MILAN FASHION WEEK Fall 2015 Trend Report
February 25th-March 2nd, 2015
MODA Written by Fashion Writers:
Edtited by:
Alexa Carlson Victoria Fok Alyssa Sage Phebe Myers
Paige Schultz, Fashion Editor Marissa Monett, Fashion Editorial Assistant
February 25th DAY ONE By Alexa Carlson Whereas Parisian style is known for possessing the effortless element of “je ne sais quoi,” Italian style gravitates toward vibrant luxury, exuding a fiery passion for fashion. Staying true to this nature of Italian style, Day One of Milan Fashion Week captured this aesthetic with lighthearted and impeccably crafted designs. The very first show of the day, Stella Jean, presented a collection brimming with unexpected combinations of unconventional prints. By pairing various graphic designs with floral, plaid and mixed pattern pieces, the designer created eccentric yet harmonious ensembles. Vibrant colors also played a significant role in this standout collection, accenting the beautiful array of statement coats that were covered in stunning illustrations of global landmarks. Colors were more understated at Dondup, but the energy was just as dynamic. As a whole, the collection emphasized edgy, rockeresque looks that were softened by elements of feminine sophistication. Staying faithful to traditional rock androll style, Dondup’s black, white, red and gold color scheme made looks stand out in an authentically cool rocker form, creating just the right balance of chicness and edginess.
Stella Jean (photo from Style.com)
Finally, Luisa Beccaria’s collection featured looks reminiscent of a glamorous 40s film heroine. Accessorized with berets and deep, bluishplum lipstick, the designer’s ultrafeminine ensembles commanded attention in colors like navy, plum, moss green and white. Overall, each collection possessed a strong aesthetic, allowing the designers of Day One to distinguish their unique styles in a way that emphasized their Italian roots.
Top: Luisa Beccaria, Stella Jean, Luisa Beccaria; Bottom: Dondup (photos from Style.com)
February 26th DAY TWO By Phebe Myers If Day Two of Milan fashion week could be summarized in one word, it would be excess. Whether that be in the starstudded lineup of designers that showed, or the exuberant Ewok-like fur, Milan was simply overflowing. Dramatic, fluffy, gigantic coats continued to dominate the runways, perhaps in retaliation to the harsh realities of winter. Max Mara, in a classic Marilyn Monroe inspired show presented camel colored, oversized, bathrobe-like coats. These Mad-Men-like jackets weren’t anything, but they were well-executed and luxurious. Fendi, at the realm of Karl Lagerfeld, created Ewok reminiscent furry toppers that could keep the entire city of Boston warm. Lagerfeld also showcased Ugg-like boots, which means that even he got the memo that the boots are back. Excess does not automatically connote luxury, though. Take Jeremy Scott for Moschino as an example. Scott has used McDonalds as inspiration in a previous season and this time turned to Looney Tunes. One can appreciate looking to unique sources for inspiration, but perhaps it could have been done more tastefully. Scott’s bright puffy parkas and Britney Spears era denim patchwork look like a craft project when compared with the queen of Milan fashion week, Miuccia Prada, who also showed today. Miuccia knows the Prada woman is creative, powerful, sophisticated and unafraid to try unique color combinations and prints to look futuristically modern. Miuccia does a variation on this woman every season, and this year Prada was all about unexpected color and shapes, with beautiful leather gloves and floral brooches. Milan fashion week has a lot to offer, from over-the-top color to voluminous coats, but still, “praise is due to the most fly, Prada.” Fendi (photo from Style.com)
Top: Prada, Moschino, Prada; Bottom: Max Mara, Prada, Max Mara photos from Style.com)
February 27th DAY THREE By Victoria Fok Known for her glamorous and sultry designs, Donatella Versace’s show is always a highlight of MFW. This season, models strutted down the runway in figure-hugging designs with thigh-high slits, daring cut-outs and colorful embellishments. Vibrant primary colors juxtaposed with black pieces popped on the runway with “Versace” emblazoned on several pieces. Also featured on several pieces were bright hashtags, @ signs, emojis and emoticon embellishments, giving a nod to the growing digital world. Contrasting to Versace’s bright colors, muted neutral tones were featured in Etro’s fall collection. By utilizing ornate pattern mixing, Veronica Etro created a collection fit for any boho fashionista. Citing tapestries, wallpapers and carpets as inspirations to Style.com, Veronica Etro mixed knit sweater vests with paisley brocade bottoms and patchworked coats, bringing upholstery to fashion. While the head-to-toe pattern mixing may not be everyone’s cup of tea, Etro’s patchworked and patterned coats were unique pieces perfect for any girl’s wardrobe. The bohemian trend continued at Nicholas K, where designers Nicholas and Christopher Kunz mixed loosely draped sillhouetes with edgy leather, creating an asetitic drescribed by Lauren Sherman of Style.com as “urbannomad.” Models rocked leather caps, elbow-length leather gloves and long layered necklaces, which added touches of urban cool and a bohemian spirit to the ensembles. Designers, Nicholas and Christopher Kunz, masterfully layered loose knit and sheer pieces and creating an aesthetic that was both free-spirited and chic. Etro (photo from Style.com)
Top: Versace; Bottom: Etro, Nicholas K, Etro (photos from Style.com)
February 28th DAY FOUR By Alyssa Sage The collections from Day Four’s top shows offered minimal trend consistencies in comparison to one another. Instead, each of these shows proposed unique stylistic perspectives on the fashion of these coming autumn and winter seasons. Ermanno Scervino presented a collection brimming with an abundance of enticing, contemporary interpretations of trends known for permeating the runways of prior seasons. We were reacquainted with an overwhelming dose of houndstooth, which was seen in varying collage-like iterations as well as in juxtaposition with competing fabrics and prints. Another resurging runway trend was cobalt. Similar to houndstooth, the Italian designer seemingly operated with minimal boundaries in his embodiment of this vibrant hue, as we saw it interpreted in velvet overcoats, suede boots, crocheted knitwear, textured evening gowns and tailored coordinates. Key pieces included a much-needed revamp of the notorious puffer jacket and enchanting, bedazzled eveningwear.
Ermano Scervino (photo from Style.com)
Antonio Marras’ sartorial nod to Marie Antoinette deserves recognition as Day Four’s most memorable performance. From the intricately-placed silk pillows that lined the front row of the audience to the 18th century décor to the show notes’ love letter format, the Italian fashion designer proved that his dedication to remain on-theme was immense. It was within his show notes that Marras identified Benedetta Barzini as the production’s primal inspiration and, by addressing the Italian actress as a queen, offered show attendees a thematic preview of the ensuing runway presentation. The regal prelude set the stage for dramatic, billowy silhouettes, lavish textiles and tapestry prints. The show concluded with a runway appearance from none other than Marras’ muse herself, Ms. Barzini. Judging from Marras’ reputation as a divine storyteller, the extravagant presentation of his Fall 2015 collection was unsurprising.
Top: Antonio Marras; Bottom: Ermanno Scervino (photos from Style.com)
March 1st DAY FIVE
By Alexa Carlson Every Milan Fashion Week, one show is especially anticipated: Dolce & Gabbana. Season after season, they have become known for large, impeccably-crafted collections, each with new and distinct themes. This year was a celebration of the Mamma, celebrating a central symbol of Italian culture that represents love and beauty. Dolce & Gabbana’s collection featured dresses adorned with embroidered love notes or actual prints of children’s artwork for their mothers. Roses showed up on many of the looks, possibly a symbol of the classic beauty of a mother and her love. In true Dolce & Gabbana fashion, there were plenty of lace frocks and intricate embellishments, but in order to fully celebrate the Mamma, babies and toddlers, including model mother-to-be Bianca Balti, took the runway by storm as well. From a brand that has been accused of objectifying women in some of their advertisements, it was refreshing to see a collection celebrating such a beautiful and powerful aspect of women’s lives. Even though Dolce & Gabbana showed yet another amazing collection, Marni presented looks that were just as strong. Featuring ensembles with a 70s color palette and 80s silhouette, dyed fur sleeves and pockets provided a colorblocked effect to wool coats and kimono inspired wraps. Simple, clean lines combined with rich textures of fur and python accents made for a unique, but chic, collection that allowed Day Five to end on a high note. Dolce & Gabbana (photo from Style.com)
Top: Dolce & Gabbana; Bottom: Marni (photos from Style.com)
March 2nd DAY SIX By Alyssa Sage The collections that debuted on Milan Fashion Week’s sixth and final day were few, but the diverse and myriad designs composing Giorgio Armani’s milestone-marking Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear Collection flooded the runways with enough fashion to keep industry aficionados satisfied until the onset of Fashion Month’s Parisian finale. Surviving 40 years in this cutthroat industry is undoubtedly an achievement worthy of great celebration, even for a fashion legend. While fashion design doesn’t have a tenure policy in place, accumulating four decades of experience and respect in the industry does essentially offer boundless design freedom. Armani tested this unofficial theory with an array of pant/skirt hybrid designs and youthful, bib-like necklaces. Besides these few quirky, but tactfully-done pieces, Armani delivered the expected assortment of trousers, jackets, eveningwear and lush textiles. The designer adhered to a strict color palette, which featured pastel shades of pale blue, periwinkle and lavender. Additionally, he experimented with metallics, vibrant, watercolor-esque renditions of his cohesive color scheme and texture-clashing—the most memorable being a monochromatic ensemble in deep periwinkle, which was comprised of a shaggy fringe coat, velvet pants and structured handbag. Another daring construction of texture was two coats assembled from identical square leather tiles. By grounds of this collection, it is starkly evident that four decades of fashion designing bares no threat to Armani’s creative capacity or relevance in the industry. If this collection was our consumer gift for year number 40, we’re already anticipating what’s in store for year 50. Giorgio Armani (photo from Style.
Top: Giorgio Armani; Bottom: Giorgio Armani (photos from Style.com)
MODA