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Meg Rotter Editor in Chief Claire Hornacek Deputy Editor Alexandra Folino Art Director Victoria Fok WUD Publications Committee Director Jim Rogers WUD Publications Committee Advisor Deshawn McKinney WUD President
NOVEMBER 2016 Alix DeBroux Lauren Chung Associate Art Director Amelia Faist Sarah Friedland Claire Grummon Caitlin Gronski Marissa Haegele Cassie Hurwitz Photography Directors Briana Lerner Ashley Ng Jameson Zaballos Claudia Prevete Web Master Clarke Smith Xinyi Wang Ben Golden Staff Writers Arts Curator Samantha Georgson, Michael Lim Kenzie Bryant Maddy Selner, Dallas Thompson, Nell Yu Special Projects Designer Contributing Writers Kelsey Daykin Shiloah Coley Reilly Koch Ana Genthe Creative Directors Marissa Miller Maria Pareja Alexa Carlson Liv Schreiber Fashion Editor Isha Senghore Prashant Singh Darby Hoffman Regina Stieber Lifestyle Editor Yuan Tao Zashary Torres Haley Nippert Madelyn Waloway Culture Editor Bella Yao Models Margaret Duffey Arts Editor Mia Boulukos Marissa Haegele Jameson Zaballos Michael Lim Men’s Editor Jingjun Liu Serena Steinfeld Anna Olla Becca Timko Eva-Delilah Wieland Dallas Thompson Special Events Coordinators Photography Taylor Palmby Ana Genthe Marketing and Social Media Liason Makeup and Hair
on the
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YUAN TAO PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARISSA HAEGELE
From a young age, we have always been taught to love, respect and blindly obey our parents, and often for good reason. Many a sunburn and scraped knee have been avoided over the years, due to my parents’ loving guidance. Later in life, my parents advised me on relationships and education, helping me avoid unworthy partners and friends and assisting me as I selected a college. My parents have always been my support system and my ultimate source of knowledge, but lately I often find myself disagreeing with their logic. Someone who is repeatedly accused of sexual assault, blatant racism and a myriad of other transgressions is a candidate that my parents support, a fact that doesn’t sit well with me. Enter millennials. Deemed the generation of social media and “entitled” attitudes, we are constantly scrutinized by our predecessors. However, when election season came around this fall, millennials turned out to voice their political opinions. Although millennials did not perform as well as they have in past elections – 54 percent cast votes for Clinton, as opposed to 60 percent for Obama—there was still a large majority in support of Clinton.1 In contrast, according to CNN exit polls, nearly two-thirds of white voters age 45 to 64 selected Trump.
Whether you are happy or displeased with the results of this election, one thing has become abundantly clear: while millennials hold drastically different opinions than older generations, there are too many young people who forgo their voting rights, leaving our age demographic underrepresented. For whatever reason, it seems to be a continued trend, with baby boomers voting at similar rates when they were younger. Perhaps it is due to mainstream politicians’ failure to appeal to a young people or because the age demographic feels their voice won’t be heard whether they vote or not. Regardless of responsibility, it is something we can remember as we move into future elections. We can encourage others to not only voice their opinions on social media, but to actually show up and vote. Consider the effect your vote has on your community, your state and your country, and don’t let your voice be lost in the generational gap. Best,
Sutter, John D. “Millennials Did Not Elect Trump.” CNN. November 10, 2016. 1
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LIFESTYLE
NOVEMBER 2016 FASHION
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ONLINE SHOPPING? HERE’S WHAT I HAVE LEARNED.
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THE FASHION ICON THAT IS FRAN FINE
The dark side of online shopping
TECH IS THE NEW CHIC High tech meets high fashion
OUT WITH THE OLD AND IN WITH THE NEW Agism in the Fashion Industry
A tribute to the world’s most fashionable nanny
CULTURE
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A HOLOCAUST SURVIVOR’S MEMORABLE TALE The empowering story of Renata Laxova
MEN’S
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HISTORY OF THE SUIT From nobility to normalcy, a look at the history of suiting
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SKINCARE THROUGH THE AGES
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NIFTY SHADES OF GREY
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THE AGE OF THE INDEPENDENT WOMAN
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THE LIFE OF LIPSTICK
The beauty regimen that ages with you
STRESSED & COLLEGE-OBSESSED
What are students willing to risk for success?
Aging gracefully is all the rage
Tell ‘em boy bye
How this favorite beauty product made history
ART
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AD ASTRA
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HIP-HOP: A MOVEMENT IN REMIX
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SOCIAL MEDIA AS THE CONTEMPORARY CANVAS
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TIPPING THE SCALES: WOMEN IN ART
Connecting through the constellations
Moving to a changing beat
Millennials turn to Instagram to discover art
Working toward equality in the art world
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NOSTALGIA What goes around comes around
SPITTING IMAGE Something old, something new
Skincare Through the Ages BY BRIANA LERNER, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARISSA HAEGELE Taking care of our skin has fascinated mankind since ancient times. Cynics might say that this is rooted in humans’ innate vanity and narcissism, but I believe there is something to be said for taking care of the largest organ in the human body. The development and evolution of skincare throughout history is almost as extensive as the development of society itself. The most notable history of ancient skincare is in ancient Egypt. Cleanliness and hygiene were associated with holiness, and the products also helped protect workers from the intense Egyptian sun. Cleopatra herself reportedly used to rub her skin with aloe vera and take milk baths. There are extensive records of Egyptian citizens taking painstaking care of their skin with oils, aloe, frankincense, myrrh and a mineral similar to baking soda. These ingredients are still used today in even the most high-end products.
The ancient Romans were also known for their cleanliness, as evidenced by the use of Roman baths. Bathing was a daily routine that was integral to Roman culture, and bathers would be covered in oil, then scraped clean with a tool by a slave. This early technique of exfoliation proves just how key exfoliation is for healthy, smooth skin. In Medieval Europe, women would create their own skincare concoctions with locally grown herbs and plants, along with wine and vinegar. However, the mixtures became more intricate and would eventually be available from apothecaries. These all-natural potions have definitely been the inspiration behind many modern skincare products. Another famous historical face of skincare is the French beauty queen herself, Marie Antoinette. Her extensive skincare routine consisted of the classic cleanse, tone and moisturize, and she would use muslin pads filled with herbs
and rice bran while bathing. After her bath, Marie would coat herself in almond oil to moisturize. The ladies of the French court were also partial to heavily scented soaps which helped get rid of the awful stench of Versailles. The scents Marie preferred were simple ones like orange blossom, violet, rose and lavender. It turns out that Ms. Antoinette’s beauty tips are applicable to our skincare routines today. Not all techniques of the past were perfect, though. Women would expose themselves to dangerous chemicals such as lead and other poisons in the name of beauty. Today, thankfully, we have much safer and healthier products available. In our fast-paced society, we have a wide variety of products available to us at our fingertips. We can take skincare tips from the generations before us but with a modern approach. McIntyre, Megan. “Marie Antoinette Beauty Routine.” Refinery 29. November 2, 2016.
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ONLINE SHOPPING? Here’s What I Have Learned. BY XINYI WANG, FASHION WRITER
Online shopping today has become incredibly simple. With your favorite new trends organized into categories, offered in many sizes and available to be shipped directly to your door, the ease of adding to your wardrobe has become a huge temptation. Who doesn’t want to lay in bed with hot coffee on a Saturday afternoon and be just a click away from new clothes? Not to mention the excitement of getting a tape sealed package delivered to your door at just the right time. However, the internet isn’t always that kind. Have you ever heard of a hoax site? Well I have, and I have experienced being hoaxed online. It all started when I followed @teamkimye, a fan’s account for Kim Kardashian West and Kanye West on Instagram. With 998,000 followers, I trusted @teamkimye and believed that they wouldn’t promote unreliable shopping sites. Soon after, I became interested in a product site that @teamkimye posted on their Instagram almost once a day: “Kylie’s baseball hat, grab yours at @xxx, free worldwide shipping!”
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The website looked simple, new and, most importantly, credible. As a college student who’s been online shopping for years, the thought that this whole website was a hoax never crossed my mind. I played it safe (or so I thought) and bought a $20 hat. I couldn’t wait to see
“Us millennials think that we are so smart that the Internet can’t trick us, but it does, all the time.” it in “7-14 days.” However, it never came. After four weeks of no package in my apartment office, I sent emails, followed them on Instagram (which became private and never accepted my request), and the result was frustrating. In the end I just gave up, having learned my lesson the hard way.
Was I too naïve? Did I trust a random shopping site too easily? My parents always tell me to be vigilant when it comes to the Internet and I didn’t listen. As we spend greater amounts of time online, it is easy to lull yourself into a sense of ease, but we must continue to scrutinize the sites we shop on and what personal information we share. I don’t feel the same about online shopping after my @teamkimye experience. I feel unsafe every time I open a shopping site, questioning whether or not the site is legitimate. To protect yourself from online shopping scams, try reading product reviews directly on the site, but also check outside postings to see how they compare. While a website may be more likely to delete unfavorable comments, outside sites, such as a blogger or retail reviewing organization, may be more honest in their opinions. In the end, you are the decision maker for your shopping cart. If something doesn’t seem right while online shopping, it’s always better safe than sorry.
STRESSED & COLLEGE-OBSESSED BY LAUREN CHUNG, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY SERENA STEINFELD When I started the college application process, everyone, and I mean everyone, cautioned me of the copious amount of stress I would undergo. They warned of the countless all-nighters they spent perfecting every essay, down to the period. As I sat in my bedroom, staring at the blaringly blank, white page that was supposed to be my admissions essay, everything they told me suddenly became true. The workload of applications was an AP class in itself, with deadlines that loomed overhead, guilting me with their creeping presence every day. It was all horrible and I applaud anyone going through it today. However, what everyone failed to tell me was that even after I hit ‘submit’ the stress would still be there, following me to my beloved, cramped dorm room on my beloved, enormous campus. Somewhere along the line, the concept of college became distorted. With the increasing amount of young people going to college after high school, a false and ludicrous notion came forth: if you do not go to college, you will not succeed in life. Furthermore, many believe that if you do go to college, the one you attend will directly affect the quality of your success, your job opportunities and, most incorrect of all, your quality of life. This false notion derives from the concept of college being a name brand. When someone mentions a particular college, the name itself sparks an implicit image of the college’s stereotypical student on their campus. With all of these ideas floating
around the academic atmosphere, it is no wonder that college students succumb to pressure and break down in an attempt to keep up with the “pathway to success.” Today’s generation has most notably buckled under the anxiety, turning to prescription drugs. In 2012, the journal “Brain and Behavior” published that prescription drugs used to treat Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD) became the second-most unauthorized drug abused by college students.1 Twelve years later, this statistic still comes as no surprise. In high school, I knew multiple people who used focus-inducing stimulants to aid in their schoolwork, but college is a different story. Black markets for selling prescription drugs, such as Adderall and Ritalin, have been popping up on practically every college campus. Ingesting a pill the night before a big exam or writing a ten-page paper is becoming nothing more than a part of common college culture. In fact, it is not uncommon for people who are not prescribed Adderall to start to feel like they cannot tackle any assignment without it. How and when did our generation come to possess this dependence? At what cost can we, together with other generations, prevent this already rising epidemic? It would be naive of me to say that all we must do is relieve that societal pressure for success; that if students stopped subscribing to these unrealistic standards, they would not feel they need to ask prescription stimulants for a Schwartz, Casey. “Generation Adderall.” The New York Times.October 12, 2016.
helping hand. However, people will always buy into the stereotypes, and people will always be willing to believe what others say. But what can make a difference is taking a step back and thinking about what constitutes true success in your life. If it is happiness, then what can bring you happiness? Sure, maybe more superficial, temporary things like receiving an A on an exam or your standardized test scores will bring you fleeting joy, but those things do not define or limit you. The high standards college students are held to by society are false constructions with real consequences. The college you attend will not determine your pathway to be a millionaire. In fact, even after attending your dream school, that path will not be guaranteed. There are a myriad of successful authors, designers, entrepreneurs and more that did not go to “elite” schools; take, for instance, Bobbi Brown, John Green, Howard Schultz and, of course, Steve Jobs. The societal pressures, the name brands, the test scores, they are all a disposable reality. What is real is the ability to learn, grow and be happy on your own terms. Which school sweatshirts fill your closet is hardly a measure of your future, so why allow yourself to be controlled and limited by others’ expectations? Know that you are capable of creating your own definition of success and do not allow this senseless perception to force you, as well as your peers and future generations, to become “successful,” no matter the cost.
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n o s t a l g ia ...because trends are only the past repackaged
YUAN TAO PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARISSA HAEGELE DIRECTED BY ALEXA CARLSON AND ASHLEY NG Special Thanks to Good Style Shop
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DENIM JACKET & PLAID DRESS | GOOD STYLE SHOP
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2016 | 11 BLOUSE & TROUSERS NOVEMBER | GOOD STYLE SHOP
12 | NOVEMBER 2016 FAUX FUR JACKET & SWEATER | GOOD STYLE SHOP
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MEN’S
HISTORY OF THE SUIT
BY JAMESON ZABALLOS, MEN’S EDITOR As almost every college male has experienced, the process of making the formalwear evolution from nice shirt and pants to full-on suit is usually a riteof-passage into the world of adulting. At least, that’s what everyone tells me. The first few times wearing a suit can be pretty awkward, too, because for some reason, there’s this bottom button that’s begging to be fastened, and you’re told never to do so under any circumstances. It turns out that not only is there a very good reason for that, there’s at least a hundred years between the conception of suit-like formalwear and where we’re at today. The modern suit’s sleek and
trim look is the result of a style evolution taking place for decades. Let’s look at how far we’ve come. So to answer the cliffhanger button question, originally, formal menswear was limited to the aristocracy, and buttons were buttoned in whichever way the wearer preferred. There were a few decades of evolution prior to that, but for the most part it moved towards the idea of the Edwardian era. There’s a (conveniently vague) urban legend circulating that King Edward VII, in the early 1900s, was unable to button the bottom button on his suit coat, on account of his rotund figure.
Whatever the reason, around the turn of the 20th century designers tailored the figure of the suit around leaving the bottom button unbuttoned. The style at the time was becoming more and more freeform and loose, so the button being unbuttoned lent itself well to the look. This was the first major turning point in the life of the suit. Starting around the first World War, the longer coats and looser looks were on the decline in favor of what was called a short lounge suit (pictured). Hats were still all the rage, and if you’re thinking of time travel and are desperate to find a decade where you can finally appropriately rock a panama
1920s 1950s 1900s
IMGUR
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THEFASHIONISTO.COM
GENTLEMAN’S GAZETTE
hat, the 1910s are probably your best bet. This was one of the more significant movements toward the suits that are common today, as longer coats were implemented as overcoats instead of as a part of the actual suit. The 20s brought the classic zoot suit era, and honestly it’s the most stereotypical image of a suit I can conjure. Boxy shoulders (think a cartoon character) with pinstripes galore, pleated pants, long tailcoats and lapels so wide they covered most of the suit. Pair it with a fedora and cane, and call it a night on the town. The fits got looser into the 30s, with the snugly tailored coats traded in for a looser fit and tapered arms. I’m not saying this was because tailors are expensive, but it was the Great Depression after all. The next major change to suiting came after the war in the 1950s, where Mad Men drew its inspiration. The world was understandably in a bit of shock, and it translated to a change in suit style almost immediately. Thinner lapels and virtually no indication of wasteline meant that we were one step closer to where we are today. Muted colors and preppy patterns were ever-present, giving birth to books full of style inspiration. Savile Row introduced its new take on the Edwardian look, with a narrower overall look. Honestly, this (and into the 1960s)
is where society started to diverge. The traditional, conservative crowd stuck to its guns, while the rebels, well, rebelled. The traditional suit became a bit elitist, and style influencers included celebrities like Sean Connery and The Beatles. In stark contrast to the 1960s, the 1970s brought disco, and suits followed suit (pun one hundred percent intended) in what can best be described as the suit’s angsty teen stage. The colors and fits, most of which did not survive, are a testament to a necessary step in the life of the suit. The next two decades were extremely superficial in the sense that it was all about showing your lifestyle through your brands and look. Whether it was as a status symbol or the rejection thereof - as the 1990s saw - the massive changes seen in society (the internet and the fall of the U.S.S.R.) reflected themselves in fashion, as is often the case. Comfort seemed to reign supreme (as well as color), and the suit became more and more accessible. This wasn’t all good (the pinstripe suit remains to be mainstream outside of investment banking), but the practicality it brought stuck through the changes it saw later.
the classic designs. The suit as we know it today is more of a classic take, usually reserved for formal wear and business attire - the casual suit operates and thrives on the fashion fringe nowadays. Slimmer cuts and more visible waistlines are making a comeback, but the overall fit is pretty generic (and consumerist). Today’s culture of having a suit on-hand as soon as junior year of high school arrives means that, well, sometimes we need something cheap that’ll work in a pinch. Fast fashion, too, sees the suit evolving and becoming normalized and accessible. It seems we’re in the middle of another transition, where we take what’s old and transform, revolutionize and otherwise recreate it for the next generation’s desires. Millennials don’t crave a way to express themselves in suit form the same way those of the 1920s and 1980s did, yet, the strict dichotomy between formalwear and casual dress isn’t as visible anymore. If the past few decades are any indication (and the societal changes on the horizon), the suit as we know it is bound to change purpose. Let’s just hope it, like fashion, continues to push forward. thequintessentialman.com Antongiavanni, Nicholas: The Suit, HarperCollins Publishers, New York, 2006.
That brings us to the early 2000s. It’s hard to believe, but since then a lot of designers have been harkening back to
2010s 1980s
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A D AST RA T R A N S L AT I O N : THROUGH HARDSHIPS T O T H E S TA R S BY DALLAS THOMPSON, CONTRIBUTING WRITER PHOTOGRAPHED BY DALLAS THOMPSON My neurons are stretched thin. I have not heard of a police shooting in a couple weeks, but I’m also sure I have not looked hard enough. There is a black snake making its way through the sacred lands of North Dakota. A reservation, ignored for so long, is being pushed to the backburner because of capitalism. I’m afraid preventative efforts will not be enough to save them. Respect seems out of reach when the Cleveland Indians, a name that appropriates Native Americans, competed for the World Series. I withdrew from college almost six months ago to the day. While I have felt disconnected lately, two months ago, on a trip to New York I reconnected. Through spending time on the reservation with my family, I felt reengaged in my surroundings. My relatives in particular broke through the superficial facets of life when I hugged them. The realness saturated everything with meaning. Every house was a landscape in itself. While I was there, I made a double exposure photograph. A picture of a clear starry nightscape over my relative’s home in Syracuse. The creation of the image was one of the trip’s highlights. Finding a place for seemingly mundane aspects of life within the celestial world creates a higher consciousness. Flash forward two months and I am searching for the serenity the creation of the double exposure image brought me. We need to believe our stories are worth telling and this photo series begins to tell mine.
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WISCONSIN STATE JOURNAL
A Holocaust Survivor’s Memorable Tale BY SARAH FRIEDLAND, CONTRIBUTING WRITER March 15, 1939, was a fateful date for many Jews in Czechoslovakia, including Renata Laxova. That day, when Laxova was just seven years old, Hitler invaded her hometown of Brno. In a panel presentation, “Stitching History in Czechoslovakia,” given at Nancy Nicholas Hall on October 27, 2016, she recalled her mother waking her up that terrible morning.1 After being told she could no longer go to school because Czechoslovakia had a new president, she asked, “Is it Hitler?” Laxova’s mother was astonished; she had no idea how Laxova Bitzan, Amos, Renata Laxova, and Simone Schweber. “Stitching History in Czechoslovakia.” University of Wisconsin - Madison. 2016 1
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had heard about him. Laxova, herself, could not remember how she learned of Hitler, but she knew he would change her life. The following year, Kindertransport, a program that transported children from Nazi-controlled countries to Great Britain via train, was organized. Laxova’s parents wrote to an English politician in the hopes of getting Laxova to safety with Kindertransport, and she was lucky enough to be one of the children sent by train from Prague to Britain, where she would live with a new family until World War II ended. She was so lucky, in fact, that her train was the last to safely depart from the station. Though frightened at
the idea of leaving the family she knew and loved, she trusted her parents when they said they would find her as soon as it became safe to do so. Laxova’s new family, the Danielses, greeted her at a train station in Manchester; a husband and wife with a young boy welcomed her into their lives. During “Stitching History,” Laxova remembered the boy shyly hiding behind his father upon meeting her.2 While under the care of this family, Laxova could attend school—which she excelled in—and play freely. When war broke out in Britain, Mr. Ibid.
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“Laxova, herself, could not remember how she learned of Hitler, but she knew he would change her life.” Daniels took them all to a Quaker home in the countryside and they lived there for a year before moving to a family home. Throughout this time, Mr. Daniels kept in touch with Laxova’s father, updating him on her favorite activities. While Laxova maintained a relatively normal life, her parents faced hardship back in Czechoslovakia. Six families now occupied their single-family apartment. The woman who previously had been Laxova’s nanny snuck food to them, signaling her presence with a secret knock. This arrangement would not last, and one day the Gestapo arrived to take Laxova’s parents, accusing them of being spies. After pleading their innocence, Laxova’s parents were released. The Gestapo learned that Laxova’s father was Hungarian, and by the customs of the nation this made her mother Hungarian as well. Because Hitler did not rule Hungary, the Gestapo could no longer hold her parents as prisoners and sent them away to Hungary on a train. Laxova’s parents were separated on the train; her father spent time hiding in the woods of Poland while her mother adopted a new identity and became a house maid. Eventually, a man, likely a German officer, and his dog showed up at the house where Laxova’s mother worked, asking the owner if any Jews lived there. The man only spoke German and the owner of the house did not, so Laxova’s mother was brought to translate. Not having heard the question asked by the man, Laxova’s mother approached without fear. Had Laxova’s mother known the officer was looking for Jews, her inevitable apprehension would have hinted at her true Jewish heritage, leading the man to take her to a concentration camp. Luckily, events went in a different direction. The man’s dog took a great liking to her, spurring him to ask if she would like a ride to the train station. She graciously accepted. On the train, she met
CAPITAL NEWSPAPERS - KEVIN LILLARD
a maid who offered her a job in an office, which she took. And as fate would have it, Laxova’s father would one day appear at the office, reuniting the couple. When the war ended in 1945, Laxova’s parents were still together, but they did not yet have their daughter back. Laxova’s mother did not want to wait any longer and went to the airport in hopes of flying to Britain to retrieve her. She spent three nights anxiously waiting at the airport while Laxova’s father kept Mr. Daniels in Britain updated. Eventually, the airport security had enough information on Laxova’s mother and allowed her to fly to Britain. She was the first citizen to take a plane out of Prague after World War II. Once in Britain, she retrieved Laxova and brought her home to Czechoslovakia. Back in Brno, Laxova continued her schooling. She received a PhD in Medical Genetics from Masaryk University in 1956. Her peace in her home country, however, was short lived. After marrying a veterinarian and having two children, her family was forced to leave Czechoslovakia
again in 1968 when the Soviets invaded. They lived in London, where Laxova worked at the Kennedy-Galton Centre for Medical and Community Genetics. In 1975, she was hired by the genetics department at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, and Laxova remains Professor Emerita of Genetics and Pediatrics at the Waisman Center in Madison today. Many survivors of the Holocaust refuse to speak about their experiences. It was a traumatic time, making it difficult to relive through storytelling. Laxova’s father even declined to speak more than a few sentences about his life during World War II during an interview he participated in after the war. However, Laxova readily shares her story to people all around the country. In an article in The Gazette, Laxova explains that she uses her story to empower others.3 Her parents and she survived because of help they received from others, and Laxova hopes her story can inspire people to help others as much as possible and appreciate all they have. Gowans, Alison. “Holocaust Survivor to Share Her Story in Cedar Rapids.” The Gazette. March 27, 2015. 3
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NIFTY SHADES OF BY SAMANTHA GEORGSON, CONTRIBUTING WRITER
GREY
Remember the days when going grey was a hair nightmare? Not anymore! In fact, grey hair is not something to hide. Rather, it is something to celebrate. Unusual hair colors are all the rage as of late, and silver and grey have become quite popular. This trend is particularly interesting because young women are embracing a hairstyle that otherwise happens naturally with age. Instead of patiently awaiting the seemingly graceful transformation that is “going grey,” women and girls are requesting silver and grey tones at their beauty salons.
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Of course, nothing can be considered a true trend until receiving a celebrity endorsement. Many famous faces, including Kylie Jenner and Rihanna, have played with grey hair and sported the new trend for brief
stints. Once the celebrities picked up this look, the trend did not take long to spread. In fact, it even earned its own hashtag, #grannyhair. By searching this tag on most social media, countless selfies of women of all ages appear with their grey and silver hairdos. Not only are young women actually paying to have their hair dyed grey, but perhaps the most rewarding piece of this particular trend is that older women are also embracing their natural grey and silver locks. Celebrities such as Diane Keaton and Meryl Streep have been photographed falling in line with the new fad, proudly wearing their age and embracing all of the graceful changes that come with growing older. For a long time, women have learned to fear the process of aging, being told that they are only as good as their looks. Although it can be argued that this hair trend still places a focus on women’s looks, it also has an air of rebellious feminism. Young women are erasing current beauty standards by reinventing the meaning of grey and silver hair, while older women embrace their age by rocking their natural locks. This may be a passing fad, but this trend makes a bigger, lasting statement. It encourages and invites women to feel beautiful, regardless of age or society’s beauty standard. This #grannyhair trend is good news for women everywhere. For men, the “salt and pepper” look is deemed “distinguished,” but it’s time to welcome the “silver feline” to the stage. Whether intended as a feminist statement or just a quirky new do, the grey hair trend has really taken the beauty world by storm.
The Age of the
INDEPENDENT WOMAN BY CLAUDIA PREVETE, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER ART BY HANNAH MCCRACKEN It’s 2016, and as Drake notably pointed out, what a time it is to be alive. Plagued by instances of tragedy and moments of victory for society overall, this year has been unmistakably eventful. While many sporadic moments made 2016 lively as ever, one facet that cannot be overlooked is the plight of independent women being more proudly woman than ever. Beyoncé released an album in April of this year encouraging every female to “tell him ‘boy bye’,” and here we are, in November, with quadruple the number of women of color in the Senate and Hillary Clinton as the first female presidential candidate to win her party’s nomination. Essentially, female badassery has been reached on every level of the spectrum, underscoring the collective theme that women in this age are at their peak, on their own terms. While viewing Beyoncé and Hillary as key players in the game of modern-day female liberation, it is interesting to note that both have extremely successful husbands, whom naysayers may accredit for their wives’ societal influence. That mindset is precisely why it is so crucial to look at, celebrate and continue the conversation about women and their individual successes. As a young woman in 2016, I think I speak for a lot of my peers when I say that marriage is not the dream anymore. The idea that women exist simply to wed and procreate does not inspire me and is not something I really find myself paying much mind to. Do I want to get married? While the idea has crossed my mind before, it does not occupy much space. I am nineteen, working toward a college degree, career and the fulfilment of my wildest dreams. For women in past generations, walking down the aisle in a pretty, white dress may have been the dream. In my generation, however, the dream looks like...well, whatever the hell you want it to. Personally, it means a diploma, maybe graduate school and landing the job I
have wanted since I was eleven. I have never stopped to think, plan or dream about the wedding I may or may not have one day; not because there is something wrong with marriage, but because it is not my most pressing issue or my only option. When in previous generations, it was a societal norm for women to get married at a young age and even more recently, for nineteen-year-olds to fantasize about their weddings. This shift in priorities for young women signifies the fact that female members of the millennial generation have redefined mainstream, and that being a woman is no longer synonymous with being a wife. Similarly, young millennial women have looked beyond the boundaries of their past archetypal roles as child-birthing machines. In fact, a study performed at the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania1 found that the amount of college students who planned on having children decreased dramatically between 1992 and 2012. While the survey included both men and women, it stands as an ode to the expansion of female’s positions in society. Feeling pressured to get pregnant, have children and be a mother, as though that is the only tangible option, limits the freedom, independence and control which women deserve to have over their own lives. That is not to say women cannot be mothers and be independent, rather, it is the suggestion that motherhood is the only option for females to take that’s problematic. As the women of the millennial generation become more focused on their own lives, careers and dreams, they find themselves on less of a trajectory towards motherhood- or at least motherhood as the end all be all. Do I want to have children? Again, this is a question that prior to this article, I never
sat down and thought much about. I know for sure that I want a great, stable job that allows me to support myself, but do I want to have kids? The lack of clarity I have to this answer (as well as the lack of desire to answer the question) underscores, again, the shift in females’ primary concerns when looking at their lives more holistically. The opportunity for women to be singularly badass has come with the progression of time and society. This is certainly nothing to be overlooked, despite the fact that Donald Trump and the likes of womenbashers have proclaimed that “putting a wife to work is a very dangerous thing.” Women in 2016 are so much more than a wife, a mother or placeholder. Rather, the age of female independence is in full swing, something that ought to be embraced and sung from the mountaintops (or, from the CEO’s office).
Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania, parenting.blogs.nytimes.com. 1
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SPIT TING IM AG E Like (grand)mother, like daughter—blurring the lines between past and present. SHILOAH COLEY, LIV SCHREIBER, ZASHARY TORRES AND BELLA YAO PHOTOGRAPHED BY MIA BOULUKOS ART DIRECTION BY ALIX DEBROUX CREATIVE DIRECTORS: KELSEY DAYKIN AND REILLY KOCH CREATIVE TEAM: MIA BOULUKOS, BROOKE KOMAS, EVA-DELILAH WIELAND AND GEORDON WOLLNER 28 | NOVEMBER 2016 MAKEUP BY ANA GENTHE
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HIP-HOP: A MOVEMENT IN REMIX BY MICHAEL LIM, CONTRIBUTING WRITER PRASHANT SINGH, REGINA STIEBER, MADELYN WALOWAY PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL LIM 36 | NOVEMBER 2016
Dancing has become a staple of modern day entertainment. Events such as the World of Dance, Red Bull BC One and, quite recently, America’s Best Dance Crew, depict modern-day hip-hop dancing at its finest. Individuals and groups alike create complex routines of intricate movement to compliment the beat while capturing the attention of the audience. The power of hip-hop dancers causes an adrenaline rush for viewers, yet there is more to hip-hop than just how the audience receives it. Modern hip-hop has evolved into a massive global movement, connecting dancers across continents. It has become a lifestyle for many and a
universal language that can break down barriers. In the late 1960s, hip-hop developed as a cultural movement in New York City African American communities. Since its beginning in the streets of the Bronx, “hip-hop has encompassed not just a musical genre but also a style of dress, dialect and language, way of looking at the world, and aesthetic that reflects the sensibilities of the youth born at the time.”1 The movement stood as not only a reflection of the culture climate, Alridge, D. and Stewart, J. “Introduction: Hip Hop in History: Past, Present, and Future.” The Journal of African American History 90, 2005. jstor.org.
which was overwhelmed by crime and chaos, but also a way to escape from it. Hip-hop was “an imaginative space in which [young people] could transcend their circumstances...judged only by their skills on the microphone or on the dancefloor.”2 Hip-hop was split into four main elements: DJing, graffiti art, emceeing and breakdancing. The music itself was based on beats that DJs created by looping portions of songs to emphasize a rhythmic percussive pattern known as the break or the getdown. This was accompanied by the
1
Neate, Patrick. “Poetry in Motion.” RSA Journal154, 2008. jstor.org. 2
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contemporary version of “rapping.� Out of its birth rose a new form of dance known as breaking. What the pioneer dancers lacked in experience they made up for with passion. Dancing in the streets, hip-hop music ushered in a new empowering form of dance. The popularity of breaking died down in the 1980s when the music slowed down from its original upbeat tempo. The music was deemed to be more suited to clubs or parties and a new style of hiphop dance emerged from the new beats: hip-hop freestyle. As the popularity of hip-hop music spread across the
country, many different styles of dance began to develop. Hybrid versions of the dance, such as locking and popping, emerged across the country as a result of the intermixing of new, inventive additions to the genre. Just as the music adapted to and evolved with modern time, so did the dance. Hip-hop freestyle in the 21st century is a combination of the styles that came before it and more. Today the hiphop dance scene has evolved from its inventive freestyling to a more choreographed setting. Its styles are slightly more tied to the expressive
fluidity of the body and the manipulation of its complementing music. Hip-hop dance layers simple actions to create a complex flurry of movement that is both complicated and captivating. It has grown from its informal yet exciting and inventive past to join the international dance community as a formal dance style that many engage in today. Despite its unassuming start in the alleys of the Bronx, hip-hop dance has joined the likes of the tango and the waltz as a proper form of dance. It effortlessly continues to evolve and adapt to its contemporary climate.
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TECH IS THE
NEW
CHIC BY NELL YU, CONTRIBUTING WRITER A runway stage can resemble a data center? One click can get you the oversized hoodie on a model that walked down the catwalk 10 seconds ago? Karl Lagerfeld and Tommy Hilfiger made these impossible tasks possible this season during Fashion Week. The two leading figures in the fashion industry not only linked technology with fashion—two remotely related fields—but also took runway shows to a new generation. Lagerfeld surprised us once again with his creativity. The creative director presented yet another memorable show by starting the Chanel Spring 2017 show with two models dressed up as twin robots in classic Chanel suits. Elements of technology permeated the whole show. In addition to the primary-colored cables and metallic data boxes used as a backdrop for the runway, digital messages were displayed on handbags thanks to the incorporation of LED lights. It was a high-tech fashionista’s paradise. The other tech-savvy star of the season was Tommy Hilfiger, introducing his collaboration with the supermodel Gigi Hadid. Gigi brought her own street style to Tommy’s preppy look, making the collection playful yet chic. The clothes themselves, however, weren’t the spotlight of this show. The “see now, buy now” concept stood out more. Guests could purchase the pieces worn on models right away by using their mobile devices. In addition to online shopping, there were pop-up stores around the runway show. Fashionistas no longer have to wait six months for their favorite item to launch.
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Out with the Old and
IN WITH THE NEW BY ASHLEY NG, FASHION EDITORIAL ASSISTANT The fashion industry tends to discriminate…a lot. It has received plenty of resentment from its audience over the years, particularly with regards to a lack of diversity on the runway. The majority of models who walk at New York, London, Milan and Paris during fashion week are white. Just to give you an idea of what the “majority” is, 74.6% of models for the Spring/Summer 2017 shows were white, according to Refinery29.1 Do note that this is a slight improvement from the previous 75.25% during the Autumn/Winter 2016 shows. (Casting agencies, please don’t flatter yourselves too much.) Just when you thought it couldn’t get worse, it seems that women of color aren’t the only ones being discriminated against. It may not be alarming, though I’m sure it never crossed your mind, that the fashion industry caters primarily to a younger population. This ranges from young teens
up to middle-aged women. Ascend any higher than that and it seems you’ll get booted from the exclusive fashion scene. You don’t have to go far to realize this, just take a look at any fashion ad campaign. It’s rare to see an older woman featured in an editorial, let alone on the cover of a magazine, unless you’re Iris Apfel that is. The same trend is observed at fashion week as well. The Fashion Spot reports only 11 “aged” models walked the runway at the Autumn/Winter 2016 shows, including Veronica Webb, 52, and Pat Cleveland, 66. But perhaps things may be taking a turn.2 During the Spring/Summer 2017 fashion week, we saw supermodel Gigi Hadid, 21, walk arm-in-arm with Lauren Hutton, 72, for the Bottega Veneta show. This marked a memorable moment that celebrated the success of many marvelous fashion icons across the generations. Cordelia Tai, “Report: The Spring 2017 Runways Were the Most Diverse in History — Sort Of,” The Fashion Spot. 2016. 2
Alexandra Ilyashov, “How Diverse Were the Spring Runways?” Refinery 29. 2016. 1
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“It’s rare to see an older woman featured in an editorial, let alone on the cover of a magazine, unless you’re Iris Apfel that is.”
The Life of Lipstick BY CASSIE HURWITZ, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER ART BY ALIX DEBROUX In the 21st century, makeup is found everywhere. Women and men alike wear it to enhance their natural features and to create temporary artwork through facial structures. With the constant evolution of products, the formula of lipstick today is much different from the formula of ten years ago. By walking through any shopping mall, drugstore or party, it is evident that makeup is a cultural norm. But where did this trend begin? The first evidence of makeup hails from ancient Egypt and focuses mainly on the application of coal to women’s eyelids in order to enhance their natural beauty. It was often thought to be a decoration for women, thus beginning a relation between feminine appearance and makeup. Throughout the next few generations, painting a woman’s face became a necessary step in feminine presentation. Developing from coal, women of the Roman Empire often applied chalk to their skin and rouge to their cheeks. It was believed that a lighter, paler skin tone was synonymous with wealth; therefore, many ladies adhered to this trend. The painted technique stayed popular throughout the European Middle Ages, but took a dip during the Victorian Era. The trends we know and love today began to really take off near the turn of the 20th century, with the invention of mascara. The creator, T.L. Williams, named the product after his sister, Mabel. This sentiment is now recognized in the
name of the popular drugstore brand, Maybelline. Throughout most of this century, makeup trends manifested due to well-known and well-loved actresses and models. Audrey Hepburn’s iconic cat-eye, Marilyn Monroe’s Hollywood red lips and Elizabeth Taylor’s bold brows all stole the scene and spurred many imitations of the styles. In addition to the proliferation of these movie stars, more and more makeup brands began to introduce themselves to the world. Today, many of the same brands that started at the turn of the century are still prosperous and sell newer adaptations of the products they began with. Lipstick is one product that has changed enormously from its beginnings. It is unclear who is credited for creating and selling the first metal lipstick tube; however, Guerlain, Elizabeth Arden, Chanel and Estee Lauder were some of the first brands to jump on the trend. A couple decades later, Max Factor created the first ever lip gloss, changing the game forever by introducing a new, innovative way to wear color on the lips. While lipstick was first used primarily to darken the appearance of ladies’ lips in film, red tones began to be popularized thanks to many actresses that developed personal styles and images. This created the “classic Hollywood” style, which has been an iconic trend ever since, but lost its place in the spotlight to the 90s matte brown lipstick obsession. Drew Barrymore, Gwen Stefani and Winona
Ryder were three of the many stars that made brown lips so trendy in the last decade of the 20th century. Thanks to Max Factor’s invention and many brands’ constant updating of lipstick formulas, today’s makeup world contains an incredible selection of colors, finishes and brands to choose from. Society has seen a resurgence of the popular 90s brown lip, with a focus on the matte aspect. Nearly every makeup brand has released a line of matte lipsticks, mostly due to the extreme success of the Kylie Lip Kits and liquid lipsticks in general. Fortunately, formulas have improved to the point where lipstick can be matte and long-lasting, but also still comfortable to wear. This is progress from the chalky, dry matte lipsticks of previous decades. Matte brown lipsticks may be having a moment right now, but beauty trends have a way of circulating over time, repopularizing themselves are they are rediscovered. It is hard to say where lipstick will turn to next, but it is safe to say that the continuation of comfortable lipstick can have a positive effect on both men and women’s levels of confidence. We have come a long way from the harmful formulas of early makeup, and in doing so have created a generation of happy, healthy and beautiful makeup lovers – inside and out. French, Christy. “The History of Makeup.” Medusa’s Makeup. “Lipstick Timeline.” Lipstick History. lipstickhistory.com.
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The Fashion Icon That Is Fran Fine BY CLARKE SMITH, FASHION WRITER DIRECTED & STYLED BY CLARKE SMITH & FRANSISCO VALEZQUEZ ANA GENTHE, MARIA PAREJA, AND ISHA SENGHORE PHOTOGRAPHED BY JINGJUN LIU
Often times, we express our love for vintage clothing, but fail to pay homage to the pioneers we have to thank for them. In 2016, our generation’s definition of vintage starts within the 90s. While most of us were too little to remember or were possibly still in our mothers’ wombs, things like consistent sitcoms seasons allowed us to watch and appreciate the era’s iconic fashion in their entirety. Television shows offered us more than a snapshot of the hottest trends of the moment, allowing us to experience months on end of the characters’ style transformations. One of the main characters that has been overlooked as far as wardrobe was Fran Fine from The Nanny. As she walked down the mansion steps in each episode, the audience awaited her purposefully overdone outfit. However, these iconic looks were mostly looked at as just a part of Fran’s persona, not a deliberate entity of its own. While we were constantly reminded of how overthe-top she loved being, never gracing our presence on the show in anything “basic” and never shying away from
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bold colors, the correct appreciation for her daring outfits is long overdue. Her ensembles were intentional, and although this didn’t happen often, the show’s costume designer, Brenda Cooper, made sure that Fran’s vivid outfits could do the talking for her, if need be. Rarely caught in pants, she was the queen of mini skirts, crop tops and snug turtle necks. Completing her look with teased hair, she was one of the most fashion forward, glamorous women we saw on TV during the 90s. The character that was Fran Fine became a fashion icon not only during that time period, but beyond, as her style continues to be appreciated in 2016. In fact, there’s an entire Instagram account (@whatfranwore) complete with her day-to-day looks throughout the show, accompanied ny the details of each look. If Fran’s signature looks are still calling your name in this era, here is some inspiration to get started. Don’t ever let anyone tell you miniskirts aren’t a thing anymore. According to Fran Fine, they will always be a thing.
FUR CROP TOP | MISSGUIDED DENIM MINI SKIRT | URBAN OUTFITTERS TURTLENECK (RIGHT) | H&M MINI SKIRT | AMERICAN APPAREL FUR JACKET | URBAN OUTFITTERS SUNGLASSES | ASOS
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“Rarely caught in pants, she was the queen of mini skirts, crop tops and snug turtle necks. Completing her look with teased hair, she was one of the most fashion forward, glamorous women we saw on TV during the 90s.� NOVEMBER 2016 | 47
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SOCIAL MEDIA AS THE
CONTEMPORARY CANVAS BY CAITLIN GRONSKI, ARTS WRITER
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There’s perhaps never been a better time to be the artist whose working studio doubles as his mom’s basement. Why? Because now he can create a piece of art and garner interest for it on Instagram while the paint’s still drying. Long gone are the hierarchal days in which artists were limited to winning over stuffy, highbrow gallery owners and curators. Today, more than half of millennials ages 18 to 24 find artwork and artists through social media.1 In addition, an increasing number of millennials purchase art online. The popularity of online auction sites like Artsy has surged in recent years. However, that’s not to say that museum attendance is on the decline. 40 percent of Americans still regularly visit museums, but they don’t necessarily find art work they’re interested in buying at them. 2 The digital realm offers new opportunities to interact with the art world, and millennials have taken notice. Instead of thinking of art as an individual viewing experience, millennials want to share experiences in the art world together. They prefer Facebook groups in which they can update one another on artists and share new pieces they’ve discovered. Millennials are also much more likely than any other generation to support lesser-known artists through crowdfunding sites.3 Not only do Davies, Simon. “Why Art Galleries Need to Embrace Social Media to Survive.” Socialnomics. 2016. 2 Klara, Robert. “Millennials are Discovering Art by Ditching Museums for Instagram and Pinterest.” AdWeek.com. 2016.
millennials use the internet as a forum to show their support for artists, but they also like to scope out artists’ prices and sales online before making a purchase. 4 This shift in art discovery from galleries and museums to the digital realm has had a major impact on artists and their work. Social media offers ease of communication between artists, potential buyers and supporters. As a result, artists become more accessible and are able to reach a wider audience.5 Social media platforms allow the underground street artist to connect with the art curator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The digital world breaks down barriers and deems status irrelevant, creating a richer, more authentic art environment. Take animist Paul Heard, for example. In the middle of a freelance project, Heard took to Twitter to ask his followers if any of them would offer him a hard drive in exchange for a painting of his. With zero replies, he took an even bigger shot in the dark and tweeted at British celebrity and techie Stephen Fry. To Heard’s amazement, Fry replied that he would be happy to participate in the exchange. Through the use of Twitter, an underground artist instantaneously connected with a highprofile actor who also happens to have 12.2 million followers.6 Not a bad day in the life of a struggling artist.
The trend of closing the gap between the highbrow art world and the DIY artists also goes hand in hand with a shift in attitudes toward art. Millennials don’t value reputation and prominence among artists the way past generations did. They’re more likely to respond to artwork on the basis of how it makes them feel.7 However, not all of these developments in the discovery of art have been favorable. There’s a viable concern that artistic ingenuity will lessen as artists create artwork that will look good on Instagram instead of in an exhibition. Despite the fact that millennials care less about status, they’re still very much infatuated with “likes.”8 It will be interesting to watch as artists adapt to a digital world in which they must go the extra step to create an online persona reflective of their personality and style. It’s no longer only about the production of art; the artist is taking center stage as well. All in all, digital and social media have transformed our interactions with art. Technology ultimately allows artists to gain autonomy and form relationships beyond their immediate professional and social circles. In an art world once dominated by the elite, it is refreshing to see art begin to color beyond its formerly stiff borders.
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Mohan, Isvari. “The Art of Marketing to Millennials.” The Boston Globe. 2016. 4 Ibid. 5 Drell, Lauren. “Artists and Digital: Why Social Media Is the New Gallery.” Mashable. 2012. 6 Ibid. 3
Weinswig, Deborah. “Art Market Cooling, But Online Sales Booming.” Forbes. 2016. 8 Miranda, Carolina A. “Social Media Have Become a Vital Tool for Artists- But Are They Good for Art?” Los Angeles Times. 2016. 7
TIPPING T HE SCAL E S:
WOMEN IN ART BY AMELIA FAIST, ARTS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Today, 60 percent of all art students in the United States are women, but the art field has a long history of favoring men over women. In the 12th century, women in the embroidery industry earned 83 percent less than men doing the same work, and in 1723, Margareta Haverman, a Dutch painter, was expelled from an art academy for submitting a painting “too good to have been painted by a woman.”1 While 76 percent of nudes in the Metropolitan Museum of Art are of women, they were banned from
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studying nude models from the 16th to the 19th century.2 The evidence is striking but seldom discussed outside the realms of the art community. A modern case of gender discrimination is seen in the interpretation of Georgia O’Keefe’s legendary flower
paintings. While she herself denied the representation, male historians still try to identify vaginas within her work. O’Keefe modeled nude for Alfred Steiglitz’s photo collection in 1921, clearly not shy about her womanhood or even the public show of nudity, but analysts continue to try to draw out vaginal images that do not exist.3 Leading up to the 1900s and throughout the majority of the century, men depicting blatant nudity did not receive the same level of unwanted scrutiny. Even after becoming a household name, O’Keefe’s artwork is worth nowhere near that of her male peers. While her most valuable piece rings in at $11.9 million--more than three times the previous record for a female artist’s work-- her paintings are still valued less than her male contemporaries of arguably equal talent levels. In the 1960s and 70s, females began to lay claim to their womanhood in art. They purposefully depicted nudity to take back the image of the female body, pushing past depicting the vagina as simply an art subject to use it as a political symbol. The Guerilla Girls were a major part of this revolution, fighting for equal representation of women in the creative world through their humorous but cutting advocacy. Most famous was their 1968 “Report Card” (see top right image) which shamed iconic museums, like Pace and Washburn, for their lack of equal representation.
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While art’s focus has since shifted away from the sole issue of nudity, the women’s advocacy movement is still going strong today. Women are using their voices not only in the graphic arts, but in music and production as well. In L.A. and New York, women represent 32.3 percent of all artists, and an estimated 51 percent of the industry as a whole.4 Pop culture is becoming gender-equalized as stars like Beyoncé and Solange spread messages of girl power by using all-female dance troupes, including women in their production teams and promoting female independence and competency through their lyrics. Women like Paula Scher are sweeping the field, not only through art but also education in New York, and by working in graphic design with major brands like Tiffany & Co. and the New York City Ballet. Kelli Anderson has made a name for herself in typography, doing work previously unrecognized by males in the field. Women are on the rise in the art world with a notable level of determination. As the gender gap finally begins to close in the art world, women are prepared to make up for ten centuries worth of censorship and limitations imposed on their artistry. Maura Rielly, Taking the Measure of Sexism: Facts, Figures, and Fixes. Art News. 2015. 4
nmwa.org 2 Get the Facts, National Museum of Women in the Arts, 2007. 1
Howard Halle, A brief history of the vagina in art, Timeout Los Angeles, 2016. 3
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