the mini: craft
MODA the mini JENNIFER ANDERSON Editor-in-Chief
Deputy Editor Emma Leuman Art Director Alexandra Folino Photography Director Andrew Salewski Creative Directors Kelsey Daykin and Alexa Carlson Financial Director Reilly Koch Web Master Jameson Zaballos Fashion Editor Courtney Pelot Lifestyle Editor Meg Rotter Culture Editor Haley Nippert Arts Editor Margaret Duffey Fashion Editorial Assistant Maya Campbell Lifestyle Editorial Assistant Jessica Hamilton Staff Writers Darby Hoffman, Luke Vogel, Alexa Carlson, Linh Nguyen, Maya Campbell, Sydney Weng, Ashley Mackens Contributing Writers James DePolis, Alexandra Folino Andrew Salewski, Kelsey Simonson, Madalyn Manzeck Photographers Katie Cooney, Alexandra Folino, Andrew Salewski, Cameron Smith Models Madison Bevan, Isabel Esch, Daria Modrzanska, Kiki Tao, Francisco Velazquez Additional Credit to Dan Kershner
on the COVER:
Kiki Tao and Madison Bevan photographed by Cameron Smith for the “Threads Redefined� Editorial (pg. 26) Designs by Daisy Lopez and Em Kinville 2 | November 2015
Jen’s Insta: @j3n_and3rson
letter from the editor:
T
he unfortunate truth is that I didn’t know Madison, Wisconsin at all before I moved here. When looking at potential colleges, my mother suggested UWMadison. I politely laughed and said “Mom, I’m not going to live on a farm with a bunch of cheese heads.” Although I do admit that my intake of cheese has only risen since moving to Madison for my freshman year of college, I was greatly mistaken about the aesthetic of this city. Madison is a city full of life and art amidst a rather rural state. You see,
Madison is a craft in and of itself. Anywhere you look, on campus and off, there are people putting their creativity to good use. This city is full of proud individuals who are painters, writers, designers, musicians, scientists and engineers. We often forget that our city is one that radiates intelligence and ingenuity.
“Zentangling” can free us from our stressors.
Inside this issue, we carefully curated content reflective of the environment around us in Madison. We were curious to look deeper at how craft beverages are formed, how movies from our childhood recreate history as we know it and how artistic movements such as
So I dare you: go out and look for the craft around you. Because there is more than meets the eye.
Since moving to Madison, my creativity and my desire to learn has only grown. I believe that I am a craftsman of makeup, latte art, and writing. Moreover, I believe in the artisanal craft of producing magazines.
Cheers mes amies,
November 2015 | 3
RECLAIMING MY FEMININITY:
WHY A “LADY” STILL BE A BAD By Darby Hoffman, Lifestyle Writer Photos by Darby Hoffman
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Why should I feel bad that pink is my favorite color? a young feminist, I’ve felt pressure to A sreject feminine culture in order to claim
myself as a part of the movement. Being “girly” has come at the price of appearing weak or restricted by patriarchal limitations within our society. Too often, women are only perceived as “successful” upon adapting mainstream behaviors commonly performed and accepted by men. However, I’ve come to see that asserting my femininity is an empowering force in itself. I do not see myself as less powerful simply because I enjoy watching makeup tutorials and spending too much money on trendy clothing. I have made the decision to reclaim my feminine culture. I have personally declared that this persona is one which I enjoy portraying, and one that accurately depicts my personality. It is not determined by my culture’s perceptions of what a woman “should” be, as many may assume. I do understand why some feminists may question my lack of rebellion against industries that attempt to regulate feminine expression, like fashion and beauty companies. In order to be seen as equals by men and have their voices listened to, many women have to take up male-
CAN DASS
coded behaviors and reject femininity. By continually associating myself with feminine activities, I diverge from the idea that only male-coded behavior has the ability to show women as powerful beings. The fashion and beauty industries used to have the power to define femininity, yet now I am able to recreate the meaning and value I choose to give them. Redefining the industries as something I choose to use, rather than something I need, is what empowers me to label myself as “girly.” I recognize the dangers of falling into dependence on my beauty regime or the clothing in my closet, and I consciously fight this battle every day. I still witness the unrealistic standards expected of women, whether it be in an airbrushed magazine ad or in exchanges where women are openly pitted against each other to see who best adheres to certain beauty standards. While I do enjoy the realms of fashion and beauty, there remains a constant threat to my confidence as I choose to remain in them. This is why I continue to teach myself how to feel beautiful without makeup, while not depriving myself of the joy I receive from creating new looks. I allow myself to enjoy activities such as video games and action movies, while, conversely, spending my time
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reading romance novels and planning my perfect wedding on Pinterest. I do all these things and more, never allowing the limitations of what others think I should or should not enjoy dictate my happiness.
“I’VE COME TO SEE THAT ASSERTING MY FEMININITY IS AN EMPOWERING FORCE IN ITSELF... BY CONTINUALLY ASSOCIATING MYSELF WITH FEMININE ACTIVITIES, I DIVERGE FROM THE IDEA THAT ONLY MALE-CODED BEHAVIOR HAS THE ABILITY TO SHOW WOMEN AS POWERFUL BEINGS. ”
Therefore, I ask that readers always think critically about their motivations. Do not alter your persona with the idea that you are doing it for someone else. Make choices every day based on what is going to make you the happiest and the strongest, and do not settle for anything less. Being feminine does not make you weak, just as being more masculine does not exclude you from the female experience. True strength is not found in repressing your passions and interests to please others, but in controlling your life by choosing meaning, despite society’s “shoulds” and woulds.”
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credit: calia.com
CLOTHING THAT INSPIRES
credit: @carrieunderwood instagram
CALIA: A New Line from Carrie Underwood Living in the spotlight undoubtedly makes a person more fashionable. Just look at the evolution of Kelly Osbournethe girl went from being a hodgepodge mess to one of the best dressed women in Hollywood. Because they have access to the best designers in the biz, celebrities begin to dress better and become inspired by the art of clothing design all around them. Immersed in the world of fashion, many of our favorite celebs decide to embark on entrepreneurial endeavours and craft their own clothing lines.
now be found on the fashion scene. This country girl has transformed into a business woman and fashionista with the blink of an eye. A lifestyle as busy as Underwood’s means time is always of the essence. Finding moments to hit the gym is hard, but necessary. Underwood needs comfortable, functional clothing that is also stylish to transition her from each daily activity to the next without missing a beat. Not finding exactly what she was looking for in stores, Underwood decided to try her hand at clothing design.
The lengthy list of celebrities who have acted on their passion for fashion includes Jennifer Lopez, Victoria Beckham, Mary Kate and Ashley Olson, Lauren Conrad, Kanye West, Pharrell Williams and many more. Perhaps the most successful in her undertaking has been Jessica Simpson. Simpson proves to be a smart and savvy business woman in the fashion industry. Her brand has become remarkably reputable as she offers a full breadth of clothing and accessories. One area she fails to cover; however, is activewear. But have no fear; another blonde beauty just launched her line. This particular line is bound to get us moving, if not to the gym then at least to the store to buy the hot new items.
The initial inspiration for Underwood’s line came from the motto “Stay the Path.” The catchy phrase refers to the unique and individual journey that every woman is on. For Underwood, a vital part of her path is fitness. She explains in a brand video that exercise is the one thing she does each day just for her. In doing so, she becomes better in all aspects of her life, more willing and able to “Stay the Path.” In the most genuine of ways, Underwood wanted to share what keeps her positively moving forward and encourage others to do the same.
Building on her extremely successful music empire, Carrie Underwood can
Teaming up with Dick’s Sporting Goods, Underwood now has her very own women’s clothing line that is made for anyone and everyone. CALIA, named after the strong and beautiful Calla lily, withstands the test of a rigorous workout,
By Ashley Mackens, Fashion Writer a trip to the grocery store and even lunch with the girls.Underwood says in a brand video, “CALIA is a lifestyle brand. It’s not all about the workout, or it’s not all about the cute little fluffy stuff. It’s the kind of thing that you can wear all day.” So what does CALIA have that competitors lack? Incredibly soft knit sweaters, scarves and hats. A captivating color palette with soft shades of pink, blue and gray (unlike the overdone neon that most active wear brands have been putting out for years) can be found in the line. And don’t forget the intricate patterns that are tastefully placed to best flatter your figure. Sounds perfect, right? Carrie Underwood set out to improve her own wardrobe, and in turn is improving the wardrobes of women everywhere. She saw a need for fashionable, transitional clothing and fulfilled it, all the while motivating herself and others to strengthen their bodies, reach goals, and ultimately achieve more. Underwood uses her life as inspiration to craft her brand, and does so splendidly. She takes a caring approach in her designs and brand image, always keeping the customer in mind. When women like Underwood are able to exercise their true passions, the results are truly amazing, and CALIA is proof. November 2015 | 7
KENNY HOOPLA IS A VILLAGE VANGUARD Written by Luke Vogel, Mens Writer Photography by Kenny Hoopla If you were asked to envision the life and times of the typical 18 or 19-year-old photographer, you could probably conjure up a variety of images. Maybe you know of a kid that is content with candidly shooting his or her friends, or one that brings the DSLR to festival shows to get behind a more considered, craftworthy lens. Surely, you know of an art kid or two that’s making interesting moves on Instagram and Tumblr. The truth of the matter is that we all participate in the photographic medium somewhere on a spectrum between Instagram flexer and professional studio photographer. The question that remains for our digital generation is what separates a visionary shutterbug from the masses? I recently sat down with a 19 year old photographer. Meet
Kenneth La’ron Beasley, who is known widely by his pseudonym Kenny Hoopla. For the last two years, this Oshkosh native and current Madison resident has been networking and circulating heavily in Milwaukee, Madison and on the internet. He is a force on Tumblr and has racked up 20,000+ Twitter followers. Now seems like his time to make real moves. I first saw Kenny at a WebsterX show in Milwaukee this winter. I could tell that he was part of Webster’s squad, New Age Narcissism. But honestly, I couldn’t figure out what his role was. He spent a good part of the show whipping balls into the crowd and moshing like an absolute madman, as well as turning up with Webster and the whole gang on stage when “Desperate Youth” played. Was he a hype man or a lucky plus one? It wasn’t until I
saw him pull out his camera and make his way around the stage when I realized his purpose. Checking up on his Facebook the day after the show, I realized how good his photography was. Kenny became a part of the scene in a big way on stage and that energy showed through his work. There continues to be a catalytic dynamic between Kenny and New Age Narcissism. Kenny isn’t just capturing the movement in Milwaukee, he’s feeding into it. Speaking on his photos, he said, “It comes off natural, it comes off very natural, and that’s why we [NAN] are together.” Having such a raw genuineness creates an atmosphere, according to Kenny, that cannot create bad art. “It always comes out as it should. Even if it’s like, ‘oh, I don’t like the way that looks,’ it’s like, that’s how it was meant to be, because it’s honest.” Having such a good gig in Milwaukee, it came to me as a surprise to hear that Kenny was moving to Madison. When I asked him why he made the move, the fact that he has a strong vision became clear. Things changed for Kenny when he met Madison-based rapper and University of Wisconsin student, Daniel Kaplan. Many know Caplan as Lord of the Fly. He remembers when he “met Daniel at Freakfest...Me and Daniel just clicked and stuff. We were talking out here and I told him my mission and he explained that Madison would be the place for me.” Once again, Kenny remains close to those who he vibes with. He even admits that it’s his friends that he loves shooting the most. “I love shooting culture. My friends’ culture specifically, when they’re in their natural habitat. I love that so much- lifestyle photos.” It’s this absolute zeal for street culture that distinguishes Kenny Hoopla. More than anything, it’s honest, raw emotion that he captures. Though he tends to stick around those in the hip-hop and street culture, he gives a big nod to the emotional, grimy nature of heavy metal and punk culture as well. “I really want to shoot a metal punk show. I’ve always wanted to. I still haven’t been to one, I just really love mosh pits, and I love the emotion. More of the fact that it’s easier to shoot them because they have so much more emotion in their face, just the fact that it’s so real, like it’s just off top.”
Now that he’s established in the Madison scene, Kenny has nothing short of monumental plans. “Right now, Kenny Hoopla is just...nothing...and one day Kenny Hoopla will be everything. The world needs him to be.” For a “I WANT TO SAVE teenager, this statement is jolting, maybe even THE WORLD AND DIE presumptuous. But A LEGEND THROUGH Kenny’s statements can’t ART, I WANT TO be viewed like those of any other young creative. CONQUER ART.” Despite his age, he is a man with an absolute drive, and his mission is clear. Kenny explains that pursuit as such: “It’s basically a mission where I want to save the world and die a legend through art, I want to conquer art.” Kenny said, “Eventually before [I] die, I wanna retire with a magazine and a record label.” He seems dead set on achieving a true renaissance man status. It’s this whole “squad mentality” that drives Kenny, and a lot of that has to do with bringing up the youth. “Bringing others up, the kids that are like me, that I can see, that get the vision, and helping them [is important]. That’s the same way Sam [WebsterX] is helping me. He saw it in me. We gotta keep cycling that and helping the world,” he said. He knows that the youth have a vision, and because of his own experiences, he knows that older creatives must guide them in developing and elaborating on this vision. Kenny sees the youth as the only way to preserve art; it’s the only way for his mission to be successful. “It starts with the youth,” he said. With a vision so clear, it’s obvious that Kenny is not like the multitudes: he doesn’t think so either. When I asked him where he’ll be in ten years, he already knew the answer: “Studio in Portland, with all my homies: eating cinnamon toast crunch, hella magazines (and) rainy days.”
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Brocade shorts – Ecote Blouse – Lavand Gold necklace – Forever 21 Wedges – Steve Madden
CAN YOU PLEASE SPELL GABBANA? By Alexa Carlson, Fashion Writer Daria Modrzanska photographed by Katie Cooney
Italia is love, according to the opening look at Dolce & Gabbana’s spring 2016 runway show. The famous Italian fashion house is made up of the designer duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana who both share their love for Italy season after season. Italy is known for its distinct style and is home to many iconic design houses, including D&G. What makes D&G unique,however, is that their clothing doesn’t just showcase Italian taste. Each collection tells a story about a specific facet of Italian culture. D&G have crafted their legacy through decadent details and intricate stories told by their collections.
Sicilian kick continued into 2013 with beachy umbrella stripes and raffia basket woven corsets in the spring and a collection of looks inspired by cathedral mosaics with breathtaking prints and beading in the fall.
After two strong years of Sicilian inspiration, some critics questioned whether the duo was becoming too predictable. Unwavered, Domenico and Stefano continued to tell the story of their dear Sicily in 2014, paying homage to Greek architecture. This architecture was present everywhere from silks printed with ancient ruins to kitschy shoes with Greek columns for heels Starting with their spring 2012 show, Domenico and for their spring show. In the fall, the Italian designers Stefano began to draw inspiration from their home on the enchanted their audiences with looks inspired by Sicilian island of Sicily. The show was complete with eggplant, fairy tales. tomato and pepper prints, earrings made of farfalle pasta and ornate jewel embellishments reminiscent of festival By spring 2015, the designer duo had told plenty of lights. To no surprise, the show was an absolute hit. The stories about beautiful Sicily and they briefly moved on following season, D&G took a different spin on Sicily, this to a neighboring country: Spain. Roses, red coloring and time focusing on religious traditions, featuring plenty of religious details made the foreign inspiration feel right black lace, rose embroidery and prints of cherubs. The at home with the designers’ usual repertoire. The next
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season brought D&G back to Italy, this time focusing on one of Italy’s most important values—family—most importantly the Mamma. Finally, at their latest show, they gave some love to all of Italy by showcasing what the country looks like through the lenses of tourists. Dresses turned into ornate postcards filled with depictions of the country’s most famous monuments and symbols. When you see a D&G piece, there is no question about whose design it is. The lace, the bustiers, the bloomers, extravagant embellishments and decadent Italian details -it’s distinctly Dolce. Although the designers have received occasional critiques about their apparent predictability, they sure haven’t let it get to them and for good reason. As designers, they’ve hit that sweet spot (punto dolce if you will) where their looks are unmistakable and consistent, but keep the fashion world on the edge of their seats waiting to see what aspect of Italy they’re going to play up next. Everything the designers create, they craft with purpose. Just look at the handmade crayon drawings of Domenico’s nieces and nephews that were screen-printed onto silk gowns for the fall 2015 show, their intricate details aren’t just for show; they’re for love. Even though each show focuses on a distinctly different theme of Italian culture, there are some pieces that show up time and time again on the Dolce runway. The most obvious, timeless and important standby of D&G are black lace bloomers and a bustier worn under a black lace slip:sexy, classic and beautiful—everything Dolce & Gabbana stands for. Aside from the go-to slip, dresses come in three main shapes; sexy, skintight midi dresses, fit and flare frocks begging to be danced in and playful trapeze mini dresses. Headbands are worn like crowns in the Dolce world, and simple or minimal beading isn’t in their vocabulary. Their
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White lace dress – H&M Gold earrings and headband – Francesca’s Collection November 2015 | 13
switch photo?
beauty looks are always of a variation of perfectly winged eyeliner, the red lip of the moment and gracefully tousled hair pulled into a sophisticated low bun. As for heels and sunglasses, the bigger, more embellished and colorful the better; practicality isn’t a concern. Who is the Dolce girl? She is passionate, confident and she fiercely loves life.. She might not always be Italian by blood, but always by heart. Ciao Bella!
IN THE
SPIRITS Contributing Writer Alexandra Folino and Lifestyle Writer Linh Nguyen examine the craftmanship and artistry of winemaking and beer brewing. Photographed by Alexandra Folino
UNCORKED FORGET YOU, FRANZIA. By Alexandra Folino, Contributing Writer
With seemingly endless options, making a decision on wine can be overwhelming, and you may resort to grabbing the bottle with the most eye-catching label. Bottles upon bottles line the liquor store shelf: “What’s the difference between a Moscato and Sauvignon Blanc if they are both white anyways?” You brush it off. Investing some time in understanding wine, appreciating its production and being in “the know” not only leaves you feeling like a connoisseur of the craft, but it also makes you feel truly pleased with how it complements your meal, all while getting your daily serving of fruit. Yes, that means forget the Franzia, enough already with the Barefoot and for the love of the Tuscan gods, pu-lease say sayonara to slapping the bag. Sit down, dine and indulge in a glass of some fine wine for the true craft that it is.
FROM VINE TO VINO Being raised in an Italian family with a father who enjoys making wine himself, I have heard the question one too many times: “wait, does he – like – step on the grapes himself ?” friends stutter, assuming age-old techniques apply to the present. The Cab Sav you’re sipping with that delectable medium rare steak isn’t just a result of a winemaker’s walk in the park. On your typical vineyard, grapes are cut down by either man or machine with the stems still intact. Soon, they go through a sorting process, often done by hand, to rid the batch of any raisin or rotten grapes (can someone get an applause for that loving care?!). Then, the grapes’ stems are removed, usually by a machine. However, this is the moment when even more winemaker finesse comes in. From here, the process of making white wine varies from red ever so slightly, making a world of difference. Winemakers must make a careful play so you can indulge in that crisp Pinot Grigio. White wine is made by pressing the grapes to extract the juice, leaving behind the skins entirely. On the other hand, when making red wine, a more carefree attitude will suffice. The grapes used for red wine are crushed as well, but everything, including the juice, grape skins, the pulp and even the seeds get thrown into the vat in preparation for fermentation. In fact, this is the reason why red wine, in moderation, is heart healthy. Because it is fermented with the skins still present, it has higher levels of tannins and antioxidants. These antioxidants may help prevent heart disease by increasing what is known as the “good” cholesterol (high-density lipoprotein or HDL) in your body and protect against artery damage.1
A winemaker proudly holds his carefully crafted Certified Toscano Classico wine made with Sangiovese Wine in a Tuscan village in outside of Florence, Italy (Photo by Folino).
ASPETTA: A WAITING GAME
Like any typical fermentation process, yeast is added to the vats of wine, and the sugar begins to turn into alcohol. Monitoring the fermentation process is critical because the temperature and length of time can alter the final result. For reds, the fermentation process introduces oxygen and, after fermentation is complete, the wine is pressed to remove all the unnecessary particles and make it smooth. But hold on; it’s not quite time to indulge yet. Both reds and whites require some aging, a component crucial to their flavor. Traditionally, reds require anything from 18-24 months of aging prior to bottling, whereas whites are typically aged for less. The longer the wine is aged, the more robust the flavors. Flavors are then introduced during the aging process. This is the time when winemakers are able to infuse oak flavor into your bold Chianti red, or add notes of nut and fruit into your Chardonnay. After the wine is aged to perfection, the winemaker bottles it up, labels, packages and distributes it. Not before too long, it ends up in your hands. The next time you’re preparing to having a friend over for a pasta night or you’re just wandering through the wine section at the liquor store, I urge you to do a little research. Be in “the know.” Enjoy wine your way, but don’t forget about the process, individual and thought behind it. *Cue “Everyday” by A$AP Rocky*, indulge and enjoy. 1. “Red wine and resveratrol: Good for your heart?” mayoclinic.org
BRAVO TO BEER WHY WHY DRINK KEYSTONE WHEN YOU CAN SAVOR SOME CRAFT BEER? By Linh Nguyen, Lifestyle Writer Let me tell you one thing I wholeheartedly believe in: anyone can and should be able to enjoy beer just as much as wine or a cocktail and still be seen as ‘classy’. Since when has beer been considered cheap? Do you know how much work is put into the beer crafting process? I’m here to hopefully change your perspective of beer and its intricate craft. Disclaimer: I’m no expert, just a beer enthusiast. For the sake of both beer lovers and clueless drinkers, I have broken down the sophisticated brewing process into five steps: • Malting: transforming the barley into malt. Often referred to as “the heart of beer”, malt is the basic ingredient used when making beer. • Brewing: processing the malt. The final
product is called wort, a sweet liquid extracted during the mashing process. • Fermenting: the wort is cooled and aerated before adding the yeast. The beer is then fermented for several days. • Tasting: brewers taste the beer to ensure it has met the flavor standard. Beers are then sent to a panel of experts to be tasted and judged. • Packaging: let’s be honest, we tend to pick the best-looking beer (if we don’t know the brand), so of course they’ll place a big importance on packaging. Also, who doesn’t like environmentally friendly alcohol packages? Now that we’re clear about the complexity of beer crafting and dedication of breweries, I hope you will begin to give beer more credit and recognize
it as an art. However, I want to go beyond just the informative explanation of beer crafting. Here are some suggestions for drinking beer that will leave you savoring every drop: • Try craft beer. Be it German, Czech, Belgian or Japanese, if you haven’t had anything other than the ridiculously cheap and mass produced ‘beer water’, you’re missing out. Any craft beer would taste much better than your convenient store beers and actually contain health benefits, such as fiber, vitamin B, antioxidants and silicon. • Reduce binge drinking. You may find this a
funny comparison, but beers are to be sipped (maybe in larger gulps) and enjoyed just like wine. Pace yourself and pay attention to the taste left on your tongue after drinking each time. Each beer has a distinct taste if you’re aware of it. • Tilt your glass at a 45° angle when pouring beer to avoid a large amount of foam on top. Trust me, this trick will make the first sip taste a hundred times better. With all this being said, don’t forget to drink wisely and responsibly.
“Anyone can drink beer, but it takes intelligence to enjoy beer.” -Stephen Beaumont, Beer & Spirits Expert Creative Commons Image
E ZIN GA E MA H G T IN KIN MA A CLOSER LOOK AT HOW A MAGAZINE IS CRAFTED THROUGH THE LENS OF MODA’S PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR By Andrew Salewski, Photography Director Photographed by Andrew Salewski
A picture is worth a thousand words: photographers and models alike go to great lengths in order to get the elusive perfect shot. Photographers not only provide the visual media for publication, but often use the tools at their disposal to create powerful, emotive visuals; simple or intricate, every picture represents a large collective effort on the parts of writers, directors, editors, photographers and models.
Group collectives rein supreme: in the world of publications, group work is of the utmost importance. From brainstorming to editing, to layout and design, the group collective and organizational structure of publications entails many chains-of-command. From conceptualization to writing, to editing, organizing shoots and giving creative direction, to the final steps of publication and promotion, organization and order play a key role in publications running smoothly.
Words are the door to every other world: writers try, and try again, in order to find those perfect words to convey their stories. Whether it’s a music review, fashion guide, or free form prose, writers choose every word with careful cause.
No great idea is born independently: brainstorming with editors and staff, publications form, develop, and conceptualize ideas through this creative and collective process. Here, writers, photographers, and editors pool their collective thoughts in order to constantly push the boundaries of creativity and new thought. Creative design makes or breaks: the aesthetic direction of publications are important in defining their creative direction. Layout and creative design involves everything from the physical layout of pages in print and online publications, to font choice and colour schemes. This is, again, typically a group effort, drawing on similar and contrasting ideas to create the most original and fresh ideas for the publication.
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By Maya Campbell, Culture Writer
DISNEY FILM’S LEGACY OF RE-CRAFTING HISTORY: DUMPING (^some of) THE CLASSICS By Maya Campbell, Culture Writer As the first films many children see, the impact of Disney movies on early conceptualizations of culture and history is astronomical. Disney movies undoubtedly serve as markers of childhood across the world, and as young adults, they still enrapture us. The fond memories of Simba’s triumph, the captivating love story of Pocahontas and John Smith, and the unforgettable magical experience at the center of Aladdin still have adults and young adults alike flocking to theaters. More often than not, it has been discovered that Disney films, by way of simplifying characters and cultures, have created problematic representations of the world we live in. We have only recently begun to call Disney out for many of its problematic characters and themes, however in the shadow of childhood nostalgia for these movies, they play on. With its powerful legacy, we have to wonder what exactly Disney has taught us, what it has laid the foundation for, and what it continues to reinforce. 24 | November 2015
What is perhaps one of the most worrisome elements of Disney’s immense influence is the ways in which it frames particular cultures and the telling, or retelling, of history. Pocahontas, which made its debut in 1995, tells the story of early colonial interactions between European settlers and Native Americans. Disney’s portrayal of Europeans in the film as bad apple characters and the Powhatan tribe as innocent earned them praise for advocating for racial harmony through the film’s plot. However, compared to the historical reports of the real “Pocahontas,” the movie glosses over important details in exchange for personified animals and a love story. By depicting Pocahontas during her first contact with colonists as much older than her reported age of 10 or 11, filmmakers made room for a love story between the Powhatan woman and European settler, John Smith. The film not only retells a story falsely, but it also erases an important element of America’s past and arguably, present. Positing that it is one
greedy governor in search of gold who is to be blamed for the mistreatment of the indigenous American tribe, the story is no longer about the destructiveness of colonialism as a greater, governmentsanctioned institution. We lose sight of the fact that the intense drama was not about whether or not John Smith would be accepted by his lover’s tribe, but the fact that millions of people were being sentenced to death, kicked off their land, and robbed of their ability to move freely. John Smith himself, while romanticized in the film, actually played a very large part in this, and portraying him as a hero blatantly ignores his deplorable treatment of real Native Americans. Set alongside a plethora of cultural artifacts like misleading textbooks and early films that villainize Native Americans, we create a cultural tale that avoids any discussion of mistreatment and genocide. This phenomenon of doctoring facts for entertainment is especially apparent in the treatment of Chinese culture in
Mulan (1998). The original 2000 year-old of civility (read: that of white, Anglo- and history. The 2016 remake of The legend tells the story of Hua Mulan, who Saxons) and 2. Colonized and enslaved Jungle Book doesn’t appear to have the disguises herself as a man to ensure that peoples seek to be civilized by western same racial undertones as the original her father won’t be conscripted into the standards. What the film covers with film. And Auli’i Cravalho, who is Native army, and then spends 12 years fighting this one character is the dehumanizing Hawaiian, has been cast as the voice of before returning home. She actively of people of color, the association of Moana, Disney’s first Polynesian princess, participates in the roles expected of her, blackness with the absence of civility, and which shows a conscious effort on and is a competent fighter at the outset the idea that it is the white man’s burden Disney’s part to give a voice to the people of the story, which contrasts directly with to civilize them. And yes, the reference whose culture they are representing. the clutzy, initially incompetent Mulan to Rudyard Kipling’s ‘The White Man’s Perhaps there is promise on the horizon. presented by Disney. The watering down Burden’ was intentional, considering he Plus, there have definitely been some of this legend not only demeans things that Disney has done right, Mulan’s story, but it is outright “WHEN PRODUCING A FILM THAT like disrupting the common frame disrespectful of the culture the tale to show that a woman without a WILL IMPACT THE PERCEPTION husband can rule a kingdom in was taken from in the first place. This disrespect also appears in Frozen, and showing an incredibly OF AN ENTIRE CULTURE, IT IS the small comical dragon, Mushu, cast of characters in Big IMPERATIVE THE TRY TO GET IT diverse voiced by Eddie Murphy. His role Hero 6. However, when we snuggle RIGHT. AND WHILE SOME MAY up to watch one of the classic in the film decentralizes the dragon as a symbol of nobility and honor ARGUE THAT IT IS DIFFICULT TO Disney films of our generation, we within Chinese culture by reducing have the benefit of these new REPRESENT OTHER CULTURES don’t him to a comedic, supporting role. changes, and we may be getting a PERFECTLY, THAT DOES NOT Keep in mind, these are only a lot more than just a healthy dose few instances of the disrespectful EXCUSE THE DISREGARDING OF of fond childhood memories. trivializing of Chinese culture in Of course, Disney is not the only THEIR HISTORY AND HERITAGE.” this film. When producing a film offender of rewriting history or that will impact the perception of simplifying culture (I’m looking at an entire culture, it is imperative the was the original author of The Jungle you, third grade history class), but the try to get it right. And while some may Book. Though the messages from films fact that Disney is so popular amongst argue that it is difficult to represent other like this may not process consciously impressionable, young children makes cultures perfectly, that does not excuse amongst its audience, characters like its role in perpetuating these harmful the disregarding of their history and King Louie create an opportunity for stereotypes problematic. heritage. a comforting recall whenever a similar image is seen. Widely viewed Disney films The nostalgia of our perfect childhoods The Jungle Book’s King Louie is therefore lay the foundation of what race (in retrospect), to the tune of Disney exemplary of a Disney-created alternate fits a certain character and what doesn’t. songs is so great that we are often willing reality. When the movie was released in Historical black caricatures such as the to look past its harmful qualities for no 1967, it was amongst the ranks of many shuckin’ and jivin’ coon “fit” because other reason than, well, it’s Disney. My films that aimed to justify the unfair because through Disney and other point: it is time to rethink our classics, racial hierarchy in the U.S.. King Louie, companies, we have the underpinning whether they are films, songs, or clothing. an ape speaking in the broken English to understand that such a character In order to move forward, we ought to associated with African-Americans, exists. This correlation, whether we put pressure on our media sources to do declares that he wants to be civilized in like it or not, becomes imbedded in our better. And if doing better means letting the song “I Wanna Be Like You.” With perceptions of the world around us. go of some of our favorite princesses, this, the film advances the white savior villains, and well-versed animals, isn’t it trope and mischaracterizes the ways in Thankfully, in the current era of Disney worth it? which colonization operates by instilling films, there are visual efforts to redress the ideas that, 1. There is one standard these fundamental offenses to culture
November 2015 | 25
Threads Redefined Four UW-Madison Textile and Fashion Design students are redefining craft through their innovative designs and use of unconventional materials and processes. Directed by Taylor Palmby, Madalyn Manzeck, Alyce Wang and Kayla Cooke Creative Directors: Alexa Carlson and Kelsey Daykin Written By Madalyn Manzeck, Contributing Writer Designs by Em Kinville, Daisy Lopez, Erin Schulenberg and Andrew Trester Madison Bevan, Isabel Esch, Kiki Tao and Francisco Velazquez photographed by Cameron Smith
C
raft is a ubiquitous term. Just like the fibers of an intricately woven textile, the concept and manifestation of craft is woven throughout our daily lives. For Andrew Trester, a senior focusing on menswear design, craft is an activity involving skill in making things by hand. On the other hand, Daisy Lopez, a senior focusing on womenswear design, defined craft as being the inspiration and ideas that are behind the designs. Regardless of the definition or inspiration, the craft that went into each of these pieces is worthy of recognition.
finished product. He likes to push the limits of design, especially with his mixing of fabrics and textures. “I always like working with leather. The shearling was a new material for me, and I was able to learn how it drapes on the body and the restrictions involved. Silk is tricky to sew because it is slippery, but I like that challenge.” Trester’s design risk taking most certainly pays off , which is evident in his work.
Em Kinville, a junior studying womenswear design, decided to take a creative approach regarding her garment by using unconventional materials. The bodice of the dress is constructed of feathers that were hand sewn together. Em enjoys looking at materials in a new light and using them in ways they normally would not be. For her, this gives her pieces a truly unique and one of a kind couture feel.
For Lopez’s look, she wanted to focus on the hand embellishments. She enjoys the process of hand sewing and intentionally placing the embellishments one by one in order to create an illusion. She even burned and frayed the edges of the bodice to help make the top look like it was barely there. Daisy best describes her garment as “couture hand sewing” since the time, effort and final result cannot be mimicked by a sewing machine.
“The garments that I create are not only part of an amazing learning process,” Andrew Trester commented, “but also a journey that allows us to find out more about ourselves.” For Andrew, the design process is just as important as the
Perhaps Erin Schulenberg’s dress took the longest to construct simply because three distinct processes were involved. First, her garment began as thread that underwent a dyeing process called ikat. In ikat dyeing, the thread is tied in a
specific pattern to resist all the indigo dye. It is an extremely laborious and time consuming process in and off itself. Schulenberg, who is a junior focusing on textile design, then continued to weave her ikat dyed thread into fabric. Schulenberg then proceeded to create a dress from the fabric that she had woven. It is apparent that a lot of time and precision went into the making of this garment and it was truly made with a lot of love and care.
“THE GARMENTS THAT I CREATE ARE NOT ONLY PART OF AN AMAZING LEARNING PROCESS, BUT ALSO A JOURNEY THAT ALLOWS US TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT OURSELVES.� - Student Designer Andrew Trester
The focus of this piece is to expose the various processes of fashion design and to showcase the amazing work of the Textile and Fashion Design students at UW-Madison. Whether it be textile or fashion design or any other major, it is important to not only appreciate the finished product but also the process and the craft that went into each piece. Just like every single one of us, our clothes are unique and truly one of a kind.
30 | November 2015
Zentangle maneuvering mindfulness By Sydney Weng, Arts Writer
We are a lost generation. A generation composed of dreamers attempting to navigate through life as it becomes increasingly dependent on technology and littered with excess. How do we find balance in a world that demands constant participation in order to keep up? Recently I found an answer mindfulness through Zentangle. Following a major fight with my boyfriend, I found myself bitter and unable to focus. My friend responded to my sadness by handing me a catalogue of five patterns, a square piece of paper, a black pen and the suggestion that I cope by imitating patterns instead of sulking. Rather than drowning in despair, I focused my attention on the simple patterns she assigned me to copy. The shapes and lines in front of me served as a distraction, gradually pulling me out of my frustrated state. When I escaped 32 | November 2015
my frenzy of emotions, I actually figured out how to address the situation that was causing them. My friend taught me how to use the practice of Zentangle to achieve balance in my life. Zentangle is an art method, which provides those who practice it a way to achieve a state of mindfulness. It forces your brain to rest but keeps the user attentive so that he or she can figure out how to deal with the things that overwhelm it on a daily basis. A Zentangle is a piece of art traditionally created on a 3.5 inch square tile with black ink and no ability to erase. It differs from other pieces of art because it is meant to be a process of discovery with no specific end goal. Each stroke must be deliberate with reflection causing it to differ from doodling. While you are not supposed to have a specific plan in mind
while creating, you must use intense focus in order to achieve the meditative state it enables. There are now Certified Zentangle Teachers around the world who help students find the path to meditation. I spoke with Katie Butler, a CZT currently residing in Wisconsin, about the power of Zentangle. Autoimmune diseases and insomnia serve as daily demons for her, but she uses Zentangle to deal with them. Butler was an art teacher when she was introduced to the art method. “I thought I was going crazy, not being able to go to sleep,” Butler said. “[When] I started Zentangling... my pain was literally reduced...There is so much more to this than art.” About a decade ago, Rick Roberts and Maria Thomas founded Zentangle in
Massachusetts. It now has gone global, through CZTs spreading the art method. Butler incorporates Zentangle into her teaching to help other people alleviate their personal causes of pain and avoid over-dependence on pain-killing medications. “My favorite part of Zentangle is that it can help everybody in a different way,” Butler said. “Whatever you are struggling [with] the most, you can use Zentangle as a mechanism [to deal]. It’s not a magic pill or snakeoil remedy, it’s a way for you to control your body by focusing any kind of depression, stress or any kind of pain into art.” Diane Tai, a CZT from Taiwan who now resides in New York, inspired my friend to embrace Zentangle as a coping mechanism. Tai said rather than focusing on perfecting the results, the process of creating the art echoes the life process and enables balance. “It’s kind of like introspection with myself,” Tai said Tai’s teaching has helped many in Taiwan to find peace. Kaiserine Ho, one of Tai’s students was one of the lucky pupils who benefited from her teachings. “Like life, there is no right or wrong in Zentangle, it’s just about how you perceive things from a different perspective,” Ho said.
Above: author’s own Zentangles
Tess Imobersteg, a Wisconsin CZT, shared albums of her work with me over coffee and expressed a goal she holds with Butler to expand the art method to younger people. She said most people are tentative to try it, but by “jumping in with both feet and trying it”, they can create a close and intimate relationship with the powerful art form. I am mesmerized by how the simple process acts as a medium between the human psyche and emotional balance. I find the passion the CZTs have to enable others to improve their lives impressive. We are all a bit lost, amidst the variety of challenges posed by modern society, but according to the Zentangle slogan, “anything is possible, one stroke at a time.” Mindfulness takes over and navigation out of our stress is made possible. The official zentangle website (founded by Rick & Maria): www.zentangle.com
Diane Tai Zentange November 2015 | 33
I n s t a Yo u
credit: intstayou - blog
By Kelsey Simonson, Contributing Writer
Instagram is a place where you can curate your life through photos. You pick and choose aspects to display to others, so why wouldn’t you want to showcase the best moments of your life? I have recently started to craft an InstaGlam aesthetic that represents my personality and features the things I find beautiful. After stalking various celebrities and bloggers, I picked up a few tricks of the trade that help to brand your Instagram as uniquely yours:
34 | November 2015
1. Pick a theme. Are you preppy, edgy, girly? Figure out who you are and stick with it. Once you have this figured out, it is easier to come up with ideas for photos.
2. Use an app. Apps are designed to make everything
easier. I find VSCO to be super helpful. It allows you to see your edited photos in a grid before posting them to your Instagram feed. Here you can make sure the tone of the photos match, creating a cohesive set of pictures on your profile. Additionally, Snapseed, Camera+ and Overgram can assist you in creating your personal brand.
Writer Kelsey Simonson’s Personal Intagram
3.
7. Experiment. Use your environment to add to the aesthetic.
4.Plan! Plan! Plan!
8. Do your research. Time your posts to attract the most
You don’t have to post instantly. Save up a few pictures to help you follow your theme. Having a stock of pictures will allow you to post more frequently, especially when you are at a creative roadblock.
Keep track of captions, inspiration or anything that comes to mind throughout the day. I keep a folder of photos and a section in my notes dedicated strictly to Instagram.
5.Learn to say no. Some snapshots just don’t fit. That picstitch
of embarrassing photos for your friend’s birthday might be funny, but it could throw off your entire theme. Some posts are better for Facebook.
That brick wall on the outside of your apartment is perfect for a background. The tools you need are all around, you just have to recognize them.
viewers. I’ve found that early evening and Sunday posts tend to reach the most people.
9.
Use Relevant Hashtags. These will draw viewers with similar interests to your page. Creeping on popular hashtags can also give you that kick of inspiration when you really need it. Who doesn’t love getting caught up in a good Insta creep session?
6.Think of it as art. It’s time to let the creative juices flow and 10. Make it something you’re proud of. It’s the version of you show off your artsy side. Think outside of the box; you don’t have to flood Instagram with pictures of yourself to show off your personality.
that’s being shown to the world, so make it your best one.
November 2015 | 35
Images from “Til It Happens To You” music video
L A DY G AG A SPEAKS FOR THE SILENCED She chooses to inform rather than entertain in her video for “Til It Happens To You”
By James DePolis, Contributing Writer Gaga’s “Til It Happens To You” music L ady video delivers emotionally charged scenes that
are not meant to entertain like those of previous music videos for “Applause” or “Bad Romance.”.In fact, Gaga doesn’t appear in the video at all. With an opening message to warn viewers of unsettling content, the video sinitiates conversation about the issue of sexual assault on college campuses.Gaga’s voice serves as the voice of the silenced, scared and traumatized throughout the entire grayscale filtered video. This lack of color alludes to a lack of hope, forcing the audience to see reality through the eyes of victims. The song was written for The Hunting Ground, this year’s critically acclaimed documentary about campus rape, making the video’s college setting appropriate. In the video, written and directed by Twilight director, Catherine Hardwicke, Gaga brings light to the problem by producing several different instances of sexual assault. 36 | November 2015
A singer-songwriter works in her dorm room when a male comes in to greet her. He could be a friend, a boyfriend, a producer; they clearly know each other. He starts with playful touching which she tries to laugh off, but as his adamant behavior progresses to sexual assault, she is overpowered. A transgender male examines himself in the mirror when another man comes in and starts hazing him. The hazing escalates to rape. The man not only forces himself onto another person, but demeans and belittles him for his transgender identity throughout the assault. The final scene takes place at a college party, an environment familiar to many UW-Madison students. A chilling complement to the song itself, people are shown dancing, smiling, laughing, completely oblivious that a man is spiking the drinks of two women at the party. As they begin to lose consciousness, he leads them into a bedroom and
gets on top of one of them. She manage to fight him off before staggering out of the room with her friend.
be sexually assaulted this year unless something changes.”
Throughout the video, the camera’s focus wavers in and out, highlighting the instantaneous nature of sexual assault which can prevent victims from having the chance to process the situation. The only reaction they are capable of is one of the most natural human instincts: fight or flight.
To send a message of gravity on an issue most find too unsettling to confront is an art within itself. Lady Gaga, a victim of sexual assault herself, speaks the words of the silenced. The gruesomely honest depictions of rape shown in the video drew the attention of over 20 million viewers and hundreds of web articles to an issue desperately in need of attention. More important than receiving attention from the general public, it tells victims trying to cope with nightmarish realities that life after tragedy is made possible through the help of others.
The video goes beyond the shocking depictions of assault by portraying the aftermath. The victims appear grim, depressed, and silent. Incessant flashbacks leave them immobile. Phrases like “sometimes I hate myself,” written on their bodies, identify the thoughts they cannot voice. The video explodes with the powerful vocals of Gaga, voicing the internal screams of the victims, they declare the independence and control the victims are fighting to regain. Surrounded by support, the victims emerge from their rooms, escaping the metaphorical box that their sexual assault incidents forced them into. Perhaps the most heartbreaking of all is the lone woman at the end of the hallway, out of focus, unheard. Throughout the length of the video she lingers from door to door, yearning to confide in someone but ultimately falling victim to her emotional ruin. This powerful closing image delivers a bleak reality: there are many victims of sexual assault who feel trapped in a perpetual nightmare, unable to recover from the trauma to seek the help they need. Gaga’s video solidifies the truly sickening prevalence of the problem that “one in five college women will
According to a study released by the Association of American Universities, over 25 percent of UWMadison female undergraduates students have been victims of sexual assault. This percentage means that the horrible reality Lady Gaga depicted may be the reality for more than one in every four women on campus. This is a monumental issue that is impacting so many lives right here in Madison that we need to drop the stigma on sexual assault and welcome discussion on the matter for the sake of the victims who fear speaking out. If you or a loved one needs help following a sexual assault incident, call the National Sexual Assault/ RAINN Hotline at 1-800-656-HOPE (4673). Locate additional campus resources at http://www. uhs.wisc.edu/assault/assault.shtml
AAU 2015 report: http://uhs.wisc.edu/AAUSurvey/documents/task-force-report.pdf
November 2015 | 37
THE INDUSTRY OF
UPCYCLING By Darby Hoffman, Lifestyle Writer
As financially unstable college students, we understand what it means to make the most of what we can get. From coupons to DIYs, we’ve mastered the art, and we aren’t the only ones. In my hometown of Beloit, WI, an extreme amount of excitement has developed over a new shop called Vintage Bliss, which opened its doors this past summer. With the mantra, “Found. Rescued. Reloved.” the shop declares its mission to give new life to the treasures found in family attics and garage sales alike. The ability to create an industry and make profit off of dusty old knick-knacks is a development that has recently gained much speed and popularity. In a time when “vintage” has become one of the top trends to follow, it’s easy to step into a branch of a large chain-store and purchase something new that has been crafted to “look” old. The fault in these transactions, however, is the lack of authenticity that the merchandise often possesses. Purchasing a product with a legitimate history gives you access, not only to the quality that has lasted through years of who-knows-what, but also to the stories that have followed that item. The rise of real vintage has given way to a beautiful and eco-friendly realm of shopping. The unique aspect of this new wave of antique selling is the calculated collecting of beautiful artifacts by not only established vendors, such as Vintage Bliss, but also by independent individuals. One specific instance of this resale, and one of my favorites, has become known as “barn sales.” Unlike the stricter business-environment of antique stores, these pop-up shops more resemble the everyday garage sale you may just stumble upon. Often held in large open yards or barns, as you can safely presume by the name, anyone and everyone who feels the desire can showcase the treasures they’ve uncovered and make a quick buck while doing it. Now, these antiques that sellers are curating are not just dumpster-dive with a price 38 | November 2015
missgracieshouse.blogspot.com
missgracieshouse.blogspot.com
eclecticallyvintage.com tag slapped on. Most are transformed from the dusty and drab objects of their previous lives, into beautifully upcycled pieces that would make any common shopper drool. These eclectic selections can house a huge variety of purchasable prizes. The possibilities are endless, and are completely unique to each vendor’s inventory. Each item has its own unique potential to be reinvented. All it may take is a new coat of paint and some shiny hardware. Beyond the history and the beauty accompanying these buys, those who choose to re-love their purchases also gain the added bonus of saving the world. A large claim, I am aware, but our consumption as shoppers is one of the larger problems facing our environment today. By deciding to buy second-hand, you erase the need for some factory to craft a new product. Choose to reuse, and gain a chic antique while doing it.
housebeautiful.com
“...those who choose to re-love their purchases also gain the added bonus of saving the world.�
MODA