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Team EDITOR IN CHIEF Eva-Delilah Wieland DEPUTY EDITOR Cassie Hurwitz ART DIRECTOR Lauren Chung WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE DIRECTOR Fernanda Martinez Rodriguez WUD PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE ADVISOR Jen Farley
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Ellie Braun ARTS CURATOR Channing Smith CREATIVE DIRECTORS Geordon Wollner Reilly Koch FASHION EDITOR Brooke Komas LIFESTYLE EDITOR Molly Rapozo
WUD PRESIDENT Mills Botham
CULTURE EDITOR Haidee Chu
ON THE COVER Alyssa Roca by Geordon Wollner
ARTS EDITOR Naomi Gallagher
SPECIAL THANKS TO The Break
SOCIAL MEDIA AND MARKETING LIAISON Lindsey Young
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STAFF WRITERS Elise Andersen Katie Herrick Marin Smith CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Abbey Meyer MODELS Alyssa Roca Becca Henningsen Brooke Komas Payton Udo AND FAITH CHAMPA ART Channing Smith Ryan Prehara PHOTOGRAPHY Elise Andersen Geordon Wollner Molly Rapozo
Table of Contents
September 2018
ARTS
CULTURE
18 Get Up, Stand Up Protest art and music in the age of Trump
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Instagrammable Art The pros and cons of photo-op ready exhibitions
LIFESTYLE 05 Self-Empowerment More than a trend 06
Rising from the Ashes Steps to make a comeback
08 Fresh Fall Faces From bold red lips to blue-lined lids, runaway-inspired makeup looks for fall 10
‘Crazy Rich Asians’ Review Spoiler: it isn’t really all about crazy rich Asians
FASHION 33
Air of Comparison: Travel Style in the Instagram Era
FEATURED 25
True Blue Above reality
11 Divine
Rise and Shine Sleeping your way to your best self
20 Browsing the History of the Brow From silent movie stars to supermodels
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN… WILL GO BACK UP AGAIN Like many things in the universe, our lives work in cycles — ups and downs, ebbs and flows. At our peaks, we are unstoppable. At our valleys, it seems there is no escape. Yet, again and again, life comes around. Why then do we become consumed at the extremes? As a MindBody instructor, I have been leading mindfulness and yoga for years. Just this summer, however, I began taking regular meditation classes as a participant. There, an idea dawned on me: the necessary balance of control and trust as we find peace in our cycles. When it comes to variations in our confidence, creativity,
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happiness, successes or external manifestations, we can, to an extent, take action to maintain or improve our status. From being mindful about your sleep routine, to challenging society through art, to embracing opportunities for travel and inspiration, this issue provides you with a few of our favorite ways to stay on the rise. However, as we gear ourselves toward constant improvements, there are some things that are beyond our control. It is then when our task becomes the most daunting of all—trusting that because we are good people, life will be magnificent. As overwhelming as it feels to
step into the stylish shoes of the girl boss EICs before me, I am so excited to see what the ebbs and flows of Moda will bring this year. There will certainly be late nights of editing with coffee in hand and Deputy Editor Cassie by my side, hours of email coordination and my share of mistakes. However, I am even more eager for the powerful content, collaboration and growth of our beloved magazine. I trust this campus, I trust our staff and I trust the goodness in us all. xoxo, Eva
LIFESTYLE
S ELF - E MPOWE R ME NT MORE THAN A TREND BY ABBEY MEYER, CONTRIBUTING WRITER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOLLY RAPOZO
Trends shift almost as fast as the minds of those who set them. Between the return of 70s era fashion to the behavior of White House officials, it seems as though the barrier to change in our society today is all but transparent. One trend appearing on social media lately involves the idea of selfempowerment, particularly taking action to change your life for the better. Gone are the days of selfloathing and romanticizing self-hatred for comedic effect. As quoted by a few popular tweets, “It’s 2018, we’re loving ourselves now.” Today, tweets are surfacing on timelines around the world with content about removing toxic people, making more space for yourself and taking a break from others to reset. Though this kind of progress may seem beneficial to the lives of, frankly, everyone, one must ask: is it wrong to reduce the idea of mental health to a trend? What happens when the idea of self-empowerment no longer reels in retweets and a new trend fills the void? Between the influencers of Instagram, to popular meme accounts on Twitter, now is a confusing and stressful time to be an impressionable young adult. The pressure to wear the right clothes, have the right hairstyle or even laugh at the right things has only caused a decline in the mental health of millennials over the past 10 years. Anxiety has quickly climbed to be the most common mental illness in
the U.S.—which comes as no surprise given these variables. The vast world of social media, while a good tool to engage with peers, has become the primary source of both entertainment and interaction for a large majority of 15-30 year olds. This constant push of information into the minds of young adults is creating an altered perception of reality. There is much more to life than what picturesque Instagram accounts reveal. However, that reality is diminishing as younger generations spend more and more time on social media sites. The practice of self-empowerment should look beyond these fake realities and involve a recognition and appreciation for life that exists past your Instagram or Facebook profile. Self-empowerment is more than feeling proud of your accolades. It is understanding that as a human you are constantly evolving to adapt to your surroundings. Life is more about trial and error than anything else. Nobody is perfect, despite what the popular page on Instagram may suggest. The importance of this definition of self-empowerment should not be understated or given a shelf life. Selfimprovement boils down to being content with who you are and not letting the opinions of others disrupt that feeling of peace. Self-empowerment recognizes that there is more to be said about life’s journey—that being a human allows
for mistakes. It is perfectly normal to have interests outside of what is “in” or “out” at the time, and it’s okay to change your mind about those interests with time. There is nothing trendy about self-empowerment. As a human, you should be happy and content with your whole self—even if you do not fit the mold set by the latest trend. Whatever drives your passion and makes you feel the most proud of yourself should be the thing you do most often. If you love to paint, invest in that. If you constantly look at fashion influencers on Instagram wishing you could have that same look, find some pieces to spice up your wardrobe. Wear them without worrying if they are trendy or not. Just as baggy mom jeans and funky half moon sunglasses are returning to popular fashion, so can the carefree attitudes and self love that were so dearly missed in the first 15 years of the millenium. The basis of self empowerment truly relies on your value of yourself and your ability to choose your attitude towards life— regardless of the situation. Through all the memes and constant bombardment of information floating around the internet, a majority of us exist living everyday lives. By giving up the idea that you owe a specific version of yourself to anyone, you finally can find peace and clear your conscience of negativity—a feeling that may be the most empowering of all.
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LIFESTYLE
RISING FROM THE ASHES SOMETIMES WE JUST NEED TO TAKE SOME STEPS TO MAKE A COMEBACK IN LIFE
BY KATIE HERRICK, LIFESTYLE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
BY KATIE HERRICK, LIFESTYLE EDITORIAL ASSISTANT PHOTO COURTESY OF UNSPLASH 6 MODA
Life is hard, and at times, we feel beaten down to our core. Sometimes we need a new beginning, and sometimes we need to make those beginnings ourselves. Whether you are heading back to classes, an internship or starting real “adult” life this fall, there are a few things you can practice to make a comeback in life. Like a phoenix, you will rise from the ashes—for no one but yourself.
MOVE ON FROM PAST FAILURES The only way to make the best of a failure is not to dwell on it, but to learn from it. Whatever has happened is over, and there is no going back to change it. You can look at the situation, what happened and who was involved in order to grow from there.
within reach. Visualize exactly what you want and tell yourself that you can achieve it. Studies have shown that spending time visualizing our successes and how that feels might make it easier to achieve them.1 The more we manifest and visualize our goals, the more we will master the skill, and the closer we will get to success.
SET SMART GOALS Everyone sets goals, but they can often be slightly unachievable. A trick to goal-setting: make SMART goals. Specific, measurable, attainable, realistic and timely.2 If you approach goal setting with these qualities in mind, there is a much higher chance that you will achieve it. Making the goal specific, such as not just aiming for good grades but rather “straight
Waited until the last minute to study and then failed the test? Work on setting goals to start studying sooner and manage your time better. The hardest part of failing is accepting the situation for what it is. Maybe the outcome you were hoping for was not achieved, but that does not mean it can never be reached. You might make a cake and burn it. From that point, you can accept that the cake is burnt and you can try making it again. Examine why it burnt—maybe the the oven was set too high—and next time try with a lower temp. Failures help build success when we learn from them and take action towards the next outcome.
VISUALIZE TO ACTUALIZE In attempts to make ourselves feel better if goals do not work out, we can get trapped by defense mechanisms that tell us we are incapable of achieving what we want. Thinking this way is part of what makes it all go wrong. Belief in the fact that we can do it, however, creates a sense of determination to accomplish the task and therefore we are much more likely to succeed. If we do fail, we can use the past and learn from the failure in order to improve. This brings manifesting your goals
each goal in this way there is a higher chance you will make them happen.
CONFIDENCE AND ENTHUSIASM As we navigate through our daily lives, we are constantly facing both positive and negative energies. It is up to us which energies we choose to absorb and which we let pass. Mental illnesses and all the -isms—racism, sexism and classism, to name a few— can make this navigation harder, but if we approach life with confidence and enthusiasm, regardless of the task, we are likely to be happier in every way. Doing the dishes, for example, becomes more fun when we stop thinking of it as chore. By shifting our attitudes we have the ability to shift our outcomes. This mindset will help us manifest our dreams and goals.
“ THE HARDEST PART OF FAILING IS ACCEPTING THE SITUATION FOR WHAT IT IS. MAYBE THE OUTCOME YOU WERE HOPING FOR WAS NOT ACHIEVED, BUT THAT DOES NOT MEAN IT CAN NEVER BE REACHED. ”
FIND WHO MAKES YOU HAPPY
B’s,” and making sure you can actually measure the achievability of that goal — in this case with your report card — are the first steps to making sure your goal is achievable. It is also important to analyze whether or not your goal is actually attainable and realistic. Instead of setting one big goal, try setting smaller goals that will help eventually lead to your larger goal. Timelines are the next step for goal setting. “I want straight B’s this fall semester” establishes a specific, attainable period of time to accomplish the goal. Approaching
If something makes you happy, do it! We only live one life and we are supposed to do the things that make us happy and healthy. Love someone? Tell them! Want to never see someone again? Don’t. We often forget that our lives are all for ourselves and that we do not need to please anyone but ourselves.
Afremow, J. (2011, September 13). Visualize to Actualize. Retrieved August 15, 2018. 2 Esposito, E. (2018, July 27). The Essential Guide to Writing S.M.A.R.T. Goals. Retrieved August 15, 2018. 1
I know that it has become somewhat of a joke to cut people out of your life, but in reality, removing people who tear you down consistently will improve your life. We often keep up bad habits or toxic relationships that hurt because we fear the pain that removing them will cause and how the change will affect our lives. Once we are able to detach ourselves from this fear, it opens us to noticeable improvements.
Making changes in our lives is a long and difficult process, but one that is possible for everyone. Small improvements come over time—and that comeback can help to build happiness and peace within ourselves. Humans are not perfect, and life never will be. But, we can work to shed the past, making each day the happiest and best for ourselves.
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FRESH FALL FACES BY ELISE ANDERSEN, LIFESTYLE STAFF WRITER BECCA HENNINGSEN & PAYTON UDO PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELISE ANDERSEN
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FROM BOLD RED LIPS TO BLUE-LINED LIDS, RUNWAY-INSPIRED MAKEUP LOOKS FOR FALL As we soak up the final days of summer sun and pack away our bronzer until next year, the thought of quickly approaching crisp fall weather may not excite us. But have no fear! This fall’s top makeup trends are anything but dull. Bold, colorful makeup dominated Fall 2018 Fashion Week, contrary to what one might expect for fall makeup. Ahead, find this fall’s most daring and unique makeup trends borrowed from the Fashion Week runways. At the Brandon Maxwell show, esteemed makeup artist Tom Pecheux elevated the classic red lip by adding a hint of gold just above the cupid’s bow on models Jourdan Dunn and Bella Hadid. You can rock this twist on a timeless look during your next night out.
colorful eyes, specifically bright blue eyeshadows and eyeliners. Makeup artists noted that they were going for a fresh, revamped version of 80s futuristic pop. At the Chromat show, makeup artist Fatima Thomas used bright blue cream eyeshadows on the upper and lower lash lines for intense definition. This vibrant look can be rocked off the runway by smudging a bright blue eyeliner or cream eyeshadow on the lower lash line, adding a wash of pigment sure to make any eye color pop. Try NARS Velvet Eyeliner in Curacao or Maybelline Eyestudio Color Tattoo Cream Gel Eyeshadow in Tenacious Teal to achieve this eyecatching look.
beautifully with a glamorous makeup look. Either way, these easy, wearable brows can be easily incorporated into your everyday makeup routine. Glitter eyeshadow ruled the runways at NYFW. Models strutted down the catwalk with eyelids coated in shimmer and shine, some even adorned with Swarovski crystals— thank you, Kate Spade and Ulla Johnson. While crystal-embellished eyes may not be everyone’s taste, a more subdued version of the look is wearable for chilly fall nights. A glittery fall eyeshadow palette including shades of plum and navy can embrace everything that autumn has to offer. Applying loose gold and silver glitter to the inner corner and lower lashline makes eyes stand out all night long.
BOLD RED LIPS TO BLUE-LINED LIDS, The eyebrow obsession thatRUNWAYhas taken the beauty world by storm over the past INSPIRED MAKEUPfewLOOKS FOR FALL years is not going away anytime Pecheux began with a cherry red lip liner (M.A.C. Lip Pencil in Cherry) to outline the lips and then, using an eyebrow brush for precision, painted on M.A.C. Retro Matte Liquid Lip Color in Feels So Grand. He stated that this specific lip color is a true red which falls right in the middle of the color’s shade spectrum, guaranteeing it to look flawless on any skin tone. NYX Suede Matte Lip Liner and Lipstick duo in Spicy is the perfect drugstore dupe for this color combination. To give the look a gilded effect, Pecheux outlined the cupid’s bow with a small brush dipped in finely milled gold glitter. To tone down the glamour, try using your favorite highlighter in place of glitter. Finish with a touch of the same glitter or highlighter in the middle of the lower lip. This shimmer provides the illusion of fuller lips without the high cost and commitment of lip injections. Both elegant and interesting, this look is sure to turn heads. Neutrals for fall? Not this year! Spice things up a bit by incorporating bright colors in small doses into your makeup routine. A popular look at NYFW was
soon. Instead, the trend is taking a new turn. In place of defined arches and perfectly-plucked silhouettes, models walked down the runway at NYFW with textured, overgrown brows. At Off-White, models donned bigger-is-better brows that offered a cool, low-maintenance look. Textured brows are more about enhancing your natural eyebrow shape instead of trying to create a perfectly defined and arched brow. Following a one-size-fits-all approach, textured brows can work on any face, regardless of your eyebrow shape. The best way to achieve textured brows is by using a fine-tipped eyebrow pencil, such as Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz, in addition to thickening brow gel in place of a brow pomade. Begin by using an eyebrow comb to comb hairs upward. Using a light hand, fill in sparse areas of your brows with the eyebrow pencil, enough to make them look full. Finish off with a coat of brow gel, like Glossier Boy Brow, to keep those brows in place all day. This look is best paired with minimal face makeup, but also contrasts
Makeup artists at Fashion Week recommend using an eyeshadow primer that reduces excess oil, such as the Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion, when dealing with the shimmery substance. They also opt for a cream eyeshadow base for glitter eyeshadow because it’s easy to blend while also adding extra holding power. Beautiful on any skin tone and eye color, gilded lids are sure to be this fall’s hottest makeup trend. This season’s New York Fashion Week came with a plethora of unique, unexpected makeup looks that can be effortlessly incorporated into your everyday makeup routines or worn on your next night out. Unlike previous fall seasons, this coming fall is all about incorporating unexpected color and making a bold statement through makeup. Not only are these makeup trends far from the ordinary, they are meant to embrace natural features such as your eyebrow shape or eye color. These makeup looks allow you to showcase your favorite features and feel confident while doing so. Fashion Week once again offers more than just fashion inspiration for the upcoming season.
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LIFESTYLE
R IS E A N D SHIN E SLEEPING YOUR WAY TO YOUR BEST SELF BY MOLLY RAPOZO, LIFESTYLE SECTION EDITOR ILLUSTRATION BY CHANNING SMITH There is quite possibly no better feeling than jumping into bed for the night. A long, exhausting day can often only be remedied by hopping into a warm, soft bed. However, falling asleep is an entirely different issue. Our lives, specifically as college students—but also in the world of technology and constant notifications—keep us up at night. According to the Sleep Association,1 50-70 million adults in the U.S. have a sleep disorder of some kind. Meaning, we are not sleeping very well—and when you are not sleeping well, your body suffers severely. Short-term sleep deprivation can cause moodiness, irritability, mental fog, excessive hunger and the simple unpleasantness that comes from being sleepy. The long-term effects—stress to your immune system, worsened symptoms of mental illness, decreased cognitive function and prolonged healing time coming back from illness and injury—are even more worrisome. Lack of sleep is attributed to a wide range of things, circling back to distractions, possible disorders or even too much caffeine at the wrong time of day. Getting down to the main issues of sleep disturbance will not only help you sleep better, but also avoid long-term ailments and increase your overall well-being. Start with looking at your bedtime routine. Do you use your phone or laptop within an hour before bed? Commonly referred to as “blue light,” blue wavelengths are the type of light that can boost attention, “Insomnia: What Are the Symptoms, Causes and Treatments? - American Sleep Association.” American Sleep Assoc. Accessed August 19,
reaction times and mood, according to the Harvard Medical School.2 Our screens emit this blue wavelength, and while it is perfectly safe during the day, it can cause a huge disruption when winding down. Powering down at least an hour before bed, but ideally two or three hours before, proves to be helpful in getting proper rest. If you can’t bear shutting down, utilize your device’s night shift option, which adjusts blue light to warmer, gentler tones. As college students, we are constantly juggling one million tasks throughout the day. It can be hard to avoid, but certain habits that develop from these busy schedules are detrimental to our sleep habits. Eating dinner or any big meals before bed, caffeine late in the day and doing daily work in bed can all wreak havoc on your sleep schedule. Try to eat dinner at a reasonable hour—and if you need to eat before bed, keep it to a small, mild snack. Being gentle to your digestive system before bed helps you fall asleep and stay asleep. As for caffeine—our best friend and biggest enemy—keep that consumption to early afternoon or morning. Caffeine stays in your system for around four to six hours, so when you put it in your body, be mindful of how long it will stay there. Beds are comfortable for a reason, and that reason makes it irresistible
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2018.
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Harvard Health Publishing. “Blue Light Has a Dark Side - Harvard Health.” Harvard Health Blog. Accessed August 19, 2018. https://www. health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/blue-lighthas-a-dark-side. 2
to work from bed. However, if you do work there, your brain associates stress from homework or your job with your bed. Finding a sturdy upright spot to sit, at a desk, a table or even upright on the floor, can help your brain recognize that work is for other places and that your bed is mainly for sleep. Moving into the morning, take a look at what time you wake up. Sleeping in is sometimes very necessary, but establishing a routine wakeup time is crucial to creating a sleep schedule that is regular and balanced. The circadian rhythm, our bodies’ natural clock, follows a consistent pattern—so routine is your friend here. When you wake up at the same time daily, you will most likely get tired around the same time each night, eliminating those terrible hours where you just cannot drift off. Sleep often gets tossed to the wayside in terms of well-being focus. Just as important as eating right and exercising, the right amount of good sleep can make a huge difference in your mood, attention and overall wellness. Take some time to establish good sleep habits and enjoy the benefits—increased fat burn, reduced inflammation, improved immune system functions, to name a few— after some quality zzz’s.
DIVINE CREATIVE DIRECTION & PHOTOGRAPHY BY BROOKE KOMAS, FASHION EDITOR
Velvet, embroidery, and metallics galore; this year’s Met theme, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination, proves more wearable than ever imagined.
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FASHION
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CULTURE
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FASHION
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ARTS
GET UP, STAND UP PROTEST ART AND MUSIC IN THE AGE OF TRUMP WRITTEN BY NAOMI GALLAGHER, ARTS SECTION EDITOR ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN PREHARA Human nature seems to crave the transferral of our grievances into lyrics, canvas or silver screen. Hence, rather unsurprisingly, the ebb and flow of artistic expression tends to correspond flawlessly with our nation’s political climate. Generally, as unrest deepens, it is the propagandic literature, art and music which serve to define an era of resistance more than any other force. Right now, in the midst of a young and immensely controversial presidency, almost all can agree that the “times they are a changin,’” but who exactly are Bob Dylans of today that will anthemize and symbolize these tumultuous times for us? Since President Trump’s inauguration in January of 2017, visual artists have produced an extensive array of powerful expressions of dissent against his policies. Perhaps one of the most poignant collections of antiTrump protest art thus far was curated by the world-renowned street artist Shepard Fairey. Fairey collaborated with photographer Aaron Huey in a project titled We the People with the intent of advocating for the most vulnerable voices of the nation.1 The artists chose to depict women of Latina, Muslim and African American backgrounds, and Fairey explains his artistic decision in an interview with CNN. “We thought (they) were the three groups that had been maybe criticized by Trump and maybe were going to be most, if not necessarily vulnerable in a literal sense, most feeling that their needs would be Bianca Silva, “The Story Behind Shepard Fairey’s Inauguration Protest Posters,” Time, Jan 19th, 2017. 1
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neglected in a Trump administration.”2 The images were a staple of the inauguration protests of 2017 and continue to be recognized as symbols of solidarity today. Visual art of dissent in the age of Trump is not limited to protest banners Stephen Chung, “‘Hope’ artist Shepard Fairey reveals new posters to protest Trump,” CNN, Jan 19th, 2017. 2
on the streets, however. On the one year anniversary of Donald Trump’s inauguration, photographer Indira Cesarine opened the “One Year of Resistance” exhibition in New York City, which showcased multi-media artwork from dozens of artists who criticized many facets of the presidency. The exhibit’s intent was described as “[celebrating] art as activism, giving voices to contemporary artists from
all backgrounds, ages and genders.”3 It is the artist coalitions such as these that often warrant the most fervent reactions, purely as a result of the sense of community and camaraderie they demonstrate. There is strength in numbers, as they say. Taking a dip into the music industry, one can gather that it is not a domain lacking in political outcries either. Rapper Kendrick Lamar has expressed anti-Trump sentiments in songs such as “The Heart Part 4,” in which he writes, “Donald Trump is a chump, know how we feel, punk / Tell ‘em that God comin’ / And Russia need a replay button, y’all up to something.”4 Furthermore, at the 2018 “One Year of Resistance// Group Show //January 16th- February 4th, 2018,” Untitled Space. 4 Rodney Carmichael, “Kendrick Lamar and President Trump Were Two Ships Passing in the 3
CFP National Championship Show, Lamar performed a halftime show, but attendee President Trump fled the scene prematurely, perhaps fearing the crowd’s boisterous response to Lamar’s lyrics.5
a forceful, repetitive chant of, “We don’t want your tiny hands anywhere near our underpants,”7 successfully creating a protest anthem for the women who refuse to tolerate blithe bigotry in their president.
Many other musicians with farreaching audiences have denounced the president through their lyrics. Singer/songwriter Fiona Apple released her song “Tiny Hands” just before the 2017 Women’s March on Washington.6 In reference to Trump’s self-proclaimed sense of entitlement to women’s bodies, the song presents
Hence, if one finds oneself craving inspiration through artistic expressions of civil disobedience, look no further. It would be simply ridiculous to deny that we are surrounded by a flourishing art community that is largely ignited by such divided times. Though it is hard to see history as it is being made, these demonstrations may just be the Woodstocks or Marches on Washington of our time — rallies, songs and paintings upon which we may someday reflect valiantly.
Night,” NPR, January 9th, 2018. 5 Deena Zaru, “Kendrick Lamar brings his political message to college football championship,” CNN, January 9th, 2018. 6 Gil Kaufman, “Fiona Apple Debuts Anti-Trump Song ‘Tiny Hands’ in Honor of Women’s March,” Billboard, January 18th,2017.
“It would be simply ridiculous to deny that we are surrounded by a flourishing art community that is largely ignited by such divided times.” Raisa Bruner, “These 11 Songs Protest Donald Trump in the White House,” Time, January 24th, 2017. 7
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LIFESTYLE
B R OWSIN G T HE HISTORY OF T H E BROW BY CASSIE HURWITZ, DEPUTY EDITOR ILLUSTRATED BY CHANNING SMITH
Like most beauty standards, eyebrows are lopsided. The average man never thinks twice about the shape of the strands, and only recently are male grooming trends coming to light—with minimal plucking as the sole technique. On the other hand, women following conventional beauty standards rotate plucking, waxing, shading and shaping on a daily basis. Trace the practice as far back as possible—from silent movie stars to supermodels—and women’s brows have never ceased to be a point of attention. Brow-story goes back to the earliest forms of manipulating appearances, but the trend’s significant rise and fall jump-started with the dissemination of film. As particular stars grew in popularity, their unique appearances did too. With film including a more widespread audience, plenty of fans joined in on the fun. Meaning, of course, everyone copied the stars’ attractive features. For silent film actresses such as Clara Bow and Mary Pickford, eyebrows were an important way to express emotions and sentiments without the use of language.1 The unnaturally thin, curved shape became iconic because of its unusuality and the dynamic women’s roles, but it originally aided in the understanding of silent stories. Lauren Valenti, “The History of Women and their Eyebrows,” Marie Claire, April 10, 2014. 1
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When film studios introduced talkies, there was less of a need for overly expressive features—but the transition from silent films to dialogue created a gap in which women still plucked thin or exaggerated the arch. Nevertheless, there was greater freedom and power for women because their looks did not have to demonstrate their feelings. Thus, a stronger brow was soon born. Women in the post-war period began to sport thicker, more substantial shapes, spurred on by the most adored actresses of the time.2 Think Audrey and Marilyn, but also Lauren Bacall, Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren. These brows, while considerably less plucked and polished as the earlier style, still constituted a horde of styling tools and time. Aligning with the curve of the trend’s cyclical life, brows bounced back to thin towards the end of the 60s, with favorites like Mia Farrow and Twiggy hinting at what was to come in the 70s. With disco fever abuzz and hair reaching previously undiscovered heights, many stars opted for plucked-thin brows to balance the excess of everything else.3 Disco darling Donna Summer threw back “Brows through the ages: How eyebrow trends have changed over time,” Vogue Australia, March 20, 2018. 3 Marianne Mychaskiw, “A History in Eyebrows: See the Most Popular Brow Shapes Through the Decades,” InStyle, April 28, 2015. 2
to silent stars with a curved brow, but the phase didn’t last long. Counterculture soon soared and so did eyebrows—with women trading tweezers for brow combs. As youth culture surged, rules regarding grooming relaxed to the point where bushy brows became attractive. Coinciding with the end of Hollywood’s classical period, actresses no longer followed one standard trend—just as they had greater freedom due to the death of silent films, 1970s stars had the status to create something new. Love Story’s Ali MacGraw showed off dark, unaffected brows and created a pivotal moment in natural brow history. The 80s expanded on this confidence, with women taking up space in more ways than one. Big hair and shoulder pads are the familiar trends, but brows and brains showed up more than ever before. As women joined the workforce more frequently, their eyebrow styles took flight and broke ties with traditional standards. Icons Madonna and Brooke Shields both avoided tweezers and started a movement.4 Though the previous decade claimed bigger is better, when the 90s rolled Cheryl Wischhover, “The 50 Most Memorable Eyebrows of All Time,” The Cut, September 18, 2014. 4
around, most beloved trends fell flat. Gone were structured suit jackets and volumized hair—women swapped their brightly-colored ensembles for dark, grungy flannels or skin-baring silhouettes. Whatever the trend, women began to recede into the shadows, reversing the previous gains they had made in reminding the world they were there. It makes sense, then, that women plucked their eyebrows into nonexistence during this decade. When trying to shrink the space one takes up, reducing physical features is one way to go. Many were inspired by Drew Barrymore’s infamous—and now highly regrettable—ultra-thin brows in her 90s film roles.5 While the mystery of this decision remains unsolved, Beth Shapouri, “Here’s Why Thin Eyebrows Were So Hot in the ‘90s,” Glamour, November 24, 2015. 5
there’s no question that it began an era of daily tweezing. As the fads of the 90s slowly disappeared—taking down jelly shoes and butterfly clips in the process— twig thin brows stopped seeming so alluring. But because of the pitfalls of continuous tweezing, many found themselves with brows that wouldn’t grow back to their full glory. Hence, the beginning of the new millennium saw thin eyebrows that were trying to make a comeback but struggled to rise to the occasion. Luckily, a decade and many eyebrow pencils later, big brows returned. Within the last few years, styling eyebrows to be sharp, bold and in control has dominated the industry. Not only are brows thicker and more face-framing, but they are also meticulously filled in with powders,
gels, pencils and pomades, arched to perfection and outlined with concealer to make the edges razor sharp. No longer can one simply comb through the hairs or fill in the gaps—brows need to be a five-step process, minimum. Some men are beginning to jump on the brow bandwagon, using combs, gels and tweezers to tame their unruly face-framers. As the trend of men wearing makeup takes flight, intense brow grooming has become an allaround phenomenon. The path of women’s eyebrows may seem trivial at best, but examined more closely, it is evident that the shape of the trend gently follows women’s journey to occupy as much space as possible. Although the curve is rising and falling, the general direction is upward. That’s worth raising an eyebrow to.
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CULTURE
FILM REVIEW: CRA
THE LACK OF COLLECTIVE IDENTITY AMONG ASIAN AMERICANS INS WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED BY HAIDEE CHU, CULTURE EDITOR “China is a sleeping giant. Let her lie and sleep, for when she awakens she will shake the world.” Crazy Rich Asians cites Napoleon Bonaparte in its opening before transitioning into a London hotel lobby on a rainy night in 1995. Eleanor Young (Michelle Yeoh), accompanied by her son Nick (Henry Golding) and her family, asks the receptionist and manager that they be directed to a suite she had reserved and the hotel confirmed—only to be denied access and asked to seek accomodation in Chinatown. A composed Eleanor returns soon to the embrace of the hotel owner, who demands the receptionist show Eleanor her way. “Is this the moment of awakening we’ve been waiting for?” I wondered. “The moment when a blatant instance of injustice be condemned on the big screen?” After all, Crazy Rich Asians, based on Kevin Kwan’s best-selling book, is the first Hollywood film to feature an all Asian-American cast since Joy Luck Club in 1993. Turns out, Eleanor has just convinced her husband to purchase the hotel, and uses her newfound power to ask the receptionist who rejected her and her family to clean up mud on the floor they’ve dragged in with them from the storm. “Yes,” I thought initially. “How the tables have turned!” An awe-inspiring, powerful, intimidating gesture, it certainly is; an experience relatable to an audience that is already inundated with racist remarks, it also is. Unequivocal is Eleanor’s reclamation of agency and right to space from the clutches of xenophobia. But
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unequivocal at the same time is the cruel truth that sometimes only tremendous wealth can buy occasional respites from the indignities of racism—and that sometimes in the process, the victims of injustice in one context unconsciously transform into the enforcer thereof in another. This intersectional power dynamic existing within and among factions of the Asian diaspora, albeit underexplored and overshadowed in the rest of the film by luxury galore, is at the heart of what Crazy Rich Asians seeks to strike at.
DIVERSITY WITHIN ASIAN DIASPORA
THE
Creators of Crazy Rich Asians turned down a Netflix deal1 to ensure that the film gets its time in Hollywood, and director Jon M. Chu bears the weight of the expectation of a production that resonates with the diverse Asian American community. But in the face of an America that’s largely unfamiliar with the nuances of Asian American life, Chu bears, too, the responsibility of laying out the basic context and reality of living in Asian America—a world that, although shows solidarity, itself often lacks a collective narrative because of distinct cultural differences and entangled political dynamics throughout history. Sun, Rebecca, and Rebecca Ford. “The Stakes Are High for ‘Crazy Rich Asians’ - And That’s the Point.” The Hollywood Reporter. August 20, 2018. Accessed September 10, 2018. 1
The challenge Chu faces here, then, is not in deciding whether the stories of one diaspora are more worthy of the spotlight than the others, but in deciding how best to craft a collective narrative when there lacks one. It seems that he battles whether to draw out the nuances of a common experience by focusing on a small portion of the grand Asian diaspora, or to present a sample platter of Asian American experience at the risk of telling nothing substantial at all.
AZY RICH ASIANS
SPIRES A LUKEWARM EXPLORATION OF MONEY AND POWER
Crazy Rich Asians lands right in the middle; it attempts the impossible job of extracting a plethora of identities—a pan-Asian narrative— from just one ethnic group of the grand diaspora. At its face, it’s a story about opulence. Dig deeper, and at the heart of the story lies an articulation of power struggle and hierarchies akin to those imposed upon and among the Asian diaspora.
NAVIGATING A MATERIAL WORLD
Perhaps in hopes of both illustrating those hidden nuances and translating an eclectic, multi-dimensional narrative into a unified one, Chu spotlights the material culture of a romanticized version of Singapore— one filled with Chanel handbags, designer wear and emerald rings. This is similar to the ways in which Italian Americans, according to EuroAmerican history expert Simone Cinotto,2 turn to consumer culture to empower a collective identity. The realities of the socioeconomic hierarchy that inevitably underscore the material world become the entry point through which Asians of various nationalities and ethnicities may seek resonance. But, by focusing mostly on the “crazy rich” (to be a fair, this is a limitation set by Kwan’s book), Chu sacrifices the nuances that contribute to the diversity and history of various Asian diasporas. We see Crazy Rich Asians scratch the surface of these nuances in Eleanor’s disapproval of Rachel Chu (Constance Wu), Nick’s girlfriend and an NYU economics professor. Eleanor’s distaste is shown when Ah Ma (Lisa Lu), Nick’s paternal grandmother, discovers Rachel’s mother to be a single mother who has immigrated to New York City’s Chinatown. For instance, Southeast and South Asians—Malays, Filipinos, Thais, Vietnameses, Indians, etc.—are seen Cinotto, Simone, ed. Making Italian America: Consumer Culture and the Production of Ethnic Identities. NEW YORK: Fordham University. 2
in Crazy Rich Asians laboring for the Youngs. Although a frank depiction of a reality that exists in many Asian cosmopolitan cities, the film falls short in articulating the sociopolitical forces that contributed to such ethnic social hierarchy. It neglects to mention how Singapore has historically favored its Chinese demographic by prioritizing Chinese schools, language and traditions,3 and how history of that sort, along with American immigration and social structures, inevitably relates to the fact that the fastest growing wealth gap in America today is among its Asian demographic4. Often, these gaps are exacerbated by internalized self-discrimination and perceived ideological differences, perhaps ingrained through personal experiences or colonialism, as we see Eleanor do upon Rachel. The images that reflect social hierarchies within and among Asian countries and diasporas are inserted into the film as simple matters of facts that are independent from Asian and Asian American history—when in fact they are intricately linked. But this, too, is symptomatic of Hollywood’s general lack of coverage on classism and diversity within racial groups. Crazy Rich Asians nonetheless dismantles certain stereotypes permeating and affecting the Asian American community. Discussions about poverty affecting east Asian
Tan, Cher. “What Privilege Looks Like in Singapore.” Vice. January 07, 2017. Accessed September 10, 2018. https://www.vice.com/en_id/article/ gvqa59/what-privilege-looks-like-in-singapore 4 Kochhar, Rakesh, and Anthony Cilluffo. “Income Inequality in the U.S. Is Rising Most Rapidly Among Asians.” Pew Research Center’s Social & Demographic Trends Project. July 12, 2018. 3
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Americans5 often lack in discourse about the model minority myth— this myth creates a stereotype out of Asian American success while neglecting and undermining the challenges Asian Americans face— but the film makes a point to include Rachel’s mother’s rugged Chinatown story and the discrimination she recieves because of that. Whereas stereotypes and mainstream images often judge Asian men as undesirable and Asian women as submissive, Crazy Rich Asians makes Nick the handsome subject of popular pursuit, and Rachel and Eleanor resilient feminines and strategic power players. The film empowers by enforcing the tale that grit and grace can sometimes win you longsought acceptance from those who disapprove and discriminate.
consistently discriminatory immigration policies? Is Eleanor’s criticism of Rachel’s American Dream a defense of filial piety and the Chinese Dream,6 or is it classism internalized through Ah Ma’s spite for her own class origin, through ideals maintained by Western colonizers or through in-group ideological divides? We can’t begin to fathom; we don’t know their backstories.
that Asians, too, can be charismatic on the silver screen. It articulates the intersection of class and identity and documents a culture in translation, albeit cautiously hidden underneath a veil of decadence, revealing itself only to people who resonate with the reality that is subtly presented behind the film’s exuberant facade. It plays safe by focusing on the glitz and glam, fearing that a failure would set Asian representation in Hollywood back to the time when white people played Asian characters with their eyes taped back, when Emma Stone played a character of quarter Chinese and quarter Native Hawaiian descent in the 2015 film Aloha, when Scarlett Johansson played a Japanese character in the 2017 film Ghost in a Shell—simply because the image of Asian artists “doesn’t sell.”
“ CRAZY RICH ASIANS IS VERY MUCH LIKE A METAPHOR FOR THE MODEL MINORITY MYTH ITSELF. IT IS A DEMONSTRATION AND CONFRONTATION OF HOW EASILY GRANDEUR AND WEALTH DIVERT ATTENTION FROM THE STORY THAT ACTUALLY MATTERS, THE LATTER OF WHICH RELIES ON THE FORMER TO CREATE AN OPPORTUNITY TO WEAVE IN AN OVERLOOKED NARRATIVE PROVING THAT ASIANS, TOO, CAN BE CHARISMATIC ON THE SILVER SCREEN. “
Still, glamor galore leaves us wondering. The images that reflect social hierarchies within and among Asian countries and diasporas are inserted into the film as simple matters of facts that are independent from Asian and Asian American history—when in fact they are intricately linked. Does the Youngs’ success symbolize the reclamation of agency and capital after fleeing an repressive regime that took over China? Is the wealth gap we observe between the Chus and the Youngs supposed to reflect the socioeconomic consequences of China’s emerging wealth and power since it opened its economy to the world in the late 1970s; or does it also have to do with the generational economic difference between immigrant age cohorts, effected by different but nonetheless “Working But Poor: Asian American Poverty in New York City.” Asian American Federation. 5
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ASIAN AMERICANS HOLLYWOOD
IN
Crazy Rich Asians is very much like a metaphor for the model minority myth itself. It is a demonstration and confrontation of how easily grandeur and wealth divert attention from the story that actually matters, the latter of which relies on the former to create an opportunity to weave in an overlooked narrative proving “Background: Connotations of Chinese Dream.” China Daily. Accessed September 10, 2018. 6
So, for those who are unfamiliar with the history of the Chinese diaspora and the grand Asian diaspora, the film comes off as yet another ragsto-riches Cinderella story, although this time laced with trinkets of Chinese traditions and practices that bring joy and tears to those whose lives are defined by them. Still, implicit in its inadequacy is the diaspora’s struggle for a collective narrative, the lack of mainstream understanding of the basic contexts of Asian America and the lack of opportunity in popular culture to articulate them. Crazy Rich Asians shakes the the world with glamour. Still, its true spirit lies idle and asleep. The day of the sleeping giant’s awakening is yet to come, but we are counting down the days.
true blue
ALYSSA ROCA PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORDON WOLLNER GRAPHIC ELEMENTS BY REILLY KOCH CREATIVE DIRECTION BY GEORDON WOLLNER & REILLY KOCH CLOTHING PROVIDED BY THE BREAK @shopthebreak is located at 82 Dobbin Street, Brooklyn, NY
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FASHION
AIR O F CO MPA R I SON TRAVEL STYLE IN THE INSTAGRAM ERA BY BROOKE KOMAS, FASHION EDITOR We’ve all been there; dreaming of far off places while scrolling mindlessly through perfectly curated Instagram feeds. The platform’s most distinguished fashion influencers spent the summer jet-setting to cities most of us only see in photographs: Positano, Mykonos and Capri, to name a few. We live vicariously through shots of ruffled floral dresses and striped bathing suits, so when opportunities arise to indulge in travels of our own, virtual storytelling takes on an elevated importance. This past spring, I studied abroad in Milan, Italy, an experience that ignited style inspiration like no other. In August, I returned to Italy for my close friend’s wedding in the picturesque town of Lake Como (wedding destination of John Legend and Chrissy Teigen, and a favorite of George and Amal Clooney). Planning the week-long trip left me buzzing with excitement and brought forth a daunting question; what will I wear?
myself composing looks based on how I thought others would react rather than how they made me feel. If wearing a lemon print dress to explore the romantic Venetian canals inspires you, fantastic—but are we evolving our fashion choices solely to elicit positive reactions from those around us? At times, I’ve been so intent on taking part in the influencer community that I’ve lost sight of my own creative identity. Fashion and personal style allow us to stand out, to express ourselves where words fall short. These creative outlets encourage us to tell uniquely captivating stories, to give others glimpses of who we are and who we want to be. Although documenting beautiful experiences adds
to the challenge and excitement of traveling, remember to live unapologetically in the moments that go unseen. In essence, wear pieces that uplift you regardless of their Instagram performance potential. Remember how arriving in a new place made you feel rather than judging the days by the quality of your camera roll. After all, sharing moments with supportive communities can elongate the fond memory of a killer outfit, but only you can choose to be present in the life you’re in.
Although sharing fashion through social media can be empowering, the current culture of comparison increases the pressure to capture Instagram-able moments, especially when traveling. Photography started out as a vehicle to share my outfits and quickly transformed into an unparalleled passion of mine. The thrill of envisioning a composition and seeing it come to life is like no other. However, I recently found
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IN STAGRAMM ABLE AR T THE PROS AND CONS OF PHOTO-OP READY EXHIBITIONS WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED BY MARIN SMITH, ARTS EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Scrolling, scrolling, scrolling. It seems to be all that we do these days, especially when it comes to apps like Facebook and Instagram. However, whether we realize it or not, our scrolling has an impact on much more than our own realms—it has extended into the world of art. More specifically, certain facets of the modern art world are adapting to Instagram to the point where not only are exhibitions designed for premier photo ops, but they are also created specifically for the user to experience while Instagramming. Be it through live streaming, using the Boomerang feature or simply posting a photo with the exhibit’s hashtag, Instagrammable art has made its way into the feeds of almost everyone. These Instagrambased installations have rather massive implications—both positive and negative— on already existing art, artists’ Instagram profiles and the museum industry. You may be wondering just what an Instagram-ready art installation looks like. If you haven’t already been to one, you’ve probably seen a few in your feed without realizing it. The Madison Museum of Contemporary
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Art held an installation last spring that received a lot of attention, with tickets selling out almost immediately. The event, titled CHROMA, was a multi-sensory exhibition that explored the intersections of smell, taste, color and touch, all while being designed aesthetically for the avid
Instagrammer. From walls of colorful streamers and technicolor lighting to one-of-a-kind cocktails for enjoyment in specifically paired rooms, the MMoCA really put on a show. In the days following the event, “#chroma” blew up Madison-area Instagrams.
Another well-attended Instagram exhibition is the travelling Museum of Ice Cream (MOIC), whose colorful and engaging sprinkle pools, monochromatic pink walls and giant cherries consistently make for the perfect photo shoot. The MOIC has gained so much internet popularity in the US that it is now one of the most Instagrammed installations, with over 170,000 hashtagged posts.1 It may seem that these exhibitions were visually stimulating on their own and the Instagram aspect was simply a result of the heavy social media usage in modern America. However, the reality is that an increasing number of artists and museums are taking social media into account. They are changing the way art itself is created and presented, making it more accessible to the Instagram user. With all of this said, what are the implications of this new sensation? The most immediate boundary broken is that of geography; the experience of being at a certain exhibit is traditionally defined by one’s geographic location and ability to enter the museum. With heavily Budge, Kylie, Suess, Adam, “Instagram is Changing the Way We Experience Art,” World Economic Forum, February 2018. 1
Instagrammable events, however, the work of the exhibitions transcends geography and time in its accessibility to people all over the world, at all hours of the day, through their phones. By broadening the audience, this process effectively earns the artist more feedback and attention while also incorporating the general public more. Through hashtagging, tagging and commenting, not only can the audience easily find the artist and their work, but they can also track down similar content, bringing popularity to a wider array of artists. For those who do get to to view the exhibition in person, the ability to Instagram the art adds an entirely new dimension to the artistic experience. Now, the viewer gets to enjoy going to the exhibition and viewing the art, and they also get to interact with it by smiling, posing and/or photographing it. By photographing the art in a unique manner and posting it publicly, the viewer is essentially creating their own art and sharing it with the world. In turn, the works permeate on a global scale, creating thousands of new micro-experiences every time a different Instagram user views an image of them. These new layers and dimensions transcend any previous type of human artistic experience. They ultimately give both the artists and viewers agency and authority in their own experience with the art, as well as its interaction with their personal social media profiles. However, as expected, with every progression comes negatives. One of the most obvious downfalls of Instagram-geared art is the fact that seeing art through a screen may create a different, and ultimately lesser, impact than seeing it in person. The minimization of an artistic experience by viewing it on a social media platform may lessen the punch intended by the artists and their vision
for the work, thus misrepresenting it to a certain degree. Instagram is often used as a way to pass the time rather than a conscious avenue for active consumption of art. When one goes to an art museum, it is with the specific intent to view and respect the work, but when one scrolls through Instagram, it can simply be a way to avoid awkward interactions while waiting in line to order a latte. It also may be considered elitist to assume that the “best” way to consume and create art is through
“ INSTAGRAM HAS MANAGED TO SHATTER NEARLY ALL OF THESE BOUNDARIES AND ALLOW FOLLOWERS TO ACCESS MORE ART, MORE EASILY. ” the orthodox and often inaccessible manner of seeing it firsthand. Regardless, the distracted nature of social media consumption may be disrespectful to artists’ work and may alter their original intent. Times are changing and people are adapting to what is popular, so artists may now feel incentivised to create something that can easily go viral rather than creating something with solely their own expression in mind.
often detract attention from classic, more traditional art museums that deserve just as much respect as modern photo-op based exhibitions. Classic exhibitions often ban photography due to the potential of harming the work via flash and accidental damage that may occur when viewers try to pose with it. There has been an increase in damage done to masterpieces by museumgoers attempting to capture the perfect photo.2 With exhibits that don’t allow photography, there may be a lessening of excitement surrounding pieces that deserve more attention. Without seeing classical pieces online as readily as Instagram-curated works, these non-photographable pieces are less accessible to younger generations. So, the rise of highly accessible art through Instagram may create an imbalance between the types of art to be represented more regularly on a public platform. Overall, Instagram has a significant impact on the artistic experience, even when it isn’t used. Though hashtagging and following may bring more attention to a wide array of art, the rise in Instagramgeared art exhibitions comes with as many downfalls as it does fun photoops. Regardless, the consumption of art is often influenced by geographic location, funding, accessibility and awareness; Instagram has managed to shatter nearly all of these boundaries and allow followers to access more art, more easily. So, the next time you find yourself reveling in an exhibit and pull out your phone to snap a pic, think about the implications. Will this align with or detract from the artist’s intent? Was the exhibit curated with Instagram in mind, or will my photograph detract meaning from the art? In any case, I encourage you to participate responsibly and actively in art, wherever you might find it. Budge, Kylie, “Objects in Focus: Museum Visitors and Instagram”, Wiley Periodicals, March 2017. 2
Further,
Instagram-ready
exhibits
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