4 minute read
Fur’s Snowy Resurrection
HAUTE COUTURE HAS FUR THIS WINTER Written by Zack Zens, Fashion Staff Writer Graphic by Nicole Glesinger, Contributing Graphic Artist
Splashing the runways of several major designers, fur has returned to the catwalk with vitality in a surprising way. As some designers like Oscar De La Renta and Canada Goose move away from fur, others like Bottega Veneta have chosen to embrace it.1 These opposing trends have been consistently brushing the pages of celebrity curated looks and fashion bloggers alike. Fur, like many staple options, promotes a unique, refined and sophisticated addition to any wardrobe.
With fur in the catalog, designer and runway looks have been geared to one of two schools of thought: either bold and extravagant looks or cropped and subtle ones with slim and measured proportions. Bottega Veneta has truly geared up to promote green, a highly popular color this season, and large, exaggerated fur looks paired with fox and other options as well.2
Fur has also returned to the Met Gala with Jennifer Lopez’s faux fur Ralph Lauren wrap and floor-length coffee-colored gown.3 Further, Saweetie was seen in a black lace Givenchy dress trimmed in fur at the MTV EMA’s in Budapest.4 Time and time again, fur makes a subtle and sophisticated addition to the outfits and collections of several prominent designers.
YSL’s FW 2021 collection did not shy away from fur either, with large Siberian Hats and fur-trimmed skirts dotting the pages of lookbooks. The colors of this YSL collection are all reasonably neutral shades, as it is with most YSL pieces, but still, each piece is absolutely eye-catching and beautifully cut.5
On the other side of the coin, the ski-obsessed looks of Miu Miu’s FW
1 Caitlin O’Kane, “Billie Eilish Wore Oscar de la Renta at the Met Gala Under one Condition: They stop using fur,” CBS News, Sept. 2021. 2 Katy Kelleher, “Bottega Veneta Green Was Fashion’s Favorite Color. What Happens Next?” Refinery 29, 2021. 3 Sarah Wasilak, “J Lo’s Western-Inspired Ralph Lauren Met Gala Look Comes With a Shoe Surprise,” Popsugar, Sept. 2021. 4 Amanda Krause, “9 of The Most Daring Looks Celebrities Wore to The 2021 MTV EMAs,” Insider, Nov. 2021. 5 Amy De Klerk, “Everything you need to see from the autumn/winter 2021 collections,” Harper’s Bazaar, July 2021.
2021 collection feature bold colors and alpine boots trimmed in fur, making it a central tenet of the design ethos of this collection.6 These ski-themed items are part of a broader trend that has revitalized the 1970s and ‘80s ski fashion featured prominently in the new release "House of Gucci".
Given the permeation of fur as a visual canon for the season, it seems plausible to want to incorporate it into a wardrobe, which is best done with choice pieces from jackets to shoes and bags. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference, but larger and oversized fits are in, so consider this when choosing a piece as well.
With this extended consideration of fur, there is a sort of ruggedness and grandeur to a fur garment. It communicates presence in a powerfully and timeless way while also being highly practical and easy to incorporate into any fall, winter and spring ensemble.
Having said this, there is a lot of controversies that stem from fur’s use in fashion as something that is both resource-intensive and inhumane. Animal cruelty is no light subject and some producers are guilty of using methods that are barbarous and cruel. When considering a source to buy fur from, it is imperative that when
6 Ibid. one chooses an item, that item is ethically sourced and humanely treated. This goes without saying, but fur products should never contain endangered or protected species and should trace, in detail, the animals’ treatment and sourcing.
Buying or thrifting vintage fur is also a great way to reduce new consumption while saving many pieces from landfills. If you are seeking genuine fur, purchasing it used is the most ethical method. Additionally, not only does reclaiming used fur help the environment and limit animal sourcing, but it is also much more affordable than brand new items while not compromising on quality.7
The maze of foxtails at Bottega Veneta in Seoul epitomizes the true character and vivacity with which fur has reentered the winter wardrobe.8 Incorporating fur exemplifies, much like the striking nature of an iridescent gloss, the class in adding a gentle layer of refinement to any outfit or wardrobe. Ethically-sourced fur is bold, unique and consequently en vogue in any winter wardrobe this season and for seasons to come. ■
7 Elizabeth Shergan, “Stella McCartney on Fashion’s Steep Environmental Toll: ‘We don’t have 20 years to wait,’” Fast Company, Nov. 2021. 8 Kat Barandy, “Explore Bottega Veneta’s Immersive, Green Maze Installation in Seoul,” Designboom, Oct. 2021.
