Brands to buy . Services to shop . Stuff to see. OCT - DEC 2018
REVVING UP RETAIL FOR CHRISTMAS
Contents Issue 20 | October - December 2018
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he Christmas season is upon us. It’s amazing how it manages to creep up on you, year-in-year out. The seasonal shopping frenzy is an opportunity not to be missed. For shops that think ahead there are plenty of chances to add revenue and profit to the bottom line before the end of 2018. Check out how Kevin Vorley of KBarbers Emporium takes care of Christmas business on page 20 and take a gander at some prime retail stock too. Our guide delivers inspiration for the brands that are serving your industry. Click the links where they appear to take you to any brand’s online space. On page 14 it’s all about the curl. That amazing but tricky texture can be friend or fo for lots of hair professionals and in this feature we showcase advice from barbers that clearly love it. On page 28 take a look at the story of The Outline Creative Team. You can find out how and why five barbers are putting their creative heads together and delivering some beautiful work. Last but not least catch up with the one and only Simon Shaw with his regular MB column the Shaw Thing. Simon gives his tips on keeping it real. Next up! 2019, bring it on!
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NEWSROOM 6 Snippets and stories from in, around and on the industry
FEATURES 10 Why men buy hair products: Blogger Carl Thompson delivers the gen 14 Curl Power: it’s all about the curls 20 Revving up Retail for Christmas: get ready!
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Rachel Gould Editor
Editor and publisher: Rachel Gould rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Design and Production: Annie Bartley design@anniebartley.co.uk Advertising: rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Cover Credits: Our cover star is Mercedes Paginton @ mercedespaginton. Photography Robert Braid @r.braid. .
SHOPPING 24 Storefront: Stuff you need and gear you want.
SOCIAL 28 The Outline Creative Team: making the dream work 32 The Shaw Thing: home of Simon Shaw’s regular column
TOP TIPS
32 Find us online: modernbarber.co.uk Twitter/Insta: @modernbarbermag, FB Modern Barber Magazine Call on: 01295 533755. For all online and print advertising enquiries, please contact rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Modern Barber Ltd is registered in the UK. Registration number: 06084337. VAT number: 178993237 Registered and correspondence address: Three Acre Barn, Thorpe Road, Upper Wardington, Oxon OX17 1SP. Subscriptions can be securely purchased through modernbarber.co.uk/subscribe
40 Top Tips on e-marketing and online booking
UK subscriptions: 1 year, 4 issues £20 post paid. Intl subscriptions: 1 year, 4 issues £40 post paid. Printed by Pensord Press Ltd. www.pensord.co.uk © Modern Barber Magazine accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no reponsibility can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publishers.
Modern Barber’s circulation has been independently audited and verified by the Audit Bureau of Circulations (abcstandards.org.uk) and reaches over 10,000 independent addresses.
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Stories on, in and about the industry… Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag Andy’s Barbers Celebrates!
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t’s almost a year since Andy Willis of Andy’s Barbers in Bicester (@andysbarbershopbicester) moved to his swanky new location. It was a huge investment to deliver the premium look and feel that Andy was looking for but without a doubt that investment has paid off. Andy says “We are busier now than we’ve ever been but we need to be because there’s more competition than ever before. When we opened 10
DYLAN WITH HIS SUPPORT NETWORK BEFORE AND AFTER THE SHAVE
Mates matter
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cancer diagnosis is devastating at any age but even more shocking for the young, so when 16 year old Dylan told barber Ethan Stubbs of Blackout Barbershop in Largs that he was facing chemotherapy for Hodgkins Lymphoma, he found it difficult to hold back the tears. Three weeks later Ethan was contacted by Dylan’s friends. They wanted to show their support for Dylan plus raise money for the Teenage Cancer Trust. So Ethan obliged. Ethan says “Every single one of the boys deserve so much respect and recognition, not only for raising awareness and
“I couldn’t be happier with how the business has grown and I am looking forward to the next 10 years.” years ago we were the fifth barber shop in Bicester, now there’s 12. So clearly Bicester is a thriving barber town. With 10 cutting stations and a popular VIP room I couldn’t be happier with how the business has grown and I am looking forward to the next 10 years.” Andy even found an innovative use for his previous shop location and transformed it into a The Groom Room, a haven devoted to male skin and body treatments. Congratulations to Andy and the team. 6 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
funds but for showing such courage, character and support for their friend in tough times. I made it a fun visit by guiding them through shaving each others heads. I then finished them all off. There was a lot of laughter and a great atmosphere!” Shout out goes to Sean Farrell, Robbie Graham, Ross Milne, Luke Hamilton, Rory O’Neill, Craig Hepburn, Connor Tarran, Euan Conway, Jamie Noble, Stephen Hill, Benjamin Jarvie, Michael Kemp. The donation page is still open at www.justgiving.com/fundraising/ oneallover. So far the boys have raised 843% of their £750 target, a whopping £6323. Amazing!
Dates to remember 14th October 2018 – Salon International hosting NHF’s Britain’s Best and Wahl Barber of the Year. Come and support! 4th November 2018 - NHF Business Awards – Finalists for Best Barbering Business are 18Fourteen Male Grooming, MR Barbers, Philip Nicholas and The Master Barbers. 28th February 2019 – All Star Challenge Final closes for entry.
ANDY WILLIS
2nd/3rd June 2019 Barber Connect
OXFORDSHIRE’S MULTI-AWARD WINNING BARBER SHOP
Celebrating 10 Years in Business 10 Cutting Stations • Hot Towel Shaves VIP Area • Air Con • Wi-Fi 01869 244 488 | info@andysbarbers.biz
C4 Pioneer Square, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6FA
andysbarbers.biz
WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 7
Apollo 2 Icon, the diamond-quilted Apollo with contrast piping.
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C L A S S I C
A R A N G E O F 19 B R U S H ES . E XC LU S I V E TO P R O F ES S I O N A L S
hello@kentsalon.com | 01442 232623 | kentsalon.com
F E AT U R E
Carl Thompson is an award winning lifestyle, grooming and fashion blogger (carlthompson. co.uk). He has the gen on why men make the buying choices they do on hair products and offers his tips on how to capitalise on retail sales in the shop.
WHY MEN BUY HAIR PRODUCTS By Carl Thompson
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F E AT U R E
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recent study shows 66% of men report they seldom or never purchase their hair care or styling products at the salon or barbershop. Quite a staggering proportion considering. Having frequented a fair few different barbers in my time I’ve found one truism, barbers miss out on up-selling. So here’s a few notes on how your customers may well be thinking… Crowbarring the benefits of a certain product into the conversation has me looking around for hidden cameras, like I’m in The Truman Show. Conversely, trying the casual approach by attempting to sell me products with one foot out of the door, just so that the barber can tell their boss they tried, is both pointless and feels like a lie. So what makes me buy products from a barber? Firstly, guys are still very brand loyal; although they have become more diversified, more options, corporate distrust what have you - 77 percent of consumers have the tendency to return to their favourite brands over and over again. When it comes to grooming products I do have my go-to brands, Tom Ford, American Crew, Murdock, but I’m also keen to mix things up, for the sake of variety.
“Although they have become more diversified, more options, corporate distrust what have you - 77 percent of consumers have the tendency to return to their favourite brands over and over again. When it comes to grooming products I do have my go-to brands, Tom Ford, American Crew, Murdock, but I’m also keen to mix things up, for the sake of variety.” So what makes me pick up something new in a barbers is knowing my barber has listened to me. He (or
she) has not only ingested my seasons forecast for Crystal Palace but also deciphered my muddled instructions on how I like to style my barnet. Like most men I lack the ability to articulate exactly how I like to style my hair and how I like it to perform. It’s easier than it sounds but I’m no Ian Fleming. Words like textured, fade, shape are very ill-defined words that can encompass a lot of things but a promotional photo of Aidan Turner starring in The Lieutenant of Inishmore leaves little room for ambiguity. It might be defeatist to resort to a photo but it’s by far the easiest way to convey an image because knowing the barber has understood my needs is important. However, the very next thing they need to do is earn my trust. The best way they can earn my trust is by establishing themselves as the authority on all products they have to hand. He (or she!) needs to be borderline savant. Like Dustin Hoffman in Rain Man reeling off facts about plane crashes, they need to give me the absolute definitive answer to all my questions. Once we’ve established the barber is the professional expert of all they survey, next they need to do the rule of three. Give me three options on products that will do the job. Quickly dismiss one of those products and qualify the reasoning with something pithy like ‘this will be too active’ or ‘this is overpriced’. Dismissing one with an honest reason will tell me they are incorruptible. That leaves me with two options, not one. If I’m left with two options, I’ll choose one or the other. If I’m left with one, it’s a yes or a no, and the barber runs the gauntlet. That’s the sales part. Obviously each barber should have things to hand that I can reach and feel. I’m like most men that will buy something on impulse simply because it’s accessible. When it comes to actual grooming products I’m a sucker for anything anti-ageing. A barber just needs to tell me why it’s antiageing and what the ingredients are that make this magic happen. For example, I know Sandalwood Oil is anti-ageing but get in the weeds
“Once we’ve established the barber is the professional expert of all they survey, next they need to do the rule of three. Give me three options on products that will do the job. Quickly dismiss one of those products and qualify the reasoning with something pithy like ‘this will be too active’ or ‘this is overpriced’. Dismissing one with an honest reason will tell me they are incorruptible. That leaves me with two options, not one. If I’m left with two options, I’ll choose one or the other. If I’m left with one, it’s a yes or a no, and the barber runs the gauntlet.” and tell me why Sandalwood Oil is anti-ageing. Again I know Vitamin E stimulates hair follicles but what distinguishes Vitamin E from the other Vitamins. At the same time be careful you’re not reeling off facts like it’s a press release. I know right…it’s a tricky line to tread but up-selling is not always about talking, it’s mostly about listening. Before landing the role of James Bond, George Lazenby was a model for Big Fry Chocolate. Before that he was a used car salesman; a terrible one. He was so bad his boss sent him away on a sales course. On that course he was told to ‘stop talking, start listening’. He returned from the course and became the best employee in the firm. I’d like to offer this advice to most people, that listening is really the best way of selling. To quote retired United States Navy SEAL Jocko Willink, ‘By listening I get to know everything. I know what I know and now I know what you know’. So listen hard and listen up. I’m in the chair, and I’m there for the taking. Thanks for the intel Carl!
WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 11
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F E AT U R E
CURL POWER! When it’s good, it’s very very good and when it’s bad, it’s horrid! Curls and waves can be a curse or a crowning glory. The barber can be the deciding factor.
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very girl loves a curl so helping barbershop customers make their waves and curls go with the flow can give their barber hero status. Too short, too round, too long in the wrong places and that curly customer can leave looking like a bobble head or worse. One barbershop that keeps the curl and texture on point and HAIR BRADLEY HARRIS in style is The Barber Room PHOTO GREG BLOOR (@barberroom) in Coventry. Greg Bloor says “We see a lot of curly and wavy hair in the shop. Many of our customers have been growing it out and in some cases they have had short hair so long, that they didn’t even know HAIR TONY HARESIGN/PHOTO LIAM OAKES they had curls! Now they don’t know what to do with “A classic error is cutting the hair wet them. As barbers we are “A classic and not leaving room for it to curl up. always trying to work with error is You need to leave 25% more hair in the curl and promote that weight and length. If you cut a square texture. It’s a balancing act because you cutting layer in the top, you get heaviness in really need to work with the client to find the hair wet and not the sides and no-one wants to look out their routine and how long they are like Leo Sayer. If you take it too short willing to spend on their hair.” Unlike leaving room for it to curl around the ear in the mid-length, straighter textures that can be styled up. You need to leave you get a mushroom effect. Too into place with product, Greg finds that 25% more hair in weight short around the front and you get curly styles succeed or fail on the actual a feathered, feminine result,” details cut. Curly hair has volume built right and length. If you cut a Greg. Greg recommends looking to in, so really paying attention to the way square layer in the top, film and media for successful curly role the curl behaves will tell the barber a lot models such as Kit Harrington, Harry about how to shape the style. Minimum you get heaviness in the Styles and Orlando Bloom and says product, minimum handling and a ‘wash sides and no-one wants “The best ones are the ones that don’t and go’ cut is the ideal way for customers to look like Leo Sayer.” look like they have put in effort at all!” to manage those waves and curls. 14 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
F E AT U R E
Product Inspiration
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KIPA SEA SALT TEXTURISING SPRAY Medium hold spray for a textured matt finish. RRP £6.50. kipa.co.uk
EVO LIQUID ROLLERS CURL BALM Perfect curls every time. No fluff! RRP £21.00. astonandfincher.co.uk
DAPPER DAN SALT SPRAY Great on curls for hold and texture. RRP £10. Dapperdanuk.com
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AMERICAN CREW TECH SERIES CONTROL FOAM Provides strong, lasting hold and medium shine. RRP £8.50. americancrew.com/ @americancrewuk
OSMO CURL FLUID It enhances all kinds of natural and permed curls, even unruly ones, for frizz-free volume, without stickiness. RRP £ 8.00. osmouk.com
PAUL MITCHELL SPRING LOADED FRIZZ FREE SHAMPOO Sulfate free, rich hair cleanser to keep frizz at bay and leave curls soft and frizz free. RRP £17.50. paul-mitchell.co.uk
HAIR SAM RINTOUL/ PHOTO LIAM OAKES
“We see a lot of curly and wavy hair in the shop. Many of our customers have been growing it out and in some cases they have had short hair so long, that they didn’t even know they had curls! Now they don’t know what to do with them.” Another fan of the curl is Tony Haresign (@hairbytonyharesign), owner of Esquire Barbershop in Fife. Tony’s tips on cutting curly hair are “keep sections clean, use the wide end of the comb to take sections and then switch around to use the thinner end of the comb, to keep the tension. You need to consider how the curl sits on the fingers and cut it as it fold over the fingers. I often use clippers to cut the top sections of a curly haircut, giving a crisp clean finish to the hair, preventing frizzy ends. Don’t point cut, it will just make it frizzy.” Curly and wavy textures can be intimidating for students too but Mike Taylor of The Great British Barbering Academy (@gbbarberingacademy) gets his students to focus on the basics first. “Be cautious, you can always cut more off. Focus on the degree of curl and the tension you are going to use to cut it. Don’t pull the curl out, let it relax and work with the curl not against it. Watch constantly to see how the curl reacts when it is released. You need to work with every section with the same amount of tension as the curliness of the hair can vary greatly around the head.”
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Get it right the first time In an age where everything is available in just a few clicks, it is now the norm to order everything online and wait for the goods to arrive in the following days. But when is it time to stop and get a better idea of what you are purchasing?
From groceries to clothing to cars everything we could possibly need is now available to buy online, from the comfort of our own home, or whilst we are going about our daily lives. We don’t seem to have time any more for browsing the shops, and I’m sure every one of us can recall a time that something was delivered that has no resemblance to the image you saw on the screen the night before. The question is - when is it important to make time to ensure you are spending your money wisely? Take the barber chair for example - relied on every single day to provide comfort for your clients and reliability for you. In fact a barber
chair in a busy shop can typically be sat on up to 9360 times a year. Undoubtedly, this is one thing to spend a bit of time looking into, rather than “adding to basket” based on a photo and a glossy website alone. But where to start? If you can only make it to one shop, why not try Barber Equipment Centre - just 5 minutes from the M1. They have been around for 25 years now and it is the largest barber equipment showroom in the UK, with 2 floors of new, refurbished and antique furniture, and multiple themed rooms full of barber chairs of all different brands and budgets which you can try before you buy.
“It’s so easy and convenient to click online but sometimes it pays to make the effort to go and try the goods in person when making bigger and more important investments - it will save time and money in the long run.”
Barber Equipment Centre
Leicester Road, Lutterworth, LE17 4HF www.barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk 01455 553 558
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F E AT U R E
REVVING UP RETAIL FOR CHRISTMAS
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ast December, according to the National Office of Statistics, UK consumer retail spending hit a whopping £43 billion. Up and down the country consumers will be racking their brains for gifts for their relatives and friends, so offering them a chance to buy at the barbershop can put extra cash in the till at a busy time of year. Kevin Vorley of K Barbers Emporium (@ kbarbersemporium) has two busy shops in Essex. Kevin has been reaping the rewards of seasonal success for years. At Christmas time he heavily promotes his gift vouchers for services and shaving experiences (always popular) and creates gift sets from his
very own product range. The whole shop is dressed for the season to get customers in the mood and a great deal of time and effort is invested in appealing displays. Kevin says “My wife used to be a window dresser, so she creates Christmas for both shops. I’ve been doing it for 12 years and we plan well ahead. We start by brainstorming in September for the kind of gifts and gift sets we will offer. We look at current trends by looking at men’s magazines and we look at our computerised till data to tell us what’s worked well before. All the barbers are briefed and trained to bring the customer’s attention to what we have to offer. It takes three months to make Christmas retail success happen and if you leave it to December
It’s coming… like it or not… so you may as well capitalise by offering your customers (and their partners) a little retail therapy.
then you are too late.” Without doubt most of Kevin’s retail sales are bought by women and the budget for gifts ranges from £10 to £100. Great window displays and marketing ahead of the season will help drive those girlfriends, mothers, wives and friends into the shop to tick a few gifts off the list.
More shops that boss Christmas retail The Master Barbers @themasterbarbers Savills Barbers @savillsbarbers Envy Barbers @envybarbers
CHRISTMAS GIFT IDEAS Why not stock up? Trade enquiries welcome
TABAC ORIGINAL Tabac Original is classified as a sharp, spicy, floral fragrance - a blend of lavender, citrus, and warm florals. The gift set includes 1 x Tabac Aftershave Lotion 50ml and 1 x Tabac Showergel 100ml. RRP £9.99. Trade enquiries customerservices@fddint.co.uk. 20 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
CAPTAIN FAWCETT’S MOUSTACHE GUARD CUP Available in right and left handed versions. Invented by 1860’s British potter Harvey Adams to keep top lip topiary safe and dry. Designed in the UK and hand-crafted in Stoke On Trent. RRP £22.00. captainfawcett.com.
DAPPER DAN ‘HAIRY MAN’ GIFT SET Available in every variation from the Dapper Dan styling range plus a 15ml Beard Oil and Wooden Beard Comb. Perfect for keeping every hairy man dapper. RRP £24.00. Great trade discounts available. Dapperdanuk.com.
HOT PICK!
ELECTRIC INK TATTOO CARE GIFT BOX Specialist aftercare packed with active ingredients to keep skin nourished and tattoos looking fresh and defined. Perfect for the skin artist enthusiast. Vegan friendly too. RRP £32.99. electricinkskin.com.
BULLDOG SKINCARE KIT FOR MEN Three products, one washbag. Perfect for frequent flyers and gym buffs. Includes Original Face Wash (150ml), Original Face Scrub (125ml) and Original Moisturiser (100ml). Every product is cruelty free. RRP £15.00. bulldogskincare.com.
BELOW THE BELT ULTIMATE GROOMING GIFT SET Stay Fresh above and below the belt with this Ultimate Grooming set, featuring NEW Anti-Perspirant Deodorant, hero product Fresh & Dry Balls, and takeanywhere Instant Clean Balls. Packed into an exclusive waterproof washbag, it’s perfect for the gym or weekends away. All products in best-loved Fresh fragrance – crisp, oceanic top notes, with a woody base. RRP £19.99. For trade enquiries contact ELL@vivalis.co.uk/call 01225 759 623
HOT PICK!
MITCH FULLY CHARGED GIFT BOX The perfect cleanse and stye gift set from MITCH includes Heavy Hitter (250ml), Construction Paste (75ml), Clean Cut 85g. RRP £32.00. salon-success.co.uk
AMERICAN CREW LIMITED EDITION ESSENTIAL SHAVING KIT Quality washbag which includes Ultra Gliding Oil (50ml), Moisturising Shave Cream (150ml), Revitalizing Toner (150ml), Face Balm SPF15 (50ml). Leaves every man super smooth and smelling handsome. RRP £34.00. americancrew.com.
LABEL.MEN GROOMING ESSENTIALS GIFT SET Three step grooming kit. Label. MEN Scalp Puryfing Shampoo to strengthen and build thickness. Label.MEN Scalp Tonic to stimulate growth, Label.MEN Deconstruction for lasting texture and separation and matt finish all packed inside this luxe washbag. RRP £26.75. Labelm.com.
MITCH POWER UP GIFT BOX The ultimate stocking filler with a 2-in-1 shampoo conditioner Double Hitter (250ml) and strong hold styling in Reformer (85g). RRP £25.00. salon-success.co.uk
OAK BEARD SCENTS The OAK BEARD SCENTS are perfume oils, which combine invigorating fragrance with nourishing care for the beard in a revolutionary way. The three scents pay homage to the culture of barbershops worldwide - Barber of Athens, Barber of Rome, Barber of Egypt. RRP £30.00. oakbeardcare. com. Trade enquiries uk@oakbeardcare.com
REUZEL S**T, SHOWER, SHAVE GIFT SET Gift set from Holland’s finest Lords of the Lard Reuzel, taking care of the morning musts. Includes sCandle (113g) scented toilet candle, Daily Shampoo (350ml) and Shave Cream 95g. RRP £21.99. reuzelpomade.com. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 21
M IK E TA YL OR ED UC AT IO N BA RB ER IN G RE SO UR CE BO OK Following the huge, global success of the first Barbering Resource Book, the Barbering Resource Book Part II will soon be available in Salon Services stores across the UK and online at www.salon-services.com or www.greatbritishbarberingacademy.com
GET YOUR C OPY NOW! Buy in-store or order online at www.salon-services.com or www.greatbritishbarberingacademy.com
BY
F O R U R B A N M E N W I T H A D I S T I N C T TA S T E P R O F ES S I O N A L P R O D U C TS FO R A L L BA R B ER I N G A N D G R O O M I N G N EEDS; H A I R C A R E , H A I R S T Y L I N G , FAC E C A R E & B E A R D C A R E
NEW RANGE IN STORE & ONLINE
Stay inspired!
salon-services.com/barbershop
PRODUCTS
Takara Belmont Mini-Cabi in steel
Limited Edition Cordless Super Taper
Keep shaving towels hot and ready for action in this ultra sleek, reliable towel cabinet. Complete with a removable basket and drain tray, an essential part of your shaving services. Price: £320. Call 020 7515 0333. takarahairdressing.co.uk
30th anniversary release for Salon International of this iconic clipper. Adjustable blade, 90 minute run time, dual voltage. Price: £89.99 ex VAT wahlglobal.com
Babyliss Cordless Super Motor Clipper Japanese steel blades, high torque brushless motor, outstanding precision and performance. Perfect for all hair types and styles. Two hour run time with lithium technology. Price: £165. Babylisspro.co.uk
LIMITED EDITION
Kent Salon Staggered Styling Brush
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Powerful styling clay bulks up texture with a dry, ultramatte finish. (85g) RRP £14.95. paul-mitchell.co.uk.
Round ended quills set in an anti-static silicone head. Perfect for precision styling. Price: £25 inc VAT. kentbrushes.com.
MR. Barbers Sea Salt Paste
KIPA Toffee Paste Toffee fibre paste is the ultimate styling product giving you extreme hold and definition that lasts. Soft pliable paste gives hair texture with a low shine finish. Price £8.45. Trade enquiries wlecome. kipa.co.uk.
MITCH MATTERIAL
THE BARBER RANGE SCISSORS The Barber Range scissors are a perfect mixture of style AND substance. The sleek, premium look and the superb cutting make them a must have for any barber. Price: £99 including VAT. barberblades.co.uk
A revolutionary new paste that will create the ultimate Matte finish with extreme texture for any length of hair. RRP £12.50. MRBarbers.co.uk/shop
PRODUCTS
JACK DEAN IVAN ZOOT COMB SYSTEM Designed by ‘ClipperGuy’ Ivan Zoot this comb with snap on guards can be used for clipper AND scissor over comb cutting for guard numbers 1 to 4. . Great for precision fading, blending and tapering. Exclusive to Barber Blades until launch at Salon International. Price: £15 inc VAT. barberblades. co.uk/denmanbrush.com
ANDIS NATION SPECIAL EDITION USPRO FADE LI CLIPPER Burban Hair & Scalp Tonic Stimulates the scalp for strong and healthy growth includes Vitamin B5 and Caffeine. No need to rinse! 500ml Price: £16.50. salon-services.com.
Launched to acknowledge the passion of Andis fans worldwide. Full colour design, lightweight, powerful rotary motor, two hour run time, cord/ cordless, carbon steel adjustable, five attachment combs. Price: £93.00 andis.com
Dapper Dan Sea Salt Spray Leave to dry for a natural matte texture or blow dry into hair to create thickness, volume and hold. Manly sandalwood scent. RRP: £10.00. dapperdanuk.com.
Voyager Barber Chair by REM The REM Voyager Barber Chair in black with feature stitching. 3 Year Warranty. Price from around £935 ex VAT. rem.co.uk
Label:m Cool Blonde Shampoo Cleanses, hydrates and ditches the brassy tones in blondes. (250ml) RRP £14.95 inc VAT. toniandguy.co.uk.
VINTAGE STRIPED GOWN Comfortable, lightweight cutting gown to protect the client in the chair. Handsome pinstripe look. Price: £13 ex VAT. Call 01455 553 558. Barberequipment centreuk.co.uk WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 25
“ Music definitely impacts the salon
positively. It just gives it a good vibe.”
One.a Salon, Caernarfon
WHAT DO I NEED TO DO? If you currently have a music licence from PPL and/or PRS for Music, there is nothing you need to do. We’ll be in touch with you when your current PPL and/or PRS for Music licence is due for review and guide you through the new process to obtain TheMusicLicence. If you currently pay by direct debit, there is no change there either; don’t worry, it will be transferred over without you having to do a thing.
THINKING OF PLAYING MUSIC IN YOUR BUSINESS? Contact us today and talk to us about your music use and business needs and we can ensure that you are correctly, and legally, covered to play or perform music on your premises with TheMusicLicence.
WHERE WILL MY MONEY GO? After our business costs, the licence fees you pay for TheMusicLicence go back to the people involved in making music via our parent companies PPL and PRS for Music. And it isn’t just the globally successful artists who benefit from these royalties either. There are thousands of session musicians, composers, songwriters and emerging artists who are entitled to be paid for their work; so when you are covered by TheMusicLicence you are helping to ensure all musicians and performers can continue to produce the music you love!
HOW COULD THEMUSICLICENCE BENEFIT MY BUSINESS? Still unsure if music could enhance your business? Head to our website and hear a number of our customers’ views on how playing music is important for their business, large and small, from a coffee shop chain to an independent hair salon.
Music is commercial oxygen, so let’s turn it up and put the essential energy of music at the heart of your business!
THE NEW MUSIC LICENSING EXPERIENCE MUSIC LICENSING MADE SIMPLE The UK’s music licensing organisations PPL and PRS for Music have been issuing licences and collecting music royalties for decades. Previously, most businesses and organisations had to obtain separate music licences from PPL and PRS for Music. However, they have listened to feedback from you, their customers, who wanted a more straightforward approach to buying a licence to legally play music in public. This is where we come in. PPL PRS Ltd is the new joint venture between the two companies, set up with the aim to provide the best music licensing experience possible. The new joint licence, TheMusicLicence, has been launched – providing you with one licence, one invoice and one point of contact, making it simpler for you to get a licence to legally play and perform music in public. Businesses and organisations will now be covered by TheMusicLicence for the use of the vast majority of commercially released music available – millions of songs and recordings, including the most popular and well-loved music, not just from the UK but from around the world. PPL and PRS for Music will continue to distribute the fees collected by PPL PRS to their respective members - performers and record companies for PPL and the songwriters, composers and publishers for PRS for Music. This income is important to individuals and companies within UK music industry; it supports the future of new music and helps to enable people to make a living out of writing, playing and performing music.
pplprs.co.uk
Turn it up! 0800 0720 808 Quote ‘Modern Barber’
SOCIAL
THE OUTLINE CREATIVE TEAM: MAKING THE DREAM WORK
Five barbers have found a way to pool their talents and express themselves doing what they love…they’ve called it The Outline Creative Team @outline_ creativeteam. Watch out for them! 28 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
B
arbers aren’t just grafters, they are creatives too and it can be tough to stay inspired day-in-day-out behind the chair. The barbers of The Outline Creative Team have found a way to do just that. Myles Lewis, Sam Campagna, Jake Lansley, Nathan Bradbury and Ben Morrison had a chance to work together on stage and the idea snowballed. Myles says “When I was asked to put together a team to present at HJ
IMAGES RARE BREED PHOTOGRAPHY
Live I involved the guys and it went down really well plus we loved doing it. We realised that we had a good thing going. It was a great way to showcase our work. We share a creative ethos that bridges the gap between barbering, fashion and grooming and brings together all the genres of this creative industry. After the show Simon Shaw asked us to come down to Wahl HQ to have a chat about doing some stuff for him, so formalising our team into a creative team made perfect sense.” The stage presentation
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Outline Team Members Fact File
“We didn’t want to patronise the audience, we knew they could all cut hair already, so we decided to show them what we do creatively and present our ‘Hypebeast’ collection. We took care of the whole look, not just the hair. The collection was inspired by contemporary clothing and took references from skate culture and brands like Bathing Ape and Supreme.”
Myles Lewis @myleslewisbarber Owner of Stag and Dagger @staganddagger Years in barbering: 4
Nathan Bradbury @nathbradburyhair Owner of After Image Men’s Hairdressing & Grooming @after_imagehair. Years in barbering: 12
Sam Campagna @sam_campagna Owner of Alternative Barbering Company @alternativebarberingco. Years in barbering: 20
that caught the eye of Simon Shaw was a blend of demonstration and model presentation delivering inspiration rather than education to the audience. “We didn’t want to patronise the audience, we knew they could all cut hair already, so we decided to show them what we do creatively and present our ‘Hypebeast’ collection. We took care of the whole look, not just the hair. The collection was inspired by contemporary clothing and took references from skate culture and brands like Bathing Ape and Supreme. It was a level of professionalism that Simon liked and a couple of weeks later we signed as Ambassadors for Wahl,”
Ben Morrison @benji_thebarber94 Barber at Alternative Barbering Company @alternativebarberingco Years in barbering: 4
Jake Lansley @jakelansley_jbs Owner of Jakes Barbershop @jbs_lifestyle Years in barbering: 9
says Myles. The team works with Wahl to test products and give advice to other barbers; in return they get opportunities to showcase their work, plus education and mentoring. Myles is the founder of Guerrilla Barbering, a charitable group of barbers raising funds to support homeless charities. It’s through this network that the original members of the Outline Creative Team began working together. Guerrilla is soon rebranding and working closely with the BFBA (British Female Barbers Association) to create a look book raising funds for Childline; Myles even has Love Island winner Kem Cetinay on board! The Outline Creative team is always working on something and their latest collection is on pages 57-61. These pared down images deliver broad skills, always keeping it real. The Wahl relationship is just the start for Outline and their vision is to provide brands across and beyond the hair industry with creative direction, support and services – for the Outline Creative Team it’s all about total look. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 29
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SOCIAL
From Good to Great to Unstoppable
SIMON SHAW AND FRANK RIMER
old on tight!! The busy season is upon us, hope you are all well and enjoyed the summer. The weather was fantastic and the football wasn’t bad either!
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It was an emotional rollercoaster, all the highs and lows of a week with Simon Shaw when the World Cup is on. We were out there for an exciting project that I can’t wait to reveal at the beginning of next year.
I had to suffer watching the World Cup semi-final in an Irish bar in the centre of Chicago with our social media guru, Chris Barleycorn and Thy Barber, Frank Rimer.
I’ve been reading some great motivational books at the moment, one of which is Relentless by Tim S. Grover and focuses on what it takes to get great
32 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
results and achieve whatever you desire. Also, loving @thepissedoffbarber on instagram, so funny. I’m sure it’s you, Jonny BaBa! One of the most poignant things I have read on social media is Joth Davies’ of Savills Barbers in Sheffield Instagram post on barbering and social media. The industry is thriving, but as we know, wherever there is growth there is are leaches that are prepared to cash in on the hard work that we have been putting in, but without putting any of the work in themselves. There are far too many barbers worried about their egos, how many likes their photo shopped post has got on social media or what other barbers think about them. Well, guess what guys? Your customer doesn’t care about any of that, focus on them, they pay your wages. I know reading this, you probably think that I am a big diva?? You’re right but that comes with hard work, dedication and being in the industry for over 30 years. You can see that whenever we do something at Wahl, it’s professional in every aspect and whatever we do, we put the customer first. Being a good leader to your team is so important. You set the tone for your staff, if you’re happy and want to win, your team will follow. There’s a huge difference between good, great and unstoppable so keep putting the hard yards in and don’t get caught up in the battle of the egos. I’m really looking forward to the ‘Wahl Barber of the Year’ competition at Salon International this year. We have a great line-up of finalists, the talent gets better every year. Hope you all have a great Christmas run-in and take loadsa ‘doe! Over an out.
SOCIAL
Products of the Issue
Tip of the Issue: Servicing and Maintenance
D WINNING EDUCATOR ALISON BRIGHTWELL
Yeezy V2 Oreo Just purchased these bad boys, if you can get hold of a pair then I recommend them. Serious bit of kit and massive shout out to Luxury Locker (luxury-locker.com) for hooking me up.
Barber of the Issue: Alison Brightwell
A
o not underestimate the power of a little bit of maintenance each day…oiling your blades is crucial to ensuring you maintain the same cutting quality as the day you bought your clipper. Not only that, the right maintenance can save you a lot of money as you don’t need to fork out for a new blade every month. OIL YOUR BLADES AFTER EVERY CLIENT! 3 drops along the top of the blade, one either side, turn the clipper on for a few seconds so the oil runs through, switch off, wipe away excess oil and you’re good to go. It literally takes 10 seconds. Simple. As. That!
bsolutely massive achievement to win College ‘Teacher of the Year’ across all barbering and hairdressing sectors, so you deserve my shout out Alison!
Dates for your Diary 13th-15th October: Salon International 21st-22nd October: HJ Live 10th November: Man Utd v Man City
Relentless Even the best can get better! This is a great book that teaches you techniques on how to keep going when everyone else gives up and to thrive under pressure. Highly recommend. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 33
Turn a haircut into a harmony
Turn it up! Discover how TheMusicLicence is helping businesses find their mojo.
0800 0720 808 Quote ‘Modern Barber’
pplprs.co.uk/themusiclicence
S P E C I A L F E AT U R E
A BRAND BUILT BY BARBERS FOR BARBERS As ‘MR.’ opens its 26th shop, launches its first academy and is set to release a professional barber product range later this month, we thought it was a good time for MB to catch up with co-founders Karl Foster and Sam Prior and find out the whole story.
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arl and Sam have worked together for over 25 years, both starting as Saturday boys and sweeper uppers, they have literally done every role in the barbershop. In 1995 Karl opened his first shop in Saffron Walden called ‘Men’s Room’ and took Sam on as a junior. “It was a great opportunity, I’d left school as soon as I could with only an E in English and an F in French…thank goodness I didn’t do German” jokes Sam. “It saved me though, it gave me a purpose in life, something I really enjoyed and something I could be great at.” After years of learning the trade, entering competitions and building a strong client base the pair opened their second shop in 2000. Hard work and determination saw this shop flourish and gradually the shop count rose to three. In 2014 having experienced the highs and the lows of being barbers, they decided to launch the ‘MR.’ brand. “It just seemed the right thing to do” explains Karl, “the industry was really beginning to boom and we wanted to be a bigger part of it, to help it grow in a good way.” They rebranded their three shops to ‘MR.’ and added a fourth and so a new chapter began. Their own experiences in the industry lead them to create a business 36 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
“Real barbers, delivering real training, in a real barbershop environment, it is exciting times!” Everyone wanted to work with us.” explains Karl. “Family is so important to us and we wanted to bring that into the work place, we wanted all of our barbers to feel part of something bigger, not just work in ‘another barbershop’. We have always kept it simple and lived by one formula ‘Happy Barbers + Happy Clients = Happy Barbershop’. Best of all, we wanted to have fun and the way the business is, we get to love each day.” that was all about the barbers, after all, that’s where they started out! “We had always worked on a chair rental model, we wanted to be able to attract the best barbers and send the best haircuts out of the door every time. By not being greedy with the rent, our barbers were all earning twice what their peers were in other shops, so it started to grow organically.
The business has really hit its stride with a unique franchise model, bringing momentum and fast growth. Sam says “We had friends and colleagues who loved what we were doing and wanted to be part of it, so we worked with them to open their own shops under the MR umbrella. We helped them deliver amazing shops and returns and so the franchise route
S P E C I A L F E AT U R E
was born”. Now at 26 shops and over 100 barbers, it seems there’s another new chapter beginning at ‘MR.’ with the launch of their first academy and the release of their own product range. “As the industry grows there’s been a huge shortfall in good barbers. Most college courses don’t deliver to a high enough standard and barbershops don’t want to teach juniors anymore. We decided to take the plunge and set up our own academy to literally grow our own! We were fortunate enough to partner with West Suffolk College to deliver the training to both full time and apprentice learners and now have a platform to help
Karl & Sam’s Tips on growing big business Think, long term Sweat the small stuff Build business support systems, have a back-up if they go wrong Be ‘On Brand,’ don’t deviate Recruit carefully- like attracts like Educate, motivate and reward Stay present and visible Use all brand possibilities DON’T STOP…. EVER!
develop our own barbers. Real barbers, delivering real training, in a real barbershop environment, it is exciting times!” So where next? “We just want to keep doing what we do! As long as we are having fun in this amazing industry and our barbers are able to grow and come on this journey with us, what more could we ask for! If you don’t believe us, just take a look at all the testimonials on our website!” So, how can you get involved and take your career to the next level? • Join your local MR. as a self-employed barber, and have the opportunity to earn more. Contact jobs@mrbarbers.co.uk. • If you are a barber and want to open your own shop, get in touch as MR. can help you achieve your goals. Contact info@mrbarbers.co.uk. • Even non-barbers can own a MR. franchise, several already do! Contact info@mrbarbers.co.uk. Visit www.mrbarbers.co.uk and check the testimonials to see why MR. barbers and their shop owners are continuing to thrive. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 37
CORDLESS DETAILER
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PRODUCE FASTER CUTTING RESULTS THAN STANDARD TRIMMER BLADES ENABLING SUPER CLOSE TRIMMING, OUTLINES AND ACCURATE DETAIL WORK
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Get your business running like clockwork
WHY SHOULD YOU JOIN THE NHF?
SAVE YOUR TIME AND MONEY
We ensure our members run professional and successful businesses through the benefits we offer:
•
Use our business know how, guides, training and coaching to grow your business
•
Safeguard your business with NHF discounts on insurance, music licences and many more
•
Free NHF chair renting employment contracts
agreements
•
Peace of mind with 24/7 employment advice
•
Support on tax, VAT and payroll queries
•
Protect your team with health & safety advice
•
Keep up to date on legislation changes
GET YOUR VOICE HEARD •
Fighting for you on key industry issues
or
To find out why it pays to join the NHF Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: enquiries@nhf.info www.nhf.info/benefits
Join before 31 December and quote MB25 to get £25 off your membership fee.
TO P T I PS
TOP TIPS ON E-MARKETING If you are reaching out to customers on email or text then you need to make sure that you are GDPR compliant, it’s the law. GDPR (General Data Protection Regulations) means ensuring that data is securely protected, that recipients are happy to receive your message and that there is a way to opt out at any time. Once that box is ticked…what are the best ways to use e-marketing?
TOP REASONS TO CHOOSE ONLINE BOOKING Walk-in devotees could be missing out. If you’re on the fence when it comes to online bookings then consider these points from Nicola Soanes at Salon Tracker… • Online booking allows your clients to have access to book appointments at your shop 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
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An attentiongrabbing subject line followed by a brief and easy-to-read message written in your own distinctive voice and style will help to build your barbershop brand and inspire loyalty among your clients.
Make sure you have something of genuine value or interest to say, for example, new members of staff, new services or treatments and special offers.
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Don’t overdo it. If you send too many messages, your clients may opt out.
Plan ahead to make sure you don’t miss any e-marketing opportunities relating to the seasons and special days throughout the year.
Make sure your message is clear about what to do next. For example, how to take advantage of a special offer or make an appointment and the date offers end.
The NHF (nhf.info) offers members rich resources on all aspects of running a business. 40 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
• Many people now use their smart phones to book appointments, which means if your shop appointments are available online your customers can book on the move from anywhere they like. • You can advertise last-minute appointments to ensure gaps are filled, improving your footfall! • Online registration allows new clients to register for your barbershop services, helping to grow your customer database. • Customers can log on to their online account and view their appointments, amend and update these themselves, which saves staff time. • Some online booking apps allow customers to view the services that they have purchased and to remind them of the services they have chosen which includes selecting personalised service packages; giving the customer a real sense that their service is shaped around them. • Some online booking apps have push-notifications, which means customers get regular reminders of their appointment booking, to reduce no-shows! A lot of software packages also have SMS reminders linked to online-bookings, so customers will receive a text message 24 hours before their appointment. Thanks salontracker.co.uk.
The elite grooming range you deserve
/bluebeardstv
Please contact us on: trade@bluebeards-revenge.co.uk OR +44 (0) 1752 898191
Find out how more at shortcuts.co.uk/barber
“We wanted a community feel. The ability to book appointments, pay and re-book using the app keeps the flow of people coming so we can build our community” — Inky Steve Jersey Street Social Club
Inky Steve Ad Lanscape 190x125.indd 1
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