Modeliste magazine October 2015 by Modeliste Magazine

High Society with

SHIVA SAFAI GLOBAL STYLE

How to live out of a suitcase

FALL’S MOST

GLAMOROUS GETAWAYS

Jetset Style

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

The

Wanderers Fall is upon us, and with it comes the urge to explore new horizons and distant vistas. The October issue of Modeliste celebrates an incredible journey which merges travel and fashion in their own mystical, fantasy mix. Travel evokes an element of surprise and spontaneity; a spirit of playful adventure. The experiential traveler of today is interested in going deeper in a destination, having fulfilling, hands-on experiences, connecting with locals in a meaningful way, and being awed by exclusive access. As we round up our favorite Fall Getaways, we also bring you insider access to some of the most glamorous hotels, practical expert packing advice and wardrobe must-haves, carry-on beauty essentials, and chic airport looks that keep you looking stylish and fresh even at 30,000 feet. Our jetsetting Cover Model, Shiva Safai with her air of timeless elegance, grace and a radiant sophistication shares her beauty and style secrets, fashion go-to’s, favorite travel hot spots and invites us inside the exquisite “House of Hadid” with her fiance, Mohammad Hadid sharing how they fell in love at first sight and what’s next on the horizon for the stunning model. For all of our voyage seeking fashionistas, whether you’re planning a big getaway or have a serious case of wanderlust and enthusiastic curiosity for the world around you, our Travel issue is here to help. Which direction will your GPS lead you next? Welcome to the issue. Welcome to Modeliste. Amy McCabe Editor-in-Chief

amy 8

OCTOBER 2015

Publisher & Editor-in-Chief AMY MCCABE

Executive Managing Editor JILL WINKLER

Art Director DARA DENYSYK Contributing Graphic Designer DREA ACHACOSO Online Graphic Designer MEILANI COTTRELL

International Marketing EDWINA WOODS Contributing Photographers JIM JORDAN BRETT ERICKSON DOMINIC PETRUZZI Videography Director BRETT ERICKSON Online Director JEN CARLSON Multi-Media Director CHRISTOPHER LONG CAPISCO MARKETING Digital Director SHANNON DANNETELLE Contributing Fashion Editor JOEY THAO Contributing Beauty Editors GUIDO PALAU GARRET GERVAIS BRITTANY CHAMBERS NIKI METZ Senior Travel Editor-at-Large & Director of Mode with Meaning LYNNE CHIZZICK Travel Editor MICHAEL MCCABE Cover Model SHIVA SAFAI

Coach Travel Luggage Set, coach.com.

OCTOBER 2015

IN EVERY ISSUE

8 10 14

Letter from the Editor

#TheModeList: Editor’s Travel Style Picks

Model Diaries: Shiva Safai

Masthead

SPECIAL FASHION FEATURES

FIRST CLASS FASHION

Photographs by Jared Thomas Kocka

BEAUTY BOX 22

Travel Makeup Bag Must-Have from minis to multi-taskers, what you need to pack

5 Favorite Globally Inspired Beauty Products

Airport Chic: Easy hairstyles to take you from takeoff to landing

Last Look: The Ultimate Nail Polish Travel Guide

COUTURE

28 30 34 36

Jet Set Go: 7 Packing Hacks to Travel Like A Star Chic Travel Accessories for Your Dream Destinations 5 style Essentials to dress like a French Girl Designers we Love: Vacay

WWW.MODELISTEMAGAZINE.COM

TRAVEL

Modeliste’s Travel Guide 2015: The World’s Most Glamorous Hotels, Villas, Hideaways and Lodges

Travel

The Mode

Travel in style picks

Quay Australia My Girl Sunglasses, $50. quayaustralia.com

Hayden Harnett Passport Case, $78. haydenharnett.com

Jennifer Haley Fringe Sophisticated Shopper, $495. shopjenniferhaley.com

Kora Balancing Rose Mist. $44. koraorganics.com

Modeliste Editor-in-Chief, Amy McCabe, shares her ultimate packing essentials for all of your sweetest escapes. By Terry Baume De Rose, $60. byterry.com

Ayres Calming Candle, $34. ayresbeauty.com

Acacia Kauai Bikini, $200. acaciaswimwear.com

Chanel Booties, $1,325. chanel.com Electric Brief Duffel Bag, $70. electriccalifornia.com

Chagoury Couture top and skirt, Alejandra G. Shoes, Haati Chai necklace.

With a host of upcoming projects on the horizon, from a new beauty line to a fitness clothing line Modeliste's October Cover Model, Shiva Hadid is living the life she always wanted. Newly engaged to Mohammad Hadid, father of supermodel sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid, she talks openly of finding her true love, her favorite fashion finds, ultimate beauty secrets, and what is in store for this stunning, classic and down to Earth fashionista.

RUNWAY ENVY. Definitely the Hadid sisters. They’re taking over the fashion world; are so successful and so focused. BEST BASIC. Plain white tee is always a must. FAVORITE JEANS. AG Skinny and Zara Boyfriend jeans…obsessed. FOR ANY OCCASION. A nice pair of jeans that you can wear out for dinner or at home. SIGNATURE POUT. Nude lipstick. Favorites are Mac in Jubilee and Pure Zen shades and Giorgio Armani Rouge Ecstasy. Actually I have them in my purse now! SECRET WEAPON. Hydration and lots of sleep. It makes a major difference. MUST-HAVES. Mascara, lip balm and bronzer. MY SCENT. Fresh and light. Right now I’m loving Alaia. WHAT I'M READING NOW. The Body Doesn’t Lie, by Vicky Vlachonis. I was in an accident recently and after having acupuncture this book was recommended to me. It’s all about the importance of listening to your body and its changes. MOST PLAYED SONG ON YOUR ITUNES. This is so embarrassing, but I’m not tech-savvy. I usually listen to whatever is on the radio or playing at the gym. At least I’m honest! GO-TO SHOE. Chanel espadrilles, I have them in all different colors. SUNGLASSES. Célene. PRIZE POSSESSION. My engagement ring. CURRENT HANDBAG. Birkin- I throw everything in it! WHERE WERE YOU BORN? I was born in Tehran, Iran and lived there until I was 4 years old and moved to Norway. I’ve now been in California for 16 years. WHEN DID YOU BEGIN YOUR MODELING CAREER? I actually never considered myself to be a model. I’m only 5’6” and never really thought of it as an option. But through friends, namely Michael Costello, I began doing some modeling on the side. WHAT'S THE FIRST THING THAT ATTRACTS YOU TO SOMEONE? Eyes. Once you have eye contact, you can see that instant attraction or chemistry. HOW DID YOU MEET YOUR FIANCÉ MOHAMAD HADID? It was so random, we actually met at a restaurant in Beverly Hills. We were both seated at separate tables waiting for friends, and had that first eye contact. LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT? I would say, more attraction at first sight. it was after a family vacation together in Turkey and Greece that I really feel in love. WHAT IS ONE WORD YOU WOULD USE TO DESCRIBE HIM? Very Charming. WHAT WOULD YOU DESCRIBE AS YOUR PERSONAL STYLE? Timeless and classy. You’ll often find me in jeans and a tee. STYLE ICON? Jackie O. HANDBAG ESSENTIALS YOU NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT. Lip balm, 3 or 4 different kinds as my lips need to be hydrated at all times. Sunglasses and a hydrating mist. Right now I’m in love with an Amore Pacific mist. HAVING BEEN ON SO MANY PHOTO SHOOT SETS AND WORKED WITH NUMEROUS MAKEUP ARTISTS. WHAT ARE SOME TIPS YOU'VE TAKEN AWAY AND USE DAILY? Use good brushes. Brushes and blending sponges makes the biggest difference. Blend, blend, blend! Also, fill in your eyebrows, this gives an instant eye lift and highlight. HOW DO YOU KEEP IN SHAPE? HEALTH TIPS? I try to be as active as possible, even if it’s just running around our 65,000 sq. foot house. I also love pilates and hiking with my brothers. If I push myself too much, I won’t go, so the key is moderation. Eat a healthy and balanced diet and exercise when you can. FAVORITE FOOD. Persian; It’s so comforting, I love it. I actually cook a lot. FAVORITE TRAVEL SPOT. Paris. DREAM VACATION. I’ve been really wanting to go to Egypt and Brazil. WHAT'S THE BEST ADVICE YOU'VE EVER RECEIVED? This was from my mom, who ever since I was little, told me to always be kind. Be nice no matter what and to always treat others how you would want to be treated. WHAT'S NEXT FOR YOU? UPCOMING PROJECTS, ETC. I actually owned my own company that provided criminal background checks for companies, but I’ve recently left that and now and going into creating a new beauty and hair product line that already in the works. I’m also working on a new active wear line with my brother who owns a gym. WHY YOU LOVE MODELISTE. Modeliste captures great elements of style, fashion and art all bundled up in one magazine. I love it!

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GENIUS

TRAVEL BEAUTY BAG MUST-HAVES to tote on your next vacation

These multi-taskers and mini must-haves are the ultimate chic beauty finds you’ll want for all your upcoming vacations.

Pinch Provisions Minimergency Kit for Her This tiny kit contains miniature versions of 17 beauty essentials including breath spray, nail polish remover, deodorant, double sided tape, sewing supplies and more. Stash this fabulously packaged pouch and you’ll be covered for any beauty “miniemergency”. $14 pinchprovisions.com

4 2 1

Dezso Lecce Neoprene Clutch Don’t leave anything at home with this small travel bag. Lightweight, waterproof, spacious and ultra-hip, this bag promises to hold all of your travel beauty essentials, $170. shop.dezsosara.com

7 5

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare 20 Days to Radiance Kit This space saving spa-in-a-box gives you luxury skincare on the go. As a 20-day treatment, all you have to do is just pack an envelope for every day you’ll be gone, $48. dgskincare.com

Prospector Co. Compressed Towel Tablet Pop one of these magic “pills” under warm water for an instant face towel that grows right before your eyes, $5. prospectorco.com

Try: Pocket Bunny Moist Mist, $15. sephora.com

Deborah Lippman The Stripper To Go Nail Lacquer Remover Mitts These spill proof, lacquer removing finger mitts get rid of polish with one fell swipe. $12. deborahlippmann.com

2 NUXE A favorite among Parisians, NUXE

combines science and nature to create effective yet beautiful skin care products. Try: Dry Oil Huile Prodigieuse, $45. nuxe.com

Global

Glamour 5 Global Beauty Brands To Try Now

From Italy to Korea, Modeliste is going global with some of the most coveted international beauty brands and beauty finds. Stila Lip & Cheek Stain Add that little pop of color to your lips and cheeks to ensure that perfect bright travel glow, $24. stilacosmetics.com

Amazing Cosmetics Amazing Concealer To Go This miniature-size, multi-purpose concealer creates a flawless complexion that looks and feels natural using only tiny amounts of the product, $28. amazingcosmetics.com

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the brand’s name translates to “nice and trendy,” and cult beauty fans can’t get enough of the innovative products and adorable packaging.

NARS Blush/Bronzer Duo Free up some real estate in your makeup pouch by combining your cheek color and bronzer into 1 convenient and easy to use compact, $24. narscosmetics.com

Smashbox Full Exposure Travel Palette This travel-size versatile eye shadow set provides eight must-have neutrals in one portable palette. $24 smashbox.com

T3 Featherweight Compact Folding Hairdryer The best things really do come in small packages. This petite-yet-powerful dryer is ideal for styling on-the-go. Packed with all the features of a full-size dryer, this ultralight version makes blowdrying a breeze, $150. t3micro.com

Moly 1 Tony Launched in Korea,

L’Occitane Cedrat Deodorant Compact and functional, this lightweight deodorant will leave you refreshed during your long days of travel, $18. usa.loccitane.com

Bumble & Bumble The Surf Set Complete with travel sized of the cult favorites surf foam shampoo, surf creme rinse conditioner and surf spray, you’ll have all you need for that beach babe glam look, $28. bumbleandbumble.com

Cool For School 5 Too Too Cool For School means that rules are meant to be

Milano 3 Kiko Often referred to as the “MAC of Italy,”

broken. This Korean brand brings together the latest skincare and makeup trends with a diverse community of experimental artists. The result? Innovative products, playful packaging, and a unique beauty experience.

Kiko Milano is famous for their beautiful collection of richly pigmented shadows, slick lipsticks, and bright liners.

Try: Dinoplatz Lip Balm, $15. sephora.com

Try: Water Eyeshadow, $14. kikocosmetics.com

Gen Do 4 Koh Created by a Japanese actress, Koh Gen

Do began as a skin care collection based on traditional Asian botanicals and homeopathy. The results and responses were so positive that she decided to integrate this innovative concept into a glamorous, eco-friendly makeup line. Try: Oriental Plants Cream, $120. kohgendocosmetics.com

Loose waves

Second-day hair is ideal for airplane travel. Let your day-old waves or curls fall flat when you fly, then refresh your roots with a touch of volumizing powder when you land to amp up your locks.

Side braid

A ponytail or side braid will allow you to sit back and sleep with ease on your flight. The bonus is that you can take the braid down once you reach your destination for an effortless, wavy style.

Hat

A celebrity airport staple is a floppy or fedora hat to distract from tousled hair. Travel tip: If you plan on stuffing your hat in your carry-on, then fill it with your underwear to make sure it maintains the shape.

Airport

CHIC

Subscribe Now

Easy hairstyles to take you from takeoff to landing

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve packed your bikini, but have you considered your airport look? Here are some of the best looks to keep you looking refreshed and chic on your travel days.

Topknot

A perfect look for a redeye flight, a topknot will keep hair from getting mussed by the headrest. Spritz on a little shine spray to tame flyaways.

WWW.MODELISTEMAGAZINE.COM

COUTURE 27

Jet

set go!

7 PACKING HACKS TO TRAVEL LIKE A STAR Even for the most frequent travelers, packing can be a daunting task. From editing down your wardrobe selections to trying to make it all fit, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve rounded up some of the essential packing tricks for the stylish girl on the go. 28

Hack Place your shoes first in your suitcase. Line them up along the bottom heel-to-toe.

Hack Pick a Color Scheme. Many supermodels stick with neutrals and add in pops of color with a bright bag or a unique accessory.

Hack Roll Your Clothes. Rolling your clothes into snug little bundles is an easy way to save space in your suitcase and keep everything organized and prevents wrinkles.

Hack Stuff your handbags with your lingerie, bikinis, satra space while helping your bags keep their shape.

Hack Keep your flat iron, curling iron or any other hot tools in pot holders.

Hack

Use separate jumbo Ziploc bags for different items like underwear, bras, and costume jewelry so it is easy to see and pull out what you need.

Keep fine jewelry and sunglasses in a separate pouch in your carry-on bag.

Luxe City Guides Asia gift box, $60. shop.luxecityguides.com Guanabana Floral clutch, $149. revolveclothing.com Rag & Bone Brixton Suede Moccasins, $375. rag-bone.com

Escape to

ITALY The Best Accessories For Your

The

GREAT WALL

Dream Destinations

Illesteva Porto Cervo Sunglasses, $195. illesteva.com Hermes Scarf Eperon Dor $300. hermes.com Salvatore Ferragamo Sofia Natural-Straw Tote, $3,053

The Best Accessories For Your

Dream Destinations

Out of

Calypso St. Barth Chios Beach Throw, $95. calypsostbarth.com Vix Stripes Detail Bikini Top and Bottom, $92/ $100. vixpaulahermanny.com Sensi Studio Maxi Woven Toquilla Straw Tote, $260. net-a-porter.com

Louis Vuitton Keepall, $1,760. louisvuitton.com Brixton Leonard Hat, $88. brixton.com Emerald Duv Tanzy Necklace, $86. emeraldduv.com

ISLAND 32

Vibe

Black is always the new black

Keep Accessories Minimal

Less is more

Flats. Sleek, simple & cool. Vive Le Moto Jacket

Dress like a

How to

French Girl

Add one intriguing piece.

Go from day to evening with the perfect red lip.

One city always seems to win the award for most coveted sense of effortless chic and glamorous style: Paris. In the city of Love, French women walk down the avenues mixing timeless and trendy pieces in a way that appears to be thrown together with a classic minimalistic elegance, a sort of “"je ne sais quoi”. Here are the secrets to the ultra-chic Paris street style, with all the essential wardrobe elements. With a few key pieces, every girl can cultivate this style of timeless glamour, and a careless, easy votre style français. 34

Invest in a trench coat which you can wear with anything.

When in doubt, what would a modern day Coco Chanel wear?

Dress for your yourself.

Designers We Love

Vacay A love of travel evokes a spirit of adventure, a nostalgia of timeless memories, a romanticized desire to find yourself wanderlust with a playful immersion in new cultures, cuisine and endless paths leading to unique explorations and profound experiences. With these everlasting exotic travel escapes comes the inevitable: What to Pack. We’ve all been there, sorting aimlessly through our closet, cramming as much as we can into our already bursting at the seams luggage, only to find that time after time, on vacations we only wear a few of our most practical staples. Vacay Founder, Elizabeth Hynes has laid out this most daunting task for us with her most simplified, coordinated, uniquely stunning approach to travel fashion. With collections of easy to pack clothing, stylish must-have essentials and chic mix-and-match outfit inspirations, Vacay provides the ultimate go-to pieces for all of your most glamorous getaways. VACAYSTYLE.COM

WE, AT MODELISTE, ARE ABSOLUTELY ARE IN LOVE AND AMAZED WITH VACAY. ITS SIMPLICITY AS WELL AS FUNCTIONALITY. DESCRIBE THE OVERALL CONCEPT OF THE LINE. Vacay is all about beautiful resort wear designed with the seasoned traveler in mind. The pieces are more than gorgeous because they are created with versatility and packing top of mind. Each piece has multiple ways to wear and is made in travel friendly fabrications. As well, each 5-piece collection creates 12 or more amazing looks and easily fits into a carry-on bag. WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO CREATE THE LINE? When my husband and I got married in 2008, we left our corporate jobs and spent 15 months sailing to Australia. Living aboard a 38’ catamaran and visiting some of the most glamorous resorts in the world, taught me a lot about the importance of versatility and practicality and that both is possible without sacrificing style. I know many women struggle with packing and looking fantastic on vacation. I used to be one of them! So I created Vacay to help all women live the Vacay motto: Pack Easy, Look Amazing, Have Fun. WHAT MAKES IT UNIQUE IN THE FASHION AND TRAVEL INDUSTRY? There are a lot of beautiful resort wear lines and a few really practical travel friendly lines but as far as I am aware, none that does both the way Vacay does. Vacay is both pretty and smart, not one or the other. I believe women today need and want both. They can appreciate the thought behind this brand and love how they look in the amazing designs. WHAT IS THE NUMBER 1 PIECE OF CLOTHING OR ACCESSORY YOU SHOULD ALWAYS TRAVEL WITH? Honestly I think one of my MAX dresses is the best piece to take on a trip. These 2-piece dresses are the ultimate in terms of versatility and style. When the top and skirt are worn together, it looks like a beautiful maxi but it is really made up of a top and skirt so it offers many more outfit options than a typical dress. Vacay has seven MAX dresses currently online in various prints and silhouettes. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY IS ONE OF THE MOST DEFINING AND PLAYFUL FASHION PIECES FOR WOMEN? Whatever she feels the most beautiful in! I think following the trends is fun and encourages people to try new things but I also think women should always wear what works for them. If you only buy and wear things that make you feel awesome, you will end up with the perfect wardrobe for you! ARE THERE ANY RULES TO FASHION YOU LIVE BY? Wear what you love! HOW DO YOU USE SOCIAL MEDIA TO BUILD YOUR BRAND? Vacay has a story to tell and I love using Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest to tell this story and truly connect with women all over the world. I hope one day to have a huge Pinterest board with women wearing Vacay on their vacations all over the world! We ask everyone to post pictures to #vacaystyle! FAVORITE TRAVEL DESTINATION? A beautiful beach town is always top of my list. My top six you know from my collection names: Antigua, Barbuda, Bora Bora, Nantucket, Maui and Fiji. NEXT TRAVEL SPOT ON THE BUCKET LIST? My husband and I are planning on taking our 3 sons on a circumnavigation sail around the world in a few years when the youngest is 6. We want to again step out of the “real world” for a while and show them the world. We met many families out there on our first trip and we fell in love with the idea of spending that kind of time together as a family and giving our children the gift of experience. WHY YOU LOVE MODELISTE MAGAZINE. Modeliste Magazine is such an amazing resource for anyone who loves fashion. The contributors are experts in their fields and the multi-media platform makes the information accessible and the videos truly bring it all to life! And personally, I love the Model Diaries! Who wouldn’t want to know a little more about these glamorous ladies who make it look all too easy!

Connect with Vacay: HTTPS://WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/VACAYSTYLE HTTPS://INSTAGRAM.COM/VACAYSTYLE/ HTTPS://TWITTER.COM/VACAYSTYLE

HSighociety Photographed by Jim Jordan

Hair and Makeup: Ricardo Ferrise Designers: Michael Costello gowns Cover dress: katayoonlondon Ring custom designed by Mohamed Hadid Shot on Location #thehouseofhadid

Dress by Ganaho Label; Shoes by Jeffrey Campbell; Earrings by Kate Young

The Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Most Glamorous Hotels, Villas, Hideaways and Lodges. 54

A true gem in the city, the WEST HOUSE NYC provides lasting comfort, extraordinary style and an exceptional level of service in a uniquely luxurious environment.

WEST HOUSE HOTEL

NYC

WESTHOUSEHOTELNEWYORK.COM

Passionately run in there heart of vibrant MIDTOWN MANHATTAN, the West House is New York's most exciting luxurious contemporary hotel. Its sophisticated design sensibility to create a seamless blend of charisma and ease; a house away from home.

Located in one of the most appealing and accessible neighborhoods in New York, the West House is within walking distance of all the theaters, museums and city sites. The dignified exterior is harmoniously balanced with the brilliant contemporary interiors to create a sense of refined intimacy and welcoming atmosphere.

ith expansive views of New York City, Central Park or Times Square, each spacious room has been carefully appointed with 1920s Art Deco, luxurious amenities, in-room comforts and the romance of new nostalgia and contemporary touches which create a peaceful oasis in the heart of the bustle of the city. The West House is home to New Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exciting restaurants and bars. The hip Den is a fresh interpretation of the classic speakeasy with a modern twist, whereas the Terrace, the West Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rooftop bar, overlooks the Hudson River serving exquisite cocktails with a delectable menu.

Respectful, genuine and attentive service is provided by a team fully dedicated to the comfort and happiness to each guest, engendering a sense of warmth and repose while providing guests with MODERN and INNOVATIVE FACILITIES.

LE RÊVE HOTEL & SPA is a harmonious blend of nature, tranquility and elegance. The combination of refined, unparalleled personalized service, traditional Mexican hospitality, breathtaking views and a unique charm cultural and artistic heritage of the region makes every stay a timeless retreat of LUXURY and well-being.

Le Rêve Hotel & Spa MEXICO HOTELLEREVE.COM

Welcome to the Le Rêve Hotel & Spa. In its magical setting between sea and sky, on the edge of the Caribbean Sea, the hotel beckons you to experience absolute tranquility and an unforgettable stay in Playa Del Carmen. Situated on one of the most breathtaking and spectacular expanse of the Caribbean, this emblematic hotel enjoys unforgettable views, pristine beaches and a romantic allure like no other.

ocated in the heart of the Riviera Maya, just minutes from the famous Fifth Avenue in Playa del Carmen and only 45 minutes from Cancun International Airport, Le Rêve Hotel & Spa is an idyllic oasis of retreat and luxury while being easily accessible to all tourist attractions of the region. Like charming jewel boxes with very sleek contemporary design, the rooms and suites are superbly decorated and open onto the horizon of the sea or a lush garden. Plush, cozy and with refined elegance and comfort each room is equipped with all of the most sought after modern luxuries while immersing yourself in the colorful and fanciful world of the Caribbean. Each elegant guest rooms and suites offer emblematic views, while their refined décor pays homage to the storied surroundings. The hotel’s famous Beachfront Bungalows with private plunge pools is a wonderfully romantic hideaway. Thoughtful extras like fresh fruit and flowers help make every stay unforgettable.

INDULGE in breakfast, lunch or dinner on

the water's edge or under a starry sky. Take time to experience unforgettable gourmet moments, enjoying the best of Mexican cuisine and culinary delights at the world-renowned MERLOT RESTAURANT and exquisite all-inclusive gourmet a la carte dining services.

The hotel’s refreshing INFINITY POOL and private beach invites guests to bask in the Mexican sun, while nearby Mayan archaeological sites, tequila tastings, cooking classes, golf, diving, kayaking and eco-tours cater to ADVENTURE aficionados.

The long list of features and activities available at Le Rêve Hotel & Spa guarantees an authentic and entirely relaxing stay. Those seeking complete repose visit the on-site spa, which includes a comprehensive array of unique spa services. Treatments are offered in a secluded garden area designed to harmoniously blend nature with wellness and balance. Choose from invigorating massages and beauty treatments all designed to revitalize the spirit, heart, mind and body while immersing yourself in tranquility and calm. Enjoy a private yoga lesson at the pool deck, taking in area’s natural beauty and energetic atmosphere of the Caribbean Sea while practicing a restorative poses, breathing techniques and peaceful guided meditation. 59

Relax and rejuvenate your mind and body at the luxurious ASCENT SPA. Waterfalls and a Zen-inspired décor make the spa a blissful space to fully immerse yourself in a complete oasis of harmonious treatments designed to pamper, nourish, heal, relax and awaken your senses.

TANAYA LODGE

YOSEMITE TENAYALODGE.COM

The Tenaya Lodge Yosemite is rich in enchanting experiences and reflects a sincere love for this beautiful land beckoning guests to escape, play, relax, adventure, explore and wonder.

osemite is a destination unlike any other. With its powerful energy and unmatched beauty, it is a location you have to see in person in order to experience its majesty. In the heart of this spectacular place lies the Tanaya Lodge Yosemite, a luxury hotel with a distinctive warm and welcoming design set to create an ambiance that is unique to the region. Experience a distinctively refined lodge located in in the heart of Yosemite’s sierras. A place where adventure meets luxurious amenities and impeccable hospitality, Tanaya Lodge provides visitors with a central location near all of Yosemite's activities. From hiking, biking, climbing, and sightseeing in Yosemite National Park, the resort boasts on-site activities such as night time flashlight guided hikes, wall climbing, sledding, ice skating, along with nearby golf, horseback riding, fishing, rafting, skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing. The knowledgeable guest service provides and impeccable and welcoming customized service to help you make the most of your Yosemite stay. The lobby reflects the beauty of the natural world, whereas the Lodge Rooms and Cottage Rooms provide spacious, beautifully appointed areas design for comfort and ease to unwind and relax amidst the natural wonders of the park. With three swimming pools, two outdoor and one indoor, there is plenty of opportunity for play and exhilarating adventure.

Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite launched a $5.0 million remodel that will refresh 240 of the main lodge’s rooms and suites. The first phase of the AAA Four Diamond resort’s refresh was completed in spring 2015, with the entire west wing – 119 rooms and three floors of corridors – ready for their debut as Premium Rooms. The update, which features a rustic contemporary flair, will include new bathrooms with granite countertops and barn-inspired doors; an all new luxury bedding package; new lamps; new sofa sleepers in suites and extended queen rooms; fresh paint; plantation-style window shutters; new plush carpet; and refinished bar cabinets in suites. The corridors will boast new wallpaper, hardwood flooring and wood paneling. The full project will wrap up in spring 2016.

Feast upon fresh, modern cuisine and delicious comfort foods at one of Tenaya Lodge’s FIVE DINING VENUES. Featuring seasonal and stylish dishes designed to reflect the natural region; simplistic yet elegant, each restaurant provides a unique and delicious culinary journey.

THE PALOMAR SAN DIEGO

HOTELPALOMAR-SANDIEGO.COM

Relax, unwind and slip into the tranquility of Palomar’s

NATURE’S SPA BY JURLIQUE. An oasis of

serenity and rejuvenation, Nature’s Spa by Jurlique evokes a spa experience filled the peaceful retreat of nature. Skilled therapists customize treatments specific to each guest which are designed for total renewal and well-being; true replenishment of mind and body. On the go? Try the 30 minute massage, the perfect mini escape of blissful indulgence designed to instantly pamper and reconnect with yourself.

Overlooking downtown San Diego amidst the trendsetting glamour of the Gaslamp District, the Palomar Hotel is San Diego’s most exclusive luxury boutique hotel. Combining sophisticated luxury with captivating grandeur and uncompromising service, the Palomar offers deluxe guestrooms and suites carefully appointed and exquisitely designed with the most modern and lavish modern amenities designed for the most elite, discerning traveler.

his fashionable hotel is brimming with character and charm with a distinctly eclectic style of sophistication and unassuming luxury. Each room is fully equipped with the latest technology and conveniences, such as plasma screen TVs exquisite bed linen, stunning marble en-suite bathrooms, with stand-alone tubs and rainshowers. The contemporary design exudes elegance that captures San Diego’s relaxed yet vibrant beach atmosphere. The hotel is peaceful and quiet, a retreat from the city bustle, providing the ideal place to muse over your day with their daily hosted wine hour set in the lobby or relax poolside at SummerSalt rooftop pool deck. Perfectly situated offering an unparalleled panoramic perspective of the city's skyline, the rooftop pool at The Palomar is destined to be one of the best to soak up the California sunshine with its exceptional atmosphere and unequaled comfort. The Palomar’s Saltbox restaurant is one of the hottest and hippest spots in town. A favorite among guests and locals alike, Saltbox boasts fresh farm to table cuisine with a chic and luscious gastro-lounge approach. An intimate yet happening setting guests can enjoy simplistic dishes each with their own distinctive and artistically flavorful style. Don’t miss Saltbox’s extensive cocktail list from Prohibition-era classics to enticing and creative originals.

The role of the staff is central to your experience at The Palomar. The team is known for impeccable knowledge and unparalleled personal attention. With a passionate team and an 'in the know' service culture; the Palomar Hotel ensures guests enjoy a truly authentic San Diego experience. 63

INTERCONTINENTAL SAN FRANCISCO MARK HOPKINS

San Francisco has emerged as one of the world’s most sophisticated dining cities. The Intercontinental San Francisco Mark Hopkins lives up to this prestige with a collection of culinary experiences to entice the modern palate. Whatever the hour, occasion or mood, the hotel has a menu for it. Tantalize your tastebuds at the Michelinstarred Luce Restaurant showcasing fresh, Californian dishes for breakfast and lunch, and a contemporary culinary adventure for dinner. It is an essential experience for any serious gourmand with a contemporary twist.

SAN FRANCISCO INTERCONTINENTALSANFRANCISCO.COM From floor-to-ceiling windows, look out over a glittering skyline and San Francisco Bay views, it is your private haven at the heart of the city.

he Intercontinental San Francisco Mark Hopkins is among the beloved city's most enduring design phenomena and prestigious landmarks. The majestic translucent blue tower mirrors the likeness of the ocean and soars 32 stories above the hip and trendy South Market area. Combining a vibrant and cool design and cosseting service with a contemporary mindset, puts it squarely on the map for travellers seeking to be at the center of the action. The hotel's sleek yet serene urban image combines rich and exquisitely appointed rooms complete with state-of-the-art amenities, sleek art, and comfortable and plush furnishings. Natural light floods the spaces, while walls of glass draw you into the city. It is an uplifting perspective, proof of simplicity's power, and the chic appeal of understatement.

The Intercontinental San Francisco’s intuitive and personal service culture, appeals to both today’s smart luxury traveler in one of the world’s most inspiring settings.

To counteract the livelihood and bustle of the city, the INTERCONTINENTAL SPA is an urban escape dedicated to relaxation, rejuvenation and wellbeing. The spa offers a comprehensive array of treatments designed for complete indulgence and a luxurious and harmonious pampering experience. 65

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PASSAGES TO

« from lost to found» Written by LYNNE CHIZZICK

India beckons with its mystique of unimaginable beauty, monumental feats of architecture and design, and a colorful past and present intertwined with epic history, religions and cultures. India can be daunting. It is a destination so awe-inspiring in the scope of its treasures that it is easy to feel lost and overwhelmed when planning a visit to this huge, diverse subcontinent. India presents a spectacular array of wonders, historical and natural. Its wealth lies in its architecture and antiquities, distinctive crafts and artisans, and, above all, the beauty and diversity of its people and cultures. India offers endless possibilities for every tourist. Choices and decisions of when it is best to travel, where to go, what to see and how to manage travel across distances, can perplex even the seasoned traveler. While it is truly impossible to capture all that India offers, determining a focus is a challenge.

Women travelers are choosing India, seeking adventure and immersion in cultures ancient and vibrant. Whether traveling alone or with friends, in couples or families, India offers experiences from cooking and crafts, nature safaris, yoga and wellness, shopping bazaars, explorations and action travel to hiking, biking, horseback riding, and miles of beaches. Whether planning a first time or return trip to India, women travelers are discriminating in taste, diverse in age and interests, travel savvy and safety conscious. Feeling lost and overwhelmed with travel guides and websites featuring a bountiful collection of “must see” monuments capsulized in factoids, resisting the large group standardized check-list approach to rapid fire quantity sightseeing over quality touring, I was intrigued and drawn to a unique name and concept......From Lost to Found Travel.

From my first conversation with owner, Allison Rulon-Miller, I truly went “from lost to found.” I found what I was searching for in a personalized travel concept, a kindred spirit dedicated to creating an itinerary that provided a sense of discovery for my first visit to India, filling my days with sights and experiences designed to enlighten, conscious of my wide range of interests. In 2009, after a successful career in the business and financial world, Allison decided to pursue her passion for all things India and launch a travel company that specializes in this remarkable country. Her studies and commitment have connected her to top guides and created a partnership that aims to bring Western travelers an experience that meets their interests and expands their understanding of India, past and present. Her partner in India is Mr. Subhamay Banerjee of Indian Tourism Pvt. Ltd., whose expertise in Indian history, religions and iconography is recognized across the travel industry. Together they develop custom itineraries that match each traveler with their specific interests, blending visits to familiar tourist attractions with explorations of undiscovered destinations. Some of the innovative themes around which they have developed itineraries include Body Art and Adornment, Horticulture and Gardens, Ancient and Modern Architecture, The Durga Puja Festival of West Bengal, Crafts and Textiles, Photography, and Creativity and Wellness. In 2013, they managed the first trip to India by the Pennsylvania Horticulture Society, the oldest horticultural society in the U.S., with a repeat visit scheduled for 2016. Discovering India meant I wanted a sampling of it all...and Allison managed to make that dream come true. With humor and dramatic flourishes, master storyteller Mr. Banerjee weaves the story of India through its history and mythology. As he engages and entertains his audience, guiding us through unexpected pathways, Subhamay illuminates the beauty and wonders, forts and palaces, personalities and intrigues, temples and mosques, stretching across a landscape scarred by invasions and conquerors. Together, and Subhamay make a team that bridges many aspects of India, creating an unforgettable experience. 70

Bangla Sahib Sihk Temple

My journey, like most who first visit India, began in the Delhis, Old and New, followed by the requisite pilgrimage to Agra and the iconic Taj Mahal. From there, I chose to explore India through its arts and architecture with an itinerary that crossed the north of India through the state of Rajasthan, capturing the rich history of the Mughal invasions and the intersection of Muslim, Buddhist, Hindu, Sikh and Jain religions and cultures. The map of my journey reached from dynamic Delhi to the colossal architectural achievements of Agra, to the walled city of Fatehpur Sikri, the citadel of Amer, the fascinating beauty of Jaipur, the natural wonders of Ranthambhore National Park, the famed fortress of Jodhpur, the cuisine of Rohet and the beautiful palaces of Udaipur. New Delhi, the beginning. Arriving fatigued after a day of flights, The Lodhi hotel offered perfection for the weary traveler (thelodhi.com). Named for the dynasty that ruled Delhi before the Mughal invasion, modern and traditional elements on the exterior and throughout the hotel create a harmonious and relaxed setting. The room was extraordinary, encompassing comfort and design throughout. But it was the inviting private plunge pool and the luxury of crisp linens on the double poolside lounge that set The Lodhi apart and above all others. Outside, the night sky was alight with splashes of distant colorful fireworks indicating wedding celebrations across the city. A dip in the warm pool eased body and mind as the noises of the city faded in the distance. Refreshed and eager to begin my first day exploring New Delhi, I began by acquainting myself with

Left to Right: New Delhi Raisina Hill; Delhi Raj Ghat - Gandhi’s cremation site; The Lodhi

the amazing amenities of The Lodhi. The lobby and corridors are galleries of artwork by prominent Indian artists provided in partnership with Apparao Galleries of Chennai. This introduction to the beautiful art and sculptures of the present formed a connection with India’s rich artistic past. Considered the top boutique hotel of New Delhi with only 39 rooms, no detail is overlooked. The fully-equipped gym and fitness center with personal trainers, outdoor lap pool, tennis courts, yoga and Pilates studios, and poolside café were far beyond my expectations. A separate garden floor, full-service spa with an enticing menu of treatments promised tranquil relaxation foreven the most stressed traveler. A library, boardroom and cigar lounge complete The Lodhi picture, with the Delhi golf course, Lodhi gardens, Humayun’s Tomb and the Red Fort nearby. The Lodhi offers top cuisine with Executive Chef Ritesh Negi designing an eclectic menu of the best of contemporary Indian, regional specialties, and shared family recipes. Preparation is a performance art in the central kitchens of its glassed-in two-story On the Waterfront restaurant over looking the tranquil reflecting pool. Or opt for the more casual Elan for indoor or courtyard dining. A separate bar and lounge brings comfort and design for relaxation for the business traveler and tourist, and an unexpected island with a glass pavilion is available for private parties and functions. The Delhis are an introduction to the historic past of India, the imprint of conquests reflected in the architecture, religious monuments, and the faces and dress of the people.

Delhi has not always been the capital, but has been successively built, destroyed, rebuilt and left to ruin over centuries. Tombs and fortresses, temples and palaces, and the regal creations of English governance exist side by side. Though not impressed by the traditions of historic Indian architecture, Sir Edwin Lutyens and Sir Herbert Baker incorporated some elements of Mughal and Hindu design in the Edwardian facades of British rule. Designed as the showcase of British Imperial power, order, and style, New Delhi exhibits the wide boulevards, gardens, and dominating prominence echoed in its neo-classical government buildings. Inaugurated in 1931 with all the pomp and display Britain flaunted at the height of The Empire, New Delhi stands in sharp contrast to the colorful chaos of Old Delhi, which has survived since it became a Mughal capital in 1638. Since India’s independence in 1947, the government has co-opted these buildings, the Parliament, and presidential palace and imprinted the face of modern India on these vestiges of colonial rule. Religion features prominently when touring the Delhis, from the most prominent Sikh Gurudwara in Delhi, to the Jami Masjid, India’s largest mosque built in 1656 by Emperor Shah Jahan (of Taj Mahal fame), to the amazing lotus shaped Baha’i Temple emerging from a hillside to be viewed from the city, and the many Hindu shrines and statuary. 71

My first encounter with exquisite inlaid marble was at the famed Humayun’s Tomb, and my wonder at the beauty of this art form in architecture never diminished from that first day. I marvel at its intricacy, the detailed patterns and design. Watching the painstaking detail of its artisans on the next step of our tour in Agra gave me even greater admiration for the monuments that have survived time and onslaughts and continue to inspire craftsmen whose families have carried this tradition forward for centuries. A pause at Raj Ghat, the site of Mahatma Gandhi’s cremation following his assassination by a Hindu fanatic, is an opportunity to reflect on the history of his peaceful civil disobedience that brought down British rule in India and inspired Martin Luther King Jr. and civil and human rights advocates around the world. Many have tried to describe the adventure of riding in a rickshaw through the maze that is the Chandi Chowk, through narrow openings in throngs of people...shoppers, hawkers, beggars, tuktuks, motor bikes, carts pulled by men or don- Delhi Market keys or horses and, of course, the meandering, omnipresent, sacred cows. It must be experienced, the overpowering kaleidoscope of color, cacophony of sounds, and indescribable smells that bombard and penetrate the senses. For the uninitiated it is overwhelming, either positively with a sense of life and energy seldom experienced or... A walk through Karol Bagh bazaar presents the opportunity to window shop and encounter the multitudes. While you can be besieged by the curious, the emphatic, the unrelenting, the jostling and demanding, this dimension of humanity is the reality of India. Triumphantly reaching our destination, we enter a world of breathtaking beauty and creativity. 72

Ahujasons is known as the home of the finest pashmina shawls in India and the row of men behind the counter display with finesse the finely stitched wondrous art of pashmina, some worth thousands of dollars. We are honored with a viewing of early pashmina works, the “real” pashmina, made from ultra-fine cashmere wool from a rare breed of Himalayan mountain goat. Exquisite in stitching detail, endless stacks of pashmina shawls, from silk and woolen threads, cashmere, handmade lace, and designs traditional and some more modern, leave us in awe. Behind this simple, unpretentious façade lies the history of this hand craft collected from families steeped in its traditions. The discipline of its processes, dyes, designs, and its unique stitches are passed on through generations. It is captivating and spellbinding to see and appreciate the beauty and wealth in this seemingly modest shop. This is my first awareness that the bazaars conceal many wonders that I will discover to my amazement as I follow Allison and Subhamay into the mysteries and marvels, the mazes and magic of India. Agra is the Taj Mahal and yet it is so much more. The iconic wonder of this amazing tomb so celebrated in its whiteness and perfection, its symbolism of beauty and eternal love in death as in life, its symmetry and flawless proportions, does not disappoint in reality. It is awe-inspiring and breathtaking even when shared with so many others. We are traveling in April and the beginning of the summer heat means fewer crowds yet still bearable temperatures. This meant more time to study and learn of its history and its secrets. So many visual illusions contribute to its seeming perfection. I was mesmerized as the guide revealed the three degree tweaks that make the minarets seem

perfectly straight from every angle, the design tricks that make the columns appear fluted, and the Arabic writing that appears smaller as it moves to the top. I am grateful that we first visited the extraordinarily beautiful jewel box tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah, better known as the predecessor of the Taj or the Baby Taj. It is lesser known but its magnificent artwork and inlaid marble is a wonder that is uniquely stunning in its own right. Walking through the Moonlight Garden, Mehtab Bagh, on the opposite side of the river meandering by the Taj Mahal, gave a unique colorful perspective as the sun began to set. The white marble domes and minarets were cast in a pink and gold aura that was breathtaking. We watched unhurried as we few remaining devotees were treated to a vision that will remain a lasting memory. Our day had been filled with sights and experiences that swirled in my mind as we headed to our welcome respite at the lovely new guest house, Agra Luxury Home Stay, awaiting us. Just a short distance from the city center, it stood out as new, fresh, quiet and separated from the crowds and traffic noise. Devender Bhati, owner and tour operator, personally greeted us and led us through the modern sparkling entry to our spacious and comfortable rooms. With only eight rooms, it conveyed Indian hospitality and a homey atmosphere. The delicious home cooked vegetarian meals were a lovely treat, with fresh vegetables, curries, traditional favorites, and a delightfully relaxed family style gathering place for dining. This enhanced homestay experience, reasonably priced, newly-built, clean and comfortable, with the most welcoming and accommodating staff, created a perfect retreat from the action in Agra (agraluxuryhomestay.com). A visit to the imposing red sandstone Agra Fort, built by Emperor Akbar between 1565 and 1575, convinced me that the Mughal style of architecture demonstrated a beauty and simplicity as an art form that is intriguing. My admiration and fascination began at the Agra Fort, continued and grew as we visited several famed fortresses and palaces while crossing Rajasthan, each with amazing carvings, inlaid marble artistry, and a wealth of stylized design elements that have survived the onslaught of historic events.

Top to Bottom: Inlaid marble workshop; Greetings from Agra Luxury Home Stay.

I developed an even deeper admiration for the intensive process of inlaid marble production, parchin kari, on a visit to the workshop of the Agra Marble Emporium. I marveled at each aspect, watching the design set out and transferred onto the marble indicating specific colors; the technique of precision cutting with tools created for each specific cut; the shaping of the pieces, some miniscule, of stone and precious gems; and the exacting inlay fittings set and made permanent. Lapis, malachite, jade and cornelian, turquoise, amethyst, tiger eye, coral and shells are hand set. Men sit crosslegged, timeless and covered in white marble dust, fingers tuned to their motions like practiced pianists. The art of filigree carving is spellbinding as craftsmen position and enter the marble with meticulous care, creating curves and intricate designs. Calloused fingers gently bring life to the stone formed millions of years ago and crafted through generations. Having the opportunity to watch this process provides a unique appreciation when viewing the finished products, ranging from jewel boxes and pendants to dining tables and framed mirrors, which are beautifully displayed in the Agra Marble Emporium and the Subhash Emporium. 73

With thanks to Allison and Subhamay, I continue on the path of discovering the splendor and heritage of Indian arts and handwork. We follow a heavily trafficked, winding, semi-paved road leading to a modern shop that was more gallery and museum, Kohinoor Jewelers. Along with their exquisite jewelry, the Mathur family has partnered to showcase with pride the technique of zardozi embroidery which has been practiced and perfected by men in a select group of families in this region. From handbags to staggering wedding garments, from fashion clutches to coronation gowns, the current representations of zardozi - textiles embroidered with silver and gold thread, affixed with jewels and gems - are beautiful. But it is what lays beyond closed doors that beckons me. The patriarch of the most prominent family, Padmashri Sheikh Shams Uddin (1917-1999), originated a unique branch of zardozi embroidery which incorporates rich naturalist themes in three dimensions. His legacy is a priceless treasury of embroidered masterpieces of Asian and African birds and animals that are showcased here. With breathtaking accuracy, his stitches capture nature in 3D with the eye and appreciation of the naturalist he was. Animals emerge from the canvas with striking realism. The color is protected in the climate and light controlled gallery where each of his masterpieces is individually enshrined. This awe-inspiring display captures the muscles and movement formed through layered stitches, the feathers vibrant with motion, flowers and plants intricately detailed. Jewels, pearls, and semi-precious stones are an integral part of the design. His zardozi Taj Mahal is a famed representation that is considered priceless. But his surprising portrayal of a lifelike Jesus as shepherd, which appeared to him in a dream, is reverent and without equal. The stitches softly create a dimensional portrait of gentle compassion as He cradles a lamb surrounded by His flock. It has only left India once to be exhibited at the Met in 1987. Remembered as the most nerve-wracking experience, it may never leave again. It was such an honor to view his astonishing accomplishments and the Kohinoor experience (shamsembroidery.com). Top to Bottom: Entry gate to the Taj Mahal;

Patio view of the Agra Luxury Home Stay; Handpainted elephant

The long drive from Agra to Jaipur was broken up by an excursion to the walled city of Fatehpur Sikri, another architectural feat that blends Islamic, Hindu and Jain elements. Built as the capital of the Mughal Empire between 1571 and 1585, it reflects a unique beauty and harmony between these cultures. Sandstone and marble, archways and onion domes, magnificent in its scope and artful carvings, it actually was abandoned until it was rediscovered by an 1892 archaeological expedition and restored to a semblance of its natural beauty. Another side trip introduced me to the wonders of a little known architectural achievement, the Step Well of Chand Baori in the village of Abhaneri. Constructed in 800 AD, it descends over 100 feet in the ground, and was used as a reservoir for water and as a recreational retreat for royalty and the community. It was commissioned by King Chanda and dedicated to the Goddess of Joy and Happiness, Harshat Mata, in the adjacent temple. Its stone steps surround the four sides, over 13 stories deep with over 3500 narrow steps, making it one of the deepest and largest stepwells in India and the most famous, featured in films including The Dark Knight Rises, The Fall, and The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. Our lovely lunch as we traveled was in the cool comfort of The Birderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inn. Located at the gateway to the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary known to the international community of birdwatchers, this pleasant stop was a delightful interlude with traditional favorites of Indian cuisine. It also offered guest house accommodations for travelers seeking a longer stay. But our destination was Jaipur and I was anxious to savor the Maharani experience at the Raj Palace Hotel, a boutique luxury retreat and award-winning heritage hotel built in 1727 (www.rajpalace.com). A palace stay is a musthave indulgence when touring India, and The Raj was true to its expectations. The splendor of palatial living converted by modern day royals into hotels can be affordable especially in the low season and is usually worth the splurge. My Maharani delights included a deluxe room with a balcony overlooking the gardens, a deep soaking tub with fragrant soaps and lotions for

the bath, dining in a ballroom sized dining room under chandeliers of gleaming crystals, delicious custom made entrees, the luxury of a spa side swimming pool tucked in a garden cove, attentive servants, and a tour of the rooms for an opportunity to see the glassed cases filled with intriguing personal effects, clothing, and mementos of the former residents. Morning brought attentive servers and a luscious breakfast of a vegetable omelet, fruits, and choice of fresh pastries. Pampered and prepared for a day of rigorous sightseeing at the Amer Fort and Palace and the acclaimed City Palace, I am also looking forward to the famed shopping and gawking at Jaipurâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s awesome bazaars. I was ready to set off for a day of touring. My regal turbaned doorman urged me to ride the elephant up the hillside to the Amer Fort and Palace, our next stop. The temperature was already soaring, so I opted for air conditioning as far as possible, and the colorfully adorned elephants plodding up and down were probably grateful for one less tourist. After a year in Africa, I found the Indian elephants to be domesticated and tolerant of passengers, decoration, baubles, and paint, quite different than the wildly free variety of my African safaris. The impressive fort and palace dominate the hillside and must have been formidable to invaders throughout history. The huge arched gates easily accommodate elephants in royal procession, now carrying tourists up the steep winding road. Wander the maze of palaces, gardens, and temples with mysterious passageways and pillared halls, many ornately carved and designed with glass mosaics and mirrored tiles. The current home of the Jaipur royals is the City Palace where their flag indicates they are in residence and museum collections of silver adornments, royal costumes, palanquins, carpets, miniature paintings, and all manner of beautiful art treasures are displayed in richly decorated rooms. Peacocks, the national bird and treasured symbol through millennia, are displayed in full splendor, adorning columns and archways, mosaic panels, weaponry, and royal robes. Do not miss! 75

Jaipur is a richly vibrant city saturated in history and commerce. Marketplaces are separated into streets featuring jewelry or textiles, carvings or crafts. Here is the renowned M.I. Road where the elite of the jewelers’ emporiums of Jaipur shine behind unpretentious storefronts. Royalty and movie stars, business tycoons and world leaders have frequented The Gem Palace, prominent jewelers through seven generations of the Kasliwal family since 1852. Their guest book is a Who’s Who of celebrities past and present and their treasury of jewels, pendants, bangles and rings is staggering. Every aspect of the jewel trade, every detail in cutting and setting, and elements of creative jewelry design is directed on site within the extended family. This proud heritage was passed on to brothers Sanjay and Munnu and now to their children who have established two Kasliwal shops in New York City as well.... Munnu’s son, Siddarth, on East 74th Street, and Sanjay’s children on Madison Avenue. We spent a delightful hour with the new generation represented by the delightful Samir. Born in Italy, Samir blends the charm and vitality of his unique parentage representing a romantic merger of the Italian and Indian gem dynasties. With his father, Sanjay, he welcomes guests to The Gem Palace and speaks the language of the jewel world, but is equally conversant in vintage cars, European tastes, American music and celebrities, food and fashion.

Samir at Gem Palace

sundial. The design is based on ancient Hindu and Sanskrit texts. Hindu culture depends on the accuracy of celestial forecasts in determining all auspicious events beginning at birth. The relative position of all astrological signs in the night sky is demonstrated by the unique, size, angle and positioning of the individual masonry structures and walking through this true space and time machine is amazing. The calculations determine the sun’s position at noon at four observatories around the world, the times of sunrise and sunset, and the angles of the earth, moon, planets and stars. Zardozi embroidery

He displays the wondrous jewels seen at the Academy Awards, weddings, and coronations around the world and is discreet about purchases by The Gem Palace frequent flyers. He is also involved in the New York store operated by his sister, Shalini (info@sanjaykasliwal.com). The future of The Gem Palace is rocking, and a visit puts you in the ranks of British Royals, Arab princes, Oprah, and savvy Indians here and abroad. The block prints of Anokhi are an age old art form that is preserved and showcased in the museum at Amer and in the beautiful store of Anokhi textiles in Jaipur. Colorful block prints adorn saris and duvets, table coverings, dresses and bags. The craftsmen who create the pattern blocks with tiny tools and precision, work in traditional and modern design. The colorists insure consistency and seamless patterns. Both represent and continue the family trade practiced for generations. Off the beaten path: Jaipur is home to the Jantar Mantar, the best preserved astronomical observatory in India. Built by Emperor Jai Singh II in 1727, it has continued with precision to the present. Whether you follow your horoscope religiously, are an astronomy enthusiast, or neither, this is a most amazing site. This complex is a scientific phenomena with 19 architectural astronomical instruments constructed of giant stone and metal used to calculate time, draw up astrological charts and horoscopes, map the positions of the planets and stars, and forecast weather, eclipses, and solar events. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site that features the world’s largest

« WHERE TO STAY » An alternative to a palace stay is the affordable comfort and friendly informality of the Ikaki Niwas guest house of Jaipur (ikaki.in). The casual comfort of this lovely guest house and warm welcome of J.D., Jaideo Singh Rathore, and his lovely wife, Devika, made this an enjoyable and funfilled stay. J.D. is committed to the healthy organic lifestyle and an environmental consciousness. He has an organic farm outside Jaipur where he grows the fresh vegetables served at Ikaki. J.D. is passionate in his hope that his small step toward a healthier mankind and cleaner environment will build an awareness that will spread in India. The food is delicious and Devika demonstrates traditional Indian cooking on the airy terrace, with guests invited to try their hand Ikaki Niwas Jaipur

Blue pottery of Jaipur

at chapati and other staples. Home-cooked meals are included. Popular with Western and Indian guests, the atmosphere invites people to mingle, laughter resonates, and conversations broached all the taboos of politics, culture, and religion. Rooms are spacious, quiet, and comfortable with elements of regional décor. Located next to a park with a lovely walking/jogging path, guests enjoy private baths with hot showers, television, a handy writing desk, and a rooftop swimming pool making this a highly-rated stay in Jaipur. The best known Blue Pottery of Jaipur was the signature work of the late Mr. Kripal Singh Shekhawat. At Kripal Kumbh studio, his daughter and students have continued his legacy and his home remains a showroom of many of his famous pieces and award-winning designs. Blue Pottery can be viewed and purchased here, and it is humbling to be invited to see his many awards and recognitions with his widow and daughter. Classes are also held with his daughter and students teaching his techniques and ensuring they are followed and remembered always.

« TIGER SAFARI » Ranthambore National Park, Sawai Madhopur, once the hunting ground of maharajas and colonials, is now a wildlife sanctuary and protected home of the magnificent Bengal tigers of India. These elusive endangered animals are revered and each morning and afternoon safaris photo ops, the tigers eluded us on each of our safari ventures. 77

Dining is the ultimate five star experience each night. Magical lanterns light the pathways and the night calls of birds harmonize in the jungle surround. Appetizers served around the fire pit bring guests together to share game sightings and travel adventures. Clay ovens cook traditional Indian fare to perfection and the addition of the fresh organic vegetables and fruits from the Sher Bagh farm and organic herb and vegetable garden delight and satisfy. The breakfast and luncheon menus offer a variety of healthful selections, a buffet or even a custom omelet overflowing with vegetables. Dining at Sher Bagh is divine.

« DESTINATION JODHPUR »

Top to Bottom: Sher Bagh luxury campsites; inside the Sher Bagh luxury tent.

We waited as the monkeys warned us of tigers nearby, but we were disappointed he/ they headed deeper into the jungle forest to hunt. Score one for the monkeys, zero for us.

« WHERE TO STAY » Sher Bagh, in the SUJÁN group of hotels, is the highlight of luxury, a tent camp with every convenience and amenity within the intimacy of the jungle setting (sujanluxury.com). With only 12 private air conditioned tents, the style of the camp is reminiscent of the 1920’s when the Raj period was at its height. The library and bar are furnished in the Edwardian style of the times, with leathers and woods, desks and lighting that transport you to the times of the future King Edward VIII’s celebrated tour of India. Now the Library welcomes the computer age with wifi convenience. Overlooking a jungle clearing, the swimming pool beckons as a cool and refreshing retreat. Sunbathers can relax, rest and read and your wish from the nearby bar will be quickly granted. A jungle spa treatment can be scheduled for the ultimate in relaxation. The comfort of Sher Bagh’s accommodations is legendary, with bed and soothing shower to luxuriate in after dusty safari game drives and ventures onto jungle paths. Each tent is hand stitched, safe and secure. 78

The road trip to Jodhpur from Sawai Madhopur is a lengthy seven to eight hours. However, stops along the way made the trip well worth it, and the view of the countryside allowed a glimpse into the harsh life of the farmers along the eastern border of the Thar Desert, the natural boundary between India and Pakistan. Admirers of Rumi, the Sufi poet renowned for his lengthy, beautiful poetry of mysticism and love, will be fascinated by Dargah Sharif, tomb of the 13th century Sufi saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti, in the town of Ajmer. The Mughal emperor Akbar and his grandson, Shah Jahan, demonstrated their devotion with the construction of this complex of mosques, prayer rooms, shrines, Jodhpur Market

and areas designed for music and dance. Pilgrimage to this shrine is an incomparable experience. We are fortunate to be here this week in April, inundated with all that a pilgrimage celebration brings. Colorful flags fly above the narrow streets leading to the mosque shrine; crowds gather at the ablution fountains; shoes are removed and somehow retrieved; throngs of faithful present offerings of flowers and gifts for blessings in return. Gold and silver and red threads are hung as prayer requests for health, fertility, prosperity. And everywhere a river of color with the continous flow of bright saris and scarves, T-shirts and robes, embroidered Topi caps and turbans, moving en masse to the beat of drums and chanting. Another stop, another wonder. The Hut of Two-and-a-Half Days, Adhai-Din-ka-Jhonpra, is a mosque historically known for its seven beautifully carved arches leading to an imposing colonnaded hall. The oldest surviving monument in Ajmer, it began as a Jain temple in 660 AD. It is an artistic tribute to latticework carvings in design and writings.

When opened, they display the full panorama of the Fort and resemble Mughal jharokhas often used for royal thrones. When closed, they create privacy while still allowing cool air to circulate and inviting speckled natural mood lighting to shelter the luxurious spacious rooms with king-sized bed, sitting area, writing desk, flat screen TV, wifi, and beautifully appointed bath with glassed-in shower and soaking tub. Aaah. The large central courtyard houses the three restored heritage buildings, the lovely boutique shop and spa. The indoor and terrace dining are adjacent to the pool with cabana lounges facing the cliffs of Mehrangarh. Rudyard Kipling described the Fort as “the creation of angels, fairies, and giants.” He may have also used those words to describe Raas Jodhpur (raasjodhpur.com).

« JODHPUR - WHERE TO STAY » The Mughal architecture captivates, none more than the Mehrangarh Fort magically lit in the darkness suspended above the city of Jodhpur. Viewed in awe of its majesty from below in my room at the beautiful Raas Jodhpur hotel, it rules from its imposing rocky promontory. This boutique hotel with 39 rooms is a gem hidden in a garden wonder. Dining under the stars with candlelight bathing the terrace, you are transported to a magical kingdom. The cuisine blends traditional and modern, Indian and western, fragrant and tantalizing with savory and sweet. Delectable and satisfying, dining at the Raas was superb. The architecture of this amazing structure in the context of the ancient walled city of Jodhpur is a feat of loving respect for the old and its ability to meet modern luxury. Materials and workmanship have captured the beauty of the original historic structures of Jodhpur sandstone and incorporated design elements with authenticity. The shuttered windows which shelter the privacy balconies are made of traditional sandstone latticework or jali.

Raas spa

Beyond what was already the perfection of Raas, we were delighted to be led to a historical surprise discovered right “next door.” An ancient stepwell is being cleared and restored to its traditional beauty, a treasure that enhances the wonder of Raas and its Old City charm. The nearby Sardar Bazaar bustles with shops and food markets, and bangles glitter as far as the eye can see. Tailors await tourists and traditionalists longing for the unique custom made trousers known as jodhpurs. Fitted and made to measure, they are delivered to your hotel room in one day. Street carts carry goods, pushed by men or pulled by peevish donkeys through the cobblestone streets, and friendly shopkeepers call out eager to show their wares and do a bit of bartering. Cooking stalls steam with aromas sweetening the air. An occasional cow or camel makes an appearance and motor scooters careen around tuktuks and pedestrians. This is India.

« WHERE TO STAY »

View of the Merangarh Fort from Raas

The road up to the gates of the Fort is a steep climb, four hundred feet above Jodhpur. Begun in 1458 by Rao Jodha, founder of Jodhpur, the Sun Deity Fort was restored and rebuilt into the triumphant fortress we see now from 1638 to 1678 by Emperor Jaswant Singh. The varied styles and additions are evidence that every subsequent ruler of the Rathore Dynasty left his mark in its many palaces and courtyards. Awe-inspiring in beauty and strength from its lofty heights and impenetrable walls, the Fort is an architectural wonder structurally and artistically, a tribute to the enduring craftsmanship and stonework, sculptures and carvings, towers and archways, this culture has given the world. From this vantage point, the blue city of Jodhpur lies below in humbled homage to its defender and distant vistas are viewed across hills and valleys and plains where defeated armies once retreated through history. Forever undefeated, this fortress still stands as a symbol of Rajasthan, its power and glory.

« DESTINATION: ROHET » This region is the historic home of a famed tradition of weaving and we were invited to the home of Roopraj Prajapati for an opportunity to watch the art of handcrafting Dhurrie rugs, the magic carpets of India. Woven from cotton or wool using vibrant organic dyes or the more subtle palette of modern dyes, the designs of dhurrie rugs have been carried forward by generations of weavers. Elegant carpets, heirlooms, masterpieces reflecting themes of nature, stalking tigers and flaunting peacocks are displayed with pride. Roopraj has organized a collective of families that combine traditional and modern designs and motifs, customizing and innovating as they market across the world. We watched reverently the beautiful symmetry of husband and wife, Roopraj and Naino Devi, sitting together as their callused fingers fly across their looms in harmony, her lyrical voice a musical murmur echoed through time. 80

Rohet Garh is a peaceful retreat in India, colonial style (houseofrohet.com). Its natural setting with garden courtyard, roaming peacocks, and lovely swimming pool in a private terrace, overlooks a vista of arid desert and a charming reservoir lake. The ambience of comfort and tradition is found throughout, from the sitting room antiques and art, the rich woods of the bar, to the distinctive décor of each room and suite. Sinking into the sumptuous pillows of my window seat with peaceful views of the lake’s colorful birdlife, I drifted in a most exotic timeless dreamworld. The cuisine of Rohet Garh is known to culinary experts and provides classes and workshops in classical Indian cooking, traditional regional and unique specialties. Their cookbooks are offered for sale throughout the region, including The Cuisine of Rohet Garh and Quick and Easy Rajasthani Cuisine. Demonstrating the preparation of a multicourse meal of curries and Indian favorites from appetizers to dessert prepared seamlessly using only two gas burners, the Chef Kadar Khan had us spellbound. Dining at Rohet Garh is a luscious experience and brilliant performance art. From the hotel we embarked on a jeep safari to view the abundant local wildlife, blackbuck antelope, peacocks, soaring eagles, and furtive foxes and cervil cats. Most memorable was a visit to our driver’s homestead in the community of the Bishnoi people. The entrance of the Rohet Garh

This little known group are the true original Tree Huggers, environmentalists with a devout reverence for all life as sacred and protected. The esteemed elder dressed in white, sat with us to share the history of his people through our interpreter. When the Emperor chose the location of his fort, his soldiers were ordered to level the forests and bring forth all the timber for building his fortress and palaces. When they entered the Bishnoi community, the people resisted and fled to protectively hug their sacred trees. The soldiers killed the martyrs and decimated the forests, leaving the land barren for years. The Emperor was furious and issued an edict to protect and respect the Bishnoi people and their lands for all time, and this small minority continues on with their traditions intact. Strict vegetarians, they will not even eat carrots or other root plants that are killed when harvested. Each day they feed the ants and bees, the cows and crows before they eat themselves. The milk and dairy products sustain them and their gardens thrive. Respect for all that is sustainable is a tenet of their faith and they would never consider desecrating God’s earth with litter. Their village is immaculate and the children play peacefully, a lovely tribute to their culture of coexistence with the earth and all its creatures.

« DESTINATION UDAIPUR » The journey to Udaipur leads us to two significant religious holy sites. The first stop is the 15th century temple complex in Ranakpur, one of the five great holy sites of the Jain religion. Jainism emerged as a faith following a creed of non-violence and asceticism, truth, non-possessiveness, chastity, and no stealing. Its tenets were widely espoused in the 6th century B.C.E. by Mahavira, likely a senior contemporary of Lord Buddha. It incorporates many aspects of Hinduism including karma and reincarnation, but rejects the caste system, the Vedic scriptures, and god as creator or destroyer, believing the universe and everything in it is eternal and everyone has the ability to realize the infinite, or the potential to realize the god within.

The central temple is a forest of exquisite white marble pillars each adorned with carvings representing floral themes. It is subtly lit with filtered sunlight shimmering on filigreed pendants creating a spiritual enclosure reflecting the sacred harmony of nature and man. Our next visit is the magnificent Hindu temple complex of the deity Eklingji, a form of Lord Shiva. The architecture of the 108 temples begun in 971 AD blends elements of each of the subsequent dynasties, scars of invasions, elegant carvings and representations of deities throughout. Having Mr. Banerjee’s knowledge and commentary as we traversed this landscape of diverse and fascinating destinations has been enlightening as he helps make the puzzle pieces of India’s complex religious and political history fit together.

« WHERE TO STAY » Hotel Fateh Garh is astounding. Perched like an ancient palace on a hilltop, its panoramic views of the city of Udaipur overlook the exemplary City Palace, lakes and gardens below. Yet, in all its majesty it is surprisingly new. Fateh Garh encompasses vestiges of the past in its historic doors, traditional motifs, and homage to traditional palace architecture found across Rajasthan. It surprises at every turn... a terrace embraced in sun by day becomes a stargazer’s delight with a telescope provided for optimal viewing while dining in candlelight. Buddha sculptures grace the upper pool. The architects skillfully captured a feeling steeped in history with the cooling courtyard design and artful seating, the luxury of a regal lobby sitting area adorned with antiques and modern art, and included the historic stepwell design in the descent to the lower swimming pool. A harmony of traditional and modern unites all aspects of this palatial hotel (fatehgarh.in).

City Palace Udaipur

Left to Right: The pool at Fateh Garh Hotel overlooking Udaipur; Udaipur City Palace.

The rooms are spacious with huge windows framing views of valleys dotted with green farmlands, distant small villages, and white temples peaked on surrounding hills. Every amenity has been thoughtfully provided. Its spa provides a welcome retreat with a menu of delights that treat body and mind after days of travel. Fateh Garh is magic. Our days in Udaipur are spent contemplating the City Palace which is the largest palace complex in Rajasthan. Built over four centuries by 22 different Maharanas, it is now a maze of museums housing collections of Mewar miniature paintings, royal silver, transports, royal costumes, weapons, crafts and décor. Temples provide an insight into the spiritual alongside the material. A sunset boat ride provides a close look at the floating palace on Lake Pichola and a stop at the garden island palace retreat built in 1620 which was a refuge for the prince who was to become Shah Jahan. We are also treated to a view of our own palace hotel dwarfed by distant mountains yet sparkling in the sun’s last light. My final ventures into the wonderful bazaars, after wandering through history at the Bagore ki Haveli museum, bring an end to my Udaipur excursion with all the colorful sensory drama I have enjoyed throughout. After cultural super saturation from my amazing immersion in India through these weeks, I gratefully found the wonderful closure I sought at the Shreyas Yoga Retreat and wellness center on a beautiful acreage outside Bangalore (www.shreyasretreat.com). 82

I am thankful that I took this From Lost to Found advice from Allison Rulon-Miller and found in the tranquil beauty of Shreyas time to pause and process the mind-boggling wondrous sights and the sensory overload that is India. Some opt for the rigor of an ashram as they explore India, but for me this journey of discovery-filled days could not have concluded more perfectly. A time for reflection in the quietude beyond blaring horns and overwhelming throngs allowed for a comforting journey of inner discovery. For India is also a spiritual smorgasbord displaying a multitude of paths to enlightenment, diversity of religious beliefs and worship, and innumerable versions of deities. At this cluttered intersection of the world’s major religions, harmony seems possible within the chaos of colliding beliefs. At least it did in the days at Shreyas where peace reigns. Shreyas Retreat attends to the wellness of Mind, Body, and Spirit and the needs of each individual who enters this retreat. Some seek solace and solitude, healing in body or spirit. All are given according to their needs, health being the overarching goal. The practice of yoga at every level from beginner to expert is central to each guest and staff member and is offered each morning and afternoon. Discovering your body’s potential is a daily measure of your growth and inner awareness as you are guided from the beginning by the resident doctors who design a personal program to promote wellness and harmony, and the immensely knowledgeable specially trained staff.

The spa provides ayurvedic massage, traditional and western treatments. Scrubs and oils invigorate and purify and your skin feels renewed and muscles awakened. The organic garden welcomes guest participation as a helpful contribution and therapeutic exercise in planting and harvesting, watering and weeding, connecting through the rich soil. Meditation, group and private, and choral chanting enriches each day. Entertainment choices include a vast collection of movies screened in a theater room, a cricket net with bowling machine, a 25 meter lap pool with Jacuzzi, and a steam room as well. Jogging trails and fitness programs complete all that Shreyas offers. The daily cuisine is healthful, nourishing, and spiritually enriching. Some guests choose carefully guided cleanses, juices and teas. Dining together with new friends is filled with humble gratitude for the earth’s bounty yet an awareness of the poverty and hunger that lies beyond this protective enclave is also recognized. Mr. Balaji, whose skillful management of this Relais & Châteaux property has incorporated an element of voluntourism, emphasizes giving back to the community through a partnership with a local orphanage. Each guest is invited and encouraged to participate in meeting the children and donating time, material goods such as school uniforms, shoes, household items, or monetary gifts. This connection brings a wonderful final closure to the Shreyas experience. A passage from the beauty and reality of this country feels complete.

Shreyas Retreat

Top to Bottom: Shreyas Retreat’s organic garden; Shreyas Retreat’s 25 meter lap pool

I have left so much of India undiscovered, I know I will return. • FromLostToFoundTravel.com Ornate details of the Udaipur City Palace

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