PARIS FASHION WEEK Spring 2015 Trend Report
September 23rd-October 1st, 2014
Written by Alexa Carlson Fashion Writers: Victoria Fok Emma Leuman Marissa Monett Phebe Myers Edtited by: Paige Schultz, Fashion Editor Marissa Monett, Fashion Editorial Assistant
a letter from the editor After countless hours spent analyzing runway looks and deciphering the meaning behind each designer collection, Spring 2015 Fashion Month is officially over. And my, what a long month it has been. Starting out strong, New York and London unveiled an ode to consumerism, showcasing ensembles that appealed to the everyday style of the masses. Similarly in Milan, collections deviated from eccentric, avantgarde designs, highlighting the marketability of their looks by toning down the abstract elements of inspiration. This effort to reach the consumer was strategic, but in the process the romance of pure, unadulterated design was lost. Now, in reflecting on Paris Fashion Week, the words of Chanel’s founder, Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, come to mind. The notion that, “in order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different,” was originally meant as advice for personal style. Yet, the same idea applies to runway fashion, as innovation on the catwalk fosters styles that reside with us for a lifetime. Parisian labels like Dior, Louis Vuitton, Chloé, Valentino, and Chanel have demonstrated this notion since their originations, and this season
they continued to build upon their most noteworthy and infallible designs of the past, just like so many other Fashion Month designers did. Indeed, a question arises from this thought. Perhaps the novelty of Spring 2015 was not woven into the threads of garments. Maybe, instead, it was in the business strategies of designers. As I have mentioned in previous letters, people speak endlessly about the unapproachability of fashion, often criticizing it as a result of their lack of understanding. Thus, as the brilliant minds of fashion brands around the world compete to capture the attention, praise and wallets of the modern consumer, it’s difficult not to wonder: have our complaints finally been taken constructively? With that query in mind, the trends of the coming spring season are left to hibernate until the weather warms up, and designers are placed back at square one to decide what innovation they will present for the next string of fashion weeks. Until next time, Fashion Month.
Paige, Fashion Editor
September 23th DAY ONE By Marissa Monett As a test to the city’s fashion traditions, PFW commenced with a theme similar to the preceding weeks of Fashion Month this season. Instead of the remarkably put-together looks known to Parisian professionals, Day One was inspired by uniforms of the working class. Both Anthony Vaccarello and Jacquemus opted for a nautical approach, representing sailor-inspired ensembles in their spring collections. Vaccarello captured this aesthetic in an obvious manner through adopting classic elements of a sailor’s suit and reforming their structure. Plunging shirts detailed with subtle caped collars were suggestive of sailing gear, while asymmetrical skirts accessorized with vertically-hanging belts finished off the seaworthy ensemble. Jacquemus’ interpretation was slightly different, with bold and modern nautical stripes featured in primary colors. Additionally, oversized, white button-downs intertwined with bikinis projected a youthful, flirty appeal. Moving from the sea to the land, a few designers translated the utility jumpsuit into a fashionable piece of clothing. Sea optimized the look for casual wear with a shorter-hemline, ragged denim jumsuit. Anthony Vaccarello (photo from Style.com)
Top: Anthony Vaccarello, Jacquemus, Anthony Vaccarello; Bottom: Sea, Jacquemus (photos from Style.com)
September 24th DAY TWO
By Emma Leuman On Day Two of PFW, modernizing classics was an integral theme among collections as designers played with fresh takes on staple spring items. Spotted multiple times on the runway, long, sleeveless coats were a standout trend of the day. Perfect for lightweight layering in the early spring months, this piece provides just enough warmth without being overbearing. Balenciaga presented a perforated version, while Christophe Lemaire worked with more fluid, earth-toned silhouettes. Classic suit jackets were also reconstructed as lapels were given a surprising makeover. At Guy Laroche, the ends of lapels were angled upward, giving them a devilish look. At Balenciaga they were rounded at the edges and oversized, providing a softer, more feminine appeal. Similarly, Christophe Lemaire featured lapels that were exaggerated in size as well, but structured ends gave a masculine, menswear feel. Guy Laroche (photo from Style.com)
Top: Balenciaga; Bottom: Christophe Lemaire (photos from Style.com)
September 25th DAY THREE By Marissa Monett On Day Three of PFW, designers returned to the basic principles of design. With hues derived from the traditional color wheel and simplistic architecture driving dramatic entries, fashion houses proved the power of the essentials. Saturated hues followed basic color theories in many designers’ looks this week with reds, blues, yellows, greens and purples appearing bold and refreshingly classic. Roland Mouret applied analogous colors in his looks, making streamlined pieces youthful and energizing. Utilizing structure and fit, the what-could-be childish color pairings managed to withhold a strong image of authority and maturity. Balmain followed a similar approach as the designer amped up the colors with geometrical black grids and lines for a powerful appearance. As for minimalist construction, Lanvin outdid himself as he commenced his show with a floorlength, form-fitted, black dress that featured severe cutouts across the arm and chest. Other models donned monochromatic dresses void of any lackluster additions but filled with a sense of dominance. Balmain used his minimalistic designs of intense cutouts and stark purity to contour the body, illustrating simplicity’s authority. Balmain (photo from Style.com)
Top: Roland Mouret, Balmain, Roland Mouret; Bottom: Lanvin, Balmain, Lanvin (photos from Style.com)
September 26th DAY FOUR By Emma Leuman Whether it was the deconstruction of clothes or a laidback approach to dressing, the looks of Day Four were not concerned with refinement. Instead designers tried to emulate the “I don’t care” ideology currently trending in high fashion. At Loewe, dresses were presented in shambles. Seemingly acting as artistic impressions, pieces of fabrics in organic shapes were collaged into a pattern. Their lack of uniformity added to the effortless appeal and the textiles used were faintly reminiscent of animal skins, giving the ensembles a caveman vibe. At Yohji Yamamoto, deconstruction was taken a step further. Straps fell off of shoulders carelessly, the tops of dresses drooped as if they couldn’t be bothered to fit, and blazers were strewn haphazardly across models’ shoulders. Fit did not matter here, the illusion of being wild and carefree did. Finally, at A.F. Vandevorst textiles were given a wrinkle-treatment, adding unique twist to its relaxed, army utility feel. From head to toe, ensembles epitomized an aura of militaristic and utilitarian regime, asserting power through the structure and casualness through the texture. A.F. Vandevorst (photo from Style.com)
Top: Loewe; Bottom: A.F. Vandevorst, Yohji Yamamoto, A.F. Vandevorst (photos from Style.com)
September 27th DAY FIVE
By Alexa Carlson On Day Five, various designers refined overt cutouts into purposeful style elements for their looks. Mulger used curved cuts on shoulders and hips to add just the right amount of freedom and balance to crisp black and white separates. In contrast, Pedro Laurenco opted for stark, geometric shapes as triangles of skin at the midsection complemented straight boat-necks and belted high-waist bottoms. Another refined piece at PFW was the traditional women’s wear tuxedo. Baring chests and hugging hips, these suits were much more alluring than the classic takes on feminized formal menswear. Mugler showed sleek and slim versions of the design with chokers mimicking the bowtie’s purpose. More playful versions were shown at Jean Paul Gaultier in a beauty pageant themed show with models walking in sassy leotards followed by an array of single-sleeved suits with satin bralettes beneath. Mulger (photo from Style.com)
Top: Mulger; Bottom: Jean Paul Gaultier, Pedro Laurenco, Jean Paul Gaultier (photos from Style.com)
September 28th DAY SIX
By Alexa Carlson Designers on Day Six took a trip through past decades with distinct looks from the 70s and 80s. It all started at Chloé, whose suede jacket and shorts combos paired with gladiators and flowing peasant tops oozed nostalgia for the 70s. Moving into the next decade, Alessandra Rich presented a collection that presented an intriguing balance of a straightforward, 80s influence and modern tailoring of rich fabrics. Amongst the throw-back looks, shimmery fabrics also caught the audience’s attention. At John Galliano, sparkling maxis and pleated frocks were juxtaposed with an earthy aesthetic and camouflage leather leaf appliqués. Opting for a more glamorous approach, designer Martin Grant displayed glistening gold jumpsuits in his collection. Featuring simple sash belts and strappy black heels, these suits were fitting for 80s attire, but are perfectly stylish enough for contemporary style. Chloé (photo from Style.com)
Top: Martin Grant, John Galliano, Martin Grant; Bottom: Alessandra Rich, ChloĂŠ (photos from Style.com)
September 29th DAY SEVEN By Phebe Myers According to the Day Seven showings on the Parisian runways, the time for mixing patterns is over. Instead, fashion has focused on head-to-toe ensembles crafted with the same illustrious fabrics, playing with silhouettes to differentiate looks between designers. Opting to feature a bold print, Sacai deviated from spring’s traditional floral to show blue and white paisley outfits. These over-the-top yet gorgeous fabrics were accompanied by plastic chains in bright colors. Though it may seem strange to view these small accessories as being a significant trend, the flashy links were seen in a variety of places, most notably at Stella McCartney. To complement the oversized necklaces, loose knit tops and bottoms made of the same fabric presented a casual approach to the monotonous ensemble trend. Sacai and Stella McCartney also featured plaids in surprising hues. Stella McCartney’s were light and pastel-like in color with luscious silks and unique cuts creating an ultra-feminine look. In contrast, Sacai showed dark greens and purples in strong fabrics and silhouettes. Together, both designers presented a fresh take on this classic pattern, signaling a revival of the trend for the upcoming spring season. Stella McCartney (photo from Style.com)
Top: Sacai; Bottom: Stella McCartney (photos from Style.com)
September 30th DAY EIGHT By Phebe Myers Day Eight of PFW was a true ode to femininity as various designers projected different interpretations of women through their designs. Rainbows of colors were at the epicenter of Chanel and Valentino. At Chanel, the label’s traditional suit was featured in ultra-feminine pinks and purples, while the rainbow of colors in the rest of the show culminated in a gigantic protest for the finale. Models like Gisele Bundchen and Cara Delevigne walked with signs like “He for She” and “History is Herstory,” creating both fashionable and political statements. At Valentino full-spectrum hues appeared to provide inspiration as well, as models donning intricate lace stripes and all shades of pastel.
Valentino (photo from Style.com)
Valentino and Alexander McQueen also used daring floral and baroque patterns to display true feminine strength. Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen models wore leather masks on their faces with mixed leather and bright poppy floral print ensembles for a juxtaposition of softness and power. Valentino, known for their immensely detailed and ornate textures, printed large, ornate designs on sheer fabric for a fiercely feminine vibe.
Top: Chanel, Valentino, Chanel; Bottom: Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Valentino (photos from Style.com)
October 1st DAY NINE By Victoria Fok Paris Fashion Week ended with a bang as several well-known fashion houses displayed beautiful collections that incorporated 70s flair, myriad textures and menswear. Nicolas Ghesquièr of Louis Vuitton took inspiration from the 70s with a line of varying miniskirt and sequin tunic ensembles. Additionally, Ghesquier embraced the more bohemian vibe of the 70s by showing short, loose-fitted tunics with laceembroidered details, finishing his homage to the decade with suede patchwork boots and bags. Texture was essential to the Louis Vuitton show, as the collection was emblazoned with embroidery, shimmer and ruffles. Yet it was also at play at Moncler Gamme Rouge and Miu Miu. Giambattista Valli of Moncler Gamme Rouge played with lace, feathers, rich palettes, and fabric sewed with metallic thread. Valli also worked with short hemlines and sporty silhouettes to create a collection with an air of athletic-inspired glamour. Finally at Miu Miu ruffles, suede and lace applique were the textiles of choice, juxtaposing the various fabrics with midriffbaring tops and pencil skirts. Louis Vuitton (photo from Style.com)
Top: Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton; Bottom: Moncler Gamme Rouge (photos from Style.com)
MODA