2021 Mohair Journal | Volume 62

SAMIL NATURAL FIBRES

HOME OF SUSTAINABLE MOHAIR

Front Cover

Photographer – David Dettman

Location – Olivewoods Farm, Somerset East. Wienand Family

Farmworker – Elvis June Mnyanda

Contents Image

Model – Tina Lerato, Penderry Farm, Bedford

Photographer – David Dettman

The Mohair Journal

127 Fordyce Road, Walmer, Port Elizabeth, 6070

Telephone: 041 581 1681

E-mail: info@mohair.co.za

Website: www.mohair.co.za

Official journal of the SA Mohair Growers Association, Angora Ram Breeders Society and Mohair South Africa.

Editor: Siobhan Momberg (Marketing & Communications Officer) Contributors:

Marco Coetzee

Sandy Coffey

Alice Connacher Cobus de Klerk

Linda Henderson

The

Mohair

Journal does not accept responsibility for any claims made in advertisements. The opinions of contributors are also not necessarily those of the Mohair Journal.

Receiving the task of taking on the annual journal for the mohair industry was daunting but exciting. My chance was here. I viewed it as an opportunity, an opportunity to expand my knowledge in the mohair industry, visit producers, share stories and experiences, understand their needs and witness their dedication.

It was an opportunity to reach out to the global market to better understand their needs and what information is critical for them to take better informed decisions regarding their mohair sourcing.

The truth is they want to hear your stories – from your animals, the land they graze on, the hands that handle the fibre and the journey it travels to reach its final destination.

There is a connection being craved in a world where exploring and touch has been put on hold. A connection that we can so easily satisfy. We have to share our passion, stories and struggles with one another and the world. This is what this journal aims to do - share industry stories with the industry and the global marketnew beginnings.

As for our producers and everyone involved in the South African mohair industry, I take my hat off and salute you all.

Looking back at where we have come from, tackling the challenge head on, breaking down the walls that divide us,

Message from the Editor

and working as a collective, we have pushed the boundaries beyond measure.

Adopting the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) was no easy task, but you have managed to implement it seamlessly. This is just the mere beginning of our journey to a sustainable future and one that, despite challenges, holds many opportunities.

Together we will navigate the way forward, one step at a time, adopting a proactive stance and calling ourselves leaders in the field.

A passionate industry built on a solid foundation. One that I am very proud to be a part of.

“Innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower” Steve Jobs

Siobhan Momberg

Message from the Chairman of SAMGA

Mark Shires

Charles Dickens once wrote: “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of light, it was the season of darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair.” I doubt anyone could have summed up the last two years better.

As 2021 draws to a close, we need to reflect upon the year that has been.

Extreme drought has continued unabated over a large section of our production area, leading to producers having to feed almost every animal on their farms. This has put massive financial burdens on already cash-strapped farmers.

The fact that they have endured and have managed to continue producing high-quality mohair is a testament to the excellence of the South African mohair farmer.

The advent of RMS (Responsible Mohair Standard) and the way the brands and consumers have embraced it have provided the producers with mohair prices that have never been obtained

before. This has provided a welcome financial relief for the mohair farmer.

Hopefully, these prices can be maintained so that, when the rains come, which they will, we can get back to a sense of normality whereby we can start making money and not just making a living.

Once again, I implore all producers to be RMS-certified. The difference it will make to your income is too big to ignore. Contact your broker and have them walk the walk with you so that you can be audited.

It is with great pleasure to see the growth of our industry being achieved in areas which we did not expect.

The North West branch was opened this year in Wolmaransstad and they have been making great strides in adapting and expanding. Our manager, Sanmarie Vermaak, must take a lot of credit for organising the visit and opening the branch.

The global-warming phenomenon has meant that biosecurity has become an essential part of the modern-day farmer. More and more diseases have been identified among our stock which will have to be monitored and treated.

We have to understand that we will not get assistance to fight this problem and, as we have discovered for quite some time, we have to paddle our own boat. This, coupled with pressure on our investments to be able to achieve our objectives in the industry, might mean we will have to ask producers to assist in the form of a levy in the near future.

Branches that would like to have information days must please contact the SAMGA manager Sanmarie Vermaak. These days have been well received by branches who have asked for them.

The farmworkers training day is generally organised in conjunction with the information day. Please try to organise such a day as it is highly beneficial to everyone attending.

In this regard, I would like to thank our industry vet, Dr Mackie Hobson, for his part in the training and his contribution to the industry over the past year.

Thank you to our tireless manager, Sanmarie, for her contribution during this challenging year.

My thanks go out to the SAMGA committee members for their help and support over the last year and I am looking forward to working with them in the new year.

Thanks to Marco Coetzee and the staff of Mohair SA, as well as Beauty Mokgwamme from the Empowerment Trust. It is so rewarding to see the close working relationship which has developed with the whole industry.

Furthermore I would like to applaud the Mohair SA team on their production of the weekly newsletter, under the expert guidance of Siobhan Momberg, which is sent to our producers and the industry. It is a time-consuming task but you have never failed to deliver.

The continuous communication is a great step towards bringing this industry together, keeping us all in the know, and encouraging communication across the board. Well done!

Lastly, to my fellow producers, you should be applauded for your tenacity and endurance in these hard times. You have shown, yet again, the reason why the mohair industry is recognised as the most forward-thinking and sustainable farming industry.

I wish you all good health and a successful year with good rains.

2020/21, what a challenging time to live in

During 2020 we were struck with the ongoing drought throughout our mohair-producing areas.

And then came the COVID-19 pandemic, which has made our work even more challenging.

South Africans had no choice but to endure a lockdown for the large part of the year, resulting in many activities such as congress, training and information days being postponed.

As COVID-19 took its course, we heard of people being affected by the virus. Today we all know someone, be it family or friends, who has been affected. It has been tragic for many, and our condolences go to each and every person mourning a loved one.

On a lighter note, a large part of our producing areas received some much-needed rain, although many districts are still caught in the midst of the drought. We pray for continuous rain throughout the entire mohair-producing area.

This year kicked the SAMGA office off with a bang. We welcomed a new branch from North West into our mohair family. What an experience to see how well our Angora goats adjust to the climate and the veld in the province.

We also welcomed producers from Wolmaransstad, Bronkhorstspruit, Brits and Hartswater, who joined the branch.

We hosted two productive days with these producers, talking about our industry and our amazing goats, and finishing our visit off with a farmworkers training day. We were delighted to see the enthusiasm shown by the guys!

Two of the producers from the new branch also joined the Angora Rambreeders Society. We are so blessed to have people from non-traditional mohair-producing areas join and participate in our industry with so much passion.

Making up for lost time, we also had the opportunity to attend two information days and three farmworkers training days during 2021.

We received invites from two branches to visit their branch meetings. Unfortunately lockdown hit again, which put a halt on

planned training days.

I was invited by the Mohair Empowerment Trust officer Beauty Mokgwamme to attend a mohair-classing course at House of Fibre during lockdown, giving me more insight into our precious fibre, which will assist with the farmworkers training. Thank you, Beauty, for sharing your knowledge.

We took the Empowerment Trust partners on an industry tour. It was amazing to see their reactions as they worked through the mohair-processing stage and realised that their mohair forms part of the tops.

I am so grateful to have been able to work with the Empowerment Trust.

I have had the privilege of working closely with Siobhan Momberg from Mohair SA over the last couple of months. We visited a few producers on their farms who were kind enough to let us take some video and photography footage for marketing and training material.

I joined a photoshoot where Mohair SA collaborated with an Italian spinner to assist with photos for their clients. It was an amazing opportunity to witness the time and effort Mohair SA puts in to market the mohair industry.

During these trips I met producers for the first time. It is great to know our producers and I look forward to meeting many more. I want to thank everyone from Mohair SA for making me feel so welcome in my first year back in PE.

Thank you to each and every producer, no matter how big or how small your flock is, for being part of our wonderful mohair family.

Thank you to our producers who took the time to get your RMS certification sorted – we appreciate all your efforts.

I will continue to pray for health, lots of rain and good mohair prices for every producer and their families.

May the rest of 2021 and 2022 be exceptional for you all.

From the SAMGA Office Sanmarie Vermaak

2020/21 Mohair Market Report

Marco Coetzee General Manager

The 2020 mohair summer season started off positively for producers, with the price increasing by 29% in the second sale of the season.

Then the global COVID-19 pandemic that dramatically affected the world economy hit us.

This impacted directly on the South African mohair industry as the country was placed under national lockdown from the end of March, 2020.

A sharp fall in commodity prices and a collapse in the global retail demand, combined with restrictions on processing and exports during the hard lockdown in South Africa, resulted in mohair prices falling consistently throughout the rest of the summer season for the average market indicator to close on R227.37 per kg.

The 2020 mohair winter season started on a similar note, with the second sale being the low price point of the entire season.

From September the demand for mohair began to recover, with December showing the highest monthly export volumes for the 2020 calendar year.

The mohair price started to increase again from September last year and by December 2020, the average market indicator reached R252.34 per kg, which is 12% more than the start of the 2020 mohair winter season, as seen in figure 1

By the end of February 2021, a rising price trend was evident, with a booming demand for mohair and the price reaching new heights.

The availability of RMS mohair played a big role in the increase in demand as major retailers and brands started to get back into the market. By May 25 this year the average market indicator closed on R394.97 per kg.

A comparison of the clip composition between 2019 and 2020 can be seen in figure 2, which indicates some minor changes. Fine adult mohair decreased by 2% and kid mohair increased by 2%.

It is apparent that the mohair clip is getting finer year on year for the last couple of years due to the ongoing drought in the majority of the SA production areas.

The buyers’ share of the market, indicated in figure 3, changed quite a bit from 2019 due to the COVID-19 pandemic, with top makers taking up 83% of the market and the greasy buyers only getting 17% of the market share.

Italy remains the leading buyer of South African mohair, importing 34% of the total SA mohair exported.

China’s figures increased significantly from the previous year and remained the second biggest importer of SA mohair (31%).

The United Kingdom figures increased by 24%, and they are now the third biggest importer of mohair from this country (11%).

Overall , the export of mohair has increased slightly from 2019 to 2020, as seen in figure 4

The total South African mohair clip is estimated at around 2.16-million kilograms for 2020, which is 3.85% more than 2019. This is a testament to the fortitude and perseverance of SA mohair growers who had to cope with the drought conditions experienced over most of the production area and a decreasing mohair price due to the pandemic.

The main focus for the SA mohair industry is sustainability, traceability and producing fibres within an ethical environment.

Progress with regards to the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) certification is going well, with 986 companies across the mohair value chain being RMS/RWS certified.

On the mohair producer front, 64% of the product sold on the South African sale on May 25 was RMS certified. The average for the 2021 summer season saw approximately 60% RMS-certified SA mohair.

The goals of the RMS are to provide the industry with tools to recognise the best practices of farmers and to ensure that mohair comes from farms with an advanced approach to land management, animal welfare and social responsibility.

Beyond the farm, it also aims to provide a system of traceability throughout the entire value chain – from farm to finished product.

On that front, Mohair South Africa collaborated with Oritain, a global company that specialises in traceability through forensic science. Oritain provides a service that enables you to trace an actual product back to its true origin using advanced science, a new benchmark for product traceability.

We have recently completed the sample collection phase and are excited to share more information in the near future.

The industry in SA remains committed to producing sustainable and traceable mohair within an ethical environment.

“The Martyrsford Angora Stud was established in 1871 with the purpose of breeding well -built and balanced angora goats for the industry, with fleeces that have exceptional length, solidity and yolk.

As the stud turns 150 years old this year, we look back and honour the sacrifices, toil and determination of those who went before us.

We shall continue to endeavour to uphold the standards and values that have made the MartyrsfordAngoraStud one of the leading angora goat studs in the world.”

Sean Hobson – Current Stud Master

www.martyrsfordangoras.co.za

Gerda Hayward, The Livestock Photographer and Newlands Angoras and Guest Sellers

The year 2020 was a challenging yet progressive year for the Mohair Empowerment Trust as we learnt to adapt to new realities, teaching us to grow with change.

It’s incredible looking back on what our partners achieved. Unfortunately we have been left to mourn two partners and one student due to the pandemic.

The soul of George, a young, energetic and passionate farmer. Ntate Harris, the old man from Matatiele, was a great farmer and mentor to many. Lastly, Noludwe, an agriculture graduate. After a long struggle to secure a job, this young lady had just begun to build her future. She was a cheerful, hard worker and we were looking forward to watching her grow within the mohair industry. My heart goes out to their loved ones, and may their souls continue to rest in peace.

The Trust is proud to announce that we currently have 10 development projects running, involving around 6 000 goats, which contribute about 16 500kg of RMS-certified mohair towards the South African mohair industry.

The highlight of 2020 was our journey with the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS). The Mohair Empowerment Trust (MET) embraced the instant slowdown of the industry due to COVID-19 and focused on educating and training its partners about the RMS.

Workshops were hosted in collaboration with the brokers, highlighting the importance of the RMS and training on how to become RMS-certified. The MET is proud to reveal that all 10 partners have passed their RMS audits, giving us a 100% RMS rating.

It is incredible to see all the effort and hard work demonstrated by our partners. The RMS has taken the MET on a journey, ensuring our partners are committed to best farming practices. We aim to supply RMS-certified mohair to meet the rising demand, while adhering to these best practices.

Regardless of the pandemic, we continued training farmers, farmworkers and agriculture graduates, as well as on-farm training and the annual mohair training for Grootfontein Agricultural College, with all COVID protocols in place.

The best part of my job is training. I have a passion for it and I love to help others learn.

The MET also had the privilege of hosting eight graduates within the mohair industry in partnership with the Eastern Cape Department of Rural Development and Agrarian Reform (DRDAR).

Empowerment Trust Adapts Beauty Mokgwamme

The graduates completed a two-year internship in March, 2021, with outstanding achievements, memories and passion for the industry. We thank each role-player who took our students on, teaching them skills valuable to our industry.

We are grateful for the partnership with DRDAR and wish our graduates all the best in their future endeavours. They will always be family to the Mohair Empowerment Trust.

We thank our graduates for their dedication through the long days and the tireless hours spent on the farms and with the brokers. You have not once let me down.

Thank you for being a great team and giving me the honour to mentor you all. I wish you all the best for your future and I find comfort knowing you are well prepared.

I learnt a lot in 2020. Such as things not turning out the way they should. I now know that you can get through the bad times and look forward to better ones. As long as you have the right people and structure to support your vision, you will get there.

Above all, I’m blessed and grateful for having a job I am passionate about. The Mohair Empowerment Trust is in my heart. It is incredible to be part of this beautiful industry and my passion is an inspiration to many.

I do not take this opportunity for granted and I look forward to empowering many more emerging farmers and growing the mohair industry.

My gratitude goes out to the Mohair Empowerment Trust partners for their commitment and hard work. I really appreciate our positive partnership. I am humbled to work with such a dedicated group of partners and I believe we have a bright future.

I would like to thank the following: the trustees of the Mohair Empowerment Trust for all the guidance and leadership; the commercial farmers for their backing and mentorship; the brokers and buyers for their support; SAMGA and MSA for the teamwork; the National Agricultural Marketing Council for reporting the Mohair Empowerment Trust’s work and transformation in the mohair industry to the Minister of Agriculture, Land Reform and Rural Development of South Africa; Agri SETA for generous funding for our training; and the Department of Agriculture, Rural Development and Agrarian Reform for its partnerships.

Angora Ram Breeders’ Society

Report by 2020 Chairman, George Hope

Somerset-EastOfficialSaleR16000.00R34000.00R16000.00R22800.00R10500.00R13800.00R5900.00R6400.00

Graaff-ReinetOfficialSaleR20000.00R155000.00R16300.00R51900.00R12000.00R13400.00R5900.00R5800.00

Newlands&GuestSellersR31000.00R61000.00R20500.00R31750.00R8100.00R11400.00R4600.00R6100.00

VanHasseltVeldramSaleR80000.00R28000.00R37000.00R19000.00R15700.00R14000.00R7700.00R7900.00

JansenvilleVeldramSaleR36000.00R25000.00R18200.00R20000.00R9200.00R8500.00R5100.00R5000.00

Graaff-ReinetVeldramSaleR27000.00R61000.00R23000.00R34000.00R11100.00R13600.00R4500.00R6300.00

NoorsveldRamSaleR5700.00—R3795.00—R5350.00—R3920.00—

Looking back on the last four years, I can only say there were definitely no dull moments.

As ram breeders and a Ram Breeders Association, we have been tested and put through our paces – drought, foot and mouth and COVID-19, to name just some of the hurdles we have had to overcome.

Mentioning them now almost seems like an anticlimax as they seemed to pose a much bigger problem at the time. But here we are, doing what we love and what we are passionate about.

This is a true testament to our ram breeders, always adaptable during difficult situations and producing breeding genetics to the mohair industry.

WELL DONE TO ALL!

The 2020/2021 ram season went surprisingly well under trying conditions. But it was a bit concerning to see the dramatic decrease in rams entered into the sales. I hope to see an increase in the numbers as farming conditions improve.

On the positive side, I’m very excited about the Ram Breeders Association. There are and have been quite a few new breeders registered over the last few years. This translates into a lot of young breeders with fresh ideas.

I want to welcome all our new breeders to the association and I look forward to your contribution.

To Sanmarie Vermaak and Anita Stears, I’d like to thank you for all your hard work throughout the year. It does not go unnoticed and it has been a pleasure working with you both.

Over the last four years, I’ve learnt things that I would never have known, I’ve met people that I would never have met, and seen places that I would never have seen.

I want to take this opportunity to thank the ram breeders for this. It has been an absolute privilege and honour to represent you. I hope that I have met your expectations during this period.

I have decided to hand over the reins – I think that the time is right. We have a lot of experience within the executive and I assure you that they will keep the momentum going.

To my executive, thank you for your support and honest opinions over the past four years.

Good luck to the new president, Mr Lloyd Short, and the vicepresident, Mr Hans Greeff.

 Graaff-Reinet Official Sale (Highest Price Achieved)

L to R: Petrie Mare (HOF), Andre van Zyl (auctioneer), Petrus & Angene Marx (buyers), Chris Curtain (HOF field agent), Jannie Lategan & son (Seller).

 Somerset-East Official Sale

L to R: Cassie Carstens (HOF field officer), Jordi van Hasselt (seller), Collin Goosen (buyer), Johannes de Jager (HOF field officer), Jakkie Nel (auctioneer).

 Van Hasselt Veldram Sale

L to R: Jakkie Nel (auctioneer), Cassie Carstens (HOF field officer), Jordi van Hasselt (seller), Kowie Olivier (buyer), Johan Botes (HOF).

 Newlands & Guest Sellers

L to R: Petrie Mare (HOF), Andre van Zyl (auctioneer), Stephan Erasmus (buyer), Jannie Lategan (seller), Chris Curtain (HOF field agent).

 Karoo Angoras Performance Tested Veldram Sale

L to R: Johan van der Schyff (seller), Johan du Pisani (seller), Roland du Toit (seller), Leon Eybers (seller), Frans Retief (buyer), Danie Strauss (auctioneer), Izak van der Merwe (seller), Roald Craddock (buyer), Willem Retief (seller).

 Jansenville Veldram Sale

L to R: Andre van Zyl (auctioneer), Chris Curtain (HOF field agent), Roelfie van der Merwe (seller), Richard Herold (buyer) not present.

 Graaff-Reinet Veldram Sale

L to R: Chris Curtain (HOF field agent), Andre van Zyl (auctioneer), Andries Coetsee (buyer), Jannie Lategan (seller), Roche Jongkind (HOF field agent).

 Noorsveld Ram Sale

L to R: Paul Mills (auctioneer), Andre Viviers (buyer), Fourie Vosloo (buyer), Mark Shires (Seller).

Welcoming the North West to the Mohair Industry

On February 16, 2021, we took the long road to Wolmaransstad. Unsure of how Angoras thrive in that area, we left the Eastern Cape full of excitement.

Wolmaransstad and the surrounding areas were so incredibly beautiful after the rain they had received – something our Karoo farmers are not used to at all! It just made me pray even harder for rain in our dry areas.

The next day saw SAMGA host a well-attended information day for producers and farmers interested in Angora farming. It was amazing to see producers from Wolmaransstad, Brits, Bronkhorstspruit and Hartswater attending.

During the information day I spoke about the work that SAMGA does in the industry as well as the role that the ram breeders play.

Mark Shires discussed the role of the Mohair Trust, while Lindsay Humphreys and Marco Coetzee presented an overview of the activities of Mohair South Africa and the path we have walked over the last three years.

Beauty Mokgwamme spoke about the Empowerment Trust and Dr Mackie Hobson addressed health in Angora goats.

At the end of the day we had three producers explaining how they farm with Angora goats in the Eastern Cape and the North West. They shared some of their challenges as well as their joys in farming with Angora goats.

It was a great day and we were excited to welcome the new producers of the North West branch.

On the Thursday we presented a farmworkers training day where all the producers were also present. It was so great to see the farmworkers listening so attentively to every piece of information shared.

They were given an in-depth course on how to handle Angora goats and how to monitor the overall health of a goat, as well as mohair classing.

During our return to the Eastern Cape, we could not stop talking about the incredible potential that exists in the North West.

The passion the new branch members have for Angora goats is contagious. I am really looking forward to the path that we are going to walk with these producers, and I look forward to watching this branch expand.

I want to thank every sponsor and every person who worked tireless hours behind the scenes to make this day an incredible success.

I also want to thank the producers from the North West for the incredible hospitality you showed. May your love for Angora goats ignite throughout the region. – Sanmarie Vermaak

The comments of other parties were:

Mark Shires: “The industry trip to Wolmaransstad for the opening of the North West branch was a resounding success.

“It achieved all the objectives which SAMGA set out to do, namely, having new members joining us, spreading information

about the mohair industry and training, not only the staff but producers, too.

“The enthusiasm displayed by the farmers in attendance was refreshing to see. I feel this could be the start of a substantial increase in mohair in an area that is not renowned for producing mohair.

“Congratulations to Sanmarie Vermaak for organising this opportunity.”

Dr Mackie Hobson: “From a vet health perspective, I was most impressed with the condition of the goats I saw, as well as the production figures, regarding both the mohair production and exceedingly low kid mortality rates.

“Petrus Marx and Stefan Erasmus had, in just a few years, established production systems that were very well adapted to their farming enterprises. “With good management systems, Angora goats in the area should do well.”

Petrus Marx (Wolmaransstad): “The Angora information day was a great success. We, as producers here in the North West, have learned a lot about the structures.

“It is good for us as producers and future producers to see that an industry functions so well, especially in the days in which we live today, as it makes us positive to invest in such a stable industry.

“On behalf of the farmers we just want to say a big thank you to everyone who was involved with the day. It’s nice for us to see, even though we’re small and only a few producers, that the industry is reaching out to us.

Angora Goat Information Day and Farmworkers Training

“I think the day made history with the first Angora information day and the establishment of a Mohair Growers branch in the North West. Definitely a day to remember!

“With such an industry behind us, we can proudly say we farm Angoras in the North West.”

Pauline Mostert (Bronkhorstspruit): “The North West Angora information day was invaluable to me.

“I fetched my first Angora ewes from Hofmeyr in the Karoo three years ago and brought them to Gauteng, after which my mentor, Johan du Plessis, was bombarded by endless questions.

“At first it was just for fun, but last week I was able to hear firsthand how to take my Angora farming to a higher standard, to take care of my kids so they can thrive and also to talk to fellow farmers from the region.

“I am now so excited about the future of our goats and look forward to learning even more about classing my mohair and eventually producing better mohair and becoming a fully-fledged Angora producer in Gauteng.”

We believe that shared knowledge, a vigorous commitment to continuous improvement, progressive, ethical and sustainable attitudes alongside financial discipline, are critical ingredients for the future success of the mohair industry.

SUSTAINABLE RESPONSIBLE VERSATILE

THE BEAUTY OF EMPOWERMENT Sandy Coffey

The word ‘empowerment’ has been used and (sometimes) abused around the world. It’s often misunderstood and seems to have many interpretations.

But in the mohair industry in South Africa, where it is a vital process, the meaning – “the process of becoming stronger and more confident, especially in controlling one’s life” – seems very apt. Something quite extraordinary has been unfolding.

The South African Mohair Empowerment Trust and what it is doing is a beacon of light, a shining example of a vital and sustainable process.

Established in 2010, in simple terms, its aim is to identify, empower and support emerging farmers within the mohair industry. This ensures a sustainable supply of mohair, establishes qualifying participants and entrepreneurs, and commercialises emerging farmers within the mohair industry.

And it’s done in an equitable and fair manner. The trustees are industry leaders and growers, but the management and implementation are key, and this is where Beauty Mokgwamme enters the picture.

The daughter of a domestic worker, who didn’t have the money to go to university to study further, she decided to enter the world of agriculture in 2003 and began studying at the Grootfontein Agricultural College, the only institution specialising in Angora goats.

“Yes, I was nervous – it was a white male-dominated environment and here I was, this black woman from the rural area of North West Province,” she says.

“But I was accepted, and I made friends there – I am a friendly person, what can I say!”

In her second year, Beauty was named as the best

mohair student. She laughs as she describes her experience over the three years – mostly in overalls, very hands-on, and often in the mud! That is why Grootfontein College has a world-class reputation.

After her graduation, Beauty was ready to launch her career and she embarked on a short stint at the National Department of Agriculture.

After realising how much she loved training, she returned to Grootfontein College and joined the Young Professional Graduate Programme with a specific interest in training farmers in mohair and wool processes.

This involved studying every aspect of Angora goat farming – the history, the future, the shearing, classing, producing and managing the goats, including on a small stock production level.

Empowerment – what does it actually mean; how important is it; and is it working?

“The goat is a beautiful, sensitive, smart and profitable animal,” she says with her trademark big smile.

Today she is the highest technically trained woman in South Africa in her field. She pays homage to her lecturer Hans Greef for “teaching me everything I know”. And to Grootfontein College for offering her the best education opportunity.

Of course, it was inevitable that Mohair South Africa would offer her a job. This was a match made in heaven. The Mohair Empowerment Trust needed someone to run the programme and Beauty had all the experience and double the passion.

The agreement between the emerging farmers (Empowerment Trust partners) and the Trust is simple, and there is transparency in

communication and accountability on both sides.

A prerequisite is that the identified farmer must have access to land with a suitable infrastructure through the government, whether owned or rented on a long-term basis.

The partners sign an interest-free goat loan of up to 2 000 goats, consisting of kapaters, ewes or a combination, and the cost of these goats is covered by the contractual sale of mohair through a recognised broker over a period of five years.

The emerging farmer needs to commit to making a financial input to ensure a sustainable farming operation, covering the costs of basic farming supplies such as dips, doses and shearing requisites. And the Trust is committed to provide ongoing support.

Beauty currently supports 10 emerging farmers, with 17 beneficiaries. This includes access to vets, field agents from brokers, financial management and ongoing practical education.

It is also imperative to teach the farmers about the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) – an internationally recognised industry standard – which enables the farmers to pass the RMS Audit on animal welfare, human resource and other vital practices.

Beauty explains: “It’s my job to ensure that these farmers get the full picture and the constant support necessary to turn them into responsible and superb farmers.”

She visits the farmers regularly, or when they need her, and it is imperative for her to support them during kidding and shearing periods.

“I make them bankable and give them the responsibility to take care of the goats so that the goats can take care of them.”

So how is it working on the ground, on the farms?

Ayanda Mehlo, who studied agriculture at Nelson Mandela University in Port Elizabeth, is an exemplary example. Although he has been on the (now state-owned) Krantzkloof farm since 2009, before the Empowerment Trust partnership, he describes himself as

a business leader and an entrepreneur.

After his studies, he spent seven years running a few informal businesses in a township (one of them was a very successful sweetselling enterprise) before answering an advertisement asking for potential farmers to utilise and farm government land.

He attributes his successful appointment to the sharp business skills he learnt in the township job and his passion for farming.

“The farm was in a bad way, and I spent my hard-earned cash upgrading the facilities – it was tough and there was no support from the government,” he says.

He heard about Beauty and the Empowerment Trust, and after a conversation and a meeting with her, he realised he needed to upskill, having never farmed Angora goats before.

So before they signed the agreement, he spent a year learning as much as he could about the mighty goats. When he felt worthy of the project, 567 goats found a new home with Ayanda.

“I have just had my first kidding season – I am like a new parent –so excited and proud,” he beams.

Ayanda is passionate about empowerment.

“It does not mean a handout. It’s the opposite,” he says. “It means standing up to this responsibility and learning as much as I can. I need to work for my opportunity and yes, that means struggle is inevitable, but that’s how I learn.”

He is ardent about this. And Beauty is there every step of the way. Constant communication, total transparency and real-life support are what make this relationship work.

Mohair South Africa was spot on in employing her.

“The RMS is critical to our success,” Ayanda continues. “It makes us better and sharper, and that then makes us farmers proud. It is about doing the right thing every time.”

His attitude is evident on his farm. It’s neat and green, thanks to the Fish River water availability during this challenging drought,

Ayanda Mehlo, Krantzkloof Farm, Somerset East

and full of life with these newly born kids. And he is indeed a proud father! I watch him kneel down to gently check in on one of the kids.

With a wide grin, he explains: “I carry the lives of eight other farmworkers who are in my employ. They are on my shoulders and that is a privileged responsibility. I love the way my life has turned out and it is with immense gratitude to Mohair SA.”

Further down the road, on Driefontein Farm, is another partner, Lloyd James. He has 739 goats through the Empowerment Trust and they are also kidding. He, too, is emotional about his first season.

“I didn’t know much about Angora goats when I started, but I have learned so much through the support from Beauty and the Trust,” Lloyd says. “I love learning. I love reading and watching YouTube to enhance my ever-increasing knowledge.”

He has farming in his blood. His father worked on a mohair farm as a farmworker, and as a child, he used to help and learn from him.

“My father taught me the value of hard work and the way of the land. My mother taught me resilience and the value of money. I once asked her for a new pair of Nike shoes, and she sent me straight to work – no new shoes in sight!”

It was through meeting the previous Driefontein owner, Dale Cunningham, that his farm became available for change of ownership.

Dale guided Lloyd through the lengthy process of change and, once the deal was signed, left him with 100 goats as a startup.

“Dale was so kind and patient,” he recalls. “We created a thorough business plan together and today he is still my mentor. We are in constant contact.”

Lloyd admits that he struggled a lot during those first few years and that it all changed when he met Beauty and became part of the Empowerment Trust.

“They took me out of a hole where things were not great in my life and they gave me a way forward. I will always be grateful. My future is now bright.”

He is in daily contact with Beauty. They have, like Ayanda, become friends. There is also solid support from the neighbouring farmers who, too, have become friends.

“It’s like Beauty is here all the time with me on this farm, even when she isn’t! She keeps me focused and keeps me encouraged. Being a farmer is not easy,” he says with a wide smile.

The greatest challenge at the moment is the drought, but Lloyd is a devout Christian and believes that the rain will come. He has faith in abundance.

“I love what I do with my whole heart. Working with animals gets me closer to God. It is humbling to farm. It is what I was born to do. It keeps me grounded.”

Through the profits from the shearing, he was able to put his daughter through university. She graduated this year and his pride is palpable.

He is looking to buy a second farm as his 15-year-old son is showing promise and an interest in farming.

Once the five-year period of the Empowerment Agreement is up, Lloyd wants to mentor new empowerment farmers to continue this project. He desperately wants to give back, he says, so that he can pay it forward.

This is true empowerment. Not lip service, not actionless promises. This is the real deal.

The mohair industry is in good hands, being passed down from an older generation to a newer type generation – one that is filled with solid, humble, curious and grateful farmers who are forming the foundation of sustainable and successful farming practices.

The Beauty of Empowerment indeed.

Sindile Lloyd James, Driefontein Farm, Somerset East

The Dye is Cast

and her name is Alice (The Story of Alice and SIL)

Sandy Coffey

In order for mohair to be successfully dyed, it needs a few critical components to change the flavour of the fibre – from old to new, from raw to colour and from one thing to another. It needs hot water, chemicals and a vessel in which to hold that fibre. And there’s no turning back once the process begins.

This, I think, is much like Alice Connacher’s journey into the mohair industry.

As a young child, Alice would delight in accompanying her (maverick industry leader) father, Rob, to his offices. She would play in the factory, jump on the bales of wool, inhale the smell of natural fibre and listen in on Rob’s conversations with global partners and leaders.

She came home filthy from the wool. She would absorb everything because somewhere deep inside of her the passion for raw fibre was awakened and at that ripe young age, she knew she wanted to be in the industry.

As history would have it, it took a journey of deviations and potholes to get there, but get there she has!

She doesn’t like to describe herself as an innovator, but her story begs otherwise.

When she left school, she wanted to join the family business but circumstances at the time didn’t allow for that. Not one for missing a beat, she decided to study law instead and within a few years qualified with a BA LLB.

Mike Nurse Attorneys in Port Elizabeth promptly employed her

and it was during her tenure there that she absorbed as much as she could about commercial law.

“I was lucky to have been given work usually reserved for senior attorneys and so I expanded my knowledge rapidly,” she says.

Four years later, armed with her specialised experience, she left to join a Russian company in Amsterdam as their commercial lawyer, and it was here that her exposure to European and Russian cultures would positively influence her.

“I learnt strategy from the Russians, to be direct from the Dutch, and intellect and sophistication from the Europeans!” she adds.

Those four years proved to be specifically formative and have contributed to her skillset essential to her current role.

Alice shifted gears at a rapid rate when she decided to leave the Russian company and start her own legal consultancy online in the Netherlands.

At that stage it was rare to go purely digital and, much to the surprise of some of her peers, she excelled in this role. Her confidence and sense of self-worth grew, and she felt she had arrived at the front door of her life.

Despite this success and excitement, Alice knew deep down that her passion for South Africa and the mohair industry had only increased with time, and it took a phone call from her dad to begin the process of returning to SA.

At first her role was minimal and still based in the Netherlands, but gradually it became apparent to both her and her dad that she

needed to move home.

“We began working together, side by side, and I was like a sponge, watching and listening to everything he had to offer,” she recalls. “He is a legend in the industry, and I am so grateful he threw me in the deep end much of the time.”

Because the family business was primarily wool-based and realising that she knew very little about the mohair industry, she jumped in and began formal training with the brokers, House of Fibre.

“They welcomed me with open arms for an entire year and I have to thank Pierre van der Vyver and Sandile Nzuza for giving up their time to allow me to immerse myself in their business.”

She learnt fast. Pierre shared this about her.

“Alice was a very likeable person and, from the word go, very interested in what we were doing, an eager learner without being a nuisance or intrusive.

“She immediately took an interest in the personnel and cared what was happening in the warehouse. For example, she provided our guard dog a nice (expensive!) new mohair blanket to sleep on in the cold winter nights. That shows how caring and special she is.”

When dots are connected backwards, one can see how each turning point for Alice, contributed to her preparation for her role today – that of becoming the first female mohair buyer in South Africa.

She is quick to point out that she isn’t comfortable with that title – that it is about the person and not the gender. And she would rather focus on the person who took the risk to employ and empower her.

Enter Andrew Seal. SIL Holdings (in the UK) is a large thirdgeneration, family-owned business, specialising in textiles, fibres and fabrics.

It sources natural fibres from worldwide origin markets and sells them to bespoke clients who are involved in processing,

manufacturing and tailoring the finest fabrics or finished garments. The end product can be seen in the clothing finery offered by a few luxury brands – from a humble goat, to the garments worn by the rich and famous!

SIL Holdings was looking for an exclusive buyer and a chance discussion with one of Andrew’s tenants, who knew Alice, led to a simple WhatsApp conversation between Andrew and Alice.

This paved the way for them to forge ahead with the possibility and eventuality of Alice becoming the SIL Holdings mohair buyer. This modern-day contract was concluded on WhatsApp!

Alice is humbled by the opportunity that Andrew and SIL Holdings have given her. The company opened the door with its belief and confidence in her and she has walked firmly through it into a courageous, new world.

“It was her intelligence, her insatiable curiosity and her family history and values that persuaded me to take a chance on her,” Andrew says. “She is up against some tough competition, but she has good people behind her and supporting her.”

Both cite trust and clarity in communication as key elements of their successful relationship. They have still to meet in person! As soon as COVID restrictions are lifted, Andrew will make his way to have tea with Alice.

The support for Alice was clearly evident after her first auction (online), a nerve-wracking experience where she received numerous positive messages from her peers.

She has formed great relationships with the brokers, probably because she is authentic, clear and direct. And trustworthy.

“I know people are rooting for me and that feels good,” she says. She has formed great relationships with the brokers, probably because she is authentic, clear and direct. And trustworthy. Something she attributes to her father’s high principles and values.

Alice is quick to add that support from Ivan Smith (Non- executive director at Mohair SA) has been so helpful on the buying side, and he is always willing to give advice when needed.

Her legendary father, Rob, acknowledges that Alice has entered a difficult industry, no matter what gender you are.

“She always had an insatiable curiosity for raw fibres, despite my initial reticence in her getting involved,” he says. “But she kept pestering me and it paid off.

“She has the personality and character for this – she is singleminded and focused, and nothing can stand in her way if she wants something.”

He sounds like a proud father.

Alice doesn’t have a five-year plan – “I take what is in front of me today and make something out of it”.

She loves what she does. You can see that from the way she speaks and the energy she shows when she talks about it.

So what is in the fibre of Alice Connacher? For one, she is an innovator. Nothing is impossible, it seems. She dives right into that vessel with no safety net.

She has the ability to focus with laser-like speed, which she says “is the reason why she learns quickly”.

Yes, she admits that she has made mistakes, but knows that each mistake is a learning opportunity.

“I go into every meeting knowing that every person present will be able to teach me something,” she says.

I ask Alice if being a woman in this industry has been challenging. Quite the opposite, she says.

She believes there is much room for diversity and development, and it’s because of the empowerment strategy of a few industry leaders that gender is not the defining factor in any employment opportunity. Each person is employed on merit, no matter what their status is.

SIL Holdings recently won an award in the UK for employing the most female directors.

“It was never about Alice being a woman,” Andrew says. “It was about employing the person based on skills and character. We believe in the right person for the job, and she has a great appetite for the business.”

House of Fibre, too, has advanced in empowering women.

General manager Pierre van der Vyver explains: “We are very proud of the fact that we are one of the only brokers with a proper succession plan, and we go out of our way to canvas the best people for the job and still keep the racial and gender balance of our technical team correct.”

Alice is certainly hanging with the right crowd!

So, once the dye is set in that huge vessel, there is no looking back. No turning back.

Alice Connacher is living proof of this.

Connacher Wool & Mohair trusted in textiles since 1971

Davey Herold, Looking back

Linda Henderson

“Davey has a different way of thinking. He can turn a subject upside down and inside out and look at it differently. He seems to be able to anticipate consequences, flaws and implications of decisions ahead of others, and is always two steps ahead of the flock. And that is a gift,” says Eileen, Davey’s wife. There are not many married men who would qualify for that recognition and accolade from their spouses, but given the often difficult but wise counselling he gave during his tenure as chairman of the Mohair Trust from 2012 to 2019, having chaired no less than 55 meetings during an often rocky road of mohair fortunes, the credit is demonstrably deserved.

His roots

Davey heralds (pardon the pun!) from Graaff-Reinet in the Karoo and has small stock genes in his veins that stretch back to his greatgrandfather.

“I took the reins of the farm over from my dad in 1976 when his health started failing,” says Davey.

“Mohair was selling at R6.00 per kg, up from 60 cents per kg four years earlier. This was during a period perceived to be a boom for the industry. Little did I know what the future would hold.”

“Sid Fitzhenry and I attended the IMA congress in Harrogate in 1978 during the boom years and listened with interest to how everyone in the long chain of mohair-processing complained that the link in the chain ahead of them was making more money.

“As producer observers, we came home with stars in our eyes and great expectations of the golden highway ahead of us.

“I give great credit to our predecessors, who had the foresight to start the Stabilisation Fund, which was approved in the early 1970s.

“A statutory levy of 5% was introduced. Mr Tony Hobson, who was the chairman of the Mohair Board at the time, initiated the concept, which was instrumental in underpinning the sales prices of the clip.

“There was a perception then that the Bradford mohair fraternity, who bought most of their stock from South Africa, were selling our mohair forward at five times the price they were paying in South Africa.

“The Mohair Board was able to hold back five clips with the support of the Stabilisation Fund and that strategy saw prices rising from R0.60 to R6.00 per kg in a short space of time.”

The way it was

“Back then I was a young farmer and I focused on the production side of mohair. I was disillusioned by the internal mohair politics of the day and vowed not to get involved after attending Congress in 1990.”

Davey is known as a man who speaks his mind and loves the challenges of debate. Although he vowed never to become involved in the management of the industry, his arm was twisted

by some who knew of his tenacity for answers and his persistency in finding solutions to difficult issues.

“I eventually agreed to make myself available for the Mohair Trust,” he says.

“The Trust was financing the local industry, but it stood at an arm’s length from the decision-making process of the various bodies whose budgets it had to approve.

“It seemed untenable to approve budgets without having insight into the real need for the requests or to prioritise the needs of the industry.”

At that stage, the chairmen of the three producer-elected bodies had never sat around one table.

Davey joined the Mohair Trust in 2006 as a trustee and became chairman in 2012. The Trust Fund was relatively strong at the time and could buy about a year’s production to support the floor prices.

As the needs of the industry increased, and there was a period of significant growth in the portfolio, it was possible, for a while, to meet the demands of the industry.

Seeking a new order

Restructuring the industry became a focal but controversial subject. It led to several heated debates during the Mohair Congresses among those who supported the initiative, those who sought to have the fund dissolved and paid back to producers, and others who simply wanted no change.

“After a visit with David Hobson to seek senior counsel from advocate Willem van der Linde in Pretoria on an unrelated matter, the conversation led to the duties of trustees and specifically those of the Mohair Trust,” says Davey.

“It left us with no doubt that the Trust was ultimately responsible for the application and good use of the funds. It provided the necessary energy to push through with restructuring.

“It was not a popular move, but it has borne good fruit. It involved reducing the elected industry positions and blending them into a united, slimmer and more effective executive force.

“In the process we reduced the number of elected positions, saved on overheads, discontinued honorariums paid to board members and cancelled overseas trips by producers, while travel allowances and other expenses were brought in line.

“We could speak as a united industry and the various sections of

“As producer observers, we came home with stars in our eyes and great expectations of the golden highway ahead of us.”

the industry were no longer kept at arm’s length. This would not have been possible without the buy-in from other members, whose support I greatly cherished.”

Davey’s vision of the future was often challenged by producers who kicked against reform. The mantra from them often expressed the sentiment that the Trust must solve or contribute to all their challenges since the initial capital was sourced from them.

It was often challenging to remind them that the purpose of the Fund was to be used exclusively for pools and emergencies and that some way had to be found to increase the Fund.

A suggestion that the Trust Fund be boosted by reintroducing a levy to counter inflation was met with great resistance.

“The industry missed a massive opportunity when Congress opposed the repurchase of the CMW building in order to get mohair under one roof,” says Davey. “Post restructure, I am sure this would have been approved.

“We also had to deal with PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), very fortunately after we had restructured, and I’m relieved to note that the huge furore had a positive outcome.

“With the Responsible Mohair Standard in place, the industry is less vulnerable to the assaults of animal activists but cannot afford to ignore the responsibility that lies on their shoulders to produce mohair with an honest and clean reputation.”

There are, however, many highlights that Davey remembers with gratitude.

Celebrating the new order

“My tenure as the Empowerment Trust’s inaugural chairman brought many rewards,” he says.

“We were able to scrap all the old training initiatives and handouts which were not sustainable and replaced the programme by aiming to establish one commercial farmer per year. This has borne great fruit and has been a success story that the industry can be proud of.”

Another moment of satisfaction was the resolution by SAWAMBA (SA Wool and Mohair Buyers Association) to contribute funds to the industry. Up to that point the Mohair Trust was funded by contributions from the producers only. Its buy-in has certainly augmented the Trust spend.

Restructuring finally allowed all the industry bodies to consult

around the same table to communicate matters in the interest of mohair at large. The unveiling of the new building symbolised a new vision of cooperation and fortitude for the future.

The writer is left with the impression that some of the original disappointment at losing the bid to secure the CMW building as headquarters for the industry was quelled when the brand-new mohair building was unveiled in 2016.

In his opening address at the event Davey is quoted as saying: “Today is an important date for our industry. We are excited to welcome clients and visitors alike to experience the mohair brand at a whole new level.”

This was a dream that he had cherished and was fortunate to witness.

Davey ended his tenure as an executive of the industry in 2019, but he has not parked his farming boots under the bed yet.

“No! There is still some fight left in me and I aim to reach my peak at 75!” he exclaims.

“I am grateful for the years that I spent as an executive in the industry despite my reluctance at the beginning. I have learnt many lessons on this journey.

“One is that age leads to risk-aversion. I was elected to the Trust at the age of 52 and I have achieved a lot more by having younger producers joining the Trust. Often their idealism and energy are needed to counter the reservations of the older generation.

“A combination of experience and youthful idealism is a good recipe for decision-making. I would like to see trustees come on to the Trust at 50 and move off soon after 60.”

In the present light of global uncertainty and undeniable forces of change, this outlook is a rare commodity that should be nurtured by the industry.

He has left a memorable footprint that needs to be filled with big shoes.

This was a dream that he had cherished and was fortunate to witness.

Cobus de Klerk passes the baton Linda Henderson

Ireflect on the magic of water as Cobus de Klerk and I stand gazing over the verdant pivot on his farm near Mortimer on the banks of the Fish River on the Orange River water scheme. The green seems to mock the drought that has pestered the Eastern Cape for the past six years.

“Yes, these have been challenging years but fortunately the price of mohair has allowed us to keep our heads above water,” says Cobus. “I’ve always believed that Angora goats do well in this area and that if you look after them, they will take care of you too.”

Cobus should know. He has dedicated a large portion of his life to the interests of the industry and must rank as the only producer who, in his 40 years as a member of SAMGA, missed just one annual congress.

He always made himself available to serve the interests of his fellow farmers and has an illustrious record of service that was often performed without fanfare or glory.

As his tenure draws to a close, Cobus reflects on the position.

“The time has come for me to hand over the reins. We all have a season to come and a season to go. I think it’s time for a younger man to take the race further,” he says with a touch of nostalgia.

“My journey with goats has been a long, but rewarding one. I’ve met people and been to places that I might otherwise not have done.”

Where it all started

There’s a classic black and white dogeared photograph that was once printed in the Journal. It depicts a small white-haired, barefoot boy in a homemade wagon being pulled by two Angora goats.

The driver? None other than Cobus!

When reminded of the incident, he chortles: “You see, I had to

learn to drive a mohair cart at a young age!”

However, Cobus truly cut his teeth on fibres when he started his career as a young post-matric student, first in the wool stores of FCU, then BSB blending and binning wool and mohair for the sales. After completing a two-year agriculture diploma at Glen College, Cobus spent more time in the wool and mohair stores before he embarked on his farming career.

“I learnt from the best,” he muses. “Walter Kirkman and Flip Viviers were masters in a class of their own, and I gathered great wisdom that I took with me on my farming career.”

He started on Sandheuwels in 1981 and has built up a successful mixed small stock farming operation. He is in an extremely fortunate position to have water rights that can support his enterprise – a rare commodity in the Karoo! Also counting in his favour is that he has a successor, his son Barend, to continue building on the foundation he has laid.

“You know, after almost 40 years of farming, during which time I served the industry for a cumulative period of 29 years in various positions, it’s the people who crossed my path that I’ll miss the most,” he says.

“As a young farmer, I experienced the leadership of the likes of uncle Arthur Hobson, Henfred Coetzer, Bert Henderson, Gielie Grobler, Francois Froelich, Philip Stucken and many others who left a strong impression on me.

“Sadly many of the old order are not with us anymore, but their legacy remains. I also think of the likes of Sydney Lee, Peter Cawood, Clive van Hasselt, Barries Snyman and several others. These guys were synonymous with Angora goats and all left a piece of themselves to the industry.

“‘Oom’ Gielie Grobbelaar, as he was known then, for instance,

gave me valuable advice when I took over the chair at SAMGA.

“Never arrive at a meeting without being fully prepared and informed, know your constitution, and don’t get angry during a meeting, he said. This was indeed valuable advice during my tenure. There were one or two stormy meetings where I needed to remind myself of his wisdom!

“But life also had its lighter moments and I remember with great humour the fun we had at annual mohair meetings like the congresses or the mohair ram sales when we had opportunities to socialise.

“Years ago the first Mohair Congress was held at the Sydenham Hotel in North End, then still a very upmarket venue. I remember all the fun we, as young delegates, had with the more senior and esteemed farmer delegates. The mayor’s party was a good incentive to rile the older folk with our pranks!”

The old vs the new

“There was a period during which the different industry arms operated as independent bodies, each with their own set of goals and budgets. It was a system that we inherited from the leaders before us, but it had the effect that we were not planning with a united vision.”

Before Mohair South Africa embarked on a marketing function, it was suggested that SAMGA use its budget to promote mohair production. Aksie Angora was mandated to start awareness campaigns that included information days, flock competitions and shows.

Among others the tasks included the planning of a successful expo in Beaufort West in 1999 and later in Graaff-Reinet, Cradock and Port Elizabeth.

“I recall the tented venue at the beachfront in Port Elizabeth where thousands of locals came face to face with Angora goats for the first time,” says Cobus.

“In the archives there are some stunning photos of goats on the rocks with the waves crashing behind them.

“Besides the goats, I also seem to recall a sexy bather in the background of the photo who probably got more attention than she deserved,” he chuckles.

“To further incentivise mohair production, NAMPO seemed like the most obvious platform to encourage new producers, and I remember the great annual trek to Bothaville with our goats and marketing paraphernalia.

“As a team, we had great fun and the exposure did much to promote our fibre. Today there is a SAMGA branch in Wolmaransstad with members from Brits, Hartswater, Bronkhorstspruit and Wesselsbron, and we believe NAMPO was the inspiration.

“On looking back I realise that, like any other industry, we had our good times and our challenging times. But somehow we managed to overcome the difficult years and have moved on to a whole new order where mohair interests are decided and discussed around a united industry platform, and that is progress.

“I think one of the turning points in the way the industry operated started during the tough years between 2012 and 2015 when the Mohair Leaders Council was convened and the chairmen of the growers, the Trust and MSA were sanctioned to hold emergency meetings to discuss matters of importance to the industry.

“It’s my opinion that that was where the seed for the new dispensation was planted.

“This was evident when the PETA debacle happened. We stood together as an industry, analysed our shortcomings and instituted measures to save our fibre’s reputation.

“It was a painful process, but it was inevitable. RMS has created a safety net that is, in retrospect, a necessary tool for dealing with a market that is so prone to criticism by animal activists.

“I’m happy to leave the reins in the command of the newly structured industry where the top-heavy executive body was significantly trimmed. We have some very exciting young leaders waiting in the wings and I’m convinced that they will be nurtured by the wisdom of the more experienced minds in the industry.”

Cobus likes to pay tribute to the executive members of SAMGA, the directors of MSA and the trustees, as well as the staff of SAMGA and MSA with whom he worked for many years.

“They were always very friendly and very accommodating, and we worked well as a team.

“I’d also like to thank my wife, Jeanette, who supported me on this long journey. Without her help, it would have been very difficult,” he concludes.

Cobus has left a fine legacy of loyalty, dependability, hard work and personal sacrifice that often went by without fanfare. I’m sure the industry has not seen the last of the man from Mortimer but wishes him well on the next chapter of his life.

SAMGA service record:

Cobus de Klerk

» Executive: 1991-2020

» Vice-chairman: 2002-2004; 2008-2013

» Chairman: 2013-2016; 2018-2020

» Executive of the Trust: 2015-2020

We believe that shared knowledge, a vigorous commitment to continuous improvement, progressive, ethical and sustainable attitudes alongside financial discipline, are critical ingredients for the future success of the mohair industry.

SUSTAINABLE RESPONSIBLE VERSATILE

For natural, versatile & quality tops, yarns & products, visit www.mohair.co.za

A struggle for one, A struggle for all – but the rain will come Sandy

As I drive into Roelfie van der Merwe’s farm, I am struck by the neatness and order which dominates his landscape. It’s a hot day, and on arrival, he and his wife, Marche, offer me some freshly (home)made cookies and cool drink. I can’t help but notice that his dress code is as neat as his farm.

We are here to talk about the drought. Extreme and widespread, this drought that has persisted for the last eight years. In this Aberdeen region of South Africa, the annual rainfall historically is 300-350mm per annum, and this year, they have had just short of 75mm of rain. The rainy season is typically from August to February, and today, in September, there is no sign nor prediction of any respite.

Coffey

“It’s heartbreaking,” says Roelfie. “Seasons of drought and nourishment are part of a farmers’ life, we know that, but this one has been particularly brutal.” The veld will need a long time to bounce back – it needs 50mm to start to replenish – anything more than that in one rainfall will wash the topsoil away. After that initial 50mm is absorbed, then a lot more consistent rain over a long period will be necessary to get the farm back to its former state. Right now, Roelfie has to bring in 100% of his feed, which amounts to around 2500 kgs per day. It’s expensive and there is no support from Government.

Furthermore, the emotional impact on him and his family is real. He is quick to point out that the farmers help each other. “This drought has revealed great generosity of spirit. The tougher

it gets out there, the closer we all stay. We are a proud bunch, but we are a kind bunch. We look after each other – and the support we get from our local farmers association and Agri EC is deeply appreciated.

Marche tells us he is the pillar of strength for friends and family. “He tries to keep everyone positive and is a beacon of hope.” She is tangibly proud of him. They met at a 4x4 gathering in Graaf-Reinet, and it was love at first sight! “My first gift from him was droewors, and the second was a pair of mohair socks!”

I ask Roelfie how he copes when things really seem hopeless. “We are lucky our marriage is very strong. We have each other. We have land. We have healthy children, and we have God. I have no idea how faithless people survive emotionally.” Marche adds, “When he is down, I am strong, and when I am down, he is strong. We fill in for each other. And we pray together as a family. That is how we survive.” This is faith in its purest form.

There is a quiet acceptance in Roelfie. He tells us, “We are in the middle of God’s creation. This is just a season we are in, and it’s a dry one. We have to trust God’s wisdom that everything is as it should be. Seasons change, and it is our job to take the lessons and learn from them.”

On a day to day basis, farming practices continue. Roelfie wakes up a 5 am to feed the goats and check that the goats and kids

are safe. It’s winter, and it’s cold, so they need caring. He carries a stomach tube in his vehicle with a litre of lukewarm milk so he can feed any needy kids on the run. Often Marche and their two children will assist – it’s a family circle of love. His son will take over the farm and is learning as much as he can. The advice Roelfie received from his Dad and the same advice he gives to his son is: “A good farmer is always amongst and between his animals,” he smiles. Weeber Truter is another farmer scathed by this drought. He has been on his farm “Trutersdale” near Oudtshoorn for 40 years – the farm he was born on. “I have never experienced such a bad drought,” he says. “But I sense it’s changing. We have had a little more rain this year than last year, so things are looking up.”

I am struck by the strength, hope and faith that is evident – it’s against all odds. And in this is a deep sense of gratitude. “I am lucky,” says Weeber. “I have had so many blessings – I have been able to educate my children, I am still healthy, and I am more fortunate than most.”

“ Seasons change, and it is our job to take the lessons and learn from them”

He worries about his wife, Tina. “The wives struggle more. They shoulder the burden. It’s not an easy job. It can be lonely, and the closest shop could be 200 km away. They are strong women and the backbone of any farm.”

He, too, has a deep faith. “This is all in the Bible. It is no surprise. It’s a 7-year drought, and it is nature. A cycle of life and nature (with God) always sorts itself out.”

I can see that Weeber is a man who lives close to the earth. He tells me he doesn’t check a rain gauge. He takes out his spade and checks the levels of moisture in the soil. That tells him everything he needs to know.

To get a full picture of the impact of this devastating drought, I have a conversation with Sias Reynolds. He farms near Beaufort West with Angora goats and merino’s. He has been farming for ten years, most of them dry. He counts himself lucky as he thinks he has more resources in the form of irrigated pastures and a structured grazing system. Allen Sayvory’s holistic management system implemented by his father, Louis, allows the veld to rest for longer periods inbetween grazing. I ask him about climate change. “The Karoo has always been water scarce. It may be global warming, but we will always have dry season cycles. Yes, this one is more harsh, but the earth will correct itself. This is farming.”

He rents all the land he farms and tries to use the drought to his

advantage constantly looking for opportunities to expand. This gives him access to more veld and hopefully getting rain on some of the land. He says: “I cannot allow myself to think to much about the drought. That will only have a negative impact on my positive outlook. I know I am an optimist – but we are always one day closer to rain!”

It’s been an interesting day for me. Both heartbreaking and uplifting. It is tough out there, but somehow, the resilience and faith of these farmers and the love and support they share with their families and the community is watertight.

I ask Roelfie what he will do when the rain finally comes.

“I will get on my knees and pray. And then I will dance in the beautiful rain with my family! – It WILL come soon.”… “The rain will come tomorrow!”.

It’s time to leave the farm. I say goodbye and get in the car to make my way back to the city. I glance back and wave with hearty vigour. But he doesn’t see that – he is too busy scanning the sky for signs of rain.

“A good farmer is always amongst and between his animals”

The Livestock Photographer, Gerda Hayward, Newlands Farm

It’s a cool day. Autumn. You wrap your blanket around your shoulders and feel the smooth warmth it provides. You pull it a bit closer – because it is so soft and comforting.

A gorgeous model struts down the runway in Milan. She is adorned with the latest creation from a famous designer. It feels silky, lustrous, classy and trendy.

Both are made from mohair.

From the humble Angora goat – born, bred and shed in the Eastern Cape of South Africa – the unique characteristics of mohair make it irresistible – wrinkle and moisture resistant, extremely durable, lightweight, flame retardant, anti-bacterial and possessing an outstanding lustre and shine. Quite simply, mohair is sublime.

From farm to fashion, the entire process is one of love, passed from one set of hands to another, each step closer to the beautiful, finished product.

Just how does it all weave together? Let’s begin with history.

In 1838 the sultan of Turkey sent 12 neutered Angora rams and one ewe to Port Elizabeth, South Africa. Wanting to protect his country’s powerful monopoly in the mohair trade, the sultan ensured that all rams were rendered infertile.

Unbeknown to anyone, the ewe was already pregnant and gave birth to a ram kid en route to South Africa. The rest is history.

Today approximately 800 000 goats in South Africa produce in excess of 2-million kilograms of mohair annually. And 50% of the world’s mohair comes from the Karoo region in South Africa.

The journey from goat to garment begins with the hands of the farmers and their farmworkers.

A good farmer is always among his animals. They get to know the goats, understand the goats, and make sure that the goats are healthy and well cared for. Farming with Angora goats requires

Hands behind the fibre

Sandy Coffey

dedication and nurturing, and a hands-on approach.

When the goats’ hair is long enough, it’s time for shearing. And it’s a BIG deal. It’s organised and it requires hard work.

There are two general shearing seasons – January to March and August to October – although this changes per region, according to rainfall and temperature.

Shearing a goat by hand requires a specialised skillset. The safety of the goats and of the shearers is a priority. The shearers use either hand shears or electric clippers and undergo intensive training as an industry standard.

Once shorn the greasy hair is classed into nine different types over the three different goat age categories – kid, young goat and adult.

This is where the meticulous skill of visually analysing and feeling the hair is critical, so that it’s classed correctly. Once classed, they are baled, weighing in at 180kg per bale when full. That is a lot of hand power!

From the farm, these bulging bales are delivered to the brokers who present them for auction.

There are 14 busy and competitive auctions each year and the buyers bid and buy the mohair according to their international and local clients’ needs.

A good buyer will know and understand the feel, texture and quality of the fibre. This careful analysis is possible after many hours of learning about the fibre through the intricate senses of touch and feel.

After the buyers have purchased the fibre, those bales are delivered to a processing mill where the greasy mohair is washed, scoured and combed into tops, which rid the hair of vegetable matter and impurities.

To see how it all fits together, I visit one of these mills – a Stucken Group company, Gubb & Inggs in Uitenhage.

We are met by factory superintendent Neil Vermaak, who takes us around. He has been with Gubb & Inggs since 2009 and it’s his job to make sure that this process is seamless. It’s a challenging function but Neil loves it.

“We encounter new challenges every day and I love finding the solutions,” he says.

He is especially proud of the fact that mohair is a green fibre.

“It is biodegradable and after its life has come to an end, the fibre returns to the soil – the circle completes,” he smiles.

The tops are then spun into a yarn according to customer specifications. The structure and the thickness (yarn count) can be twisted or raised for a fluffy brushed appearance.

Interestingly enough, the purified lanolin by-product from this part of the process is used in face creams, soaps and ointments. This industry doesn’t like to waste.

Our famous mohair tops are now ready to be sold and exported internationally, or are retained in South Africa to be spun into yarns Stucken Yarns production manager Lynette Mabandla is passionate about her job.

“I work closely with the plant manager to ensure that the flow, quality standards and upkeep of the factory is flawless. Giving our customers the best quality every time is of utmost importance to us and the company.”

I can see how this translates – the factory is spotless.

There are many hands involved in this process and it’s a busy place, full of activity – checking the machinery, loading the yarn, and weighing and packing the finished product.

“I learn something new every day – it never gets boring,” she says.

I see she is wearing a brightly coloured mohair scarf on this cool day.

Onto the dyeing process and it’s fascinating. Because mohair is a protein fibre, colour tints are absorbed beautifully into its fibre, giving it a rich and long-lasting hue.

We walk into a busy dyeing room where there are all sorts of interesting smells and sounds. I watch the fibre going around and around in the vessel, hungrily absorbing the colour, sending me into a trance.

Dye House manager John McNair is busy with his day. He says life in the House is hectic, always, but after 40 years in the industry, he is used to it.

In the adjacent room there is an interesting colour laboratory, full of small bottles of dyes, where lots of experiments are conducted to ensure that the colours are specific and correct. Every step needs to be perfect.

Once dyed the yarn can either be exported for knitting and weaving internationally or sent to a local weaving mill for

A good buyer will know and understand the feel, texture and quality of the fibre.

manufacturing fabric according to the specs of the client.

And this is where the beautiful fibre enters the world of design!

Mandy Erasmus, who is the textile design co-ordinator at the Hinterveld Weaving Mill, tells me a bit about her job.

“I have a terrific part to play in this whole process. I get to work with international fashion design houses who need very specific fabrics and colours, and together we create the fabric to spec and weave the rolls of fabric, ready for the designers to create their magic.

“I get to touch this fibre every working day of my life.”

Her job includes researching trends, selection of the yarns, translating these designs to the weaving looms, labelling them and making sure of confidentiality so that fashion houses trust that their specific design is unique.

I ask her why mohair is so special.

“Oh my goodness, where do I start? Well, for one it’s anti-bacterial. It’s strong and durable and has amazing lustre and brilliance.”

I think she could be describing herself!

She works closely with Hinterveld production manager Victor Cummings. He supervises the conversion of yarn into fabric, chasing 100% customer satisfaction. It is imperative that he avails the product at the right time, with the right quality and quantity!

There is a lot to this and I ask him how he does it.

“Communication and transparency is key amongst us staff. It is my job to make sure that we are all kept informed about everything.”

Both of them use their hands when they talk about their jobs, underlining their enthusiasm.

The onsite Hinterveld shop, a short walk down the hall, is bursting with colour and texture. There are scarves, blankets, beanies, gloves, socks, jerseys, wraps and even a rug or two. The offering is huge and the prices appetising.

I see a customer gently pick out a blanket. She pulls it against her skin and closes her eyes. She is in another world. Later I see her at the checkout. She’s holding that blanket, a scarf and a wrap!

I take a few minutes to marvel at this mohair – how a humble goat can keep on producing hair and, through this intricate process, ends up keeping us warm and comfortable and stylish.

Whether on the catwalks of Europe or in the homes of loyal consumers, mohair has made its mark in the textile world.

It has arrived at the forefront of sustainability through the implementation of the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) and is continuously working towards ethical consumerism.

So it’s because of those farms in the mohair-producing regions, because of those intelligent goats, right through the hardy journey, step by step, to when we finally feel the soft finished garment against our skin that we get to appreciate the magic of mohair.

This is possible because of the many skilled, experienced and loving hands behind the fibre, which are continuously hard at work.

...mohair has made its mark in the textile world.

The Future of Responsible Mohair Farming in South Africa

The year 2020 has been classified by the United Nations as the year that ‘green jobs’ really took off.

Green jobs cover not only new positions, but also existing ones that have been modified to include an environmental perspective across countries and industries.

According to the United Nations, green jobs are occupations across a variety of sectors that contribute decisively to preserving or restoring environmental quality.

Coincidentally, the year 2020 was also a significant ‘green’ year for the South African Mohair Industry with the release of the global Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) by Textile Exchange, driven by global brand and retailer demand.

The question on everyone’s lips remains, is the RMS, in its current form, enough to meet future global brand sourcing goals, or do we need to do more and to what end?

Unpacking that question, much like sustainability, is a journey, and certainly one which no-one yet fully comprehends or has mastered. Entire industries across a myriad of sectors are walking this journey together, hand in hand, and with each new learning leading to even bigger and more relevant questions.

Critically, the first and most important step, is the acknowledgment that we, as members of the mohair industry value chain, hold the responsibility to work together and to take action to ensure we continue meeting market sourcing criteria and, more specifically, actively play our part in striving towards a more sustainable planet.

Sustainability cannot be seen as a finite project with a beginning

and an end. So, to answer the question, is the RMS enough as it stands?

For a standard to achieve continued success and to reap the result it was intended for, conversations need to be open and ongoing, learning from one another and reasonably adapting practices when and where necessary.

We live in a fast-paced and ever-changing world where innovation, new technologies and sciences are uncovering new data almost hourly.

Will there be future changes to the RMS?

The purpose and desired outcomes of the RMS when it comes to animal welfare and land health will not change, but how we work towards those goals may evolve over time in a continuous improvement process.

Textile Exchange’s standard-setting process is founded on the principles of evidence-based decision-making and extensive stakeholder consultation. The mohair industry is considered a key stakeholder and is actively engaged in all conversations related to the RMS.

Brands and retailers are facing increasing pressure to back up their sustainability claims.

Consumers have become savvy and are calling out brands for greenwashing and weighing up marketing messages versus actions in practice.

Greenwashing is a term used to describe the deceptive practice of branding a company as ‘environmentally friendly’ without adopting a legitimate, sustainable operation.

Lindsay Humphreys

Regulators, advocacy groups, environmental and legal experts are paying more attention, and the pressure is on. Brands are being held accountable for setting and meeting sustainability targets, which they are unable to achieve without partnerships, associations, and collaborations across the value chain and, most importantly, at farm level with producers themselves.

So why did the mohair industry adopt the global RMS by Textile Exchange and what does this mean for our future as an industry?

Having worked on the team at the forefront of the unjust South African mohair exposé, I often wonder how many realise just how close we were to complete demise.

With hundreds of brands banning mohair in just a few hours, the situation was dire, and there was a sense of urgency to respond swiftly, concisely, and with purpose. How better to engage our market than to partner with Textile Exchange?

By collaborating with Textile Exchange, the leading convenor for sustainability in the textile industry with a membership consisting of brands, retailers, suppliers, and raw material producers, we were able to engage with the entire global textile industry and regain our own voice, enabling us to tell our own unique and true story.

Through this, the mohair industry was able to make new public commitments and, in doing so, to start rebuilding our relationships with our clients, once again making us an integral part in a globally responsible and trusted mohair supply chain.

The implementation of the RMS not only elevated mohair back to its rightful position at the top of the fibre market but surpassed all expectations and deservingly positioned mohair producers in the global spotlight, for all the right reasons.

Being an active participant in the Textile Exchange community has made it possible to continue engaging our market to ensure we meet global sourcing standards today, and in the future.

South Africa, being the biggest source of mohair in the world, has a responsibility to lead and set the bar for other mohairproducing countries.

In recognising this responsibility, more than ever, the global mohair industry needs to stand together and ensure innovation and sustainability needs are at the forefront of all our decisions and actions.

Our joint focus should be to tell the mohair story and build on the credentials of mohair by staying at the forefront and enabling more efficiency through exploring synergistic opportunities in our value chain.

What is next? It’s time for regenerative action!

“Regenerative agriculture describes farming and grazing practices that, among other benefits, reverse climate change by rebuilding soil organic matter and restoring degraded soil biodiversity, resulting in both carbon drawdown and improving the water cycle”. https://regenerationinternational.org/why-regenerative-agriculture/

The greatest threat to our planet is the belief that someone else will save it!

The global focus is on the urgent action that needs to be taken to ensure future generations have a world to enjoy.

The fashion industry is considered the second largest polluter in the world, just after the oil industry, and the environmental damage has been disastrous.

Each stage of the supply chain has a part to play in reducing environmental impact, but for animal-based materials, farm level production is key.

The agricultural industry, therefore, has an opportunity in the role we can play, and we are perfectly positioned to take actions that can have a proven positive impact on the future of our land while meeting our end-market goals. It’s a win-win!

Our angora goats, and the rangelands on which they roam, have provided our farmers with so much, a relationship delicately woven together and reliant on each other for life.

In support of the UN’s Decade of Restoration, it’s time to embrace the journey of land regeneration. This will enable and increase the productive capability of our farming efforts and land over several decades, making regeneration a journey of growth.

What does this mean?

The massive, global degradation of soil is one of the main environmental issues our planet is currently facing, and our endmarket is under pressure to actively implement and/or support practices and initiatives that can collectively make a difference.

In some way, every South African farmer has implemented environmental management practices on their land by the mere nature of farming in the country.

This could be through the restoration of degraded landscapes by changing herding practices, re-establishing vegetation, or excluding animals from certain camps for periods.

Rather than something totally new, regenerative action is a further development of current management with a mindset of continual improvement. One of the key outcomes will be improved soil health.

Healthy soil is a fundamental element of our ecosystem as it regulates water, provides nutrients for plants to grow, cycles nutrients and removes CO2 from the atmosphere.

Where do we start?

We can start by practising global consciousness with an open mind.

We really do have so much to gain by exploring and implementing a practical solution to measure and record the impact our farming practices have on our land, using that information to adjust our management.

There is no one size fits all and no perfect answer, but what we do know is the day is drawing near when environmental labelling will become a standard requirement when exporting mohair.

As an industry, we need to actively explore solutions, keeping a proactive approach to ensure generations beyond us continue farming successfully in South Africa. The goal is land management that delivers the environmental outcomes our buyers need, as well as positive impacts on mohair production.

Textile Exchange recently announced their 2030 Climate+ goal of 45% reduction in CO2 emissions from preferred fibre and material production, and have acknowledged that this goal cannot be achieved alone. They have called on the industry to support the engagement process and to be part of the solution.

The end goal is to identify and implement a practical, workable, regenerative solution that can form part of your RMS process.

Until then, let’s learn more and keep this conversation open.

Developments in the uptake of the Responsible Mohair Standard

The Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) continues to see widespread adoption among growers, manufacturers and brands alike.

The RMS standard, launched on March 17, 2020, aims to provide the industry with the tools to recognise the best practices of farmers and to ensure that mohair comes from farms with an advanced approach to land management, animal welfare and social responsibility.

Beyond the farm, it also aims to provide a traceability system throughout the entire value chain – from the farm to the finished product.

With RMS-certified mohair being available at auctions since the back-end of 2020, the demand for mohair has spiked. We commend the producers and all supply chain entities for their ongoing efforts to promote a sustainable mohair industry.

Furthermore, we extend our gratitude to the certification bodies for the excellent job they have done over the last year.

It is exciting to see a growing number of manufacturers and brands fast embracing the RMS and registering with the standard.

Hanna Denes, senior manager at Textile Exchange, said: “We would like to congratulate the whole mohair industry on their achievements with the implementation of the RMS.

“The engagement and commitment of the industry during the development of the standard laid a strong foundation for the release of the RMS in March, 2020.

“Despite the challenges brought by the pandemic, the rate of

adoption of the RMS has been phenomenal! We are excited to see more and more brands making commitments to the RMS and to see the first labelled products appearing on the market.”

Around 986 companies worldwide have been RMS/RWS/ RAS-certified post farm gate, including companies throughout the mohair value chain that enable RMS mohair to reach the end consumer.

With RMS-certified mohair tops entering the market approximately nine months ago, after going through the spinning, design and manufacturing processes, we are now seeing brands and retailers at the beginning stages of launching their RMS products.

The Swedish fashion house, Filippa K, was one of the first to launch RMS products online, with a few others following suit.

We are excited to watch this space grow and look forward to seeing more RMS-certified products enter the retail sector.

Adding to the international adoption of the RMS, at a production level Textile Exchange has launched a herding pilot project applicable to some of the international producing countries. The RMS was recently adopted in Australia and we are looking forward to seeing the adoption grow throughout the other mohairproducing countries.

Producing mohair ethically and sustainably is non-negotiable for the South African mohair industry and the roll-out of the RMS remains a priority.

(Images above supplied by Filippa K)

Oritain and Mohair SA partner to put SA mohair at the forefront of sustainability

Oritain and Mohair SA partner to put SA mohair at the forefront of sustainability

The year 2019 saw Mohair SA increase its commitments towards sustainable mohair by partnering with Oritain, a scientific traceability company.

As world leaders in mohair production, supplying approximately 50% of the world’s mohair to the market, it made sense to find a partner in traceability.

Oritain chief strategy officer Rupert Hodges said: “Mohair South Africa’s commitment to innovation and sustainability is vital in not only protecting this luxurious and sustainable fibre, but also in helping to drive a more innovative and sustainable industry.

“We’re incredibly pleased to be partnering with them to protect the global reputation of South African mohair and to support the wider work they’re doing.”

Oritain uses a combination of forensic science, technology and statistics to verify the origin of products and raw materials such as mohair, putting the company at the forefront of sustainability.

With the increasing consumer demands for transparency and ethical practice, having a fully traceable database fit for purpose gives manufacturers, brands and consumers insight into the content of their mohair purchases.

This enhanced traceability is robust and helps to underpin wider products claims relating to sustainable and ethical production.

“It is imperative that the mohair industry acknowledges and encourages the advancement of mohair as a fully traceable natural fibre,” said Mohair SA marketing and communications officer Siobhan Momberg. “With transparency being of crucial importance, the technology Oritain offers will enhance the industry’s future in sustainable sourcing.”

Mohair SA believes that shared knowledge and a vigorous commitment to continuous improvement, along with progressive, ethical and sustainable attitudes, play a vital role in the success of the mohair industry.

MSA’s partnership with Oritain aligns with the progressive uptake of the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) that was launched in March, 2020.

Mohair SA believes that sustainability is a journey and taking our environment, animals and people into consideration is the number one priority.

In September, 2021, Mohair SA received news that the sampling and fibre analysis testing phases had been completed. Oritain now has a fully operational fit-for-purpose database for South African mohair, which will be available to brands and retailers on request.

Incorporating scientific traceability through Oritain, we believe that the future of the mohair industry looks promising.

South African mohair makes its mark on Paris fashion ramps

South African mohair shone on one of the fashion capitals of the world in September when young designers ERRE and Lukhanyo Mdingi presented innovative collections in Paris that featured the diamond fibre from the Karoo.

Although mohair has long been used by luxury fashion houses in Europe, Asia and elsewhere, in South Africa the creative uptake has been slower.

However, with the rising influence of African design – think of Beyonce’s recent Black is King visual album and the hit Hollywood movies Wakanda and Back2America – its use is likely to rise.

Laduma Ngxokolo’s MaXhosa by Laduma label, for one, showcases South African mohair and wool extensively in his iconic knitwear designs on an international stage.

Annette Pringle-Kölsch, managing member of The Fashion Agent, has worked with several designers, including ERRE and Mdingi, who use a high percentage of mohair in their collections. The Fashion Agent is a business-to-business platform that supplies African brands to luxury goods retailers on this continent and abroad.

“Mohair is one of the best-kept secrets as even though it is such a big industry and provides a lot of jobs in South Africa, there is not a lot of awareness of it,” said Pringle-Kölsch.

“However, we do have designers like Lukhanyo and ERRE who are using it more and more. When they make a product using mohair they create more jobs, and this feeds back into the fashion industry and the economy.”

Mdingi and ERRE were in Paris for two different events but the achievements of both highlight the potential of this country’s natural produce to be used in the international world of luxury fashion.

Mohair in five words:

“Strong, honest, beautiful, long-lasting, underrated” –Lukhano Mdingi

Mdingi, who travelled to Paris as a finalist in the LVMH Prize design competition, became the joint-winner on September 7 of

the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld prize, winning €50 000 (around R835 000). It was the second European triumph of 2021 for the Cape Townbased designer, who first showed his Coutts Collection featuring mohair and wool at Pitti Uomo, the Italian menswear trade show in February.

Fashion icons such as Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs and Virgil Abloh were on the LVMH judging panel which named Mdingi as cowinner with America’s Colm Dillane and China’s Rui Zhou.

Natasha Jaume and Carina Louw are the women behind ERRE, the only South African label invited to Paris for the Africa Fashion Up show held later in September. Africa Fashion Up, a programme of Share Africa, has a vision to show the vitality of current African creativity through fashion.

ERRE exhibited their collection at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild near the Arc de Triomphe, sharing the spotlight with designers from Cameroon, Madagascar, Nigeria, Morocco and the Ivory Coast.

Let’s put SA mohair on the map

“It’s time now to put South African mohair on the map and show not only what can be done from a raw material point of view, which is very successful, but also now with the end product,” said PringleKölsch.

She said the world was ready to hear from Africa how it had been developing its mohair and fashion industries through sharing unique stories and giving a glimpse into richly diverse history and cultures.

She cited the example of another South African designer, Thebe Magugu, who won the LVMH Prize in 2019 and was more recently a top six finalist for the Woolmark Prize. Magugu also uses mohair extensively, and innovatively, in his designs.

“Thebe had so many offers after winning the LVMH prize and I’m sure Lukhanyo also will,” she said, adding that Magugu had decided to remain in this country and plough his prize-money into growing

Gillian McAinsh

his business. “When you are in the limelight as a brand like that after winning such a big prize, the pressure is huge but Lukhanyo is also very smart in his business moves, and with whom he works, and when.

He’s very mindful and is building it slowly, finding the right people to work with.”

Sustainable, ethical fashion

The young designers behind these labels are keenly aware of the move towards sustainability and ethical fashion, a drive that Mohair South Africa has also embraced with the introduction of the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS).

As Pringle-Kölsch notes, the use of sustainable natural fibres such as mohair fits into the global trend of moving back to nature, leaving a lower carbon footprint and designing garments that are part of a wider, slow, sustainable fashion environment.

“It all comes together in those positive elements,” she said, adding that designers such as Magugu, ERRE and Mdingi exemplified this.

“They have a good, and true, point of view, which ties in with honesty, sustainability and the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI).”

Mdingi, for one, was hand-picked to participate in the EFI’s Accelerator 2020 programme, which focuses on getting designers from around the world investment ready.

Mohair in five words:

“Luxurious, lustrous, sustainable, super-soft, comfortable” – ERRE

Jaume and Louw describe ERRE as a label that focuses on quality fabrics, tactility, craftsmanship and the perfect fit – which makes mohair an ideal raw material. Although they are better known for their use of leather, they are making increasing use of this fibre, thanks to its tactile qualities and ability to hold deep, rich colours.

“We fell in love with the whole process and beauty of mohair when we visited the Karoo in 2019 on a trip with Mohair South Africa,” said the duo.

“We saw the whole process from where the Angora goats walk in the fields, how they get sheared, where the fibres are sold at auction, and all the processes they go through to eventually become the beautiful mohair yarns that we use.

“All the people working in that industry were so happy and friendly, and seemed to really enjoy what they were doing, and we share their passion now as well.”

ERRE took a range of 10 garments – eight for women, two for men – to Paris for Africa Fashion Up, with their signature look of powerful silhouettes and classic, figure-flattering styles.

“We purchased mohair blankets from Hintervelt in the brightest colours that we could find and incorporated those into jackets and coats.

“We’ve also used mohair fibres to create textural details on the surface of garments as well as both machine and hand-knitting pieces from mohair,” they said of the range.

The luxurious comfort of mohair

Jaume and Louw believe South African designers need to be exposed more to the fibre, so that they can use it more.

“We wish the consumer knew how luxurious and comfortable it is to wear. Quite often, when customers use the word mohair the first thing that comes to mind is the scratchy old blankets, which is what mohair was many years ago.

“Now the fibres are so soft and comfortable to wear, and they have amazing properties like breathability and moisture wicking that people don’t know about. It’s something that you can’t really explain to them – they need to experience it.”

Mdingi launched his label in 2015 after graduating from the Cape Peninsula University of Technology and creates minimal yet luxurious looks that are distinct, powerful and refined.

He imbues his garments with cross-cultural references, using labourintensive techniques such as felting and hand knitting as well as industrial knitting.

“Our label is predominantly known for knitwear and season after season we constantly see how we can refine this,” Mdingi said.

His atelier also works with Adele’s Mohair in the Eastern Cape and Cape Town-based dye house and design studio Cowgirlblues.

“Mohair is one of those fibres you can use in any season as it regulates according to the outside temperature and also the temperature of your body. That is something quite special and unique about this particular fibre,” he said.

‘Something for the forever’

“Season after season we’re constantly looking at the essentials and refining each style, creating a timeless sensibility. Our intention is to simply create a body of work that has a sense of soulfulness to it, work of substance that is solid – something for the forever.”

Mdingi, therefore, uses mohair, and the collaborations with artisanal artists and creatives who work with its yarn, as a “bridge” between the heritage of the past and the desire for timeless fashion today.

“Mohair is part of our South African heritage and we come from a background where there’s 200 years of mohair farming.

“I don’t think people realise how much mohair we have in our country or that there are abundant opportunities for South African designers, not just through apparel but through furniture and interiors as well to use mohair.

“Having these raw materials within your country makes the end product more honest, stronger and just a lot more connected to where you come from.”

From the mohair farms of the Eastern Cape, to the catwalks of Paris, designers are sharing – and growing – the story of this lustrous diamond fibre.

Below Left : Lukhanyo Mdingi and Right : Carina Louw & Natasha Jaume

The Application of Raman Spectroscopy for Distinguishing Between Mohair and Wool

M Notayi 1,2 , AF Botha 2 and L Hunter 1

1 Nelson Mandela University, 2CSIR

INTRODUCTION

South Africa accounts for some 50% of the global production of mohair, our product being regarded as the best in the world.

Mohair is renowned for its outstanding quality characteristics, notably excellent lustre, resilience, wrinkle resistance and recovery, durability, moisture management and comfort, and low flammability.

This has resulted in a positive or superior image and prestige being associated with products having the label ‘mohair’, even more so ‘Cape or South African mohair’, and for which discerning traders and consumers are generally prepared to pay a premium.

This positive image, together with the associated premium price, has resulted in mohair being blended with other natural and/or man-made fibres to gain a price advantage and often also having the best of both worlds, this being clearly indicated on the product label.

Nevertheless, for similar reasons, certain unscrupulous operators undertake such blending with other animal fibres, such as lustre wool, but then trade illegally and label the frequently inferior product as pure mohair, thereby unfairly riding on the back of the positive reputation and image of mohair.

Because of the damage (financial losses, prestige, image, reputation) caused by such illegal practices to mohair growers, traders, processors and textile manufacturers, considerable research has been devoted towards developing methods that can reliably distinguish between different animal fibres such as mohair and lustre wool.

The one which is presently internationally the most widely accepted is based on the differences in scale height between mohair and wool (Figure 1), as measured by means of a Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) at magnifications around 25 000.

However, the SEM method is time-consuming and expensive. It requires a considerable amount of experience and proficiency by an appropriately skilled operator. Such a test typically costs around R4 000 to R5 000 in certified overseas laboratories and requires highly sophisticated instrumentation.

This has led to other potential methods to be researched, including mitochondrial DNA and lipid and amino acid (protein) analysis.

However, these also have certain drawbacks, such as complexity, cost and lack of accuracy, and none have yet received international acceptance. The SEM method is still the only internationally accepted method.

Because of the above consideration, it was considered essential to search for a less complicated and expensive method that is preferably automated.

To this end, attention was turned to spectroscopic techniques, such as RAMAN/FTIR-based analysis, due to their ease of sample preparation, speed and semi-automatic nature and their sensitivity to any differences in the chemical nature of polymers, such as wool and mohair.

The theory of Raman spectroscopy and its basic principles are explained in the book Handbook of Raman Spectroscopy (Lewis and Edwards, 2001).

EXPERIMENTAL  Materials

Approximately 50 commercially scoured pure wool from various sheep breeds (Lincoln, Romney, Buenos Aires, Corriedale, Merino and Merino-related breeds) and 50 scoured pure mohair samples from different parts of the world (Argentina, USA - Texas, Lesotho, Turkey and South Africa) have been sourced via the Council for Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR) in Port Elizabeth for use in this study.

Method

Raman spectra were collected on a Bruker RAM II FT-Raman-Module (see Figure 2). This instrument is operated at room temperature and uses a calcium fluoride beam-splitter. It is also equipped with an Nd: YAG laser, emitting at a wavelength of 1064nm, for excitation.

All spectra were recorded using a laser power of 500mW, 2 000 scans (equivalent to one hour acquisition time) with a spectral

resolution of 4cm-1 being used throughout this investigation, which produced consistent spectra of good quality.

The spectra were acquired and processed using OPUS 7.2 and Origin Lab 8.1 software packages. The spectral region of between 50 to 3 500cm-1 was selected for this investigation. No special sample preparation was involved, with 2mm thick bundles of approximately parallel fibres being inserted in the sample compartment (shown by the arrow in Figure 2) for spectral acquisition.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The FT Raman spectroscopic analysis proved once again that wool and mohair share a very similar basic chemistry, with no particular spectral feature being specific to only one fibre type (see Figure 3).

Minor Raman shifts in peak positions were observed, but were generally neither sufficient nor consistent enough to distinguish between mohair and wool as none of these shifts were consistently distinct (specific) to either fibre.

In the light of the great similarity between the wool and mohair spectra, it was decided to investigate the potential of distinguishing between the two fibre types using ratiometric analysis based on the Raman band peak heights of the most prominent bands.

For each spectrum, eight peak height measurements were made, namely I2932 (CH2 asymmetric stretch), I1655 (Amide I), I1450 (CH2 & CH3 bending modes), I1004 (Phe & Trp), I936 (Skeletal C-C stretch), I644 (Tyr), I622 (Phe), I508 (disulphide S-S stretch).

After initial assessments, the FT Raman band relative intensity ratios

A (I2932/I1450), B (I1655/I1450), C (I1004/I1450), D (I508/I1450) E (I936/I1450), F (I644/I1450) and G (I622/I1450) were selected as possibly having potential for distinguishing between wool and mohair (Table 1).

A comparison of the means of the various band peak height ratios (Table 1) showed that they all differed statistically significantly (p<0.05), except for Ratio E (I936/I1450).

Nevertheless, the individual values of the two fibres overlapped a great deal, making it difficult to accurately and consistently identify on a qualitative basis individual samples as being either wool or mohair or their blend, let alone on a quantitative basis.

Figure 1: SEM images of wool (top) and mohair (bottom) with their close-up SEM images showing the scale height measurements (right) (adapted from Notayi, 2014).

Figure 2: Bruker FTIR/Raman spectrophotometer at the Nelson Mandela University (NMU).

However, two of these ratios (A and D) showed a certain potential for detecting the presence of wool in a supposedly 100% mohair sample or product (see Figures 4 and 5).

Figure 4 shows that all the mohair Ratio A values fall below 3.1, while the wool mostly has above 3.1. What Figure 4, therefore, indicates is that if a sample of unknown fibre identity has a Ratio A value above 3.1, it cannot be pure mohair.

Similarly, if the sample has a Ratio A value below 2.7 it can be safely assumed to be pure mohair.

Between these two values is a grey area, since a sample with a Ratio A between 2.7 and 3.1 could be either wool or mohair, or a blend of the two.

Similar to the above, an analysis of the individual Ratio D results (Figure 5) indicates that a threshold of 0.22 can be used to decide whether a sample is pure mohair or not. If, for example, the sample has a Ratio D value exceeding 0.22, there is a very large probability that it contains no mohair and is pure wool, while if the unknown sample has a Ratio D value below 0.22, it could be either wool or mohair, or a blend of the two fibres.

It can therefore be concluded that, except in the above cases, Raman spectroscopy cannot with certainty distinguish between wool and mohair. This becomes even more difficult when a blended sample is being analysed.

A Raman spectral library of approximately 100 high-quality spectra for the Bruker Ram II system has been created for wool and mohair and can be used in future research. This spectral library has been partially validated in that about 80% of a new (different) set of samples were correctly identified as being either wool or mohair, as the case maybe.

RESEARCH OUTPUTS

A poster paper was presented at the 51st South African Microscopy Conference held in Pretoria in 2013, as well as at the International Mohair Forum held in Jansenville (2013).

A comprehensive Literature Review, covering some 200 scientific and technical papers, formed part of a PhD thesis, the degree being successfully completed, and the student graduating with a PhD (textile science) degree at the April 2021 virtual graduation ceremony of the Nelson Mandela University.

A paper, to be submitted to an internationally refereed journal, is in its final stage of preparation and will be tabled prior to the RAC meeting in September.

Figure 3: Typical Raman spectra of wool (blue) and mohair (red).

Figure 4: Distribution of the individual Ratio A values for mohair and wool.

Figure 5: Distribution of the individual Ratio D values for mohair and wool.

Table 1 (below): Selected Raman band ratios for wool and mohair

VETERINARY OVERVIEW 2020

A disease surveillance report

by Dr Mackie Hobson, South African mohair industry veterinarian

Atotal of 40 cases of multiple deaths were investigated in 2020 despite no post-mortems being done in April and May at the onset of the Covid pandemic.

It must be remembered these investigations do not necessarily reflect the cause of death or the number of fatalities across the industry, but only those cases where the industry vet was requested to investigate the cause of death.

However, these post-mortem investigations give us an insight into the trend of the more common disease fatalities within the industry over the last few years, as seen in the graph/table below.

» If we review the trend of the more common diseases over the last six years, we see that of late the clostridia diseases remain low in 2019-2020 relative to 2015-2018. This is possibly due to more producers using multi-clostridia vaccines over the last few years.

» Roundworm as a cause of mortality rose significantly in 2020 to 24% of cases, which under the general drought

conditions would seem higher than expected, although some areas did get rain in January-April 2020.

» The number of cases of pneumonia (18%) was average relative to previous years.

» The coccidiosis cases (15%) were similar to the previous two years (17% and 21%).

Correlations among Mohair Traits, Body Weight and Reproduction in South African Angora Goats Gretha

INTRODUCTION

During the 2020 season, the composition of the South African mohair clip comprised 22% kid mohair, 24% young goat mohair, 30% fine adult mohair and 25% strong adult mohair.

As 55% of the clip comes from adult animals, it is important that ewes should be able to maintain a high level of mohair production, in terms of fleece weight as well as fleece quality, throughout their flock life.

Depending on the weaning percentage, the reproduction rate contributes between 60% and 80% to the total annual income of an Angora ewe. The contribution of reproduction to income is mainly through the mohair production of the kids at first and second shearing. Thus, the higher the number of kids weaned in the flock, the higher the income generated from the more expensive kid mohair.

Selection of breeding sires aims to increase gain in future generations, while breeding dams also aim at increasing income generated from the current flock.

A selection of young ewes occurs at 16 to 18 months of age and it is thus important to select animals with the highest lifetime fleece and reproduction potential.

There are large differences in hair production, reproduction and income among ewes that had five or six kidding opportunities. These differences could be utilised by placing selection emphasis on those traits that contribute most to yearly income and for which high levels of production can be maintained until an older age.

Selection criteria for Angora goats include body weight, fleece weight, fibre diameter and fleece quality traits, while not much emphasis is currently placed on reproduction.

However, South African Angora goat stud breeders appreciated the importance of reproduction. They realised that the aim should be to have a genetically superior ewe flock in terms of reproductive potential.

To construct the most effective breeding plan, it is imperative that accurate genetic parameters for the traits involved be available. Genetic parameters for various fleece traits, predominantly fleece

Snyman

weight and fibre diameter, have been reported for Angora goats in different countries, including South Africa. However, genetic parameters for reproductive traits in Angora goats are not available.

In this paper, genetic and phenotypic correlations between early and adult body weight, fleece traits and reproduction, as well as among the respective adult traits, have been estimated.

These parameters will assist in the construction of breeding plans for the identification of animals at an early age with the highest lifetime fleece and reproduction potential to facilitate maximum current flock gains.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Data collected on the flocks of three South African Angora goat producers from 2000 until 2015 were included in this study. More detail on the various traits that were recorded, as well as the abbreviations for the traits used in the text, are summarised in Table 1

During kidding, full pedigrees, birth date, sex and birth status of each kid were recorded.

The number of fibres per animal (NF) at each shearing was calculated from the respective fleece weight, fibre diameter and staple length, using the following formula:

NF = FW

S g *π*r2*l where: NF = the number of fibres per animal,

FW = fleece weight (g),

S g = the specific gravity of mohair (1.31 g/cm3),

r = the radius of the fibre (cm),

l = the length of the fibre (cm).

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Heritabilities for all these traits can be found in Snyman (2018). Medium heritabilities were obtained for body weight and fleece weight and a high heritability was estimated for fibre diameter. This implies that if any of these traits are included in the selection objective and selection is based on own performance records for the specific trait, genetic progress in the trait will result.

TraitandabbreviationoftraitDetailsofrecordingofthetraitCollected sincea

Body weights

Weaning weight (kg)

8-month body weight (kg)

12-month body weight (kg)

16-month body weight (kg)

Adult body weight (kg)

Second shearing fleece traits

Fleece weight (kg)

Fibre diameter (µm)

Number of fibres

Third shearing fleece traits

Fleece weight (kg)

Fibre diameter (µm)

Number of fibres

Adult fleece traits (ewes winter shearing)

Fleece weight (kg)

Fibre diameter (µm)

Number of fibres

Reproduction

Ewe mated or not

Ewe kidded or not

Number of kids born per ewe

Number of kids weaned per ewe

The following were calculated from the above recorded reproductive data:

Total weight of kid weaned / year (kg)

Number of kids born / year

Number of kids weaned / year

Total weight of kid weaned at first parity (kg)

Number of kids born at first parity

Number of kids weaned at first parity

Table 1: Description of the traits recorded

WW Ram and ewe kids – recorded weight, date and management groups at 100 to 120 days of age

W8

W12

2000

Ram and ewe kids – recorded weight, date and management groups at 8 months of age 2000

Recorded weight, date and management groups at 12 months of age

Ewe kids and some ram and kapater kids in Flock A

Ewe and ram kids in Flock B

Ewe kids in Flock C

Recorded weight, date and management groups at 16 months of age

Ewe kids and some ram and kapater kids in Flock A

W16

2000

Ewe and ram kids in Flock B

Ewe kids in Flock C 2000

ABW Before mating on all ewes

FW2

FD2

Recorded fleece weight, management groups and current and previous shearing dates

Ram and ewe kids

Determined with OFDA2000 on midrib fleece sample of all ram and ewe kids

NF2Determined as described below table

Recorded fleece weight, management groups and current and previous shearing dates

Ram and ewe kids

2005

2000

2000

FD3

Determined with OFDA2000 on midrib fleece sample of all ram and ewe kids

NF3Determined as described below table

Winter shearing of the ewe flock

AFW

Recorded fleece weight, management groups and current and previous shearing dates

AFDDetermined with OFDA2000 on midrib fleece sample of all ewes

ANFDetermined as described below table

2005

Recorded annually during mating and kidding seasons 2000

TWW Sum of sex-corrected weaning weights of all kids weaned by a ewe for a specific kidding season

NKBNumber of kids born to a ewe in a specific kidding season

NKWNumber of kids weaned by a ewe in a specific kidding season

TWW1 Sum of sex-corrected weaning weights of all kids weaned by a ewe during her first kidding season

NKB1Number of kids born to a ewe during her first kidding season

NKW1Number of kids weaned by a ewe during her first kidding season

2000

a Data on Flock A and B collected until 2015; data on Flock C collected until 2010

Although low heritabilities were estimated for maiden ewe reproductive performance at the first parity, the high coefficients of variation for TWW1, NKB1 and NKW1 imply scope for selection that could be exploited to genetically improve reproductive performance of the adult ewe flock by classing out unproductive maiden ewes.

When this practice is implemented, care should be taken that maiden ewes reach an acceptable body weight at first mating. The low heritability estimates obtained for the reproductive traits in this study are typical for these parameters in various breeds and species. Genetic correlations of early body weight, fleece traits and maiden reproductive performance with adult body weight and fleece traits are presented in Table 2

Selection for early fleece weight will lead to a favourable genetic increase in adult body weight, fleece weight and staple length, but an unfavourable increase in adult fibre diameter. TWW should increase when selection is based on early fleece weight.

Genetic correlations of early fibre diameter with adult traits were the opposite of those of early fleece weight. Selection for early fibre diameter will lead to a favourable genetic increase in adult fibre diameter.

However, an unfavourable decrease in adult body weight, fleece weight and TWW could be expected when selection is based on early fibre diameter.

Selection for early body weight will have a favourable effect on adult body weight and reproduction, and an unfavourable effect on adult fibre diameter, and should not influence adult fleece weight.

Selection on maiden ewe reproductive performance will lead to an increased adult reproductive performance. Except for the

* Significant correlation; NC = models did not converge

favourable correlation between TWW1 and adult body weight, genetic correlations estimated between maiden reproductive performance and adult body weight, fleece weight and fibre diameter were unreliable due to very high standard errors. Genetic correlations estimated between the reproductive traits and adult fleece traits and body weight are presented in Table 3

As far as the genetic correlations among the adult traits are concerned, adult fleece weight was unfavourably correlated with reproduction and fibre diameter. However, there was a favourable correlation between adult fleece weight and number of fibres in the fleece.

Adult fibre diameter was unfavourably correlated with fleece weight and number of fibres, but favourably correlated with reproduction. There were favourable significant genetic correlations of reproduction with adult body weight and fibre diameter. Significant unfavourable genetic correlations of reproduction with fleece weight were estimated.

The most important genetic correlation in terms of current flock income is the unfavourable genetic correlations of reproduction with adult fleece weight.

The contradiction between the sign of the genetic correlation of early and adult fleece weight with lifetime reproduction could possibly be explained through the fact that fleece production in Angora ewes decreases with age after peaking at three years of age.

When comparing early production and reproduction traits of Angora ewes allocated to the Top 100 Income and Bottom 100 Income categories on the basis of yearly income significant differences in third shearing fleece weight and fibre diameter, early body weight and maiden reproductive performance were evident.

Table 2 Genetic correlations of early fleece traits, body weight and maiden reproductive performance with adult performance traits

Ewes in the Top 100 category had higher early body and fleece weights, fibre diameter and reproduction than ewes in the Bottom 100 category.

These results confirmed the genetic correlations obtained with this study.

CONCLUSIONS

Reproduction contributes the most to total yearly income and fortunately ewes are able to maintain high reproductive levels up to the age of seven years.

Unfortunately the reproductive traits have the lowest heritability of all the economically important traits.

Body weight indirectly contributes to reproduction through favourable genetic correlations with reproduction. Selection of young ewes should therefore be focused on early body weight, number of kids produced and weight of kids weaned at the first parity.

The negative relationship between reproduction and fleece production in the adult ewes emphasises the fact that positive selection pressure on early fleece weight should not be done at the cost of reproduction. Only young ewes with unacceptably low fleece weights should be classed out, while too much selection pressure on early fibre diameter in the young ewes should also be avoided.

Selection for fleece production and fleece traits should rather be addressed through ram selection.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The following persons and institutions are acknowledged for their contribution to this project:

» Par ticipating breeders for their inputs

» Mohair South Africa for partial funding of the project

» Personnel at Jansenville Experimental Station, Eastern Cape Department of Rural Development and Agrarian Reform

Table 3 Genetic correlations of body weight and adult fleece traits with adult body weight, fleece weight, fibre diameter and reproductive traits (TWW, NKB, NKW) * Significant correlation.

Grootfontein Agricultural Development Institute, Private Bag X529, Middelburg (EC), 5900 E-mail: GrethaSn@daff.gov.za

David Dettman , Olivewoods Farm, Somerset East, Wienand Family

Mohair Moments

Sandy Coffey Photography, Newlands Farm, Bedford

Marwyk Angora Stud, Wolmarans Stad, Northwest

Robyn Wienand, Waldeck Farm, Bedford

Katie Herold, (William & Oliver Herold), Ordonnantie Farm, Graaff-Reinet

Bernelee du Plessis Photography, (Erasmus Family), Erasmus Angora Stud

Ruth Pringle, Lynedoch Farm, Bedford

Maryke Stern, Wheatlands Farm, Graaff Reinet

Pringle Wedding, Nicki M Photography, Lynedoch Farm, Bedford

Robyn Wienand, Olivewoods Farm, Somerset East

Lizemari Jordaan, Nuwerus Farm, Aberdeen

Bernelee du Plessis Photography, (Erasmus Family), Erasmus Angora Stud

Robyn Wienand, Waldeck Farm, Bedford

Lizemari Jordaan, Nuwerus Farm, Aberdeen

Helette Oelofse, (Andries Oelofse), Grootblaauwkrans Farm, Jansenville

A skilled team for an important task

Jacques le Roux

The OVK Group, headquartered in Ladybrand, South Africa, is a thriving agricultural company with a rich history, stretching back more than a century.

The company is well-diversified, with operations in various agricultural areas, and provides its customers with a wide range of products and services.

One of our core industries is our fibre department, with the head office in Port Elizabeth. We enjoy a market share of more than 25% in both the wool and mohair industries. We provide brokerage and technical advisory services to wool and mohair producers, as well as warehousing services to our clients.

We are proud to be involved in the South African mohair industry and wish to build our footprint with a strong focus on sustainable and ethical production.

This year has been exceptional from a mohair marketing perspective, seeing a very strong price recovery on the back of the uncertainty of the COVID pandemic in 2020.

We are thankful that the market performance helps producers in the drought-stricken central parts of South Africa to survive and we pray with them for much-needed rain.

Our focus during the last year has been establishing and building our mohair team, both in the field and in our store.

In our mohair management team, we boast more than a combined 100 years of experience in the industry and we are making sure that this expert knowledge and know-how is passed on to the next generation.

Our technical field advisors are young and energetic, and we do not doubt that they will set the trend in the industry for the foreseeable future.

Highlights

From a marketing perspective, the whole of 2021, thus far, can be seen as a highlight for the industry due to excellent prices achieved. However, the first four sales of the winter season have been exceptional for OVK.

On top of achieving the highest bin prices, our average price on all four sales exceeded the Cape Mohair market indicator. The average price on the third sale was a whopping R453.23 per kg. This is testimony to our mohair producers delivering excellent hair and our technical team bringing their “A” game in the store!

OUR TEAM Mohair marketing

Etienne Bezuidenhout retired recently as manager of our mohair marketing department. Luckily for us his 34 years of experience will not be lost as he is still employed in a consulting role, where his focus is on transferring skills and knowledge to the new generation.

His position has been filled by the equally experienced Gerrit van Heerden.

The appointment of Luané Stapelberg as mohair marketer in Port Elizabeth adds to our uniquely balanced team with a strong female influence, bringing the necessary creative finesse to our mohair division.

Luané is no stranger to the industry, having spent four years as a mohair technical field advisor and boasting qualifications from Grootfontein Agricultural College and a BTech Agri degree from the Central University of Technology. She has a passion for Angora goats and mohair, and is an expert in her field.

The rest of the marketing team consists of Alet Opperman, Jondré du Preez and Jenny Geswindt, responsible for the processing and sale preparation of mohair received from producers.

General oversight of the mohair department is under Tink Strydom as the manager for fibre procurement and processing (stores). He has a wealth of experience, having farmed for 30 years (including mohair), and has an honours degree in sustainable agriculture and rural development from the Free State University.

Technical field advisors

OVK boasts technical field advisors throughout South Africa, including expert personnel in all mohair-producing areas. We are very excited about the balance between experience and youth in our field team and, as mentioned above, we believe them to be the future of the mohair industry.

Thank you

At OVK, we have a lot to be thankful for. Firstly our loyal producers, thank you for your tenacity and for producing top quality mohair despite the huge challenges you face every day.

Secondly, we are thankful for having a competent, happy mohair team, constantly providing excellent service to our clients.

We believe in the future of South African mohair. We believe in leaving a better world for our children. Our focus remains on honesty and integrity in everything we do.

 OVK

Back: Johndre du Preez, Tink Strydom, Jacques le Roux, Gerrit van Heerden, Jenny Geswindt

Front: Luane Stapelberg, Alet Opperman

We are proud to be involved in the South African mohair industry and wish to build our footprint with a strong focus on sustainable and ethical production.

New kid on the block, House of Fibre, is two years old and going strong!

Pierre van der Vyver

The new kid on the block, THE HOUSE OF FIBRE, recently celebrated its second birthday!

Being hands-on in the brokerage business, and with many challenges and achievements over this short time, it is hard to believe we are a mere two years old.

This has been no easy task, with challenge upon challenge and very little initially working according to plan, but the Almighty sure did have bigger plans for us!

One of our objectives that has not been achieved is uniting all mohair brokers under one roof, although, to date, 76% of the South African clip and 80% of the Lesotho mohair clip is handled in two warehouses under the auspices of The House of Fibre. This is no mean feat after just two years!

The House of Fibre is also proud to report the increase in its woolbrokering by an enormous 70%, to nearly two-million kilograms of Merino wool.

Substantial new marketing plans for sustainable fibre continue to play a large role in the long-term strategy of our brokerage, with the imminent introduction of blockchain technology, providing a new level of traceability, considered the most common sourcing objective by our global market.

A development such as this and many others will maintain The House of Fibre’s position as a substantial leading broker in South Africa.

The past six months were dominated by five words – COVID, RMS (Responsible Mohair Standard), SEED CONTAMINATION and DROUGHT

Let us start with the negative. The drought persists after five years over a substantial portion of our mohair production area. We continue to pray for relief for our farmers.

The farmers who did receive rain were further confronted with a seed contamination (vegetable matter) problem. The House of Fibre introduced a mechanical way of reducing the contamination problem, but the average income for a farmer and broker declined substantially.

COVID created some difficulties, mostly with the need for shearing teams to move around freely.

This, however, also presented an opportunity for The House of Fibre to introduce live-streaming electronic mohair sales, followed by the increasingly popular market report on the same evening. This introduction was certainly one of the silver linings during a very stormy time. We welcomed over a 1 000 viewers per sale, spanning from farms in South Africa and across the world.

The buzzword over the last year was undoubtedly RMS, with the big question being, to do or not to do? Was it a gimmick to make money out of the farmer?

The leading farmers quickly learned that this was no gimmick and is part of our future, so much so that in one year 70% of The House of Fibre’s producers have been registered to RMS.

You can draw your own conclusion on whether the RMS was worth the effort by referencing the table below, which depicts precise statistics of The House of Fibre sales over the past year.

In summary, over a year (winter 2020 and summer 2021) there was an average of R54.96/kg difference per micron. In our opinion, this is an easy decision!

The House of Fibre client, as well as the brokerage, excelled as

 Fred Colborne

R150 000 Record Price Ram The Wall of Fame

the best in the world. The samples of these bales can be viewed on “THE WALL OF FAME “at The House of Fibre warehouse in Port Elizabeth.

Some of the statistics achieved during this period were:

» The Angora ram sales are discussed in depth in another article, but we would like to congratulate Jan and Jannie Lategan from Aberdeen on selling their best Angora ram on a House of Fibre ram sale to Petrus Marx of Wolmaransstad (both clients of The House of Fibre) at a South African record price of R150 000.

»Billy and Fred Colborne of Willowmore achieved a seasonal record price for their best bale of summer kids at R922/kg! This was for a super-style, 22.7-micron, 93.6% clean yield summer kid. The world record price of Van Hasselt Farming of R1 235.10/kg still stands.

» The Colbornes did not stop there. Their best bale of EGT young goats (presented as winter kids) sold for a world record price of R855.10/kg. This super-style bale tested 25 microns with 88% clean yield.

»Jan and Jannie Lategan edged the world record price for a young goat (presented as a young goat) at R790/kg. This was for a good-style, 26-micron young goat with a clean yield of 81.4%.

» The Lategans continued to achieve both adult world record prices at R769/kg for a 27-micron, good-style adult, presented as a winter young goat, with a clean yield of 84.7%, and R600/kg for a 28-micron adult, presented as an adult, with a clean yield of 84.6%! Usually, we do not emphasise the average price for a total clip because it can easily be manipulated.

When we do publish that statistic, we ensure that it is the total clip with more than 1 000kg, with all three age-groups well represented and all-out sorts in the calculation.

In the past 10 years, without skipping a year, the EGT clips always came out on top. This season was no exception.

The fully EGT clip of Theronnie van der Merwe set a new national record of R620.51/kg average for his total clip! His team at Jonkersnek Boerdery includes his daughter Francis and son-in-law Brian Kingwill.

Congratulations to these producers and all the other producers throughout the season who kept The House of Fibre in the spotlight.

What a privilege and honour it was to market your clips.

Gerda Hayward, The Livestock Photographer and Newlands Angoras and Guest Sellers

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+27 675 1090 | info@adelesmohair.co.za | www.adelesmohair.co.za

In memory of…

It was with great sadness that the news of Peter Cawood’s passing on May 17 was received.

Peter, who farmed at Cawoodholme and Merino near Mount Stewart for many years, spent a large portion of his life in service of the mohair industry at several levels and will be sorely missed for his selfless contribution.

After achieving great heights in sport (tennis, rugby and cricket) at Grey High in Port Elizabeth, where he was the deputy head boy in his matric year, he spent a year as a learner farmer at Angora farm under the leadership of John Kettlewell before he settled at Cawoodholme to start his farming career.

Married to Pearl McGuire, they raised a family of four daughters, who all attended the local Mount Stewart Primary farm school. How different and uncomplicated life seemed then!

Peter and his family played a pivotal role in the community at Mount Stewart and his public-spirited attitude will remain a legacy in the community of which he was part. He probably deserved the title of mayor of The Mount if all his contributions are considered!

He helped to maintain the local Methodist church and served on its council. He also looked after the tennis courts and was chairman of the Jansenville Cricket Club, where he first participated as an accomplished player. Later he served as manager of the Eastern Cape Country Districts Settlers cricket side.

He had a way with younger players and the small cricketing area produced some impressive players due to his interest, encouragement and support.

It was his passion for Angora goats that turned him into a successful ram breeder and this was the catalyst for dedicating a large portion of his life to the interests of the mohair industry.

He served on SAMGA in various positions for 25 years and the Ram Breeders Society for 30 years. During this period, he was often in the chair.

It was the same dedication to Angora goats that drove him to become one of the founder members of CMW, where he filled the chair from 1993-2008.

Peter was a team player and believed in a consensus of minds. Always well prepared for a meeting, he encouraged democratic debate and considered the opinion of the speakers with great attention. Ever ready with a joke, he was able to diffuse some awkward moments during meetings with a touch of lighthearted banter.

Peter and Pearl were hospitable folks, and there was always a plate of food or a warm bed and plenty of goodwill at Cawoodholme. Pearl was a pillar of strength and her support during his tenure enabled him to spend much time away from home.

He will be remembered as a dedicated farmer, loving husband, father and grandfather, selfless leader and a much-loved member of his community.

The mohair industry holds Pearl and his daughters Debbie, Kim, Liza and Jane and their families in its thoughts as they come to terms with his passing.

Peter Cawood

Mohair service record:

» Ram Breeders executive: 1972-2002

» Vice-chairman: 1975-1977 and 1988-1990

» Mohair Growers executive: 1975-1997

The industry remembers a tall tree

Linda Henderson

In memory of…

Ntate Harris

We thank Oom Harris for his passion for Angora goats, his stockmen for working endless hours over sleepless nights to ensure that the goats were taken care of, and were safe and healthy. We thank his children who were patient with seeing him, even if for just a moment, as he ate his meals in the veld. Farming was Oom Harris’s passion – it was his family business and it was a sacrifice for all.

You left us with beautiful memories – your love for farming, especially Angora goats, will be our guide. We were so honoured to have met and worked alongside you, Ntate Harris.

You raised and kept the mohair flag flying high in your town, Matatiele.

On behalf of the Empowerment Trust and the mohair industry, may your soul rest in peace.

You were a hero, a mentor of your nation, loving and kind. Matatiele is mourning. Basotho, our hero, has fallen, but the legacy he left for his people will be remembered forever.

In memory of…

These words stand engraved in the boardroom of SAMIL (SA Mohair Industries Limited) as a reminder of the philosophy by which its ex-chairman lived.

It was with great sadness that the news of Mr Francis Patthey’s passing earlier in the year was reported.

Described by many as a serial entrepreneur, Francis had an insatiable energy and enthusiasm for new ventures, many of which included the mohair industry. Laudable for his humility, he did not attempt to enrich himself but always strove to benefit mankind in his successes.

Originally from Switzerland but eventually a much-travelled citizen of many destinations, Francis had a keen interest in pharmaceuticals, tourism, agriculture and fashion, but it was probably his passion for natural fibres that lit the fires of more than 30 business ventures during his fruitful career.

Trying to summarise his CV is a near-impossible task. He revelled at challenges and thrived on problem-solving, a trait that was shaped by his simple upbringing that was influenced by many obstacles, which included the Second World War.

His journey in natural fibres started with his interest in alpacas in Peru. Alpha Tops, his venture in alpaca combing, eventually led to an enterprise, Kuna, a much-respected fashion label.

“I wanted to add mohair to my range and, with the help of Harold Laycock, we started a mohair combing plant in Port Elizabeth,” he said. “I wanted to reproduce the success I had with alpacas.”

The rest is history. SAMIL, of which he became chairman, has become a major roleplayer in the South African mohair industry, but his involvement did not stop at combing and top making.

His concern about the dwindling mohair supply chain led him to invest in the Goats with no Future project, which had SAMIL co-farming kapaters (castrates) with established producers on a share basis.

His ever enquiring mind also led him to initiate the ANGELA project aimed at genetic selection and transformation in Angora goats.

Seen as a whole, his interest, commitment and investment in the mohair industry are probably immeasurable.

Linda Henderson

His request to have his ashes strewn under an ancient spekboom after his death with a bottle of his favourite wine buried under this natural gravestone – “so that I may contribute something to the environment to reduce the carbon footprint even by one grain of sand” – encapsulates the essence of the man.

We shall miss this gentle philanthropist with his extremely generous heart and mercurial business brain. The South African mohair industry was fortunate to have him in its midst.

‘To give, you must have. To have and not to give, that is bad’

Francis Patthey

FOR ANGORA CLIPS

PROPERTIES

Ensures

No

Minimal weight loss

No deterioration during shelf-life

Can be diluted with water

Can be used in conjunction with other dips

Mohair Management

MOHAIR SA

Chairman & Non-Executive Director: IR Bekker

Non-Executive Directors: I Smith, P van der Vyver

General Manager: M Coetzee

SOUTH AFRICAN MOHAIR GROWERS’ ASSOCIATION

President: M Shires

Vice-President: S Reynolds

Executive Members: IR Bek ker, S Hobson, C Kemp, A Mehlo, J Oelofse, N Rossouw, L Short, W Truter, J van Hasselt

Manager: S Vermaak

ANGORA RAM BREEDERS’ SOCIETY

President: L Short

Vice-President: H Greeff

Executive Members: G Hobson, S Hobson, G Hope, D Short, R van der Merwe, J van Hasselt

Manager: S Vermaak

Mohair SA Staff

General Manager

Marco Coetzee marco@mohair.co.za

Mohair Empowerment Trust Officer

Beauty Mokgwamme beauty@mohair.co.za

SAMGA Manager

Sanmarie Vermaak sanmarie@angoras.co.za

Technical Officer

Riano Greyling riano@mohair.co.za

Marketing & Communications Officer

Siobhan Momberg siobhan@mohair.co.za

Contact Details

Mohair SA / SAMGA / SA Mohair Farm Workers Association

Address: 127 Fordyce Road, Walmer, Por t Elizabeth, 6065

Postal Address: P O Box 2243, North End Por t Elizabeth, 6056

Tel: 041 581 1681

E-mail: info@mohair.co.za

SA MOHAIR FARM WORKERS’ ASSOCIATION

Chairman: C Kemp

Committee: E Blouw, M Buys, G Sam

Manager: S Vermaak

MOHAIR TRUST

Chairman: A Kirsten

Vice-Chairman: M Shires

Members: S Fani, A Greeff, N Hadi, C Hobson, G Hope, C Kemp, D Nel, J Oelofse, D Short, I Staats

MOHAIR EMPOWERMENT TRUST

Chairman: M Shires

Vice-Chairman & SAMGA: I R Bek ker

Members: S Fani, A K irsten, K Mosoma, D Short, B N yhodo

Officer: Beauty Mokgwamme

Relationship Officer

Jackie Gant jackie@mohair.co.za

Admin & Finance Assistant

Nickey Small nickey@mohair.co.za

Personal & Admin Assistant

Claudia Kirchner claudia@mohair.co.za

Retail Store

General Enquiries

retail@mohair.co.za

info@mohair.co.za

Angora Ram Breeders Society

Address: 21 Hoofstraat, Jansenville, 6265

Postal address: Posbus 50, Jansenville, 6265

Contact number: 049 836 0140

Email: rambreeders@angoras.co.za

SA Mohair Growers’ Association

List of branches with the names and contact details of the chairmen and secretaries respectively

ABERDEEN

Chairman: H van Rensburg, 083-446 8985, hannesnorette@gmail.com

Secretary: N van Rensburg, 084-580 9644, hannesnorette@gmail.com

ADELAIDE

Chairman: T Painter, 072-949 3558, tonypainter@kroomie.co.za

Secretary: EA van der Vyver (Emsie), 046-645 3016/083-226 1941, devdvyver@kroomie.co.za

ALBANY

Chairman: S Danckwerts, 046-622 7946/ 084-387 6886, sdancwerts72@gmail.com

Secretary: Kevin Bowker, 079-036 4787, kevnat@imaginet.co.za

BEAUFORT-WES/WEST

Chairman: R du Toit, 082-926 9497, roland@baakensrug.co.za

Secretary: D Gous, 023-416 1684/083-441 9107, dean.ask@beaufortwest.net

BEDFORD

Chairman: RW Pringle, PO Box 20, Bedford 5780, 046-685 0858/082-711 6091, pringle.rw@gmail.com

Secretary: A Peck , 072-482 2370, bedfordfa50@gmail.com

BUFFELSHOEK

Chairman: S Hobson, 079-057 0557, seanhobson1@gmail.com

Secretary: J Short, 072-596 8530, lloyd@wheatlands.co.za

COCKSCOMB

Chairman: JG Muller, 049-838 0063/072-851 2221 carlo@y2konline.co.za

Secretary: K Knoetze, 049-838 0068

CRADOCK

Chairman: H Collett, 082-321 0125, collettdairy@lantic.net

Secretary: H Linde, 072-805 0567, hjlinde04@gmail.com

DRAKENSBERG

Chairman: T Mavuso, 072-027 0006

Secretary: S C Molutsoane, 082-444 3109, scmolutsoane@gmail.com

FORT BEAUFORT

Chairman: B Knott, 083-228 4403, brett@katco.co.za

Secretary: L Botha, 082-873 6821, dirk.lindsaybotha@gmail.com

GEORGIDA

Chairman: Vacant

Secretary: N Fourie, 044-771 1070/072-392 8645, niaan@vodamail.co.za

GLENCONNOR

Chairman: A Rudman, 083-280 1335, eardleyrudman@gmail.com

Secretary: F Rudman, 083-280 1337, fjrudman74@gmail.com

GRAAFF-REINET

Chairman: R McNaughton, 049-845 0161/ 082-928 5223, hmcn@isat.co.za

Secretary: F Minnaar, 049-841 1500/ 082-505 2791, faminnaar@hotmail.com

JANSENVILLE

Chairman: G Taljaard, 049-836 0339/083-415 9038, gert@noorsveld.co.za

Secretary: Y Basson, 063-186 3555, gert@noorsveld.co.za

KAROO-ANGORA

Chairman: GJ van den Heever, 082-853 3270, hardie.vandenheever@house-of-fibre.co.za

KLEIN KAROO

Chairman: W Truter, Posbus 5, Herold, 6615, 044-888 1722/082-566 2070, weebert@mweb.co.za

Secretary: P van der Westhuysen, Posbus 2091, George 6530, 044-272 8718/083-635 6884, pieterzebra@mtnloaded.co.za

KLIPPLAAT

Chairman: C Lee, 082-322 0474 leefarm@igen.co.za

Secretary: Neil Outram, Posbus 8, K lipplaat 6255, 049-834 9065/082-332 5380, nejo@vodamail.co.z

MORTIMER

Chairman: J du Toit, 083-456 3871, jjdutoit046@gmail.com

Secretary: C du Toit, cjsnyman@gmail.com

MURRAYSBURG

Chairman: T van der Mer we, 087-158 1576/ 076-949 7707, jonkersnek@pop.co.za

Secretary: P de Klerk, 087-803 5849/ 072-868 6299, pdk.karoo@gmail.com

NOORD-WES

Chairman: P Mar x, 073-370 9149, petrusmarx@gmail.com

Secretary: A Mar x, 072-203 4788, angene.vanwyk@gmail.com

PEARSTON

Chairman: B Davenport, 082-322 1864, bertie@r63.co.za

Secretary: A Koegelenberg, 083-655 2839, pearstonlbv@gmail.com

POST RETIEF

Chairman: F Norval, 087-805 9523/084-584 0734, postretieffarmers@gmail.com

Secretary: R van Vuuren, PO Box 326, Adelaide 5760, 072-525 4290/087-350 1781, postretieffarmers@gmail.com

PRINS ALBERT

Chairman: J van Hasselt, PO Box 137, Prince Albert 6930, 076-165 4389, jordivh91@gmail.com

Secretary: T le Grange, 071-130 0802, terblanchelegrange@gmail.com

RICHMOND

Chairman: OD Hugo, Posbus 30, Richmond 7090, 053-693 0834/083-232 9346, skietkraaljag@gmail.com,

Secretary: Vakant

RIETBRON

Chairman: M A V van der Merwe, 044-934 1136/083-590 6564, korenkraal@gmail.com

Secretary: MJ Murray, 076-515 0734, mjmurray995@gmail.com

SOMERSET-OOS/EAST

Chairman: G Brown, 042-243 3630, gcbrown14@outlook.com

Secretary: Vakant

SOMERSET-OOS/EAST

(PADDAFONTEIN)

Chairman: B Henderson, 084-620 6980, bertram@bosberg.co.za

Secretary: H Strydom,072-104 7366, hermanus@jabama.co.za

STEYTLERVILLE

Chairman: P Knoesen, 082-858 3506, peterknoesen@gmail.com

Secretary: E Goldschagg, 072-736 0978, regoldschagg@gmail.com

SWAERSHOEK

Chairman: D Glennie, swaershoek@jabama.co.za

Secretary: P Delport

TARKASTAD

Chairman: Pieter Herselman, Posbus 7, Tarkastad 5370, 045-846 9280/072-241 1555, pieterherselman@yahoo.com

Secretary: Justin Phillips, 045-846 9307/ 082-495 6097, nix.jay.phillips@gmail.com

UNIONDALE

Chairman: D Giles, 076-463 3648

Secretary: N Fourie, Posbus 189, Uniondale 6460, 044-771 1070

VICTORIA-WES/WEST

Chairman: W Viljoen, Posbus 130, Victoria-Wes 7070, 053-004 0087/073-888 7188, rrnwkaroo@telkomsa.net

Secretary: Henk Marais, Posbus 181, VictoriaWes 7070

WATERFORD

Chairman: J Oelofse, 082-223 3910, oelofsejay@gmail.com

Secretary: S Human, 082-456 3784, hsulise@gmail.com

WILLOWMORE

Chairman: Andries Greeff, Posbus 34, Willowmore 6445, 044-923 1887/082-391 6460, beervlei@gmail.com

Secretary: Ansie Greeff, Posbus 34, Willowmore 6445, 044-923 1887/082-789 6824, beervlei@gmail.com

ZUURBERG

Chairman: R von Holdt, 083-554 5565, r obroy@igen.co.za

Secretary: G Webster, russelpark@bosberg.co.za

Angora Ram Breeders Society

The following is a list of the members of the above society. In order to improve and maintain high standards in respect of Angora goats in South Africa, all studs are inspected and flock histories investigated upon receipt of application for membership. Please contact the ARBS office to update your details. Please supply your telephone, cell and email address.

MEMBERS

Stud No Owner / Name, Postal Adress

333 Angela Genetics Angela Genetics, PO Box3446, North End, 6056

325 Bosch, M C & R P, Rietfontein Angoras, PO Box 81, Somerset-East, 5850

187 Cawood, P L, Cawoodholme Angoras, Cawoodholme, P/Bag Klipplaat, 6255

153 Colborne, F E & Sons, Kilborne, PO Box 161, Willowmore, 6680

315 Colborne, N, 16 Gladys Road, Providentia, Port Elizabeth, 6070

133 Du Plessis, P, Karoo-Lelie Landgoed BK, Posbus 65, Cradock 5880

169 Du Preez, O M, Posbus 100, Cradock 5880

214 Du Toit, R, Baakensrug Angoras, PO Box 1281, Beaufort West, 6970

341 Erasmus, S, Erasmus Angora Stud, Uitval, Wolmaransstad, 2630

266 Eybers, L, Welgedacht Angorastoet, Posbus 35, Rietbron, 6450

299 Eybers, L, Welgedacht Angorastoet, Posbus 35, Rietbron, 6450

244 Ferreira, G T & Seuns, Snyberg Angoras, p/a N Rossouw, Posbus 24, Leeu Gamka 6950

330 Fourie, A H, De Hoop Angoras, De Hoop, Posbus 47, De Rust 6650

323 Grootfontein Studente Angorastoet, Privaatsak X529, Middelburg 5900

105 Hobson, AB & Sean, Martyrsford, PO Box 385, Graaff-Reinet 6280

317 Hobson, AR, Thorn Park Angoras, PO Box 47, Steytlerville 6250

142 Hobson, AR, Thorn Park Angoras, PO Box 47, Steytlerville 6250

295 Hobson, D L, Hobson Pastoral, PO Box 482, Eppingdust 7475

340 Hobson, D L, PO Box 482, Eppingdust 7475

118 Hobson, R B, Jackson Angora Stud, Jackson Farm, PO Box 32, Pearston 5860

109 Hope, G, Lochdale Angoras, PO Box 114, Jansenville 6265

329 Hugo, O D, Olmar, Skietkraal, Posbus 30, Richmond 7090

338 JJ Boerdery Angora Stoet, J vd Schyff & J du Pisanie, Ouplaas, Posbus 1853, Plettenbergbaai 6600

332 Jordaan, P, Legacy Angoras, Gert Jordaan Familietrust, Posbus 139, Aberdeen 6270

195 Jordaan, W, Posbus 68, Cradock 5880

343 Jordaan, Z, Ziege Angoras, Rietfontein, Posbus 303, Somerset-Oos 5850

Spinners

Samil

Address: 79 Burman Rd, Deal Party, Port Elizabeth, 6012

Tops Division: sales@samil.co.za

Yarns Division: yarns@samil.co.za

Phone: +27 (0) 41 486 2430

Stud No Owner / Name, Postal Adress

102 Kirkman, J D & Son, Nashvale, Steytlerville 6250

267 Lategan, J , Fairview, Posbus 118, Aberdeen 6270

174 Lee, C, PO Box 15, Klipplaat 6255

196 Lotter, G J L, Du Preezskraal, Du Preezskraal, Posbus 147, Willowmore 6445

339 Mar x, P J, Marwyk Angora Stoet, Uitval-Grond, Posbus 475, Wolmaransstad 2630

262 Nel, S J, Slater & Nel, Drie-Kuilen, Posbus 90, Steytlerville 6250

313 Retief, F J, Driehoeksfontein Boerdery Pty Ltd, Posbus 415, Murraysburg 6995

342 Retief, W J, De Badboerdery, De Bad, Posbus 65, Hanover 7005

324 SAMIL Farming (Pty) Ltd, Woodlands Angora Stud, PO Box 3446, North End 6056

117 Shires, M S, The Angora Stud, Mount Stewart, P/Bag Klipplaat 6255

217 Short, D, Wheatlands Angora Stud, PO Box 711, Graaff-Reinet 6280

116 Short, L, Shirlands Angora Stud, PO Box 325, Graaff-Reinet 6280

336 Smith, D, Baviaanskloof Kleinpoort Angorastoet, Kleinpoort Baviaanskloof, Pk Lulet 6452

188 Stegmann, G F & Sons, Slagterskuil, PO Box 170, Willowmore 6445

248 Truter, M & H, Wolwedans Angorastoet, Posbus 862, Oudtshoorn 6620

286 Truter, M & H, Die Wieg Angorastoet, Posbus 862, Oudtshoorn 6620

334 Van der Merwe, I, Kunna Angoras, Kunna, Aberdeen 6270

328 Van der Merwe, R P Jnr, Newlands Angoras, Posbus 1, Aberdeen 6270

101 Van Hasselt Farming, Gannahoek Angoras, PO Box 137, Prince Albert 6930

242 Van Hasselt Farming, Zwartberg Angoras, PO Box 137, Prince Albert 6930

327 van Zyl, A P , Vlugfontein Angoras, Posbus 14, Colesberg 9795

185 Viljoen, P H, De Hannesrust, Kleinpoort, 6236

Stucken Group

Tel: +27 (0) 41 397 4700

Fax: +27 (0) 41 397 4735

Email: stucken@stucken.co.za

Address: Cnr William Moffett & Circular Drive, Walmer, Port Elizabeth

Local Manufacturers

Abafazi

Ricca Turgle abafazi.net@gmail.com

(+27) 042 231 1295

Adele’s Mohair

Eastern Cape

Adele Cutten adele@adelesmohair.co.za

(+27) 046 675 1090

www.adelesmohair.co.za

African Expressions (Samil)

Eastern Cape

Roaxanne Maddox roxanne@samil.co.za

(+27) 041 486 2430

www.africanexpressions.co.za

Annette Oelofse Mohair

Ingubo Weavers

Etienne Marais

(+27) 083 225 5074

www.capemohair.co.za

Jan Paul Barnard

Jan Paul Barnard info@mohairweavers.co.za

(+27) 042 231 1295

Karoo Looms

Eastern Cape

Anette Oelofse annette@mohairblanket.co.za

(+27) 082 466 6174

www.mohairblanket.co.za

Berg Weaving

Eastern Cape

Brian Choromanski brian@littleweavers.co.za

(+27) 082 807 7498

Camdeboo Leisure

Paul Michau & Danie Jordaan camdeboo@telkomsa.net

(+27) 083 785 2857

Cape Mohair

Johan Gouws

info.ingubo.gmail.com

Western Cape

Eastern Cape

Sophia Booley info@karooweavery.co.za

(+27) 023 541 1363

www.karooweavery.co.za

La Mohair

Kwazulu Natal

danie@dosak a.co.za

Eastern Cape

johan@capemohair.co.za info@capemohair.co.za

(+27) 021 534 4134

www.capemohair.co.za

Coral Stephens Hand Weavers

Western Cape

Murrae Stephens murrae@coralstephens.com

(+26) 082 431 3340

www.coralstephens.com

Cowgirl Blues

Eswatini (Swaziland)

Bridget Henderson shopping@cowgirlblues.co.za

(+27) 083 445 1150

www.cowgirlblues.co.za

Elsa Barnard Woven Carpets

Western Cape

Elsa Barnard ebmohair@gmail.com

(+27) 046 624 8707

www.mohaircarpets.co.za

Frances VH Designs

Eastern Cape

Frances Van Hasselt info@francesvh.com

(+27) 072 959 6953

www.francesvh.com

Hinterveld (Stucken)

Western Cape

Daniel Stucken info@hinterveld.com

(+27) 041 992 4880

www.hinterveld.com

Eastern Cape

Western Cape

Larissa Primmer lprimmer@telkomsa.net

(+27) 084 583 2553

Miss Knitwear

Eastern Cape

Candice Johnson candice@missknitwear.co.za

(+27) 073 885 1645

www.missknitwear.co.za

Nceduluntu - Wesley Project

Western Cape

Colette Tilley nceduluntuwesley@gmail.com

(+27) 082 770 4056

Nomvula’s Knitters

Eastern Cape

Frances Bekker nomvulasknitters@gmail.com

(+27) 082 478 3022

www.nomvulas.com

Ruskorex

Andrew Laing andrew@ruskorex.com

(+27) 082 789 6686

Jarred Shear jared@ruskorex.com

(+27) 082 796 8733

www.ruskorex.com

Shuttleworth Weaving

Rob & Julia Shuttelworth woven@shuttleworthweaving.com

(+27) 082 540 9639

www.shuttleworthweaving.com

Stucken Yarns - MSSA

Eastern Cape

Kwazulu Natal

Nico Stucken info@stuckenyarns.com

(+27) 041 397 4700

www.stuckenyarns.com

Wrapt Knitwear

EasternCape

Hanelie Bekker chat@wrapt.co.za

(+27) 076 723 6563

www.wrapt.co.za Gauteng