts a lot as entertainment, but the arts aren’t just entertainment, they’re knowledge,” he says. “It’s like having a library – can you imagine studying anything without books?”
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Autumn Aura
By Mckenna West, Contributing Writer
Autumn is the intermingling of both a beautiful beginning and a bittersweet ending. As the last of summer is swept away by cool winds and nature transforms herself into a vibrant array of warm colors and smells, we take solace in these brief months of perfection, as we are all too familiar with what follows. In a short time, the colorful world around us will fade and once again become bare and white with snow. There is something inspiring about fall as it is a season of both tradition and reinvention, especially with fashion. Like nature, trends reappear as both different and refreshing, while remaining beautifully comfortable and familiar.
Cold Weather The weather itself is a source of inspiration for one of fall’s most important seasonal staples: sweaters. They come in all colors, textures and fabrics, and their diversity allows them to be a part of a casual ensemble that can be worn to class or as part of a chic outfit for a weekend out.
Bold Lipstick Reminiscent of the vibrant scarlet and wine-colored leaves that set whole trees ablaze with color vibrant lipstick is a beauty trend worthy of fall. Available in a variety of colors to complement every skin tone, a bold-colored lip is a striking element for anyone’s fall look.
brit.co dobundle.com
Green Cargo Jacket Reminiscent of the vibrant scarlet and wine-colored leaves that set whole trees ablaze with color vibrant lipstick is a beauty trend worthy of fall. Available in a variety of colors to complement every skin tone, a bold-colored lip is a striking element for anyone’s fall look.
paperbag.com
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Neutrals Neutral colors are essential to fall fashion. Mirroring the black, browns, olive greens and greys seen throughout the fall landscape, neutral colors are an amazing way to create simplistic outfits while still making a statement.
Furs Used as trim on the hood of a fall jacket or for a vest, fur or faux fur is almost always present in fall fashion. Much like animals growing out their coats for winter, we also don our own insulation to keep warm and add a statement piece to any outfit.
sorttrashion.com
indulgy.com
Warm Hair Color shopdailychic.com
Just as the leaves change their colors, we can change our hair to match the feel of the surrounding landscape. While summer inspires sun-kissed blonde streaks, fall inspires warm browns and rich auburn tresses.
Black Leather As pants, boots or a staple jacket, the chic simplicity of black leather is a stunning statement piece against the backdrop of the pulsing colors of autumn and seasonal textures like a cozy knit scarf or sweater.
pixgood.com
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Remembering Our Roots:
The ‘90s By Sarah Friedland, Contributing Writer As ‘90s kids, we all remember running around in corduroys and getting excited about our new tattoo choker. Yet recently these trends have resurfaced from the past and come back to life on campus.
One of the most obvious ‘90s trends re-emerging at UW-Madison is overalls. The red and white striped version sold at the bookstore is an iconic and extremely popular way of showing our school pride among both male and female students. However, many fashionable everyday-appropriate overalls are out there, too. There are patterned, skinny and shorts overalls available in popular stores like H&M.
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Fashion Comeback Crop tops have long made a prominent re-appearance on campus and runways everywhere. Often paired with maxi skirts or high-waisted jeans (another ‘90s fashion staple), crop tops have become one of the fundamentals of a collegiate wardrobe. Though not originally a ‘90s fashion item, maxi skirts reappeared in 1996 along with the bohemian trend. They provide an alternative to trousers or jeans for both formal and casual settings, coming in solids and floral patterns, and exuding an air of confidence, elegance and playfulness.
Other ‘90s fashion comebacks include slip dresses, bucket hats, Jellies (now being sold at American Apparel), and baggy tees. However, just because these items have come back doesn’t mean we want to see them again. Can you imagine the return of the long jean skirt worn by Britney Spears on the VMA red carpet? How about a sweater vest or a retro windbreaker? While some people look good wearing these ‘90s fashions, most of us couldn’t pull off platform sneakers and a chain wallet.
So remember your roots, remember what was cool and, most importantly, realize that, in life and in fashion, some things are meant to stay in the past.
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History of Iconic Fashion Pieces By Sarah Friedland and Margaret Duffey, Contributing Writers
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Wellies, created by the Duke of Wellington’s shoemaker to prevent foot rot in soldiers, become a fashion item in the 1840s. They were originally made of calfskin leather, but in 1852 Charles Goodyear invented rubber. Goodyear teamed up with makers of Wellies at the time and created the rubber Wellies we know today. These boots have become so popular that they can be seen in fashion shows as recently as Spring 2015 in London.
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Just seventeen years later, in 1857, Louis Vuitton trunks made their first appearance. Before this time, trunks were made with curved lids so rain would slide off as carriages and coaches transported them. With the onset of passenger travel by train , cruise ships and cars, the trunk needed to be re-thunk.. Louis Vuitton made flat-top trunks for easy stacking and used canvas sides to make the trunks lighter. These trunks have had such a great influence on the world that their pattern now graces everything from handbags to custom-made iPhones and rubber duckies.
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Moving forward a few decades into the 1900s, we see the creation of Keds. Originally introduced by U.S. Rubber, now known as Michelin, Keds are currently owned by Collective Brands. They claim to be the “original sneaker,” as they were the first widely-known shoe to use a rubber sole which made them quiet and easy to “sneak” up on people. Today, Taylor Swift, their current model, has created custom Keds. You can buy hers or even opt to create your own. 16 | november 2014 |
The Birkin Bag
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One of the most recognized fashion items is the little black dress, commonly referred to as the LBD and created by Coco Chanel in 1926. In that year, Vogue called it “Chanel’s Ford,” after the Model T Ford, and said it was “a sort of uniform for all women of taste.” Even through the conservative era after WWII when powder blue was the color of choice, the LBD was still worn. The LBD craze was soon revived after Audrey Hepburn wore her iconic rendition in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” Though many versions of the LBD have been created since 1926, it remains one of the most versatile and affordable clothing items for women of all ages.
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A more recent fashion trend occurred when Jane Birkin and Hermes executive, Jean-Louis Dumas, met on a plane in 1981. The items of Jane Birkin’s overstuffed straw bag fell out of the overhead locker and after witnessing the whole incident, Dumas decided to create the famous Birkin bag. Spacious and sturdy, this rectangular bag features a lockable flap closure and sleek handles that can fit any woman’s handbag clutter.
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The traditional houndstooth pattern was created in Scotland in the 1800s and was originally used as a cloak by shepherds. It was not adopted by the fashion industry until the 1930s. Designers like Christian Dior, Geoffrey Beene, Anne Klein, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Franco Moschino, and Emporio Armani have all showcased variations of the pattern in their collections. The design has stood the test of time thanks to designers “reinventing it” every 20 years or so, but the classic black and white houndstooth jacket has never gone out of style. Its versatility and timelessness makes it a look worth investing in.
The revolutionary Ray-Ban Wayfarer that deviated from the traditional metal sunglass design has been on the market since 1956. A 1981 slump in sales of the Wayfarer prompted Ray-Ban to sign a $50,000 contract with Unique Product Placement of Burbank, California. This contract placed the sunglasses in over 60 television shows and movies every year from 1982 to 1987. The incredible amount of appearances led the Wayfarer to not only record sales but also to a guarantee that the sunglasses will forever be a significant part of both the entertainment and fashion industries. The Wayfarer is more than just a pair of sunglasses – it represents over 60 years of American culture.
Thomas Burberry created the first trench coat in 1879 with a waterproof fabric called gabardine that was also of his own creation. The British Army was among the first to order the coat, making it a 19th century military staple. When soldiers returned home from war they continued to wear the trench coats, facilitating the coat’s transformation into a fashion staple. The coat has stood the test of time in the fashion world with very little alteration to the original desig. Considering the Burberry trench coat’s ability to remain relevant over the past 135 years, it, or a similarly-cut variation, is a worthy addition to any closet.
Andre Perugia documented the stiletto’s design for the first time in 1906 but the shoe went virtually unknown until Roger Vivier’s interpretation of the classic piece hit the runway in the 1950s. Over the years, the stiletto has been worn by work professionals and ambitious teenagers alike, making it one piece that transcends class and age while embodying the diverse nature of femininity. The stiletto comes in a variety of colors, patterns, and heights, each representing the designer’s vision and empowering the wearer. When looking to invest in one pair though, the black stiletto is the most versatile choice that will never go out of style.
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The cashmere sweater has been associated with royalty since the time of Napoleon, but it made its entrance into the fashion world in the 1920s. Chanel, Palou, Schiaparelli, and Pringle of Scotland all led the way as the piece evolved into a fashion statement. When actress Lane Turner wore a cashmere sweater in her 1937 movie “They Won’t Forget,” the sweater made its lasting mark in the fashion industry. It has gone through many adaptations over the years with the twin set being one of the most popular in the 1950s. The cashmere sweater’s timeless look makes it an essential piece to any wardrobe.
The Ray-Ban Wayfarer
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WI
the People A Brief History of Political Activism on Campus By Haley Nippert, Social Writer
“Whatever may be the limitations which trammel inquiry elsewhere, we believe that the great State University of Wisconsin should ever encourage that continual and fearless sifting and winnowing by which alone the truth may be found.” -“Sifting and Winnowing” Plaque, Bascom Hall The University of Wisconsin-Madison has a long tradition of political activism on campus, and it remains one of the hallmarks of the university. Many people believe that UW’s activism began during the protests of the Vietnam War, but students have been participating actively in political and social justice issues since the school was founded in 1848. Whether it was defending Emma Goldman’s right to free speech when she was invited into the classroom of Professor Edward A. Ross, picketing at the Capitol for the passage of the 19th Amendment, or protesting against selective service during the World Wars and Vietnam, UW students have always demanded to be heard. From the 1910s to the 1950s, students on campus were actively involved in mainly academic, racial, and wartime issues. The Wisconsin Students Workers Union, formed in 1914 in response to budgets cuts and subsequent firings,
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was one of the first student unions on campus. 1934 through 1950 saw massive anti-conscription, anti-war, and anti-ROTC protests throughout campus, some of which resulted in disciplinary action against students. Of particular note is UW’s history of protesting against racial inequality. When the University of Missouri wouldn’t let a black UW athlete participate in a track meet in 1939, students were able to convince the athletic department to pull out of the competition. Despite lacking a large amount of institutional power at this time, UW students were able to collectively fight for their beliefs. These themes carried into the ‘60s and ‘70s, with the addition of more radical protesting and action. Students participated in the famed “March on Washington” in 1963, and marched up State Street only five years later in memory of the then recently assassinated Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. A student strike for the intention-
al recruitment of more minority students and better race relations led to the creation of the Department of Afro-American Studies, a stunning example of the power of student voices. In 1973, the closing of the Afro-American and Native American Cultural Centers sparked a oneday boycott, and a calling for other centers for minority groups. That year also marked a rally in support of International Women’s Day, events that coincided with the Second-Wave feminist movement in the US. However, the most dramatic examples of political activism on campus happened in response to the Vietnam War. During October of 1967, in an event that would push UW to the forefront of student protest, students—many of them members of the now-defunct activist movement Students for a Democratic Society—gathered in protest of the Dow Chemical Company.1 The company was producing a substance called napalm, or “sticky fire,” which at the time was used in warfare as an incendiary weapon. Students at the sit-in were attacked by police, and thousands of students became involved in the conflict. From then on, the political atmosphere of the campus would change. One of the most radical actions that took place was the bombing of Sterling Hall in 1970, as a response to the presence of the Army Mathematics Research Center (AMRS), which resulted in the death of Professor Robert Fassnacht. The AMRS was believed to be a center of military intelligence which made it a prime target for student protesters. Further protesting against US intervention
in foreign countries, such as Iran and Chile, as well as demonstrations against nuclear testing and police violence took place throughout the rest of the decade. The decades of Reagan and Clinton saw an increase in social awareness, particularly in consciousness for racial issues. In 1988, a “slave auction” sponsored by the Zeta Beta Tau fraternity, which featured members in blackface, resulted in large scale protests by the Black Student Union, a national organization formed during the Civil Rights movement. Several rallies also took place throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s, both in support of and against abortion rights, including one marking the 20th anniversary of the passage of Roe v. Wade, the 1973 court case that established a woman’s right to an abortion. These decades also brought awareness to LGBTQ+ issues, with demonstrations by ACT UP!, a gay rights organization founded in 1987, and protests against the firing of a lesbian employee at the Wisconsin Union. While the 2000s have not seen as much student activism as decades past, students are still taking an active role in current issues. Sweatshop practices by the university were protested in 2000, which resulted in the university joining the Worker Rights Consortium. Perhaps the most well-known example of student activism in the past five years were the 2011 Recall Walker protests, where thousands of workers and students swarmed the Capitol in demonstrations against Governor Walker’s “budget
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repair” bill. Most recently there have been protests over the expansion of the late Dr. Harry Harlow’s research with infant primates at the Wisconsin National Primate Research Center. On October 29th, 2014, the All Campus Rally for a Living Wage, hosted by the Graduate Student Workers’ Union, took place to “trick or treat” for higher wages for UW workers. The University of Wisconsin-Madison has had a long tradition of political activism that continues well into the present. Today marks an opportunity for all UW students to join in by participating in the electoral process. Phoenix Rice-Johnson, Vice Chair of the College Democrats, argues that college students don’t realize how much of an impact their vote can have, but “college students can be the demographic that decides an election.” As incumbent gubernatorial candidate Scott Walker-R faces off in the final round against Mary Burke-D, the people who count are those who head out to the polls. Whether democrat, republican, independent, or of another opinion, it is incredibly important for students to rock the vote in order to ensure that political activism remains a central part of campus life.
University Communications
To learn more about UW’s fascinating history, check out UW’s Archives and Oral History of Protests and Social Action at UW-Madison during the 20th Century. To find out where you can vote, log on to http://www.cityofmadison.com/election/ voter/where.cfm
Bailey, Geoff. “The Rise and Fall of SDS.” International Socialist Review 31 (2003): n. pag. International Socialist Review. “EDUCATION; Inquiry on Fraternity ‘Slave Auction’” The New York Times. The New York Times, 25 Oct. 1988. Maraniss, David. They Marched into Sunlight: War and Peace, Vietnam and America, October 1967. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2003. Print. “Protests & Social Action at UW-Madison during the 20th Century.” Archives & Oral History. The University of Wisconsin-Madison, 2009. “Sterling Hall Bombing: Seven Men Linked by a Moment in History : Wsj.”Madison.com. Wisconsin State Journal, 17 Aug. 2010. Web.
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The “Harry Met Sally” Problem Three UW-Madison students discuss whether men and woman can truly be just friends.
JORDAN Whenever I flip open a magazine or scroll through Facebook seeing another BuzzFeed listicle asking me the question: “can men and women REALLY be friends?” I can’t help but grind my teeth and feel two very strong emotions: annoyance and confusion. As a queer female every time this trope is brought up, I can’t help but wonder to myself: “Is this all heterosexual people think about all day; whether or not they can be friends with the opposite gender?” It’s no secret that this question is raised in almost every gossip/relationship column of magazines at one point or another. And the issue with this trope, is that it’s a trope, a cliché not deserving of merit. Going through high school, this question was asked time and time again by young and impressionable students, just like myself, who now wondered if there was in fact some force in the universe keeping men and women from being anything more to each other than potential dating partners. And as a female bodied person who has spent the greater part of her life with 70% male friends, I can say that question has always and forever confused me. I have always been able to make and hold male friendships without going in thinking of these men as potential dating partners and with them doing the same to me. So I know, even through personal experience, that men and women are in fact able to hold a friendship together. Until quite recently I identified to other people as heterosexual before coming out as queer. A fact that proves a trope like this can’t carry merit because not
By Jordan Schultz, Bambi Shore and Kelsey Wilkerson, Contributing Writers
every person is straight, not every person wants to be romantically involved with the opposite gender. And I believe that with a question like “can men and women really be friends” it creates a situation that is problematic. It creates an environment that I, as a queer women, have noticed is toxic. There were never issues in the simple fact that I befriended a man; issues arose when the friendship was built upon the fact that the person saw me as a target rather than a person and a friend. I was a potential dating prospect; I was a potential person to share a bed with. In fact I had a very close, five-year-long friendship with a boy from my school that ended our senior year of high school. This person started and built a friendship with me on the grounds that he wanted more than just friendship from me. I was unable to reciprocate and this caused problems all throughout our friendship until finally he tried for the hundredth time to ask me out. Shortly after rejecting this proposal, which should have come as no surprise, he completely cut off our friendship and the person who was my best friend was gone. The problem was never that he was a boy and I was a girl, the problem was trying to force friendship to be something other than what it was. And just like judging a fish on its ability to fly, judging a friendship’s ability to prosper when it isn’t treated as a friendship in the first place, doesn’t work. We all, regardless of gender or orientation, are capable of making and holding friendships with people of the gender that they are attracted to, but it’s how you choose to treat the situation that counts.
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KELSEY Personally, I had a female friend who I became attracted to during my freshman year of high school. We attended the same middle school, conversed regularly, performed in band together and lived about 8 blocks apart. We decided to hang out the summer before school started to become more acquainted. At the age of 14, I was the stereotypical young boy, wild hormones in full effect. My devious plan to seduce her could have backfired completely: ruining our new friendship. But after my many attempts, she denied me respectfully and was willing to still be my friend. And as I took a step back, we were able to move forward. Progressing through the years of high school, we would travel to the park to see who could soar the highest on the swings and play basketball at the courts. Through the years, we became much closer friends and I could appreciate the friendship we had developed and all the things we had in common. The most important thing was that as time went by in on our friendship, we were able to learn each other’s true personality, see how the other acts under pressure, and learn their feelings on subjects that they would not express in a public setting. Our senior year of high school was the
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height of our friendship: this young woman had become my best friend in a way I never thought was possible. I had been told that other men could only be my best friends, but this friendship taught me many lessons in my adolescence, especially in that she helped me complete my growth in becoming a respectable man towards all women. Eventually, we did try dating, and it was weird. We spent so much time being friends that dating seemed unnatural. Ultimately, it ended badly and we went months without speaking or visiting. Eventually, though, we repaired our friendship and are still good friends today. Our time apart allowed me to remember the great times we spent together and understand that we had the most fun when we were friends and some of our worst when trying to become something else. Our situation helped me discover how to be a true friend, how to respect a woman, how to be there emotionally for her, and that a friendship is a relationship. Friends can do everything significant others do—excluding the sexual intimacy. This epiphany has allowed me to have meaningful relationships with women—so much so that I now have more female friends than male friends.
BAMBI Unlike some, I never went on a date in middle school. To be completely honest, I wasn’t even interested in dating for the first couple years of high school either. I saw the way my friends’ relationships all seemed to go well the first week but were over by the third. I thought it was a waste of time and a whole lot of avoidable heartbreak.
I never started friendships with the intention of dating or having a fling. When they suggested going out on a date, the friendship became awkward for me because I was totally oblivious to their interest.
I think I was never aware of male friends having stronger feelings for me because I was not looking for a romantic relationship. I just wanted to enjoy As I got older, I started getting curious about the dat- their company and be able to talk to them, like I ing world. Like many young women, I wanted to be would with any friend. You can have just as good of courted: taken to the movies, to eat, etc. Many guys conversation with men as women, and sometimes my age just wanted to hook-up, which wasn’t what even better. I wanted. I was 16 when I was first asked to the movies. It was exciting, but soon he wanted more. Society often paints a picture of attraction as It was disappointing and we fizzled. It wasn’t until being the number one thing the opposite genders senior year that I had a serious boyfriend. Reflecting seek in each other, but friendships don’t have to on our relationship, we were friends more than any- start as anything more than friendship and can last thing else. We broke up when we went to college, for years. Sometimes it turns into something more but I am grateful that I was able to experience it. and sometimes it doesn’t, it just depends. All I know I learned what I wanted out of a partner, which is is that men and women can be friends, you can see perhaps the whole point of dating. it all around us. It is often a deeply satisfying and wonderful relationship, and the opportunity to have During my high school years, I never looked at the this shouldn’t be ruined because you only have one guys I met as anything more than a potential friend. end result in mind.
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Quiet Mob scene outside Supreme’s SoHo location, April 3, 2014. Photo Courtesy highsnobiety.com
On April 3, 2014, NYPD squad cars were called to disperse hundreds of people engaged in what was destined to become a riot in the middle of a major Manhattan street. Public safety in the area was the main concern for law enforcement, but it was clear from the start that motives behind the disturbance weren’t political or criminal. In fact, the epicenter of this massive throng was located along Lafayette St. in SOHO, a neighborhood known not for violent crime, but for expensive clothing boutiques and fancy coffee shops. As it turns out, high-top Nike basketball shoes incited the incident. Yes, sneakers made out of rubber, plastic and nylon shut down an entire New York City block for a morning. These weren’t kicks worn or signed by Jordan or Kobe or Lebron either. They’re called Nike Foamposites, special editions designed by New York brand Supreme and announced for release online just a night prior. As soon as emails went out and webpages finished refreshing on the eve of the drop, sneaker-hounds far and wide began to flock to Lafayette and set up camp. All to beat a crowd which, given the insurmountable hype sur-
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RIOT By Dan Kershner, Men’s Writer
rounding this particular collaboration, was bound to exhaust supply mere minutes after the store opened up its doors at 11:30 am. This was over the top, even by Supreme’s already well-established limited-release culture. But to understand this retail pandemonium, it helps to first take a long, hard look at the source, which is undeniably a dope one. The upper-part of the sneaker, with its ribbed and elongated black silhouette, draws inspiration from the creature in “Alien.” Offsolecollector.com
Supreme / Nike Air Foamposite
sun, he was able to market his clothes to a surging Japanese youth culture which craved freshness in design and brand ideology. The new international “Stussy Tribe” could be readily identified by the line’s logo-centric design on hats, jackets and t-shirts. Far from looking tacked on or pretentious, Stussy’s logos adopted a number of novel variations ranging from their already time-tested typeface, to graphics riffing on high fashion logos from brands like Chanel. Over a period of less than ten years, Stussy trademarked a certain kind of cool that was as natural as it was multifaceted. It provided those urban youths in the know with pieces which were simultaneously affordable, well made, elegant, and statement-making. When former Stussy manager James Jebbia opened up Supreme’s doors in ’94, Stussy had already primed the New York market by way of its SOHO location. Although Supreme’s designs treaded on similar ideological and aesthetic territory as its older brother from the start, they adopted a more abrasive and aggressive tone grounded in skateboarding swagger. The store’s open space served as more of a neighborhood safe-haven for skaters than a retail space. Likewise, the outpost’s soon-to-be iconic “Box-Logo” stickers could be plastered over any nearby public space accessible by skateboard. The brand’s logo gained further popularity after this same box-logo emblem was featured in photographs of prominent urban legends like Wu-Tang Clan rap-god Raekwon wearing box-logo tees, or heroine-chic princess Kate Moss flying the banner over what was originally part of her Calvin Klein campaign. Subversion and visual sensibility became unstoppable when paired with game-changing retail strategy. Collections were released in small chunks throughout the
One of Shawn Stussy’s custom surfboards. Photo courtesy complex.com into clothing was an easy one and before long, a budding brand emerged out of the woodwork. Although his clothing carried the same rebellious and vivacious spirit in design as his hardware, Stussy and his small team knew that noise and elegance didn’t have to be mutually exclusive. They anchored their trademark designs in understated, structured basics which eschewed the all-encompassing loudness of most street clothing of the time. These were clothes which allowed youths to wear their hearts on their sleeves while looking stylish anywhere they went. By the latter part of the decade, the look was on fire and in 1988, Stussy jumped on the opportunity to take the idea global. In Italy, he found a European license courtesy of one Luca Benini, a buyer whose excellent taste and vision for retail made way for the European streetwear company Slam Jam. Upon linking up with Japanese designer Hiroshi Fujiwara and travelling to the land of the rising
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setting the all-black trim and icy clear rubber sole, the sneakers are emblazoned with a brilliant golden print, whose undulating forms look like a cross somewhere between barley-grass and phoenix feathers. Like many of Supreme’s perennially innovative collections, the shoes embrace vibrancy and aesthetic darkness simultaneously. Still, these otherworldly sneakers remain fundamentally anchored in classic street style, despite looking like they come from a parallel universe.
season rather than all at once, effectively sustaining the brand’s hype throughout the entirety of the year. Each release of Supreme gear was also limited run, and this tactic ensured that they felt like artifacts to be procured and charished, rather than badges to be collected. If Stussy converted raw counter-cultural vibes into functional and covetable commodities, Supreme capitalized on the potential to assert aesthetic influence over the street by commodifying New York’s dynamic network of underground cultural exchange. With the advent of the internet, culture-streams and culture-marketplaces have become accessible to those occupying nearly any street in the world, urban or otherwise. Blogs like Hypebeast and Highsnobiety have served as continuously refreshed reference lists for those looking to siphon off some of the streetwear line’s perennially intact cool. The look is so well defined and sought after in the market today that designers like Hood By Air, Rick Owens, Public School, and OFF-WHITE have seized the opportunity to reinterpret streetwear with respect to more abstract, high-fashion sensibilities, not to mention moving significantly up-market in price.
Since it opened its doors in 1994, Supreme’s uncompromising takes on menswear staples have consistently set the aesthetic benchmark for the streetwear movement, and spawned legions of followers in skaters, hip-hop heads, models and high fashion designers alike -- not to mention an equal population of imitators. It may be the rawest remaining member of a decades old sartorial movement which is spiritually rooted in skating, hip-hop and punk rock cultures. Today, Supreme serves as the ideological nucleus of an ongoing tradition in streetwear and the market-stopgap between its primal beginnings and current infusion onto haute couture runways. In order to fully understand this current synthesis of high and low in streetwear, it’s important to look even further in the past than Supreme’s twenty year conception. This new chapter in streetwear isn’t at all an indication that the concept has over reached or overAbout ten years prior, Shawn Stussy was busy mak- sold its boundaries. Rather, it’s a testament to the ing waves in the Los Angeles surf scene with his enduring novelty of formal and aesthetic contraelegantly hand-shaped boards. Not only were they diction. At the end of the day, the greatest contriinnovative in form and function, but they showed bution of streetwear to the sartorial landscape is off graphic designs which took visual cues from that it’s given attentive individuals who want to punk, new-wave and reggae aesthetics. Stussy took embrace counter-culture an opportunity to make all of the collective vibes that existed in California a statement against everything that is stuffy, put-on counter-culture at the time and transmitted them and immobile about the concept and structure of into highly referential visual design, a tactic which capital-F-fashion, while objectively looking stylish. resonated deeply in the tight-knit community. Nat- Streetwear has, and continues to be, the perfect sarurally, Stussy’s transition into graphic tees and later torial venue for a quiet riot.
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Gray Thursday The encroachment of commercialism into the Thanksgiving holiday.
By Courtney Pelot, Lifestyle Writer
Black Friday, the day of epic deals and steals “The year that is drawing towards its close, has following Thanksgiving, has remained an elaborate been filled with the blessings of fruitful fields and production for as long as I can remember. When healthful skies. To these bounties, which are so I was little, my parents would go Black Friday constantly enjoyed that we are prone to forget the shopping every year. My babysitter would come source from which they come, others have been over to our house early Friday morning, and my added, which are of so extraordinary a nature, that parents would head out the door at five or six a.m. they cannot fail to penetrate and soften even the Way back then, I may have even thought they were heart which is habitually insensible...” a little crazy. They would get home from the mall in the early afternoon, almost all of their holiday This first official Thanksgiving Day under Lincoln’s shopping complete. presidency probably differs greatly from yours, but the principles and values that he possessed This just isn’t the story anymore. Over the past few in declaring this holiday are very much the same years, Black Friday sales advertise deals beginning today. Maybe your family and friends play a game earlier and earlier. Malls, department stores and of football in the backyard while your grandmother popular companies like Target, Wal-Mart and Best finishes putting the final touches on dinner. Maybe Buy seem to start their “door buster” promotions at you wake up early in the morning so you can sit an earlier hour on Friday morning each year. This with your family to watch the Macy’s Thanksgiving past year, stores boasted bargains starting at 8, 9 Day Parade. Maybe you participate in a run on and 10 p.m. on Thursday evening. Thanksgiving morning with your entire family and wear matching t-shirts from the event to Thanksgiving Yes. Thursday, as in Thanksgiving, a national holiday. dinner. Whatever it is that you do with your family, This day used to be a time when families and friends these are the traditions that make Thanksgiving the could join together for a meal, and offer thanks for holiday it is--not the holiday sales the following everything and everyone they have in their lives. morning. Instead, Thanksgiving has transitioned into a day This holiday stemmed from the idea of giving when people devote more to what material items thanks for everything good in life to remind us of they “need” to buy than about thinking of the people our privileges, our silver linings, and the people they are lucky enough to have in their lives and the that make everything better. There’s time on Friday memories they make with these individuals. and the remaining weeks of the holiday season to hit the stores for gifts. There’s no need to cut Many of you know that the pilgrims first celebrated your traditions and family time short just so you Thanksgiving as a way of giving thanks for a can save a few bucks. After all, a few years down successful harvest. In fact, this famous day of family, the road, what will you remember? Will you love and thanks wasn’t an official national holiday remember the Blu-ray player you scored for 60 until Abraham Lincoln’s presidency. When Abraham percent off at 8:00 p.m. Thanksgiving night, or will Lincoln declared Thanksgiving a national holiday, you remember the peaceful day you had with your he spoke of the meaning, the feeling of the holiday: friends and family? 8 | october 2014 | lifestyle
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Through The Thigh Gap By Kaitlin Dunn, Arts Writer
Author’s Note: This article has no intention to body shame anyone. I firmly believe that body shaming is wrong no matter what one’s size or shape. This piece is not criticizing anyone who has any of these anatomical features, but rather the mindset that these features are necessary to be beautiful. The “thigh gap” came out of nowhere and latched onto every nook and cranny of popular culture before we even realized what was happening to our notions of body image. I do not know why this particular “look” became the big trend, but what I can understand is that placing importance on certain body parts is not anything new. Through studying art history, I have learned that we often recycle similar concepts to become our new obsessions. During my many nineteenth-century art history courses, a certain popular belief and study of that time was touched on repeatedly: physiognomy, or using peoples’ facial features to understand their character and even ethnic origin. Physiognomy was even used to pinpoint criminals; all criminals were believed to have had some sort of characteristic that could identify them as different from the population of upstanding citizens. This was an accepted practice with the ancient Greeks that fell out of favor in the medieval era, but resurfaced in its heyday in the eighteenth century until the late nineteenth century when it was finally discredited. The ideas behind physiognomy can be seen in another, more well known scientific practice that assigned characteristics on appearance: eugenics. This practice and theory can be seen in art at this time and was used so viewers could understand what type of people they were looking at (aristocrats, drunkards, immigrants, etc.).
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The “thigh gap” might be the most recognizable body trait trend, but the same emphasis is being put on other, more creatively titled, anatomical features. More recent challengers to the thigh gap trend are the Lady V, Bikini Bridge, and Finger Trap. The Lady V is the pelvic line that has gained attention from the thigh-high slit dresses and skirts seen on celebrities like Kendall Jenner, whose Lady V prompted Harper’s Bazaar to label it “the
harpersbazaar.com
Kendall Jenner sports the “Lady V”
body part du jour.” The Bikini Bridge (which I had to look up on Urban Dictionary myself) is when your bikini bottoms create a bridge between your hip bones, meaning your lower abdomen and bikini bottoms do not touch when laying down. Lastly, the Finger Trap is a quick and easy way to find out if
and Into Physiognomy There is the desire to have these features--but why? We have assigned characteristics to the people that have these: beauty, thinness, fitness, strength, style, sex appeal, youth, healthy lifestyles. We want these qualities, so we want their features. The individuals that have these body features are somehow elevated and we only need to look at them to understand the qualities that they must possess. Obviously this is problematic, but that has not deterred people from hash-tag flaunting their bikini bridge on Instagram, just as artists did not have any problem exaggerating features on their subjects to meet certain stereotypes. Two women gauge their “attractiveness” based on the Finger Trap test.
you are beautiful or not. To find out, put your finger up to your chin and nose. In China, if your lips touch your finger, you are out of luck in the looks department, but if there is a gap, you are beautiful. In contrast,Western countries value the opposite results So what does all of this have to do with some weird Victorian pseudo scientific practice? The entire aim of physiognomy was to pass judgment and to be able to understand the characteristics and qualities of a person solely on superficial features. To be clear: the above-mentioned anatomical features are superficial. There is nothing more practical about having a bikini bridge or thigh gap, but the presence on social media and in popular culture has created and perpetuated their importance such that there is an obsessive quality in our need to achieve these “beauty standards.”
Some people have naturally occurring thigh gaps, some people work out a lot and have one as the result. This is not problematic or strange. What is peculiar is the coverage these features are receiving and the misleading headlines about them. These qualities associated with the finger trap and the Lady V are continually permitted because we see constant reinforcement. Physiognomy’s appearance in books, justice and law practices, artwork, and statements from the artists illustrate the pervasiveness and kind of authority it had on opinion. Assessments on character were simply deduced by one’s physical appearance. From a historical outlook, physiognomy is no different than the widely trending anatomical desires we are faced with now. A thigh gap and Lady V are not as demonizing as pointing out an immigrant based on their appearance, but the similarities show the origins of celebrated physical features are rooted farther back than just the onset of these #trends.
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T
o sit in the front row at fashion week means you are the crème de la crème, the top of the top and the coolest of the cool. This row has been reserved for editors, creative directors, stylists and celebrities for as long as the event has existed. Yet as of late, new, freshfaced bloggers are getting mixed in with these world-class fashion reporters. On the rise for years, the influence of fashion bloggers spans numerous social media networks, making their tips and outfits accessible and easy to follow. Many of them are in their twenties and created a blog to showcase their personal style and fashion inspiration. However, as their blogs grew in popularity, they started to get noticed by designers, resulting in a coveted invitation to not just attend fashion week events, but to sit front row. Leandra Medine, or The Man Repeller as her blog is called, based her blog off of the idea that clothes women like and want to wear are not what men find appealing. She claimed she was literally repelling men based on her fashion choices. Her revolutionary idea rocketed her to stardom with an Instagram following of over 746,000. Danielle Bernstein, founder of We Wore What, started her site as a street style blog in New York City, but has morphed it into her own “fashion diary” in which she documents her world travels and promotes her blog and designer clothes. Julie Sarinana, founder of Sincerely Jules, chronicles her life and outfits in California and across the globe as her brand and name has grown. She also has created a collection of chic t-shirts and crewneck sweatshirts. Together, these three women represent just a few of the famed bloggers—including Chiara Ferragni of The Blonde Salad, Rumi Neely of Fashion Toast, and Arielle of SomethingNavy— who have influenced style and brought their creative voice to the world of fashion.
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THE RISE OF THE FASHION BLOGGER By Savannah Bigelow, Contributing Writer
Man Repeller
Sincerely Jules
Who Wore What
Therise of the blogger can be directly attributed to technology. As magazines continue to work at expanding their online presence, bloggers have already established theirs. This is especially notable for bloggers who have created significant Instagram presences given that the app reportedly has over 150 million active users as of September 2013. Through social media and the online realm, bloggers can reach a wide variety of people through sharing photos and content quickly and effectively. Magazines have tried to hop on this trend, but their photos feature models and actresses rather than normal people, a strength that allows readers to relate to bloggers over the glossy images in magazines. Bloggers are accessible, they have tips for everyday life and they allow even college students to have a glimpse into their glamorous lives while showcasing outfits that are comfortable enough for all-day power lectures.
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