Meg Rotter Editor in Chief Claire Hornacek Deputy Editor Alexandra Folino Art Director Victoria Fok WUD Publications Committee Director Jim Rogers WUD Publications Committee Advisor Deshawn McKinney WUD President
OCTOBER
2016
Alix DeBroux Haidee Chu Associate Art Director Jenn Chen Amelia Faist Claire Grummon Sarah Friedland Marissa Haegele Cassie Hurwitz Photography Directors Ashley Mackens Ashley Ng Jameson Zaballos Xinyi Wang Web Master Clarke Smith Jordan Stombaugh Ben Golden Staff Writers Arts Curator Bri Lerner Kenzie Bryant Maddy Selner Special Projects Designer Contributing Writers Kelsey Daykin Alexandria Calnin Reilly Koch Jaylin Carlson Creative Directors Catherine Hood Eleanor Larsen Alexa Carlson Julia Schiller Fashion Editor Marlee Yahn Models Darby Hoffman Lifestyle Editor Marissa Haegele, Akmal Hakim, Meredith Johnson, Moriah Ziman Haley Nippert Photography Culture Editor Cassie Hurwitz, Michael Klimmeck Margaret Duffey Makeup and Hair Arts Editor Special thanks to Jameson Zaballos The Rock Agency Men’s Editor Anna Olla Eva-Delilah Wieland Special Events Coordinators Taylor Palmby Marketing and Social Media Liason
on the
COVER
Jaylin Carlson photographed by Marissa Haegele Makeup by Michael Klimmeck
rock the vote. Back when Obama ran for his second term in 2012, I had the privilege of being a fresh 18-yearold, meaning that I could vote. However, at this time I was much more obsessed with “keeping up� with the Kardashian clan than I was with being an informed voter, and had not watched even a single debate. Luckily, I had a socially informed mother who made sure I got my ass down to the polls. I remember thinking it was just an inconvenience in my day and that it made no difference in the grand scheme of things if I voted or not. How wrong I was. With four more years under my belt, I am heading into this election with a completely different mindset. I am voting because I believe in my candidate, and I want to see a woman in office. I am voting because
it is my right and duty as a US citizen. I am voting because I want my voice heard by my elected officials. Even if you are impartial to either of the presidential candidates, there are still many other reasons to vote. When you cast your ballot in November, you are also voting for other public offices, you are helping make our democracy more representative and even a vote to a third party can have an impact. Staying silent will not benefit you in any way. So go register to vote today, and be prepared for Tuesday, November 8. Best,
LIFESTYLE
OCTOBER
2016
FASHION
5 28 42 45
SIBLING RIVALRY
Celebrity sisters go head-to-head for the fashion spot light.
GUCCI HAS A GHOST Graffiti art meets luxury fashion.
FASHION VS. FEUD
41
RECOGNIZING A TOXIC FRIENDSHIP
H&M COLLABORATIONS: THE BEST & THE WORST A definitive ranking of the Swedish retailer’s best and worst collaborations
THE COLIN KAEPERNICK CONTROVERSY The importance of symbolic protest... and the problem of calling for its silence.
4 | OCTOBER 2016
Who says you can only have one beauty look?
CHALLENGE THE DISTANCE
Skype isn’t the only way to connect with longdistance friends
Spotting your frenemies, one shady act at a time
ART
40
ART THERAPY IS FOR YOU
43
MUSIC RIVALRIES THAT KEEP THE MEDIA BUZZING
44
MASTERY THROUGH MEDITATION
Take a crash course on fashion law.
CULTURE
12
8 27
BATTLE OF THE BEAUTY
Exploring expression as remedy
A recent history the industry’s “bad blood”
Tackling behavioral problems in school, one namaste at a time
MEN’S
6
FALL FASHION ESSENTIALS The must-haves for any guy’s fall fashion repertoire.
FEATURED
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BRANDS FOR THE BETTER Fashion with a mind for the earth? Count us in.
PRETTY RECKLESS The perfect collision of glamour and punk
SIBLING RIVALRY BY ASHLEY MACKENS, FASHION WRITER
We’ve all heard it before, the fashion industry is cutthroat. It is hard enough to compete with strangers for the cover of a magazine, spot in a runway show or attention on the red carpet, but some celebrities have to go up against their siblings for the spotlight. Sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid, and Kendall and Kylie Jenner are under a sort of unspoken scrutiny to determine who is dominating the fashion scene. When sisters of the same blood are performing equally well, how do you measure who is more successful? The Hadid girls can best be described as night and day. Bella’s dark hair and striking features set her apart from her older sister, Gigi, who has a light-as-air look. Their differences make them even harder to compare. It’s not as if one girl does a certain look better, simply because their looks are not the same. They book different gigs, walk in different shows and have different street style.
PEOPLE.COM
Once in awhile they work together, but for the most part keep their careers separate and individualized. Thus, the only way to settle this is by looking at popularity. In this category, Gigi prevails. With Instagram likes in the millions, the eldest Hadid has a following that can’t be ignored. There is no doubt that Bella will PUBLIC.FR
get there in time, but for now Gigi is the more influential Hadid. Jenner sisters Kendall and Kylie have been on America’s radar since they were pre-teens. When Keeping up with the Kardashians first aired, the girls were hard to distinguish. Close in age and appearance, and living in the shadows of their older sisters, no one paid much attention to what differentiated these girls. Now as young adults, Kendall and Kylie’s differences are what define them, again making them hard to compare. Kendall falls more into the Hadid category of supermodel extraordinaire. Kylie, on the other hand, is more of a business woman, starting her own makeup line. In terms of fashion, it’s Kendall’s job whereas it’s Kylie’s hobby. If one Jenner had to be assigned as the fashion icon, it would have to be Kendall. Although Kylie’s street style is unparalleled, Kendall has become quite the force in the world of high fashion, and for that she is crowned the champion. Harmless sibling rivalries like that found in the Hadid and Jenner households is beneficial for the evolution of the individual. Having a sister that pushes you to be better everyday is an incredible blessing. It is fun to follow these four women and see how they strive to advance in their fields. The fashion industry may be a tough one to be a part of, but having the support of a sibling allows you to learn from each other and conquer the world together. OCTOBER 2016 | 5
MEN’S
FALL FASHION
ESSENTIALS BY JORDAN STOMBAUGH, MEN’S WRITER
The leaves are falling, the nights are longer and you’ve probably noticed you can’t rock the v-neck/linen shorts combo anymore (it was inevitable). With fall fashion in full swing, it’s time to throw the boat shoes and tank tops in storage and dust off the bean boots and wool sweaters. And while there may be some noticeable gaps in your layering repertoire, we’ve curated a list of essentials that will leave you with a fulfilling list of options to choose from before your morning classes. These essentials are not only necessary, they’re versatile, allowing you to create tons of outfits from just a few items. This is especially helpful when you’re an almost-broke college student (like me) but you still want to dress in a way that not only makes an impression, but also makes you feel confident. So, without further ado, here’s a list of the essentials every guy should have in his fall wardrobe - with prices ranging from “broke college student” to “stuff you’ll have to eat ramen for a month to afford.” Even if it looks expensive, have no fear; look at this guide as more of a style inspiration than a rigid checklist.
JCREW.COM
THE FLANNEL BUTTON-UP
Button-up shirts are a staple for any wardrobe, and most guys have a half-dozen in a solid bi-weekly rotation. However, shifting to a flannel button-up is particularly nice in the fall because it’s a bit heavier, softer and will keep you warm during your walk to class. What’s more, they almost always come in some classic fall colors, and this navy and red number from J. Crew would fit into the fall color palette quite nicely - just be sure to catch it on sale.
THE GINGHAM BUTTON-DOWN
While flannel is well and good, sometimes the days drift between warm and chilly. For this ambiguous weather, a gingham button-down is a great shirt to have in your shirt arsenal. Its simplicity makes it incredibly versatile, meaning you can wear it alone with jeans, under a sweater or with a cardigan. As for colors, I’m partial to navy, and Uniqlo has one for a tempting, broke-college-student price.
LEATHER SHOES
No amount of great suit/shirt/tie combos is going to save a pair of bad shoes. A pair of leather shoes with a wooden and leather sole gives a more sophisticated look and can weather the rougher parts of fall as well. At the corner of style and comfort lies the great entry-level brand Clark’s, my go-to for their great bang-for-your-buck. Snag a pair in the classic cognac leather.
UNIQLO.SCENE7.COM
6 | OCTOBER 2016 CLARKSUSA.COM
EVERLANE.COM
7FORALLMANKIND.COM
DARK WASH DENIM
THE CARDIGAN
The cardigan is often mentioned in the same breath as fall fashion, and for good reason. Not only is it a chic look, like the cashmere sweater, it’s extremely flexible. Getting one in a neutral color (black, navy, gray) like this gray merino cardigan from Ralph Lauren will garner infinite compliments. It’s on the pricier side, but a quality cardigan is an investment seldom regretted.
M .C O A C YS B O S. C O
No “fall staples” wardrobe is complete without some olive chinos. Not only is olive a classic fall color, but it was almost born into the rest of the season’s color palette. You can find them everywhere, and Bonobos in particular uses a unique paisley pattern on the inside that’s a nice touch.
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For anyone who has to endure the arctic tundra of a Wisconsin winter, a cashmere sweater is almost a must. And why black? It’s a fantastic neutral color that will go with just about anything. The v-neck sweater is also uber-versatile; you can not only throw it over a T-shirt or a button-down shirt to keep it casual, but also dress it up with a dress shirt and tie underneath. Most importantly, the absolutely euphoric feeling of cashmere against your skin is in itself a good enough reason to snag one of these. Trust me, it’s worth the extra cash. When it comes to the brand, Everlane has decently priced (for cashmere), classic, comfortable sweaters, but Uniqlo also has some great offerings.
You’re going to want to keep your feet nice and toasty in those new boots you bought half a size larger to accommodate the warmth of thick socks. These socks from Nordstrom scream fall and they’re made of merino wool, so your toes will be frostbiteproof (as far as we’ve experienced).
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One of the biggest regrets I’ve ever had is skimping on dark-wash jeans. Reflecting on how much jeans are in the wardrobe rotation led me to invest in a quality pair the next time around. It’s one of the most versatile items on this list; jeans work from gameday to date night. Opt for slim-fit unless you’ve got a clear look in mind - boot cut looks a little too saggy, while skinny jeans are just a tad too skinny. The go-to brand of designer jeans right now is 7 For All Mankind. They’re uber-comfy for being so slim, and you’ll never regret the cash you drop on a good pair like these.
We’d be fools not to end with the scarf. Not only are they versatile, but they come in almost every fabric, and there are a few that fit in really well with the fall aesthetic. Look for wool or cashmere especially, as they provide the most warmth. Local options are easy too - a few years back I picked up a cashmere scarf at Jazzman on State Street and it’s been a staple of my wardrobe ever since. OCTOBER 2016 | 7
B A T T L E O F
T H E
B E U A T Y A U BY CASSIE HURWITZ, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER ELEANOR LARSEN, JULIA SCHILLER, AND ALEXANDRIA CALNIN PHOTOGRAPHED BY MEREDITH JOHNSON MAKEUP BY CASSIE HURWITZ
Every magazine in the fashion and beauty industry has been guilty of asking readers “What is your style personality?” The quizzes catch you by surprise when flipping through Elle and entice you while scrolling on Allure’s website. Each aims to do the same thing: ask you a series of questions that determine the one trait that can define your entire style. However, one word cannot encapsulate everything that a person’s style has to offer.
I took one of these quizzes and pondered the idea that my favorite magazines were all trying to capture me in one word. After a series of six questions I received the “classic” style category. Although it is true that I put myself together in a way that never goes out of style, I also love mixing things up with purple lipstick or a funky, patterned top. Overall, I found myself disappointed in what description the “experts” assigned me. While these magazines try their best to create a fun quiz to take with your friends
and compare answers, they ultimately put their readers into a box. The stereotypical styles provided - girly, confident, minimal, trendy - all suggest that once you are deemed one of the styles, there is no turning back. This single buzz word becomes who you are. Don’t color outside the lines. Don’t try to change it. Realistically, however, it is impossible to look at ourselves so narrowly. Not only are people allowed to express themselves differently in each moment, they are also allowed to grow and change through different periods of their lives. It is necessary to buy new clothes when you outgrow them, so it should be equally as important to evolve your style preferences as you learn new things about yourself. This evolution may involve various elements of your personality and your individual expression. Just because a magazine quiz states that you are “girly,” does not mean you are limited to only pink lipstick and floral dresses. Why not change it up with a smoky eye or black boots? Style is about more than what one archetype you fit into. Style is personalization, mixing and matching, thinking outside the box. Most of all, style is about presenting yourself the way you want to look in any given moment. One word does not define your style personality. Find the unique intersection of your favorite beauty trends, and create a look that is unapologetically you, in all of your complexities.
BARE + BOLD
Dark lipstick can be offputting at first, but what better time is there to try out the trend than fall? Berry, burgundy and wine are popular colors for autumn, and can match the hues you’re sporting in your wardrobe this season. By pairing dramatic lipstick with minimalist eyes, your lips are bound to stand out, while your eyes stay with a familiar, comfortable look.
GIRLY + PUNK
Graphic liner and bubblegum lipstick are strong on their own, but together they create the perfect contrast of feminine and fearless. Emphasize your “girly� side by coating your lips in the truest pink you can find, and accompany the color with a bright blush of a similar shade. Offset this standard look by lining your eyes in intense black. Who says pink is all a girl can wear?
ELECTRIC + EARTHY
Channel both your wild and down-to-earth sides by matching warm lips and cheeks with cool, bright eyes. The nude tones of the lipstick are flattering on their own but still allow the eyes to be the main focus. The eyes are fierce, but become slightly softer when paired with earthy tones.
THE
COL I N KA EP ER N IC K
C O N T R O V E R S Y : ON STANDING UP— OR KNEELING DOWN— AGAINST OPPRESSION BY HAIDEE CHU, CULTURE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
GETTYIMAGES.COM
It’s a familiar drill: the flag rises as people stand to salute the patriotic tune that echoes throughout the stadium. As iconic symbols of unity and patriotism, the United States’ flag and national anthem have witnessed some of American history’s most grievous battles and glorious triumphs. Yet, decades later, the echoes of these battles continue to resonate among those who are oppressed under the same melody and star-spangled banner. This leads to the paradoxical question: is this supposedly beloved banner a symbol of perseverance, justice and freedom, or is it merely a mirage of freedom that serves to overshadow the torments of silent oppression and injustice faced by America’s most vulnerable citizens? 12 | OCTOBER 2016
Over the years, many have sought to make their answers to this question loud and clear. American Olympic medalists Tommie Smith and John Carlos were among the first to participate in a symbolic protest during the 1968 Mexico City Olympics.1 The two raised their fists above their heads during the national anthem, performing the “black power salute,” or what Smith called the “human rights salute,” to denounce ongoing racial discrimination in the U.S. during the era, as well as to support the Civil Rights Movement. While they were both expelled from the Olympics and became instant subjects of criticism, they paved the way for later athletes to utilize the sporting platform to bring such matters under public spotlight.
For more than a month now, San Francisco 49ers quarterback Colin Kaepernick has been protesting racial inequality and police brutality by either sitting or kneeling during the national anthem, an action that has sparked immense public attention and controversy. His critics come from all ends of the spectrum. Not only have high-profile figures such as the Republican presidential nominee, Donald Trump, called his action a “terrible thing,” Kaepernick claims to have received multiple death threats.2 Despite considerable backlash, the protest continues to grow as more come to understand Kaepernick’s intentions and other athletes kneel in solidarity with him.
Cosgrove, Ben. “The Black Power Salute That Rocked the 1968 Olympics.” September 27, 2014. time.com.
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Macguire, Eoghan. “Colin Kaepernick: Quarterback Says He Has Received Death Threats.” CNN, September 22, 2016. edition.cnn.com.
“I am not going to stand up to show pride in a flag for a country that oppresses black people and people of color,” said Kaepernick through NFL.com. “To me, this is bigger than football and it would be selfish on my part to look the other way. There are bodies in the street and people getting paid leave and getting away with murder.”3 Indeed, institutional racism continues to permeate and taint modern day America, much to some people’s disbelief. While de facto laws explicitly targeting racial minorities have been largely eradicated, many social institutions and systems continue to infringe upon the rights of racial minorities through more covert means of discrimination. Among the several forms in which institutional racism exists, the criminal justice and law enforcement systems have arguably attracted the most national attention, especially in light of the recent shootings and subsequent protests in Charlotte, North Carolina and Tulsa, Oklahoma. It is important to note, however, that the problem does not necessarily take root in the misconduct of individuals taking advantage within these systems but in the way these institutions foster implicit biases from a larger systematic level. For instance, “Stop and Frisk” as a crime prevention mechanism encourages police officers who don’t necessarily have racial agendas to participate in racial profiling under systemic pressure. That said, detailed examinations and reforms in these systems are crucial to altering this disturbing reality. Kaepernick’s action and call for awareness is perhaps, then, a cry for change in a seemingly impenetrable system. Nonetheless, many have condemned the silent protest by Kaepernick and other athletes, calling their actions ungrateful, anti-patriotic and disrespectful to soldiers and veterans. In response, Kaepernick said, “there’s a lot of racism disguised as patriotism in this country and people don’t like to address that and they don’t like to address what the root of this protest is.” He continued to lament, “I realize men and women of the military go out and sacrifice their lives, put themselves in harm’s way for my freedom of speech and my freedoms in this country, my freedom to take a seat or take a knee. I have the utmost respect for them.”4 Such remarks against symbolic protesters aren’t unprecedented. For decades, protests have been exploited and demeaned in the Wyche, Steve. “Colin Kaepernick Explains Why He Sat During National Anthem.” August 27, 2016. www. nfl.com. 4 Martin, Jill, Madison Park, and Paul Vercammen. “Colin Kaepernick Continues Anthem Protest Before Chargers Game.” CNN, September 2, 2016. edition. cnn.com/. 3
name of “patriotism” as a means to silence the black community and avoid addressing issues of systemic racism. During World War I, the U.S. government instituted “Work or Fight” rules, which “stipulated that those not aiding the war effort—by either working or fighting—could be arrested.”5 According to Paula Giddings, a professor of AfricanAmerican Studies at Smith College, this allowed black labor strikes to be framed as “unpatriotic” and forced black men and women, who were rightfully protesting their exploitative wages and working conditions, to participate in the militaryindustrial complex, either by forced work or through military service. Patriotism, in this case, became a means to extract labor from the black community. Jumping forward several decades to 1966, prior to the organization’s internal upheaval, the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee (SNCC) was also reprehended for their protest against the Vietnam War in light of the murder of Navy veteran, Sammy Younge Jr. The group’s protest was deemed unpatriotic, as they suggested in their position paper that the U.S. should not fight in the name of freedom overseas when they have “never guaranteed the freedom of oppressed citizens, and [were] not yet truly determined to end the rule of terror and oppression within its own borders.”6 Just like Kaepernick, their actions were not a reproof of U.S. values, but a statement against the hypocrisy of a nation which claims to fight for freedom but does not guarantee it for its black citizens. Their goal was not to be disrespectful and unpatriotic. It was to redeem their right to the liberties so professed by this nation. In that sense, their motives were the height of patriotism. But the reactions to Kaepernick’s movement were not all negative. There are just as many in support of Kaepernick as there are in opposition. Take Megan Rapinoe, midfielder of the National Women’s Soccer Team and the Seattle Reign. She, too, has been kneeling during the national anthem as “a nod to Kaepernick.” In an article for The Player’s Tribune, Rapino wrote, “I can understand if you think that I’m disrespecting the flag by kneeling, but it is because of my utmost respect for the flag and the promise it represents that I have chosen to demonstrate in this way… because I believe it is my responsibility, just as it is yours, to ensure that freedom is afforded to everyone in this country.”7 And while Rapinoe admitted that she has never encountered the traumas of over-policing, racial profiling and police brutality, her action speaks to the power of Giddings, Paula J. When and Where I Enter: The Impact of Black Women on Race and Sex in America. 2nd ed. New York: William Morrow & Company, 2007. 6 Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee. “SNCC: On Vietnam.” 1966. www2.iath.virginia.edu. 7 Rapinoe, Megan. “Why I Am Kneeling.” October 6, 2016. www.theplayerstribune.com. 5
allyship and the importance of recognizing your privilege when standing in solidarity with those who are oppressed. It is only through sympathy and unity that we are able to affect change. What Kaepernick’s detractors fail to understand is the importance of symbolic protest in and of itself. From flag burning to refusing to participate in the pledge or national anthem, these acts are purposeful and the intent behind them should be the focus. Kaepernick and others are well aware of the highly symbolic nature of something like the national anthem within the context of the United States. The values of freedom and liberty which are embedded in these national symbols are, in many cases, held deeply by those who participate in their near consecration. What protesters aim to communicate in their refusal to rise for the anthem is that those values are not equally afforded to all American citizens, and therefore the symbol itself is hypocritical. The freedoms represented in the anthem, the pledge or the flag cannot just be symbolic; they must be made substantive. That is the goal of individuals like Kaepernick when they protest. As the poet Emma Lazarus once said, “until we are all free, we are none of us free.” As the national anthem plays on, we must bear in mind the constraints and burdens that injustices pose to the oppressed in our country, as well as the threat these injustices pose to liberty—the values and beliefs that bind us all together as Americans. Demeaning and dismissing the actions and intentions of symbolic
“THE FREEDOMS REPRESENTED IN THE ANTHEM, THE PLEDGE OR THE FLAG CANNOT JUST BE SYMBOLIC; THEY MUST BE MADE SUBSTANTIVE.” protesters as unpatriotic, then, poses an immense threat to the pursuit of true liberty. And so, standing or kneeling, we must all fight in solidarity with those willing to fight and protest relentlessly to pursue true protection of their inalienable rights. We must battle in unity with the warriors who desperately await the melody of the “Star-Spangled Banner” to one day declare that they, too, truly belong in the land of the free and the home of the brave.
OCTOBER 2016 | 13
BRANDS FOR THE BETTER WE’RE GIVING SOME LOVE TO BRANDS THAT ARE MAKING A POSITIVE IMPACT, WHETHER THAT’S THROUGH ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY PRACTICES, CHARITABLE GIVING, ETHICAL SOURCING OR EMPOWERING ARTISANS AND COMMUNITIES ALL OVER THE WORLD.
MODELS CATHERINE HOOD| MARLEE YAHN PHOTOGRAPHY MORIAH ZIMAN CREATIVE DIRECTION KELSEY DAYKIN | REILLY KOCH SUPPLEMENTARY IMAGERY NIKLAS VEENHUIS
LIP COLOR | BURT’S BEES LIP CRAYON IN CAROLINA COAST
LIP COLOR | BURT’S BEES LIP CRAYON IN CAROLINA COAST SKIN | LUSH CHARITY POT LOTION
GLASSES | WARBY PARKER
FAUX CHETTAH FUR COAT | LUCKY BRAND
THONG | THINX BRACELETS | PURA VIDA
SWEATER DRESS | H&M CONSCIOUS COLLECTION BRACELETS | PURA VIDA
CROPPED TANK TOP | SERENGETEE
LUSH BIG BANG BUBBLE BAR
TOP BRACELET | FIORÉ REFURBISHED ARTS & ACCESSORIES TOP FLEECE | PATAGONIA BOTTOM SHIRT | SERENGETEE
BOTTOM SWEATER DRESS | H&M CONSCIOUS COLLECTION BRACELETS | PURA VIDA SILVER NECKLACE | SATYA JEWELRY LOTUS NECKLACE
BETTER BRANDS FASHION FEATURES // BURT’S BEES Burt’s Bees demonstrates a multifaceted commitment to sustainability. The average Burt’s Bees product is composed of 99% natural ingredients and their packaging is partially made from post-consumer recycled product. The company also exercises ethical sourcing practices, lays out sustainable practices in annual sustainability reports and is the founder of the Burt’s Bees Greater Good Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to honey bee health. H&M CONSCIOUS COLLECTION The dress pictured here is made of 60 percent recycled polyester post-consumer waste. While we think fast fashion mogul H&M still has a long way to go in its sustainability practices, their Conscious collection is a step in the right direction. PURA VIDA “Pura Vida” means choosing to live life to the fullest and encourages the appreciation of life’s simple treasures. Each unique Pura Vida bracelet is handcrafted by artisans in Costa Rica. They’ve partnered with over 190 charities and have donated more than $930,000. THINX THINX is a period underwear brand that works with AFRIpads in Uganda to employ local women, making and selling reusable pads so that their community’s young girls can attend school without fear of menstrual complications. LUSH LUSH’s handmade bath products and cosmetics are made with fresh and organic ingredients and are never tested on animals. The company fronts many ethical campaigns, boasts countless sustainability efforts (including the option to buy some products “naked”- aka with no packaging) and participates in ethical buying. Also, with every purchase of the Charity Pot Lotion, the price of the lotion goes towards a grassroots organization (this particular Charity Pot Lotion benefits the Texas organization Undoing Racism Austin). WARBY PARKER You may know eyewear brand Warby Parker for its unique home try-on program, but did you also know they help get glasses to people in need? With their buy one, give one program and affordable prices you can shop their fun specs guilt-free. PATAGONIA “Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.” Patagonia’s mission statement says it all. SERENGETEE Formed just four years ago, Serengetee is an apparel and accessory company that incorporates fabrics made from global artisans and assembles them in Los Angeles, with 10 percent of all sales going to a wide range of home-grown organizations. As Serengetee shares on their website, when you wear one of their products, “you are truly wearing a piece of the world.” SATYA Satya Jewelry donates a portion of each of its sales to the Satya Foundation, an organization whose purpose is to implement a positive change in disenfranchised children’s lives across the globe. To date, the Satya Foundation has raised over $1 million for their cause.
26 | OCTOBER 2016
Challenge the Distance
Challenge Your Friendship By Maddy Selner, Contributing Writer
UNSPLASH.COM
BY MADDY SELNER, CONTRIBUTING WRITER Everyone has a person - the best friend with whom they have been through life’s most trying times, formed inside jokes and even went so far as to share a sip or two of their coffee together. Leaving your person is extremely difficult. I confess that I went through some harsh withdrawal symptoms when I first planned on attending a different college than my friends. It seemed unimaginable at the time, but after some crafty communication techniques on our part, we found a way to remain as close as we were during our acne prone, awkward bangs phase. In our efforts to stay in contact, we devised a series of competitions to carry us through the school year. The first was a ‘30 Day No Spending Challenge.’ The winner would suffer through 30 days without buying any unnecessary material items, while the loser, unable to reach the 30 day mark, would splurge on some unnecessary purchases (and I thought going to different schools was going to be the hardest part!). Let me tell you, the urge to shop is strong. There is nothing
that compares to the comfort you get from buying a new tube of lipstick or pair of shoes.
college. The month long absence from Target was a struggle for both of us, but completely worth it.
To keep each other from falling off the wagon, weekly Skype dates, a series of Snapchats, and competitive text messages circulated. The rules of the game pushed us to look at our own wardrobes with fresh eyes and to seek each other’s advice for outfits if we were caving to the pressure of a new fringe bag. This communication led to a plethora of Snapchats asking “does this look cute,” or “can you mail me those jeans if you are not wearing them?” Although seemingly trivial at the time, these short remarks led us to hour-long conversations about our new lives. Even if it was about the amazing pizza we had for lunch or the struggles of an 8:00 a.m. class, the chats we had through this competition proved that our friendship could be closer 450 miles apart than 100 feet away. After participating in this little competition for just 30 days, my friend and I saved enough money to treat ourselves to a campus visit at the other’s
College is all about meeting new people, expanding your horizons and branching out from the social circles you might have settled into during high school. Although developing lifelong relations is a jumpstart for a healthy college experience, it does not mean you have to abandon your hometown friends. Life takes us down different paths from our closest friends. However, there are so many ways to keep a long distance friendship flourishing. Whether through Skyping each other, keeping the Snapchat streak rolling, frequent calls or participating in a cross-campus competition, maintaining communication with your far-away friends is key to a successful long distance relationship. Plus, it’s easier than ever with social media and technology constantly at our fingertips. After a successful first campus competition, my next bonding challenge will hopefully bring me another win. Here I come ‘Fitbit Walking Contest!’
Gucci has a Ghost
NYMAG.COM
NYMAG.COM
BY XINYI WANG, FASHION WRITER Knockoffs are never in style, but high fashion parodies seem to be. Parodies, instead of buying into brand lust like knockoffs do, combine high-end fashion logos with pop culture to create an “anti-fashion” spirit. Gucci and GucciGhost, the “anti-fashion” parody artist, have an atypical relationship. This year they collaborated to design various pieces, proving that high-end fashion doesn’t always have to be serious.
GucciGhost was created by Trevor Andrew, a Canadian former snowboarder who loves Gucci. According to an interview in The New York Times, one Halloween Trevor cut his Gucci blanket with two holes to fashion a last minute ghost costume.1 After being called a “GucciGhost” that night, he had the idea of painting his playful art on actual Gucci New York Times, The Man and Spirit Behind GucciGhost, Gucci’s Renegade Line. 1
products. Due to the rapidly rising number of followers and likes on his Instagram, Trevor was finally invited to collaborate with the brand he has always loved. The designs were a success. His hand drawn Gucci logos appeared at the designer’s shows at Milan Fashion Week in February and New York Fashion Week in June. Apart from the clothing
“Underneath the jokes and wit, both the major brands and the parody creators are designers and artists who use fashion to express themselves.” line, Gucci has also decorated their 5th Avenue shop windows with GucciGhost’s funky drawings. In this collaboration, Gucci transformed from an Italian luxury brand into an icon of street fashion and pop culture. Street style stars such as Rihanna have been spotted toting GucciGhost purses, unofficially marking the success of this collaboration. IMAGES | NYMAG.COM
Not all fashion parodies are embraced by the high-end fashion brands they experiment with. In 2015, Yves Saint Laurent sued fashion parody brand What About Eves for their slogan “Ain’t Laurent Without Yves.”2 No matter if it’s Gucci or GucciGhost, Hermès or HOMIÈS, people are loving the mix of high-end fashion and street pop McCall, Tyler. “Yves Saint Laurent Sues Maker of Parody Tee.” Fashionista.com. 2
culture. Underneath the jokes and wit, both the major brands and the parody creators are designers and artists who use fashion to express themselves. Just recently, GucciGhost reformed its webpage. The long introductions and multiple links have been replaced by a simple video. What’s next for GucciGhost? Who knows, but we’re sure we’ll love it. OCTOBER 2016 | 29
PLENTY OF SILK, LUXURIOUS VELVET AND A LOT OF ROCK’N’ROLL. JAYLIN CARLSON PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARISSA HAEGELE DIRECTED BY ALEXA CARLSON AND ASHLEY NG ASSISTED BY CLARKE SMITH AND KELSEY KNEPLER MAKEUP BY MICHAEL KLIMMECK
DRESS | URBAN OUTFITTERS FUR STOLE | URBAN OUTFITTERS NECKLACE | ASOS SHOES | CAPE ROBBIN
T-SHIRT | BRANDY MELVILLE DRESS | URBAN OUTFITTERS BELT | EAR WAX NECKLACE | STYLIST’S OWN SHOES | CAPE ROBBIN
TANK | H&M JEANS | AMERICAN EAGLE SNEAKERS | 14TH & UNION JACKET | ABERCROMBIE & FITCH BANDANA | LULU’S NECKLACE | FOREVER 21
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Art Therapy is for You BY SARAH FRIEDLAND, ARTS WRITER Focus on skill and technique can discourage art enthusiasts from actually creating their own works of art. When life is overwhelming or mental illness is consuming, it can prove necessary for relaxation or recovery, though. Art therapy is emerging as a practice available to anyone of any skill level to express themselves and communicate what may otherwise be difficult to say. Although uncomfortable at first, art therapy patients often grow to enjoy the creative process. Because the goal is not to create a masterpiece, art therapy provides a lowstress environment that can help manage emotions, aid in addiction recovery and elevate self-esteem. Art therapy is often used to treat patients with post-traumatic stress disorder. PTSD occurs after experiencing a one-time or ongoing traumatic event, such as a natural disaster or abuse. The publication Art Therapy: Journal of the American Art Therapy Association explored how different types of art therapy benefit PTSD patients.1 The study compared regular arts and crafts to art associated with traumatic incidents, known as traumafocused art. Results showed that those who used trauma-focused art had a greater reduction in PTSD symptoms than those who engaged in unfocused arts and crafts. The journal also featured a story about Rebekah Chilcote, an art therapist based in Ohio.2 Chilcote assisted children who developed PTSD after experiencing the 2004 Sri Lanka tsunami. The children used trauma-focused art therapy to express their feelings about the disaster. In the article, Chilcote says, “Art Therapy Shows Promise in Treatment of PTSD & Trauma.” Art Therapy. Accessed September 20, 2016. http://www.arttherapyblog.com/ptsd. 2 Ibid. 1
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“the children’s artwork revealed traumatic tsunami experiences, the importance of family, loss of loved ones, and religious and cultural heritage.” The children’s use of art therapy helped Chilcote gain insight on their emotions and assist them in recovery. Art therapy also aids in eating disorder recovery. One eating disorder patient, Sarah Coggrave, contributed her story to Art Therapy Blog.3 She praises the use of art therapy, explaining that she incorporated it into her recovery process because “recovery is a complicated business, and sometimes images, objects and abstract verse were the only way I could make sense of what was going on in my head.” By drawing emaciated figures representative of herself dealing with the disorder, Coggrave documented where she had been and where she wanted to be after recovery. She created a book, Mariposa, which serves as a compilation of her art therapy work. Coggrave hopes the book will inspire others to embrace recovery. While art therapy is typically thought of as a practice only for those suffering from severe mental health disorders, it can be incorporated into everyday life for anyone. Today, adult coloring books and Pinterest DIYs promote mindfulness and creative expression for anyone interested in taking a break to reflect throughout their day. By encouraging self-reflection, relaxation and communication, self therapy can benefit a wide range of people. Not requiring any skill, art therapy is gradually evolving into a mainstream practice. Coggrave, Sarah. “Art Therapy & Eating Disorders.” Art Therapy. Accessed September 20, 2016. http://www. arttherapyblog.com/mental-health/eating-disordertherapy-art. 3
ARTTHERAPYBLOG.COM
You do not recognize it at first, but it creeps into your life so effortlessly, without warning. Sound like a disease? Not exactly, but close. Toxic friendships can emerge from someone who appears harmless but may truly be a rival force in your life. A toxic friend could be a childhood bestie who you met over a decade ago, or the person who you recently started attending study sessions with. This friendship doesn’t give you anything in return. In fact, you feel stressed out, drained and tired every time you think about it. You should fill your life with people who love and support you, not people who make you miserable. Look for some of these telltale signs of a rival friend, and reflect on why they may not deserve to be in your life.
Another sign of a rival friend is that they are put-down professionals. For example, although you think you look #flawless in your new, trendy outfit, you are received with a scoff and comments that you look ridiculous. The put-downs could be said to your face or in a sneakier way. Take, for example, the iconic, false concern we all know from Mean Girls’ Regina George. This could be rooted in jealousy or a desire to make you feel self- conscious. Simply put, they can never let you feel good about yourself.
are nowhere to be found. We all have demanding schedules, and good friends find time to spend with people they care about. Putting effort into a relationship that never gives anything back is not only exhausting, but totally unfair to you.
A final red flag that will signal you have a toxic friend is an expectation that you bring a better friendship to the table than what they provide. This hypocrisy can embody itself in many ways. While your friend is nowhere to be found when you need a shoulder to cry on, you are expected to answer their phone calls at all hours of the night. They expect you to be supportive and positive, although they are nothing but a discouraging and negative force in your life. You plan your whole weekend around hanging out with them, but they text you last minute informing you that they have plans with someone else. This awful double standard never works in your favor and BY BRI LERNER, CONTRIBUTING WRITER always finds new ways to SEAN GELANGANG AND AINAA NAJIHAH materialize itself in your relationship. Although PHOTOGRAPHED BY AKMAL HAKIM you may hope that this friend will change their ways, you should not get your hopes up.
RECOGNIZING A
One obvious sign of a toxic friend is someone who constantly wants to one-up you. You may tell them about your awful day, and suddenly their day becomes dramatically worse. You might excitedly start telling them some good news, maybe a new relationship or earning an “A” on a test, yet they find a way to bring up their much cooler, much better accomplishment; they can never let you have the spotlight. It seems like you are in constant competition with them, and definitely not in a healthy way that brings about growth. There is this never-ending contest that is impossible to win. Realistically, this relationship is more about validating this person and making their life seem more interesting, not about them caring for you as a friend.
TOXIC
FRIENDSHIP Toxic friends are also anything but sacrificial. Everything seems to take priority in their life before you, no matter the circumstances. Whenever you want to spend time with them, their busy schedules are too packed to fit you in. If it is not convenient for them, they are not making plans. You may find yourself needing their support, yet they
All in all, friendships should bring more joy and happiness than negativity and stress. Everyone deserves to have friends that support, inspire and love them. Watch out for these signs of a rival friend, and think critically about who is deserving of your friendship. At the end of the day, a rival disguised as a friend is still a rival.
FASHION VS. FEUD BY ASHLEY NG , FASHION EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
The fashion industry presents itself as a grandiose and seemingly impeccable world. The synchronized walk of models down the runway leaves us hypnotized. The creativity of designers shines through the elaborate details of their work. The unveiling of the latest fall collections evoke “ooh's” and “ahh's” from crowded storefronts. It seems as if the fashion world could hold nothing but beauty and good news… or could it? Shed away the glamour and you'll find that fashion is one of the most competitive industries out there. Apparel brands claim 29 spots among the world's most valuable and influential brands on the 2016 Forbes Global 2000. Some names worth mentioning include Christian Dior, Nike, Zara, Coach, Burberry and Hermes. If that doesn't impress you, hear this: Christian Dior's total assets come to a whopping $68 billion (in case that means anything to you). Amidst a pool of powerful companies, conflicts are bound to appear. Luckily, we have fashion lawyers to intervene. No, I did not just make that up; yes, it is a legitimate legal field. Fashion law is a branch of law that mainly deals with clothing and accessories, ranging anywhere from production to patenting to consumerism. According to the Fashion Law Institute, the first course in fashion law was taught by American lawyer Susan Scafidi who is known for her work in design protection and cultural appropriation. In 2010, Scafidi founded Fordham University's Fashion Law Institute with the support of Diane von Furstenberg and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Since then, the establishment has grown to have its own master's degree. The Fashion Law Institute serves to educate its law students in fashion financing, fashion modeling law, fashion licensing and sustainability, all of which face their own contemporary issues. Here's an overview of some of the most significant controversies in fashion: 42 | OCTOBER 2016
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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN V. YVES SAINT LAURENT (2011)
Everybody knows a pair of Christian Louboutin's when they see one. The brand's infamous "Chinese Red" sole has been associated with the brand for years. When Yves Saint Laurent revealed a red-soled heel in its 2011 resort collection, things got ugly. Louboutin sued YSL for impeding on their trademark soles, though, YSL justified it by citing that they had previously used red soles in 1970s. In the end, the judge ruled in favor of YSL, stating Louboutin's trademark on the color was "overly broad," as reported by The Fashion Law.
HERMES V. LVMH (2013)
The Fashion Law reports another case in which conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) requested an initial stake of 4.9 percent of family-owned Hermès in 2001-2002. Through the years, LVMH has slowly increased its ownership over Hermès which has generated a lot of hostility between the two groups. Since then, LVMH has acquired a total of 23.1 percent in holdings. In 2011, Hermès scored a win over LVMH, securing 50.2 percent of its equity.
THEFASHIONLAW.COM
RIME V. JEREMY SCOTT (2016)
Earlier this year, Moschino's creative director Jeremy Scott was sued by Brooklyn-based graffiti artist Joseph Tierney, better known as Rime, for stealing his "Vandal Eyes" artwork. This design made an appearance on the runway in Moschino's Autumn/ Winter 2015 collection modeled by Gigi Hadid, as well as a second appearance on Katy Perry and Jeremy Scott himself at last year's Met Gala “China: Through The Looking Glass.” In his motion, Scott argued his position, stating “As a matter of public policy and basic logic, it would make no sense to grant legal protection to work that is created entirely illegally," according to The Fashion Law. Though the case remains unsettled, it's already sparked ample debate regarding the interplay of fashion and art, specifically graffiti art. CELEBRITYCAMPAIGNS.COM
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MUSIC INDUSTRY RIVALRIES T H AT K E E P T H E M E D I A B U Z Z I N G BY JENN CHEN, ARTS WRITER Growing up in the digital age, the drama and rumors surrounding today’s celebrities and artists circulate quickly. As the mainstream media scrutinizes each rivalry, it is difficult to not find yourself invested in one side or the other. The following four rivalries rose to fame between some of the most recognizable celebrity figures in the 2000s.
KANYE VS. TAYLOR SWIFT
Standing on stage at the 2009 MTV Video Music Awards, about to launch into her acceptance speech for “Best Female Video,” Taylor Swift lost the spotlight to Kanye West.1 Taking the microphone, West said, “Imma let you finish, but Beyonce had one of the best music videos of all time.” After many Moonmen and iconic albums later, it appeared that T-Swift and Yeezy overcame the feud in 2015. West’s 2016 The Life of Pablo drew the public’s attention back to the tumultuous duo. The track “Famous” includes the infamous lyrics, “I feel like me and Taylor might still have sex/ I made that bitch famous.” While Swift expressed shock and disapproval of the lyrics, claiming to be unaware of them, Kim Kardashian West came to the defense of her husband in a Snapchat video that included a recording of Swift’s approval of the song’s lyrics prior to its release. Swift responded with a public note on Instagram, but it is unclear whether or not the two celebrities have resolved the conflict.
TAYLOR SWIFT VS. KATY PERRY
The tension between Katy Perry and Swift began in 2012, after Perry completed her Billboard Staff. “Music Feuds | Billboard.” www. billboard.com. 1
California Dreams world tour and before Swift began her Red world tour, with a few dancers from California Dreams receiving a place on Swift’s tour.2 Not long after, Perry invited the dancers on Swift’s tour to be a part of her Prism tour, meaning that they would need to leave the Red tour early. Swift responded to the problem by unfollowing the dancers on Twitter and completely removing them from her tour. Swift went on to create “Bad Blood” and disclosed that inspiration for it stemmed from a conflict with a well-known artist who “tried to hire a bunch of people out from under me.”3 It was not difficult to figure out that the enemy was Perry, and the hit single turned out to be the catalyst to a number of jabs over Twitter by Perry. Many of the tweets highlighted Swift’s history of feuds with other artists, including Kanye, Nicki Minaj and Calvin Harris.
EMINEM VS. MARIAH CAREY
MC and Slim Shady’s tumultuous relationship began just at the start of the new millennium. After allegedly dating for half a year, things took a turn for the worse; in 2002, Eminem started writing harsh lyrics aimed at Carey like, “What are you trying to be? My new wife? / What, you Mariah?” from his song “Superman.”4 Although the renowned diva first denied the rumors of romance, in 2003 she brought a dancer with a blonde wig and a Detroit Pistons jersey on stage - meant “20 Pop Music Feuds | IHeartRadio.” IHeartRadio. news.iheart.com. 3 Gordon, Naomi. “Katy Perry vs Taylor Swift: A Timeline of Their Reported Feud.” Digital Spy. 2016. digitalspy.com. 4 Larry King Now. “Eminem Vs. Nick Cannon: Round 2.” Ora TV. ora.tv. 2
to imitate Eminem. The two continued exchanging words through their music until Carey released her music video for “Obsessed,” in 2009, which includes her dressed as Eminem.1 The rapper responded with “The Warning,” whose lyrics that directly insulted Carey back. While there was no public resolution of the feud, they stopped providing obvious references to it in their music after the two songs.
JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE VS. BRITNEY SPEARS
It seemed like a perfect match when the two ex-Mickey Mouse Clubhouse kids and ‘90s teen idols started dating in 1999-who could forget the classic denimon-denim outing of 2001?5 When they broke up three years later, the majority of tabloids sided with Timberlake. While he rose to fame over the next few years, Spears stumbled, with an unfortunate public breakdown in 2007 that included shaving her head, losing custody of her kids and a messy divorce.6 Looking back, many accuse Timberlake of using the breakup to his advantage by playing up how much Spears hurt him in songs like “Cry Me a River.” After the release of her ninth album, “Glory,” earlier this month, it is clear that Spears has made a comeback. Meanwhile, Timberlake is still riding the charts with songs like “Can’t Stop the Feeling.” Yahr, Emily. “When Did the World Turn against Justin Timberlake and Embrace Britney Spears?” Washington Post. washingtonpost.com. 6 Doyle, Sady. “The Britney Spears Comeback Narrative Is All about Saddling Women with Impossible Expectations.” Quartz. 2016. qz.com. 5
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HOLISTIC LIFE FOUNDATION
Mastery through Meditation BY AMELIA FAIST, ARTS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT While meditation’s power to decrease stress, improve concentration and increase general happiness should serve as strong reasons to make time for it during your daily routine, it is often neglected in order to keep up with a busy schedule.1 Robert W. Coleman Elementary School is using these benefits to its advantage.2 Usually, to address disciplinary problems, students were put in detention rooms, watching the minutes tick by on the classroom clock, disappointed they were caught rather than reflecting on their poor behavior. This system of punishment does little to improve behavior, yet it is the standardized response across the country. Dealing with high detention and suspension rates due to frequent behavioral problems in the Baltimore school, administrators decided to try something different. The elementary school broke from the standard and reformed how it enacts discipline. Rather than shutting students in rooms with no resources available for self Holmes, Lindsay. “8 Ways Meditation Can Improve Your Life.” The Huffington Post. huffingtonpost.com. 1
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improvement, it switched to meditation, enabling students to actively work on changing their behavior.Filled with pillows, lamps and staff encouraging students to talk about why they misbehaved and how to solve the issues, the Mindful Moment Room is a comfortable environment for students to re-focus. The students reap benefits not only behaviorally, but academically and socially as well. The results of the switch are impressive. Suspension rates dropped to zero last school year and student attention levels notably improved. Although this is the first time meditation has been substituted for detention in an American public school, a few organizations recognized the benefits of meditation and mindfulness in the school setting a while ago.3 The Mindfulness in Schools Project trains teachers in the United Kingdom to help students achieve mindfulness at no cost to the school, with Mindful Schools paralleling Gaines, James. “This School Replaced Detention with Meditation. The Results Are Stunning.” Upworthy. 2016. upworthy.com. 3 “About Us - Mindfulness In Schools.” Mindfulness In Schools. mindfulnessinschools.org. 2
that effort in the US.5 The Holistic Life Foundation, based in Baltimore, partnered with Robert W. Coleman Elementary to enable the transition and offers several training programs for staff and students looking to make a similar switch.5 While every school could benefit from introducing meditation to its students, Milwaukee Public School district’s high suspension rates mean that the switch could make a substantial difference for its students. In the 2014-2015 district report card, 10.6 percent of all students were suspended at least once throughout the school year.6 The average is far above the national average of 3.6 percent. It is evident in the Baltimore school’s success that meditation paves a more direct path to student success and behavioral reform. The notable benefits it provides for students, schools and communities make the switch worth it. “Mindful Schools | Mindfulness for Your School, Teachers, Students.” Mindful Schools. mindfulschools.org. 5 “EMPOWERING COMMUNITIES.” Holistic Life Foundation. hlfinc.org. 6 “Wisconsin District and School Performance Reports.” Wisconsin District and School Performance Reports. apps2.dpi.wi.gov. 4
H & M
C O L L A B O R AT I O N S :
T H E
B E S T
A N D
W O R S T
BY CLARKE SMITH, FASHION WRITER
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA POPSUGAR.COM
If you’re a fashion lover, chances are you’re usually a fan of H&M’s designer collaborations. Despite the lines that still wrap around the store for these collection releases, it gives people like us (aka poor college students) a better chance at snagging a piece from a highend brand. Although collaboration prices are slightly higher than they are for basic H&M pieces, they’re still reasonable. Over the years, the Swedish retailer has done collaborations with numerous designers and fashion houses like Balmain, Alexander Wang and Versace. The lust for snagging even just one piece from one of their collections continues to grow. As their collaborations have become more popular, H&M has taken pride in their work and new collections, realizing they’re gaining more recognition each year. What I didn’t know, however, was how long H&M has been going these collabs. They date all the way back to 2004 when H&M released their first designer collaboration with a line with Chanel and Fendi’s creative directorturned-icon, Karl Lagerfeld. In 2004, most of us were in elementary school, so unless you were that advanced in the fashion-sphere, you didn’t even realize it was happening. Since then, H&M has done a collaboration collection each year, and creatively willing, up to three in one year. However, “high end” doesn’t always assume greatness. (Remember, money can’t buy you style guys). Some collections were better than others. Designers are there to create a line that embodies their brand, but at a lesser value. Each collection is different, supposedly a perfect embodiment of what we think when we hear their names, but of course, we have to compare. Below is a list of the best and worst of the collaboration collections along with a track record of their campaigns since 2004. What’s your favorite?
2004: KARL LAGERFELD 2005: STELLA MCCARTNEY 2006: VIKTOR & ROLF 2007: ROBERTO CAVALLI 2008: COMME DES GARCON 2009: MATHEW WILLIAMSON, JIMMY CHOO 2010: LANVIN 2011: VERSACE 2012: VERSACE, MARNI, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 2013: ISABEL MARANT 2014: ALEXANDER WANG 2015: BALMAIN 2016: KENZO
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ROBERTO CAVALLI WWW.NYDAILYNEWS.COM
BEST:
COMME DES GARÇON
CDG may not be the most recognizable, yet when you see a piece by them, you know exactly why it’s by them. The unique Japanese brand delivered a collection to H&M that definitely mirrored their unique aesthetic. A brand usually not for the average Joe was executed through a collection almost everyone could appreciate that let loose the risk-taker in all of us. KENZO HM.COM
COMME DES GARÇON MADMOIZELLE.COM
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Looking at the MMM x H&M collaboration honestly makes me question if we were even worthy of such a collection. The pieces were definitely not for the regular H&M customer waltzing in for a basic T-shirt, but through asymmetrical waist lines, structured outerwear and detailed knits, Margiela brought the runway to us gracefully and purposefully. In my opinion, it contained the most high fashion pieces and aesthetic we have ever gotten and quite possibly will ever receive from a designer through H&M. I definitely regret not appreciating it in 2012.
ALEXANDER WANG (previous page)
Being the first American designer to take his talents to H&M, he created a chic sportswear-inspired collection focused on functionality. Consisting of an all black, grey and white color palette, from the legging and crop top set, to the headwear, it was simple yet appealing and as chic as sports wear will get. Ad campaigns with Joan Smalls draped in A Wang head to toe complete with boxing gloves as well as a hockey stick, definitely made me consider a new sport uptake.
WORST: Of course, when critiquing the collections, you have to keep in mind the designer’s aesthetic as well as the fashion of that time period, but you can still form a solid opinion of the old collections with a 2016 mind. Worst may be a strong word to use, so of the 14 collaborations, these were the most “unimpressive,” we’ll say.
BALMAIN
With the fashion house being such a recognizable and loved look, many had high expectations for what Olivier Rousteing was going to bring to the H&M table for us little people. The collection definitely gave off a Balmain vibe, but failed at successfully delivering a high quality looking collection for less. Something about the satin and big gold buttons used screamed low budget.
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Reflecting on the Italian designer’s efforts to bring his designs to H&M, the collection was full of drapery, a lot of gold and animal print and was, in my opinion, simply unimpressive from a high-end designer. BALMAIN WWW.FORURBANWOMEN.COM
STELLA MCCARTNEY
(image not featured) Stella McCartney is famous for her willingness to collaborate with streetwear brands. However, looking back on her collaboration with H&M, which was said to have mirrored her main line, it almost seemed to be pieces we see in H&M everyday: plain separates that require an extreme amount of styling. When seeking a designer collection from your favorite cheap retailer, you expect difference and at least a bit of excitement. McCartney provided neither.
KENZO
All summer we’ve been teased with pictures of their next collaboration with fashion house Kenzo. The collection seems to be full of prints and color and has snagged celebrities like Chance The Rapper and supermodel Iman for the campaign. The glimpses seem a little “hit or miss” for me, but we’ll be able to judge the collection in its entirety when it releases next month in select stores and online at hm.com. OCTOBER 2016 | 47