Fashion's New Basics

HOW THE SUBVERSIVE BASICS TREND IS OFFERING A NEW RUGGED PERSPECTIVE FOR SIMPLE OUTFITS

Written by Manon Bushong, Fashion Editor Photographed by Jessica Tenenbaum, Contributing Photographer Modeled by Hunter Kiehl, Staff Photographer

Each year, layering persists as one of the most dominant fashion themes for the winter. At its core, fashionable layering is a method of preserving heat in cold temperatures without sacrificing a sense of personal style. Essentially, layering is a hybrid of fashion and functionality. However, when we subtract the functionality aspect, it creates a riveting and unique effect, especially when an outfit goes over the top with pieces made of varying fabrics and colors. We can see this innovative take on layering within

“subversive basics,” a new viral trend that incorporates a dystopian and avantgarde aura to ready-to-wear fashion.

Subversive basics is a term coined by Agus Ponzoni, a once WGSN trend forecaster who now works freelance with a solid TikTok platform.1 It encompasses a new way of wearing basics, one where the pieces are manipulated to be rugged and distressed.2 This trend can include anything from long sleeve tops with holes and uneven necklines, to layering several distressed stringy garments. Subversive basics often come in neutral colors to create a sort of dystopian feel, and many choose to layer a dark colorless pallet of different pieces to emphasize this earthy and edgy feel.

Rick Owens is one designer who is helping define the subversive basics movement, as his pieces embody an extremely post-apocalyptic feel with an emphasis on asymmetry and cutouts. His Spring 2022 ready to wear collection was full of distressed sweaters, uneven silhouettes and borderline crafty accessories.3 Subversive basic pieces frequently distance themselves from their original function for the sake of fashion, and Rick Owens’ collection pushed this idea heavily. Models were

1 Sophie Lee, “The Subversive Basics Trend is About Rebellion,” L’Officiel, 2021. 2 Alex Wedel, “Are ‘Subversive Basics’ the Key to Spicing up your Summer Style?” GQ, 2021. 3 Sarah Mower, “Rick Owens Spring 2022 Ready to Wear,” Vogue Runway, 2021. seen in gloves with massive holes so that their hands were exposed while the fingers of the gloves were empty. There was also no shortage of shoes with the silhouette of a high boot, showcasing minimal fabric other than the nine straps that started at the toe and traveled up past the models’ knees.4 This reverse utilitarian mindset made for a memorable collection of unique fashion concepts that will surely trickle down into more affordable fashion spheres.

Mildly edgy fashion with an early 2000s influence is undoubtedly having a moment, which has given way to the acceptance of subversive basics. However, subversive basics’ popularity is also fueled by the inclusive nature of the trend. These pieces are not designated for any particular body type, nor do they discriminate against any economic budget. While we can see many high-end designers embracing this edgy new fashion concept, it is an entirely achievable look to participate in with some old clothes and a pair of scissors. To create your own chic piece, cut holes in the bottom and feet of an old pair of tights and wear them like a shirt. Continue distressing it to the extent you would like toachieve your dream subversive basics top. This grunge style with an early 2000s feel will keep you feeling cool all winter.

Societal views significantly carve the way we choose to dress, and the subversive basics trend is no exception to this phenomenon. Following a year and a half of a pandemic-influenced lifestyle, many have been eager to maximize fashion as a tool of self-expression. With this shift, we are seeing basics—a word that alluded to jeans and a simple white top for years— take a new form. While it is certainly a trend at the moment, it also has the potential to permanently influence casual clothing culture. ■

4 Ibid.