ModernBarber
STOREFRONT GUIDE Brands to buy . Services to shop . Stuff to see. APRIL - JUNE 2018
BARBER BARBER Talking fearless barber training
CROWN IN GLORY Barbers in defence of the crown
Contents Issue 18 | April - June 2018
F
NEWSROOM
ind out who has fiinalised for the MOBAA’s - Modern Barber Awards in each of our nine categories. The final takes place in Soho on May 13th. Come and network, some and support your friends, come and celebrate but make sure you come....tickets are available on Eventbrite, just search Modern Barber or MOBAA’s. Check our the slender slice of editorial selected from the April to June print issue of Modern Barber magazine; including our focus on every client’s crowning glory and a two page excerpt from Tom Chapman’s first book - The Barber Boom, available on Amazon. Read our opinion piece from Sheriff Mehmet of Envy Barbers and Mike Taylor of Mike Taylor Education on the shabby practice of poaching staff. Find out what’s happening at Wahl HQ with Simon Shaw’s regular column. Shop straight from the page with stuff you need and gear you want with our two page Storefront shopping spread. We hope you enjoy this quarterly round up and don’t forget that you can subscribe online at modernbarber. co.uk/subscribe for the full print experience.
Rachel Gould Editor
06 Time to celebrate!: MOBAA’s – The Modern Barber Awards finalists announced.
FEATURES 10 Crown in glory: barbers in defence of the crown. 16 The Barber Boom: exclusive excerpt from Tom Chapman’s book. 18 Beware of poachers: Sheriff Mehmet and Mike Taylor shame the practice of poaching.
SHOPPING 24 Storefront: Stuff you need and gear you want.
SOCIAL 28 The Shaw Thing: home of Simon Shaw’s regular column. 32 Driving force: Wayne Anthony and his custom rat rod.
TOP TIPS 38 How to…recruit apprentices and be a good manager
PAGE 10
Roll Of Honour Your industry title wouldn’t happen without the advertising support of the brands and companies below – they know just how valuable you are! American Crew, Andis, Barber Barber UK, Barber Blades, Barber Connect, Barber Equipment Centre, Coolblades, Denman Professional, Edwin Jagger, Fine Fettle Grooming, Fudge, Kent Brushes, Keune, Kipa, Moda, MR Barbers, NHF, Paul Mitchell, Q Junkie, REM-MEN, Salon Services, Takara Belmont, The Bluebeards Revenge, Wahl UK Modern Barber’s circulation has been independently audited and verified by the Audit Bureau of Circulations (abcstandards.org.uk) and reaches over 10,000 independent addresses.
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BARBIERKY. PAGE 16
Editor and publisher: Rachel Gould rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Design and Production: Annie Bartley design@anniebartley.co.uk Advertising: Angela Henderson angela@modernbarber.co.uk Contributors: Simon Shaw, Paul Cowen, Jarred Liddington, Lisa Simmons, Lucy Wood, Sheriff Mehmet, Mike Taylor. Cover Credits: Photography: David Donnan @Igentics. Cover stars: Mark Lovell, Kerry Stanton and baby Gabriel!
Find us online: modernbarber.co.uk Twitter/Insta: @modernbarbermag, FB Modern Barber Magazine Call on: 01295 533755. For all online and print advertising enquiries, please contact rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Modern Barber Ltd is registered in the UK. Registration number: 06084337. VAT number: 178993237 Registered and correspondence address: Three Acre Barn, Thorpe Road, Upper Wardington, Oxon OX17 1SP. Subscriptions can be securely purchased through modernbarber.co.uk/subscribe
UK subscriptions: 1 year, 4 issues £20 post paid. Intl subscriptions: 1 year, 4 issues £40 post paid. Printed by Pensord Press Ltd. www.pensord.co.uk © Modern Barber Magazine accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no reponsibility can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publishers.
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MOBAAS
TIME TO CELEBRATE! A massive thank you to everyone that entered. Our judges had quite the challenge picking their finalists, with some categories attracting over a hundred entries. A huge well done to the finalists! Now for the nail biting wait for the final, to be held on Sunday May 13th at 100 Wardour Street, Soho from 1pm to 6pm. The ultimate winner will take home the trophy and the sponsor prizes. Don’t worry though everyone that attends gets to take home a goody bag AND get the chance to win £200 of Great Frog London jewellery vouchers. Finals tickets are on EVENTBRITE.
THE FINALISTS BEST TEAM SPONSORED BY ASTON & FINCHER
BEST TRAINING SPONSORED BY JACK DEAN Andy’s Barbers, Bicester Envy Barbers Menspire Mike Taylor Education Sid Sottung Academy
BEST CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE SPONSORED BY SALON SERVICES 18Fourteen Male Grooming Andy’s Barbers, Bicester Barbertown Worcester Envy Barbers Grizzly’s Male Hair Salon
BEST BUSINESS LEADER SPONSORED BY NHF
BEST SHOP INTERIOR SPONSORED BY TAKARA BELMONT
BEST ‘BODY OF WORK’ SPONSORED BY AMERICAN CREW
Blades Barbershop, Wakefield Bonds Barbers, Poole Braids Barbers, Leamington Spa Cut & Grind, Covent Garden The Barber Club, Brighton
Joe Cartmel Jonathan Bourne Josh Lamonaca Mercedes Paginton Tommy Court
BEST APPRENTICE SPONSORED BY WAHL
BEST PHOTOGRAPHIC ENTRY SPONSORED BY AMERICAN CREW
Gentleman & Rogues Club Hard Grind HOB Man MINT Mr Barbers
Andy’s Barbers, Bicester Company of Master Barbers Gould Barbers Headcase Barbers MR Barbers
BEST INNOVATION SPONSORED BY SHORTCUTS SOFTWARE Armour to Barber The Barber Agency The Lions Barber Collective
George Lawrence, Gershwins Isaac Wilson, Capelli’s Barbers Jayden Bayford, MR Barbers, Cambridge Josh Brodie-Browne, Vintage Avenue Michael Grazioli, Envy Barbers
Cal Newsome Chris Southern Conor Evans James Williams Thomas Curtis
BEST PHOTOGRAPHIC ENTRY SPONSORED BY AMERICAN CREW
Cal Newsome | Chris Southern \ Conor Evans \ James Williams \ Thomas Curtis 6 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
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MOBAAS
Get Your Tickets! When: Sunday May 13th 2018 1-6pm Where: The Club at 100 Wardour Street, Soho, W1 Tickets: £45pp. Just search MOBAA’s or Modern Barber on eventbrite.co.uk to buy your ticket. What’s included: Welcome drink, live music by Lili Jackson and photographic finalist’s gallery courtesy of American Crew. Finger food to soak up the drink! A handsome goody bag to take away. Just search MOBAA’s or Modern Barber on eventbrite.co.uk to buy your tickets. *T&C’s apply and you’ve got to collect your prize at the event in person to qualify.
Prizes announced! Alongside coverage in the July issue of Modern Barber and a shelf worthy trophy to show off in the shop the category winners will receive the following category prizes: 1. An all-expenses paid trip to Barcelona to join the American Crew Global Conference 3rd/4th June 2018. 2. A Lomond Barber Chair from Salon Services. 3. A personalised engraved Wahl Clipper and a spot on six Wahl Academy courses in Herne Bay. 4. A brand new iPad from Shortcuts. 5.Premium hot towel cabinet from Takara Belmont. 6. A year’s free membership to the NHF. 7. A Panasonic GP80 clipper valued at £210 from Jack Dean/Denman.
8 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
GET YOUR TICKETS FOR THE AWARDS EVENT! Come to support your friends, come to network but make sure you come!
O
ur classy but casual, shindig finals will make for one lazy Sunday afternoon in London. Come and listen to live music from emerging young talent Lili Jackson. She doesn’t just have the face of an angel, she has the voice of one too. Her easy listening blend of jazz, modern soul and more will be
accompanying celebrations for our guests. You can also come and see our gallery of finalist’s images while you enjoy a welcome drink, both courtesy of American Crew. Lastly every ticket you buy to the MOBAA’s is a raffle ticket to *WIN £200 of vouchers for The Great Frog London (thegreatfroglondon.com). All set against the backdrop of 100 Wardour Street, a stunning club at the heart of Soho.
Apollo 2 Icon, the diamond-quilted Apollo with contrast piping.
F E AT U R E
CROWN IN GLORY
MB talked to four defenders of the crown to find out why it’s a hot topic for barbers everywhere.
T
ricky crown, thinning crown, double crown – the top of the head is top of mind for barbers and their customers too. When the crown is not treated with the royal reverence it deserves, no-one’s happy! So just how hard can it be to handle the crown with care and what’s all the fuss about? MB talked to four barbers on this sensitive subject.
10 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
JORDAN STEAD
F E AT U R E
LUKE BEAUMONT
STEVIE STOCKWELL
Stevie Stockwell of Teddy Edwards Cutting Rooms says… I just avoid cutting off the crown if I can, unless the client particularly asks for it to be taken shorter. I always take that area as short as I can then I stop and show them and explain the impact of not maintaining the weight.
"I leave as much weight as I can by pushing the blend down and preserving the crown." Typically the customer will say that the area is really difficult to style and obviously you look for natural growth. A double crown can make the hair sit up or make it really flat but just moving the hair around and playing with it gives you lots of information on how it will behave. I leave as much weight as I can by pushing the blend down and preserving the crown. IG @stevie12_3.
JAKE RICHARDSON
JAKE RICHARDSON
Jordan Stead of Trend for Men says… I see cuts that have sacrificed the crown for the fade. The barber has taken it up too high to leave room for the fade and it leaves no shape in the back of the head making it rounded. A masculine cut needs a square shape. In all honesty there is no wrong way because if the client is happy then that’s the right way. I always take time to talk about the crown and show the customer the back of the head. The client typically sweeps the hair over because they can’t see what’s going on at the back. So they sweep it over and it sticks up because they are pushing it in the wrong direction. I show the client how to work with their own natural growth patterns when styling. The more hair you have to work with the better the shape you can build. IG @trendformenuk
STEVIE STOCKWELL
STEVIE STOCKWELL
Luke Beaumont of Chambers of Sheffield says…
Jake Richardson of Jays Barbers says…
Hair density, hair type and any imperfection in hair growth are what I am looking for when I’m looking for warning signs that the crown might kick up. If I have any concerns then I will dry the hair and cut it dry to make sure that I know how it will react. If I see anything other than a client looking for a short choppy look that can be mashed up a bit with product, then I preserve the length and let the crown sit in the natural fall of hair. I tailor
"I tailor every cut, I never just look at a head and force a style on it" every cut, I never just look at a head and force a style on it and I always work with the natural growth. That dictates the style really. IG @lukedbeaumont.
Crowns are important. I always focus on the shape I would like to create before I even pick up a pair of clippers. It’s not all about what the client sees when looking in the mirror face on...it’s also about maintaining the right shape and balance throughout the cut. The crown allows the clients profile and back of the head to look as natural as possible. I hate it when a new client walks in and the last barber has just simply taken clippers to the top of the head and has not taken the time to create the right shape. It may be quicker and easier.....but preserving that crown in its most natural form is crucial. I like hair to have a natural flow. I believe if the hair is in its natural position it will be better to style, better when growing out and the overall look is easier for the client to maintain day-to-day. IG @Jake_richardson91
WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 11
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SPECIAL F E AT U R E
FOUNDATION SKILLS TAKE THE FEAR OUT OF BARBERING. Acknowledging the fear and finding a solution is how Johnny Shanahan of Barber Barber UK has faced down his barbering demons and created a foundation education programme that will build any business (and his growing Empire). 14 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
SPECIAL F E AT U R E
Every barber knows or remembers that moment when a client walks in the door and they feel the fear. The barber starts to sweat, starts to think ‘please, not my chair’. It might be a certain texture of hair, a length or a style but there is some point at which the regular barber’s skills run short and the customer takes them beyond their comfort zone,” says Johnny. It wasn’t until Johnny began to build, first one shop and then a growing group of businesses that he felt the need to create a system of cutting that would protect himself and his team from that fear.
It’s a system that will arm them with a true understanding of how hair works, how technique builds style and how to tailor every look to send our customers out the door feeling and looking handsome. Johnny worked with Education Director Dale Ted Watkins to create ‘Systemik’ an eight cut system that puts fearless barbering into the hands of committed barbers to give them truly shop ready skills. Johnny says “Our barbers are trained to the highest standards of wet shaving and cutting and have extensive knowledge of what it takes to craft the perfect look for a client. Training is the bedrock of our service. A member of the Barber Barber team is part of an exclusive club of skilled hair professionals that have access to a complete system of cutting. It’s a system that will arm them with a true understanding of how hair works, how technique builds style and how to tailor every look to send our customers out the door feeling and looking handsome.” Systemik is a six month full time course that teaches a system of classic techniques that strip cutting back to its purest form, exposing a foundation of skills that, if learned correctly, will open a door to EVERY haircut. The eight styles are actually four longer styles with shorter variations
through changing the proportions and the elevation. “We start with great discipline in body position, assessment in texture and growth patterns and perfect sectioning. If you get any of those things wrong it makes cutting hair correctly very hard. We teach four styles and everything is a spin-off from those. I enjoy the safety of technique and Systemik delivers that confidence and consistency,” explains Johnny. Cuts include: Rocker – Short Texture; Classic crop – Skin Fade; Graduated Basic – Johnson Boogie; Classic Pomp – Quiff.
Systemik is available at the Barber Barber UK Academy in Manchester – opening soon. There are 20 places available with an intake of 10 every three months. There is an interview and application process. Every top scoring graduate is GUARANTEED A JOB with Barber Barber on an initial two year contract. Follow IG @barberbarberuk/@ mrjohnny_baba. Online barberbarberuk.co.uk. Email johnny@barberbarberuk.co.uk for applications and info. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 15
F E AT U R E
EXCLUSIVE! THE BARBER BOOM BY TOM CHAPMAN Tom Chapman wrote a book that includes 20 insightful interviews from international barbers plus a long view on the history of the modern barbering industry. Here’s an exclusive excerpt just for you. You can get the whole thing for £9.99 on amazon.co.uk choice I took too seriously. I completed my education and pursued other paths before returning back. When I started my journey there weren’t any barber courses to attend. I went to college to study A levels, and began to lead myself down the same path my father had walked. I hated it. I met a girl who was a hairdresser which led me back to the trade. I quit my A levels, enrolled in a Technical College and got an apprenticeship. I really struggled. Don’t get me wrong – I enjoyed the people I worked with, I just hated doing ladies hair. I nearly quit a few times but my mum and dad talked me into seeing it through.
Chapter 15: Ollie Nobbs Founder, Headcase Barbers
A
fter such an excellent trip with some talented barbers overseas, I journeyed back home to meet with the founder of one of the biggest independent barbershop chains across the UK. Ollie Nobbs has had unparalleled success with Headcase Barbers, steadily opening new locations on a national and international scale for years now. When it comes to the business of barbering, there’s no question that Ollie has it down.
Backstory
“I’ve been in the barbering industry for 19 years now, and it’s changed beyond all recognition in that time. When I was about 6 I went to a barbershop for the first time. I got my hair cut by a guy called John Gill. He became one of my heroes and was like an older brother to me whilst growing up. My experience with him made me want to be a barber. That being said, it was never a career 16 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
When I finished my apprenticeship I went on holiday with my grandparents to think about my future. I was actually considering becoming a PE teacher as I loved sport. Whilst I was on holiday John Gill, the man I had looked up to since a young age, fell off his motorbike and broke his arm. He needed a barber, I could cut (just about) so I decided to help him out. His call changed my life and came in the one week window I’d given myself to decide my future. I came back from holiday, quit my apprenticeship and went to work for him. He stood there pointing out where I needed to improve and showed me how to hold clippers properly. He basically taught me how to be a barber. This was 1999 – no one got opportunities like that. It’s comparable to trying to become a tattooist today, you have to know someone who’s willing to teach you. I had a 6 month deal. He would heal in this time and a lady was returning after maternity leave which meant there was no place left for me. This meant I had 6 months to train and find my own shop. I ended up finding a little place in Godalming, Surrey. My dad secured a loan for me and I opened Headcase. My brother Martin started a few weeks later and I trained him while we were quiet – although it didn’t stay that way for long. We built the business to focus on great customer service and clientele interaction. People loved that we were brothers, as well
as the music we played and the general atmosphere. Next I bought in my best mate Marc and another barber Mandy joined, so I looked for a second shop. I opened in Haslemere, Surrey in 2003 and launched the website – nowadays I can’t imagine opening a shop without one! No Instagram, no Facebook, no YouTube, no social media…It’s hard to imagine.
“I nearly quit a few times but my mum and dad talked me into seeing it through.” Around 2004 I became the Hair Doctor for the Good Barbers Guide, and then in 2006 I joined the WAHL artistic team, taking over their wet shaving courses after Simon Shaw was promoted to global art director. Throughout this time I continued to build on the shops’ success, and in 2008 I opened my third place in Farnham, Surrey. All the locations were really busy and we had a great team of 12 barbers. I always wanted to make the barbering industry better than it was. I wanted people to actually decide to be barbers. It bloody annoyed me that people ended up doing this amazing job because they couldn’t be hairdressers. It was such an insult. So in 2012 I decided to look at franchising. I joined with 2 other guys who understood my vision and we all bonded really well. Since 2012 we’ve gone from 3 shops to 22, spanning 3 countries (England, South Africa, and Netherlands). We have a master franchise finding stores in Ireland which will be the 4th country, and have the next 18 shops lined up. We’re also about to sign our 5th country, welcoming Sweden into the family. Our main focus is to develop the industry and make barbershops accessible to the right people, who otherwise might not be able to open their own place. Later this year we’ll be…read the rest of this interview and 19 others besides from international barbers in Tom’s book.
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F E AT U R E
BEWARE OF POACHERS!
By Lisa Simmons
Mike Taylor (@miketayloreducation) and Sheriff Mehmet (@envybarbers) says professional etiquette is at an all-time low.
T
he current buzz around barbering, the rush to open shops and the lack of qualified barbers is leading to some pretty brazen tactics when it comes to staffing a shop. Poaching is on the rise. “It’s a frustrating time for the industry. Everyone, including entrepreneurs and private investors, wants a piece of the action and they are opening shops without the necessary staff in place,” says Mike Taylor, founder of the Great British Barber Academy and Mike Taylor Education and owner of seven shops. Mike recalls chatting to several barbers at Pro Hair Live in Manchester back in March that were experiencing similar problems. “Barbershop owners can’t get out of the shop because of staffing issues after losing people,” he says. “One of my staff was approached on Facebook, while I was on the drive home from the event!” Sheriff Mehmet, owner of three Envy Barbers shops and the Envy Barbers Education Academy, has also been hit by poaching. “They phone my staff at the shop and they even come in for a haircut, not knowing that I am the boss. These guys will practically stand outside the door offering more money.” The insult is even greater when staff have been trained and nurtured inhouse, only to succumb to the highest bidder. “We train hairdressers and ground zero beginners but we are seeing a lifespan of six to 12 months before they are poached for silly 18 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
L TO R: MIKE TAYLOR AND SHERIFF MEHMET
“They phone my staff at the shop and they even come in for a haircut, not knowing that I am the boss. These guys will practically stand outside the door offering more money.” money,” says Sheriff. “They can go from £300 a week to £600 a week and some are offering as much as £900 a week! The situation might mean as a company we no longer offer our own NVQ training and instead concentrate our education efforts on teaching barbering to big education clients such as Headmasters and L’Oréal.” Mike advises staff to carefully consider whether the grass is actually greener in these situations. “If a business has to
resort to poaching for their recruitment, are they the kind of organisation that will lead you onto bigger and better things? If they’re ploughing £30,000 or £40,000 into a new shop, why would they recruit sometimes just on the basis of a few photos of someone they’ve seen online? I tell staff that these people will say anything to lure you away but if you go then there’s no way back. It gives you a bad name. I taught the majority of my staff and I care about them. I want them to progress but only if it really improves their situation,” says Mike. Despite the ‘razzmatazz’ surrounding the industry, Mike says that “In many ways, it was almost better when it was all a bit more spit and sawdust. We should be enjoying this surge and making the most of it. You can’t do much about the competition but you can have respect for each other!”
SPECIAL F E AT U R E
HERITAGE HEROES – 1922 BY J.M.KEUNE Apothecary inspired family-owned brand Keune is looking back to see a bright future.
I
n 1922 Jan Keune, an ambitious young chemist in Amsterdam developed Europe’s very first liquid perm and went on to build a brand of high impact formulas now available in 70 countries. Ninety-six years on his grandsons are launching a handsomely curated men’s range in his name. 1922 by J.M.Keune pours nearly a century of innovation into its distinctive deep blue and black packaging, inspired by Keune’s apothecary heritage. Keune’s focus is ‘never settle, never compromise’ and the family company explored every route to providing barbershops with a professional range that exceeds expectations for barbers and their clients. From their HQ in the Netherlands that includes labs, manufacturing, a studio and classrooms all under one roof, Keune worked with a global network of barbers and men’s stylists to create a tightly edited range built on three pillars – modern craftsmanship, scientific heritage and effective ingredients. 20 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
MODERN CRAFSTMANSHIP - Crafted in the heart of The Netherlands, all under one roof for optimal quality control, 1922 listened hard to the needs of its global professional network. Two UK barbering ambassadors, Tom Chapman and James Beaumont, have been closely involved in the development and launch. Founder Jan’s grandson Eelco Keune exhaustively researched the bespoke scent and worked with a Parisian Perfumer to find the signature manly scent that connects the products. SCIENTIFIC HERITAGE – Innovation is in the Keune blood and science is the root of their story. The new range celebrates a brand born in the 1920’s just as the era enjoys a modern day celebration of traditional men’s style. There is a science in every choice for 1922 from the handsome packaging with shelf appeal to the honest delivery of benefits in each product. EFFECTIVE INGREDIENTS – 1922 is enriched with Creatine known for its
strengthening properties to rebuild, reinforce and reduce breakage and Hemp to nourish and soothe. The range includes cleansing, conditioning, styling, grooming and natural camouflage colour. James Beaumont says “It’s amazing to be asked to be a part of this project. Before I was asked I had been working with Keune UK for six years, so it shows I am a true believer in the brand and its products. I was attracted to Keune at first because I am part of a family business, so it was great to work with another family owned brand. I feel Keune truly care about its customers; that includes professional customers and ultimately the experience of the barbers’ customers.” To find out more about Keune, sample the products or ask about how you can use and/or stock 1922 by J.M.Keune then please contact 0333 123 4411. Visit www.keune. uk.com/1922
SPECIAL F E AT U R E
1922 BY J.M.KEUNEMAKING SCENTS
NEW LAUNCH
ESSENTIAL SHAMPOO
BEARD OIL
cleanses and hydrates hair, beard and body.
softens, moisturises and adds natural shine.
Tom loves: This is a really efficient cleanser, I chatted with the lab guys at Keune HQ about the ingredient Creatine. Leave this shampoo on for five minutes and it will be extra effective at rebuilding hair.
James loves: This beard oil is great for shaving, shaping and lining up due to all the rich sweet almond and avocado oils in the product. It’s easily absorbed, there is no build-up on the skin and hair can be removed gently.
James loves: Works so well for hair, body and beard and the fragrance is a winner. I’m literally bathed in it!
Every professional barbershop brand has to make sense – it has to do its job brilliantly, look the part, position well. Oh! And smell great too. So say hello to 1922 by J.M.Keune.
T
his heritage inspired range embraces premium formula’s fortified with Creatine and enriched with nourishing Hemp plus every product is infused with a bespoke manly scent that customers can’t get enough of! Two busy UK men’s hair experts aren’t just putting
a new brand through its paces, they’ve been part of the journey to get it on its feet. Tom Chapman and James Beaumont share their early favourites from 1922 by J.M.Keune’s tightly edited range. For more information, trade prices, retail enquiries and samples please contact 0333 123 4411. Visit www.keune. uk.com/1922
Tom loves: An essential for facial hair. It works like a conditioner for the beard, when skin naturally produces sebum to protect the skin and moisturise the hair. However as the beard hair grows the sebaceous gland can struggle to produce enough sebum, so the beard oil helps out by protecting the skin from elements whilst softening beard hair. Essential for anyone with any beard growth.!
PREMIER PASTE extra strong hold, matt finish for effortless looks. Tom loves: Great finishing product that produces a matte look, extremely pliable and soft to apply, yet sets reasonably quickly securing the look. I use it as a fantastic pre-styling foundation product before blow drying. This creates structure and hold to the hair, enabling the barber to manipulate the hair into the desired style. James loves: This is a fast working product that gives hair lots of volume. It’s great for customers that want a classic slick look with a modern matt finish. This sells out time and time again.
PREMIUM CLAY strong hold, matte finish ideal to create texture in shorter styles James loves: This is the perfect dry, matte hair product for men’s hair. Great for short to medium length styles and a total hero for French crops. Tom loves: Great hold and texture and you can use the hairdryer to soften the product and restyle it, time and time again. 1922 is a truly complete range for barbers and looks fantastic on shelf in the shop and in the client’s bathroom shelves too!
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IN COLLABORATION WITH
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MR HAWKE FLEX POMADE Does what it says on the tin! Malleable, caring, long lasting hold formula with a manly scent. Coming to the UK soon. Trade enquires woodhouse@mrhawke.com
TABAC Original Shaving Soap Softens the beard hairs and facilitates an easy and particularly close shave, comes with a reusable bowl! 125g. Price £8.40. barberblades.co.uk.
American Crew Firm Hold Styling Cream Moisturising formula, with pliable hold, flexible definition and low shine. Washes out easily without leaving residue behind. RRP £12.90. Americancrew. com/@americancrewuk
Clubman Reserve Whiskey Woods Finest Powder
Takara Belmont’s Apollo 2 Grooming Chair
Contemporary masculine fragrance combines Tobacco Leaf and Bergamot for a rich, smoky note that also leaves every man feeling fresh and rejuvenated. 255g. Price £8.00. barberblades.co.uk.
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FINE FETTLE GROOMING A NOD TO THE EARL BEARD OIL With Cedarwood, Bergamot and Rosewood for an aroma of smoked wood with a citrus hint. Natural oil to condition, nourish and soften. (30ml). Price £16.99. Finefettlegrooming.com
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NEW
ILLUMINATED BARBER POLE Illuminated and revolving pole to catch the eye of customers. Suitable for outdoors. Easy to install. H 70cm W 27cm D33cm SPECIAL OFFER £65 + VAT. To order call 01455 660 024 barberequipmentcentreuk.co.uk
Andis T-Outliner® Cordless Li Iconic T-Outliner look and feel, 100 minutes of run time, heavy-duty rotary motor delivering 7,200 strokes per minute. Great for outlining, designing and dry-shaving. Price £149.00 andis.com
PRODUCTS
NEW
Burban Beard Balm This balm keeps that bristly beard detangled and itchfree while moisturising and nourishing the skin beneath. Includes the stimulating and protective properties of Vitamin-E (75ml). Price £6.99 ex VAT salon-services.com
WAHL CORDLESS DETAILER Rotary motor and extrawide T-shaped blades (38 mm) that are suitable for all kinds of trimming. Can be zero-gapped for tattooing and scroll work. 60 minutes run time. Inc: three attachment combs (#1–#3), white flat-top comb, blade guard, cleaning brush and clipper oil. RRP £101.99. wahlglobal.com
NEW
Burban Shaving Cream Prepare, nourish and protect your skin while moisturising and soothing. Rich with sweet almond oil (150ml). Price £9.49 ex VAT salon-services.com
JACK DEAN CLUB BRUSH Essential men’s grooming brush with tufts of extra-soft natural bristle, making it ideal for use on fine or thinning hair. £10 inc VAT. denmanbrush.com.
Vantage Barber Chair by REM Available in over 20 different fabrics with a three Year Warranty. Fully reclining, moving adjustable footrest and leg action. Made in Britain. Prices from £1130 ex VAT. rem.co.uk.
NEW
Fudge Professional Mineral Paste
The Bluebeards Revenge Vanguard Synthetic Bristle A synthetic bristle shaving brush offering all the softness and water-retaining qualities of a pure badger brush. RRP £21.99. bluebeards-revenge.co.uk
Kent Master Barber Comb 184mm coarse and fine toothed comb. £2.00 inc VAT. kentbrushes.com
TEA TREE SCALP CARE ANTI-THINNING ROOT LIFT FOAM
Hydrating, re-mouldable medium hold formula for a rugged texture and in-built protection to moisturise and nourish. Great for tousled definition. Price £12.95/75g fudgeprofessional.com.
NEW
Tea Tree Scalp Care is a preventative system that gently and naturally helps slow down the process of hair thinning. AntiThinning Root Lift Foam is perfect for volumizing and texturizing fine and thinning hair. (200ml) RRP £17.95. paul-mitchell.co.uk. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 25
SOCIAL
Instagram Likes Won’t Pay The Bills
the bills. If you aren’t maximising every revenue opportunity within your shop, then it’s all for nothing. Master your bread and butter, the fame will follow.
I
n the words of Bros from the late eighties… When will I, will I be famous? I can’t answer that, can’t answer that! Every barber I talk to right now wants their name up in lights. Barbering and men’s hairdressing are hugely popular right now, so it’s increasingly more difficult for barbers to stand out. My advice is focus on hard work and dedication, then good things will happen. You need to have something unique that sets you apart – whether it’s a specific style that you become renowned for or the way you present yourself on social media. Don’t just concentrate on one of these things though, you need to be the complete
“You need to have something unique that sets you apart – whether it’s a specific style that you become renowned for or the way you present yourself on social media. Don’t just concentrate on one of these things though, you need to be the complete package.” package. You need to pay close attention to every detail such as the service you offer, the quality of your work, the products you retail in your shop. It’s all well and good getting 10,000 likes on every Instagram post, but likes won’t pay 28 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
My top tips for increasing revenue would be: Staff Training – If you’re retailing products in your shop, then make sure your staff know them inside out. Clients trust their barbers implicitly, so make sure your staff are able to capitalise on this and push those sales through. Product Marketing – Ensure your products are clearly visible in your shop and positioned where your clients can see them. MARK MACIVER
Barber of the Issue: Mark Maciver
I
have been so impressed with Mark’s work. He stole the show on the Wahl stage at HJ with his unique presentation skills. Loving his work, passion and the way he passes on his knowledge to others. You might have seen him on TV recently as part of Facebook’s campaign for how small businesses use their network to promote themselves. If you want to learn more, follow him on Instagram @slidercuts
The Right Product – Think about your clientele and what products they would be interested in. Do you offer a wet shave service? Then make sure you retail the products you use. In other news Wahl hosted a stage at HJ Live London for the first time as we invited new educators and platform artists to present their skills on the big stage and I was hugely impressed with several acts. This got me thinking that Wahl should be providing more opportunities for barbers that are standing out from the rest. So, for the first time, Wahl will be opening up our main stage at Barber Connect for this new talent to come and perform on the original number one barbering stage. This could be career defining for some, I can’t wait to announce who the lucky acts are. Keep an eye on the Wahl Instagram. Make sure you follow @WahlProUK.
SOCIAL
Dates for your Diary FA Cup Final, Wembley London (19th May) Hair UK, NEC Birmingham (20th & 21st May) Barber Connect, The International Centre Telford (3rd & 4th June)
Barber Shop of the Issue: Murdock London (Covent Garden)
G
reat shop, great team and great customer service. With nine shops gracing some of London’s most iconic streets, Murdock is a great example for how to create the best experience for your customer. If you are in London, these guys are well worth a visit: murdocklondon.com
HAIR: REECE BEAK IMAGE: LIAM OAKES
Product of the Issue: Cordless Detailer
T
he Cordless Detailer will have just launched by the time you read this and it’s already been
more popular than the Cordless Senior! You get everything you’d expect from the Detailer, with the same T-wide blade and the closest trim on the market, but with the added benefit of no cord and an adjustable blade that enables trimming, blending and tapering.
Style Tips My prediction for the summer look is crops. Still maintaining the fade but textured tops with different fringes. I love to see curls along with straight texture popping through. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 29
TRANSFORM DON’T CONFORM Our Toffee Fibre Paste is a bestseller for good reason! Our Toffee fibre paste is the ultimate styling product giving you extreme hold and definition that lasts the distance. Gives your hair texture with a low shine finish. The soft pliable texture is easy to use and the toffee smell will have people eating out of your hand.
www.kipa.co.uk
THE
JM O OV E IM NE N T
MR.BARBERS | TRADITIONAL BRITISH BARBERSHOPS
BARNET | BRAINTREE | BURY ST EDMUNDS | B.STORTFORD | CAMBRIDGE | CHELMSFORD | C O L C H E S T E R | C H E S T E R | E N F I E L D | E LY | H A V E R H I L L | H I T C H I N | I P S W I C H W AT E R F R O N T | IPSWICH CENTRAL | LOUGHTON | NANTWICH | NEWMARKET | NORWICH | S A F F R O N WA L D E N | S TA N S T E D | S TO W M A R K E T | S U D B U RY W W W. M R B A R B E R S . C O . U K
I N F O @ M R B A R B E R S. C O. U K
@MRBARBERS
SOCIAL
DRIVING FORCE Wayne Anthony already has a stand out rep in Halifax but he’s driving it home with this 1954 Chevy Rat Rod.
restore the car and Wayne spent many hours on YouTube learning skills such as how to spray the patina. The project is rich in detail from the cutthroat hood ornament to the gangster violin case on the back seat. Wayne has been approached by film companies, photographers and as car hire for weddings and proms. It’s also a great backdrop for team photos for Wayne’s shop marketing. “I don’t just love the car I love the story that goes with it. The car has a long scratch on one side that I decided to keep when I found out how it got there. The previous owner is doing a 25 year prison stretch and was caught when the police ran him off the road!”
W
ayne Anthony of Wayne Anthony Executive Barbers is always looking for great ways to market his business and his latest project is a labour of love. “I found this car through FB and had it imported from Oklahoma, Texas. Our shop is all 1940’s and 50’s themed so this 1954 Chevy was exactly what I was looking for. I love Mad Max and so I knew I wanted a kind of Rat Rod look. The car was a shell and I stripped it all the way back to the bare metal. I did 32 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
it all myself apart from the upholstery and it took the whole Summer. It’s a real show stopper and everyone loves it. Customers take pictures in it and everyone stops to look,” says Anthony. It took around 500 hours to completely
Photography: Nigel Ibbotson. MUA: Mike Wilkinson Wayne Anthony Team ‘Badass Barbers’: Right to left. Lea Cosgrove, Izak Lewis, Wayne Anthony, Sara Lewandowski, Morgan Hodgson.
THE MOBAA’S FINALS Come and celebrate, come to support your friends, come and network but make sure you come! WHEN
WHERE
Sunday May 13th 2018 1-6pm
The Club at 100 Wardour Street, Soho, W1
What’s included: Welcome drink and photographic finalist’s gallery show courtesy of American Crew. Finger food to soak up the drink! A handsome goody bag to take away. Live music.
TICKETS £45pp plus booking fee. Go to Eventbrite. co.uk, just search Modern Barber or MOBAA’s.
WIN £200 OF VOUCHERS for iconic jewellery store, The Great Frog London (thegreatfroglondon.com) – every ticket you buy to the MOBAA’s is a raffle ticket. T&C’s apply and you’ve got to collect your prize at the event in person to qualify.
THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS
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FREE TICKETS NOW AVAILABLE AT WWW.BARBERCONNECT.CO.UK
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SPECIAL F E AT U R E
GET CASH BACK ON THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE TRAINING
10% BOOK ING DISCOUNT WHEN YOU QUOTE MBARBER10 *.
5 Top Tips from shave expert Luigi Caterino
Wear tight-fitting gloves while shaving so that you can feel your client’s face for a closer, smoother shave. Great hygiene is essential. Use a sharp, new replaceable blade in your cut-throat razor for every shave. Change the blade in front of your customer to build trust too. Use a face scrub to exfoliate your customer’s skin and remove dirt and grime. This adds an extra pampering element that will set your shave apart from the competition. Pinch the hairs on your shaving brush to reduce the surface area of the bristles and easily coat the moustache area without covering your client’s mouth. Finish the shave by dusting a little talcum powder to remove excess moisture that might still be sitting on the face.
The Bluebeards Revenge launches training with earning potential.
P
remium men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge has now launched their very own barber training service responding to the demand for high-quality professional education. Cut-throat shaves remain one of the fastest growing shop services in the UK and the average cost of a professional shave has risen over 20% in the last three years to £17. That means with an average of just one shave client a day, you would add a whopping £5k to your bottom line. Pile on the associated retail opportunities and your average bill rises steadily northward boosting those profit margins
still further. The Bluebeards Revenge has created a range of one day courses that work brilliantly for building a skill portfolio and professional development. Short, sharp, to the point and delivered in the most convenient location possible – your very own shop. The new training service is led by multi-award-winning barber Luigi Caterino, winner of Britain’s Best Wet Shaving Barber in 2015 and Best Barber Scotland 2017. Luigi Head Trainer for The Bluebeards Revenge signature wet shave course says: “Traditional wet shaving is a service that is once again experiencing incredible growth in barber shops and unisex salons. It’s a service that I have have offered my customers for decades. It generates a lot of extra revenue in my shops and is something I encourage everyone working in our industry to learn.” Luigi has poured all of his knowledge into The Bluebeards Revenge Shave Day, helping it to become one of the most complete and developed
*T&C’s: only available on the Signature Shave Course. Only available to barbers with a UK postcode. Booking offer valid until 30/06/18. Course must be taken before 31/12/18.
shaving courses on the market. As well as learning the complexities and techniques needed to perform a traditional wet shave with a cut-throat razor, the course teaches professionals how to elevate the shaving experience they deliver by adding in facial treatments, after-care and detailed information on The Bluebeards Revenge product range PLUS every learner will be awarded a certificate of achievement and a complimentary shaving bundle worth £100. For more information and to book a course with The Bluebeards Revenge Training service, please visit www. bluebeards-revenge.co.uk/training.
Rob had a light bulb moment and joined the NHF …
FOR LESS THAN 75P A DAY HE NOW BENEFITS FROM:
SELF-EMPLOYED? SOLO MEMBERSHIP COSTS EVEN LESS.
•
24/7 employment law/HR helpline plus legal expenses cover
We know the hair and barbering business inside out – you’ll wonder what you did without us!
•
Commercial law helpline
•
Health & safety, tax and payroll advice
To find out why it pays to join the NHF
•
Ready-made employment, apprenticeship and chair renting contracts
email us: enquiries@nhf.info
•
Brilliant ideas for boosting his business
Call us on: 01234 831965 or www.nhf.info/join-nhf
Join before 30 June and quote MB25 to get £25 off your membership fee.
TO P T I PS HOW TO… MANAGE PEOPLE SUCCESSFULLY
HOW TO… EMPLOY A BARBERING APPRENTICE Taking on an apprentice in your barbershop is your chance to offer someone a great opportunity whilst growing your own loyal talent and bringing a young person’s energy, creativity and ideas to your business. FIND OUT MORE ABOUT ‘TRAILBLAZER’ STANDARDS! In England only, Apprenticeship frameworks are being phased out and replaced by ‘Trailblazer’ standards. “Trailblazer standards for level 2 are now government-approved and they are set at a higher standard as they include a wider range of skills than the older apprenticeship frameworks. With Trailblazer standards, apprentices will develop all the skills they need to work in a barbershop,” says Hilary Hall, CEO of the NHF (nhf.info). The NHF offers Members FREE apprenticeship agreements for shops across the UK which includes the new Trailblazer agreements for England. Reforms are also underway in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland – check for updates at: www.skillsdevelopmentscotland.co.uk; gov.wales and www.niassembly.gov.uk. ‘GRAB A GRAND’ IF YOU TAKE ON A YOUNG APPRENTICE - If your barbershop business has fewer than 50 employees, you and your training provider will each receive an incentive payment of £1,000 for each 16-18-yearold apprentice you take on (or 19-24-year-old who has been in care or has a local authority care plan) . Find out more on the GOV.UK website. CHECK THE APPRENTICE PAY RATES: DON’T BE CAUGHT OUT - From April 2018, apprentice rates will rise from £3.50 to £3.70 an hour but an 38 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
Phylli Robinson won Manager of the Year at the MR Barbers Awards. She manages MR Barbers in Ipswich. Here are her tips on managing people.
apprentice aged 19 or over must get the National Minimum Wage appropriate for their age in the second year of their apprenticeship. Fines apply if you fail to do so.
NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE AT A GLANCE … APRIL 2017
25 & OVER: 21 - 24: 18 - 20: UNDER 18: APPRENTICE*:
APRIL 2018
25 & OVER: 21 - 24: 18 - 20: UNDER 18: APPRENTICE*:
£7.70 £7.05 £5.60 £4.05 £3.50
£7.83 £7.38 £5.90 £4.20 £3.70
*Apprentices aged 19 or over must get the NMW appropriate for their age in the second year of their apprenticeship. The NHF offers a range of business support services for barbershops, from legal, employment and financial guidance to expert advice for managing people and boosting your business. www.nhf.info
PRAISE THEM – take time out to recognise a job well done. It only takes moments to say ‘great cut!’ It will be appreciated. TALK REGULARLY – sit down and actually talk. It doesn’t have to be really formal but it does have to be regular. FOLLOW MY LEADER – the more the leader does, the more the team will do. Demonstrate behaviour and activity that you want people to follow. GOOD VIBES ONLY – remember how staff like their coffee. Be nice, be positive. It will rub off on them. BUILD BONDS – build a relationship that lasts and never switch off the barber pole at the end of the day without addressing an issue. Problems grow over night. Follow @ mrbarbersipswichwaterfront
call: 0800 009 6080
email: info@qjunkie.co.uk
The essential barbershop app! Solve your daily problems! Qjunkie is a real time queuing system allowing clients to join the queue on the day or up 7 days in advance:
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Cut the walkouts, Take back control with the real-time virtual queuing app.
• Auto reminders for clients keeps the queue flowing smoothly. • Maximise your full earning potential. • We have clients in your area wanting to book-in your shop.
FREE 60 day trial! or visit: www.qjunkie.co.uk
40 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK
CORDLESS DETAILER
Introducing the NEW Cordless Detailer as part of the Wahl 5 Star Series - the specialist range of powerful, dynamic clippers and trimmers created to bring state of the art technology right to your barbershop or salon. EXTENDED WIDE RANGE DETAILING
UNIQUE ADJUSTABLE TAPER LEVER ENABLES TRIMMING, BLENDING AND TAPERING OF THE HAIRLINE
EXTRA WIDE TSHAPED BLADES
PRODUCE FASTER CUTTING RESULTS THAN STANDARD TRIMMER BLADES ENABLING SUPER CLOSE TRIMMING, OUTLINES AND ACCURATE DETAIL WORK
CORDLESS
TO PROVIDE FLEXIBILITY AND FREEDOM OF USE WHEREVER YOU ARE
C E L E B R AT I N G
80
YEARS
AROUND
THE
WORLD
THE
ULTIMATE BARBERING COLLECTION Experience the incredible power and control you get with the ultimate barbering collection from Denman.
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See the full range at denmanbrush.com