ModernBarber
STOREFRONT GUIDE BRANDS TO BUY . SERVICES TO SHOP . STUFF TO SEE. July - Sept 2016
SHOP INSIDER
Daniel Rymer, Bristol
It’s all
ABOUT ME Bigging up your own brand
W
elcome. Our digital buddy guide for July to September gives you a ‘one stop’ look at this quarter’s supporting brands and businesses plus relevant editorial to inspire you. You can click thru to online content and even shop direct from the page where you see a shopping cart icon. We are passionate about putting print in the hands of the UK’s barbers so for the full Modern Barber experience you can subscribe online at modernbarber.co.uk/ subscribe or purchase single print issues at barberblades.co.uk.
Rachel Gould
Roll of
HONOUR Your industry title wouldn’t happen without the advertising support of the brands and companies below – they know just how valuable you are! American Crew. Andis. British Barbers’ Association. Coolblades. Chaps Male Grooming, Denman Professional. Fine Fettle Grooming. Fudge Hair. Kent Brushes. London School of Barbering. MITCH by Paul Mitchell . Moda. Mike Taylor Education. M K Upholstery, MR Barbers. National Hairdressers’ Federation. Refreshening Wipes. REM-MEN. Barber Equipment Centre. Shortcuts. Takara Belmont. The Bluebeards Revenge. Wahl UK
Editor
ModernBarber Editor and publisher: Rachel Gould rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Design and Production: Annie Bartley design@anniebartley.co.uk Advertising: Kelly Hindley kelly@modernbarber.co.uk Cover Credits: Shortcuts
Find us online: modernbarber.co.uk
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Call on: 01295 533755. For all online and print advertising enquiries, please contact rachel@modernbarber.co.uk
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Modern Barber Ltd is registered in the UK. Registration number: 06084337. VAT number: 178993237 Registered and correspondence address: Three Acre Barn, Thorpe Road, Upper Wardington, Oxon OX17 1SP. Subscriptions can be securely purchased through modernbarber.co.uk/subscribe
WHAT’S INSIDE
© Modern Barber Magazine accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no reponsibility can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publishers.
06 News: What to see and what to do this quarter 14 It’s all about me! Own branding. 16 Shop Insider: Akin Barbershop, Dubai. 22 S torefront: Stuff you need and gear you want. 26 The 10 Minute Chat: on board with David Raccuglia. 28 Girl on top: Sandra Perović and her American Crew All Star win. 32 H ow to: make Bourbon BBQ sauce, help with mental illhealth, hit high-end barbering.
MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE / 3
SPECIAL EDITION
ELVIS
™
PRODUCTS AVAILABLE NOW
@AMERICANCREW.COM ®
FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com IRELAND: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com ELVIS™ AND ELVIS PRESLEY™ ARE TRADEMARKS OF ABG EPE IP LLC RIGHTS OF PUBLICITY AND PERSONA RIGHTS: ELVIS PRESLEY ENTERPRISES, LLC © 2016 ABG EPE IP LLC ELVIS.COM
NEWS
“
“Instead of making clients wait, the majority of our barbers now offer clients the option of pre-booking at an additional cost, such as £2, to secure a slot with their favourite barber
“
TOP FLIGHT BARBERS LAND EXTRA REVENUE Tech-savvy barbers have seen bums on seats numbers take off since adopting a key strategy borrowed from airlines.
F
igures released by Shortcuts (shortcuts.co.uk) show that more barbers are offering priority booking at a premium, allowing clients to secure their place in the chair for a small extra payment and
their clients are loving it – online booking rates for two of Shortcuts’ top barbers jumped by more than 30% in the first three months of 2016. “Instead of making clients wait, the majority of our barbers now offer clients the option of
Clients now have the option of waiting, knowing the time of their appointment thanks to the Shortcuts Walk-in, Check-in and Wait Board features, or booking in advance for a small fee.
pre-booking at an additional cost, such as £2, to secure a slot with their favourite barber,” says Trevor Jennings, Managing Director of Shortcuts. “It is a classic example of how innovative barbers are driving forward a new approach to men’s services.” The introduction of Shortcuts priority booking allows barbers to blend walkin appointment with booking without aggravating their clients.
L’Oréal Professionnel MEN’S IMAGE AWARD 2016
“Nearly all of our barbers have started off on our Walk-in service, which comes with our Wait Board indicating wait times for appointments, and the Checkin option, which allows clients to walk in, book a slot and then leave, rather than hang around waiting for an appointment,” adds Trevor. “However, almost 100% of our barber partners have quickly moved on to bookings when they realise just how lucrative it is.”
JAPANESE CLIPPERS COME TO THE UK
D
enman Professional (denmanpro.com) is now the exclusive distributor of Panasonic professional clippers. The Japanese brand of pro clipper has never been available for distribution in the UK before and Denman is excited about the clippers capabilities.
G
etting to the finals of the LCT is a six month journey which ended in celebration on Monday 13th June at a ritzy awards dinner at the O2 Intercontinental Hotel hosted by Nick Grimshaw. One of the judges throughout the journey was barber, Sheriff
6 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
Mehmet of Envy Barbers (@ envybarbers) and finalists included Michael Damiano (@imagebarber) of Image Barber in Bedford. The ultimate winner of the category was Tracey Gallagher of Urban Retreat with a scissor cut vintage style. Congrats Tracey! @lorealprouk
L TO R: JASON MILLER, MODEL, TRACEY GALLAGHER, ANDREW BARTON, NICK GRIMSHAW
Marketing Manager Jonathan King says “The patented technology on offer means that the smart linear motor detects the volume of hair being cut and even if it is wet or dry, the motor then automatically adjusts power to provide a constant cutting action for the barber. The shape of the blade is also different, it has a 45% angle which means a larger cutting surface that catches the hair and cuts it without letting any hair escape.”
NEWS PHOTOGRAPHY: GARETH CLARK WINNER SADIK KHALIFA AND HIS FATHER
“
After a five month round of regional heats, Sadik Khalifa, owner of Style Hair Arts in Nuneaton, Warwickshire took the title (and the belt) of Britain’s Best Wet Shaving Barber 2016.
B
ENVER YESHIBULUT
8 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
ritain’s Best Shave Competition is run in association with the Bluebeards Revenge (@thebluebeards) and the British Barbers’ Association (@ britishbarbers) and the final took place at BarberUK at the NEC last May. Sadik moved to the UK from a poor village in India in 2007 and has been barbering since he was 10 years old. His skills impressed judges Gary Machin, Alan Jones and Gareth Clark and he battled it out against the finalists, Elvis Gjokaj, Shakar Bakani and Lisa Schwartz in the popular BBA competition boxing ring. Sadik was joined by his father Kadirbhai Khalifa who flew from his home in Gujurat to support his son. Sadik said “I’ve watched
the competition from afar for the past two years and finally decided to give it a shot. I keep having to pinch myself to remind myself that it’s not a dream! This has been a life-changing experience for me and I want to build on my victory and help to raise the profile of British barbering still further.”
I’ve watched the competition from afar for the past two years and finally decided to give it a shot. I keep having to pinch myself to remind myself that it’s not a dream! This has been a life-changing experience for me and I want to build on my victory and help to raise the profile of British barbering still further.
“
SADIK WINS BRITAIN’S BEST SHAVE
OTHER WINS AT THE BRITISH BARBERS’ ASSOCIATION COMPETITION FINALS INCLUDED: Enver Yeshibulut of Kings Barbers Male Grooming in Deal (pictured) for BBA Barber of the Year sponsored by Supermax. Kade Burgess of Image Barber in Bedford for BBA Patterns Master of the Year sponsored by Andis. Calderdale College for BBA Student College of the Year sponsored by Denman.
Kent’s Beard Brush, possibly the first handmade brush to highlight and amplify the incredibleness of your breathtaking beard. kentbrushes.com/beard • +44 (0)1442 232623 • beard@kentbrushes.com
Image is Everything ‌and it doesn’t have to cost the earth.
Call 01455 660 024 or visit www.salonequipmentcentre.co.uk We buy and part exchange barber furniture. Nationwide delivery available. Visit our showroom at Leicester Road, Lutterworth, LE17 4HF
BEC A division of SEC
SPECIAL FEATURE HAIR: LONDON SCHOOL OF BARBERING ART TEAM. PHOTO: BRIAN DOHERTY MODEL: GREG CORNTHWAITE
generation
SHAPER It’s 25 years since Fudge Professional launched Shaper and trusted styling products are something to celebrate.
Shaper was literally shaped around the diverse needs of a new generation of professionals and customers that wanted to express their individuality. Shaper is a strong hold, semi matte texturising crème designed
“
One of the things I love about Fudge is the blend’able formulas. I can blend Shaper with Fudge Matte Hed or Salt Spray to really play around with texture. Shaper is just as happy styling a slick quiff as it is for more messy styles. I trust it!
“
T
he true heroes are the ones that make a difference time after time and for Fudge Shaper, that time is 25 years of heroic styling performance. Fudge Professional has a track record of creating innovative and adaptable products that deliver just what barbers and stylists need and by listening to the professionals and clients that use it, the company makes sure their formulas stay on point, even when that means staying the same. Alex Shore of Close Male Grooming in Manchester and Liverpool says “Shaper is a true all round styling product and the thing I love about it is that the performance hasn’t changed. Often product companies fiddle with formulas and suddenly it’s not doing what it used to. Apart from packaging updates, what’s in the pot is a tried and tested product that I use every day.”
to thicken, control, mould and define the hair. The range of looks that Shaper can help achieve means it adds real muscle to any barbershop’s styling power. Alex has been a barber for 15 years and has five shops. He’s always been a Fudge devotee and now all of the 20 barbers that work for him are too. “I first picked up a Fudge product in Australia before it even made it to the UK and I was hooked from the start. One of the things I love about Fudge is the blend’able formulas.
THE
TECH SPEC • A blend of natural waxes delivers texture and definition • Strong hold and semi matte finish • Fudge No.1 selling product! • Water soluble, shampoos out easily • Special film formers provide anti-humidity properties to maintain style longer • Hydrolised Wheat Protein strengthens and improves the condition of the hair while styling • Caramel fragrance • Hold factor 10 • RRP £12.95 To buy Fudge Professional for your barber shop, visit fudgeprofessional.com or call 020 7845 6333 for your nearest distributor. I can blend Shaper with Fudge Matte Hed or Salt Spray to really play around with texture. Shaper is just as happy styling a slick quiff as it is for more messy styles. I trust it!” explains Alex. MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE / 11
The right person for the job is technically gifted and proficient in cutting, fading, styling and finishing. No background in education or qualifications are required. Take the next step in your career and join a company that is revolutionising the standards in men’s hair education. We work with numerous product partners, fashion brands and barbershops, and we also perform on stages across the UK.
12 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
R
NH ME F M
BE
WHY YOU SHOULD BECOME AN
BECOME A MEMBER IN 2016
WE HELP MAKE SURE YOUR BUSINESS IS WATERTIGHT • Free employment law advice around the clock • Free employment contracts, apprenticeship and chair renting agreements • NHF pension scheme • Free commercial advice for advice on payroll, tax, VAT, chair renting charges and health and safety • Updates on legislation changes
WE HELP YOU GROW YOUR BUSINESS • Business training courses • Free business advice guides • Competitions and demonstrations
WE HELP YOU GET YOUR VOICE HEARD • Campaigning - we fight for you on key issues that affect our industry
WE SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY • We are your one stop shop for your businesses needs • Discounts on insurance, music licences plus many more To find out why it pays to join the NHF Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: enquiries@nhf.info
www.nhf.info/why
FEATURE
It’s all
ABOUT ME! MR Barbers (@mr_barbers) gets branding in a big way, it’s what they do. The licensed barbershop group gives access to investors and barbers seeking a ‘turnkey’ business with loads of support and an established brand. What better way to make sure the MR brand lives beyond the shop door than with a branded condom. ‘Something for the weekend Sir?’
Those little added extras make a difference and when they are a personal gift from your barber it gets remembered too. Your shop can get individual branded wipes to let your customers freshen up. Refreshening (refreshening.co.uk) has been creating bespoke barber wipes for the last four years and business is booming, in fact the 14 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
THE WIPES
THE CONDOM
number of professional wipes they supply has doubled every year. Brand equity has value that when done right, can get its very own line on the business balance sheet as an asset. You might not be there yet but even Jack Daniels had to start somewhere!
THE WETLINE Alex Walker of Aces Barbershop (aceshair.co.uk) in Northampton does a roaring trade in his very own Aces styling products. It’s part of his retail portfolio and he sells Clay, Matt Wax, Paste and Putty, all at a nice round tenner a pop. Alex says “I opened three years ago but started selling my own products about a year ago. I found a company called High Energy that has great products ready to go. It took all the stress and cost out of starting from scratch and it gets my name out there. The customers really like it and about 30% of them go away with retail.” Alex charges up to £22 for a 30-45 minute appointment and feels his High Energy (highenergy.co.uk) personalised products are a great extension of his brand. GentCo in Hornchurch (@ gentcobarbers) is another
“
It’s unique to the shop and they are great products that I believe in, so it’s easy to talk to clients about them as part of their service.
“
The shop is your stage and your brand is a major player. Why not use it? You sweated over the logo and probably paid cash money for the design. Your brand is an expression of you and all you believe in, so make it work as hard as you do. Here’s just some of the ways that you can make it all about you.
barbershop that’s stocking their own. Owner Dave Langley offers traditional barber services in a contemporary and quality environment and has a broad range of branded GentCo formulas that include everything from Salt Spray to beard oil at prices from £4.95. He says “It’s unique to the shop and they are great products that I believe in, so it’s easy to talk to clients about them as part of their service. It gives us another way to push the name and since launch last February they’ve been selling really well.”
THE CHAIR A great barber chair can be a beautiful thing so why not finish it off with yet another opportunity to endorse your own brand. Rem-men (rem. co.uk) offers a full on embroidered logo option to most of their barber chairs and upholstered goods. Your customers won’t ever be able to forget where they are!
THE
PROFESSIONALS’
CHOICE
bluebeards-revenge.co.uk
the bluebeards revenge
T: 01752 898191
@thebluebeards
thebluebeards
D TM
MAKING BAD GUYS LOOK GOOD SINCE 2010
IN CINEMAS AUGUST 5 Plymouth, Bretonside Bus Station
win
A private SCREENING FOR YOU AND YOUR SQUAD PLUS HUNDREDS OF OTHER BAD ASS PRIZES FIND OUT MORE & ENTER OUR SUICIDE SQUAD PRIZE DRAW AT
bluebeards-revenge.co.uk/suicidesquad
THE
PROFESSIONALS’
CHOICE
bluebeards-revenge.co.uk
T: 01752 898191
the bluebeards revenge
@thebluebeards
thebluebeards
MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE / 15
FEATURE
Barbershops are hang outs, hubs and of course the best hair destinations…so take a peek inside this one.
insider SHOP
16 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
FEATURE PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEL BURNETT
SHOP: DANIEL RYMER MALE GROOMING, 27 ST. STEPHEN’S STREET, BRISTOL, BS1 1JR OWNERS: Daniel Rymer SOCIAL MEDIA: Twitter and Insta @danielrymerhair/FB Daniel Rymer Hair/ web danielrymerhair.com OPENED: 2nd November 2015 CHAIRS: 3 REM’s in the main shop plus 1 in the private room. SIZE: Compact! TEAM: Daniel plus two other barbers. LOCATION: Centre of business district in the Old City, neighbouring cobbled streets and the shopping arcade. The location inspired Daniel’s ‘speakeasy’ bar as Bristol has a culture of secret bars. TIMEFRAME: 10 weeks. BUDGET: £20k. Daniel did a lot of the work himself with support from friends and family. The décor is gunmetal grey and gold with oak flooring and the budget stretched to cover the opulent basement bar. BRIEF: Luxurious, premium and different enough to get talked about. Daniel created a mood board for his ideas and hit all of them - from the self-service bar with optics and fridge to the well planned space that creates a sociable atmosphere. WHAT’S UNIQUE: The private room that allows the shop to accommodate customers that prefer privacy or those that want a relaxing shave experience. ADDED EXTRAS: Daniel offers customers a 30 minute quick fix lunchtime appointment and has teamed up with two local coffee shops so that customers can order from the lunch menu and have their order waiting for them in the shop. MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE / 17
Featuring Angus Mitchell
introducing
MITCH MATTERIAL ®
TM
STRONG. MODERN. MATTE. Powerful styling clay bulks up texture with a dry, ultra-matte finish Thickening ingredients and strong fixatives grip hair and lock it in place Natural clay creates a matte feel and eliminates shine Makes hair look and feel thicker for modern, textured looks.
MODERN MANPOWER
TRULY PROFESSIONAL
CRUELTY FREE
To discover what a trusted brand like MITCH® could do for your barbering business, call the team on 0845 659 0011 Find us on
and
at Paul Mitchell UK
#MITCHTHEMAN
paul-mitchell.co.uk/MITCH
STYLE ISN’T BORN.
IT’S GROOMED. MAXIMUM GROOMING POWER FOR THE MODERN MAN. Concentrated, high-performance products Innovative styling options and a complete range of finishes from matte to high shine Colour-coded packaging for easy hold factor selection.
Find us on
and
at Paul Mitchell UK
MODERN MANPOWER
#MITCHTHEMAN
TRULY PROFESSIONAL
paul-mitchell.co.uk/MITCH
CRUELTY FREE
To discover what a trusted brand like MITCHÂŽ could do for your barbering business, call the team on 0845 659 0011
PRODUCTS FAB FRICTION TONICS Refined spice blend with essential extracts. Leaves hair smooth and manageable with light hold. 100ml. Price: £4.99. fabhairandbeauty.com
ARTERO MYSTERY SCISSOR Razor blade edge, skull detailing on the handle, Japanese stainless steel, ergonomic design, soft ball-bearing system, perfect for cutting and slicing. Available in 6”/7”/8”. Price from: £154 inc VAT. cbcsalonsupplies.co.uk
Hi-tech X-Taper blade, cord/cordless cutting, linear motor for constant power, Japanese tempered blades, 50 minute run time. Price: £175 ex VAT for the clipper/£70 ex VAT for the trimmer. denmanpro.com
NEW
DAPPER DAN ‘BARBERSHOP CLASSIC’ SHAVE RANGE Premium, shave cream and aftershave balm from the makers of popular brand Dapper Dan. Price: £12.50. dapperdanuk.com, stockist enquiries trade@ dapperdanuk.com
PANASONIC PROFESSIONAL CLIPPERS AND TRIMMERS
NEW
ANDIS USPRO CORDLESS CLIPPER LI Cordless clipper, powerful rotary motor, lasting lithium-ion battery, ultimate manoeuvrability, versatility and precision for every cut. Price: £69.99 exc VAT. andis.com
FUDGE HAIR SHAPER Strong hold, semi matte, water soluble, strengthens hair and improves condition while styling. Price: £12.95. alanhoward.co.uk
NEW
store FRONT NEW
BLUEBEARDS PROFESSIONAL RANGE Professional sized bottles for Classic and Cuban blend Beard Oils, Pre-Shave Oil, Shampoo and Conditioner in big manly sizes for barbershop use. Call for price. bluebeards-revenge.co.uk 22 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
Copacetic from Savills Barbers Formulated by Savills Barbers, made in Britain. Sulphate, paraben and cruelty-free. Available in Pomade, Cream, Clay and Paste. Price from: £15 for 150ml. copacetic-gent.com. Trade enquiries welcome.
CLUBMAN PINAUD RANGE Heritage brand founded in 1810 with a range of hair product, lotions, cologne’s, tonics, skin and facial hair care on offer. Price from: £5. barberblades.co.uk
PRODUCTS
Vines Vintage Beard Balm
NEW
NEW
WAHL LEGEND 5 STAR CLIPPER
WAHL MAGICCLIP 5 STAR CORDLESS CLIPPER
Special ‘crunch’ blade technology for smooth cutting. Increased cutting length and control. Powerful motor, 8 attachments. Price: £101.99 inc VAT. coolblades.co.uk
Stagger tooth blade for optimal blending, 90 minute run time. Gamechanger. Lightweight 8 attachments. Price: £101.99 inc VAT. coolblades.co.uk Light texture, medium hold luxury beard balm enriched with Shea butter and advocado oil to moisturise and hydrate. 125ml. Price: £11.20. vines-vintage.com
American Crew Limited Edition Fiber
NEW
CLEAN CUT® MITCH BY PAUL MITCHELL Semi-matte styling cream. Forms clean, fuss free looks with medium pliable hold to shape and reshape with lasting control. 85g. Price: £14.95. paul-mitchell.co.uk
JASON SHANKEY EXFOLIATING SCRUB Cleanses, exfoliates and refreshes to oxygenate skin and remove dirt and dead cells. Perfect before shaving. 100ml. Price: £4.99. salon-services.com
JOHNNY’S CHOP SHOP TRIGGER HAPPY TEXTURISING SPRAY Provides a rough and ready surfer look with gritty texture and a touch of volume. Paraben free and includes conditioning pro vitamin B. 125ml. Price £6. johnnyschopshop.co.uk
A high-hold, low shine product that helps thicken, texturise and add fullness. Ideal for texture with control on shorter lengths. Limited Edition Elvis packaging. Price: £14.50. Call 0207 391 7440 for nearest distributor.
REFRESHENING BARBER WIPES Ideal for removing loose hair trimmings. Professional barber wipes cool, cleanse and refresh customers after every cut. Price: less than 6p each. Refreshening.co.uk
ANTI-FATIGUE BARBER MAT Specifically developed to help in the relief of back pain, aching knees, tired legs and sore feet. Ahhh that’s better! H:2cm W:123cm D:138cm. Price: £103 ex VAT. salonequipmentcentre.co.uk
MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE / 23
PRODUCTS
Professional and proud!
Becoming a registered barber makes you a member of the ONLY government recognised statutory professional body for the barbering industry. In an unregulated profession it’s your chance to show your customers, staff and competition that you are professional and proud. For £3.50 a month you get:
You need:
• Official recognition under the law and a Certificate underwritten by the law, by an Act of Parliament that shows you are a ‘State Registered Barber’.
OR to claim Grandfather rights with proof of at least six years’ experience.
NVQ Level 2 or equivalent plus two years’ experience.
• The right to use the initials SRB after your name. • The right to apply for the Master Craftsman Diploma. Only State Registered Barbers can be Master Craftsmen. • Credentials you will find useful - or may need - if seeking work in Europe and America. • Access to free advice on the SRB dedicated phone line. • Access to possibly the cheapest insurance cover available. • Every issue of the exclusive Council magazine. • Access to mirror stickers, window clings and a photo ID SRB card. 24 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
Call 020 8760 7010 email ellie@haircouncil.org.uk visit www.haircouncil.org.uk ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Photographer: Kale Friesen Hair by: Mike Taylor of Mike Taylor Education
SOCIAL
David Raccuglia trained as a barber and worked as a hair professional before risking it all on a crazy new idea – haircare created for men. These days it’s quite the thing and it’s called American Crew, you might have heard of it! MB caught a little transatlantic phone time with David to find out more…
THE 10
minute CHAT: David Raccuglia 26 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
SOCIAL
“
I think the barber community is actually leading fashion. Look at the growth of the beard. It won’t ever go away for the men that look better with one. No man is going to say ‘hey beards are out and even though I look less handsome without one, I’m shaving!’
MB: Do you think barbers should be thinking about fashion trends? DR: Not necessarily. I think the barber community is actually leading fashion. Look at the growth of the beard. It won’t ever go away for the men that look better with one. No man is going to say ‘hey beards are out and even though I look less handsome without one, I’m shaving!’ Barbers are influencers and the work they do with their clients leads style.
“
MB: What projects are exciting you right now? DR: Men’s grooming is experiencing extreme growth and I’m interested in hair getting longer, texture changing. It’s all been very controlled, keeping hair in place and now we want to create product that will keep it out of place. I spent time teaching for Jingles International in London in the 80’s and the men’s designer Paul Smith was just getting started. He took all these classic suits and gave them a twist – stripes, floral. It was inspirational. Crew owes a lot to that, taking tradition and mixing it up. That’s always exciting.
MB: American Crew is 22 and the men’s grooming category didn’t actually exist before that. What does it take to be a business innovator? DR: Passion. I travelled a lot to Japan as an educator with my job. I had previously used products for African American hair but I could never get it out and I was looking for a pomade that I could use and work with. I picked up a product called Cool Grease in Japan with hold and
shine that washed out. When I got back to America I found a lab in Minneoapolis and just kept talking at them. In the end they took a chance on me and it grew and became the original range of eight products. I was just a kid and it was 1994 but the barbershop was always central to the brand. Classic barbering is the heart of what we do. So… passion, constantly pushing forward and a lot of very hard work is what it takes.
MB: How does a brand or business stay relevant? DR: It’s not easy. You have to stay true, never abandon your roots and never compromise on quality BUT you must adapt. Brands with longevity need to be consistent, taking their customers with them. Listening to them. Remember why you are doing it. I want my products to be enjoyed, I want them to change the way customers groom. I want barbers and stylists to be proud to have Crew in the shop and use it. That connection between customer, barber and brand keeps us relevant. MB: As a hair professional what advice would you give to young barbers? DR: Do it all, broaden your skills. Be ready. Be a craftsmen with both your hands and your heart and work at your craft always. It’s a great way to make a living, so keep feeding your passion. MB: As a photographer, what impact do you want to make with the images you create? DR: Photography is my new hair. I’ve taken the most men’s hair pictures on the planet. I’ve done some great projects with some incredible people. I’m inspired by the work of William Claxton. I like to capture the struggle in my portrait work. Getting the right image is a bit like boxing…it’s an exchange. MB: What impact do you feel social media has made on the men’s grooming market? DR: Massive. As a brand it gives us a global community and allows us to speak with one voice. It allows men’s grooming to filter into men’s daily lives. It inspires people and that’s important. MB: American Crew is a global business…do you still sweat the small stuff? DR: Absolutely. It’s the small details that make something big. You need to be brought to life sweating the small stuff because it keeps you humble and being humble is necessary to being good. #groomliketheking
MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE / 27
SOCIAL
Girl
PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID RACCUGLIA
ON TOP SANDRA PEROVI RECEIVING HER AWARD.
Female barbers are stepping up to the competition plate and this one knocked it outta the park!
S
andra Perović of Bonds Barbershop in Bournemouth is on top of the world! She beat fourteen national winners of the American Crew All Star Challenge to take the title. As a finalist she was invited to a five day long trip to Paris where nearly 4500 international stylists gathered for the Global Conference. Sandra says “Our final look was created over two days and shot by American Crew founder David Raccuglia. Each model was allocated a number and then we each pulled a number out of a hat. The guy I got had a rugged
look but the most difficult hair. It was like a day in the shop, you just had to deal with it! When it got to shooting the final image David put us at ease, he was helpful but said ‘hey it’s your shoot, do whatever you want’.” By the time the winner was announced in front of all 4500 attendees during a glitzy dinner ceremony, Sandra was feeling relieved that the moment had arrived without ever expecting her own name to be announced. “At only 22 I was shocked, it felt like a dream.” Sandra won a cash prize, education, promotion and a handsome trophy. Sandra’s advice for anyone entering competitions?
“Yes enter! Keep putting your work out there. Research previous winners. Make sure you follow the competition criteria and above all make it your own.” To enter the americancrew.com/ allstarchallenge next year you need a b/w shot of your model on a plain white background, one face on, one profile both shot to chest level. You will need to prepare a brief explanation of the inspiration behind the look and credit the products used to achieve it. #itcouldbeyou #nextyear. Share the barberlove and say congrats to Sandra Perović (@sandra_perovic).
PHOTOGRAPHY: NIKO-LUX
28 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
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0161 972 4900 shortcuts.co.uk/barber MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE / 29
30 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
E M P E R O R Unconventionally British
The Emperor Barbers Chair is designed and manufactured in Britain by REM. With 3 Year Warranty. Part of the REM Barbers Collection. sales@rem.co.uk
www.rem.co.uk
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TIPS
Top TIPS
Ingredients ½ large white onion very finely chopped 4 cloves of garlic crushed 200ml of Kentucky bourbon 250ml of ketchup 125 grams of dark brown sugar 80ml of cider vinegar 60ml of Worcestershire sauce A dash of hot pepper sauce 2 generous tablespoons of tomato paste 1 tablespoon of smoked paprika (adjust to taste) 2 teaspoons of salt A couple of twists of ground black pepper
HOW TO MAKE BOURBON BBQ SAUCE… It’s BBQ season! Go bespoke on the sauce and swap out your mass produced brand with chemical nasties for a delicious alternative that’s got a nice kick of bourbon.
I
n a non-stick frying pan simmer the onion, garlic and whiskey together for 5-10 minutes until the onion is soft and nearly clear. Mix in all the other ingredients and bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes. For a totally smooth sauce strain out the onion and garlic, leave to cool and then chill overnight for the best flavour. Smother your BBQ goodies before they hit the grill. Indulge responsibly!
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LOOK FOR WARNING SIGNS IN COLLEAGUES AND EMPLOYEES INCLUDING: • Changes in behaviour or mood or how they interact • Changes in work productivity, motivation levels and focus • Struggling to make decisions, get organised and find solutions to problems • Appearing tired, anxious or withdrawn and losing interest in activities and tasks they previously enjoyed • Changes in eating habits, appetite and increased smoking or drinking
HOW TO HELP WHEN AN EMPLOYEE IS STRUGGLING WITH MENTAL ILL-HEALTH… Mental Illness including stress, anxiety and depression is a growing problem in the workplace and employers often find it difficult to manage.
T
he National Hairdressers’ Federation (nhf.info) is sharing info with mental health charity Mind (mind.org.uk) with their
members and offers a free advice line for support and questions. So, how can you tell if someone is struggling with mental health and what can employers do to help?
HOW TO START THAT ‘DIFFICULT’ CONVERSATION WHEN PROBLEMS ARISE: • Choose somewhere quiet where the person feels comfortable, perhaps outside the immediate workplace environment. • Encourage them to talk through non-judgemental questions and let them explain how they are feeling. If they’re not ready to talk, reassure them that you’ll be there to support them when they’re ready. • Be honest and raise specific, clear concerns about things like peformance in the context of
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Never MISS AN ISSUE! Modern Barber Modern Barber ISSUE 9 • Jan-March 2016 • £5
ISSUE 9 • Jan-March 2016 • £5
GO ON GREEN ENVIRO-FRIENDLY BUSINESS CHOICES PAGE 22
Lionheart
GO ON GREEN
GIVING CLIENTS (AND EACH OTHER) COURAGE WHERE IT’S NEEDED
ENVIRO-FRIENDLY BUSINESS CHOICES PAGE 22
PAGE 30
Lionheart GIVING CLIENTS (AND EACH OTHER) COURAGE WHERE IT’S NEEDED
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TALKIN’ ‘BOUT YOUR
Generation
BARBERING’S IN THE BLOOD
TALKIN’ ‘BOUT YOUR
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BARBERING’S IN THE BLOOD
PAGE 32
ModernBarber
PAGE 32
Modern Barber
Find the brands that support your industry, along with relevant info and articles with live click thru’s to shop for products, furniture and services. Issuu.com/modernbarbermagazine
ISSUE 5 • Jan-Mar 2015 • £5
Reach the Readers
ISSUE 10. April - June 2016 / £5
THE LONG GAME
For advertising opportunities email STAY rachel@modernbarber.co.uk or kelly@modernbarber.co.uk. CONNECTED Prices start at £425 ex VAT and Email rachel@modernbarber.co.uk there are only four Twitter/Insta @modernbarbermag opportunities a year to FB Modern Barber Magazine advertise in print!
Skills that grow on you and your clients pages 28/30
selling
OUT YOU’RE A
CLASS APART Celebrating your creativity in business, hair and life!
Show ‘em the goods for richer returns pages 20 & 21
GO ON…
BIG YOURSELF UP! GRAB ATTENTION WITH BRANDING AND DISPLAY PAGES 24 & 30
Focus on Fades THE PITCH FOR PERFECTION BARBER SHOPS PAGE 18
ROCKING THE REGION
Saf ehands
STEP INSIDE FOUR NORTHERN IRISH BARBER SHOPS PAGE 20
MB5_OFC - Cover.indd 1
15/12/2014 12:14
MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE / 33
TIPS KEN WEST how you, as their employer, can help or support them. •E nsure the discussion is confidential. •E ncourage them to see their GP and work to develop an action plan for how you can and will help them. WAYS TO HELP: •M ore flexible hours or changing break or rota times where appropriate. •G ive them some time off if necessary, without leaving them isolated. •B e flexible around doctor’s appointments or counselling sessions. •O ffer extra training, mentoring or support which is especially valuable if the stress or anxiety is based around a performance issue or workload. •E ncourage them to seek specialist support. This could be an organisation such as Mind or another mental health charity or their local Citizens’ Advice Bureau. This can also help with debt or financial problems. Visit nhf.info/mind.org.uk/habb.org.
34 / MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE
and a skill that has to be practiced. Attention to the tiniest detail is what sets a great barber apart. Pay attention to detail. Are all towels and gowns freshly laundered for each client? Are all tools sterilized between each client? Is every area of the barbershop spotless and clean? Are all of the products you use and recommend from a professional only brand?
HOW TO HIT ON HIGH END… There’s always someone prepared to charge less, so how do you stop the slide to the bottom line?
Create a memorable experience. People buy experiences. I can get a great haircut in my local barbers for £15 so if you want to charge me £40 then the experience has to be worth £25. Think afternoon tea at the Ritz! The value is not in the cakes and sandwiches, it’s in the whole experience.
en West is a hair business consultant and works with Paul Mitchell’s professional customers, he’s supporting shops that want to offer something premium and shares his five point process to high end barbering:
same. Many consumers always go for the higher cost option. They want to feel special, important, valued and pampered and they are prepared and happy, to pay more for the privilege. In fact, if a higher cost option is not available they often look elsewhere.
Look and behave professionally. Does every member of you barbering team have their own business cards to promote themselves? Most high end retailers will have their teams in a dress code or uniform to ensure they all look professional. It ‘speaks’ high end.
Understand what people buy. Price and value are absolutely not the
Train to the max. Great scissor-overcomb and clipper work is an art form
Visit 365.com/paul-mitchell.co.uk/ our-products/mitch/
K
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