Moda Madison, Spring 2016 Print Issue by Moda Madison

Jennifer Anderson Editor in Chief Emma Leuman Deputy Editor Alexandra Folino Art Director Rachel Wanat WUD Publications Committee Director Jim Rogers WUD Publications Committee Advisor Jack Comeau WUD President

SPRING 2016 Andrew Salewski Photography Director Reilly Koch Financial Director Jameson Zaballos Web Master Kelsey Daykin Creative Director Maya Campbell Fashion Editor Meg Rotter Lifestyle Editor Haley Nippert Culture Editor Margaret Duffey Arts Editor Sawyer Olson Mens Editor

Staff Writers Alexa Carlson, Darby Hoffman, Claire Hornacek, Kelsey Knepler, Ashley Mackens, Ashley Ng, Linh Nguyen, Taylor Palmby, Sara Schuld, Xinyi Wang, Eva Wieland Contributing Writers Brianna Pemble, Evan Winter Art Contributed by Alexandra Folino, Ben Orozco, Leyan Xu Makeup and Hair Joe Mckee, Laura Fillmore, Mikayla Holpin Photography Katie Cooney, Alexandra Folino, Marissa Haegele, JanaĂŠ Hu, Morgan Jameson, Andrew Salewski, Jourden Surre, Lee Troz With grateful appreciation to: Alice Walker-Lampani, WUD Publications Committee Creative Director

on the

COVER

Shelby Kahr photographed by Katie Cooney Postproduction by Ben Orozco Cover design by Alexandra Folino

1650 Deming Way | Middleton, WI | www.greenwayshopping.com

{ like retail therapy }

Only six miles from the UW-Madison campus. Take University Avenue west through Middleton. Turn left at Deming Way.

Go. Serve. Learn.

Who we are: Wisconsin Union Directorateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Alternative Breaks Committee is a group of University of Wisconsin-Madison students that is dedicated to planning service-learning trips for winter and spring breaks.

What we do: We provide as many UW-Madison students as possible the opportunity to make a difference for a community in need somewhere in the United States. Since 1990, we have sent over 4,500 Badgers across the country on our volunteer trips.

For more information: Website: http://www.union.wisc.edu/wud/altbreaks-info.htm Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/WUDAltBreaks Twitter: @WUDAltBreaks

Join WUD Alt Breaks during the 2016-2017 school year!

LIFESTYLE

SPRING 2016 FASHION

10 20 44 54 57

ELECTRIC REVIVAL Spring fever is giving us visions of bold pairings

HOME IS WHERE YOUR CLOTHES ARE Wear your home on your sleeve

FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE Lagerfeld and his ladies

FASHION, FUNCTION & THE PURSUIT OF COMFORT Bralettes are the new black

BOLD MOMENTS IN FASHION HISTORY Fearless fashion moments throughout time

CULTURE

14 34 47

NOT YOUR GRANDMOTHER’S FEMINISM A revolution for intersectionality

AN EMPTY CLOSET Short anecdotes about self liberation

SHED YOUR SOCIETAL BODY The naked truth behind the Free the Nipple movement

8 | Spring 2016

16 22 33 45 51 58

HIT ME WITH A SEXT No screenshots, please!

I <3 MY BIRTH CONTROL The pros and cons of popular contraceptives

BE YOUR OWN ADVOCATE Dare me to succeed

NATURE’S HEALER Aromatherapy to the rescue

BOLD IS BEAUTIFUL Using all the colors in your palette

RELATIONSHIP PHOBIA The fear of commitment is real

ART

17 30 46 50

BLAZE Pass the marshmallows!

THE PAIN BEHIND PERFECTION Effects from the demanding world of ballet

ART IMITATING LIFE Emotions of recent tragedy explained through art

CINDY SHERMAN: THE ART OF THE SIGNIFICANT SELFIE Putting your selfies to shame since the 70s

MEN’S

INSTAGRAM TO THE INDUSTRY From anonymity to #InstaFamous - one like at a time

FEATURED

24 36

COPY, PASTE, REPEAT I’ll take the Louboutin’s

MILLENNIAL MOD Welcome to the 60s (oh, oh, oh)

FROM THE EDITOR

FLAUNT IT

Although I’d love to say that I’m 100 percent comfortable in my own skin, the truth is that I struggle just like everyone else. It’s difficult to be yourself when you’re living in a society where people constantly scrutinize every detail about people who don’t “fit the societal mold.” But as I’ve grown up and accepted my uniqueness and my quirks, I’ve realized that I just need to be proud of what makes me, me. When I was seven years old, a girl in my grade decided to form an exclusive clique of girls who all wore paper crowns that she personally adorned for them. I told her I didn’t need to be a part of her clique because I could make MY OWN crown. Years later, when everyone decided to go to college in-state, I took a leap and moved across the country. I recently decided that whether I have a job or not, I’m moving to New York this June to pursue my dreams. But, it takes a lot of confidence to stand out in a crowd, to embrace your flaws and to bank on your personality. That’s what I hope this issue can do for you. Each article in this issue contains inspiring personal anecdotes that can help guide you to be bolder and claim your identity. Contributing writer Brianna explains the cultural acceptance of the Free the Nipple movement, lifestyle section’s writer Linh dives into the confidence it takes to pursue career passions over money and our fashion section explores everything from loud and proud international style to the boldest style statements overtime. My time at Moda, along with all the amazingly talented writers, editors, designers and photographers who I have met along the way have contributed to fostering my bold and unique personality. Over the past four years, I have become confident in the magazine-obsessed, coffeeguzzling, macaron-baking person I’ve become. And although my graduation this May means letting go of a school and magazine that has been a large part of my identity for the past four years, I know that everything I’ve learned will carry on with me for the rest of my life. I’m absolutely terrified to take a leap - to live in the real world and move to New York with no job and big dreams - but I’m also absolutely thrilled, because I’m not afraid to take every part of my unique personality and flaunt it to the world. And so should you, friends. Take this issue as inspiration, and fly with it. Go out there, and flaunt it. Bisous,

Spring 2016 | 9

DIRECTED BY MAYA CAMPBELL, FASHION EDITOR, ASHLEY NG, FASHION NEWS CORRESPONDENT AND ALEXANDRA FOLINO, ART DIRECTOR PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEE TROZ

AS THE TEMPERATURE INCREASES, INJECT POPS OF ELECTRIC COLORS AND CONTRASTING MONOCHROME INTO YOUR CLOSET TO BRIGHTEN YOUR WARDROBE AND MOOD.

NOT YOUR GRANDMOTHER’S FEMINISM

BY HALEY NIPPERT, CULTURE EDITOR DEJA MASON, BRIANNA PEMBLE, LEAH JOHNSON, JANAÉ HU PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEXANDRA FOLINO

“Your feminism will be intersectional, or it will be bullshit.” This phrase has become one of the defining messages behind the modern day feminist movement, and it marks a turning point in feminist theory. Coined by Kimberlé Crenshaw in 1989, the term intersectionality recognizes that there are multiple factors that influence a person’s identity (e.g. race, gender, sexuality, etc.). It is only in understanding how each of these unique facets influence an individual that the issues they face can be addressed. This was not something that was really considered by First and Second Wave feminists, for various dubious reasons. Women of color, and particularly Black women, were often forcefully excluded from feminist organizations and events in the 18th and 19th century because of the racist sentiment that incorporating Black women would demean the feminist movement. The intersectional identity of Black women was seen as inherently incompatible with the goals of First Wave feminism. White leaders like Alice Paul and Elizabeth Cady Stanton refused to recognize a common cause with women of color and invalidated their experiences, which were not only influenced by gender, but race as well. A similar type of problematic discrimination would later lead to the rise of Black feminism in the 1960s, when Black women were excluded from the Civil Rights movement due to their womanhood, and excluded from the feminist movement due to racism.

This type of exclusion is unacceptable to the newest wave of feminists. More and more, individuals involved in this feminist movement are recognizing and validating the experiences of women whose identities are directly impacted by other factors, like race and sexuality. They realize that feminism cannot be addressed without recognizing the disproportionate amount of violence faced by transgender women of color. You cannot talk about feminism without recognizing housing and employment discrimination facing the LGBT community. You cannot talk about feminism without addressing stereotypes like the “angry Black woman” or the hypersexualized Latina that exist to disempower and discredit women of color. The real shift that has come with modern feminism is the recognition that the way an individual experiences womanhood is influenced by more than just their gender. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the young women leading the discussion of feminism today. Two of the names that constantly appear in these discussions are those of Rowan Blanchard (Girl Meets World) and Amandla Stenberg (The Hunger Games), young actresses who have used the opportunities provided to them to advance causes for social justice, including feminism. From co-authoring the comic NIOBE: She is Life, to her criticisms of the stigmas facing Black women, Stenberg has taken an outspoken role in recognizing the importance of intersectional feminism in validating both

“YOUR FEMINISM WILL BE INTERSECTIONAL, OR IT WILL BE BULLSHIT.”

queer women and women of color. Blanchard too has made intersectionality an important facet of her feminism, as revealed in an essay published to her Instagram last year in which she covered topics from police violence to discrimination against the LGBT community. What marks these young women and others like them as remarkable is that not only are they using their platform to promote equality, but they are more likely to reach younger audiences that will be receptive to these messages. They are the individuals that adolescent generations of today look up to by virtue of the type of media they are a part of. Blanchard herself is a poster girl for Disney Channel, which provides programming to thousands of children across the world. Children are going to grow up seeing these talented young women calling for an intersectional vision of equality and that will impact how they experience the world and interact with others. But it is not just celebrities lending their voices to this new wave of intersectional feminism. With the advent of social media comes the ability for normal, everyday people to have a platform to enact change. #BlackGirlMagic was started by blogger CaShawn Thompson as a way to celebrate Black women, and it has since become an international movement, empowering Black women while simultaneously challenging standards of beauty that place value on Anglo-European features. In much

the same way, the Unfair and Lovely campaign, begun by University of Texas student Pax Jones and her friends, Mirusha and Yanusha Yogarajah, arose to challenge ideas of colorism in South Asian communities and empower the women that colorism has affected. This generation of women uses social media as a platform to make their voices heard, and as a result attention has been brought to the importance of intersectionality in movements like feminism. Individuals exist in a cultural context. Every element of who they are, from their race to their gender to their sexuality, influences how they experience the world and how the world sees them in return. The need to address these intersectionalities of existence carries over into cultural movements like feminism. While there are detractors, like Trans-Exclusionary Radical Feminists (TERFs) and “white feminists,” who fail to or actively refuse to acknowledge these intricacies, the greater modern feminist movement has shown itself to be full of individuals who recognize that intersectionality is a requirement for feminism. From the activism of actresses like Stenberg and Blanchard to students like Pax Jones, the beautiful intersections of female existence and experience continue to be explored. If there is one message being heard loud and clear, it is this: “Your feminism will be intersectional, or it will be bullshit.” Spring 2016 | 15

HIT ME WITH A SEXT

SENDING NUDES AND SEXTING ON CAMPUS BY TAYLOR PALMBY, LIFESTYLE WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOURDEN SURRE

Today’s millennials have become obsessed with body positivity, and feeling comfortable in one’s own skin. Embracing nudity is a sort of social movement, but how has this acceptance of sexuality and body positivity translated into the way people communicate with their love interests?

prevalent. Many University of Wisconsin-Madison students admit to sexting and sending nudes. Some students report using this form of communication to liven up long distance relationships. Others report using sexting and nudes as a way to ignite excitement, alleviate boredom or increase self-esteem.

Believe it or not, sexting and nude images have been around a lot longer than Snapchat or texting. President Warren G. Harding sent his mistress love letters in the 1920s. These letters were comparable to modern day sexting - Harding even went as far as to nickname his genitals.

Whatever the reason, it is interesting to explore the prevalence of sexting and nude photos on the UW-Madison campus. When sending nudes, it is important to remember that in today’s world of technology, there is no guarantee that your images or messages will remain private. Be careful with all sexual endeavors, but never be ashamed of the beauty of the human body.

Although, sexting and nudes have been around for decades, it seems as though this form of communication is now more

39% 13%

*statistics based on a survey of about 100 UW - Madison students

BLAZE WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY KATIE COONEY In times past, fires provided mankind with warmth, protection, light and a way to cook. While starting a fire is no longer vital for survival, we continue to build and gather around fires, drawn like moths to the glow of burning embers. A fire becomes a centerpiece for gatherings â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a place where light, warmth, good company and good tunes all come together. When friends assemble, the stars come out, and the moon rises high into the sky.

Sparks fly and hearts are warm. As the fire crackles to life, a sort of magic fills the air. In an age saturated with media and technology, people crave human connection now more than ever as the world has grown smaller â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but the distances between people have grown somewhat larger. Come together, connect and reflect around the campfire.

HOME IS WHERE YOUR CLOTHES ARE An individualâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal style is reflective of their history, culture and societal values. The clothes people put on their backs echo personal stories from favorite musicians to family traditions. These backgrounds and beliefs follow them, but a unique transformation occurs when people leave their native environment and navigate a new place, learning to adapt and/or remain firm in their ways. International students at the University of Wisconsin-Madison seem to do a generous amount of wrestling with their identity due to living in a new country. Through observation of their street style, their strong grip on expressing who they are through style is inspiring. Since coming to UW-Madison, many use their style to adjust to a new environment or to find a way to stay close to their culture. Still, international students dress for comfort and incorporate quirky elements of surprise with intercultural influence, just like students born and raised in the United States. More than anything, these students teach us that exploring personality through clothing is not as daunting as it seems.

NEW DISCOVERIES FROM CHINA XITONG DING

How does where you come from influence your style? My style is not influenced by the place I come from. I follow some public channels that post street style pictures daily and some people [on] Instagram. I am very tall, 5 feet 8 inches, so American and Europe style is better suited for me. How has your time in Madison changed your style? After staying in Madison, my dress style is more casual and simple. What would you say is the difference between Chinese and American style? What about different places in China? I think American style is more casual, simple and suitable for tall people. Also, American style pays more attention to details, such as your necklace, rings or bags. For Chinese style, since Chinese people are shorter we, for most time, don't wear oversized coats.

XITONG DING

BY KELSEY KNEPLER AND XINYI WANG PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREW SALEWSKI

FOLARIN AJIBADE

KEVIN BANNERMAN

DOYEUN KIM

INCORPORATION OF TRADITION FROM GHANA

VOICE DISCOVERY FROM NIGERIA

KEVIN BANNERMAN

FOLARIN AJIBADE

What are keywords you would use to describe your style? Traditional, artistic and “Too-known” (Ghanaian phrase meaning booster, swagger) What elements of your style do you think from your home and family’s influences and what has adjusted since coming to Madison? Home is a large part of it for me. Growing up, I learned that traditional clothing was worn to commemorate special occasions and show pride. The traditional African print is something you always see in Ghana. It’s almost as if I’m wearing a part of home. To be honest, I’ve started wearing more traditional clothing since I moved here. You’re in a different place and it actually stands out. For me, that difference is a chance to show patriotism and [represent] the homeland. What elements from your culture’s style are stereotypical and different from what you actually wear? The media has enforced an image of Africans that just wear bland, dirty clothes because of poverty. It’s not true. The African print style has a huge popularity that is evenly spreading to Western culture. Just look at the Dashiki. We also tend to mix it up a bit and wear things from Western culture too. For example: hightops and snapbacks. It’s actually very similar with the bonus of our own cultural influence.

Use three words to define your sense of style. Understated, neutral and mellow What are some of your favorite wardrobe pieces? I think it’s interesting that most, if not all, of my favorite wardrobe pieces are pieces that I’ve gotten on sale or for really cheap prices relative to their quality. I really like this oversized relaxed denim shirt that I got [inexpensively] at a thrift store, and this oversized Curtis Kulig X Topman sweatshirt that I got on sale. I also really like socks, so I’d say all the socks I own. What has happened to your style as time has passed at UW-Madison? As I’ve matured and grown as a person, my style has also gone through those stages of maturation and growth. I remember as a freshman, instead of working certain aspects of people’s style that I liked into mine, I would just copy them, even if I wasn’t fully comfortable. Now, I like to think I have my own idiosyncratic style, and I wouldn’t wear what I don’t feel like wearing or what I don’t feel comfortable in.

QUICK ADJUSTMENTS FROM KOREA DOYEUN KIM

Describe your personal style. I’d say my personal style is very dependant on my mood. I’ve always loved to try something new. It could be preppy, urban, street or chic, whatever I feel like [wearing]. This is what I love about fashion: you can express yourself differently everyday. You won’t feel the same tomorrow as how you feel right now.

Has your style adjusted at all since relocating? I dress [very casually] since I moved to Madison. I rarely wear coats and blazers, but [I] mostly wear workout clothes. Also, I’m being very careful about color, and I try not to buy “too feminine” clothes since relocating here. Spring 2016 | 21

I MY BIRTH CONTROL WHEN YOUR CLASSIC CONDOM JUST ISN’T CUTTING IT.

BY DARBY HOFFMAN, LIFESTYLE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ILLUSTRATION BY LEYAN XU

I first went on the pill in high school to help with acne and an irregular cycle. After discussing the matter with my mom (who thankfully supported my decision), I made an appointment with my gynecologist, and I got a prescription. This method worked well for me for several years. Recently, though, I wanted something more reliable. After researching the other options that were available for me, I made the life-altering decision to get an IUD. Yes, the process was painful and my body is still adjusting to the different levels of hormones, but I would not take back my decision for anything. The increased security I have from my method and the lack of maintenance it takes are truly gamechangers for me. Birth control isn’t simply “one size fits all.” The diversity of methods available provides a wide spectrum of options that

allows individuals to find exactly what works best for their bodies and their lifestyles. But, why even get on birth control in the first place? Although the main function of birth control is to prevent unwanted pregnancies, there are many additional health benefits that accompany its use. Acne, cramping, PMS, heavy periods and other reproductive and hormonal issues can be addressed by utilizing birth control. Deciding on what method will work best for you can take some time and research. Knowing the pros and cons is a good first step to guiding your decision.

DEPO-PROVERA INJECTION

DIAPHRAGM

IUD (INTRAUTERINE DEVICE)

THE PILL

• only need 4 shots/ year (one every 3 months), • free under most insurance plans and Medicaid • only $50- $120 without insurance, 94 percent effective with typical use • greater than 99 percent effective with perfect use, • private, may give you shorter/ lighter periods • can be used by women who can’t take Estrogen

• free with Medicaid • free or low cost with insurance • only costs up to $7.50 without insurance • you can have sex as many times as you want with it in • it doesn’t affect your hormones • decreases risk of pelvic inflammatory disease and tubal infertility

• long term protections (312 years) • no maintenance • private, free with most insurance plans and Medicaid • nothing that can be lost or forgotten • safe for smokers and those with hypertension and diabetes • Progestin IUDs may make your periods lighter/stop

• you have a choice between Progestin-only and Estrogen-Progestin combination • predictable periods or ability to skip periods • free under most insurance plans and Medicaid • costs only $10–$50 a month without insurance • can help with acne, cramps and PMS

- +

PATCH

- +

RING

- +

IMPLANT

• possible irregular bleeding • increased appetite • weight gain • still risk getting STD/STI • involves needles • may alter sex drive • possible side-effects may include: depression, hair loss, nervousness, headaches, nausea and sore breasts

• must be used with spermicide to be effective • must be comfortable with inserting • must be inserted every time you have sex • may not be available at your pharmacy • can cause irritation • possible urinary tract infections

• without insurance, may cost between $500 and $932 • requires a mild procedure, spotting, heavier periods, cramps and backaches • risk of IUD pushing through the wall of the uterus • risk of dislodging if using a tampon or menstrual cup

• requires time-sensitive attention each day • could be difficult to remember • possible spotting between periods • sore breasts • nausea and vomiting • change in your sex drive • forgetting to take consistently can put you at greater risk of unplanned pregnancy

• regular and predictable periods • free under most insurance plans and Medicaid • without insurance only costs between $30-$85 • 91 percent effective with typical use, less effort than the pill, easy to use, may help with acne, cramps and PMS, can help with other health problems (cancer, cysts, P.I.D.)

• free under most insurance plans and Medicaid • without insurance cost can range from $30-$75 • similar to using a tampon • shorter/ lighter periods • can help with acne, cramps and PMS • uses a lower dose of hormones

• small, discreet and private • prevents pregnancy for up to three years • no maintenance • free under most insurance plans and Medicaid • nothing that can be lost or forgotten • may give you fewer/ lighter periods • safe for smokers and those with hypertension and diabetes

• only comes in one color (beige) • may be less effective if you weigh more than 198 pounds • may affect your sex drive • possible spotting between periods • breast tenderness • nausea and vomiting • skin irritation

• spotting in between periods • breast tenderness • nausea and vomiting • may affect sex drive • increased vaginal discharge • irritation or infection • must be stored in refrigerator if stored for more than four months (privacy issue)

• without insurance, cost can range from $450$800 • must use backup birth control method for first week if you’re not on your period • possible side-effects may include acne, change in appetite and sex drive, Ovarian cysts, depression, hair loss, headaches, hair loss, and nausea

OTHER METHODS Other options for contraception include: female condom, male condom, cervical cap, sponge, spermicide, withdrawal, sterilization, emergency contraception, restraint/ abstinence and fertility awareness For more detailed information about these methods of contraception, talk to your doctor and visit www.healthline.com Information sourced from bedsider.org

Spring 2016 | 23

BAG | HERMES

, Y P O C

PA ST E

REPEAT WRITTEN BY MAYA CAMPBELL, FASHION EDITOR ELEANOR LARSEN PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEXANDRA FOLINO, ART DIRECTOR ART DESIGN BY ALEXANDRA FOLINO MAKEUP BY JOE MCKEE, LIFESTYLE WRITER The beauty in fashion lies not only in parades of chiffon dresses or sashaying models in new-age punk-wear branded by Lagerfeld, but also in the fact that for the majority of the time, it’s ok and even encouraged to live and dream in a fantasy world. As a kid who spent most of her time staring at blank walls behind which, parallel universes and Yves Saint Laurent Muse bags of every color were my reality, the fantasy behind fashion is perhaps the primary reason I fell in love with the industry. It’s a world in which $10,000 handbags are commonplace and one outfit is often equivalent to yearly salaries. Therefore, those of us lacking luck and affluent surroundings primarily interact with lustful fashion items virtually or in our heads. So, when it comes to putting our sartorial visions on the page without an American Vogue budget, why not do it in a way that aligns with our imagination?

EARRINGS | FARAH KHAN

SHOES | CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

BELT | CHANEL

DRESS | GIABATTISTA VALLI COUTURE

T H E PA I N B E H I N D

PERFECTION

here is something magical about the ballet. For any age, the delightful score, extravagant sets, elegant costumes and brilliant dancing make it a mesmerizing experience. However, the seemingly effortless perfection is anything but. As one of the most respected classical arts in the world, it has stood the test of time both on stage and, unfortunately, backstage. Behind the breathtaking performances, many ballet dancers lead troubled and dark lives. The most pressing issue is the prevalence of eating disorders. Balletâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s core emphasis on aesthetic creates an unhealthy focus on thinness. Directors cast according to appearance, forcing dancers to strive for the perfect bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;long legs, arms and neck, small torso, flexible feet and overall slenderness. Dancers push their bodies in an effort to attain a nearly impossible level of perfection. This, paired with disordered eating at a rate that far exceeds the broader population, can create a low self-esteem in the dancers. Eighty-three percent of professional level dancers assessed in 30 | Spring 2016

a 2006 study by the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center suffered from eating disorders1. Disorders like bulimia-nervosa and anorexia torment dancers physiologically and physically, leading to the decline of their health. When professional dancers are selected before hitting puberty, the intensity of their lifestyles and thinness can delay the start of their menstruation cycles, which may not begin until after retiring from ballet. The absence of a period, called amenorrhea, develops when food intake does not compensate for energy lost during exercise, and the body conserves by stopping, or never initiating, the cycle. While not menstruating may sound convenient, especially for ballet dancers, amenorrhea causes lasting health implications, including reproductive incapability and low estrogen levels. Because estrogen is an important component of bone strength, dancers with amenorrhea have low bone density and are prone to devastating career-ending injuries.

“DANCING IS THE FIRE THAT DRIVES A DANCER’S PASSION AND EXISTENCE, AND THE ART HAS INCREDIBLE OUTSIDE APPEAL. HOWEVER, CHANGE NEEDS TO HAPPEN, AND SOCIETAL AWARENESS OF THE HARDSHIPS DANCERS FACE MUST INCREASE.”

BY EVA WIELAND, ARTS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ALYSSA SWITZER AND JOYCE GAFFNEY PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREW SALEWSKI

Dancers are also more prone to becoming tobacco smokers. Forty percent of professional ballet dancers aged 18-34 smoke while 25 percent of Americans in the same age range do2. While the common reasoning behind it would be for weight-control, more dancers say they smoke for relaxation and enjoyment, not considering the long term health effects3. Smoking can be seen as a social component of ballet. With many artistic directors and dancers smoking, new dancers use it as a tactic to fit in. Beyond physical challenges, a lack of diversity mars the industry. Also stemming from a focus on image, skin color plays a major role in casting and company selections. Because there are few established roles for dark-skinned dancers, minority dancers have minimal opportunities. The first prima ballerina of color in American Ballet Theatre’s history, Misty Copeland, is an incredible advocate for diversification, but momentum is still slow.

Male ballet dancers face many of the same hardships as women in the industry, and are often dubbed as weak, despite being among the most powerful male athletes. Although there is a large gay presence in the ballet industry, it has become a stereotype tagged to all male ballet dancers, which, especially for young male dancers, makes them targets of bullying. Serious ballet training additionally requires intense dedication. It establishes obedience and work ethic in dancers early on in their dancing careers, skills which positively transcend into many facets of life, enabling them to be perfectionists. Throughout their life of technique training, they develop incredible muscular control, flexibility and endurance. As ballet embodies both athletic and artistic characteristics, after years of experience, it also guides them to develop musicality and acting abilities. Conveying the story of a three-hour long performance, using only pantomime and expressions, makes acting and connecting emotionally with the core essential elements of Spring 2016 | 31

ballet. Nevertheless, these skills come at a price as dancers sacrifice many opportunities and time to fully devote to their training. While being pushed to the limit mentally and physically, many might ask, “why do they still dance?” Dancing is the fire that drives a dancer’s passion and existence, and the art has incredible outside appeal. However, change needs to happen, and societal awareness of the hardships dancers face must increase. Supporting Copeland’s diversification campaign and promoting the creation of a law similar to France’s healthy BMI requirement are possible improvements to the work environment of professional dancers. Changes like these can support dancers so they can pursue their dreams without lasting negative implications, helping to keep the ballet world moving with other facets of societal progress. 1. nationaleatingdisorders.org 2. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov 3. columbia.edu

32 | Spring 2016

BE YOUR OWN ADVOCATE RAISE YOUR HAND IF YOU’VE BEEN TOLD TO CHOOSE A DIFFERENT CAREER PATH. BY LINH NGUYEN, LIFESTYLE WRITER MODELED BY ANNA THOMAS, KIKI TAO, BAILEY GILL KULAS, BENJAMIN HELFERT AND TRIEU HOANG PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARISSA HAEGELE It happens to the best of us. No matter how goodlooking, smart, successful or talented you and I might be, somebody will have something negative to say about us. It is a tough world out there, and not everyone will like you for who you are. So how do you stay sane and true to yourself? I went against my parents’ preferences. They wanted me to become a lawyer or a businesswoman, because being a journalist would be too challenging and arduous for a woman while not helping me to earn a ton. They didn’t force me into it, and I’m thankful for their never-ending support. But I know they still have their concerns. However, not everyone’s parents are as understanding as mine. I have friends who secretly changed their majors once they got into college. Instead of studying engineering, my friend is pursuing his passions in political science and theatre, and he’s loving every bit of it. When it comes to professions, many of us students who are social sciences or humanities majors know better than anyone that we will probably be making just enough money to scrape by fresh out of college. According to a 2014 Pew Research study, a reporter makes only 65 cents for every dollar a PR specialist makes. Journalism and mass communication doesn’t even make it to top 100 of the highest paying bachelor’s degrees. Meanwhile, majors such as Engineering, Computer Science and Business comparatively make a fortune at entry-level jobs ($70,000 versus $38,000).

These statistics should not become a deterrent to the pursuit of career choice though, because your future career doesn’t have to be directly related to your major. You can always learn new skills and branch out to other fields once you have the essentials. But it’s not always about money. Some careers, specifically journalism, are very rewarding. It depends on what your ultimate career goals mean to you. What do you want to achieve in life? Do you want to contribute to the society or to the arts? Do you want to help the poor and weak around the world? It’s all up to you. This is not to say that millennials don’t acknowledge the naivety of the saying, “Do what you love and you never have to work a day in your life.” Yet, to me, it still seems better than having to dread going to work every morning. I am a firm believer that if you don’t love what you do and strive to be the best at it, you may find the road to your desired success full of potholes. Imagine when your entire life flashes before your eyes in your last moments. Will you be pleased with what you see, or will you regret not chasing your career ambitions by letting money chase you? That said, I hope you continue to advocate for yourself, though I know it’s easier said than done. Live intentionally and succeed in what you do, whatever it might be, because then no one can doubt you anymore. Be happy, proud and wise with your life choices, because no one else can be a better you than you.

“AN EMPTY CLOSET: I wish I was one of those people that could say “I always knew I was gay.” But I’m not. I was in denial for a very long time. I mean, there were clues in middle and high school. There were so many awkward showers in gym class [and] so many times I took a girl to the dance because I felt like I had to. There was even that girl that I dated for six months to try to prove something to myself, even though I was secretly watching gay porn when she wasn’t around. But I was from a conservative small town and could never be different. As I moved through my college experience though, I realized that if I had the slightest interest in other guys, I might as well try it out. If I didn’t, I would never be happy with who I am. So I downloaded the hookup apps and went with it. After a few months, I told one of my best friends, then another [and] then more. Pretty soon my whole college friend group knew. Then I met a guy. He was everything I wanted. We started dating and our relationship was everything that I wished I had when I tried to date girls. He motivated me to tell my parents. I am still in an awkward place with my family. They say they still love me, but I know that me being gay embarrasses them. I am happy though, and I know they’ll get used to it. Coming out made me more comfortable with who I am, and I know it will just take time for them. For now, my boyfriend is amazing, and eventually they will also realize that. - Anonymous

34 | Spring 2016

A COLLECTION OF COMING OUT STORIES

CURATED BY HALEY NIPPERT

I first came out as transgender to one of my bi friends in high school. She was incredibly supportive and helpful, and she was the only one I opened up to for a while after that. I wasn’t really able to do much to change my appearance, since I was still living with my parents, but I did start to plan things out. The summer after senior year, I came out to the rest of my (straight) high school friends, and they were also incredibly supportive. It was a huge confidence boost at a time when I really needed one. I came out to my parents the same summer, about a month before I was going to college. They were in France at the time, so we really didn’t get much time to discuss it which was great from my perspective. I think they were pretty offended that I came out to my friends first, but honestly the experience of coming out and getting immediate support was really important to me. My dad understood pretty quickly, but my mother was really antagonistic. Even two and a half years later, I don’t think she really believes I’m transgender. When I got to college, I think almost everyone I met figured out that I’m trans based on how I dressed. I didn’t really say anything, but most of my close friends asked me at one point or another, and I answered them all honestly. Friends even called me “she” before I told them anything and I got strange looks using the men’s room. The summer after sophomore year, I made a coming out post on Facebook. I got overwhelming support from tons of friends, which was a rush. I didn’t expect people to be so excited about a trans woman, but I guess I was expecting my mother’s reaction from everybody. I think coming out on Facebook ended up mainly serving me. Pretty much everyone else in my life had already noticed, but this cleared things up for them so I didn’t have to tell everyone in my life one-on-one. Facebook was a lot more practical than I expected. I don’t usually tell people in my life anymore. I don’t feel particularly dishonest about it, usually, since I think the expectation that everyone is cis until proven otherwise is kind of ridiculous. It comes up now and again with strangers – like someone asking me for a tampon – but I think my friends figure it out themselves. - Anonymous

It was fall break of my sophomore year in high school. My mom and I were going to NYC to visit some friends and we had a layover in Dallas. It was October 11, and I happened to see a post on Facebook about National Coming Out Day. I hadn’t planned to come out, but something about knowing that it was NCOD lit a spark. It was almost time to board the plane, and I planned on doing it during the flight. I figured that I’d have plenty of time to answer questions, and I certainly didn’t anticipate a negative reaction. We ended up seated on opposite ends of the plane. Well, by this point I had completely psyched myself up for it. I was beyond anxious and spent the next four hours in agony as I waited for the plane to land. When we were finally off the plane, I tried to bring the subject up, but my poor mom was trying to hurry us to baggage claim and then to our friends’ waiting car. I got as far as to say, “Mom, I’ve got something I need to tell you. It’s National Coming Out Day…” before she cut me off with, “We don’t have time for this!” and hauled my poor, now terrified, self out of the airport. We didn’t talk about it that night. Or any night. For months. Finally, one day while we were grocery shopping, I broke down and asked her if she’s okay with me being a lesbian. She looked completely shocked and replied, “Of course I am!” It turns out she thought since I’d said it and she had no problem with it, she didn’t feel like she had to follow-up. I basically lived in agony thinking my mom was in denial for months. Meanwhile, while we were at the airport I texted my dad. “It’s National Coming Out Day. I just wanted to let you know I’m gay.” His response? “Cool.” - Robyn McBurney

The first time I tried to come out, my roommate at the time asked if I was sure it wasn’t just my religion talking. The second time, my mom told me I was wrong. The third time was my first time having my word taken at face value when my best friend simply said “okay.” I should rewind: I’m a panromantic asexual - at least, mostly. I’m still figuring myself out, but that’s more than I can say of a lot of people. The number of times I’ve had to field questions like, “How do you know if you haven’t tried it?”, “Why bother with relationships without sex?” and “You know that’s not what being asexual is, right?” still boggles my mind even though it probably shouldn’t. I mean, hell, I didn’t find out that there were words for what I feel until I was at the end of my teen years. And, of course, being ace makes for all sorts of interesting conversations with potential romantic partners (which, being panromantic…). For a while, I thought I needed to be up-front about that with literally everyone I was interested in. That didn’t last long. What has lasted, though, is the knowledge that even if someone doesn’t understand where I’m at with myself, even if that person thinks I’m wrong, even if that person doesn’t believe that people like me exist, what they think doesn’t matter. Someday I’ll be fully out to my family, all my friends and who knows who else. But for now, I know who I am, and I am comfortable with that. - Anonymous

It was New Years Eve 1987. I was back from college my freshman year. I was out with some dear friends from high school ringing in the New Year, and we were heading back to my friend’s family home. We were sitting in her car, and I was noticeably nervous. She asked what was wrong. I said, “I’m scared. I think I’m gay.” She said, “That’s okay, I’m a lesbian!” We fell into an embrace of love, friendship, understanding and acceptance that ran so deep! It is a blessing that I am thankful for everyday! This was long before Will & Grace and every TV show had a gay neighbor or best friend. There were very few Out people nationally. I was so lucky, because as I continued telling my story I was met with love and acceptance from family [and] friends...and all of my employers. -Pete Kovac

“...EVEN IF SOMEONE DOESN’T UNDERSTAND WHERE I’M AT WITH MYSELF, EVEN IF THAT PERSON THINKS I’M WRONG, EVEN IF THAT PERSON DOESN’T BELIEVE THAT PEOPLE LIKE ME EXIST, WHAT THEY THINK DOESN’T MATTER.”

”

Spring 2016 | 35

Millenial Mod

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Add a punch to your spring look with bold prints inspired by the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;60s youthquake. Twiggy lashes and wearable tech optional.

Shelby Kahr and Lorenz Turner photographed by Katie Cooney Postproduction by Ben Orozco Creative Director: Kelsey Daykin Editorial Assistance: Alexa Carlson Hair by Laura Fillmore and Mikayla Holpin, Paul Mitchell The School Madison Makeup by Joe McKee

JACKET | CALVIN KLEIN TOP | FOREVER 21 PANTS | EXPRESS

DRESS | FOREVER 21 TIGHTS | RAGSTOCK

DRESS | ASOS SHOES | TARGET

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DRESS | BOOHOO WATCH | APPLE WATCH HERMES

FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE: THE SUCCESSION OF THE FASHION MUSE BY THE INDUSTRY IT-GIRL BY ASHLEY MACKENS, FASHION WRITER SAMANTHA KRUSIC PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEXANDRA FOLINO In Greek mythology, the Muses were goddesses of the arts. Poets, musicians, writers and philosophers sought them out for inspiration and guidance in their work, holding them in high esteem. Subjects of distinguished pieces like Baldassarre Peruzzi’s famous Apollo and the Muses, muses were thought to hold a kind of power that could make an artist’s work extraordinary. In the fashion industry, designers seem to feel the same compelling connection to certain individuals. Intrigued by the unique beauty of a subject – be it the angle of their cheekbone, the subtlety of their smile or their irreverent style, a designer can become shamelessly obsessed with one person, their “muse”. Figures like former Editor in Chief of Vogue Paris, Carine Rotfeild, were a part of a class of new-age muses. Together with designer, Tom Ford, the distinct beauty and former model with an eye for fashion, injected pornographic-grade promiscuity into the fashion industry. She’s the creative mind behind the “G”-for-Guccion-the-coochie ad and many others that are responsible for a plethora of flushed cheeks around the fashion world. After years of pursuing their own careers, the duo is still known for their reciprocal friendship and unwavering love for one another. Ford, in the documentary Mademoiselle C, credits their similar fashion industry lexicon for their bond. Though they’re the paradigm of designer-muse relationships, not all have stood the test of the time in the tumultuous atmosphere that is the fashion industry. Take designer Rick Owens and former muse, Jera Diarc, for example. After 12 years of working together under the umbrella of a stable friendship, countless design decisions, and numerous struts down the runway, the seemingly inseparable pair split after Diarc used the runway as a platform to express a controversial socio-political view. Owens reportedly punched Diarc for the offence and they have not spoken since. Still, graceful or volatile, we haven’t seen relationships like the aforementioned in the industry in a while and it’s hard not to wonder why. What contemporary figures in the fashion industry can we point to as muses? Is it modern “It girls”, the actresses, models and “models” with music or television royalty for parents that dominate the scene today? Some say the relationship between Olivier Rousteing and the Jenner/Kardashian/Hadid squad is muse-like,

while others argue that they don’t fill the creative void. Yes, these girls have taken the place of the classic muse in ad campaigns and on a designer’s arm at the Met Gala, but what other purpose do they serve? Though stunning, the “It-girls” of today seem to have a more shallow, yet mutually beneficial relationship with designers. So, maybe even household, or rather, ‘closet’ names are trading runway jobs for Instagram likes. Whereas designers and muses possess a deeply intimate connection, designers and “Itgirls” have more of a business partnership. Queen of social media, Kim Kardashian is often at designer Ricardo Tisci’s side, yet, she has never once been credited as inspiration for one of his collections. Perhaps she isn’t an inspiration and does not want to be. However, coverage of Kim’s relationship and ones like it have taken the place of classic designermuse stories. Shifting demands of the fashion industry are primarily responsible for this phenomenon. Due to an expanding consumer base, promoting one person as an unachievable essence is almost counterproductive for a designer’s brand. There is tremendous value in attaching a brand’s name to a young woman with a large social following. The “It-girl” lives an enviable life, but an attainable life nonetheless. Kylie’s Lip Kits sold out so quickly, not because they’re the best liquid lipsticks on the market, but because owning a product used daily by Kylie creates the illusion that we are closer to being her. This phenomenon remains true with six thousand dollar dresses from Balmain marketed by his girl squad. If “It-girls” were to suddenly shrink into irrelevance, designers would no longer have a reason to dress them – presumably for free. Still, regardless of the needs of the industry, what makes a muse valuable is their spirit and desirable longevity. Over time, a designer and muse come to complete each other, increasing the quality of the work they produce. When a relationship comes to an end, a muse can’t be replaced, but there is a new “It-girl” waiting around every corner. A traditional bond between a designer and muse brings more pleasure to both parties than a modern business-like relationship between a designer and an “It girl”. A muse holds a special place in a designer’s heart. For better or worse, the experience is worth any hardship knowing the iconic creations they made together will stand the test of time.

N AT U R E ’ S HEALER

Aromatherapy: the inhalation or topical application of essential oils from plants and flowers to restore or enhance health and well-being BY CLAIRE HORNACEK, LIFESTYLE WRITER | PHOTOGRAPHED BY LEE TROZ HISTORY:

Aromatherapy has been around for almost as long as humans. Anthropologists believe primitive humans burned tree resin and crushed leaves for their scents. Ancient civilizations in Greece, Egypt, China and India used scented oils for bathing and massages. Early pharmaceuticals were developed by isolating active ingredients in natural remedies like essential oils. As medical fields developed in the early 20th century, people began to think of aromatherapy as an antiquated practice. Today, however, many people are reverting back to aromatherapy as a more natural and less invasive alternative to pharmaceuticals ¹.

HOW AROMATHERAPY WORKS:

There is little scientific evidence that proves aromatherapy is effective in treating physical ailments². A study conducted by Ohio State University found that lemon oil did not change pain ratings, heart rate, blood pressure or stress hormone levels, but participants did experience improved moods after using the essential oil³. It’s not entirely known how aromatherapy works, but one theory is that aromas stimulate memories and emotional receptors in the brain, which can influence mental, physical and emotional health².

WAYS TO USE AROMATHERAPY:

Essential oils can be used for aromatherapy in a variety of ways depending on the oil and personal preference. • Massage: Dilute 3-6 drops of the essential oil into one ounce of a carrier oil (vegetable, nut or seed oil such as grapeseed or olive oil) or unscented natural lotion. Apply to the body. • Room or body spray: Dilute 10-15 drops of essential oil with one ounce of water. Spray on body or use as room spray. • Diffuser: Put a few drops of essential oils into the diffuser along with water. Follow diffuser instructions for oil to water ratio. • Bath: Put 6-8 drops in bath water. Avoid oils that could cause skin irritation like peppermint, spice or citrus. • Compress: Dilute 2-4 drops of essential oil with water and soak a towel with the solution, then use the towel to apply the solution to the body. Can be used hot or cold depending on the ailment being treated.

WHAT THEY CAN DO FOR YOU:

Licensed Massage Therapist, Certified Yoga Teacher, Birth Doula and Aromatherapy guru Sabrina Bodden suggests essential oil blends for ailments many college students may experience⁴. • To promote relaxation & calm: Lavender, orange, patchouli & ylang ylang calm the nervous system and clear the mind. This combination of oils can also help encourage sleep. Try rubbing a mixture of these oils on the temples or diluting the mixture with water and using the solution as a body or room spray.

• To reduce worry & anxiousness: A blend of black spruce, rosewood, blue tansy & frankincense can be beneficial. Bodden reports that a friend who was having a hard time adjusting to civilian life after serving in Iraq found this blend extremely helpful for reducing anxiety. After diluting this blend with a carrier oil, apply directly to the body. • To keep the immune system strong: Clove, lemon, eucalyptus (radiata), rosemary and cinnamon were thought to have been used in France to ward off the plague but also work to help keep away the sniffles or the common cold. This blend works well diffused or as a room spray. It can also be diluted with a carrier oil and applied to the skin but this may cause irritation for some people. • To tap into creativity: Bergamot, cardamom & lemon can help with focus while also stimulating the mind. These are refreshing while helping with focus and clarity. This blend can be used as a room spray or diluted and applied to the skin. • To fight fatigue: Rosemary, juniper, lemongrass, balsam fir, clove & black pepper are energizing. You could use just one, but the combo of all six creates an uplifting scent that helps even after the longest nights. For college students on a budget Bodden suggests starting out with lemon and lavender essential oils. These two oils can help with all the issues mentioned above. If want to start an essential oil collection, Community Pharmacy and The Soap Opera (both on State Street), sell a wide variety of essential oils. ¹ ”Brief History of Aromatherapy.” Alliance of International Aromatherapists. ² Deng, Cynthia. “Aromatherapy: Exploring Olfaction.” Yale Scientific Magazine ³ Kiecolt-Glaser, Janice K. et al. “Olfactory Influences on Mood and Autonomic, Endocrine, and Immune Function.” ⁴ Align & Shine: Wellness, Workshops & Creations by Sabrina Bodden

BANKSY | CNN.COM

ART IMITATING LIFE:

REALITY AS A SYRIAN REFUGEE ON DISPLAY BY MARGARET DUFFEY, ARTS EDITOR “No one leaves home until home is a sweaty voice in your ear/ saying-/leave,/ run away from me now/I don’t know what I’ve become/ but I know that anywhere/ is safer than here” -“Home” by Warsan Shire, 2014 British Young Poet Laureate

Over 11 million Syrians have experienced this transformation of their homes. With the Syrian Civil War roaring in a relentless fashion, over 220,000 dead and millions seeking refuge beyond their country’s borders, artists like Warsan Shire attempt to express the devastation through words and visuals. In December 2013 at a Syrian refugee camp in Iraqi Kurdistan, Reza Nomade created a photography workshop for eleven to fifteen-year-old children. He coordinated with UNHCR to turn the single workshop into a five-year project with workshops worldwide. The project, entitled Exile Voices, gives children refugees the power to document their time in their homes away from home. The photographs that emerge from the project provide a stark contrast between the idyllic images of childhood and their realities. Through the eyes of a child, innocence and hardship collide. In a French refugee camp, Steve Jobs, Apple’s deceased founder, makes an appearance in his signature black turtleneck and blue jeans but carrying a computer in his right hand and a bag over his left shoulder. Banksy, a famous graffiti artist, portrays the face of one of America’s most popular brands and

ZERVAN RASOUL

son of a Syrian migrant, as a refugee. The image pierces through a common conservative narrative in America calling for the rejection of Syrian refugees. Since the November 2015 Paris attacks, several conservative figures, including Wisconsin Gov. Scott Walker, have called for an end to Syrian refugee admittance out of fear of terrorism. Banksy’s visual localizes the refugee crisis, highlighting the harm in rejection. Converted from one of former Iraqi President Saddam Hussein’s prisons, a refugee camp in Iraqi Kurdistan provides shelter for up to 270 Syrian families at a time. Since 2014, the Rise Foundation, a non-governmental organization, has armed refugee children with paintbrushes and spray cans every Friday to renovate their living space, converting the gray prison walls into works of art. The Castle Project provides an escape from the bleak lives the refugee children endure, coloring their worlds with hope and positivity. The feeling of coming home is often mistaken as a universal sensation. Millions of people around the world have said goodbye to their homes, and the feeling those safe havens provided, never to see them again. Art sheds light on those experiences, providing uncensored portrayals of what life is like without a home. Information sourced from maptia.com, cnn.com, seekershub.org, un.org, castleartproject.tumblr.com

CASTLE ART TUMBLR

SHED YOUR SOCIETAL BODY:

FREEING THE NIPPLE BY BRIANNA PEMBLE, CONTRIBUTING WRITER LAUREN ATONIO, KIRA BROADNAX, KAREN FUCINATO, AND JOURDEN SURRE PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOURDEN SURRE

f I had a dollar for every time I’ve come into visual contact with a man’s nipple, I could graciously get Kanye West out of debt. A male body has continuously been looked at as something inoffensive and of little consequence, with terms “dad bod” coming into use to showcase acceptance of men of all types. For women and female-bodied people, though, the credentials seem to multiply overnight, and we are treated as sexual human beings who must watch our every move. In response to this, the Free the Nipple movement blossomed. A once small, self-described movement that addressed the sexualization of female bodies, it has grown into something much larger than expected. Lina Esco, the originator of the Free the Nipple movement, was sick and tired of looking at her nipples and wondering how the hell they looked any different than the guy’s across from her. So in 2014, she created one of the most empowering independent films anyone could lay their eyes on: Free the Nipple. The film explores themes like media censorship, sexuality and the sexualization of the female body as a means to empower women and challenge societal values. The Free the Nipple film spread like fire through the raging hearts of activists, feminists and people like me, who were just so done with bras. The film expressed activism in it’s rawest form, and Esco was set to make these women heard. The movement that would follow the film became about much more than just freeing female nipples. Women gathered together and fought against the censorship giants that controlled the sexuality of females and their bodies. They swept the streets of major cities topless in protest, and took to social media with topless photos and heavy doses of social commentary. This was something that went against all social norms and values, and these women knew the consequences were steep. But that was the exact issue that made this movement so easy to catch fire—we as women and femalebodied persons are tired of facing consequences and ridicule for trying to make a difference in our lives by bringing equality. In the United States, there are 37 states where a woman can be arrested and fined for being topless, or even breastfeeding, in public. This is due to the rather illogical notion that breasts are sexual organs, and therefore it is scandalous to reveal them in public. However, there is no scientific proof of breasts having any purpose besides feeding a child. If they are considered sexual, it is because people have sexualized them, not because of their inherent existence. The entire idea of female breasts serving the purpose of sexual entertainment acts as a way to disempower women and femalebodied persons through patriarchal means. The policing of bodies, whether it is through reproduction, sexual expression, or how people are allowed to present their bodies, has historically been used as a means to exert power and control over individuals and their personal expression. As bold as that statement may be, it’s true. Most of the “logistics” behind the inequalities of women in America derive from the white, patriarchal mindset of power. Females are constantly constituted as a distraction. They are “too emotional,” “incapable” of proper work, and even their bare shoulders are so sexual that they might distract a teenage boy in class. Disempowering women through their bodies has been a major factor in why we see these gender inequality issues today. Media has also taken on a large role in sexualizing the female body, by turning women into advertisements for products or promoting particular ideas. I mean, hell, they have “ideal” flawless women happily selling Viagra in the commercials, when it isn’t even a product they are likely to use themselves. These women are present to attend to the male audience, subtly implying that these highly sexualized women are theirs for the

taking if they use this product. Commercials like these aren’t selling women their products. They are using women as the product. The reasoning behind this is pretty clear, in that it’s because of how a “woman” has been, and still is, seen as a sexual entity in society. We are forced into a mold that turns us into bodies and nothing more, and any successes we may have will somehow come back to our bodies and appearance. These standards inhibit us as women from being the key to our own success, from taking credit for our progress, and from escaping the sexual confinements we are forced into. This is what the true movement behind Free the Nipple is fighting against. Many celebrities have supported the movement rather bluntly. Chrissy Teigen, for example, took to Instagram last year after a photo from her shoot with W Magazine was taken down for showing her nipple, reposting the same photo with different filters to point out their hypocritical censorship policies. Rihanna, another celebrity repping the campaign, was legitimately kicked off Instagram for posting images of her topless photo shoots. She continues to defy gendered expectations with outfits like her sheer Swarvoski dress at the 2014 CFDA awards, as well as her collaboration with Puma, which debuted this past February with multiple pieces that encapsulate nipple-baring confidence. This type of support not only allows the Free the Nipple movement to reach larger audiences, but also shows how women are taking up the movement as a way to empower themselves and other women. They have taken a stand against censorship and the inequalities facing women. It has become the ultimate campaign to end the sexual objectification of the female body and to bring justice to women for the hardships we continue to face in our daily lives.

We might still have much to do in the task of achieving gender equality, but there is still a light at the end of the tunnel. Because sexual objectification of females has been ingrained in our society, it makes the Free the Nipple movement a difficult pill to swallow. But let me just say: swallow that damn pill. There is no good reason why a woman can post a picture on Instagram, topless, and not have it taken down or reported due to the fact that she photoshopped a man’s nipples over her own. There is no reason Bang Bang, a high-end tattoo shop, isn’t allowed to share an image of the tattooed nipples on a breast cancer survivor’s chest. These two scenarios exploit the hypocrisy that goes on in society when it comes to the female body. When male nipples photoshopped over breasts aren’t in violation of Instagram’s policies, but Bang Bang is reprimanded for sharing the tattooed nipples over the chest of a cancer survivor, it is at this moment that we need to understand the illegitimacy that clouds these judgments. It is time to stop disempowering women and allow them to be the beautiful creatures they are. Eliminating the idea that women are sexual objects can be a leap toward resolving issues of destructive body image and low self-esteem, which captures the hearts and minds of so many women around the world. These are issues that derive from societal perceptions and have forced us to identify with the sexual judgments. Women are some of the toughest and most beautiful entities, and we’ve continued pushing forward despite these challenges. For men, women, and all other genders, it is important to stop allowing society to dictate the existences of individuals and let everyone be comfortable and confident in their bodies. The arbitrary

POLICING OF BODIES, “ THE WHETHER IT IS THROUGH

REPRODUCTION, SEXUAL EXPRESSION, OR HOW PEOPLE ARE ALLOWED TO PRESENT THEIR BODIES, HAS HISTORICALLY BEEN USED AS A MEANS TO EXERT POWER AND CONTROL OVER INDIVIDUALS AND THEIR PERSONAL EXPRESSION.

”

ideas of right and wrong that constrict the true expression of individuals must be slashed so that we can learn to embrace imperfections and natural bodies as the new ideal. And that starts with freeing the damn nipple. Spring 2016 | 49

UNTITLED FILM STILL #7

CINDY SHERMAN: THE ART OF THE SIGNIFICANT SELFIE BY SARA SCHULD, ARTS WRITER If you think Kim Kardashian is the queen of selfies, then you must not know Cindy Sherman’s work. The photographer and selfie pioneer of the 1970s has been there, done that— and is still relevantly doing so at the age of 62. Born in New Jersey, Sherman moved to New York in 1976 to pursue art. She began taking pictures of herself after graduating from Buffalo State College and found the “selfie” medium to be her truest form of artistic expression. Venturing off in the city by herself, she toted bags full of wigs and costumes to create characters for her photography. Gaining inspiration from 1970s feminist advocates like Gloria Steinem and Betty Friedan, Sherman models herself to embody the cliche representations of femininity. Her first series of photographs, famously and ironically named “The Untitled Film Stills” are spontaneous shots of the artist wandering the boroughs and suburbs of New York City. Despite the original nature of the pieces, they have an ostensible noir-esque film still appearance. In all seventy of the photographs in the series, Sherman dresses to convey numerous facets of society, posing as housewives, career girls, mistresses and victims of abuse. Sherman served as a vehicle to express pre-determined slots into which society places women. Unlike Kim K’s debatably superficial mirror selfies, Sherman’s film stills fiercely illuminate the social culture of the past and present. The dark mood of her earliest images depicts the stagnant and confined feelings of women in the mid-20th century. The uneasiness expressed through Sherman’s modeling is the most consistent theme throughout the collection. All of the women look sullen and out of place in 50 | Spring 2016

what seems to be a man’s world. In regard to her acclaim, Sherman had no intention of forcing feminist ideals. In an interview with Tate magazine, Sherman stated, “the work is what it is, and hopefully it's seen as feminist work, or feminist-advised work. But I'm not going to go around espousing theoretical bullshit about feminist stuff." Sherman reinvented herself with her following collections, transitioning to color in her Rear Screen Projections collection in the 80s and producing a grotesque Sex Pictures series in the 90s that featured sexualized mannequins. In the 2000s, the photographer produced her frighteningly lurid Clowns series and went on to successfully show at the Museum of Modern Art in 2012. Sherman collaborated with fashion photographer Juergen Teller to curate a series of advertisements for Marc Jacobs in 2006 and produced images for a Balenciaga campaign in 2010. On the Balenciaga series, Sherman said, “it was inspired by the idea of party photos seen so often in magazines where people, desperate to show off their status and connections, excitedly pose to have their picture taken with larger-than-life-sized smiles and personalities.” Just this past February, Harper’s Bazaar released five limited-print March issue covers featuring Sherman and her street style. It is refreshing to see Sherman grace the newsstands in the midst of the present celebrity model culture, permeated by over-familiarized faces like Kendall and Gigi. Instead, chameleon Sherman lets her artistic voice take the limelight, and as history has shown, her artistry is truly unrestricted by time. Information sourced from tate.org.uk, nowness.com, cindysherman.com

UNTITLED FILM STILL #54. 1980.

BOLD IS BEAUTIFUL

When it comes to makeup, Moda is not afraid to shy away from color. Embracing the bolder side of beauty allows you to escape the norm of neutrals and bring a pop of color to your look.

CREATIVE DIRECTION BY MEG ROTTER, LIFESTYLE EDITOR AND JOSEPH MCKEE, LIFESTYLE WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MORGAN JAMESON

FASHION, FUNCTION

& THE PURSUIT OF COMFORT THE GLAMORIZATION OF LOUNGEWEAR

BY ASHLEY NG, FASHION NEWS CORRESPONDENT CLARA OLSON PHOTOGRAHPED BY MARISSA HAEGELE There’s a thrill in turning the pages of a fashion magazine, green with envy at the sight of alluring clothes that exist only on our “Dream Closet” board on Pinterest. We uncover a world of lush chiffon that flares with a gentle breeze and embellished lace that delicately kisses the ground. While we expect these sophisticated fabrics to be woven into ruffled Dior gowns spanning two-page spreads, the fashion industry has a new affinity for “luxing” loungewear. We’re seeing silk nightgowns that ripple against our skin and ethereal lace robes lighter than air. Until recently, the term “loungewear” was taken quite literally— we reserved oversized sweatshirts and guilty pleasure “groutfits” for our unruly bedhead and Netflix marathons. And while sweats in the classroom may represent your typical sleep-deprived college student, loungewear also lacked detail and variety, limiting expressions of individuality to bulky collegiate sweatshirts and plain Champion-branded sweatpants. After a while, your favorite pair of Lululemon leggings can only do so much. However, as lace-trimmed satin bralettes and oversized cashmere sweaters make their emergence, we’re making way for a new kind of glamour. On the runway this New York Fashion Week, Kanye West and Rihanna collaborated with athletic brands Adidas and Puma, respectively, to design highly anticipated athleisure lines that we are all lusting after. Similarly, other established brands have gained significant attention from the movement towards loungewear. Take the slip dress, for instance. Originally a form of undergarment, the slip dress has slowly inched its way to the exterior. Featuring lace that outlines the chest and grazes the knees, at Céline, slips are officially flaunt-worthy. For an edgier style, consider the triangle leather bralette from the T by Alexander Wang line; iconic for its sleek material, it’s a minimalist’s dream for versatile looks. Regardless of the style, loungewear is making its way to the streets and cohering with intricate high fashion designs.

54 | Spring 2016

Perhaps the boldest steps into luxe loungewear this season have Thakoon and Calvin Klein labels stitched just beneath their collars. For its Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear collections, Thakoon juxtaposed your typical two-piece pajama set and robe with office wear blazers and culottes. At Calvin Klein, satin nightgowns with dainty ties and daring cuts were front stage. Together, the collections highlight the refinement of comfort clothes while maintaining looser fits and softer feels. So what does this loungewear trend mean for us? As college students, we have no occasion to strut around in an Alexander McQueen quilted satin embroidered coat and elaborate sequined dress. With work and classes, clothes as comfortable as loungewear are simply more practical. Perhaps, highfashion designers have been inspired by the irreverent chicness of a woman in a nightgown. But more likely than not, their changes reflect customer demands for functional pieces. Though college students are not the typical customer for the luxury market, the fashion industry is recognizing the large population of its customers relate better to loungewear than beaded “ready-to-wear” or couture. Hence, the industry is making a visible shift to better fit consumer needs and wants. Still, shining a spotlight on loungewear doesn’t necessarily mean we are ditching luxury completely. A common misconception of fashion is the idea that our decisions are binding. That we are either-or, never both. However, elevated loungewear proves that we are still able to intertwine luxury concepts into approachable wardrobes. Without boundaries, we are free to juxtapose comfort and elegance because we hate to sacrifice comfort for fashion. We crave the best of both worlds and have earned the right to dabble in both. So, a silk pajama influenced pant for the office? Why the hell not? Spring 2016 | 55

VIRGIL ABLOH, LUKA SABBAT, IAN CONNOR, HERON PRESTON | GQ

MIKE THE RULER |COMPLEX

LUKA AND IAN | @IANCONNORSREVENGE

INSTAGRAM TO THE INDUSTRY BY EVAN WINTER, CONTRIBUTING WRITER (@EVANWINTERR) The integration of social media into our everyday life has drawn resistance from skeptics. Once viewed as a recreational activity, it is now proving itself to serve legitimate purposes. Those who use social media strategically reap benefits such as greater visibility in their field, while cultivating and maintaining longdistance connections with ease. In the face of skepticism from an older generation, young Instagram-savvy influencers are doing what they want, how they want –– and they are achieving success far beyond social media fame. In 2013, a loosely-associated crew of fashionable youths began to host “meetups” where fans could socialize with them. These teens were budding internet sensations due to broadcasting their entertaining albeit immature antics to their followers and posting flashy ‘fit pics on Instagram. Among them was Ian Connor, now an established stylist and recent appointee to Kanye West’s creative team, whose ties to Harlem-based A$AP Mob helped pave the way for many. Like Connor, certain members eventually broke away from the localized fame for which they were known –– and began to turn those likes and follows into legitimate, tangible success. Eighteen-year-old creative Luka Sabbat boasts a long and impressive resumé; his professional experience includes runway shows for Yeezy Seasons 1 and 2, countless photo shoots with major fashion publications, and, most recently, being selected as the face of a new Adidas campaign. Sabbat – who grew up wearing Supreme and the like – has since refined his taste, opting for more lavish and luxurious pieces from Dior and Saint Laurent. That’s not to say he’s forgotten his roots. The New York native can just as often be found rocking a piece from one of his SoHo friends’ recent collections, and the iconic Supreme box logo has yet to exit his wardrobe. Sabbat attributes many of his opportunities to social media, claiming it’s just part of growing up in his generation. In an interview with Complex, the trendsetter described being contacted by Vogue via direct messages on Instagram for a photo shoot.

Mike The Ruler has been making a name for himself since he covered New York Magazine’s “Weird Wide World of Internet Fame” issue at age 13. Mike, now 15, is known for his inexplicably deep knowledge of everything sartorial; the menswear enthusiast picked five “fashion defining moments” in a feature with Dazed –– three of which dated back to before his third birthday. Mike now does production and creative direction for Uzi, an LA-based art collective composed of himself and fellow cool teen called Gabe of Uzi. Together they’ve collaborated with Wiz Khalifa, Kid Cudi, Boost Mobile, Billionaire Boys Club, and more. In an interview with MTV, A$AP Rocky explained that part of the draw to the influencers like this is that they’re living proof that you can achieve great things within the industry simply with relentless creative vision and an iPhone. In a similar vein, when Virgil Abloh – University of Wisconsin-Madison alum and creative director to Kanye West – came to campus to speak last fall, he spoke of “lower barriers to entry” provided by social media, meaning this generation is the first to have the power to reach just about anyone at anytime via social media. These influencers’ online profiles simultaneously convey elitism and accessibility, fame and regularity. We see ourselves, and we also see what we could be. But what we don’t see in their posts is the importance of having the right resources; Luka’s parents are established veterans of the fashion industry, and Ian and Luka were both cast for “Yeezy Season 1” on the spot after personal introductions to Kanye by mutual friend Virgil Abloh. This isn’t to say these creatives aren’t worthy of their success, or aren’t incredibly talented individuals. And the reality is that this type of internet fame, “rags-to-riches” story, can happen –– but it’s far more difficult than these cool teens would have you believe. For them, New York City is a surprisingly small place.

BOLD MOMENTS IN FASHION HISTORY

BY ALEXA CARLSON, FASHION EDITORIAL ASSISTANT AND XINYI WANG, FASHION WRITER

WONDERLANDMAGAZINE.COM

HARPERSBAZAAR.COM

CHANEL TROUSERS FOR WOMEN Trousers were not considered to be fashionable for women until Coco Chanel introduced them to high society by wearing sailor pants on a beach in France.

1947 DIOR & THE “NEW LOOK” Dior’s first collection, featuring cinched waists and full skirts, celebrated the feminine form as well as the lighthearted atmosphere that followed the end of the war. Harper’s Bazaar’s editor in chief at the time, Carmel Snow, called the collection a “New Look,” a term quickly picked up by the fashion industry to describe Dior’s refreshing style.

1940s

TIME.COM

1946 THE BIKINI

Louis Réard, a Parisian engineer coined the term bikini for a woman’s two piece, triangle top swimsuit in 1946. He named the suit after Bikini Atoll, the site of a famous atomic test in the Pacific Ocean.

THE MARILYN MONROE SUBWAY SCENE In the classical film The Seven Year Itch, Marilyn Monroe and her “flying skirt,” designed by award winning costume designer, William Travilla, became an iconic Hollywood moment.

1965

VOGUE.COM

THE MONDRAIN COLLECTION OF YSL When Yves Saint Laurent left Dior, he decided that women’s dresses should be more than just elegant. Inspired by the paintings of Mondrian, an iconic collection of six knee-length and bright, graphic dresses was created.

1946 2015 PROJECT RUNWAY Ashley Nell Tipton became the first ever plus-size designer to win Project Runway. Despite all criticism, Ashley proudly represented and designed for plus-sized women. “It was very, very different from what we’ve always seen season after season, and I think the judges could see that I pushed myself,” she said during an interview with Refinery29.

MYLIFETIME.COM

FOREVER21.COM

1984 FAST FASHION Fashion 21, later Forever 21, opened its first store in Los Angeles, California. The retailer created a craze over “fast fashion,” allowing people to buy pieces similar to runway trends but at a far lower price.

FASHION HISTORIAN.NET

1974 FIRST BLACK WOMAN ON THE COVER OF VOGUE Beverly Johnson, at the age of 24, landed the cover of United States August issue of Vogue, making her the first woman of color to be featured on the the magazine’s front page. FASHION GONEROGUE.COM

relationship

PHOBIA

College relationships seem to be on the decline as more and more college students are running away from love. But, why? It was two months ago, and my roommate was freaking out because she and the boy she’d been seeing had just become “official,” meaning he wanted to be her boyfriend. By the look of sheer panic on her face you would have thought she lost her coveted Kate Spade bag (which by the way she did a few weeks later). But, no, it was nothing that serious. It was simply the word “boyfriend” that had her questioning her entire life. I started thinking about the lack of college relationships on this campus, and how this fear of serious relationships consumes many of the people I’m close to. I decided to dive in and discover why college relationships were becoming so taboo. What I found specifically for the University of Wisconsin-Madison campus surprised me. In a survey Moda conducted, 68 percent of survey respondents currently in a relationship felt stigmatized because of their relationship. After establishing my observations were well-founded, I wanted to discover why. Fifty years ago, being single would have been outside of the norm, but now, being tied down seems to take some courage. When contemplating reasons for this disinterest in commitment, I first considered the appeal of hook-up culture. However, only 20 percent of survey respondents offered this as an excuse for avoiding relationships. As well, many female survey respondents claimed that hook-up culture actually makes relationships seem more appealing. Although hook-up culture may not be to blame for the lack of college relationships, it does impact the stigma surrounding relationships. “If you opt out of participating in that kind of behavior, it feels like your peers look down on you for it,” a survey respondent said. “Everybody says this is the time to be ‘free’ and a time to ‘do you,’ but just because you are in a relationship doesn't mean you can’t also explore your own interests and passions.” Many of the survey respondents noted that the desire to keep their options open was the root of their lack of desire to be in a committed relationship. A good friend of mine, and a selfproclaimed commitment-phobe, Jake Jaeger discussed his reasons for staying single.

BY TAYLOR PALMBY, LIFESTYLE WRITER JAKE MELLOR AND MORGAN KLAESER PHOTOGRAPHED BY JANAÉ HU “I don’t want to waste a relationship on the wrong person,” Jaeger said. I found this comment interesting and relatable. I understand not wanting to waste a relationship, because you never know when that moment of sparks flying may occur, but I want to challenge that notion. Sometimes love isn’t always sparks and immediate romance; sometimes love needs time to grow. Growing as a person also takes time and patience, and many survey respondents recognized the importance of discovering themselves. One survey respondent noted, “I came to college to be independent and grow as an individual.” The idea of growing individually is one reason I can accept as valid reason for staying single. It is important to not only know who you are, but to love that person as well. There’s a line from my favorite musical, RENT, “You can’t love someone else until you love yourself.” Everytime I hear that line, it hits me a little harder, because it’s true. Self-love is so important. So, taking this time to love and learn who you are and what you want is respectable. Could there be another reason that people avoid college relationships like the plague? I think there is another reason, and that reason is fear. This is a fear of rejection, of failure or of losing one’s independence. Throughout our lives we have been taught that fear is the root of all evil, and I think that lesson applies to love as well. We stigmatize the people who are in relationships because they are doing what we are afraid to do. Combating this fear will not only make those who feel stigmatized by their relationship feel better, but it may also lead to a new kind of bravery, because hook-up culture isn’t brave. Looking down on someone for love isn’t brave. Being emotionally absent isn’t brave. Love is brave. Committing to one person is brave. Going outside the norm is brave. So, be brave, and love fearlessly.

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