Raw: November 2021 Issue

PICTURED BELOW

Amaya Gatling and Isaac Westberg photographed by Hunter Kiehl, Staff Photographer

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Gabrielle Gronewold

DEPUTY EDITOR

Arella Warren

ART DIRECTOR

Annika Ide

ARTS CURATOR

Emma Gray

PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR

Audrey O’Neill

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Sam Starks

FASHION DIRECTOR

Corbin Woessner

FASHION EDITOR

Manon Bushong

LIFESTYLE EDITOR

Mason Braasch

CULTURE EDITOR

Rachel Hale

ARTS EDITOR

Kora Quinn

ON THE COVER

Amaya Gatling photo graphed by Hunter Kiehl, Staff Photographer

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Olivia Peters

PR AND OUTREACH DIRECTOR

Emily Fleming

ONLINE EDITOR

Jessica Katz

NEW MEMBERS DIRECTOR

Maya Greenberg

PROGRAMMING AND SPECIAL EVENTS COORDINATOR

Madeleine Olson

DIVERSITY AND INCLUSION CO-DIRECTORS

Abbey Perkins Sonakshi Garr

MAKEUP DIRECTOR

Riley August

VIDEOGRAPHY DIRECTOR

Madelyn Vilker

WEBSITE MANAGER

Kara Conrad

MODA IS PRODUCED WITH SUPPORT FROM THE WISCONSIN UNION AND WISCONSIN UNION DIRECTORATE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE.

WRITERS

Laine Bottemiller • Mason Braasch • Manon Bushong

• Abby Cattapan • Sam Downey • Emily Fleming • Ashley Glass • Emma Goshin

• Maya Greenberg • Gabrielle Gronewold • Rachel Hale

• Elizabeth Karnowski • Mi Chuinda Levy • Shannon McManus • Clara Padgham • Kora Quinn • Jamie Randall • Braden Ross • Arella Warren • Honor Williams

ART

Riley August • Mac Gale • Emma Gray • Annika Ide • Alexa Kantor • Kate Madigan

• Audrey O'Neill • Jessica Tenenbaum • Arella Warren

• Haley Wolff

PHOTOGRAPHY

Seth DeGier • Hannah Huber

• Molly Jacobs • Anna Janke • Hunter Kiehl • Luc Marchessault • Audrey O'Neill

• Bela Orzechowski • Jessica Tenenbaum

MODELS

Mason Braasch • Amalia Cabigas • Sophia Carel • Abby Cattapan • Rachael Cole • Ben Dickmeyer • Nathaniel Dominguez • Amaya Gatling • Ashley Glass

• Christopher Hastings • Bobby Joehnk • Emily KrinerWoodworth • Kate Madigan

• Bela Orzechowski • Clara Padgham • Ava Padilla • Keegan Schlosser • Isaac Westberg

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FASHION

10

Bringing Back Basics

November Trend Report

26

When Denim gives a Pop

The most iconic denim moments in pop culture

32

The American Uniform

How the iconic Levi's jeans have persisted over time

LIFESTYLE

08

Returning to our Roots

Land-based healing for mindful living

16

Beauty in Boudoir

Pose for this new boundary pushing act of self care

39

The Dark Side of Your Light Washes

The environmental impacts of jean production—and how we can stop it

27

In My Own Skin

My breakup letter to makeup

28

What Defines You?

The important role hobbies play in self-identity and confidence

30 Empowered to the Core

Weightliging builds your body and your brain

31 The Abolition of the Pill

Why are more women deciding to go off birth control?

36

Lifestyle's Raw Recipes

Five dishes to try this month

49 Opening Up

How to have tough conversations with your partner

CULTURE ARTS

12

The Cultural Iconicness of Coca-Cola

Coca-Cola's recognized brand image and unrec ogized historic faults

18 Scoping Out the Zine Scene

Self-publishing allows authentic, unfiltered narratives to be shared

48 Natural Sounds in Classical Music

A discussion with a student percussionist and composer

52 Just Mercy: A Story of Justice and Redemption

More than a modern-day Atticus Finch

15

The Speed of Food

How the Slow Food movement is putting an accessible spin on fast food

40

The BBL Effect: Where leftist feminism went too far

The pitfalls of fourth wave feminism and plastic surgery

47

The Former is Female

The suppression of female scientific contributions

51 Hard to Swallow

Eating disorders don’t discriminate by gender, neither should eating disorder diagnosis

FEATURED

20 Homegrown

42 Foundation

Classic & Undone

Gabrielle Gronewold, Editor in Chief, photographed by Seth DeGier, Assistant Photography Director

Dear readers,

Welcome to Raw. Moda’s Art Director, Annika Ide—inspired by neutral and earthy tones—first sparked this concept and our team built it into a fresh and deep look into real topics and real people. With two thematic pillars of raw denim and authenticity, Raw provides a classic, undone experience.

Denim is a classic wardrobe staple. Moda’s Fashion Edi tor, Manon Bushong, shares in her piece, “The Dark Side of your Light Washes,” that she would consider it “presumably quite rare to meet a soul in today’s society without several pairs of jeans in their closet.” The popularity of denim is quite astounding, but with a culture of mass consumerism, understanding where your jeans come from is important. Bushong sheds light on how bad denim production can be for the environment—something you should consider the next time you’re looking for brand new jeans.

Like denim production, food insecurity is an ever-growing, real global issue, including among our own campus commu nity. Braden Ross’s piece, “The Speed of Food,” gives a look into the slow food movement, which focuses on a sustain able and affordable way of eating and promotes traditional, regional, local and healthy ingredients. Efforts from our own campus student organization, Slow Food UW, counteract the growth of fast food corporations which promotes a fastpaced culture and unhealthy options.

Another student organization on campus, F.H. King, harvests and distributes fresh produce throughout the UW campus in its mission to connect people with land and food. The Creative Editorial shoot, directed by Sam Starks, showcases

the F.H. King team and encourages readers to consider how interconnected their lives are with the land. Our raw rela tionships with food are infused into our relationships with the world and with ourselves, making it an incredibly sacred resource—evident in the work done by both Slow Food UW and F.H. King.

The authentic relationship we have with ourselves is a timeless and lasting part of our lives—one which at times requires change. Lifestyle Editor, Mason Braasch, used Raw to share her experience of “breaking up” with make up. At one time, wearing makeup was true to Braasch’s daily life, but she made the choice to shed the ritual, ulti mately stepping into a role that feels more authentic for her. Sometimes embracing authenticity looks like doing something you’ve never done before. This is evident in Mi Chuinda Levy “Beauty in Boudoir,” which gives readers a new, boundary-pushing form of self-care, one that allows you to intimately express yourself.

Expressing yourself is just what Raw is about. Through this issue, the Moda team took undone, stripped-down looks at the things they are passionate about, from closet staples to social issues, to personal experiences—all the while taking authenticity to a new level.

Warmly, GABRIELLE GRONEWOLD EDITOR IN CHIEF

Returning to our Roots

LAND-BASED HEALING FOR MINDFUL LIVING Writing and graphic by Arella Warren, Deputy Editor

Formany of us, the Digital Age is all we know. Yet, research suggests that the urbanization of the mid-20th century has caused us to move quicker than our evolutionary biology intended.1 As we’ve submerged ourselves in the technological landscape, we’ve neglected to nurture our relationship with the traditional one.

When Europeans first came to the West, they were fu eled by dreams of expansion. Inidgenous peoples looked at the land as something to live alongside, but colonists looked at it as something to be con quered. This was furthered by the spread of panentheistic religions such as Christianity, entitling Western society to commodify and exploit the nat ural world—a mindset that has driven us far from our ancestral, hunter-gatherer roots.2

For those of us looking to recon nect with those roots, there is a potent solution that lies in our lifestyle habits and mentality: Land-based healing.

Land-based healing originates with Northern Indigenous cul ture, which believes in the cen trality of Spirit in all things, positioning wellness as a conver sation with the elements.3 As the Thunderbird Partnership Foun dation describes, “A commonly held belief is the interconnect edness of all life, which includes human persons and all Creation (animals, plants, rocks, visible and unseen forces of nature, the universe) that coexist in balance, harmony, respect and care.”4 On this view, wellness is not only about personal growth, but con necting with our surroundings to

1. Arash Javanbakht, “To feel happier, we have to resolve to the life we evolved to live,” The Conversation, Jan. 2, 2019.

2. Charlie Flores, “The disconnection between humans and nature,” Center for Humans & Nature, May 30, 2019.

3. Ibid.

4. “Land for Healing,” Thunderbird Part nership Foundation, 2018.

sustain the health of the greater community and land.

Every piece of land holds a story, and we can start this healing pro cess by learning more about the stories close to our home. Dane County occupies the ancestral home of the Ho-Chunk Nation, who originally named this land Teejop (Dejope), meaning Four Lakes. However, the Ho-Chunk tribes were forcibly removed from their territory in 1832.5 In recog nizing the historical significance of the land we live and work on, as well as the suffering that led to its acquisition, we can take steps to remedy our ignorance and heal collective traumas.

Another aspect of Land-based healing is living locally to pro mote identity and community development.6 One way to do this is by familiarizing ourselves with our landscape’s native foods and wildlife. Traditional Wisconsin foods include a va riety of berries, fish, maple syr up, potatoes, wild rice, venison and—what is often called “The Three Sisters”—corn, beans and squash.7 Some great ways to eat locally include shopping at farm er’s markets or signing up for a Community Supported Agricul ture program. CSAs allow people to purchase food directly from a farmer by purchasing season al shares—you can find more information on Madison-based programs at the FairShare CSA Coalition website.8 By living and working within our communities, we promote better social, eco nomic and environmental feed back loops.

Studies on happiness find that the greatest sources of joy come from Nature, family and commu nity-based living—identifying a

5. “Land Acknowledgement,” University of Wisconsin-Madison, accessed Oct. 2021

6 “Land for Healing,” Thunderbird Partnership Foundation, 2018.

7. “Traditional Foods in Wisconsin,” Wis consin Department of Public Instruction, accessed Oct. 2021.

8. “About,” FairShare CSA Coalition, 2019.

profound connection between human wellness and spending time in the natural environment.9 While we derive short-term pleasures from wealth and ma terial possessions, humans are wired to live in Nature. Spend ing time outdoors is not only central to Land-based healing, but proven to boost our mental health and wellbeing.10

One can never go wrong with an afternoon walk, but there are other ways we can incorporate nature into our lives in a more ex citing way on an everyday basis. Some fun ideas include ditching the gym for an outdoor exercise at home, picking up seeds and planting native flowers (a great way to attract butterflies and honeybees!) and spending time decorating a garden, which is also a great way to build a per sonal, outdoor haven.

For those of us who like to draw or write, nature offers an endless supply of inspiration. Even if you don’t identify as creative, spend ing a few minutes outdoors writ ing in a journal, reflecting on your surroundings, breathing deeply and tuning in are fantastic ways to release stressors and ground yourself in the present moment.

Many of the things we can do to make ourselves feel happier and more revived on a daily basis involve turning to the land—in fact, our bodies are still adapt ed to the hunter-gatherer way of life.11 Today, we’ve become trapped in the holdings of own ership and material possessions, but to live mindfully and create a more harmonious global com munity, we need to start looking for purpose in the interconnect edness of natural life. ■

9. Mark Waghorn, “Happiness comes from family, community, nature,” Study Finds, March 8, 2021.

10. Ibid.

11. Daniel E. Lieberman, “We Still Have the Bodies of Hunter-Gatherers,” The New York Times, May 16, 2011.

BRINGING BACK

BASICS

MODA'S NOVEMBER TREND REPORT

Written by Emily Fleming, PR & Outreach Director

As today’s rate of trend turnover seems more rapid than ever, we may find ourselves overlooking the importance of investing in basics. Yet good quality, well-fitting staples will never go out of style. Oftentimes finding myself gravitating towards my favorite white tee for the third day in a row, I have begun to realize how many different outfits I can cre ate from that one perfect piece as a base. I have adopted a newfound appreciation for the most simple wardrobe staples, and urge everyone to do the same. See below for the best basics to stock up on this month, and how to style them for a fresh, minimalist look.

Classic white tee

Uniqlo - $15

There’s a reason why the classic white tee has never gone out of style: it’s effortless, easy and can be worn with nearly anything. Try styling a crisp white tee with a pair of light wash denim jeans, a blazer thrown over your shoulder and a pair of white loafers. This look will save you significant time in the morn ing, yet the ease of styling this ba sic only comes once you have your perfect fit. Finding that one style that works for you can be more difficult than you think. It is im portant to consider the cut, length, fit and fabric when choosing your tee. Uniqlo offers a relaxed silhou ette made of 100% sturdy cotton, a tee that could easily be your new go-to. You can also check out Goodfair for a sustainable yet reasonably priced option.

Light wash denim

Levi’s - $90

Shopping for jeans can be exhaust ing—so let us make it easy on you. Levi’s offers many high-quality staples that are fan favorites, like the pair featured above. You can dress a pair of light wash jeans down by going for a pair with rips and a plain tee on top, or you can opt for a classic straight-leg silhou ette paired with a sweater or blazer. You can also thrift denim easily, and don’t be afraid to look in the men’s section for a looser fit. Everlane also has relaxed-fit boyfriend jeans that are cozy enough for those days when you really just want to wear leggings.

Leather Puffer Jacket

Abercrombie - $150

From shackets to puffers, leather in some form is always mixed into a strong minimalists’ wardrobe. Try a cropped cut in a neutral color to create a clas sic winter look, paired with light wash denim jeans. You could also incorporate this piece into athleisure, thrown over a white workout set and topped off with matching beige sneakers and a baseball cap.

White bralette

Aerie - $24

White bralettes are versatile and beautiful, and investing in a high-quality piece can change your wardrobe for the better. While they are mainly worn as undergarments—perhaps under a white t-shirt and light wash jeans—some can also be worn as a top. Try out a white bralette with only a blazer buttoned on top to create a subtly sexy outfit, or add a seethrough or off-the-shoulder t-shirt to bring a little spice to a casual look. Aerie offers affordable options that are size in clusive and high quality. You could also invest in a sustainable option, such as Cosabella’s Allure or Savona bralettes. Sneakers

Madewell - $98

We all know and love the classic Air Force 1 because white sneakers go with just about anything. However, adding in a pop of color or mix of beige can give something unique to your outfit. Try out different Nike styles, Vejas or Converse. If you’re looking for a high-quali ty, sustainable, recycled leather pair of sneakers, my personal favorite is the Madewell Kickoff trainer.

Black Sunglasses

Quay - $65

There truly is nothing like a big pair of sun glasses to complete your outfit. Black sun glasses are timeless, and the only strain when it comes to finding your perfect pair is choosing what shape fits your face the best. In my opinion, the big ger the better—but thin, square-framed sunglasses have become all the rage since last year. For this month, I am opting for a larger square frame, which is still trendy but slightly unique.

Dainty gold jewelry

Soko - $98

Dainty gold jewelry is a minimalist fashion lover’s best friend. Whether it be a thin gold necklace or tiny gold hoops, it is the perfect addition to a clean, fresh look. Many new, sustainable jewelry brands are emerging this year, and I’ve been taking notes. Soko, a jewelry brand based in San Francisco and Kenya, focuses on uplifting artisan entrepreneurs and Kenyan artists to expand their business es. Beyond their offerings of stunning jewelry, it is all made of sustainably sourced materials and has a strong set of values and purpose.

Neutral blazer

Club Monaco - $159

Blazers are a staple that will never go out of style, and its popularity has re-emerged in a big way this year. No longer reserved for the office, blazers can be dressed down for class and dressed up for a night out (Eno Vino, anyone?). Try opting for an oversized fit that can work as a dress with black tights and tall black boots, or over a plain t-shirt and jeans for a casual-chic look. Try out a crisp white blazer from Club Monaco, or add something fun with a plaid or striped print, like the Winston blazer from Reformation.

■

THE CULTURAL ICONICNESS OF

COCA-COLA

COCA-COLA'S RECOGNIZED BRAND IMAGE AND UNRECO GIZED HISTORIC FAULTS

Written by Gabrielle Gronewold, Editor in Chief Photographed by Seth DeGier, Assistant Photography Director

Modeled by Sophia Carel

Makeup by Riley August, Makeup Director

Mybrother Myles has a deep admiration of Coca-Cola. So much so that he has a CocaCola memorabilia collection and gets a Coca-Cola ornament each Christmas. I, on the other hand, get a shoe ornament each year. Myles has accumulated so many of these ornaments that each year my mom decorates an entire Christmas tree in red and white, sporting his collection.

Like my brother, Coca-Cola as its own entity is iconic, and routinely decorat ing a Christmas tree inspired by the brand isn’t that culturally odd. In fact, Coca-Cola has become nearly synony mous with Christmas from a branding standpoint across the globe.

For decades, Coca-Cola has used the Holiday season and specific Christmas traditions as a branding strategy. Ev ery year around November, we begin to see polar bears, Santa Claus and the Coca-Cola Christmas truck all in Coke’s advertising. The advertising nerd in me pinpoints this as a genius platform and execution that has created a legacy for the brand image, while the history nerd in me pinpoints this as a cultural force.

By no means did Coca-Cola invent Santa Claus, but it did create the im age of Santa Claus we recognize to day. In 1931, Coca-Cola commissioned Haddon Sundblom to paint Santa for its Christmas advertisements. Taking inspiration from the story of “‘Twas the Night Before Christmas,” Sundblom featured a big white beard and belly, rosy cheeks, twinkling eyes and a joy ful grin. The features depicted in this painting eventually garnered a conno tation of the cultural image of Santa— and soon the most recognized version of this jolly old fellow became one with a cheeky grin and rosy cheeks.1

Long before Sundblom’s Santa depic tions, however, came the origination of Coca-Cola, which is a bit, well, loopier.

On May 8, 1886, Atlantic pharmacist John S. Pemberton created the first Coca-Cola drink, duped the “The Tem perance Drink.” The alcohol-free bev erage was intended to be a tonic for common ailments, using caffeine-rich extracts of the kola nut and coca leaf, otherwise used in cocaine—the co caine was later eliminated from the formula in 1903.2 And that is now your new party fun fact!

Between selling his syrup to local soda fountains and advertising, Pemberton

¹ Coca Cola, “Five Things You Never Knew About Santa Claus and Coca-Cola,” Coca Cola.

² The Editors of Britannica. “The Coca-Cola Histo ry,” Britannica.

found wild success. In 1891, Asa Griggs Chandler became owner of the compa ny and trademarked the brand in 1893. Under Chandler, sales rose from 9,000 gallons of syrup in 1890 to 370,877 in 1900.3 Symbolizing the force of Co ca-Cola as a business, brand and later conglomerate. Today, it stands as one of America’s biggest brands and has a global recognition that is unmatched.

On average, there are 1.9 billion serv ings of Coca-Cola bought each day.4 This can be accredited to their adver tising legacy. The company has em ployed a plethora of successful cam paigns that each generation can claim and recall: From the 1971 “Hilltop” cam paign featuring a group of free-loving folks singing The New Seeker’s “I’d Like to Teach the World to Sing” on a hill;5 to the 2010 “Happiness Machine,” showing a single Coke vending ma chine which offers an abundance of gifts and drinks to passersby inspiring cheer;6 to the 2012 “Polar Bowl” ad ³ Ibid.

⁴ Coca-Cola, “Coca-Cola System,” Coca-Cola. ⁵ Coca-Cola, “Hilltop, I’d like the world to buy a Coke,” 1971, YouTube.

⁶ Coca-Cola, “Coca-Cola Happiness Machine,”

which played during the Super Bowl, showing the famous Cola-Cola Polar Bears relieving game time viewership stress through a game of Coca-Co la catch.7 Through the evolution and ethical progress within the advertis ing industry, Coca-Cola has remained a powerful force in producing notable and recognizable ads—all of which fall under a brand platform of spreading happiness and togetherness through the beverage.

Part of this platform can be seen through the efforts of the Coca-Cola Foundation. Originating in 1984, the foundation has awarded over $1.2 bil lion to various community initiatives, in cluding recycling, women’s empower ment and youth development globally.8 The red thread that strings the brand together all comes back to a communal central theme of good feelings.

One campaign where these good feel ings really come to shine is the “Share a Coke” campaign. First starting down

January 12, 2010, YouTube.

⁷ Coca-Cola, “Catch,” February 3, 2012, YouTube. ⁸ Coca-Cola, “The Coca-Cola Foundation.”

under in 2011, the “Share a Coke” cam paign was intended to create a more personal relationship with consum ers and create shared experiences of happiness. The campaign took off and slowly spread across the world, allow ing everyone to share a Coke with the ones they love.9

During that time, more than 125,000 social media posts referenced the “Share a Coke” Campaign between June and July of 2014 and 12% of all online conversations around the brand were centered around it. Over 353,000 virtual bottles of coke have been shared via the campaign’s website.10 The “Share a Coke” campaign is one of the most successful brand campaigns in history—a crowning jewel other brands chase to mimic.

This ultimately begs the question: Who is sharing a Coke? When first created, Coca-Cola was considered an “intellec tual beverage among well-off whites” because they were the only ones who were allowed in segregated soda foun tains. When the drink became bottled, accessibility went up and anyone with a nickel could purchase a Coke. Soon, due to the cocaine in the beverage, middle-class white folks rallied against the ingredients and newspapers start ed to report on “negro cocaine fiends,”11 as if the ones suddenly turning against the drink hadn’t popularized it in the first place.

The true story behind the Coca-Cola formula change isn’t too far from mod ern conversations around the war on drugs and drug privilege. In fact, the elimination of cocaine from the drink came 11 years before the U.S. made co caine illegal, arguably pointing to the fact that the racism behind Coke’s in gredient of “coke” foreshadowed what was to come over the next century.

Next time you share a Coke, enjoy a Coke or even see the Coca-Cola bear this Holiday season, I urge you to really think about the brand for all it is worth. Well-recognized, historic brands do have histories that are often not sep arate from social issues. To be ethical consumers, we must acknowledge and learn from this while also looking into what these modern brands have changed for today.

■

⁹ Coca-Cola, “What was the ‘Share a Coke’ Cam paign,” Coca-Cola Australia.

10 Nathalie Tadena, “Coke’s Personalized Market ing Campaign Gains Online Buzz,” July 15, 2014, WSJ.

11 Grace Hale, “When Jim Crwo Drank Coke,” Jan uaray 28th, 2013, New York Times.

⁴

The Speed of Food

HOW THE SLOW FOOD MOVEMENT IS PUTTING AN ACCESSIBLE SPIN ON FAST FOOD

Written by Braden Ross, Culture Editorial Assistant Graphic by Kate Madigan, Staff Graphic Artist

In1948, two brothers opened a small burger joint in San Bernardino, California. Their vision was to create a restaurant that could serve a lot of food very quickly at low prices. They limited their menu to a few tried and true items, implemented self-service counters to eliminate the need for servers and made their burgers ahead of time so they’d be ready right when customers ordered them.1 Though they didn’t know it at the time, the brothers had created what would become the most iconic fast-food franchise in history: McDonald’s. Thus, fast food was born, becoming a $650 billion industry by 2019.2

Despite its popularity, the fast-food in dustry has faced significant backlash for its low standards and unhealthy options, often targeted toward low-in come areas due to their need for cheap prices and easy accessibility. As the fast food revolution spread across the world, so did the resistance.

In 1986, McDonald’s faced serious pushback when they opened a restau rant at the bottom of the iconic Span ish Steps in Rome. Many Romans saw the new franchise as an invasion of American “fast culture” and unhealthy habits.3 In Italy, political activist Carlo Petrini proposed an opposing vision for nutrition: Slow Food.

Created in direct contention with fast food, Slow Food was made with the goal of promoting traditional, region al cuisine and local, healthy ingredi ents. Globally, the Slow Food move ment works on projects to preserve biodiversity, advocate for sustainable food systems and reduce food waste, among other initiatives.4

¹ “McDonald’s History, Ray Kroc, & Facts,” Ency clopedia Britannica, accessed October 20, 2021

² Raju Kale and Roshan Deshmukh, “Fast Food Market Size, Share & Trend | Industry Research Report, 2027,” Allied Market Research, accessed October 20, 2021

³ Suzanne Zuppello, “Slow Food’s Elitism Only Fueled My Craving for McDonald’s,” Eater, Octo ber 18, 2018,

“Slow Food International,” Slow Food Interna

Over the years, the Slow Food move ment has gained global traction. It even reached UW’s campus in 2008 with the creation of Slow Food UW, a student organization aiming to pro mote sustainable, local food systems on campus.

ment has faced criticism for elitism and inaccessibility. However, Slow Food is working to change that. For Slow Food UW, this commitment to inclusivity in cludes a Pay it Forward option at their food services, in which customers can make donations that allow the group to provide free meals to anyone, no

On Monday nights, Slow Food UW holds Family Dinner Night, where they serve a $5-8 three-course meal to any one who wants it. With the goal of be ing as inclusive as possible, they also provide vegan and gluten-free options where they can. On Wednesdays, they hold a similar $5 lunch event called Cafe. Both events are held in the base ment of The Crossing on University Ave. Some recent dishes have includ ed butternut squash and veg gie pizza, pumpkin lentil falafel with sweet ta hini and sweet po tato black bean tacos with cilan tro lime sauce.

Due to its em phasis on local food, which tends to be more expen sive and harder for low-income communities to find, the move

tional, accessed October 22, 2021.

questions asked. They also organize South Madison programs that include cooking and gardening classes for the greater Madison community.

Though Mcdonald’s was instrumental in pioneering the fast food industry, movements like Slow Food provide a new lens to view food accessibility and health. Slow Food UW is taking import ant steps toward modernizing easy and healthy food, ensuring that people ev erywhere have access to a vi sion of food freedom. ■

Globally, the Slow Food movement works on projects to preserve biodiversity, advocate for sustainable food systems and reduce food waste, among other initiatives.

BEAUTY IN BOUDOIR

POSE FOR THIS NEW BOUNDARY-PUSHING ACT OF SELF-CARE

Written by Mi Chuinda Levy, Lifestyle Staff Writer

Photographed by Bela Orzechowski, Staff Photographer

Modeled by Emily Kriner-Woodworth

Makeup by Mi Chuinda Levy

Let’s

get raw for a second here: At the end of the day, when everyone and everything has gone away, what are you left with? That’s right, you are only left with yourself. This is one of the many

reasons why it is important to embrace yourself, imperfections and all. It’s time to be vulnerable. A great start to conquering such a feat is to strip down bare, celebrate your beauty and find your own sense of power. Having a boudoir photo shoot is the perfect way to do so!

Boudoir photography emphasizes romance and intimacy, often featuring sensual and erotic imagery. Boudoir photoshoots are often shot in intimate cloth ing like lingerie and take place in private settings like bedrooms. Some people get these pho tos done for their sig nificant others as a gift; however, boudoir offers a great opportunity for you to celebrate your self. Taking photos in which you feel confident and sexy is the newest act of self-care—a bou doir photo shoot can help you discover the beauty that is you and alive inside of you.

When boudoir photog raphy emerged in the roaring twenties, it was regarded as a strictly feminine artistry.1 For ¹ Marisa Leigh, “Where Did Boudoir Photography Come From?” Huffpost, Dec. 6, 2017.

tunately, stigmas surrounding boudoir have begun to fall away. Now, anyone can partake in this beautiful art, no matter your gender identity, sexuality or physique.

There is no perfect body, and as cheesy as it sounds, we are all perfectly imper fect. The art of boudoir photography allows for you to be vulnerable; not only in front of the camera but also with all of the notions you hold about your personal image and identity. Bou doir is about uplifting your raw, natural beauty and learning to accept all that you are. You are the whole package— you deserve to treat yourself as such.

Boudoir photoshoots are empower ing, but they can also be intimidating. One way to reduce the intimidation that sometimes surrounds boudoir is to take your own pictures. Boudoir photoshoots do not need to be done professionally! They can be done in the comfort of your bedroom with a photo

timer and tripod or with the help of a significant other or trusted friend.

To make a session even less daunting, and more intimate and rewarding, con sider writing a love letter detailing all the qualities you adore about yourself, ideals you would like to add into your life, mentalities and habits you want to leave behind, and a general reflec tion on where you have been in life and how far you have come to be here today—all while loving who you are as much as you possibly can.

While posing, think about all of the up lifting things written in the letter. As you gaze into the camera lens, recall all of these declarations of love. Envi sion yourself basking in your beauty and power in all of its glory.

Looking back at these beautiful, raw photos after the shoot, remember the vows you made to yourself—and most importantly, remember to proclaim, “Damn, I look good!” ■

Scoping Out the Zine Scene

SELF-PUBLISHING ALLOWS AUTHENTIC, UNFILTERED NARRATIVES TO BE SHARED

Written by Sam Downey, Arts Staff Writer Illustrated by Mac Gale, Staff Graphic Artist

Have you ever wandered to the back of a bookstore and found a shelf full of what looked like handmade pamphlets for sale? You might have been intrigued by the doodled cover art or the niche-sounding subject matter, but ultimately wandered away in pursuit of more familiar options. Next time, I recommend stopping to browse. These “pamphlets” are actually zines, a type of small, self-published magazine.

I encountered my first zine—pro nounced “zeen”—at a local art fair in my hometown as a child, and at the time, I remember thinking they were the most incredible thing. I even planned to make my own before I got distracted by the hustle and bustle of seventh-grade life. Years later, I still remember being impressed by their creativity and craftsmanship.

Zines have a handmade, personal touch to them that traditional me dia forms often lack. They can cover just about any subject, and provide a means for creators to share ideas that

may be underrepresented in main stream publications.1

Because they are handmade, zines are usually printed in small batches of less than 5,000 copies and are almost al ways in black and white to save money. They are bound simply by folding and stapling and are often decorated with drawings and ransom-note style let tering. Zines are usually circulated for free or at inexpensive prices, so profit is not a strong motivator in their pro duction. If anything, people who make zines often expect to lose money in the process, but this means that artists can share their art without worrying about marketability.2

Beyond that, traditional publish ing may require you to simplify your work, remove controversial or political statements and censor things such as strong language or nudity that may be central to the message of a piece. The lack of a rigorous editing process

¹ “Zine Collection,” University of WIsconsin-Madi son Libraries, accessed Oct. 2021.

² Robert Wood, “Is It Worth Publishing Your Writing in a Zine?” Standout Books, accessed Oct. 2021.

also makes zine publishing a great way for emerging writers and artists to get their work out there in a more concrete form than digital publication.

On the other hand, this opens up the possibility that errors will go over looked, and the lack of sensitivity read ers could mean problematic content slips through the cracks, even when the author or artist doesn’t intend to be offensive. Additionally, choosing to work with a publishing house often comes with more credibility, resources for professional binding and market ing—all things that zines usually lack.

For many creators, though, the tradeoff is worth it. The rarity of zines can inspire fan loyalty, as readers feel a sense of cultural street credit for know ing about and owning certain zines. The small-scale nature of zine publication can also mean readers care less about the lack of polish in exchange for the raw content they’re getting. Many zines, for example, focus on topics that are of little interest to the general public, such as niche art and music subgenres, or

that have historically been ignored or criminalized by the power structures of which publishing houses are a part, such as social justice movements.

The roots of the modern zine trace back to the “fanzines”—that is, zines made by fans of a given media or fran chise—of science fiction in the late 1930s and ‘40s. These grew in popular ity throughout the ‘60s: the first “Star Trek” zine, “Spockanalia,” eventually gained enough popularity to feature letters written in character from the cast members. Similar fanzines were influential in organizing the letter-writ ing campaign that got “Star Trek” re newed for a third season in 1968. Later, in the ‘70s, zines like “Punk,” “Slash” and “Sniffin’ Glue” rose in popularity within music-focused subcultures. The ‘90s even saw a progressive pushback to the male-dominated punk scene through the “Riot Grrrl” zine and femi nist movement of the same name.3

The possibilities offered by the socalled “very small press” excited many in the ‘90s. Mike Gunderloy, creator of the popular zine guide “Factsheet Five,” writes, “these people, the few thousand publishers and the few mil lion readers are the ones at the cutting edge of social change. . . A ground swell of publishers is appearing, peo ple who realize that people can get things done, without the help of the major organizations which we tend to assume run society.”4

Today, the niche that zines filled in the ‘90s have largely been replaced by the internet. Like zines, social media allows anyone to say anything at no cost, with ³ Chloe Arnold, “A Brief History of Zines,” Mental Floss, Nov. 19, 2016.

⁴ Mike Gunderloy, “Zines: Where the Action Is: The Very Small Press in America,” ZineWiki, accessed Oct. 2021.

the added bonus of potentially reach ing billions. On the downside, social media algorithms promote certain kinds of content at the expense of oth ers, often suppressing material that has to do with social justice or political movements—just think of the bizarre, censored way people spell things on TikTok to avoid getting flagged.5

Zines, both historically and to this day, are authentic in a way that very few forms of media can claim to be. The lack of censorship, whether im posed by publishers or by one’s own financial instincts, means that the final product is truly just art for art’s sake. Zine-makers trust that their ideas will connect with other people, even in their unrefined state—and maybe even because of it.

⁵ Abby Ohlheiser, “Welcome to TikTok’s Endless Cycle of Censorship and Mistakes,” MIT Technolo gy Review, July 13, 2021.

Though many zines are now at least partially online, physical copies con tinue to be made and circulated. You can find zines in indie bookstores such as A Room of One’s Own in Madison, Wisconsin, in collections like those of the Kohler Art Library and the Wiscon sin Historical Society, through digital archives such as the Milwaukee-based QZAP and elsewhere. The Madison Public Library also hosts an annual zine buying and making event called Madi son Print & Resist each summer, where you can browse locally-made exam ples and even try your hand at mak ing your own. Although I myself have never gone, I’m excited to go next year and finally fulfill my seventh-grade dream of making my very own zine. I hope to see you there! ■

Zines have a handmade, personal touch to them that traditional media forms often lack. They can cover just about any subject, and provide a means for creators to share ideas that may be underrepresented in mainstream publications.

HOMEGROWN

Directed by Samantha Starks, Creative Director Assisted by Cassidy Chemer and Nicole Escobia, Creative Team Contributors

Photographed by Audrey O'Neill, Photography Director and Bela Orzechowski, Staff Photographer

Modeled by F.H. King members: Ava Padilla, Farm Director, Christopher Hastings, Urban Agriculture Director, Ben Dickmeyer, Outreach Director, Keegan Schlosser, Programming Director and Bobby Joehnk, Finance Director

Special thanks to Members of F.H. King and Gwynne Tyksinski, Owner of Stillgoods

F.H. KING – Ava Padilla

“I’m a farm director for F.H.King. Myself [Ava] and my co-director (Jenny Zinniker!) make the season plans, start the seeds, prep the soil and care for each plant on the farm. All that we grow, we harvest and distribute to the campus community through our Harvest Hand-Outs. What is central to F.H.King’s mission is our goal of connecting people with land and food. The farm is a huge part of that—sharing the process of how to grow and care for plants is work I love. Every moment in a season—from early, still-cold spring to late fall—is a moment during which you can learn from the land and the people around you. As a whole, the organization provides a community for people to share knowledge and explore their interests in sustainable agriculture.”

ALGAE MASK – Ava Padilla

“This mask came into being through the FLOW project. Alongside fellow undergrad artists, I was paired with UW water researchers and tasked with creating a piece that communi cates the heart of their work. My researchers study algae and cyanobacteria: They’re these beautiful, odd organisms with brilliant microscopic structures. Algal and cyanobacterial morphology, the landscapes they inhabit and the researchers themselves are all inspira tions for this piece. I wanted to create something both inviting and austere. The mask is designed to mesh with the face of the wearer, fusing the interior and exterior gaze to the world of the beaded algae. The piece is entirely hand constructed with glass beads, thread and fabric. To wear it is to experience a glimpse of a world that largely goes unseen.”

When Denim gives a POP

ICONIC DENIM MOMENTS IN POP CULTURE

Written by Ashley Glass, Fashion Staff Writer

Whenever I watch an episode of “Friends,” I find myself having the urge to recreate Rachel Green’s organic ‘90s persona. Jennifer Aniston’s natural beauty along with her character’s emblematic denim looks represent timeless garment pieces through the decades. However, “Friends” only sheds a small glimpse

on denim’s true influence, as countless celebrities including Justin Timberlake, Britney Spears and Princess Diana have helped shape our understanding of denim as a timeless staple.

Airing in 1994, “Friends” envisions raw denim through a ‘90s point of view. By employing the ageless fit of den im into the fashion pieces of its main

female lead, Rachel Green, the show institutes the rise of denim overalls. As shown in season one, episode two, “The One With the Sonogram,” Rachel is sporting classic denim breeches with a white tank underneath.1 Even though overalls can be portrayed as manual work attire, Rachel shifts the laid-back look into a more desirable, fashionable one.

Television is not the only means of media swept into the movement of Wranglers, Levi’s and dungarees. In the 2001 American Music Awards, Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears gave the public one of the most icon ic red carpet couple looks. Repping a sweetheart neckline denim floor dress, accompanied by a petite denim purse, Spears complemented her at-thetime-boyfriend Timberlake’s head-totoe denim suit. The astonishing look inspired other celebrities’ future denim outfits, such as Katy Perry and Riff Raff at the 2014 MTV VMAs.2

The entirety of denim is centered around the rise of vintage. However, denim can also be a symbol of rega lia. Princess Diana did not only dress to impress—rather she used her clothing as a means of expressing herself. By doing so, her people saw her as downto-earth, approachable and honest. While giving a speech in 1997 in Ango la, for example, Princess Diana sported vintage denim jeans with an appropri ate black blazer.

One of my favorite Diana denim looks is from 1988, when she displayed the fash ion of upper-class English with straightlegged jeans tucked into tall brown boots, a blazer and a baseball cap.3 A princess in blue jeans and a baseball cap? Denim has a way of returning ev eryone to a fundamental state.

Jeans can emphasize the normality of anyone, whether it be a princess, music artist or actor. We can all cap ture the finery of royalty fashion, the styles of top-chart artists and the flair of our most beloved sitcom charac ters through a pair of classic, organic denim jeans. These iconic denim mo ments act as timeless muse for the classic raw look. ■

¹

Brenna Opelka, Chloe Pantazi, Susanna Heller, “Rachel Green’s 35 Best Outfits on ‘Friends’,” Insider, Feb. 2018.

² Julia, Hays, “Britney Spears and Justin Tim berlake’s Denim Date Happened 15 Years Ago Today,” Eonline, Jan. 2016.

³ Alice Newbold, “When Princess Diana Did Den im: These 15 Royal Looks Will Inspire You To Go Vintage Jeans Shopping,” Vogue, July 2020.

Graphic by Emma Gray, Arts Curator

IN MY OWN SKIN

MY BREAKUP LETTER TO MAKEUP Written and modeled by Mason Braasch, Lifestyle Editor Photographed by Molly Jacobs, Staff Photographer

Atthe beginning of this year, I ended a very long-term relationship. It was a hard breakup. After almost eight years together, it made me face my biggest insecurities, unlearn my bad habits and rethink my daily routine. Ultimately, though, it was for the best; through it, I have learned to love myself with all my flaws included. My breakup with makeup was tough, but it has changed my life for the better.

As someone who has struggled with acne for upwards of 10 years, my re lationship with makeup was extremely toxic. What began as a fun experiment turned into something that I depended on daily to feel like myself. Since I was 12-years-old, I have used makeup as a crutch for confidence, and have be come dependent on having a full face of foundation in order to feel beautiful when I step outside.

This year, I decided I wanted to break free from this toxic relationship. Al though I still wear makeup for special occasions like a night out with friends,

I made the decision that the daily wear of makeup was not worth the time, en ergy or damage to my self-esteem.

Our first week apart was hard. I felt na ked when I walked outside. I could no longer hide behind the perfect shade of foundation, and without a layer of bronzer and blush, my pale skin some how felt even paler. I was sure that everyone was looking at me, overly observant about the breakouts on my chin and the acne scars on my cheeks.

As time passed, however, I noticed a shift in the way that I felt about myself. Contrary to what I had believed for years, not wearing makeup every day actually made me feel more confident. The breakouts that used to consume me became insignificant, and rather than try to obsessively cover every scar and dark spot, I learned to see them as reminders of how far I have come in my journey to accepting myself. When I let go of the idea that every imperfection needed to be shielded from the world, I learned to accept that skin is not meant to be perfect. Trying to make it

so is not only harmful to my skin, but to my self-confidence as well.

Breaking up with makeup not only improved my overall self-esteem but benefitted my skin as well. As it turns out, stopping the regular wearing of makeup improved the very things that I was trying to cover up. My makeup breakup made my skin smoother, re duced the number of breakouts and helped my acne scars to start healing.

Breakups are never easy, especially when we are forced to let go of the thing that brings us confidence. Make up and I had a beneficial, yet extreme ly toxic relationship—even though I still use it occasionally on the week ends, I’m better off without it. Break ing up with makeup not only taught me to love myself, but it made me realize that my imperfections do not mean that I am flawed. Two months post-breakup, I have never felt as good in my own skin.

Makeup, I wish you well—but I am nev er coming back.

What Defines You?

THE IMPORTANT ROLE HOBBIES PLAY IN SELF-IDENTITY AND CONFIDENCE

Ithas been said that standing in front of a mirror and declaring what you love about yourself can help build self-esteem. While this may be true, the result is often fleeting—and it’s not sustainable. Confidence ebbs and flows. You may feel confident one day and wake up feeling insecure the next. Oftentimes, we attribute our confidence to the way that we look. Women in particular are spoon-fed the misconception that feeling comfortable in your own skin is solely dependent on loving your body. However, true confidence comes from the feeling of fulfillment—the nourishment of your soul and self-understanding. Although these aspirations may appear daunting, there is an easy cheat for this kind of gratification: hobbies!

Hobbies are a breeding ground for ful fillment. They give us a sense of accom plishment and something to strive for that is not tied to the way we look. In a way, hobbies shape who we are. When ever you dedicate time to a hobby, you push yourself mentally. And when you are good at something, you feel good about yourself. Mastering Guns N’ Ros es’ “Sweet Child O’ Mine” on guitar, reading all seven Harry Potter books or even dribbling a soccer ball in your par ents’ backyard are all examples that can lead to a sense of achievement.

Hobbies remind us of who we really are—a soul experiencing life through a human body. Nourishing your mind through activities you love, regard less of skill, encourages self-love. It helps you discover your purpose, what

you care about and what is deserv ing of your time.1 This establishment of self-identity curates confidence.2 Walking into a room packed with peo ple is much less daunting when you have a grip on your wants and dreams as a person.

You could spend the entirety of your life pulling and poking at the parts of your body that you’ve been taught to despise. However, constantly pres suring yourself to fit inside a beauty standard can lead to losing sight of the bigger picture. You are a human being with interests, curiosities and passions. Looks are the least interesting thing about you. When you spend more time focusing on other interests, you have less time to spend worrying about your appearance.3

Often, people excuse their lack of hob bies for a lack of time. From a young age, we are hounded by the idea that time should be spent on productivi ty, and we structure our days as such. However, a study done by the Ameri can Time Use Survey suggests that we all have more free time than we antici pate, we just don’t use it wisely. In fact, the average man in the U.S. spends about 3.5 hours of the day on leisurely activities and women spend about 2.3 hours.4 If you start planning your life week by week rather than day by day, it’s much easier to fit leisurely activi

¹

Heather Grant, “Why You Should Keep a Hobby Your Bad At,” Mind Cafe, July 20, 2020.

² Ibid.

³ Karl Perrera, “Hobbies to Build Self Esteem,” 2019.

⁴ Tara Parker Pope, “How to Find a Hobby,” The New York Times, 2018.

Written and modeled by Abby Cattapan, Lifestyle Editorial Assistant Photographed by Anna Janke, Contributing Photographer

ties, such as painting or kayaking, into your schedule.5

Sometimes people brush off hobbies because they feel they are not good enough to do them. They feel foolish trying to learn something new. Learn ing a new skill can be daunting, but the purpose of a hobby is for self-enjoy ment, not to impress others. When it comes to hobbies, there’s no reference for success. You don’t need to be per fect at something for it to be good for you. Picking up an activity that makes you feel invested in your happiness is what matters most.6

Next time you find yourself focus ing a little too hard on things such as your appearance, consider picking up a paintbrush, signing up for kickbox ing lessons or learning how to sew. At the end of the day, your body is just a body. It’s an outlet that allows you to experience the world—and the way it looks is not a reflection of your spirit or genuine sense of self. Force time into your schedule to explore new activities and interests. You may be astounded at how investing time into your happi ness makes you feel. Hobbies: they’re food for your soul.

Ibid.

Ibid.

Empowered to the Core

WEIGHTLIFTING BUILDS YOUR BODY AND YOUR BRAIN

Written by Honor Williams, Contributing Writer

Illustrated by Riley August, Staff Graphic Artist

Breathing

deeply, I plant my feet firmly onto the ground. I focus my gaze ahead, embrace my core and pull up on the bar as I exhale to execute the deadlift. My heart pounds in my chest as drops of sweat slowly form on my brow. “One more rep,” I tell myself. “It’s worth it. I promise.”

There’s nothing quite like experiencing the raw feeling of complete and total freedom from the world around you. The power that I feel when weightlift ing liberates me—I am in control of my body, I feel strong and I am generat ing strength from both my muscles and my mind. It is a power that I’ve derived from a necessary authenticity I have developed with myself. In order to properly train, I have to be honest with myself, where I am on my journey and what I need to put in to receive results. While it may feel impossible at times, the copious benefits make it worth the fight.

Weight lifting benefits your brain in numerous ways, including improv ing memory, general cognitive func tion and mental acuity.1 When you lift weights, blood circulation to the brain and muscles increases, which leads to the secretion of molecules that accel erate neural growth.2 Your brain also releases endorphins, which in turn can relieve tension and stress, improve your mood and lower levels of anxiety and depression.3 Weightlifting has even been shown to improve the quality of your sleep.4 Heading to the gym after a long and discouraging day always makes me feel as if I’ve accomplished

¹ “Weight training may boost brain power,” Har vard Health Publishing, Jan 1, 2017.

² Lawrence Robinson, Jeanne Segal, and Melinda Smith, “The Mental Health Benefits of Exercise,” HelpGuide, Aug. 2021.

³ Lorne David Opler, “Your brain on barbells: Could strength training help improve your mood?” The Washington Post, Sept. 2, 2020.

⁴ Jason Bennie and Susanne Tittleboch, “Mus cle-strengthening exercise and sleep quality among a nationally representative sample of 23,635 German adults,” Science Direct, Dec. 2020.

something—my energy is replenished and my mood feels more stable.

While daunting at first, once you get into a regular training routine, the gym becomes predictable, reliable and something that you can look for ward to. Wanting to feel strong and in control of your life and body is natu ral and healthy. Maslow’s hierarchy of needs—a multi-tiered conceptual model that specifies levels of human needs—emphasizes that having high self-efficacy is a key component in obtaining self-esteem and self-actual ization.5 In establishing familiarity with exercises in the gym, your self-efficacy will increase, making it worth the inter nal and external battles that can come with weightlifting.6

Becoming independently motivat ed helps you build a strong sense of self-reliance and confidence. Julia Waltzman, a personal trainer at the Nicholas Center of Recreation and Wellness on UW-Madison’s campus, reports feeling more confident and ca pable after working on weight training for several years.

“When I first started going to the gym, I was absolutely terrified, finding rea

ress in the gym leads me to feel capa ble of doing other things.”8

Weightlifting is self-reliant; it is some

sons to give up,” she said. “It’s definite ly given me more confidence in myself because I can set a goal and work to wards it.”7

Waltzman explained that this experi ence has also increased her diligence in life outside of weightlifting, “Know ing that I’m capable of making prog

⁵ Saul McLeod, “Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs,” Simply Psychology, Dec. 29, 2020.

⁶ “The Exercise Professional’s Guide to Personal Training,” American Council on Exercise, Sept. 30, 2020.

⁷ Julia Waltzman, “Personal communication,” Oct. 20, 2021.

thing you experience uniquely and authentically by yourself. For many, starting to lift with a buddy or a trainer provides motivation, but the true ben efits come once you establish motiva tion within yourself. When you wake up in the morning for a lift and you don’t have a coach or teammates to moti vate you, you have to depend on your own mental fortitude. Self-reliance and motivation are empowering. Weight lifting is an independent process that allows you to gain these skills and take full credit for everything you’ve built and accomplished.

While you may just see lifting as a way to strengthen your muscles, it is also a way to strengthen your mind, your control, your precision, your patience and your approach to life. Weightlift ing is not easy; it’s raw, exhausting and hardcore. You won’t wake up every day feeling motivated, and sometimes, you will fall into the trap of comparing your journey and progress with that of oth ers. There will be moments when your body and mind are entirely exhaust ed—but it’s worth it to stick it out.

If you’re worried about where to start, personal trainers, along with YouTube videos and books on anatomy, phys iology, kinesiology and motivational psychology can be extremely help ful. Most importantly, don’t be afraid. Weightlifting is a mechanism for men tal and physical development. It is a journey you will go through complete ly independently, and because of that, the work that you put into yourself and the progress that you achieve feels even more amazing. ■

⁸ Ibid.

The Abolition of the Pill

WHY ARE MORE WOMEN DECIDING TO GO OFF BIRTH CONTROL?

Written by Elizabeth Karnowski, Culture Staff Writer Graphic by Annika Ide, Art Director

Betweenthe years 2017 and 2019, around 65.3% of women aged 15 to 49 in the United States were using a form of contraception.1 This percentage continues to rise today; however, many women have started to come forward about their experiences of what happens when they come off of birth control. As more and more women choose to stop their use of birth control methods, such as the pill, it’s important that we examine why.

After female sterilization, the second most common form of birth control is oral contraception, also known as “the pill.”2 The appeal to go off of birth con trol is just as large as the appeal to be gin taking it in the first place, as oral contraception comes with a hefty list of side effects. A survey showed that 70% of young women have quit or are considering quitting oral contracep tion, and many women are considering switching to other forms.3

Although the pill comes with attrac tive side effects, such as lessening menstrual cramps, making one’s cycle more regulated and helping with acne and weight loss or gain,4 the pill’s list of harmful effects is much longer. Of tentimes, the harmful effects of the pill are overlooked by people who de cide to take it. These side effects can include increased risk for breast, liver and cervical cancers, blood clots and heart attacks, mood swings and mi graines.5 Given these risks, among oth ers, many female-identifying individu als are switching forms of birth control or going off of it altogether.

¹ “Current Contraceptive Status Among Women Aged 15-49: United States, 2017-2019,” CDC, Oct. 2020.

² Ibid.

³ Sara Hendricks, “Women are trading birth con trol pills—here’s why you may want to consider changing too,” Insider, March 13, 2018.

⁴ Emily Abbate, “Is Stopping Birth Control for a Little While a Good Idea?” Self, April 16, 2020.

⁵ “Contraception,” CDC, accessed Oct. 2021.

Even quitting the pill can have unex pected effects, including an increase in libido, change in overall mood and feeling more in control over one’s emo tions. There’s also the chance that acne may return as hormones begin to shift, and someone’s menstrual cycle could change over time without the constant regulation implemented by the pill.

Despite all the unknowns surround ing the pill, without having the fear of pregnancy, women gain new free dom when it comes to being sexually active. Additionally, many pills help women to lower their symptoms of anxiety and depression.7 However, it’s important to note that some birth control methods can have the oppo site effect. Mood swings can cause a disruption in one’s daily life, and the effects of anxiety and depression that are sometimes brought on through oral contraceptives can be mentally taxing on an individual.

Ultimately, birth control is more than just a way to prevent pregnancy; it is a way for women to take control of their cycles and regulate other health issues. The right contraceptive is different for every individual, and sometimes no contraceptive is the best option.

What is freeing to one person may quickly become a burden to another. Birth control is an individual medical choice that should not be influenced by societal perceptions about what is right. What’s best for you may not always be the best for someone else and vice versa. While there are many people going off of birth control, it’s important to consult with a doctor or professional to ensure you have the means to make the safest decision for yourself.

■

⁶ Nivin Todd, “Stopping the Pill? 10 Ways Your Body May Change,” WebMD, Sept. 11, 2020.

⁷ Pandia Health Editorial Team, “Can Birth Control Cause Anxiety?” Pandia Health, Jan. 4, 2021.

The American Uniform

Written by Clara Padgham, Contributing Writer

Photographed by Jessica Tenen baum, Contribtuing Photographer

Modeled by Bela Orzechowski, Staff Photographer, Ashley Glass, Fashion Staff Writer, Kate Madigan, Staff Graphic Artist, Clara Padgham, Contributing Writer and Rachael Cole

A BELOVED STAPLE FOR MIN ERS, COWBOYS AND XTINA: HOW THE ICONIC LEVI'S JEANS HAVE PERSISTED OVER TIME

Frompetticoats to flappers to sixties mod dresses, American fashion has had an extensive history. However, no style has been as persistent as a simple pair of jeans and a white t-shirt. The ensemble is as classically American and as relevant to the country’s history as Apple Pie. The most ‘American’ aspect of the beloved jeans that initiated a movement of simplicity and effortless style is that it began with an immigrant, Levi Strauss.

In 1850, Levi Strauss arrived in Ameri ca hoping to make his fortune through the Gold Rush. In the process, he dis covered that a lot of the working men did not have suitable work pants. To combat this issue, Strauss hired a tai lor to connect rivets to denim and distributed the final product to min ers. In 1853, Strauss partnered with his brothers to turn his denim vision into a full company.1

After Strauss’ death in 1902, the com pany temporarily underwent a tumul tuous period before becoming the iconic brand we know and love today.2 In 1946, Levi’s went from wholesaling to making clothes under its own label. The company eventually went public in 1971 but was reclaimed by Strauss descendants 14 years later.3 A slew of controversies lost the brand a signif icant amount of revenue, but in 2011, Levi’s hired Chip Bergh as its new CEO, and he led fruitful rebranding efforts.

At their inception, jeans were intended for working men. This stubborn stereo

¹ "Levi Strauss Biography,” Biography, 2021.

² “Levi Strauss & Co.,” Encyclopedia Britannica, 2019.

³ Ibid.

type persisted through the first World War when they were issued to soldiers. With the rise of the film industry, the glamorization of denim-clad cowboys increased Levi’s popularity amongst Americans who were looking for more casual attire. When Hollywood starlets Carole Lombard and Ginger Rogers wore Levi’s jeans, women too wanted in on the trend that Vogue dubbed “western chic.”4

Gradually, wearing Levi’s became a way to go against the grain. In the 1950s, rock ‘n’ roll stars who wore den im became a symbol for rebellious and anti-establishment youth. Hippies garbed themselves with denim in the ‘60s to show solidarity for the work ing class and bring awareness to gen der inequality. In the ‘90s and 2000s, consumers sought vintage Levi’s as a means to defy mainstream clothing. Across subcultures and decades, Levi’s blue jeans persevered, thus bringing the American Uniform to fame.

It is the sheer simplicity of blue jeans and a white t-shirt that makes the look so exemplary. When James Dean and Ginger Rogers donned the style, they proved that it could be for any gender, and it became a staple for style icons throughout the years. Grace Kelly, Princess Diana, Marilyn Monroe, Ken dall Jenner and Gigi Hadid are just a few of the many names who have had their moment wowing in Levi’s and a white tee.5 The uniform’s raw charm has reigned through the decades and will continue for many more to come.

When Levi Strauss first sewed rivets onto denim, it is doubtful he thought he’d be spearheading an iconic Amer ican brand and style. The Levi’s den im and white t-shirt ensemble are too classic to ever be deemed trendy, and its timeless popularity makes it evident that adopting microtrends are not the only means of dressing fashionably. Moreover, its affordability and accessi bility keep the look in many people’s repertoire. If you’re ever seeking a quick contemporary ensemble, look no further than your favorite white t-shirt and thrifted pair of 501s. ■

⁴ Maude Bass-Kreuger, “Vogue Encyclopedia: The history of denim jeans,” Vogue Paris, 2019. ⁵ Ibid.

Raw Recipes

RECIPES FROM THE MODA LIFESTYLE SECTION

Writen by Mason Braasch, Lifestyle Editor, Abby Cattapan, Lifestyle Editorial Assistant, Shannon McManus, Lifestyle Staff Writer, Mi Chuin da Levy, Lifestyle Staff Writer and Jamie Randall, Contributing Writer

Photographed by Luc Marchessault, Staff Photographer

Rawcan mean a few different things when it comes to food. Whether you follow a raw, plant-based diet, are a sushi connoisseur or choose to eat your cookie dough uncooked, these Raw recipes will have you coming back for more!

Homemade Applesauce

My mother would make my family this applesauce using apples from our grandparent’s farm, which adds even more of a special, raw, homemade taste. However, you can use any fla vor or kind of apple you prefer for this delicious snack! Cinnamon and sugar are also optional, depending on your desires. This is an easy fall recipe for cooler days.

-Shannon

Recipe Adapted from Jen at Yummy Healthy Easy

INGREDIENTS

12 golden delicious apples

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 cup water

1 Tbsp. lemon juice

INSTRUCTIONS

Peel and core apples, cut into fourths and place in a crock pot

In the crock pot, toss apples in lemon juice and add in sugar and cinnamon, stirring to combine, then add in water

Cover with a crock pot lid and cook on HIGH for 3-4 hours, until the apples are very softened

Eat immediately or store in a sealed container in the refrigerator—enjoy!

Gluten Free Banana Bread

Banana Bread has been one of my fa vorite foods since I was young. This recipe is an easy college delicacy that uses up raw ingredients that are al ways in my kitchen!

-Mason

INGREDIENTS

3 ripe bananas

2 cups of oats

⅓ cup of maple syrup

1 tsp of baking soda 2 eggs

1 tsp of vanilla extract

Cinnamon Optional Chocolate chips, blueberries, or walnuts

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees

2. Add all ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth

3. If desired, add chocolate chips, wal nuts or blueberries into the mixture

4. Spray a bread pan with cooking spray and pour your mixture into the pan

5. Sprinkle the top with cinnamon and swirl!

6. Bake for 30 minutes, or until a knife comes out clean after sinking it into the middle of the bread

7. Let cool and enjoy!

Vanilla-Scented Granola

This warm, vanilla-scented gra nola recipe is the perfect snack addition to keep you cozy during the fall season!

-Abby

INGREDIENTS

4 cups old fashioned oats

1 cup slivered almonds

½ cup brown sugar

Pinch salt

⅛ tsp cinnamon

1 cup dried cranberries

¼ cup honey

⅓ cup canola oil

2 T sugar

4 tsp vanilla extract

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Mix oats, almonds, brown sug ar, salt, cinnamon and cranberries together in a large bowl

2. In a small saucepan, bring hon ey, oil and sugar to a simmer

3. Take off the heat and add va nilla extract

4. Toss dry and liquid ingredi ents together

5. Spread mixture evenly over 11 x 13” pan and bake for 3045 min at 300 degrees or until golden brown

Oreo Cookie Balls

RAW can mean a lot more than fresh, organic or clean eating. Some times it also can mean no-bake! A household staple of mine for many years has been Oreo cookie balls. Quick, simple, easy and kid-friendly if you have tiny helpers!

-Mi

INGREDIENTS

Package of Oreos Package of softened cream cheese Chocolate chips or chocolate melts

SUPPLIES

Food processor or ziplock bag and rolling pin (or hands)

Parchment paper Baking tray

Mixing bowls Spoon or spatula

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Crush the whole Oreos into a fine consistency (you can do so by using a food processor or by putting Oreos into a bag and going to town with a rolling pin or hands)

2. Place all of the crushed Oreos into a mixing bowl and mix in the Oreos until it is homogenous

3. Next, take spoonfuls of the mix ture and roll them into a ball shape *Another great step for little ones to help with!*

4. Place completed balls onto a baking tray lined with parchment paper—once complete, place them in the freezer for a while un til they are cold and firm

5. Next, in a microwavable bowl, add your chocolate chips or choc olate melts

6. Heat the chocolate in the micro wave in small increments and at each interval stir the chocolate to prevent scorching the chocolate

7. Take the balls out of the freezer and dip them into the chocolate with a spoon, shake off the excess chocolate then replace them onto the baking tray

8. After all the balls are dipped, place them back into the freezer for the chocolate to harden up 9. Enjoy and share (or don’t… they might be too delicious to share)!

Rainbow Wraps

Wondering how to incorpo rate raw veggies into a quick lunch meal? Grab a tortilla of your choice, some hummus for a spread and whatever veggies you have in your fridge for a quick and easy lunch.

-Jamie

BASE AND SPREAD

Tortilla (choice of wheat, white, whole grain)

Hummus, mayonnaise or any spread to your liking

VEGETABLES

½ Bell peppers-red, yellow, green sliced

1 cup of fresh spinach

½ cup of carrots

½ cup of shredded purple cabbage

SEASONING

Salt and pepper to taste

Everything But the Bagel Seasoning Other seasoning of your choice

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Use your choice of hummus or mayonnaise and spread it on the tortilla

2. Place vegetables of your choos ing in an even layer and top it off with seasoning

3. Fold and tightly wrap the tortilla Recipe credit: Nikki ■

The Dark Side of Your Light Washes

THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS OF JEAN PRODUCTION–AND HOW WE CAN STOP IT

Writen by Manon Bushong, Fashion Editor Graphic by Jessica Tenenbaum, Staff Graphic Artist

As the holiday season approaches, we are met with the impending doom of mass consumerism. Every year, we see markdowns on many popular clothing items and jeans especially, whether it be Levi 501s or Zara’s viral TikTok denim flare pants. It is easy to be swayed by a bargain; as consumers, we are programmed to gravitate towards the best possible deal. Although this may be a minimal cost to us, the harm our jean shopping is doing to our planet is exponential.

Fast fashion is certainly a buzzword right now. It’s trendy to flaunt alleged ly ethical clothing, yet many of these clothing lines are still detrimental to the environment. Overpriced clothing com panies will alter one aspect of produc tion or use eco-friendly packaging, and then parade the sustainable title around for the sake of customer attraction. In reality, mass clothing production can never truly coincide with sustainability.

Denim is a fabric staple, and it would be presumably quite rare to meet a soul in today’s society without several pairs of jeans in their closet. But what does this normalization of excessive denim con sumption mean for the environment? A single pair of jeans can require up to 10,000 liters of water, an amount that could otherwise sustain a human need for around 10 years.1 With this comes immense water pollution. The water used in the process of jean construc tion becomes contaminated with dyes, chemicals and metals, a repercussion that countries with manufacturing dis tricts, such as Bangladesh,2 are forced to endure.

It feels wrong to inhabit a planet where 10% of the population does not have consistent access to clean drinking

1 Charlie Bell, “Longest lasting jeans: Why you need to wear your jeans for nine months longer to offset their carbon footprint,” Women & Home, 2020.

² Helen Regan, “Asian rivers are turning black. And our colorful closets are to blame,” CNN, 2020.

water,3 yet for others, it is the norm to hoard a closet that took a lifetime of drinking water to manufacture. Are there any palpable fixes to this devas tating juxtaposition?

While any denim production is harm ful, many companies are recognizing the immensity of their footprint and pledging to make a difference. Levi’s is one of the most notable through pub licly acknowledging the harm denim production causes while also pursu ing different means of changing the industry. Recently, the brand began to experiment with hemp for its fabric production, which requires a quarter the amount of water as cotton.4 It has also inserted itself into the innovative movement of replicating the appear ance of denim using 3D printing, an initiative designed to minimize the in dustry’s footprint.5

When investing in a new pair of jeans that avoids the trap of greenwashing, you should look toward quality brands that aim to make a change in how they manufacture. That said, a sustainable tag does not mean you should pur chase as many as you can—it is just a step in the right direction. The more jeans we produce, whether sustainable or not, the more clothing waste we will ultimately end up within our land fills. The United States alone discards 17 million tons of clothing waste each year.6 This statistic is undoubtedly a consequence of the fast fashion indus try and the culture of overconsump tion we exist in.

To minimize the effects of consump tion, consider thrifting your jeans in the future. It can be a fun and inexpensive way to incorporate quality jeans into

³ “The Global Risks Report 2020,” World Eco nomic Forum, 2020.

⁴ Dario Sabaghi, “Levi’s Aims to Use More Hemp for Its Fashion Collections,” Forbes, 2021.

⁵ Alexandrea P, “Levi’s Takes First Steps Into 3D Printing with a 3D Printed Jacket,” 3D Natives, 2017.

⁶ Lauren Evans, “The Entrepreneur Transforming Scraps Into a Fashion Statement,” NRDC, 2020.

your wardrobe. If you have something specific in mind, try searching on sec ond-hand clothing applications, such as Depop and Poshmark. Additionally, when shopping, look for quality items that satisfy your personal taste rather than a fleeting social trend—that way, your clothing items are sure to last you long into the future and bring you joy.

While it is obvious that fast fashion’s problem lies with the mass retailers churning out around 6 billion pairs of jeans a year,7 there is something to be said about consumer power in this in dustry. As consumers, we should take pride in making purchases that do not contribute to the problem. From now on, we should aim to invest in quality denim that will stop us from indulging in frequent cheap purchases of low quali ty, trendy jeans—personal style is cooler than following micro trends anyway.

■

⁷ Kathleen Webber, “The Environmental and Hu man Cost of Making a Pair of Jeans,” Eco Watch, 2018.

The BBL Effect:

Where leftist feminism went too far

OF

Kylie

Jenner’s lip fillers. Tyra Banks’s nose job. Your neighbor’s BBL. People are becoming increasingly transparent about cosmetic surgery— and following the “Zoom boom” and convenient time away from the office during the pandemic, procedures are on the rise. There were a total of 13.5 million cosmetic procedures performed last year, 92% of which were on females,1 and the number of infamous Brazilian butt lift or BBL surgeries has risen to 77.6% worldwide since 2015.2 Hailed by many as an act of empowerment, the global rise of this trend begs the question: is plastic surgery good for feminism?

Despite their popularity, these surger ies haven’t necessarily translated into more self-esteem on a wide scale. A 2021 report by The Body Shop found that one in two women feel more selfdoubt about themselves than selflove.3 Similarly, a 2019 Gillette Venus poll found that almost a quarter of women feel uncomfortable in their own skin, with six in 10 attributing their feel ings to failure to meet “typical beauty standards.”4 These emotions have no doubt been heightened by influencers and celebrity social media content, ad vertising a combination of slim waists and voluminous curves accomplish able only by Facetune or surgery.

Plastic surgery has gained a feminist boost as part of the fourth wave of feminism, characterized by the use of the internet to spread ideas about equal pay, sex positivity, bodily auton omy, rape culture and the breakdown of gender norms. Some women have argued that plastic surgery can be a way to reclaim the scrutiny over their bodies. Others, like Glamour Maga zine’s Marie-Claire Chappet, claim that the idea that plastic surgery and femi nism are antithetical “goes to the core of the power of the male gaze to in form women’s decisions and how they measure their own worth.”5

Meanwhile, important leaders like Ter ry O’Neill, the National Organization for Women’s president at the time, ¹ “2020 Plastic Surgery Statistics Report,” Ameri can Society of Plastic Surgeons, 2020.

² “ISAPS Global Survey 2019 - Aesthetic Plastic Surgery,” The International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS), 2019.

³ The Body Shop International Ltd., “Self Love Crisis: 1 in 2 Women Worldwide Feel More SelfDoubt than Self-Love,” Self Love Crisis, March 8, 2021.

AND

Written by Rachel Hale, Culture Editor

Graphic by Haley Wolff, Staff Graphic Artist

SURGERY

⁴ Amanda Pauley, “A Quarter of Women Feel Un comfortable in Their Skin,” Professional Beauty, 2019.

⁵ Marie-Claire Chappet, “You Can Have Plastic Surgery and Still Be a Feminist so Please Stop Judging the Love Island Women,” Glamour UK, July 18, 2018.

argued that cosmetic surgery could help middle-aged women appeal to employers in a competitive job mar ket.6 During the health care reform de bates of 2009, she spoke out against the “Bo-Tax,” a 5% tax on elective cos metic procedures.

“They have to find work,” she told the New York Times. “And they are going for Botox or going for eye work, be cause the fact is we live in a society that punishes women for getting older.”7

O’Neill was correct that we live in an ageist society, but supporting plastic surgery under a feminist guise only continues to uphold the rigid stan dards that pressure women into sur gery in the first place. Women have used unhealthy tools to maintain unre alistic beauty ideals for ages, from tak ing liquid emulsion tablets to achieve a full-figure in the 1950s8 to restrict ing calories to imitate the heroin-chic aesthetic in the 1990s. But the rise of invasive surgeries like the BBL, which has the highest mortality rate of any cosmetic surgery, have promoted dan ger on a mass scale. Even when not fatal, procedures like breast implants can cause lifelong pain if ruptured, and tummy tucks can lead to conditions like Seroma, the swelling of sterile blood beneath the surface of the skin.9

In her weekly feminist column for the Indepedent, Harriet Hall, author of “She: A Celebration of Renegade Women,” argues that we’ve normalized plastic surgery to the extent that it’s crossed over into the women’s empowerment lane.10 She brings up that in many cas es, it’s males who profit off of these sur geries—after all, men make up 85% of board-certified plastic surgeons.11

“We’ve started talking about cosmetic procedures as another way for women to achieve ‘confidence’ and feel ‘em powered.’ This is a convenient narra tive for the power structures that have a vested interest in making money from female insecurity, and portraying women as being of little value beyond their physical appearance,” Hall writes.

⁶ Jesse Mckinley, “A Tax on NIPS and Tucks Angers Patients, Surgeons,” The New York Times, Nov. 30, 2009.

⁷ Ibid.

⁸ Ellie Krupnick, “Photos: The (Vintage) Anti-Skin ny Campaign,” HuffPost, Dec. 7, 2017.

⁹ Anna Schaefer, “10 Common Plastic Surgery Complications: Hematoma, Infection, More,” Healthline Media, April 27, 2019.

10 Harriet Hall, “Opinion: Cosmetic Surgery Isn’t Empowerment – It’s Just an Easy Way to Exploit Women’s Insecurities,” The Independent, Aug. 21, 2019.

11 “2020 Plastic Surgery Statistics Report,” Ameri can Society of Plastic Surgeons, 2020.

While trends of BBLs and big lips may go out of style, their correlating pro cedures contribute to the long-term idea that women’s bodies are part of the same trend cycle as fashion or makeup, more valuable for their out ward appearance than function. The expenses of these procedures, which range from $62012 for hyaluronic filler to upwards of $5,500 for BBL packag es,13 reinforce that women of higher so cioeconomic status have more access to beauty than those with less resourc es. Moreover, the approval that white celebrities receive when they take on

short-term effects of CoolSculpting fat removal or a keratin treatment. Aver age-looking men can be redeemed by a charming personality or sense of hu mor, but women are expected to have these things in addition to the pre requisite of youthful looks; for many, plastic surgery is merely a way to feel average amidst this overwhelming double-standard.

Ultimately, women shouldn’t feel ashamed about cosmetic changes or feel pressure to explain their reason ing for getting a procedure. However,

the curvy waists associated with Black and Latinx communities or the fox-eye inspired by Asian communities further allows white women to profit off wom en of color whom “the fashion estab lishment had previously critiqued.”14

Plastic surgery can be life changing in improving a person’s self esteem and day-to-day confidence, from hav ing the ability to reshape birth de fects and scars of traumatic incidents to modifying everyday insecurities.15

For some trans women seeking tradi tionally feminine features, procedures can help people feel affirmed in their bodies. One could argue that less inva sive procedures, like six months worth of lip filler,16 are comparable to the

12 Lucie Wisco, “Juvederm: Cost, Side Effects, and Risks,” Healthline Media, June 15, 2018.

13 Rebecca Jennings, “The $5,000 Quest for the Perfect Butt,” Vox, Aug. 2, 2021.

14 Ibid.

15 Ria Smit et al., “Reflecting on Female Beauty,” (Qualitative Sociology Review, Dec. 2018.

16 Perrie Samotin et al., “9 Things I Wish I Knew

framing the decision to go under the knife as one of women’s empower ment isn’t only misleading, it’s harmful to the future of impressionable young women everywhere, who shouldn’t have to invest in thousands of dollars worth of procedures to feel comfort able in their looks.

I’m not ruling out plastic surgery in the future. But if I do enlist the help of a surgeon one day, it won’t be in the name of feminism. In trying to help women combat the pitfalls of sexism, these surgeries have reinforced the same agesist and patriarchal beauty standards feminists have seeked to move away from. The only way to truly dismantle eurocentric and agesit stan dards of beauty is to remain authentic within our own skin—and stop lying in order to make ourselves feel better.

■

before Getting Lip Injections,” Glamour, Aug. 4, 2017

While trends of BBLs and big lips may go out of style, their correlating procedures contribute to the long-term idea that women’s bodies are part of the same trend cycle as fashion or makeup, more valuable for their outward appearance than function.

Directed by Corbin Woessner, Fashion Director

Assisted by Dani Arensdorf, Fashion Contributor

Photographed by Seth DeGier, Assistant Photography Director, and Hunter Kiehl, Staff Photographer

Modeled by Amaya Gatling and Isaac Westberg

The Former is Female

THE SUPPRESSION OF FEMALE SCIENTIFIC CONTRIBUTORS

Written by Emma Goshin, Contributing Writer

Today, female scientists run labs, teach at universities and win Nobel prizes. But it wasn’t always this way—historically, fields like STEM, genetics and physics have excluded women and taken advantage of their contributions in scientific research.

Henrietta Lacks

Perhaps the most known instance of a woman being taken advantage of in the name of science is Henrietta Lacks, a poor Black woman who visited Johns Hopkins Hospital in 1951 due to issues with vaginal bleeding. After her doc tors discovered a tumor on her cervix, she began radium treatments.1 A sam ple of Lacks’ cells were taken from the tumor without her permission and sent to Dr. George Gey, a cancer and virus researcher. Shockingly, Lacks’ cells, un like the others in the lab, survived and doubled around once a day. These cells, now named HeLa cells, are still used to study the effects of drugs, hormones and viruses on the growth of cancer cells. Despite her massive contribution to science, Lacks’s family was not no tified of samples’ use until 1973.2 Al though Lacks passed away at the young age of 31, her contribution to the med ical field has helped countless patients in fields like genetics, AIDS and cancer research. Her case also raised import ant questions in the science community about the privacy of medical records, informed consent and communication with research participants.

Katherine Johnson, Dorothy Vaughn and Mary Jackson

At the height of the Space Race in the 1960s, it was uncommon to see a wom ¹ Butanis, Benjamin. “The Legacy of Henrietta Lacks.” Johns Hopkins Medicine, based in Balti more, Maryland, July 27, 2021.

² Maria Cramer, “Henrietta Lacks, Whose Cells Were Taken without Her Consent, Is Honored by W.H.O,” The New York Times, Oct. 13, 2021.

an behind the scenes of scientific oper ations, let alone a woman of color. Yet Katherine Johnson, Dorothy Vaughn and Mary Jackson, three Black em ployees of NASA, overcame workplace ridicule and discriminatory practices to make huge contributions to the era. Though they took on the same respon sibilities as the white men surrounding them, they were almost invisible to a public that was grappling with the Civil Rights Movement. While their ac complishments were long overlooked in the scope of history, the book and movie “Hidden Figures” has worked to bring their names to light through an accurate depiction of the discriminato ry practices the women experienced.3

Lisa Meitner

Another woman underappreciated in science history is Lisa Meitner, a Jew ish-Austrian woman who made huge contributions in the discovery of nucle ar fission, or the ability to split atoms. She became a university lecturer and led several classes on quantum phys ics until Adolf Hitler stripped Jewish academic professionals of their posi tions and Austrians were brought un der German law.4 Her identity as a Jew and woman shows the way aspects of identity can be compounded to further suppress minority contributions.

Because Meitner’s scientific work was so powerful during the 1930s, she became a sought-after Nazi target and was forced to flee to Sweden. After settling in Stockholm, Meitner did research with scientists Otto Hahn and Fritz Strass man, where she helped to uncover fis sion.5 Although her work was revolution ary, it was not until 1966 when Meitner

³ History.com Editors, The space race, History. com, Feb. 22, 2010.

⁴ Patricia Rife, “Lise Meitner - Summarized by Plex.page: Content: Summarization.”

⁵ Meghan Murray, “History Has Overlooked These 8 Women Scientists - but Not Anymore,” Ted. com, March 18, 2021.

was awarded the Enrico Fermi Award to recognize her for her contributions.

Today, the gender gap in fields like STEM are still daunting: although women make up nearly half of the U.S. workforce, only 27% of STEM workers are women,6 and women in STEM earn less on average than their male coun terparts.7 But women have worked to overcome this suppression by protest ing gender norms and improving op portunities for women throughout the decades. Since 1970, there has been an increase in female representation in math, life and physical science.8 Wom en have specifically pushed initiatives to get young girls interested in STEM. For example, Girls Who Code works to build a worldwide pipeline of future fe male engineers, running9 summer, col lege and club programs to encourage women to get involved in computer science and engineering.

The cases of Henrietta Lacks, Kather ine Johnson, Dorothy Vaughn, Mary Jackson and Lisa Meitner reveal an unfortunate commonality of American history: men have been able to take the credit, money and titles for the back-breaking work done by women because of their gender. Though histo ry cannot be changed, the future is still unwritten, and it needs to be one that includes and credits the accomplish ments of women in science. ■

⁸

⁶ U.S. Census Bureau, “Women Are Nearly Half of U.S. Workforce but Only 27% of STEM Workers,” Census.gov, Oct. 8, 2021.

⁷ Richard Fry, Brian Kennedy, and Cary Funk, “Stem Jobs See Uneven Progress in Increasing Gender, Racial and Ethnic Diversity,” Pew Re search Center, April 1, 2021.

U.S. Census Bureau, “Women Are Nearly Half of U.S. Workforce but Only 27% of STEM Workers,” Census.gov, Oct. 8, 2021.

⁹ Girls Who Code, “Home,” June 14, 2021.

Natural Sounds in Classical Music

Written by Kora Quinn, Arts Editor

Painted by Audrey O'Neill, Photography Director

Birdschirping in the morning, ocean waves crashing onto the shore, coffee shop chatter—are all natural sounds commonly used in music, each evoking a specific feeling of their own. In any genre of music, you’ll often find samples of nature or day-to-day life. Even the pop and indie-rock genres commonly feature bizarre and random sounds. These sounds always serve a purpose in songs, whether that’s to make you feel relaxed, ground you in a specific place or simulate a certain environment.

What most people don’t know is that natural sounds and elements are also common in classical music, a genre that many musicians consider to be the most “natural” of all. This perception comes mostly from the physical instru ments musicians use, which tend to be composed of all natural materials.

Up until the 1900s, for example, strings for violins, violas and the like were made out of “catgut,” meaning sheep intestines.1 Today, bows are still made of horsehair and many timpani heads are still made out of calfskin (as sad as that sounds).2 But it’s not just what classical instruments are made out of that makes them feel natural, it’s also how these instruments are used.

In 2020, I saw the DePaul University percussion ensemble perform at the Holtschneider Performance Center in Chicago. The piece on their program that stood out to me the most was “José/beFore John 5,” composed by Aurél Holló. In it, two percussionists drummed on a guitar that was lying on its back across two chairs—and yes, this was actually written in the music.

¹ “How Are Violin Strings Made?” String O.vation, March 2019.

² Troy C. Wollwage, “Anatomy of Timpani,” Yama ha, May 2019.

One of the performers of this piece was Jeremy Reutebuch, a percus sionist and composer who’s currently a senior at DePaul University. I asked him if this seemingly non-traditional, “natural” way of using instruments and sound in classical music is common.

“Nature and the intimacy of the nat ural world have always informed clas sical music,” he said. “This dates back to music in the early Catholic Church, which was kind of the beginning of Western classical music. David Lang, for example, is a modern composer famous for writing some of the most prolific percussion works. He wrote an entire piece of music that is just based on natural instruments such as wood, porcelain and metal. I was inspired by Lang in the process of writing my own piece, ‘Sfumato.’”

“Sfumato” is Reutebuch’s original composition, first performed at DePaul University in February 2020. Sfumato is an Italian word meaning “vanished or evaporated,” indicating the dissipation of smoke into the air.3 It is also a paint ing technique, known for being used by Leonardo da Vinci, who is the focus of Reutebuch’s piece.

“I wanted the fabric of the piece to sound like ‘sfumato,’ like it’s dissipat ing into the air,” Reutebuch said. “The piece is for four percussionists and a soloist, with the soloist representing Leonardo da Vinci. Leonardo drew ev erything he made from nature, and I wanted to capture that in the music.”

To do this, Reutebuch used many nat ural elements and sounds in the piece, including dipping tam-tams—a type of gong—into a container filled with water.

³ “Leonardo’s Masterful Technique,” Treasure of the World, PBS, accessed Oct. 2021.

“The idea of dipping a gong into wa ter,” Reutebuch began, “is that you have an intense amount of vibrations coming from the metallic instrument, the tam-tam. The container holding the water is also made out of metal, which helps it project, and when the gong is dipped in, you hear the sup pression of those waves coming from the gong. This changes the pitch, mak ing it go up the further the gong goes into the water, simulating the feeling of smoke dissipating.”

Reutebuch was also inspired by Lang for his new composition, which sets Edgar Allan Poe’s poem “The Raven” to music for eight percussionists and four vocalists. He says, “David Lang’s percussion piece, “The so-called laws of nature,” which was commis sioned by Sō Percussion, has each of its movements focus on one of three natural substances: wood, porcelain and metals. They explore the massive variety of sounds and rhythmic possi bilities within these elements. I plan to harness Lang’s concept and expound upon it, meaning each player gets an element of nature and plays it for the entirety of the piece.”

If you browse through songs on any music streaming platform, you’re bound to come across a song that uses something natural—whether that’s rainfall, heels clicking, people talking or babies cooing. While these specif ic sounds are rare in classical music, composers find their own unique ways of incorporating the natural world into their work, like Lang and Reutebuch. If you are interested in hearing how they do this for yourself, Reutebuch’s new composition is set to be performed in April of 2022 at DePaul University. ■

A DISCUSSION WITH A STUDENT PERCUSSIONIST AND COMPOSER

OPENING UP

HOW TO HAVE TOUGH CONVERSATIONS WITH YOUR PARTNER

Written by Shannon McManus, Lifestyle Staff Writer

Photographed by Hannah Huber, Staff Photographer

Modeled by Amalia Cabigas and Nathaniel Dominguez

Openingup is hard. Sharing how you feel about something is hard. Admitting to others what you don’t even want to admit to yourself is hard. Sharing things with your partner can be the hardest of all, for fear of judgment and losing them. But for healthy relationships, it’s important to have these tough conversations to maintain honesty and happiness for each other.

Tough conversations can range from discussing issues you may have in the relationship, such as your partner not putting in the effort you feel is need ed, or personal aspects of yourself that you want to share, like issues with your mental health or your past.

If you’re nervous about the idea of starting these conversations, work on smaller requests in order to become more comfortable with uncomfortable conversations. Start small by asking questions about things you need. This technique is similar to the Ben Franklin effect, something which psychologists point to possibly being able to deep en your relationships. When you ask someone to do you a favor, they are more likely to like you as well to main tain cognitive resolve. This also allows for you to build more intimacy and fos ter trust as you work with one another.1

Make sure your partner feels valued and appreciated as well. It’s important that you consider their opinion in ev ery difficult conversation. This allows for more connection and consideration as you discuss hard topics such as dis contentment or large changes in your relationship. Whatever the tough con versation is, it’s critical to address it with your partner. Otherwise, they may feel cast in the dark and frustration could fester as a result.

While you are building up to a tough conversation, make sure to set the right tone. Find a space that is quiet ¹ Susie Armitage, “The Rules of the Favor Econo my,” Medium, Oct. 23, 2019.

and allows for full engagement where there are no other distractions. By cre ating a safe space and reassuring your partner of how much the relationship means to you, you start the conversa tion in a more positive way.2

Clinical relationship counselor Clinton Power suggests paying attention to your non-verbal cues. Focus on your tone of voice, use friendly facial ex pressions and loving touch, remain close in proximity and maintain eye contact. These actions can reduce the possibility of your partner feeling threatened, which is especially neces sary for keeping a conversation from turning into an argument.3

When you address problems, you need to understand exactly what your needs are first. Psychotherapist Mara Hirschfeld notes that you should spell it out for your partner, explaining that “[the] clearer we can be, the more like ly it is that we will get what we need.”4 Focusing on the message that you are trying to get across will help you choose the words thoughtfully.5

Acknowledging your own feelings and reactions is essential to making sure your partner does not feel defensive. Psychologist and therapist Dr. Brad Brenner states that “beginning with ‘I’ signals to your partner that this is not an attack on them but rather a moment for you to express how their actions have affected you”. This cre ates more trust and desire to work on what is needed, as your partner does not feel as if they have to defend their actions as much.6

For example, if you feel your partner is not affectionate enough, you could approach the conversation by saying “I feel upset that you do not hug me as much as you used to.” This opens the door for honesty, while also showing how you are affected without attack ing or blaming your partner.

Furthermore, when speaking to your partner, make sure you frame it as a conversation rather than a lecture. Share that while you are speaking from your own point of view, you un derstand there are other ways to view the situation. This shows that you’re re ceptive to your partner’s perspective. Dr. Brenner suggests practicing active ² Linda Carroll, “How to Have the Hardest Con versation in Your Relationship, from a Therapist,” mindbodygreen, June 28, 2021.

³ Ibid.

⁴ Margarita Tartakovsky, “How to Ask Your Spouse for Support-without Sounding like a Nag or Critic,” Psych Central, Jan. 4, 2019.

⁵ Ibid.

⁶ “How to Have Better Conversations with Your Partner,” Therapy Group of NYC, April 24, 2021.

listening in conversations, using verbal feedback to let each other know you are listening. Show your partner that you are a team by being present to how your partner responds.7 Open the floor for them to share their point of view and concerns.

Finding common ground and goals will create a feeling of negotiation between two partners instead of conflict be tween two adversaries.8 Demonstrat ing physical affection, such as a hand touch or arm around the shoulder, is a gentle reminder that the uncomfort able conversation is for the good of

partner should be one of the people you want to share most with. Being transparent about your wants and needs rather than passive aggressive helps to ensure you’re on the same page—and this goes for all aspects of life. As relationship counselor Irina Firstein says, “if there is a lack of hon esty, you never truly know who your partner is and what is happening in their inner and outer world.”11

Trust and honesty are values you build throughout a relationship, especially as you share more with the other per son. Mundane and every-day conver

Clinical relationship counselor Clinton Power suggests paying attention to your non-verbal cues. Focus on your tone of voice, use friendly facial expressions and loving touch, remain close in proximity and maintain eye contact.

the relationship. It can make partners feel like they are working together as a team, rather than as individuals.9

Giving up the need to be right will help you focus on finding a win-win situation. Counselor Honni Hayton recommended finding a solution that “acknowledg es both of your wants and needs and accommodates them as far as possi ble.”10 As tough as it is, compromises are at times necessary in relationships, and both partners need to respect each other’s needs and abilities.

Being honest with your partner is also key to having tough conversations and maintaining strong relationships. Your

⁷ Ibid.

⁸ Ibid.

⁹ Ibid.

10 Honni Hayton, “6 Tips for Having Difficult Conversations with Your Partner,” Honni Hayton Counselling, Aug. 11, 2020.

sations help prepare you for conversa tions that aren’t as easy. If you share how you feel on a day-to-day basis, it will be easier to address problems in the long run, build trust and help you navigate issues you may have in life.

No relationship is perfect. As much as we may hate to admit it, we all have things that bother us. Addressing is sues that are bothering you is im portant—working through problems with your partner is sure to build the relationship further. If you’re worried about initiating a tough conversa tion with your partner, start simply by talking with them today about ad dressing both of your hopes and feel ings more often—it will likely bring you closer than ever before. ■

11 Irina Firstein, “Why Is Honesty Important in a Relationship?” Irina Firstein, LCSW, May 28, 2020.

Hard to Swallow

EATING DISORDERS DON'T DISCRIMINATE BY GENDER, NEITHER SHOULD THE DIAGNOSIS

Written by Laine Bottemiller, Contributing Writer

TW: Discussion of eating disorders and broader mental health topics

When I Google search “eating disorders,” a crowd of somber young women peer back at me through my computer screen, all depicting a struggle with food. Although this representation of eating disorders isn’t inaccurate, as the National Institute of Mental health defines eating disorders as “severe disturbances in people’s eating behaviors and related thoughts and emotions,”1 something is missing from these images: men. I scroll through 64 images until a man appears. Eating disorders do not discriminate by gender, and neither should research or opportunities for treatment.

In the medical field, eating disorders have been marked by gender bias. Eat ing disorders in men are often under-di agnosed, undertreated and misunder stood by clinicians. Men and women experience disordered eating behav iors such as binge-eating, purging and fasting at nearly the same rate,2 yet half as many men are actually reported to struggle with eating disorders.3

The establishment of eating disorders as a “female” problem in combination with toxic masculinity can deter men from seeking treatment for fear of be ing seen as unmanly. In contrast with the traditionally female pursuit of “thin ness,” eating disorders in men are of ten driven by fear of being “small” and “weak.” This fuels disorders like mus cle dysmorphia, which often involves use of dangerous anabolic steroids and compulsive exercise to obtain a muscular physique.4 The same senti ment causes men to avoid treatment; despite 25% of bulimia and anorexia nerviosa cases being male, only 10%

¹ The National Institute of Mental Health, “Eating Disorders,” National Institute of Mental Health, February 2016.

² National Eating Disorders Association, “EATING DISORDERS IN MEN & BOYS,” NEDA Feeding Hope, February 26, 2018.

³ Caceres, Vanessa, “Eating Disorder Statistics,” U.S. News, February 14, 2020.

⁴ Phillips, Katharine, and David Castle, “Body dysmorphic disorder in men,” NCBI, November 3, 2001.

of eating disorder patients are male.5 This societal need to be perceived as strong (or an equally strong fear of be ing perceived as weak) negatively rein forces disordered eating habits in men.

Mental illness also becomes gendered in eating disorder research. The gen der-based differences of those experi encing eating disorders are often ne glected by professionals, sometimes leading to the careless application of conclusions from female studies to masculine gender identities. For ex

Gender diverse identities and racial minorities are also ignored in eating disorder research.

Unfortunately, gender isn’t the only aspect harmed by this narrow scope of research: gender diverse identities and racial minorities are also ignored in eating disorder research. This lack of research similarly impacts diagnosis rates, shown in data suggesting that Black teenage girls are underdiag nosed for bulimia nerviosa.7 In regards to seeking and receiving help, studies suggest white women are five times more likely to receive treatment than Black women.8

only

25% 10%

of bulimia and anorexia nerviosa cases are male

of eating disorder patients are male but

Eating disorders do not discriminate by gender, and neither should research or opportunities for treatment.

ample, a 2013 edition of the Diagnos tic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders describes “an absence of three consecutive menstrual cycles”6 as a symptom necessary for the diag nosis of anorexia nerviosa. Despite a later edition of this manual eliminating certain gender-based criteria, eating disorders are still predominantly re searched in women.

⁵ Strother, Eric, Raymond Lemberg, Stevie Chariese Stanford, and Dayton Turberville. “Eat ing Disorders in Men: Underdiagnosed, Under treated, and Misunderstood.” NCBI, September 17, 2012.

⁶ Meade, Nicolas and Ross-Nash, Zoe, “Eating Disorders in Underrepresented Male Popula tions,” Society for the Advancement of Psycho therapy, February 2021.

“Eating disorders: About 626,000,000 results (0.56 seconds).” In this aspect, Google is right. The spread of eat ing disorders is nearly limitless, just like the different groups impacted by them. The research and diagnosis of these disorders must expand from its currently narrow, gendered scope. Eat ing disorders can impact anyone, and everyone deserves an equal opportu nity at diagnosis and recovery.

■

⁷ Goeree, Michelle Sovinsky, Ham, John C., and Iorio, Daniela, “Race, Social Class, and Bulimia Nervosa,” SSRN, July, 4, 2011.

⁸ Conason, Alexis. “Eating Disorder Treatment May Be Failing Black Women.” Psychology Today, September 23, 2020.

JUST MERCY:

A STORY OF JUSTICE AND REDEMPTION

MORE THAN A MODERN-DAY ATTICUS FINCH

Written by Maya Greenberg, New Members Director

Graphic by Alexa Kantor, Staff Graphic Artist

In1983, Bryan Stevenson was a 23-year-old Harvard law student with bright eyes and little job experience.

After taking on an internship in Georgia, he was sent unaccompanied to the State’s death row to tell an incarcerated man that he would not be executed in the upcoming year. Stevenson felt guilty that he could not offer the inmate, Henry, any assistance of counsel. To his surprise, Henry was grateful. He told Stevenson that since there wasn’t an impending execution date, he finally felt comfortable having his wife and kids visit. About this encounter, Stevenson writes in his book, “Henry altered something in my understanding of human potential, redemption and hopefulness.”

Set against the backdrop of the appeal of Walter McMillian, an innocent Black man in Alabama wrongfully convicted of the murder of a white woman and sentenced to death, “Just Mercy: A Story of Justice and Redemption” is a heartwrenching recollection of Ste venson’s experience working in the legal nonprofit sector. The book fol lows Stevenson’s journey as he goes from a struggling young lawyer to the visionary founder of a nonprofit firm, Equal Justice Initiative, and finally, to the Supreme Court, where he contrib uted to the 2005 ruling that the Eighth Amendment to the U.S. Constitution protects against life imprisonment without parole for juveniles. On the whole, “Just Mercy’’ is Stevenson’s tes tament to the potential of mercy in a cruel and unjust system.

This memoir begs the reader to ex amine the justice system more closely and face the uncomfortable truths that continue to plague the lives of minori ties and the indigent across the coun try. Stevenson hones in on the death

penalty in particular and how it dispro portionately affects poor individuals of color. Since 1976, people of color have disproportionately made up 43% of all executions.1 Those living in poverty are also harmed in significant dispropor tion due to the lack of legal representa tion and resources. As Attorney Steve Bright explains to Stevenson, “capital punishment means them without the capital get the punishment.”2

The main subject of the memoir, exo neree Walter McMillian, was arrested and convicted of the 1986 murder of a white woman named Ronda Morrison.3 Despite the State having absolutely no evidence—other than a testimony

In America, an innocent Black person is seven times more likely than an in nocent white person to be wrongfully convicted of murder.4 Wrongfully con victed Black people will also spend 4.5 more years in jail before exoner ation than their white counterparts.

“Just Mercy” sheds further light on cases like that of Walter McMillian, where the defendant faces prejudice in every step of the process, from in vestigation to appeal.

Along with the flagrantly unjust cas es, “Just Mercy” forces the reader to reconcile the tension between mercy and retribution. In 1989, a 28-year-old Black man named Michael Lindsey

In America, an innocent Black person is seven times more likely than an innocent white person to be wrongfully convicted of murder.

given by a man who was being investi gated for another murder (later found to be forcibly coerced)—McMillian was sentenced to death. The trial lasted only a day and a half.

¹ “Race and the Death Penalty,” ACLU, 2021.

² Bryan Stevenson, “Just Mercy: A Story of Jus tice and Redemption,” Spiegel and Grau, Oct. 21, 2014.

³ Kevin Weber, “Walter McMillian,” The National Registry of Exonerations, Sept. 18, 2014.

was executed by an electric chair in Alabama.5 Convicted of murdering a 63-year-old white woman, his guilt was not in question before or after his ex ecution. Stevenson includes this case not to further prove that the system

⁴ Daniele Selby, “8 Facts You Should Know About Racial Injustice in the Criminal Legal System,” Innocence Project, Feb. 2, 2021.

⁵ Rob Warden, “Book review: ‘Just Mercy: A Story of Justice and Redemption’ by Bryan Stevenson,” The Washington Post, Oct. 23, 2014.

can be erroneous in its convictions— although it certainly can—but rather to show that Black defendants face disproportionate severity in their sen tencing when the victim is white. While this point may be moot to those who desire no justice for convicted mur derers, Stevenson argues that “we all need mercy, we all need justice and— perhaps—we all need some measure of unmerited grace.”6

While Stevenson’s work is incredibly impressive on its face, it gains more credit when the obstacles of achiev ing justice are put into context. Public defenders and nonprofit lawyers are overworked and underpaid. They also face a continual uphill battle against a system that does not only have in stances of injustice but is based entire ly on it.

Even after Walter McMillian’s inno cence was made clear and he was exonerated, little was done in terms

6. Bryan Stevenson, “Just Mercy: A Story of Justice and Redemption,” Spiegel and Grau, Oct. 21, 2014.

of broader compensatory justice. The sheriff involved in his case faced no repercussions and has stayed in office for over 25 years. Further, judges faced increased pressure to impose harsh sentences in Alabama, where they’re elected by the community. As Steven son explains, “no judge wants to deal with attack ads that highlight the grisly details of a murder case in which the judge failed to impose the most se vere punishment.”7 Discrimination in the system is multigenerational and is distributed and perpetuated by those with the power.

Although Walter McMillian’s case takes place in Monroeville, Alabama, mirroring that of Harper Lee’s Tom Robinson, Bryan Stevenson is more than his fictional counterpart, Attticus Finch.8 With nothing but hope, perse verance and compassion, Stevenson pushed for and created a fundamental change in a fundamentally unjust sys 7. Ibid.

8. Alan W. Clarke, “Book Review - Just Mercy: A Story of Justice and Redemption,” NLG Review, accessed Oct. 2021.

tem—yet there is still work to be done.

“Just Mercy” brings the reader out of their comfort zone and forces them to consume harsh truths that they may otherwise ignore. For this reason, I be lieve it is one of the most important and influential pieces of work for in dividuals of our generation. The parts that may be hardest to digest, such as the stories of multiple lives being ruined by false convictions and unjust rulings, are the parts that are most im portant for us to face head-on. More than anything, this memoir reiterates the importance of human kindness and redemption.

As Stevenson describes, “Mercy is most empowering, liberating, and transfor mative when it is directed at the un deserving. The people who haven’t earned it, who haven’t even sought it, are the most meaningful recipients of our compassion.”9 ■

9. Ibid.