THREE EXCLUSIVE STEP BY STEPS Pages 6, 8, 9
EXTRA!
PRODUCT SHOWCASE Pages 14-15
EXCLUSIVE OFFER!
d n i r G d r a H MAKES AMERICAN CREW PART OF THEIR JOURNEY
keep your beard game strong. no matter where the road takes you. Keep your beard clean with our leave-in Beard Foam Cleanser and tame it with our Beard Balm. To find out more about American Crew and the Harley Davidson #Stylefortheroad Campaign, contact our Customer Services Team on 0207 391 7440 Follow us at @americancrewuk
Contents EXTRA!
How do brand ambassador relationships actually work? What makes a brand thrive for 25 straight years? This special slice of Modern Barber shines a little light on three legendary brands – American Crew, Harley Davidson Motorcycles and UK barbering’s very own Hard Grind.
04
DAVID RACCUGLIA AND COLIN PETRIE
EXTRA! EXTRA!
C
olin Petrie co-founder of Hard Grind (@hardgrind_) thinks carefully about the brands he works with, so his new found status as American Crew (@ americancrewuk) Elite Member wasn’t just based on his own experience of the products but that of his well-loved team members too. Colin says “We’ve been approached many times by companies seeking ambassadors but I’ve always felt that it needs to be a relationship not a hand out. I wanted to work with a brand that I can believe in and that my team can believe in too. Initially we didn’t even know much about the products. So we started there and we fell in love with them. After that it was easy to put my hand up to brand involvement. Being invited as an Elite member has been very humbling. The team at American Crew were very open and accessible all the way from Imelda, my awesome account manager through to Lisa Jackson, the head of Revlon Professional UK and Ireland and even the founder David Raccuglia.” National Sales Manager for American Crew, Matthew Horder knows that putting products on the shelves of busy barbershops is a homecoming for the American Crew brand. It’s nearly 25 years since David Raccuglia launched. As the first cleanse, condition and style range to serve the male client, American Crew was created for the barbershop. Matt says “The partnership between American Crew and Hard Grind makes a lot of sense, Colin was seeking a brand to partner with, that they trusted and could connect with personally. American Crew partner with Hard Grind on
Find out more about the Harle y Davidson: Amer ican Crew Collab!
ALAN BEAK INTERVIEWI NG DAVID RACCUGLIA AT THE ACUMEN LAUNCH
many different levels with business support, events, education and co-branded digital assets. Ultimately though, Hard Grind have a wide range of customers of all ages and styles and we have great products that their staff and clients love using. American Crew has been at the forefront of the Men’s grooming market for nearly 25 years and Colin trusted that. We work with all types of businesses at American Crew…barbers, stylists and professionals from all over the UK and Ireland. They are all very different and we are able to tailor our support to suit their needs. We celebrate our 25th Anniversary in 2019, we have some amazing plans to animate that story and celebrate the journey and we can’t wait to share them!” Check the following pages for technical stepby-steps and the HG story…
INSIDE: 04 The Hard Grind Story 06 Cutting Step-by-step: Classic Slick Back 08 Styling Step-by step: Textured curly crop 09 Styling Step-by-step: Loose pomp 10 Colin Petrie: The Interview 12/13 Get the look 14 Storefront 18 All Star Challenge: Why enter?
EXTRA! FEATURES
THE ULTIMATE COLLABORATION – AMERICAN CREW AND HARLEY DAVIDSON This year sees the launch of the ultimate brand bro’mance – American Crew is teaming up with Harley Davidson to share their handsome journey.
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FEATURES EXTRA!
DAVID RACCUGLIA
A
merican Crew founder David Raccuglia is always a happy man but even more so on two wheels, he sees the new brand collab as a match made in heaven. “Harley is an iconic masculine American company that has a very distinct style. If you look at the way American Crew and Harley Davidson are expressed, at their imagery, they are a lot alike. It captures a sense of rebelliousness, a kind of style worth celebrating. We are doing a lot of shared events. Harley is part of a culture and a lifestyle that is a really good fit for American Crew. So our collaboration will be a lot of fun!” says David. That collab is also a great fit for Hard Grind. Colin is a Harley rider after all and as an irrepressible creative, he couldn’t help but make a short video to celebrate. Follow this link to watch the video. Colin says “When I heard about the collaboration it was the icing on the cake. Nothing but good things can come from two such iconic brands sharing opportunities and I’m so looking forward to it. I was so excited I made a video to show what an amazing fit they are.” DAVID RACCUGLIA
Photography: @morrismith WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 5
Step-By-Step THE CLASSIC SLICK BACK
EXTRA! FEATURES
Hard Grind is an access all areas kind’a shop. Everyone’s welcome. The team knocks out awesome all day, every day and there’s plenty of handsome classic work like this that walks out the door.
Before
Dampen hair down thoroughly and evenly to give better control through the cut. Create a horseshoe section through the round of the head dipping under the crown at the back.
Starting at the front on the sides, take diagonal sections pulling out at 90 degrees and cut to the desired length along the parietal ridge. Repeat on other side.
04/4B Using the side lengths as a guide, follow sections through the back and take small clean sections at 90 degrees, creating the desired length above the occipital bone.
Using your previously cut sections as guide for clipper-overcomb; start from the sides and work your way around getting tighter towards the hairline to create a graduated shape.
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05/5B To create tapered edges through sides and back start by putting guides in. First guide use 1 and half guard at 45 degree angle making sure that you don’t go behind the ear, then put in your 0 guide about 2.5cm lower, still on 45 degree angle. Then work down the guards using the edge of the clipper with flicking motion to blend out the two guides.
FEATURES EXTRA!
06 Before blending taper into the hair, use your detailer to clean and sharpen the outlines to create a strong shape on the perimeter of the cut.
07/7B
08
Using scissor-over-comb blend the tapered areas into the rest of the hair. Scissor-over-comb creates a softer blend perfect for longer cuts.
Take a vertical clean section through middle of the top horseshoe section. Use even tension and cut short to long making sure that you don’t take it too tight through the crown. Using small sections work across the head using the previously cut section as guide. Cross check by taking opposite sections. When balanced connect the top to the sides by connecting at 90 degrees.
09/9B Apply American Crew Matte Styling Cream evenly through midlengths and ends, comb through for even product coverage
10
Using a vent brush and a wrapping motion, dry the hair up and away from the face to add volume and a swept shape.
After
Products Used
11 Refine overall shape by crosschecking to take out any knuckle marks and weight. Through the tapered areas use the points of your scissors to pick out any dark spots and add softness to the blend.
12/12B Scoop a 10p piece sized amount of American Crew Cream Pomade and apply evenly through ends of the hair. Use a wide toothcomb to smooth the hair and build desired shape.
13 To finish use a straight razor to clean up the hairline and cheeks. Do not go into the hairline just clean up stray hairs and ‘peach fuzz’ hairs to sharpen the look.
American Crew Cream Pomade, 85g RRP £15.20 American Crew Matte Styling Cream 100ml RRP £12.30
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Showing OFF THE STYLING EXTRA! FEATURES
Creating styles that customers can recreate at home is top of the list for repeat business. It’s not about handsome once, it’s about as handsome as you can get for as long as you can. Here the Hard Grind’ers show off two styling step-by-steps to give that look the extra polish it deserves.
Before
Products Used American Crew Boost Powder 10g RRP £15.20 American Crew Cream Pomade, 85g RRP £15.20
THE LOOSE POMP
American Crew Fiber Cream, 100ml RRP £12.90
When the hair is dried and cooled work a 10p piece portion of American Crew Cream Pomade evenly through the hair to create a sharp but naturally finished shape.
After
Apply a 5p piece size portion of American Crew Fiber Cream to the mid lengths and ends to give the hair strong hold but a natural finish. Using a round bristle brush, dry the hair up and back to give lift and flow.
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Apply American Crew Boost Powder to the roots and finger dry to add extra volume and natural texture.
FEATURES EXTRA!
Before
Products Used American Crew Tech Series Control Foam 200ml £12.90 American Crew Matte Styling Cream 100ml RRP £12.30 American Crew Fiber, 85g RRP £15.20
THE TEXTURED CURLY CROP
When the hair has fully cooled, twist a small amount of American Crew Fiber through the ends of the curls to give it maximum definition.
After
Apply a generous amount of American Crew Techseries Control Foam evenly through the hair. The oils in the Techseries foam combat the frizz on curly hair. Diffuse the crown on a high heat and low speed until it is slightly damp.
Work a 5p size portion of American Crew Matte Styling Cream through semi-dry hair then carry on diffusing on a low speed until dry. The Control Foam has controlled the frizz which allows the Matte Styling Cream to give the hair a matte finish without making it look and feel dry or frizzy.
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EXTRA! FEATURES
So what’s the story Colin? How Hard was the Grind? Pretty hard as it turns out; especially when Hard Grind is only one part of Colin’s story and the whole chapter and verse started by accident (kind of).
Mural maker @steen_jones wi th Colin and business pa rtner Richard Davies outside their new Aban don Ship Bar
HARD GRIND: COLIN PETRIE 10 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
FEATURES EXTRA! COLIN’S WHAT’S AN AMERIC E IT R U ? S T FAVO C U ROD CREW P Pomade m a re C “I love er either st Powd and Boo ic guy ss a cl a r alone fo spicy se o th r fo or mixed ds.” tren
C
olin is a self-taught barber with a background in music and fashion. There are just two shops, one in Aberdeen and one in Dundee and right now that’s how Colin and co-founder Richard like it. From 18-21 Colin was a professional musician touring the world with a band called Silibil ‘n Brains. They were busy on the road and time poor, so Colin just pitched in. Silbil ‘n Brains were a hip hop rapper band from Scotland pretending to be American, it all started as a bit of a hoax because rapping in a Scottish accent was a tough sell. The band blew up…there’s even a documentary, a book, a movie coming. Google it. Colin says “I was a buyer for a streetwear company with five shops and 35 staff and I saw a gap in the market and decided to open my own shop. It was 6500 square feet. Massive. So I thought I would put a chair in one corner for when I had time to cut hair because I loved it. I call that shop Hard Grind Mark One. Before it was even Hard Grind. Soon I was cutting back to back and it was just me. It was six to seven months before I hired anyone. I knew I had to be better so I called Vicki Smith from S&B Barber Academy. She came one day a week for weeks. Getting training was a game changer for me and the fact that the customers kept coming. I kind of put everything I loved… skateboard and tattoo culture, art, music, fashion into one place and it’s worked.” Colin now has 20 staff and only two are local. The team is made up of passionate barbers from London, Australia and Europe that have made Hard Grind their home. “We opened Aberdeen after Dundee and we’ve been offered so many opportunities to expand. I didn’t come to this with no experience. I’m quite seasoned in business and I know that I never want to lose the personal touch. I
trust the people I work with. It’s a special thing to work with people and help them grow and reach their goals. That’s a privilege I take seriously,” explains Colin. Colin and his partner Richard decided to focus on their community in Dundee for expansion. The Waterfront or Downtown Dundee is seeing a huge regeneration and Hard Grind has been proud to be part of that process. “We believed in the Waterfront. When we came there was nothing and we made Hard Grind a destination store. The clothing store is across the street and the new bar we are opening is a few steps away. It’s a buzzing area now. Hard Grind is a lifestyle for me and that’s my vision. People can come and get a great cut. They can hang out and drink coffee, get a drink at the bar, pick up a shirt or hat. Long term I am going to create apartment rentals, all in the HG brand. It will be a total lifestyle offering,” explains Colin. Delivering that dream might take a lot of Hard Grind but hey, Colin is up for that. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 11
HAIR
1. Cleanse hair (and body) with American Crew 3-IN-1. 2. Apply a liberal dosage of American Crew Firm Hold Gel root to ends. 3. With hands/fingers and the heat of a blow dryer lift the front up away from the scalp focusing heat in this area to create height and structure memory. 4. Continuing to use hands/ fingers to direct the sides back and slightly down behind the ear.
5. Once the hair is dry and the desired shape is achieved apply American Crew Boost Spray at the scalp area for added anti gravity support. 6. Finish the style by applying a liberal dosage of American Crew Cream Pomade just above the scalp to ends. 7. With a paddle brush comb the hair into place and refine where needed.
HAIR
1. Cleanse hair (and body) with American Crew Daily Shampoo. 2. Apply to dry hair at the front scalp American Crew Boost Spray. 3. Add a liberal dosage of American Crew Fiber scalp to ends. 4. With a wide tooth comb sculpt in the shape focusing on the height in the front.
BEARD
1. Apply one pump of American Crew Beard Cleanser starting at the most dense area of the beard, allow to air dry. 2. Work into the beard a small dosage of American Crew Beard Balm.
EXTRA! FEATURES
AMERICAN CREW FIBER, 85G RRP £15.20/€17.00
AMERICAN CREW CREAM POMADE 85G RRP £15.20/€17.00
AMERICAN CREW BEARD BALM 60G RRP £13.50/€15.40
High hold with low shine, this product helps thicken, texturise and increase fullness to hair. Provides a strong, pliable hold with a matte finish. Works well in shorter hair.
Cream pomade with light/medium hold and low shine. A moisture-rich cream pomade that provides a natural look while taming hair leaving a low shine finish.
Beard conditioner and styler. A soft balm that tames and conditions the beard with flexible application for styling.
STOREFRONT GUIDE
AMERICAN CREW BEARD FOAM CLEANSER, 70ML RRP £13.50/€15.40
AMERICAN CREW MATTE STYLING CREAM 100ML RRP £12.30/€12.50
AMERICAN CREW TECH SERIES CONTROL FOAM 200ML £12.90/€14.90
Leave-in beard cleanser. Easy to use and quick absorbing dry foam with long lasting scent, leaving the beard clean and free of daily residue.
Medium hold styling product with no shine. Improve hair’s health and thickness, shields against environmental elements, so you get looks that last.
Styling foam that provides long lasting hold and control with medium shine. A foam that delivers volume, control and texture.
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FEATURES EXTRA!
GET THE LOOK PA GES 12/13
AMERICAN CREW DAILY SHAMPOO 250ML/*450ML/1000ML *RRP £11.30/€12.00
AMERICAN CREW 3-IN-1 TEA TREE 450ML RRP £16.00/€17.50
Shampoo for normal to oily hair and scalp. Breaks down excess oil in hair allowing it to be gently rinsed away.
Shampoo, conditioner and body wash Convenient 3-IN-1 product cleanses and conditions hair and skin leaving it feeling soft and with a refreshing scent.
AMERICAN CREW BOOST POWDER 10G RRP £15.20/€17.00 Gives hair lift, volume, thickness and a matte finish. Weightless powder adds grit for dramatic, gravity-defying texture which can be layered with virtually any other American Crew styling product.
Re-create the looks from American Crew’s Harley Davidson campaign for just £43.54 / €44.24 (worth £87.08 / €88.48 at list price). Call our Customer Services Team on 0207 391 7440 or contact your account manager and quote HARLEY DAVIDSON MODERN BARBER to receive your exclusive 50% discount
AMERICAN CREW TECH SERIES BOOST SPRAY 200ML RRP £12.90/€14.90
AMERICAN CREW FIRM HOLD GEL 250ML RRP £12.30/€13.00
Styling prep spray for volume with matte finish. Styling prep spray that boosts the hair from the roots and helps prepare the hair to create an unlimited number of looks.
The ultimate in holding power, alcoholfree formula enriched with natural extracts like Vitamin B5 to help hair look thicker with added shine.
AMERICAN CREW FIBER CREAM 100ML RRP £12.90/€14.90 Fibrous cream with medium hold and natural shine A styling cream that combines flexibility with control, gives your hair refined texture and a natural shine finish.
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NEW FROM AMERICAN CREW
INTRODUCING BEARD BALM &
BEARD FOAM CLEANSER
FOLLOW US @AMERICANCREWUK TO STOCK AMERICAN CREW CONTACT UK: 020 7391 7440 / CUSTOMERSERVICE.UK@REVLON.COM IRELAND: 0886 9313 / CUSTOMERSERVICE.IRE@REVLON.COM
EXTRA! FEATURES
AMERICAN CREW ALL STARS 2019 It’s time to get your head in the game. American Crew’s All Star competition opens for entry on 15th November.
T
he American Crew All Star Challenge 2019 closes on Friday March 1st 2019, to enter go to…allstarchallenge. americancrew.com. There is a whopping $10k and global recognition up for grabs. To enter you need to submit a profile and front facing black and white shot of the image that you feel best expresses the modern American Crew man. Sam Wall (@mrsamwall) was the 2018 UK Winner and his shot got him all the way to the Global Finals in Barcelona. Sam says “I entered because winning the UK All Star Challenge had been a very long term goal. I did it simply because I had literally dreamt about participating in the Global Finals and you couldn’t get there without winning the UK. I’m still a bit shocked that it came true in Barcelona. I had entered for a few years and so ahead of creating my entry I really did some research on where I might be going wrong. I reflected on the judge’s feedback, looked into what the American Crew brand represented and what they were looking for in a successful entry and I tailored my look towards the American Crew Style. I took inspiration from last year’s look and although they are very different styles you will still see similarities. Winning the UK opened doors and got me noticed on a national level but once Barcelona came, well that’s when I got to really kick it up a notch and it took me international and I feel my growth has been very quick since then. Any advice I would give to people who want to enter would be to just do it. Get rid of that fear. It’s so hard when you get knocked back or to even put your work out there in the first place but we are never ‘failing’ or ‘losing’ as it’s really the only way we can grow and learn. Don’t be scared and don’t take failure badly just use it as your motivation for the future!” 18 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
Give yourself a tune up. American Crew 3-IN-1 shampoo, conditioner and body wash, invigorates your skin and hair whenever you need to refresh and reset. To find out more about American Crew and the Harley Davidson #Stylefortheroad Campaign, contact our Customer Services Team on 0207 391 7440 Follow us at @americancrewuk
Substance is the ultimate style.
Introducing American Crew® ACUMEN™ The first regime focused brand for men’s Shower, Shave, Care and Style.
Available in selected, exclusive salons and barbershops throughout UK & Ireland. To find out more about American Crew® ACUMEN™, contact our Customer Services Team on 0207 391 7440 or follow us at @americancrewuk