5 minute read
A glimpse into the not-so-distant future
REFLECTING ON FUTURISTIC FASHION AND ITS EVOLVING NATURE
Written by Jane Houseal, Fashion Editorial Assistant Photographed by Luc Marchessault, Staff Photographer Modeled by Devany Rindy Makeup by Riley August, Makeup Director
When I first began playing with the idea of “futuristic fashion,” it sparked images of flashy intergalactic outfits. Hunter Schaefer’s two-piece silver Prada look at the 2021 Met gala, or one of Doja Cat’s many, sexy metallic ensembles that she paired with the release of her latest album, “Planet Her,” are full of elements that we consider futuristic.
Typically associated with space and technology, futuristic fashion includes metallic color palettes, holographic material, geometric silhouettes and other cosmic-inspired elements. However, upon further research into current fashion phenomena and trends, it is clear there is a subtle shift happening in how we define “futuristic fashion.” A new realm of fashion that is distinctly dystopian may be a more accurate representation of how individuals are using fashion to mirror their ideas about the future.
These design differences reflect the continually changing state of the world. In the ‘60s and ‘70s, there was a lot of excitement surrounding space travel and new technological advancements; whereas now, individuals yearn for a return to nature and even express fears about how rapidly technology is advancing. The fashion that was popular in the mid 20th century is known as “retro-futurism” because it is the pasts’ version of the future.1 Italian designer Pierre Cardin is often considered the founder of this space-age style. His collections were full of tasteful silver vinyl and clean geometric shapes that laid the foundation for futuristic fashion.2
In 1964, designer André Courrèges released his “Moon Girl” collection, which included white go-go boots, spherical hats and A-line skirts created from high-shine PVC. These early designs were iconic in that they reflected society’s building anticipation for a technologically-advanced future. Despite being born out of ideas from long ago, many still consider the striking aesthetic as the epitome of futuristic fashion.3
The concept is apparent on runways, in celebrity fashion and even in the average wearer’s closet. Popular designers are beautifully reflecting retro-futurism in their current designs. Designer Iris Van Herpen is known to design otherworldly, unconventional products that combine space-age aesthetics with true modern tech-
¹ Maura Brannigan, “The Eternal, Desperate Optimism of Retro-Futurism in Fashion,” Fashionista, Jan. 26, 2021. ² Laird Borrelli-Persson, “5 Things You Didn’t Know about the French Design Legend Pierre Cardin,” Vogue, July 19, 2019. ³ Leah Dolan, “A Visual History of Space-Age Fashion,” CNN, May 23, 2021. nological advancements, such as 3D-printed materials.4
Other designers such as Chanel have embodied the aesthetic as is. In Chanel’s Fall 2017 runway show, it presented a collection of glitter, knee-high go-go boots and a double-breasted bouclé skirt suit alongside a monogrammed rocket ship that embarked on a fake-launch.5 Rather than depict an accurate prediction of the future, retro-futurism is a timeless aesthetic that is used to convey ideas of hope and provoke excitement about innovation and change.
The darker side of futuristic fashion doesn’t relate to the space-age aesthetic, but rather, it reflects society’s current perceptions of the future. Trends such as “subversive basics,” defined by trend forecaster Augustina Panzoni, and “avant apocalypse,” described by trend analyst Mandy Lee showcase this newer, more gloomy version of futuristic fashion.6
The designs associated with dystopian fashion are deconstructed and unique, with funky cutouts, unnecessary straps
4 “Iris Van Herpen Debuts Wearable 3D Printed Pieces at Paris Fashion Week,” Materialise, accessed Nov. 18, 2021. 5 Dhani Mau, “Chanel Literally Launched a Spacecraft in the Middle of Its Fall 2017 Show,” Fashionista, March 7, 2017. 6 “What Is the Subversive Basics Trend?” CR Fashion Book, July 22, 2021. DECEMBER 2021
and ribbons, layers of textured fabric and unexpected draping. Jane Tynan, a professor of Critical Studies at Central Saint Martins College in London, claims that dystopian fashion offers clothing styles that “make our bodies feel resilient against an uncertain future.”7 She also points to Rick Owens as a designer that embodies dystopian fashion. His clothes hint at the “quirkiness and absurdity” that people are currently living through.8
Owens collections, new and old, convey the same message of unwavering strength and beauty. In his most recent collection, Spring 2022 Ready-toWear, models clad in bias-cut dresses with extravagant jackets and capes walked down a runway that sat against a desolate, yet provoking backdrop.9 By combining sexy and powerful designs, Owens created yet another collection that empowers viewers.
Rick Owens is not the only artist designing for a dystopian future. While he has maintained a consistent aesthetic throughout his career, many other designers have recently started creating fashion with a darker twist. Matthew Williams, for example, used Givenchy’s Autumn/Winter 2021 collection to explore “industrial dystopia” while still maintaining Givenchy’s core design factors. The show was full of dichotomies, displaying a blend of glamour and utility wear.10 The looks were authentic to Givenchy, but still evoked questions about the future using fashion.
While dystopian fashion is not as optimistic as retro-futurism, it certainly provides comfort to those concerned about what the future holds. Its earthy references encourage people to return to their roots. It stresses reflection and careful consideration of the implication of new technology and innovation, allowing people to express their fears but also find strength in individual power.
Fashion will always be a tool used to cope with the impending future, whether that be by building excitement or creating modern armor. Retro-futuristic fashion is a style that will stay eternally relevant, and dystopian fashion reflects how we are currently using fashion to comprehend the uncertainty that lies ahead. ■
7 Bryan Tan Miles Socha, Miles Socha, and Bryan Tan, “Fashion’s Darker Side Comes to the Fore - Again,” WWD, April 23, 2020. 8 Ibid. 9 Sarah Mower, “Rick Owens Spring 2022 Readyto-Wear Collection,” Vogue, Sept. 30, 2021. 10 Olivia Singer, “5 Things to Know about Givenchy’s Elegantly Dystopian AW21 Collection,” British Vogue, March 8, 2021.
