Diamond (Alternatives) are a Girl's Best Friend

THE ETHICAL DILEMMA OF DIAMONDS AND YOUR NEW ALTERNATIVES Written by Braden Ross, Culture Editorial Assistant

Graphic by Nicole Glesinger, Contributing Graphic Artist Contrary to James Bond’s catchy phrase, diamonds might not be forever. Although diamond sales have increased in the past year,1 diamond skepticism and hesitancy have been on the rise over the past two decades. More and more young people are turning to diamond alternatives for various reasons. For one, there are significant human rights concerns that come with mined diamonds. In the early 2000s, the diamond industry in Africa, whose mines produce 65% of the world’s diamonds,2 became the center of discussions about the ethics of diamonds. Campaigns to oppose the purchase of so-called “blood diamonds,” diamonds mined in war zones and used to fund armed conflict, spread across the globe and raised awareness of the issue.3 Also called conflict diamonds, the production of these gems raises flags on an array of human rights violations, from forced labor and child labor to harassment, torture and mass murder.4 In response to growing public concerns, efforts have been made to curb the conflict diamond issue. In 2003, the diamond industry created the Kimberley Process, an international certification process that provides a way for consumers to be sure their diamonds are conflict-free.5 However, many feel that the Kimberley Process does not go nearly far enough, as its definition of “conflict-free” is narrow and only focused on the diamonds that

1 Pamela N. Danziger, “Diamond Jewelry Sales Come Roaring Back, But The Bubble May Be About To Burst,” Forbes, Aug. 8, 2021. 2 Aryn Baker, “Blood Diamonds,” Time Magazine, accessed Nov. 2021. 3 Ibid. 4 “Diamond Trade Still Fuels Human Suffering,” Human Rights Watch, May 10, 2018. 5 Aryn Baker, “Blood Diamonds,” Time Magazine, accessed Nov. 2021.

Diamond (Alternatives) are a Girl's Best Friend

benefit armed rebel groups, not abusive governments.6 In addition, it only applies to rough diamonds, meaning that cut and polished diamonds from unethical sources can slip through the cracks.7 Many have called for an expansion of the Kimberley Process to include unfair labor practices, human rights abuses and environmental concerns as disqualifying factors as well as stricter protocols to avoid approving smuggled diamonds.8

In addition to human rights concerns, the diamond industry, like many others, has faced criticism for its environmental impact. Contributions to climate change from emissions created by mining and transporting diamonds, deforestation, water contamination and pollution are all environmental issues that have been raised.9 In response, some diamond mining companies are taking steps to reduce their environmental impact. In 2020, the world’s largest diamond producer, De Beers, announced a plan to be carbon neutral by 2030.10 Although the industry does present environmental concerns, they are not significantly worse than producers of fast fashion or agriculture, and some diamond alternatives have similar, if not worse, impacts on the climate.

While many people are choosing diamond alternatives because of ethical and environmental concerns, others are simply not willing to pay hefty prices for a diamond, especially when

6 “Diamond Trade Still Fuels Human Suffering, accessed Nov. 2021. 7 Ibid 8 Aryn Baker, “Blood Diamonds,” Time Magazine, accessed Nov. 2021. 9 Oliver Milman, “Are Laboratory-Grown Diamonds the More Ethical Choice to Say ‘I Do’?” The Guardian, March 10, 2020. 10 “De Beers Plans to Clean up Diamond Supply Chain, Be Carbon Neutral by 2030,” Reuters, Nov. 30, 2020. alternatives of nearly the same quality exist for a fraction of the cost.

Furthermore, for some, diamonds— specifically, diamond engagement rings—are desirable for their tradition and status. However, a growing number of young people are ditching newly mined diamonds for their less expensive and more ethical alternatives. What are these other options, and are they better than a timeless stone?

SYNTHETIC STONES

Synthetic diamonds with the same chemical and physical properties as naturally-mined diamonds can now be produced in a lab. These lab-grown stones come at a lower cost than their mined counterparts and eliminate the human rights concerns that come along with diamonds from conflict zones. However, synthetic diamonds provide significantly fewer jobs than mined ones and an overwhelming switch to this alternative could result in a massive loss of employment, particularly in low-income countries where diamonds are found. In Congo, nearly 10% of the population relies on income from the diamond industry.11 Losing the revenue generated from the mined diamond industry to the synthetic one could have catastrophic consequences for those who make a living in the mines.

Contrary to what lab-grown diamond producers would have you believe, this synthetic alternative is not necessarily more environmentally friendly, either. In fact, in 2019, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) sent out warning letters to several synthetic diamond companies warning them against making misleading claims of “sustainability and eco-friendliness” in their advertising.12 According to a 2019 Trucost report, on average, greenhouse gas emissions are three times greater for synthetic diamonds than for naturally mined ones.13 However, it is important to note that the report was commissioned by the Diamond Producers Association, a group that includes some of the world’s largest diamond mining companies,14 and other studies have shown the opposite to be true.15

The environmental impact of labgrown diamonds is due to the amount of energy it takes to produce them. The process traditionally relies heavily on fossil fuels, but switching to renewable energy resources could alleviate concerns and improve the ethics behind the lab-grown rock.16

Beyond synthetic diamonds, there are other lab-grown stones like moissanite and cubic zirconia that give a similar look and feel to real diamonds at a much lower price than both mined and synthetic ones. Cubic zirconia is the cheapest at $20 for one-carat, compared to $1,800 to $12,000 for a one-carat diamond.17

OTHER NATURAL STONES

For some, choosing another stone entirely is the best option. Sapphires have been used in engagement rings for hundreds of years and were even more

12 “FTC Sends Warning Letters to Companies Regarding Diamond Ad Disclosures,” Federal Trade Commission, April 2, 2019. 13 Milman, “Are Laboratory-Grown Diamonds the More Ethical Choice to Say ‘I Do’?” accessed Nov. 2021. 14 Ibid. 15 “Diamond Alternatives,” Clean Origin, accessed Nov. 2021. 16 Milman, “Are Laboratory-Grown Diamonds the More Ethical Choice to Say ‘I Do’?” accessed Nov. 2021. 17 “Diamond vs. Cubic Zirconia: How to Tell the Difference?” ThePeachBox, accessed Nov. 2021. DECEMBER 2021

expensive than diamonds at one point due to their high demand.18 White sapphires give a similar look to diamonds for a fraction of the cost. Colored sapphires can give a unique look, although they can be just as pricey as diamonds and could come with similar ethical and environmental concerns. Other stones like rubies and emeralds also come with ethical issues but tend to be less expensive.

VINTAGE/RECYCLED DIAMONDS

Perhaps one of the most appealing alternatives to buying newly-mined diamonds is to go for recycled ones. Like thrifting clothes, buying diamonds that have been used before eliminates practically all of the environmental and ethical concerns of diamond production. Although the origin of a recycled diamond can’t always be traced, purchasing the diamond from a diamond recycler or pawn shop eliminates the risk that your money would be supporting authoritative regimes, armed rebels or human rights violations. Still, because recycled diamonds have the same properties as newly-mined ones, they go for the same price.

Diamond recycling is already somewhat common with the tradition of passing down engagement rings through families. This is a great way to keep a family tradition alive and to honor loved ones while also being environmentally friendly and socially ethical.

FAIR TRADE DIAMONDS

This is not a concept that exists yet, but it could soon. The idea of fair trade products began in the years following World War II and has grown since then to reach all corners of the world.19 Fair trade ensures that companies have fair labor practices, provide sustainable livelihoods and focus on environmental justice.20 The movement has spread from artisanal goods to food, beauty products and more, so why not diamonds?

Discussions of the expansion of the Kimberley Process have become increasingly common and consumers are more conscious than ever on the ethics of their diamond purchases.

18“Diamond Alternatives,” Clean Origin, accessed Nov. 2021. 19 “Our Role in the Fair Trade Movement,” Fair Trade Certified, accessed Nov. 2021. 20 Amy Shoenthal, “What Exactly Is Fair Trade, And Why Should We Care?” Forbes, Dec. 14, 2018.

From Marilyn Monroe’s “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend” to “Titanic’s” Hope Diamond, diamonds hold an important cultural connotation in Western society. However, an increasingly aware public has created space to both celebrate tradition and raise concerns of ethics.

Because so many rely on diamonds to make a living, a fair trade diamond certification could be a great solution to the issue of unethical diamond production. Fair trade certification would assure consumers that their diamonds are coming from ethical sources and that their money is being returned to workers fairly rather than being used for nefarious purposes.

From Marilyn Monroe’s “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend” to “Titanic’s” Hope Diamond, diamonds hold an important cultural connotation in Western society. However, an increasingly aware public has created space to both celebrate tradition and raise concerns of ethics. It’s unlikely that diamonds will fall out of the gemstone picture anytime soon, but with growing awareness, we can expect consumers to shift their demand toward ethically-produced alternatives. ■