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EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Senior Fashion Writer Natalie Trevis

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Senior Editorial Assistant Aishwarya Tyagi

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Editorial Assistant Sophie pasztor

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists JAMES V. THOMAS GEMMA BEDINI LAIN JENNINGS

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

MOJEH Men Group Peter Iantorno Dmitri Ruwan

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212-213 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

ART

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

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Concierge Service Management daisy marchant

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

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Lifestyle Assistance kasia wawryszuk

Contributing Photographers ALICE ROSATI ANTHONY ARQUIER NORBERT KNIAT SPELA KASAL TRACEY MORRIS

Photographed by Spela Kasal, model wears Chanel Jewellery, Christian Dior and Courreges.

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

Features 44. The Antidote The man behind the reincarnation of Gucci, Alessandro Michele, is fuelled with romance and eccentricity. We take a closer look into the philosophy of his recent work.

50. Haute Hopes Have designers found a middle ground between Haute Couture and ready-to-wear? We’re looking into this growing sense of fluidity and the rise of lavish yet approachable fashion.

70. She’s A Man Repeller The new season brings with it a plethora of flood jeans, wooden clogs and neon-hued oversized hoodies. Is the “Man Repeller” look finally acceptable?

Photoshoots 82. Revolutionary Road

112. Modern Musing

Glittering embellishments and sumptuous textures

Offset a soft palette of white, ivory and cream with a

come alive under the Middle Eastern sun, championing

heady take on fabrics and layering. Here the modern

a new type of sensual allure.

Bloomsbury set and their art provide inspiration.

98. A Hidden Art

128. The New Romantics

Look toward Chanel’s Metiers d’Art for an intricate

Enjoy the jewels of spring in excess as we embrace

take on the season. Neat capes, dark clashing textures

the high jewellery pieces that are perfect for the

and reflective surfaces sum up the exquisite offering.

playful bride to be.

20 Style 42. My Stylish Life: Shereen Mitwalli A woman of many talents, the Dubai-based entrepreneur and television presenter talks to us about fashion, work life, fitness, and everything in between.

56. The Precious Pairings Weddings are a time to reflect on sentimental pieces of jewellery. Timeless rose and gold accessories are getting modern upgrades for the season’s mood with plush charm.

78. Finding Calm in the Chaos Karl Lagerfeld brings to our attention some fashionmindfulness, with Chanel’s spring/summer 2016 Haute Couture’s high fashion ecosystem.

Jewellery and Watches 142. Death of the Diamond

154. Echoes of Granville

The once coveted rock is seemingly losing its position

Regional fashion illustrator Samar Sadik brings to

as a girl’s best friend. We speak to industry experts

life Dior’s latest haute joaillerie collection, inspired

on the case of the lost popularity of the dazzling gem.

by Mr. Dior’s jubilant childhood home and memories.

150. Ephemeral Elements

158. Spring’s Serenity

See the vividly hued luxuries of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s

From scrumptious ruby-encrusted high jewellery to

timepieces that make for perfect haute accessories

stunning variations on juicy pink quartz, we make our

for a blushing bride in the new season.

pick of spring’s poetic bijoux to covet.

22 Talking Points 38. The Late-Mooners Delaying the much-awaited honeymoon is turning into a new norm amongst the fresh crop of married couples. We look at why it might be the right choice for you.

40. Style Steal The recent spate of feminine influences on men’s catwalks this year makes us question if after years of stealing their style, men’s designers are hitting back?

182. Honeymoons Off the Beaten Path Will you swap your lazy honeymoon for an electrifying adventure? We explore the growing trend of daring decamps amongst newlyweds.

MOJEH Women 36. My Style Insiders

64. L.A. Attitude

From designing ethereal bridal gowns to running an

Rosetta Getty gives us a glimpse into her fabulous

empire, Georgina Chapman lets us into her world and

life and refreshing take on spring/summer’s minimalist

shares her secrets to success.

statement pieces from her latest collection.

62. Opulent Ambition

188. An Endless Voyage

Abu Dhabi-based designer Reem Juan shares the

We get talking to jet-setting fashion designer Adriana

inspirations behind her label, which evokes richness

Iglesias to discuss her love for travelling, and a trendy,

and romantic allure with its lavish craftsmanship.

comfortable wardrobe to match.

E d i t o r ’s L ette r Photographed by ANTHONY ARQUIER

Tides of Change Since day one of MOJEH Magazine, I’ve adamantly opted out of the obvious approach to the ‘bridal’ issue. Big white gowns, plenty of Vera Wang and a surplus of ‘something old, something new’ quotes? Not for us, thank you. The wedding season is one of the busiest times of the year, and as all-encompassing as it is, it’s more likely that you’re enjoying these months as a guest, not necessarily the bride-to-be. With that in mind, we approach each of our May issues with an air of romance, an allure of couture and a heady dose of the alternative. In our style pages, discover what has fast become one of the dreamiest brands on the fashion week schedule, Gucci, under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele. With their whimsical and quixotic nature, each collection since the brand’s rebirth a little over a year ago has demonstrated fashion as being both functional and fanciful. Similarly, in A Hidden Art we showcase Chanel’s Metier’s d’Art, the collection that showcases the stoic house’s enigmatic ability to create otherworldly pieces and offer testament to sheer craftsmanship once a year. In a slightly satirical ode to those looking to play with the rules this season, delve into 2016’s takeover trend, ‘The Man Repeller’ – spectacles, grandmother dresses, pearls and patchwork prints; are you part of the new style wave? On a similar note, we speak to industry experts about the diamond and ponder its place in the 21st century. Will you opt for the crystal clear stone or a boldly hued rock when it comes to your big day? In a related game of choices, our culture pages discuss the growing popularity of adventure-moons (hikes across Patagonia’s terrains or whale watching in British Columbia take your fancy?), along with the shift towards delayed honeymoons. Whatever choices you make for the season, as a bride or her guest, defy the norm and choose what suits you, not the masses.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

E d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SN A P SHOT s

P i n k P ro mis e 5

3&4

Sing in May with sweet sensuality and pretty perfection. Adopt feminine styles in blush pink for a season of romance, and elevate girly hues with elaborate embellishments. Pair lightweight whites with ornate rose jewellery and flushed accessories.

Springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footwear just got a whole lot more sensual. Delicately wrap dainty ribbons around your legs for a playful touch, and look to clean palettes of white and gold for daytime elegance.

Top to bottom: AQUAZZURA at Harvey Nichols Dubai | GIANVITO ROSSI at Harvey Nichols Dubai | ALEXANDRE BIRMAN at Harvey Nichols Dubai

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, words by Sophie Pasztor

st yl e note

T e s s e l l at e d

Forms Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, words by Sophie Pasztor

Be inspired by the ancient craft of mosaic and redefine predictable designs with new abstraction. Replace last seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bracelet with a coveted cuff that has a strong focus on shape and form.

White Noise 18 karat rose gold and diamond cuff, ISTANA JEWELLERS

j e w ellery n ot e

Diamond k

Making a versatile addition to your collection, Bulgariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s transformative necklace infuses the ingenuity of detachable segments with stunning design. Its functionality allows you to customise the piece, while the design looks to reflect the geometric precision of manicured gardens.

Sparkling Hearts Giardini Italiani Collection, high jewellery necklace convertible to brooch with one round brilliant cut diamond, four heart shaped diamonds and pavĂ¨ diamonds in white gold, BVLGARI

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, words by Sophie Pasztor

Crowning Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, words by Sophie Pasztor

Do away with standard hair ornaments and don this fairytale accessory that will inject modern-day regality into your big day. Begin your happily-ever-after with an edgy jewel encrusted tiara from Saint Laurent, and layer it with a traditional veil or wear it as a singular statement piece.

Tiaras, SAINT LAURENT

Fa sh io n IN F O C U S

Island Bay Botanical infusions against minimalist tailoring craft a paradisiacal illusion, as crystalline jewels and sorbet shades exude relaxed cool.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

IVY LEAGUE Update your wardrobe with the season’s whimsical take on sportswear – a study in edgy lace-up culottes and abstract bags.

ARTHUR ARBESSER

34 ODE TO AFRICA Let light linens and dusk toned embroideries set the mood for a Saharan romance as you breeze through the day.

ANTONIO MARRAS

TINSEL TOWN New glamour is for the rule breakers; pair mahogany sandals with ball gowns and fine jewellery for star status.

BADGLEY MISCHKA

W o ma n o f S ty le

Marchesa founders Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman

Georgina Chapman Brit-designer Georgina Chapman, co-founder of Marchesa with friend and fellow designer Keren Craig, is a self-made fashion success story, who built a fashion empire from the ground up. A Marchesa gown lends an ethereal touch to every red carpet or high profile wedding it graces â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we talk with Georgina about the stylish insiders she has met along her journey from London to L.A.

Interview by Natalie Trevis. Images courtesy of Georgina Chapman and Getty.

My Style Insiders:

Who has been a mentor to you and in

Which of your bridal clients has touched

what way?

your emotions the most?

My mother â&#x20AC;&#x201C; she is my best friend and my

All of our bridal clients mean the world to me.

sounding board. She has always encouraged

It is an extraordinary experience to be a part

me to pursue my passions, which led me to

of a brideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s special day, so Keren and I take

follow my dream of becoming a designer.

the responsibility quite seriously.

Who has most influenced your personal

We can find your bridal collection at

style?

Esposa in the Middle East. What have

I would say Marchesa Luisa Casati for her

you learnt about what makes the perfect

daring outlook on fashion.

bridal gown? The Marchesa bride is not dictated by

Which of your designer peers do you

trends. She is confident, elegant and bold;

most admire?

drawn to memorable details and unique

I admire Keren immensely! Her expertise

embellishments. A bridal gown should be

in textiles and the way she helps bring our

timeless, elegant and make a woman feel

designs to life is inspiring.

like the most beautiful version of herself.

What has been your most memorable fashion moment together? Watching Sandra Bullock win an Academy Award in Marchesa was by far one of the most rewarding experiences of our career. My partnership with Keren means everything to me. Our particular specialties in design complement each other perfectly. What have your years of experience taught you about how to succeed in fashion? The key to succeeding in the fashion industry is staying true to yourself and your vision for your brand. To whom would you love to pass your knowledge and expertise on? I would love to pass on my knowledge to my daughter. She enjoys coming to the showroom to watch me work and she loves to drape fabrics on the mannequins in my office. What advice do you treasure from fashion legend Isabella Blow? Isabella Blow advised Keren and me to focus our line on eveningwear. This helped us remarkably to focus our direction and vision for the Marchesa brand. What business decision are you most grateful you made? I am extremely grateful for expanding our line to bridal in 2010. A wedding dress is perhaps the most significant dress a woman will ever wear, and it is an honour to design gowns for such an important day.

Tal k ing P o i nt

TheLate

Mooners By Aishwarya Tyagi

Planning a wedding is hard work and so, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no greater joy than boarding that plane the day after, en route to the holiday of a lifetime. Why then are so many newlyweds opting to delay their honeymoons?

The Way We Were, photographed by Gilad Sasporta, MOJEH Issue 20

Oscar winner Eddie Redmayne and his bride Hannah Bagshawe delayed their honeymoon for seven months post their wedding due to work obligations, and ended up on a sun-soaked holiday in St. Tropez for a later-moon. The romantic couple spent their post-wedding holiday having long lunches and barefoot walks down the French Riviera; proving that delaying their much-awaited honeymoon was well worth the wait. What Redmayne did, however, doesn’t surprise the modern breed of working individuals, with lives busier than ever and in a time that passes faster than ever. We are, for the most part,

Is it any different than an ordinary holiday? Yes and no.

#TeamRedmayne in this debate. “Newlyweds need that seclusion after a wedding. But, with everybody’s busy schedules nowadays, it needs to be at a time when both bride and groom can truly relax and not stress about work or deadlines.” Dubai-based accessory designer and soon-to-be bride Lilian Afshar shares her plans. “I would need a getaway after showing s/

maybe there’s a big work opportunity that needs

s17 in Paris and the wedding, so my fiancé and I

to be tackled straight after the wedding. In either

have decided to escape to Tahiti, Moorea Island

case, waiting makes sense.

and Bora Bora. It’s always been my dream to

But, does waiting take away the charm of

go to Tahiti, especially to visit the Paul Gauguin

being treated like royals and wear down the

museum,” she says of her honeymoon plans.

newlywed excitement? Is it any different than

In an age of extreme globalisation in which

an ordinary holiday? Yes and no. A year from

overseas travel is as common as boyfriend jeans,

now, you know your partner better than you

most couples, especially in the UAE, have already

did two days after the wedding, making the

shared many dream holidays with each other.

honeymoon more comfortable and less nerve-

This takes away the sense of urgency, paving

wracking. Has the excitement wor n off?

way for a more laidback approach to honeymoon

Doubtful. The breathing space post-wedding

planning. Perhaps the chosen destination only

day has most likely allowed you to map out

has its on-season for two months in the year, or

a vacation that you can both love and enjoy.

Tal k ing P o i nt

Burberry s/s16

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve made borrowing from the boys an art form. Now, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re stealing our style.

Words by Natalie Trevis

Style Steal

Editor Simone Marchetti wears pastel tones in Milan

Milan street style

Women wearing menswear is nothing new. From Le Smoking to Annie Hall’s eccentric turn on celluloid, masculine tailoring and oversized silhouettes have proved a powerfully desirable weapon in a woman’s wardrobe. The runways are littered with slimline tuxedo suits and boyfriend jeans, brogues and bowties. Trends ebb and flow with a fluidity that is increasingly genderless and now, what’s good for us is good for the boys, too. Christopher Bailey mastered the lace office shirt for Burberry’s spring/summer 2016 menswear collection, while in the same season, Gucci’s he-for-she collections confirmed Alessandro Michele’s vision of an anything-goes wardrobe, in which intricate embroidery, bow-tied blouses and loose fitting trousers are fit for whoever seeks to join his bohemian rebellion. It’s hard to discuss any movement in fashion without circling back to Demna Gvasalia, whose ultra-modern attitude now pervades the boundary-busting Vetements and the storied house of Balenciaga. At Vetements, Gvasalia and the collective send both men and women down the runways (originally from necessity, when the label couldn’t find enough girls to model for it in the early days), a move that makes perfect sense when there’s barely any room to distinguish between the gender norms of a pair of floor sweeping open-front trousers worn by a chisel faced male model versus the Matrix-style leather coat of a be-hooded girl. Vetements’s loyal fans don’t care for such distinctions anyway. The trailing sleeves and beautifully gargantuan proportions of logoed bomber jackets and utility shirts are the main attraction regardless and, if it fits, it’s yours. Aside from such deliberately ambiguous collections, designers like Dries Van Noten have long tapped into a sense of opulence in menswear that was once the preserve of women. Finding a fitting home at the grand Palais Garnier in Paris, Van Noten closed the autumn/winter show with a shimmering fur trimmed jacket of bronze and golden brocade, seemingly spun from the sun itself. Every editor in the room, male and female, immediately filed a mental note on their wish lists. Never one to shy away from traditionally feminine notes, Dries Van Noten is one of a growing band of highbrow labels redefining the way men see fashion. We only have to look to the streets to see this play out in real time. Marc Jacobs joyfully sports a varsity jacket from his s/s16 womenswear collection on Instagram (a veteran at cherry picking from the best in androgynous fashion, he wore a menswear Comme des Garçons lace

J.W. Anderson

Dries Van Noten

dress to the Met Gala in 2012) and Stefano Pilati, formerly of Ermenegildo Zegna, regularly tops his tailored looks with a natty red Chanel tweed jacket. Likewise, Pharrell Williams is a longterm fan of Karl Lagerfeld’s work and has a penchant for wearing Céline with an effortlessness that mere mortals could only hope to replicate. Younger fashion vanguards – like Jaden Smith, a campaign star for Louis Vuitton womenswear s/s16 – have only ever dressed according to the fluid nature of what appeals to their everchanging aesthetic. All of these appearances, and the many others seen on a daily basis on social media, style pages and runways, dilute the notion that menswear must stay in its conservatively tailored box. We celebrate the guys joining the glorious fashion party. What we wear sends many

Lanvin

Gucci

messages – it’s just that gender is no longer one of them.

S o c i ety W o m en

Shereen Mitwalli

We meet with Egyptian-Australian businesswoman Shereen Mitwalli to find out what inspires her, and how she balances her personal life with a thriving career as a presenter and brand ambassador.

Photographed at home by Michelle at The Factory ME, words Sophie Pasztor

My Stylish Life:

Shereen wears Purificacion Garcia suit, Hermes scarf and Rolex watch.

Motto to live by: The more you educate, the less you need

something to protect my voice | Signature scent: Michael

to sell | Best advice you’ve been given: Learn to say no

Kors. It has a jasmine base, which is my favourite scent |

and prioritise yourself | Person who has taught you the

Daily beauty regime: It’s fairly easy – in the morning, I wake

most in life: My mentor in Australia, who encouraged me

up, shower and moisturise. This keeps my skin hydrated,

to get into public speaking and personal development |

especially my face. At night – the most refreshing part of

What did he teach you: Never to limit my beliefs and

my day is taking off all the makeup and moistening my skin

that people will only treat you the way you allow them to |

before bed | How do you stay in shape: By being very

Charities of choice: Micro-financing platform, Kiva.org |

busy at work. There are days I have up to 4-5 meetings.

Person you’d most like to meet: Oprah | Goal for 2016:

I also have a very fast metabolism, because I eat five

Release my new book ‘Be Heard’. It’s about effectively

meals a day, so I’m constantly burning through food for

communicating on and off stage. It’s something I’ve been

energy | Yoga or Pilates: Pilates | At-sea or in-land: Both

working on for three years | Favourite hobby: Travelling is a big priority for my husband and I. With both our schedules being hectic, it’s our opportunity to be together and learn something new | How often do you travel: We often visit at least two new destinations a year that we both haven’t been to | Next on the bucket list: Russia and Tanzania | Most cherished possession: My dog, Roxette. I still recall holding her in my palm before she could open her eyes | What do you most love about her: She’s very unique...she has a very loving and calm nature. Everyone who enters our home experiences Roxette’s love | Most exciting event in your diary for May: Not sure about May – I’m still living in April | Most recent book: Winners by Alastair Campbell | Song on repeat: Fast Car by Jonas Blue ft. Dakota | Favourite beach destination: Mykonos – I’ve had the best time specifically in Nammos, Psarou Beach. Great food and music | Ideal holiday: Being in Europe, eating good food, shopping and being outdoors | Favourite place in the world: Amalfi Coast, Italy | Best travel partners: My closest friends and my husband | Go to fashion brands: Carolina Herrera, Gucci, Chanel and high street brands; but ultimately, I will wear anything as long as it has clean lines | Your top local designer: At the moment, it would be Dee by Dalia and Kristina Fidelskaya | Heels or flats: Heels for work. Flats for the weekend | Typical work attire: Suit or tailored dress | Style icon: I have a few. Coco Chanel, Audrey Hepburn, Victoria Beckham and Kate Middleton | Signature style: Very clean and not over the top. Simple and timeless | Best city or place to shop: Australia | Go-to hairdresser: Blowout&Go | Best hair-treatment: Caviar | Favourite beauty brand: Chanel | Beauty bag essential: Lip balm and lipstick | Best health tip you’ve been given: Drink a shot of goji each morning. It’s full of antioxidants and will keep you going all day | Athome beauty solution: As I need my voice for a living, I turn to my homemade ginger concoction to strengthen and protect it. I boil ginger and water for 20 minutes and add honey. I drink this whenever I’m sick or coming down with Shereen wears Max Mara dress, Mimco bracelet and Christian Louboutin shoes.

Tal k ing P o i nt

The Antidote By Natalie Trevis

In under two years, Alessandro Michele has completely revolutionised the Italian powerhouse that is Gucci. We explore the house re-made with love by the modern day Renaissance man.

Images courtesy of Gucci. Photography by Ronan Gallagher, Kevin Tachman and Glen Luchford.

Shooting the spring/summer campaign

“Everything came naturally because it’s completely my world,” says Alessandro Michele. “I love Gucci. I knew everything about the brand and what really fascinated me.” Michele’s electric appointment in early 2015 as creative director of a label best known for its jet set glamour caused shock waves to ripple through the industry. But, having quietly learned every facet of the brand inside out during the course of 12 years inside the design studio as leather goods design director, and then associate to former creative director Frida Giannini, it’s difficult to imagine today’s Gucci with anyone other than 43-year-old Michele at the helm. Turning around his revolutionary debut menswear collection in less than a week after Giannini’s accelerated departure, Michele sent out androgynous lace tunics, bracelet-sleeved blouses and fluid tailoring in a statement that let the world know that the renaissance had begun. Building on a sense of intelligent hauteur made luxe ever since, Michele’s woman has evolved into a romantic nonconformist, much like the designer himself. The Gucci romance begins at its source: The gentle soul with an instinct for creating the must-have items we didn’t know we desired. Michele once compared doing his job with being in love with someone you can’t believe you are dating. Likewise, ‘l’aveugle par amour’ is elegantly graffitied across covetable sweatshirts, denim jackets and plaid shirts, becoming one of Michele’s many signature aphorisms. Love is blind. He trades in reawakening relics from the past, many from the Gucci archives, La Carte de Tendre dress backstage

“Modern for me is a vintage world, because modernity is a really old way to look at the future.” Alessandro Michele

from the Chinese Qing dynasty morphs into coiling silver leaves across a bottle green bomber jacket. History reincarnated. From his office in Rome (a Renaissance palazzo no less), Michele has generated an honest enthusiasm around Gucci that comes in large part from the authenticity of his approach. His designs represent his own idiosyncrasies and personal passions, but never in a way that feels indulgent. A certain intellectual philosophy and natural grace have allowed him to overcome any reticence at being thrust into the limelight – witnessed firsthand backstage at the s/s16 menswear show as Michele beamed magnanimously in the face of crushing throngs of acolytes straining to congratulate him. It is these very qualities that inure him to the petty travails of the fashion circus. It may take some time to decipher the poetic meanings expressed Alessandro Michele making final adjustments backstage

in physical form in the collections, like “the vertigo originating from overcoming the principle of noncontradiction” that explains the ‘rhizomatic’ a/ w16 collection, but it is more than worth it for the glimpse it offers into a creativity that can be

which are made contemporary by paying homage

harnessed so effectively in fashion form.

to, rather than replicating, their time and place in

A magpie when it comes to collecting antiquities (his

history. “In fashion, people are obsessed with the

favourite place in Florence being the 16th Century

future and what is ‘modern’,” says Michele. “Modern

neo-gothic Villa Torrigiani, whose aristocratic owners

for me is a vintage world, because modernity is a

he has befriended), Michele returns to ancient maps

really old way to look at the future.” His chosen

frequently. Carta Marina is a sea map of Scandinavia

motifs explode over handbags, brocade suits and

from 1572, featuring sprawling sea monsters and

intricate gowns, from bumblebees to lips to birds of

Poseidon-esque kings. Channeling the love that is

paradise, cherry blossoms and lions, bursting forth

never far from the surface, s/s16’s la Carte de Tendre

as if from “tapestries abandoned in old attics”. Each

explores tenderness as an inevitable facet of beauty.

symbol has a deeper meaning than the last, whether

Originally a French map of a land called Tendre

an obvious connection to the brand’s icons in the

that first appeared as an engraving in 17th century

interlocking double Gs or an exploration of Michele’s

novel Clélie, the map represents the path to love

obsession with animism, androgyny, orientalism and

via patience, faithfulness and respect and bypassing

codes that belong to other cultures. In his bejewelled

such obstacles as the Lake of Indifference. These

hands, an embroidered silver pheasant artefact

maps are described as ‘psycho-geographic’: A way

The Gucci resort collection captured in Paradise Found, photographed by Viki Forshee, MOJEH Issue 33

to lose oneself in a new visual dimension. And, they

the person opposite him has the same amount of

are something only Michele could actualise into a

space that he does (although he prefers in any

plunge-necked tea dress with sequined trompe

event to sit with people on the sofa)? “Alessandro

l’oeil ruffles and belt.

Michele is a phenomenon at Gucci,” said Natalie

As dreamy as Michele’s inspiration may be,

Massenet, after his British Fashion Awards win as

there’s a refreshing emphasis on dressing not a

the International Designer of 2015. “His exciting

romanticised fictional character, but a real woman.

aesthetic has made an overnight impact on global

One with contradictions and flaws, who needs a

fashion trends. It is not just that he has made the

beautiful knee length pleated skirt for work and

brand covetable and the product so desirable. He

an elevated street style approved leather jacket

has also reinvigorated the retail experience bringing

for the weekend. She can wear Gucci head-to-toe

back playfulness and magic to the flagship store.

for the ultimate insider fashion statement, or mix

This is a man who has his customers at heart and

a Gucci hero piece with a real-world wardrobe.

celebrates them.” Seeing the collections up close

Michele wants his customer to make these clothes

in the showroom, it’s hard to define a single thread

her own. How could it be otherwise from the man

to describe the whole, and that’s almost certainly

who has described choosing a double desk so that

the point. Heavily embellished, it’s easy to miss

Michele’s muses for the spring/summer campaign

the simplicity of Michele’s languid silhouettes. The

content and show production. The surrealism

clothes nod to the vintage eclecticism that is the

of the brand’s recent advertising campaigns (as

obvious first impression – each piece looks like a

far removed as it’s possible to be from the ‘sex

family heirloom awaiting eagle-eyed grandchildren

sells’ dynamic of the Tom Ford era) re-captures

– but, beyond that, there is an affection and spirit in

the imagination of a jaded luxury sector, whether a

each detailed piece that rejuvenates a joy in fashion

boy on a skateboard in a lacklustre mall holding a

that we haven’t felt for a long time.

peacock, or a bowl-haired bespectacled innocent

Each detail has meaning to Michele, perhaps

waiting with opulently embroidered luggage at

stemming from his years poring over the specifics of

a downbeat neon-lit bus station. Who are these

Gucci accessories in his former role, from the weirdly

Glen Luchford-shot characters roaming cities as an

deliberate horizontal crease in each jacket of which

intimate posse of nerdy rebels? Michele’s vision of

your mother would disapprove (the “memory” of the

his new millennial customer? We may never know,

clothing) to the signs and symbols he brings together

but that matters little when their very existence

like a modern day shaman. Michele oversees every

appeals to the inner eccentric in us all. They are

element of Gucci’s visual representation, from the

always from and of the street – a grassroots

store fit-outs to the advertising campaigns, film

inspiration Michele admits he is obsessed with. Collectible vintage-inspired jewellery is a Michele trademark

“It seems only natural to me to present my men’s and women’s collections together. It’s the way I see the world today.” Alessandro Michele

One thing is for certain: Michele’s vision, whether on film, in print, or via his #GucciGram collaborations with popular Insta artists, always looks forward into Gucci’s future, never repeating the past. “There is no room for consolatory nostalgia,” go the show notes for Michele’s debut womenswear collection in a/w15, simply “the need to reaffirm freedom.” Michele has kept the surprises coming ever since, the latest being Gucci’s announcement last month that the brand will merge the collections for men and women into one show from a/w17. It makes sense, not just from a creative perspective given Michele’s gender defying designs, but also from a commercial one, cutting down the presentations from six to four. It’s a move that fellow revolutionary Demna Gvasalia of Vetements has already made (showing during mensweek) and part of a wider wave of streamlining in the industry. “It seems only natural to me to present my men’s and women’s

Glam rock accessories the Gucci way

collections together,” says Michele. “It’s the way I see the world today. It will not necessarily be an easy path and will certainly present some challenges, but I believe it will give me the chance to move towards a different kind of approach to my storytelling.” While

While practicality might not be something

we wait to hear during which fashion week Gucci

that is an obvious driver of Michele’s work as

will present (will editors be required to travel twice

Gucci’s Renaissance man, sales at Gucci have

a season for both men’s and women’s weeks?),

nonetheless made it clear that consumers are

or perhaps off-schedule completely, President

riding this new wave of fashion with delight.

and CEO of Gucci and the man who appointed

Michele’s dreaming has given birth to the fur-

Michele, Marco Bizzarri, is confident the move

lined mule slippers that reappear each season,

will maximise the synergy Michele already draws

the ever-evolving Dionysus handbag and a

between the collections. “Alessandro Michele

collection of oversized jewels that would make

has, in fact, always presented his men’s and

Iris Apfel proud. All are clever gateway pieces the

women’s collections together, so this is a very

aspirational Gucci customer can buy into and,

natural progression,” notes Bizzarri. “Moving to

if Michele has his way, collect. The traditional

one show each season will significantly help to

Gucci hedonism might be one relic that remains

simplify many aspects of our business. Maintaining

under its dust cover during Michele’s tenure, but

two separate, disconnected calendars has been a

his unique brand of individualism has more than

result of tradition rather than practicality.”

filled its place. Long may the love affair continue.

F a sh io n F eature

Haute Hopes:

The future looks bright for couture By Gillian Brett

As ready-to-wear raises its game with ‘demi’ or ‘semi’ couture, is Haute Couture still relevant? Absolutely, says MOJEH.

Backstage at the Giles spring/summer show in Paris

Before he left Saint Laurent in March of this year, Hedi Slimane bestowed the storied French Maison with a priceless parting gift: Couture. In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent declared that couture was dead, and once Tom Ford took the reins in the early noughties, the YSL (yes, we can call it that now) haute couture atelier was completely disbanded. Yet, going by his own rules as always, Hedi Slimane has spent the past four years restoring a space inside the 17th-century mansion, Hôtel de Sénecterre, in order to facilitate a return to tradition. Comprising three separate areas — The Salon Couture, where clients will try the pieces; the Atelier Flou for dressmaking; and the Atelier Tailleur for tailoring — Slimane’s attention to detail was enormous. Thus, it really was no surprise that his final Saint Laurent collection was pure haute couture. The autumn/winter 2016 show was staged in a beautiful 18th-century house on the Rue de l’Université, to just 100 carefully selected attendees. It was conducted in bright lighting (his hallmark dark moody runway was abandoned) as models filed out precisely in the style which was standard in old haute couture houses until the 1980s. The numbers of the outfits were even called out as each girl appeared. It was widely called a ‘demi-couture’ outing, and at that proximity the quality of the clothes can’t be faked. From the the raven-wing sequins to the black ostrich coat with the pink and turquoise-painted tips, not to mention

Fragility was revealed at Christian Dior’s haute couture show through intricate lace and feathered fabrics

the extraordinary black columns and flounced tiers of the evening dresses, the collection proved that regardless of its categorisation, Slimane would be a tough act to follow. In another disruptive move this season, Azzedine Alaïa turned the fashion calendar upside down by

extends to rookie labels, too. Balmain alumna,

choosing to show his fall 2016 collection almost

Roberta Einer, presented her third collection at

an entire month after Paris Fashion Week had

London Fashion Week in February. Swathed in

drawn to a close. See-later, buy-later appeared

sequins, ribbons, beads, macramé and all manner

to be Alaïa’s counterintuitive slogan. It was,

of pretty appliqués, Einer explained that she

according to a brand spokesperson: “In order

sources the highest quality fabrics and produces

to create a more semi-couture collection, where

her intricate trimmings in the same factories as

the finishings and craftsmanship of his work

Balmain, Christopher Kane and Victoria Beckham.

can be seen and purchased in a more intimate

“I was advised to use more affordable fabrics

environment,” The message being: He needed

and to aim at the mid-market, but working under

more time to get it right, so he was taking some

Olivier [Rousteing] made me want to start well, as

more time. “We are sure this approach will be

I mean to go on with really high quality fabrics,”

embraced by our loyal clients, who know and

explained the 23-year-old. Staging an eveningwear

appreciate Mr Alaïa’s integrity to the creativity of

intervention with her elaborately decorated

fashion and a well-run business,” it continued.

dresses — that mostly come accompanied by

This sense of integrity and pride in tradition

a five-figure price tag — Einer’s uncompromising Intricate feathered details from Chanel

it’s not easy to get into. So instead, in homage to the prestigious aesthetic and the beautiful crafts of Couture, they create a few exquisite designs with techniques such as hand-embroidery or exclusive fabrics, to give them an elevated status and to indicate to the public that their design processes are of a higher quality.” And indeed, current demicouture offerings are not hard to miss: Valentino’s summer 2016 collection includes an appliquéd silk organza gown, replete with hand-painted and applied petals that took eight seamstresses eight days to make, and retails at £14,400. “Brands are filling the gap between Haute Couture prices and “basic evening wear”, and a few buyers and VIP customers will be interested in the original expensive piece, so most fashion houses will produce these pieces upon request.” In fact, so lucrative is this elevated RTW subsidiary that some ready-to-wear labels are eyeing up registered haute couture designers to guide their brand into a more luxurious direction – take Lanvin’s recent hiring of Bouchra Jarrar for example. Meanwhile other RTW designers have dropped off official fashion week schedules entirely to focus on bespoke, one-off and red carpet creations. In January, London designer Giles Deacon announced that he would not be taking part in London Fashion Week in February, and would instead show his fall Giles Deacon Hedi Slimane delivers couture in his final hour at Saint Laurent

Couture collection in Paris in July, in cooperation with the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. “We want to focus on what we do well, and maximise the success of the red carpet and private client work we’ve been doing over the past four years,” Deacon said at the time. “We

Saint Laurent defining ‘demi-couture’

vision is impressive considering her youth. And,

want to be the go-to business for super-special

it hasn’t gone unnoticed: The British Fashion

daywear and eveningwear, to focus on what we

Council included her in its prestigious NEWGEN

are known for and what our customers want

troupe (a scheme providing financial support and

from us.” Over the past four years, the brand

showcasing opportunities to emerging designers

has been making about 60 to 90 bespoke and

during London Fashion Week) for autumn/winter

couture pieces a season. The move makes sense.

2016. Pushing the boundaries of her talent by

Deacon now plans to scale that up to 200 to

using traditional techniques, Einer creates a cool,

250 pieces, with prices ranging from £3,000 to

modern version of couture-level luxury.

£5,000 for a bespoke shift in an exclusive fabric,

But, where has this middle ground between

to upwards of £50,000 to £70,000 for red carpet

couture and ready-to-wear surfaced from? “It is

pieces. Already renowned for his spectacular

very hard for [ready-to-wear] fashion brands to be

shows set in dramatic locations that bordered

accepted into the Chambre Syndicale de La Haute

on couture, Deacon confessed an urge to create

Couture,’ explains Farah Mounzer, buying manager

“a couture brand for the 20th century, using

at By Symphony. ‘It’s the only institution with the

craftsmanship, workmanship — and technology”.

power to name a fashion designer a couturier, and

Deacon’s definition of making something “super

Giles spring/summer 2016

special” is putting the reality of Haute Couture

in celebration of nature. Shaved woodchips were

production mildly. And, herein lies the cavernous

woven into the maison’s signature boucle suits,

difference between it and demi-couture. Take

which were festooned with twinkling bug brooches.

Chanel Haute Couture for example. Guests

No ready-to-wear show could ever quite top that

never quite know what to expect when they walk

level of intricate detail or outlandish theatrics.

into a Chanel fashion show, especially since Karl

For any prospective brides, the couture shows

Lagerfeld has created a feminist rally, a life-size

also serve as an aspirational dream. The world of

faux supermarket, a fully-functional brasserie and

bridal couture is shrouded in secrecy, with fashion

a sprawling art gallery (filled with Chanel-inspired

houses understandably respecting the privacy of

works) as his sets in seasons past. During Couture

their clients, but the output is deliciously visible

Week, the designer always raises the stakes —

as each haute couture show typically features one

pun intended — and for the fall 2015 couture

statement bridal gown. British couture designers

show, he constructed a bustling casino inside

Ralph & Russo closed their SS16 show with

of the Grand Palais. For spring/summer 2016,

one of the most spectacular wedding gowns in

he transformed the Grand Palais into an energy

couture history. Isabeli Fontana towed a dress

efficient zone, where a wooden-slatted modernist

with a 10ft train, which was so long that it required

house was positioned on a huge manicured lawn

six atelier staff to turn it at the end of the runway.

Backstage at Christian Dior’s haute couture show

Just moments before Ralph & Russoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spring/summer 2016 unveiling

Saint Laurent autumn/winter 2016

In couture, there is a sense of close knit community and a level of passion that pushes design teams into unimaginable realms.

The gown has a total of 826 metres of tulle and 46 metres of organza, with millions of microbeads, crystal, pearls, delicately shaped organza flowers and three dimensional petals that were all hand-embroidered onto the gown. Reportedly, more than 50 embroiderers clocked up 6,000 accumulative hours to finish the dress in time. The labour that goes into couture is astounding, and the couturiers themselves are a remarkably talented and remarkably unrecognised group. Since Raf Simons left Dior last October, the couture output of the maison has not faltered, having been left in the capable hands of its long serving Swiss studio directors, Serge Ruffieux, 41, and Lucie Meier, 32. Elsewhere, in a north-eastern suburb of Paris, there is a workshop collective called ‘Paraffection’ that is owned by Chanel, but used by all of the leading couture houses. The name translates as ‘for the love of’ and indeed, the hours that are put into these workshops is flooring. Individually, they are named Lesage, Lemarié, Goossens, Massaro, Lognon, and are all gathered under one roof in a modern but rather nondescript building. The bright, airy rooms are filled with expert craftsmen, who are each utterly devoted to their artform, be it embroidery, costume jewellery, button-making or techniques such as pleating, or working with materials like feathers. Lemarié is the feather workshop, and in 1990, there were over 300 feather specialists based in Paris. Today, only

Giles turns its focus to couture, expending its use of exclusive fabrics and concentrating attention on expert craftsmanship.

it remains and thus, has become the go-to for feather-frothed creations for Valentino, Alexander McQueen and Chanel, who take up the lion’s share of its expertise and time with about 80 per cent of its commissions. As well as working with feathers, Lemarié crafts fabric flowers. Each of

Amal Clooney’s wedding dresses, and the tulle for

Chanel’s trademark camellia flowers is handmade

Angelina Jolie’s embroidered veil.

by Lemarié specialists; some 40,000 per year.

In couture, there is a sense of close knit community

Even the simplest flower, composed of petals

and a level of passion that pushes design teams

stamped out with metal cookie-cutters in organza,

into unimaginable realms. Even when it makes a

takes roughly 30 minutes to make.

light-hearted foray into streetwear, couture does

Chanel’s reputation for investing in small artisan

so with devotion: It took 30 hours of work to

producers is admirable. Especially in the way

make each pair of Chanel’s couture sneakers

that rather than absorbing these brands into

and Maison Martin Margiela’s studio team spent

the business, Chanel encourages them to retain

22 hours making just one of their couture t-shirts

autonomy and work with other designers — even

with fabric appliqués. So, whether you’re gliding

creating pieces for direct competitors of the house.

down the aisle in a Ralph & Russo wedding dress,

It has just recently become a minority investor

or skipping through the streets in lace Chanel

in French lacemaker Sophie Hallette’s parent

couture sneakers, you can be rest assured

company, GroupeHolesco — the lacemaker that

that the level of expertise and love that went

created fabric for the Duchess of Cambridge and

into hand-making both is exactly the same. Couture details from Bouchra Jarrar

s e a s o nal s ty le

The

Precious Pa i r i n g s

This wedding season, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re seeing a shift toward modern versions of rose and gold accessories. Reflecting the mood of the contemporary bride, the fail-safe colours continue to delight in an abundance of new shapes and styles.

Try shades of rose gold with cage strapped heels for a modern day romance, and bring in Art Deco details with Fendiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cat-eyed sunglasses. Clutch, EDIE PARKER at Harvey Nichols Dubai | Sunglasses, FENDI | Shoes, SOPHIA WEBSTER at Harvey Nichols Dubai | Bracelet, W. BRITT at Harvey Nichols Dubai

Phase out minimalistic jewels for declarative pieces like Alexander McQueenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s butterfly cuff and Gucciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s intricate monkey earrings. Try mixing mediums by pairing distressed gunmetal with vibrant yellow gold, weathered rhodium with polished copper and soft rose gold with oxidised silver. Earrings, GUCCI | Cuff, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN at Harvey Nichols Dubai

Photographer by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, words and styling by Sophie Pasztor

Break away from the preconceived notion of classic flora and introduce obscurity to your accessories. Explore tainted trimmings that showcase dark shades of black with gilded details. Clutch, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Step up your eveningwear with shimmering, diamond embellishments that will work to ornately decorate your heels. Look for styles that incorporate laser cut-outs for a modernist spin on traditional varieties. Shoes, SERGIO ROSSI at Harvey Nichols Dubai

Switch out oversized bags for sideswiping assortments, while channelling contemporary bohemia for a daytime garden affair. Incorporate exotic skins in neutral shades to introduce organic elements. Top to bottom: Bag, CHLOĂ&#x2030; | Bag, CĂ&#x2030;LINE

S o c i ety B elles

Opulent Ambition

Reem Juan, her designs infused with an oldHollywood sensibility that becomes a new kind of classic by virtue of unexpected cutouts and form-fitting silhouettes. A fusion of modernity and the romance of another era, her visions are much like the designer herself, who is quietly spoken and unfailingly hospitable, plying us with snacks and smiling with good grace for the camera. She has shipped half the spring/summer 2016 collection to Abu Dhabi to offer us a first hand look, and when it arrives, we lift out the pieces, each more beautiful than the last, like Christmas has come early. “You would recognise my pieces by their exquisite embroidery,” she tells us. “We only do hand embroidery. Every collection has a story, so whenever you see a collection that speaks to you, it is Reem Juan.” Defying the traditional notion of a London-based label as urban and self-consciously experimental, Juan

Words by Natalie Trevis

Amidst the clamour of emerging labels demanding our attention, we find the quietly serene Reem Juan – the Abu Dhabi designer making sophisticated modern eveningwear under her eponymous London label.

Softly-hued luxury is the name of the game at

At home with designer Reem Juan, photographed by Michelle at The Factory ME

Decadent details from Reem Juan s/s16 collection

instead distils her ideas, whether the work of Frida Kahlo, poetry written by her mother or even shades of ice cream, into a prettiness that never strays into the saccharine. “Timeless,” she muses, “I think it depends into every designer’s style, but this is the part of my personality that I imbibe into my designs. Whoever wants to get

I like things to be clean and organised, I’m a

to know me, once they see the pieces, they

perfectionist and I pay my respects to a woman

understand my character. These are the things

by giving her a dress that is fully finished. I get

I like to wear and I would also like to dress other

inspiration from everywhere, but in the beginning,

ladies in a softer and more elegant way that is

it’s here in the UAE.”

not too over the top.”

It’s clear that there’s another aspect to Juan’s

Born and raised in Abu Dhabi, Juan studied

inspiration trips home, and that is her Jordanian

design at ESMOD Dubai, before transferring to

mother. Spoken about often, she crops up in

the London College of Fashion; from there, she

conversation time and again in the guise of a

built her label in 2010, incidentally connecting her

mentor, ally and muse. “It started when I was 11

two worlds in the process. “I’m trying to combine

years old. I used to watch my mum – she was

both tastes – the British fashion taste within

my inspiration, to be honest – how she dresses

the more conservative lines of the Middle East,

up. To me, she is a muse. She’s an elegant lady

merging them both. But, this is unintentional; it’s

and always dreamed of being a fashion designer.

not on purpose, maybe because me being there

She’s now a poet and an artist, and whatever she

is naturally influencing me.” Dividing her time

writes, it gives me this creative flow. She pushes

between London and the UAE doesn’t faze Juan

me – it’s like someone is injecting me with ideas

in the slightest and instead brings home how

through her writing. We sit until morning and just

globalising any new line in a saturated industry

talk and talk about stories and personalities. Last

is not simply an advantage, but a necessity.

season, it was about Frida Kahlo, so we have

“I split my year,” notes Juan calmly. “I stay in

been talking about her paintings.” This artistic

the UAE when I’m designing – this is my time

input, translated into laser-sharp focus on fit,

sketching and seeking inspiration – and go to

finishing and quality fabrics (Juan gives us a

London to make everything happen, to produce.

glimpse of some shimmer flecked Hermès fabric

I really care about finishing; sometimes, I care

paired with soft pinks that form the beginnings of

more about the inside than the outside even.

autumn/winter 2016), Reem Juan doesn’t need

How to finish a zip is a big story for me, how to

to shout about her label. Sometimes, the clothes

finish a pocket… everything has French seams.

you really want to wear speak for themselves.

W o ma n o f S ty le

Designer, Rosetta Getty

Married to Brothers & Sisters actor and philanthropist Balthazar Getty (a great grandson of oil tycoon J. Paul Getty), Rosetta was raised by bohemian artist parents in Silver Lake, Los Angeles, in the Seventies. Travelling, spirituality and freedom were the cornerstones of Getty’s upbringing and she began sewing and sketching at a young age. “At 15, I fell into modelling and got the opportunity to travel and work with incredible photographers like Bruce Weber,” Getty recalls. “Being immersed in the industry early certainly informed my desire to pursue fashion in some capacity. Modelling was never my passion, but it did introduce me to the parts of it that I still love.” With such

L.A. Attitude By Natalie Trevis

stellar beginnings, it’s little wonder Getty went on to set up her first line, Rosetta Millington Kids, by the age of 21, turning to womenswear under the name Riser Goodwyn in 2007, designing bespoke red carpet gowns for a gaggle of Hollywood friends. Getty’s namesake brand Rosetta Getty debuted in 2014, a new outlet for her obsession with free-spirited precision design. “I wanted to create the pieces that I felt were missing in my own wardrobe and develop that into a collection of easy, luxury options

Serene, minimalist and mindful, Rosetta Getty epitomises the Californian way of life.

for women. I was able to get my bearings in the industry through my previous companies, but this is much more personal and true to my own style.” It’s rare that a clothing line comes along that is a true reflection of its creator’s style persona – think about the many designers who take a bow clad in sneakers

The Rosetta Getty philosophy is less about big

and everyday black – but Rosetta Getty is

statements and more about living every day with

the result of a lifelong obsession with detail.

a powerful yet subtle style. Fluid silhouettes –

Compelling for day and night, the clothes are

taking form in slip dresses, collarless coats,

aspirational, yet grounded in the necessary

tunics and open-sided aprons – sculpted in silk,

realism that a busy working mother, wife and

crepe and cashmere share an aesthetic with

businesswoman possesses. “I am definitely

other quietly chic powerhouses, like Hermès,

the best advocate for the brand, because I do

Lemaire and The Row. “Minimalism can carry

truly wear it everyday.”

a lot of weight in its simplicity, “ cites Getty,

Hollywood has proved a constant in Getty’s life.

almost as a mantra for all facets of life. “It might

Not only does Balthazar work in the industry,

seem very basic, but there’s a lot that can be

but her friends are made up of a circle of actors

expressed in clothing design with simple lines,

including Courteney Cox, Demi Moore and

silhouettes and textures. For instance, even with

childhood best friend Patricia Arquette, whom

a monochromatic palette, you can experiment

Getty dressed in a monochrome asymmetric

with fabrics and create a lot of depth. I find it

gown for Arquette’s Oscar win and memorable

clean and appealing – this is true also of my

wage gap speech at last year’s Academy

personal style and my home.”

Awards. “I’ve been lucky to see some beautiful,

Spring/summer 2016

talented women in my clothes, like Patricia Arquette, Alicia Vikander, Dakota Johnson and Marisa Tomei,” says Getty. “I design with a lot of respect for how women want to dress and that’s reflected in the designs.” Getty lives on Mulholland Drive with Balthazar and her four children in a home she has spent years perfecting, the result as pristinely styled and welcoming as the clothes she designs. “California has always been home, so naturally, the collections are infused with a West Coast sensibility. One of the biggest influences is the weather here and how that impacts the fabrics. It’s easy to speak to the L.A. lifestyle, but there are more direct relationships to the clothing. For instance, I have a wool tartan that I brought back for pre-fall 2016 that is seasonally fluid. It translates for spring and fall, which makes it a perfect, versatile wardrobe addition.” By looking to address the freedom of an L.A. lifestyle, Getty also captures the style of the modern internationalist. “A lot of the kaftan and tunic silhouettes were developed as travel attire. In that sense, they do need to have global appeal, because my hope is that they go with women all over the world. In the digital age, it’s much easier to be part of a universal conversation about style.” With a knack for extracting drama from the humdrum, Getty looks to real life inspirations to channel into graceful draping and textural combinations that need to be touched to be believed. Strong women such as artist Louise Bourgeois, Betty Parsons and actress Romy Schneider offer perennial inspiration to Getty, who could be described among their ranks as a visual creative who has herself shown fortitude under media scrutiny into her personal life. “These women had a point of view and knew what style suited their lives. For fall, I looked to the work of [Belgian film director] Chantal Akerman and consider her a muse for the collection. Stills from her amazing films are still up in the studio.”An expression of daring ease and simplicity in the most luxurious textiles, Getty’s tightly edited designs give us an effortless wardrobe for night, work and play. “I know what I’m trying to express with my brand and it’s not hard to keep that focus when I keep a tight circle around my design process.”

MET â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MORPHIC

se a s o n al s ty le

VIONNET

With the biggest events of the season gleaming in the distance, now is the time for show stopping style. Pay homage to the finer references of mechanics in fashion with angular accessories and gleaming metallic accents. A play on proportion and careful layering can have metamorphic results.

1 2 3 4 5 6

SOMETHING NEW

AKRIS

Brush aside the rules of conventional attire with a fresh colour palette and modern tailoring. Lightweight jackets in misty rose and fresh pressed trousers evoke an elegant nonchalance, while flat footwear and silk turbans offer a contemporary edge.

2 3 4

F a sh i o n F eatu re

She’s a Man Repeller As fashion shifts from minimalism to maximalism, Italian labels are spearheading a whole new aesthetic, even as the ‘Man Repeller’ look starts to reign.

By Susan Devaney

Gucci

72 Bold and bright colours are showcased by a street style star

Matchesfashion.com. “Brands such as Marques Almeida, Ellery, Marco de Vincenzo, Isa Arfen, Vetements, Joshua Sanders and Wales Bonner all have a strong viewpoint and distinct signature style, which our customer loves.” Man Repeller, a fashion website founded and written by American businesswoman and writer Leandra Medine, has built a successful career out of the idea of ‘man-repelling’ clothing since launching five years ago. A Man Repeller, Medine explains on the site, is “she who outfits herself in a sartorially offensive mode that may result in repelling members of the opposite sex. Such garments include, but are not limited to harem pants, boyfriend jeans, overalls, shoulder

Oversized clothing

pads, full-length jumpsuits, jewellery that resembles violent weaponry and clogs”. The phrase is becoming a buzzword, and women are having fun with it. We’re taking delight in wearing clothes with a complete disregard for the male gaze. Do we care? Or – more importantly – should we care? No. Fashion is having fun with maximalism, as we move away from the more serious silhouette of minimalism. It’s a new look where anything goes. Celebrities such as Alexa Chung and Chloë Sevigny achieve the trend with ease. Think slouchy dungarees with a pair of Converse and cateye sunglasses in neon orange? Or, a pink man’s oversized shirt with Seventies’ style glitter-laden platforms and perfectly patched high-waisted cropped jeans. The key to success lies in the styling. Layering and clashing

cheerful disregard for the male gaze is

style setter Dalia Nsouli believes will

about all things new since Phoebe

spreading. A new sex appeal has been

be adopted without fault in the Middle

Philo started turning her hand at Céline

born in the form of the ‘Man Repeller’.

East. “I think we’re much better

in 2008. You can see it on the runway:

“Whilst there will always be a place

positioned to accommodate the new

From brilliant balloon shapes at Marni

in your wardrobe for clean lines

trend because I think we’ve always

and a kaleidoscopic colour palette

and a simple silhouette, it has been

favoured ‘more’ to less. For example,

at Prada to chaotic clashing prints

refreshing to see a shift away from

the simple pyjama trend never took off

at Marco de Vincenzo. You can see

the minimalist looks and neutral colour

in the Middle East; neither did other

it in the silhouettes: Hemlines have

palette that has been prevalent for so

more minimalist trends because it’s

dropped and necklines have become

long – designers are looking to engage

not what really appeals to the local

higher. Retro pieces – such as the

and inspire and offer the consumer a

tastes here. Arabs like the louder

turtleneck, pussy bow blouses and

point of difference – whether with new

more bold pieces as opposed to the

spectacles – have all shaken off their

shapes, bold colours or interesting

simple lines proffered in the West, so

stuffy connotations and embraced

textures and colours clash,” says

the next couple of seasons should do

a modern makeover. Moreover, a

Natalie Kingham, Buying Director at

very well here,” she said.

Photographs courtesy of Anna Palermo and Valentina Frugiuele

are common ground. It’s a trend that Women haven’t been this excited

Patterns are a strong component of the trend

But, the unthinkable has happened: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Man repellingâ&#x20AC;? has stormed Milan. The city has long been the home of full-on sex appeal. From figurehugging dresses that have often been associated with Versace to leggy ensembles at Roberto Cavalli, the Italians invented sex appeal. But, has fashion turned its back on our traditional sense of sexiness? One man has turned the tables: Alessandro Michele for Gucci. A label that once flirted with a slick, dark and glossy world is now channelling the vision of Renaissance princesses and French philosophers. The label had been stagnating both commercially and creatively in recent years. Michele was presented with the challenge of declining sales and an out-dated aesthetic. But, against all odds, his first show for autumn/winter 15 was met with an outpouring of love, and

Stella Jean

Marco de Vincenzo

76 sales are up. Michele has come up trumps with a better than expected five percent rise in sales for the final three months of 2015. “With its decidedly nostalgic and retro mood, we absolutely loved this collection and knew it would appeal to our customers for the same reasons. I love the romantic and kooky spirit of the collection and Alessandro perfectly encapsulated the mood of the season with his offbeat prints, clashing colours and retro accessories – I think we will be seeing a lot more of this in the coming seasons. We have found women wanting those easy-towear pieces that can be effortlessly worn day-to-evening with a simple accessory update,” said Kingham. He brought back the double G logo, a romantic vision of an Italian aristocrat, and much more.

Fendi

A street style star indulges in a head-to-toe Gucci ensemble

What Philo has done for Céline, Michele has started to achieve on

Max Mara

the same level at Gucci. And, it’s spreading. “This season is for the true romantics with unapologetically feminine

ankle-length

dresses

from Erdem or Marques Almeida’s deconstructed ruffled chiffon pieces. Our customers have embraced this new romantic austerity as it feels fresh and new and a more modern way to wear the ruffles, bows and lace. A tiered skirt is the silhouette of choice, whilst there is still an unexpected masculine edge to this trend at Oscar de la Renta and Proenza Schouler with the contrasting black ribbon detail,” says Kingham. It’s all very romantic, but with a whole lot of gusto. For spring/summer 16, Marc Jacobs

Pussy bow blouses have been given a modern makeover

clashed prints and patterns with a multitude of textures. Retro grannystyle cardigans were given a rebirth with opulent sequin bows. Artistrylike doodles were splashed across dresses, coats and jumpers – with simple lace panels. And what about Emilio Pucci? Massimo Giorgetti’s second collection for the house for autumn/winter 16 showcased an entirely different aesthetic that’s been previously associated with the house. Activewear formed the cornerstone of the entire collection, but everything was oversized, with high necklines and strong patterns. Subtlety didn’t get a look in. At Fendi, for autumn/ winter 16, the home of opulent fur coats, this season’s mink has been decorated with flowers and stripes, and is worn with a dressing-gown belt. At Versace, Donatella played with a sportswear theme – high necks, elastic

now, minimalism will be back with

I’m wearing a little bit more when I’m

hairbands and slightly business-like.

a vengeance,” says Brent Luvvas,

hanging out with my girlfriends; fashion

Dolce & Gabbana let flowers take

a visual and cultural anthropologist

is our badge of honour, right? It’s the

on whole new realm in height and

based in Philadelphia. “The truth is that

male equivalent of wearing a jersey to

dimension as they engulfed coats.

western women’s fashion has always

root for your favourite sports team and

It’s like designers have dipped into

been at least as concerned with the

bond with like-minded fans,” Leandra

their childhood dressing up boxes,

sensuous pleasure of the garments

Medine recently said. According to

making retro look playfully modern.

themselves as with the desire such

Forbes.com, women now control $20

“I think the shift between minimalism

garments may evoke in others.” It’s

trillion in annual consumer spending

and maximalism is just the fashion

long been a topic of discussion. Do

globally. So, is it any wonder we want

cycle progressing as usual. Some

women dress for men or for other

a little fun with our fashion? Playing

designers, and a certain portion of

women? The fact that we take more

with our basic instincts, shifting

their customer base, are getting bored

pleasure in receiving a compliment

from minimalism to maximalism, the

of the whole minimalist thing and are

about our outfit choice from a woman

‘Man Repeller’ and her newfound

pushing against it. A few years from

says it all.“Maybe I think through what

sex appeal is only getting started.

F a sh i o n I ns ig ht

Finding Calm in the Chaos By Susan Devaney

Calling upon Mother Nature, Karl Lagerfeld created his very own ecosystem for Chanel Haute Couture by turning our attention to the world and its woes.

All was calm in the summer bright. Climbing towards the sky, a Norwegian three-storeyed country house (with an Eastern feel) was erected. In its surroundings, lush green grass mounts were visible and a turfed catwalk positioned in the middle took centre stage – with tiny flies swarming the runway and a delightful lily pond. It was very green, very serene and Karl’s way of capturing a precious moment of calmness in the chaos. “Sustainability is currently a fashion topic and an expression of our time,” declared Lagerfeld, referring to the Zen-like and energy efficient zone in the glass-roofed Grand Palais in Paris. Sustainable fashion has been a hot topic in the fashion industry for quite a while now – raising decipherable questions such as: How do we initiate these changes to protect the environment around us? Who will be the first big luxury house to make that pivotal move? But, maybe Karl’s nod to nature is more than just that. Couture is the archetype of slow fashion. There’s an eco-lesson to be learnt in sourcing materials responsibly, keeping clothes that should last a lifetime and taking our time to enjoy fashion – something that ready-to-wear is currently struggling to strike a balance with. Away from the chaos, Chanel couture pushed editors, buyers, stylists and more to contemplate. Wood was a cornerstone for the entire collection, taking its shape in many forms. Delicate wooden

80 Combined with the matching bustier dress, the embroidery alone took over 1,000 hours to complete.

tiles were constructed into a mosaic long vest, worn over a silver satin blouse and a tweed skirt. And, structured wooden shaven scallops formed a scrim over shoulders, and edged the hems of underskirts – all made and painted by hand comprising over 800 hours of work. This feeling of serenity was only further extended through the muted colour palette. “Gabrielle Chanel was the queen of beige,” said Lagerfeld, whose palette moved from straw and sand to taupe – the ideal shade for a spring wardrobe and a lifelong Chanel suit. The sleeves were given an exaggerated oval shape and tweed skirts featured fragments of shaved wood woven in. This waste-not-want-not attitude took hold of the wedding look, too. A dream-like tufted hoodie, dress and train – all “made from wild cotton” – looked cosy and comfortable, a theme conveyed throughout. “This is high-fashion ecology,” Lagerfeld said backstage. “It must not look like some sloppy demonstration!” Sloppy is certainly not the word to describe his ecocouture creations, or bridal dress. Made by the hands of atelier Flou Olivia, the hooded blouson jacket, comprised geometric lace and tufts of embroidered chiffon, featured 11 jewelled buttons and oval sleeves. Combined with the matching bustier dress, the embroidery alone took over 1,000 hours to complete. The quality is of the highest standard possible. Karl’s ecological ruse claimed the bee as a motif, embroidered throughout the collection in gold. The colour shimmered throughout eveningwear too. Tiny flecks of the shade were woven through

The making of Look 73, The Wedding Dress. Hooded jacket, strapless dress and long removable train in geometric lace with strips of gathered lace and crystal rhinestones, pieces of leather, pearls, beads and baguette beads in wood.

tweed suits and airy lamé capes sparkled,

Bertrand Guyon spoke of “today enjoying a great

breezing through the wind from the shoulders of

meal with friends may strangely become an act of

white trouser-suits – or painted and embellished

resilience”. And then, there was Donatella Versace,

in twinkling rhinestones. Dresses had sleeves

and her celebration of reaching for “the strength

embroidered with feathered bees, or chirpy wooden

to overcome obstacles”. Maybe being one with

birds and petal appliques. Crystal dragonflies,

nature is Karl’s first step towards harmony.

bees, and other bugs posed as brooches, earrings

Couture – very expensive clothes for the very few

and shoes (two-tone cork wedge heels in white

– can seem like a world unto itself. But, a world

satin with lace toes), all taken from the growing

that is in complete opposition to fast fashion.

green garden. Animals were even welcomed to

It takes infinite hours to complete, puts quality

the show. Chanel ambassador Cara Delevingne

over quantity, and the consumers buy a piece

showed up carrying a new puppy in her arms.

with the intention of keeping it for a lifetime. And,

Chanel wasn’t the only fashion house thinking

what will become of the doll-like wooden house?

about the environment and the state of the world at

A spokeswoman for Chanel said it would all be

this moment in time. In light of the recent terrorist

recycled after the show, and composted. And the

attacks in the City of Light in November last year,

couture clothes? They’ll be passed down from one

designers spoke of the world’s woes and an age

generation to the next, to be loved and treasured,

of troubling times. At Schiaparelli, creative director

never finding their way to the bottom of a landfill.

Jumpsuit and belt, ELIE SAAB | Shoes, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

R e v o l u t i o n a ry

Ro a d Take a trip out of the ordinary with sherbet-toned eveningwear that defies expectations. Lace jumpsuits, architectural cut-outs and metallic details give strength to pastel shades of lilac and ice blue. Dress for the ultimate escape.

Photographed by NORBERT KNIAT Styled by NATALIE TREVIS

Dress, RAMI AL ALI | Choker and rings, PAULA MENDOZA at Symphony

Jacket, CHANEL | Earrings, MIU MIU

Dress, CAROLINA HERRERA

Dress, JENNY PACKHAM at Symphony

Cape, NOON BY NOOR | Shoes, STELLA MCCARTNEY

Dress, jacket, earrings and ring, GUCCI

Dress, AMATO COUTURE

Dress, AMATO COUTURE | Ring, OSCAR DE LA RENTA | Sandals, SANTONI

Jacket and shirtdress, MIU MIU | Shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Model: Malgosia at MMG Models Hair and makeup artist: Manuel Losada With special thanks to SSS Garage, Dubai

Art

A Hidden Photographed by ANTHONY ARQUIER Styled by GEMMA BEDINI

French film noir meets Fellini and leaves us with a penchant for neat capes, dark clashing textures and reflective surfaces, all with an added dash of mystique. Attach your own tale to the handcrafted artistry of metallic embroidery and intricate lacework.

Black and chinĂŠ fantasy tweed suit with a gallon pellicule trim | Black tights throughout | White and black lambskin pearled sandals | Silver strass cuffs with a golden ring, CHANEL

Orange and beige fantasy tweed coat | Orange, beige and cream tweed lI Quadrato Chanel bag | Black shoes | Golden necklace, CHANEL

Black, green and brown tweed suit with a gallon pellicule trim | Black, green and brown tweed pants | Two-tone lambskin mules with pearl detail, CHANEL

Long black buttoned lace coat with a knot detail | Golden metal cuff with strass ring |â&#x20AC;¨Golden metal cuffs |â&#x20AC;¨Golden metal earrings with strass ring, CHANEL

Two-tone lambskin mules with pearl detail | Black and white resin minaudiĂ¨re bag |â&#x20AC;¨Long golden and white pearl necklaces, CHANEL

Coral, orange and beige tweed dress | Coral, orange and beige tweed cape | Two-tone lambskin mules with pearl detail | Golden metal cuff with strass ring | Golden bracelet with a pearled ring, CHANEL

Grey wool frill dress | Golden pearl hoops earrings | Golden metal cuffs | Black shoes, CHANEL

Black and white organza top with black goose feathers | Long black lambskin skirt | Long golden and white pearl necklaces | Brooch with strass, CHANEL

Model: Nadine Stritmatter at Next Models Management Casting director: Mathilde Hesse Videographer: Julien Faucher Makeup artist: Cyril Laine Hair stylist: Yumiko Hikage Production: Louis Agency

Modern Musing Join the culture club with unexpected volumes, origami draping and sculptural accessories that prove that colour neednâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be the only talking point. The modern bloomsbury set provide our inspiration and ensure that an enquiring mind and sense of sartorial curiosity reigns supreme.

Photographed by ALICE ROSATI Styled by JAMES V. THOMASâ&#x20AC;¨

Dress, shirt and choker, MIU MIU | Earrings, CARTIER | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Dress, SACAI | Earrings, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Dress, BALENCIAGA | Earrings, CARTIER | Tights, FALKE  | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

118

Dress, SAINT LAURENT | Gloves, MAISON FABRE | Earring, LANVIN | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, GIVENCHY

Dress, PROENZA SCOULER | Crop top, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Bracelet and purse, BALENCIAGA | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Dress, LANVIN | Necklace and earrings, BVLGARI | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, GIVENCHY

122

Dress, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Bangle, LEMAIREâ&#x20AC;¨| Earrings, BOTTEGA VENETTA

Dress, BALENCIAGAâ&#x20AC;¨| Earring, BVLGARI

Boots, MIU MIU

Dress, LANVIN | Trousers, LOEWE | Belt, ZANA BAYNE | Ring and earrings, LOUIS VUITTON | Shoes, GIANVITTO ROSSI

126

Dress and blouse, SACAI | Skirt and shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Tights, FALKE | Necklace, ANNELISE MICHELSON

Model: Frida Munting at Oui Management Makeup artist: Ai Choi  Hair stylist: Christos Vourlis  Assistant stylist: Emil Kosuge  Production: Louis Agency Special thanks to Roméo By Claude Dalle 208, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75012

R T he N ew Rom a nt i c s The jewels of spring multiply in intricate blooms of their own, shining their multi-hued light on the stark white layers of the season. Foster a sense of playfulness and banish minimalism in favour of joyful excess.

Photographed by SPELA KASAL Styled by JAMES V. THOMAS

Earrings and ring, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Top, J.W. ANDERSON

Earrings and bracelet, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Top, J.W. ANDERSON

Earrings and bracelet, CHANEL | Dress, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Top, COURREGES

Brooch, CHANEL | Dress, CÃ&#x2030;LINE

Necklace and bracelet, BVLGARI | Dress, GIVENCHY

Necklace, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Waistcoat and dress, LANVIN

Earrings and bracelet, CHANEL | Top, JULIEN DAVID

Earrings, bracelet and ring, CARTIER | Coat, MIU MIU | Top, COURREGES

Model: Elena Bartels at Supreme Management Hair stylist: Tomoko Ohama at Calliste Agency Makeup artist: Eny Whithead at Calliste Agency Videographer (film on MOJEH.com): Flavio Starita Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Christophe Schumacher Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Emil Kosuge Production: Louis Agency

138

HIGH NOTES

A.F. VANDEVORST

NEW MYSTIQUE Exotic stones take centre stage as healing labradorite meets clairvoyant turquoise to form pieces seeped in a multitude of cultural beliefs and mystical allure. Allow the vivacious energy of ruby earrings to guide you as delicately plaited timepieces in rose gold and fine diamonds add a feminine charm.

1. GIAMPIERO BODINO | 2. POMELLATO | 3. MESSIKA | 4. JAEGER-LECOULTRE | 5. PIAGET

140

ARMANI PRIVÃ&#x2030;

EVENING BEAUTY Reminiscent of deep-sea treasures, the new wave of high jewellery comes in slender shapes and intriguing colour formations. Let glittering diamonds set against polished pearls adorn your wrist for intimate gatherings or social affairs, as polished silver and intertwining rings cast an ethereal spell.

1. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 2. GEMFIELDS | 3. CHANEL | 4. PIAGET | 5. SAMMIE JO COXON

142

Tal k ing P o i nt

Ice Princess photographed by Antoine & Balthazar, MOJEH Issue 25

From top to bottom: GIAMPIERO BODINO | MOUAWAD | MAISON DAUPHIN

Death of the

DiamonD Unique, rare and precious. In our search for that exceptional piece of jewellery for life, could we be witnessing the death of the traditional diamond?

By Natalie Trevis

144 Whispered by Marilyn Monroe, ‘diamonds

are certainly unique stones in their

to prevent diamond prices from dropping

are a girl’s best friend’ is a notion

transparency and in the way they catch

below where they were a decade ago

ingrained in our social consciousness.

light under different circumstances,” says

(although prices rose for the first time

Whether an engagement, the birth of

Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld,

since 2008 just last month). Whether

a child or to mark the passing of time,

designer at Maison Dauphin, “but, they

a sign of a longer-term global trend of

some of the biggest moments in a

also symbolise eternity.” Yet, as the

diamonds losing their allure or simply a

woman’s life are celebrated with the gift

modern customer demands variety and

fluctuation driven by economic factors,

of a sparkling fragment of pure carbon.

individualism in every aspect of her

inflated expectations of the growth in

But, it wasn’t always so. Diamonds

life (as well as value for her money),

demand for diamonds has not helped,

weren’t popular among the masses until,

she is turning to customised settings,

reports Bain. “There will always be

after two decades of slow diamond sales,

vintage designs and colourful gems to

demand for diamonds,” says Fred

De Beers devised a winning advertising

distinguish herself. Is the diamond as

Mouawad, guardian of the Mouawad

campaign in the Thirties, together with

much a vintage relic as the Hollywood

diamond division and one of the richest

some savvy celebrity placements that

golden age that gave it life?

diamond business owners in the world,

convinced the public that A Diamond

Falling demand for diamonds in markets

“but the challenge in sustaining this

Is Forever. Diamond sales rose 55

such as the United States and China has

demand lies in creating something that

percent in four years and the jewel

put pressure on the $80 billion dollar

is more than simply jewellery. It is about

morphed into the ultimate expression

industry in recent years, with prices down

creating experiences, moments of joy,

of love. Like a tree falling in a remote

by nearly 25 percent in 2015 according

and excellence of craftsmanship that

forest, does an engagement without a

to consulting firm Bain & Company. Mine

make an item worth cherishing for years

diamond ring really exist? “Diamonds

owners like De Beers have been unable

to come.” In emerging markets, in which overall wealth continues to rise, the diamond is faring better as a traditional marker of affluence. “In the Middle

BVLGARI necklace, Treasures of Our Time, photographed by Nicolas Menu, MOJEH Jewellery & Watches Issue 01

East, we see consumption rising,” says Mouawad. “Of course, on a global level, there will always be slight fluctuations as a number of markets such as China have the ability to impact global figures. In the Middle East, I think that the outlook for diamond jewellery consumption is positive and will continue to be so.” The rising popularity of coloured gemstones means that the diamond is no longer the only big rock in town. The red carpet is bedazzled with bold jewellery: Naomi Watts in art deco inspired Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie 50 carat sapphire earrings at the 2015 Oscars, Saoirse Ronan at the BAFTAs this year in a candy store confection of multi-coloured sapphires by Chopard, or Jessica Chastain in Piaget rubies at the Met Gala. The Duchess of Cambridge sparked demand for a new wave of gemstone engagement rings with her 18-carat Ceylon sapphire ring, probably the most famous engagement ring in the world, which belonged to the late Princess Diana. “Coloured gemstones

have been around for a very long time,” reflects Rupak Sen, Gemfields’ regional marketing director for Asia and the Middle East. “It was somewhat forgotten about since the Forties, but the last few years have seen a complete resurgence in the appetite for emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Colour makes people stop and take notice. The next decade is going to be the decade of colour. Consumers today want to create a statement with their jewellery, and what better way to make that statement than by wearing an emerald, which is 20 times rarer than a diamond?” It is just this scarcity that allows gemstones to mount a challenge to the diamond. Brightly hued stones offer a point of difference that sets them apart from the familiar icy brilliance of the diamond. “The colour stones are very high end and very rare. It is the rarity of the stones that makes them more valuable,” notes Sen. “No two stones are the same. Because of their rarity, the prices of these stones continue to increase every year. These stones are finite in number. The mines producing them will last maybe for another 25-odd years. After that (and if no new mines are found) one will never be able to be a firsthand owner of a gemstone.” Rare, expensive and in limited supply. Sounds familiar. But, history has a habit of repeating itself. “I think it’s interesting to remember that from the 18th century onwards, white jewellery periods have always tended to alternate with yellow gold and coloured jewellery periods,” notes jewellery historian Amanda Triossi. “For example,

From top to bottom: CHANEL | BVLGARI diamonds as featured in An Unexpected Icon, MOJEH Issue 21

146 in the Thirties, diamond jewels set in platinum were all the rage; in the Forties, yellow gold and coloured gems were extremely fashionable and again in the Fifties, diamonds came to the forefront. The change from colour to diamonds and vice versa is dictated by different factors, but on a very macro scale, I think that the change is often prompted by fashion. The Nineties’ minimalistic black and white called for equally styled monochromatic white jewels, while nowadays, the fashion for brighter coloured fabrics prompts jewellers to follow suit – hence the trend for coloured gems which tend to be mounted in pink gold. Trends for diamond-set jewels versus those with coloured jewels rotate or oscillate like a pendulum.” Of course, just as a woman’s jewellery box contains trinkets that represent different aspects of her personality, so, too, do coloured gemstones and diamonds co-exist, frequently in the same piece. “I don’t see the diamond being overtaken by another stone, but I do see greater interest in gems such as sapphires, rubies, emeralds,” concedes Mouawad. “And, it’s worth noting that these stones are seen at their best when paired with diamonds.” The diamond, even when not centre stage, plays a crucial supporting role that enhances the reflective beauty of a tonal gem. “I don’t think there is a race happening here,” urges Sen. “Diamonds, gold, emeralds, rubies and sapphires will all coexist. Every time we sell an emerald or a ruby piece, diamonds are also sold along with it, as the emerald becomes the centre stone

From top to bottom: Zendaya wears CASA REALE and BUTANI rings at the 2016 Grammy Awards | Skylar Grey in TACORI diamonds

and diamonds surround it, and the metal

of great substance, which for some

demand remains healthy despite the

used is gold. They complement each

markets is very appealing”. “Women are

coming and going of trends,” maintains

other and that’s how it will always be.”

definitely looking for new and different

Mouawad. Whether we are drawn to

Looking for a less conspicuous display of

ways to express their personality through

them by virtue of clever advertising,

wealth than the traditional princess-cut

their engagement rings,” confirms

tradition or aesthetics, diamonds denote

whopper (and the constant judgement

Mouawad. “I don’t actually see this

play, love, style, and friendship; today,

of the four c’s), millennials are seeking

ever eclipsing the popularity of classic

their meaning can be as permanent or

new settings, sizes and designs for

styles though. Engagements retain a

fleeting as we choose. “People are now

their statement pieces, prioritising

sense of the traditional, even in modern

looking for something that is unique not

ethically sourced stones. Plain gold

times. It is important to know how to

only in the quality of a stone, but also

bands, stacked eternity rings or multi-

interpret something classic, but give it a

in the creative vision that accompanies

finger designs grace the hands of chic

contemporary twist.”

it, and to me this is the next level in

women whose minimalist tendencies

Of course, it’s not as simplistic as

consumption. This is the real luxury,”

extend to their jewellery. As proposals

one type of jewellery, or even stone,

says de la Rouchefoucauld. “I create for

and wedding ceremonies become more

overtaking another. In the interests of

today’s woman. She is elegant yet not

authentic and less formal, the rules of the

variety, creativity and a diverse choice

traditional, poetic and feminine yet with

diamond game are changing. Couples

for each individual consumer, it could

strength, imaginative but not fashionable.

often design bespoke pieces for each

never be so, regardless of the prevailing

She is a cultivated and free spirit that

other during their engagement, while

jewellery trend of the moment. “The

goes beyond trends, fashion and above

single women are dispensing with the

saying ‘diamonds are forever’ has

all branding.” The diamond isn’t dead,

outdated notion that they should wait

certainly proved true in the sense that

but it is no longer wedded to forever.

to be gifted a diamond by picking out ‘right hand rings’ for themselves in the interests of fashion, investment or simply to subvert tradition. “Creativity and innovation in the structure are the basics for ensuring a contemporary vision of diamonds,” explains de la Rochefoucauld, whose Disruptive collection overthrows the traditions of the diamond ring as a true expression of modernism. “It allows reinvention in the way they are emphasised, but also perceived by a new generation. So, it speaks to a contemporary society, but also for it. This dialectic is crucial in the understanding of this evolution, because all the arts and crafts push society’s boundaries, but are also the result of it. As long as there is beauty and harmony in the creation, I feel it becomes universal.” As diamonds and gemstones form a creative partnership in certain pieces, so can traditionalists and modernists find new perspectives on the diamond. “I believe that elaborate settings can counterbalance the size of a given diamond, hence the resulting ring might be more ‘flash than cash’,” notes Triossi,

Red carpet images courtesy of Getty.

“it may have a great look, but not be

Lupita Nyong’o in CHOPARD

148

T h e C o llec tio n

T r easu r e

Chamber We look to the collection preserving ancient design influences and redrafting them with contemporary vision.

Entering the mystical world of Elizabeth Gage is like uncovering preserved finery for the first time. Rare and beautiful, her designs are distinguishable through their use of rich and lavish materials, like embossed gold and coloured enamel. Formally trained as a master goldsmith and having commissioned work for Cartier and De Beers, the designer has gone on to create her own namesake label, building her signature style by skilfully moulding large gemstones in often unique, one-of-a-kind creations that favour medieval influences. She breathes new life into forgotten heirlooms, offering to redesign inherited pieces with updated style. Inlaying meticulous detail into construction, she skilfully revives once forgotten pieces. Placing an emphasis on regality, she sculpts granulated gold around cabochon lapis for a stately appearance, and adroitly manipulates 18 carat gold into imperial jewellery. Proudly don her precious masterpieces as the perfect statement accessory to accompany lavish eveningwear.

Top to bottom: Gold Bark bracelet and Nefertiti necklace, ELIZABETH GAGE

Colours Show Your

We bid farewell to demure designs and welcome in a new code of colour.

After seasons of refinement and understated elegance,

declarative jewels are back with a vengeance. The peacocking trend that sees flashy designs in loud and eccentric colours springs to life this season in an explosion of sartorial power. Rising through the ranks and emerging as the season’s favoured hue is canary yellow. Its fresh appearance disperses hypnotic rays of

light, craftily mirrored through the meticulous work of expert artisans. With the shade possessing psychological properties evoking confidence and creativity, what’s not to love? Look to trail a pavé of emerald gems around the band of your ring to instantly enhance the beauty of golden stones. Become a master of style and fall into the world of fantasy with decorative finery that will mesmerise onlookers with a single glance.

Top to bottom: Primavera ring with white, grey, yellow and cognac brilliant-cut diamonds, pink sapphires, emeralds in white and yellow gold, GIAMPIERO BODINO | Haute couture ring with fancy deep brownish yellow cushion-cut diamond in 18 karat white gold, ADLER at Istana Jewellers | High jewelry ring with 2 heart-cut yellow diamond, 28 briolette-cut emeralds, 97 yellow diamonds, 206 emeralds in yellow gold, DE GRISOGONO

150

Wat c h N otes

Ephemeral

Elements From the celestial Rendez-Vous to the dual focused Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre is as in tune with women as it is time. This season the Maison presents an excess of options for the modern bride, whether she chooses delicate pieces in blush tones or diamond encrusted faces in night time hues. Photographed by ELENA LUKYANCHUCK

Reverso Duetto Classique with 437 diamonds in 18 carat pink gold, JAEGER-LeCoultre

Rendez-Vous Celestial with 155 diamonds and sapphire case back in 18 carat white gold, JAEGER-LeCoultre

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Rendez-Vous Night and Day with 699 diamonds and sapphire case back in 18 carat white gold, JAEGER-LeCoultre

Top: Rendez-Vous Night with 60 diamonds and sapphire case back in 18 carat white gold, JAEGER-LeCoultre | Bottom: Rendez-Vous Date 27.5 with 60 diamonds and sapphire case back in 18 carats white gold, JAEGER-LeCoultre

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T h e C o llec tio n

Echoes of Granville Named after Monsieur Christian Dior’s childhood home of Granville, Normandy, the French couture house’s latest high jewellery and horology collection captures the joie de vivre of childhood games and memories. Informed by the cheerfully coloured rainbow hues of his family’s house and garden, Middle Eastern illustrator Samar Sadik playfully nods at the haute joaillerie collection and the surreal history behind it in a series of charming sketches. Illustrations by Samar Sadik

The juicy burst of colours in this tourmaline bracelet set in rose gold from Dior’s Granville collection instantly captures the youthful excitement of these precious stones. Dior’s creative director, Victoire de Castellane, playfully employs colours inspired by children’s games. This mesmerising bracelet turned into a headpiece in Sadik’s illustration features a pink tourmaline at its heart, surrounded by an eclectic mix of some of de Castellane’s favourite, brightly coloured gemstones.

The La D de Dior ‘Granville’ array of sugary sweet timepieces throws in candy bright belts in mauve, pink and pistachio green, clashing with mother-of-pearl dials in the most subdued turquoise, jade or richly purple hues. “Colour plays a starring role,” says Castellane, who transforms the vision of exploring a richly cultivated garden, viewed through the lens of childhood nostalgia and brought to life by the Granville range of timepieces.

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The vibrant colour palette extends into Dior cocktail rings, tapping the childhood memory of rummaging through motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewellery box. Each ring surrounds central gems with juxtaposing stones of varying cuts, colours and even setting styles, creating kaleidoscopic visions of blooming flora. The rings are set with joyfully sparkling green beryl, aquamarine, tanzanite, rubellite and many more sparklers, bringing to life Monsieur Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enchanted childhood playground.

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The Shade Watch, BVLGARI

Spring’s Serenity

We look to the mesmerising hues of precious stones as we deconstruct the prettiest of shades. Crimson, scarlet, rose and blush cast poetic charm over our jewellery and inspire us for spring.

Rich in concentration, the ruby presents itself as one of the most daring of all gems. Channelling the defiant shade of red, Istana’s opulent 18 karat white gold necklace merges a sea of rubies and diamonds into a precious piece of high jewellery. 18 karat white gold necklace with 50 carat rubies and 16 carat diamonds, ISTANA JEWELLERS

Flowers courtesy of Bliss Flower Boutique, photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, words and styling by Sophie Pasztor

Confident in technicality and powerful in design, Bulgari’s timeless Serpenti watch looks to the deep shade of crimson for structural detail. For the women that long for ageless beauty, don with a classic black gown for evening glamour.

Rose Pré Catelan Earrings in 18 karat pink gold and pink quartz, DIOR

For a subtle introduction to the shade, draw on the purity of pink quartz from Dior’s Rose Pré Catelan earrings. Pair them with a billowing sundress for some youthful whimsy.

The grandeur of oversized stones presents an opportunity for experimentation that appeals to fashion’s most daring. Pick one statement jewel in a soft palette to carry your entire look.

Versace’s Fine Jewellery cocktail ring in yellow gold with pink quartz and diamonds, VERSACE

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B e au ty T r ends

Bridal Beauty Tribes

The tried and tested smokey eyes get an edgy and metallic upgrade at Atelier Versace’s couture show. Be sure to indulge in a mix of greys, electric blues and fiery greens for that iridescent allure.

Chanel’s haute couture spectacle brought with it the extremely ladylike hair roll phenomenon—dubbed a “croissant” by hairstylist Sam McKnight, it makes for an inventive alternative to the chignon.

Retro glamorous, bohemian or traditional? What bridal beauty tribe do you belong to? We’re introducing the beauty trends for the wedding season inspired by catwalks across the world, to explore and achieve the perfect look that best reflects your personal style on your big day.

Neuvo Bride She is the quintessential non-traditionalist. This adventuress bride is experimental and isn’t scared to take beauty risks on her big day. Eye-catching hair accessories, unconventional lip colours, graphic eye makeup and loads of attitude make for this bride’s beauty checklist. Look to Antonio Marras’s rustic muse, Jeremy Scott’s graphic Barbie and Simone Rocha’s messy braids for risqué beauty inspiration.

Classicist Classic, modest and failproof — the new season’s traditionalist bride with a twist prides herself on being the best version of the classic bride, with updated makeup techniques that have stood the test of time. Take couture beauty cues from Chanel’s tight ‘croissant’ bun, Dior’s timeless glossy nude lips and Atelier Versace’s sultry smokey eye.

Antonio Marras s/s16

If you’re feeling bold, then the season’s offerings of graphic eye designs will keep you inspired to test some inventive eyelining techniques, like Jeremy Scott’s almost comic triple flick cat eye.

Chanel Haute Couture s/s16

Pink-nude shades are the key to the minimalist look. At Dior spring/summer 2016, makeup artists used a swipe of lipgloss on peachy hued lips that resulted in a girly yet striking appeal.

The ultra-pretty and extremely versatile braid will keep you stylish and offbeat, especially through a summer wedding. From gorgeous French braids to super skinny punk plaits, take your pick from the season’s experimental hairstyles.

The Nineties’ make a comeback with the deep-to-bright lips combination in plum vampy shades. Do like Shiatzy Chen and apply two shades of lip colours, blurring the line between them for a sultry illusion.

162 Bohemian Belle This non-conformist bride makes her own rules. Her look is clean, natural and non-pretentious. She celebrates her natural beauty and only highlights her best features with simple and farfrom-fancy gimmicks. She follows the beauty trends and adopts the new season strobing, contouring and eye makeup, but gives them a personal spin minus the fuss, taking inspiration from Alberta Ferretti and Chloé.

Elie Saab Haute Couture s/s16

The free-spirited bride does not shy away from walking down the aisle sans makeup. Chloé took a similar route for s/s16 and only contoured the models’ eyes with a swipe of black pencil on the waterlines.

If a natural looking lip-gloss is too plain for your taste, try applying lightly tinted liquid lip colours that suit your skin tone and don’t wash you away.

Alberta Ferretti’s s/s16 show was an important lesson in highlighting your best features – her tribal glamazons walked down the runway with strategically contoured cheeks and highlighted peaks to give the natural look a hint of glam.

The mantra to nailing this look is to come as you are, and feel confident in your own skin.

English Rose This bride is seeking for feminine and sophisticated updates to a more whimsical vibe. She longs for ethereal makeup, and looks for refreshing versions of rosy floral hues to highlight her cheekbones and lips. Her choice of hairstyle can be best described as a couture down-do with intricate details that exude tradition, without sacrificing the bride’s adoring charm.

Smudgy mascara and kohl, paired with a pink flush on the cheeks, are essential to this look. Try more earthy hues to keep the look grounded or, take cues from Giorgio Armani and go for a more metallic swipe of shadow over and under the eye.

A modern twist on traditional down-dos, Stephane Rolland’s couture bridal belles donned theatrical braids in a half-up style, revealing the intricate knit-like craftsmanship the hairstylists put in.

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture s/s16

Marques Almeida employed the season’s favourite lilac and other floral inspired hues on the runway to replace traditional lip colours for a refreshing look.

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Blue is the colour of the season, as makeup artists across the world adopted the aquatic hue in their own unique ways this season. We’re particularly intrigued by DVF’s green-blue metallic shadow combination, for the bride who is not afraid to shine.

Marchesa’s pretty pouts in plush pinks are equal measures of sophistication and flirtatiousness. Keep the rest of your makeup simple when rocking a bright lip to keep the distractions to a minimal.

Soul Shine The retro glam inspired bride loves to make a statement. Her wedding day makeup mantra is all about theatricality and experimentation, and she will boldly indulge in colourful metallic eye shadows, bright pops of retro lip colours and old school, Hollywood glam, tightly curled hair. Think DVF’s glam girls and Sonia Rykiel’s disco dolls.

Put a retro spin on simple, loose hair with tightly curled locks, taking inspiration from vintage Hollywood femme fatales.

Alexis Mabille s/s16

i D

l a c a y s

Positioned as the hue of the season, lilac mesmerises us with its rich and regal tone. As inspiration for anything from your beauty code to table decoration, these perfectly poised roses present the shade with all the power and allure it deserves.

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, words by Sophie Pasztor

Bella Brothers in Lilac, FOREVER ROSE

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H e alth a nd B e au t y Ne ws

Food for the Soul Sophie’s Café, Dubai: Set next to the easy breezy Palm neighbourhood in Riva beach club, this innovative gastro-café concept serves up an array of wholesome and healthy meals, with focus on organic and fair trade options. Head there after a morning Paddle Board around the Palm Island and days don’t get much healthier than that.

Life’n One, Dubai: With an extensive gluten free, dairy free and sugar free menu, the one-of-a-kind café and yoga centre in the heart of Jumeirah is perfect for those who enjoy a laid-back, cosy and hippy chic atmosphere, with a lovely flower and vegetable garden as your ambience.

Tawa Bakery, Abu Dhabi: Abu Dhabi’s first home grown gluten free café is the latest addition to the region’s health food and wellbeing craze, specialising in serving inventive continental dishes and healthier alternatives for Arabic breads and pastries.

3 4

1 2

Vegan Makeup

Brushes Cruelty-free makeup tools are an excellent step towards tackling smoky eyes, contouring, and everything in between, without hurting animals. But, finding the right synthetic makeup brush is usually a game of trial and error. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve rounded up five of the most effective vegan alternatives to makeup brushes. 1. Stencil foundation brush, BY TERRY | 2. Good Karma blurring brush, URBAN DECAY | 3. Powder foundation brush, EVE LOM | 4. Smoke Oval 8 brush, ARTIS BRUSH | 5. Foundation brush, BOBBI BROWN

The Future of Fitness 1. EMS Training: EMS or Electro Muscle Stimulation is a modern day training and beautifying tool, intended to condition and strengthen body muscles. In just 20 minutes a week, this system trains over 650 muscles, proving more effective than a week at a regular gym. Perfect for those with a busy lifestyle and a desire to reach fitness goals. 2. VO2 Max fitness test: The high-tech fitness test determines oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cardiovascular health, providing you with a detailed breakdown of your fitness and giving you the information you need to reach the next level in your training. An excellent tool to monitor and improve your strength. 3. Lab Golf Coaching: Golfing is hailed as one of the best sports for fitness and toning. Building on that concept, the unique TaylorMade Performance Lab monitors players and helps them improve their swing and posture, and play using the most accurately fitted clubs in the world, all the while conditioning the body muscles.

168 Hands Down From flaunting your ring to clasping your bouquet, your fingers will be a point of focus in photos. To get them in their best shape and health, a manicure just wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t suffice. Try these indulgent hand treatments to prepare you for the big day. 1. De-Stress Hand Treatment: Using vegetable extracts, a decadent hand treatment concoction deeply penetrates into your limbs through an expert hand and arm massage, resulting in a firmer, youthful glow. Six Senses Spa, Kuwait

2. Hast Snana-Ayurvedic Treatment: Along with skilful nail grooming, the quintessentially Ayurvedic spa treatment involves a warm aromatherapy soak, followed by an exfoliation and mask wrapped up in all-natural extracts of papaya, orange blossom, vitamin E and cardamom. Jiva Spa, Taj, Dubai

3. The Hands of Time Treatment: This treatment does wonders for increasing blood circulation and repairing any damage caused by sun and heat, using a youth-inducing enzyme peel followed by a hydrating warm paraffin wax mask, blended with pure essential oils. Bliss Spa, W Hotel, Doha

Bridal Treatments Take charge of your skincare routine with these prewedding beauty saviour treatments, which will help you put your prettiest face forward on your big day.

1. Chemical Peel: An efficient multi-acid complex peel clears off long-term damage caused to the skin and reveals a fresh and radiant complexion free from dead skin. Be sure to always follow your treatment with a calming mask to allow the results to last longer until your big day. Enzyme Peel Facial at Six Senses Spa at Zighy Bay Resort, Oman

2. Anti-cellulite treatment: All the stress of planning a wedding can result in tiny cellulite accumulation, in the form of bumps and dimples in various parts of the body. Fortunately, anticellulite massages straighten out the fat deposits and reveal a contoured silhouette with slimming effects. Draining Vegetal Mud Drape at The Spa by Clarins at Waldorf Astoria, Jeddah

3. Traditional Hammam: The age-old cleansing ritual combines the goodness of steam, exfoliation, and nourishment using Moroccan and Turkish ingredients to whiten and soften the skin while relaxing the tired nerves, with an overall detox effect. Traditional Oriental Hammam at One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai

Styled by Olivia Cantillon and photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi.

P o w d e r e d

Pigments As sorbet nail shades make headway for spring, look to sugary hues of sky blue, mint, peach and pink. Not only for the prim and proper, toughen up your look with hardwearing accessories and bolder beauty.

Top to bottom: Vernis Lilac 491, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Le Vernis Nail Colour 767 Fraicheur, CHANEL | Vernis In Love Bleu Ciel Parisien, LANCOME | Passion, OPI

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In the Morning Sun See the sunrise on an enchanted morning and let the light guide your bridal beauty look toward a flawless spring complexion. Glacial pastel shades on eyes, nails and lips offer a dose of cooling colour to begin a new chapter with a fresh canvas.

Photographed by TRACEY MORRIS Styled by LAIN JENNINGS

Face throughout: Capture Totale Crème Universal Texture, Diorskin Forever & Ever Wear Primer, Diorskin Nude Air Summer Glow Loose Powder 001, CHRISTIAN DIOR Face: Diorskin Forever Foundation 023, Diorskin Nude Air Glow Fresh Tan 001 | Eyes: Dior Colour & Contour Twig 557 Dior | Eye: Reviver Palette 002, Diorshow Maximizer 3D, Dioshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara 090 | Lips: Dior Addict Lip Glow, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Face: Diorskin Forever Foundation 023, Diorskin Nude Air Glow Fresh Tan 001 | Eyes: Diorshow Colour & Contour Hortensia 957, Diorshow Maximizer 3D, Dioshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara 090 | Lips: Dior Addict Milky Tint | Nails: Dior Vernis Duos Confettis 002, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Face: Diorskin Forever Foundation 023, Diorskin Nude Air Glow Fresh Tan 001 | Eyes: 5 Couleurs Polka Dots Escapanade 536, Diorshow Maximizer 3D, Dioshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara 090 | Lips: Dior Addict Lip Glow 001, CHRISTIAN DIOR

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Face: Diorskin Forever Foundation 023, Diorskin Nude Air Glow Fresh Tan 001 | Eyes: 5 Couleurs Glowing Gardens Blue Garden 031, Diorshow Maximizer 3D, Dioshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara 090 | Lips: Dior Addict Lipstick Play 861 | Nails: Dior Vernis Duos Confettis 002, CHRISTIAN DIOR

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Face: Diorskin Forever Foundation 023, Diorskin Nude Air Glow Fresh Tan 001 | Eyes: Dior Eye Reviver Palette 002, Diorshow Maximizer 3D, Dioshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara 090 | Lips: Dior Addict Milky Tint | Nails: Dior Vernis Duos Confettis 002, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Face: Diorskin Forever Foundation 023, Diorskin Nude Air Glow Fresh Tan 001 | Eyes: Dior Eye Reviver Palette 002, Diorshow Maximizer 3D, Dioshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara 090 | Lips: Dior Addict Lipstick Pause 613, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Face: Diorskin Forever Foundation 023, Diorskin Nude Air Glow – Fresh Tan 001 | Eyes: 5 Couleurs Polka Dots Bain de Mer 366, DiorShow Colour & Contour- Iris 157, Diorshow Maximizer 3D, Dioshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara 090 | Lips: Dior Addict Lipstick Appeal 553, CHRISTIAN DIOR

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Model: Viktoria Bobrikova Make-up artist: Natalia Malova at Wilhelmina Hair stylist: Lauren at Wilhelmina Clothing: All Christian Dior Production: Louis Agency

Face: Diorskin Forever Foundation 010 | Eyes: 5 Couleurs Polka Dots Bain de Mer 366, Diorshow Art Pen Catwalk Black 095, Diorshow Maximizer 3D, Dioshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara 090 | Lips: Dior Addict Lipstick Appeal 553 | Nails: Dior Vernis Duos Pastilles 001, CHRISTIAN DIOR

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m o j eh T r av el

Honeymoons Off The

Beaten Path Millennial honeymooners with an intrepid streak are increasingly choosing the path less travelled, opting for exhilarating jaunts as an alternative to traditional relaxed getaways. We explore the trend in adrenaline pumping honeymoon escapes.

Standing at the edge of a jagged cliff in the volcanic corner region of Iceland, horse-riding your way down to Mt Reykjafjall through the warm and historic area of Reykir, before ending up in Hverageroi — the hot spring capital of the world — might not sound like your run-of-the-mill honeymoon. But, travel specialists and honeymoon experts around the world are reporting an increasing number of such requests from

By Aishwarya Tyagi

newly married couples, who decide to ditch the traditional getaway after saying ‘I do’ to take the plunge, quite literally. The modern definition of honeymooning is an experience that can be a thrill-aminute, action-packed adventure, or a slowdown for a night under the stars in the middle of nowhere. “Wherever the destination may be, it’s a time and

Explore Patagonia’s guided hikes and horseback rides across the Chilean topographies that offer breathtaking views of glaciers, lakes and mountains.

Guests can indulge in one of COMO Shambhala’s inspiring day trips, such as visits to Paro Dzong and the National Museum of Bhutan, or a spectacular walk to the iconic ‘Tiger’s Nest’ Monastery.

experience you undertake for the first

to these thrill-seeking couples — one

time as a couple, building a strong

package in particular begins in a remote

foundation for the ups and downs that lie

part of Bhutan, named Paro. “We receive

ahead of you” says Sara Farah, founder

over hundreds of requests from travel

of Dubai-based luxury marriage registry,

planners and couples from around the

White Almonds. “An adventurous

world, who wish to indulge in a cultural

honeymoon brings with it challenges

immersion in Bhutan and be signed up

that help build trust between the newly

for lessons and walking tours as part

married duo, and couples realise that

of their honeymoon,” the specialised

this may be the last opportunity to

bookings team tells us. At the estate,

have an adventurous trip before more

giddy honeymooners might mistake their

responsibilities and family planning

light-headedness for jitters at 20,000

come along. So, they take this chance

feet in this tiny Himalayan kingdom.

to have a memorable adventure on their

The adventure and wellness retreat

honeymoon,” she explains as the reason

organises a four-and-a-half day privately

behind newlyweds choosing offbeat and

guided walks through the Paro Valley,

challenging holidays for the first time.

including Taktsang, aka the ‘Tiger’s

The COMO Shambhala Estate caters

Nest’ Monastery, Kyichu Lhakhang, and

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gloriously remote Fogo Islands Inn in Newfoundland, British Columbia, offers offshore birding and whale watching, fishing, biking and visits to fishermen and craftspeople of the region to allow honeymooners to get engrossed in the raw goodness of the coast. As part of this expedition, not only will couples have one-on-one time with the new spouse, far from the maddening crowd the mystic Neyphug Monastery, all of the

to the vibrant Rio de Janerio gateway

thanks to cell phones, TV and Internet

region’s precipitously located architectural

to the world of samba and carnivals —

being scarce to none here, they also get

and natural wonders. After each day’s

which began on New Year’s Eve. The

the taste of exploring the most remote

rigorous hike, honeymooners return to

thrill-seeking duo made their way across

reaches of the planet, surrounded by

the hotel, where claw foot tubs, open

the country through railways to Salvador,

glaciers and towering jagged peaks,

fireplaces, relaxing couples massages

to explore the land, attempting to learn

keeping their eyes forever pointed

and hot stone baths await. One option for

Portuguese and getting a first look at

towards the horizon in search of exotic

straddling adventure with luxury, perhaps.

the rich colonial landscape of Brazil,

flora and fauna. And, they also get

Dubai-based clothing designer Anjali

together as a newly married couple

to indulge in myriad opportunities for

Khushlani of K Couture and her husband,

— an “unforgettable experience” they

extreme adventure.

Deepak, took a similar route on their

cherish to date, after six years of wedlock.

We’re also seeing an increasing number

thrilling honeymoon — hopping on a flight

On a more engaging expedition, the

of travel planners offering “meaningful”

At Fogo Islands Inn in Newfoundland, travellers to Canada can walk along ancient footpaths steeped in history, hike to one of the four corners of the earth, and follow animal tracks into untamed wilderness.

honeymoons, dedicated to humanitarian

be unique and worthwhile,â&#x20AC;? says Jean

intentions, where couples request to sign

Fawcett, luxury travel PR for the tailored

up for volunteering programmes to spend

travelling company. This alternative

their time together dedicated to teaching

is particularly enticing for the Middle

children English, building schools or

Eastern dweller, who has luxury at his or

helping with village infrastructure in third

her fingertips on a daily basis.

world countries. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an interesting and

With the wide variety of options that the

completely contrasting change from the

digital, globalised age offers, the world

traditional and somewhat self-serving

can be a pretty fascinating playground

honeymoons we have known. Luxury

for newlyweds. And, in terms of travel,

travel planners at Abercrombie and Kent

romance comes in a rainbow of flavours.

offer short-term volunteering in Polynesia,

We see the appeal of them all. Whether

India or South America to honeymooners

you go hiking on the cliffs of Patagonia

before they finish at a luxury lodge or

or excavate the historic monuments

resort. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The goal is to conquer an

of Jordan, in the modern age, where

experience for the first time, together

time well spent is golden, be sure to

as a team, creating memories that will

make your trip of a lifetime exactly that.

The awe-inspiring Northern Lights are one of the biggest draws to visit Iceland during the winter months. The ION adventure tour takes you out into the vast Icelandic open to get immersed in the natural phenomenon.

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Cultu r e C lub

Style The summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new film releases are brimming with style inspiration. From the perfect muse to channel on a European idyll to the peculiar eccentrics of a fictional fantasy world, the characters of the silver screen are set to offer a visual fashion feast.

Words by Natalie Trevis. Images courtesy of Frenesy Film Company and Element Pictures.

Cinematic

Sun-drenched backdrops, deserted bays and a poetic swimming pool mean that vacation style remains at the forefront of our minds as A Bigger Splash reaches its emotional finale.

of elegance Raf Simons for Dior. “She’s just trying to find a real life among the sequins,” says Swinton of her complex character. Johnson’s summer wardrobe, meanwhile, consists of crop tops, crocheted slips and triangle bikinis, the free-spirited attire of a precocious ingénue doing her best to disrupt the passionate idyll. Sundrenched backdrops, deserted bays and a poetic swimming pool mean that vacation style remains at the forefront of our minds as A Bigger Splash reaches its emotional finale. Meanwhile, director James Bobin has us tumbling back into Lewis Carroll’s fantastical realm with Alice Through The Looking Glass (released May 2016). Multiple Academy Award-winning costume designer, Colleen Atwood, doesn’t miss a beat. Reflecting the surrealist time travelling adventures of Alice (Mia Wasikowska), the newly melancholy Mad Hatter (Johnny Depp) and the Colin Farrell and Rachel Weisz in The Lobster

White Queen (Anne Hathaway) in Underland, Atwood’s costumes are more joyfully flamboyant than ever, with Alice beginning her journey in an oriental-inspired brocade tunic and culottes that

Tilda Swinton in A Bigger Splash

The nuances of plot, character and location might

set her up as a regal superhero, a world away

have us spellbound in our seats when it comes

from her blue-smocked childhood.

to the latest blockbuster, but it’s the costumes

The Lobster, a dystopian satire directed by

that keep us captivated long after the credits roll.

European arthouse master Yorgos Lanthimos,

A sense of romance and mystery prevails this

sees David (Colin Farrell) escape a strict society

summer, with dystopian indies and impassioned

outlawing singledom to join the uncertain

dramas offering a sartorial escape.

fate of the anarchic Loners (including Rachel

When you remake a cult movie starring an

Weisz and Léa Seydoux) in the woods. Absurd

icon like Jane Birkin, style has to come as a

and grotesque in equal measure, the film is

guarantee. A Bigger Splash, directed by Luca

beautifully shot against the sweeping hills of

Guadagnino, mirrors the 1969 classic, La Piscine,

Ireland’s County Kerry, making the middle

and stars Tilda Swinton, Dakota Johnson and

management tailoring and darkly dramatic

Ralph Fiennes in a seductive drama set on the

raincoats sported by Farrell and Weisz all the

picturesque Italian island of Pantelleria. Swinton

more poignant. Set for limited release this month,

plays recuperating rockstar Marianne Lane, her

the movie won Sarah Blenkinsop the award for

style ranging from perfectly louche swimwear

Best Costume Designer at the European Film

and monochrome Fifties sundresses to Ziggy

Awards and, in the process, might just have

Stardust-inspired stagewear, designed by master

made Elegant Bureaucracy a summer trend.

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Wo ma n o f S ty le

Endless Voyage

Which place does your label best reflect?

Which place is most inspiring to you?

The Mediterranean. I used to spend at least one

Well, inspiration in my case comes from

or two weeks in the summer sailing around the

the impulse of a moment. When you are in

Mediterranean into Sardinia, Corsica, Greece,

a calm place near the beach, the senses

Croatia, Ibiza…. Since I was very young I’ve

can flow. I’m always inspired, my mind is

had both seasons in my wardrobe all the time,

full of clothes. I visited Abu Dhabi mosque:

so when I started designing, I always had

The flowers on the floor and on the wall

this kind of lifestyle in mind, combining silky

inspired me, and one of my trips to the

summer clothes with winter. I’m in love with life,

Croatian island of Hvar, which is filled with

so as I design, I do what comes from inside.

lavender, inspired me too. Vibrant colours from nature always do, from the intense blue

Designer Adriana Iglesias

How do your fabrics work in this environment?

of the sea in Dubrovnik or Santorini, to the

I have the Mediterranean in mind all the

turquoise of Sardinia, to tropical leaves in

time and the summer breeze there moves

Tulum. This kind of inspiration comes more

the fabric, the silk, in an elegant way. I

easily when I am disconnected from daily life.

really love it when I see women in those p l a c e s w a l k i n g a ro u n d a n d t h e i r l o n g

How do you envisage your collection?

dresses and skirts moving so well. I love

I just imagine myself wearing everything. I

Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes where

wouldn’t make something that I wouldn’t wear.

the amfAR Gala is held, and it’s so much

That’s why the collections are really me. My

better than seeing the red carpet in Cannes.

friends used to say that it’s like opening my

Interview by Natalie Trevis. Images courtesy of Adriana Iglesias and Getty.

Spanish designer Adriana Iglesias lives to travel and has designed a wardrobe to match. We meet Adriana in Dubai to find out about her most memorable adventures and why her eponymous line of printed silky dresses, effortless pyjama suits and goanywhere separates speaks to every global traveller.

like discovering the world from another point of view. I love how they react. It’s another opportunity to see a place with other eyes. How do you pack for travelling? I take a lot of things. I’ve always liked silk from the very beginning. I find it really easy to wear on the beach during the day and then at night. When you spend your vacation on a boat, you need to pack as much as possible in a small amount of luggage. My lifestyle has always been about wearing the same clothes from day to night, changing the shoes and complements. How do your designs translate to the Middle East? After starting to sell in the South of France,

It’s really amazing to sail around the Croatian islands, like Vis, which was a military naval base. Now, it’s very informal and easy and you can find taverns with local wine and great seafood. Hvar is amazing with its lavender fields and has fashionable chill out bars such as Carpe Diem. Don’t miss the islands of Brac, Mljet and Korcula – this island is one of the greenest islands in the Adriatic Sea. And, when you see Dubrovnik for the very first time, it’s hard to imagine so much beauty: Those baroque buildings with the red roofs and the endless shimmer of the Adriatic.

I had a very strong vision that the next step was the Middle East. Even though culturally, the way that a woman appears is completely different across the region, I perceive women here to be very womanly. Also, because of the climate, the sea, the light, I thought that women here would appreciate the kind of work we are doing with the collections. I really think that it’s the place to be in fashion, actually. What’s next for the label? I’m working on spring/summer 2017, which is Adriana Iglesias spring/summer 2016

inspired by Cannes, actually, around the idea of the industry of cinema coming to Europe every year, but going towards the Seventies.

wardrobe, because even when I buy other brands,

It’s a lot of white, with patterns that are quite

I have a very strong sense of personal style.

structured in a new fabric I have introduced,

My favourite luxury spot, the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes, is a true Garden of Eden in the Mediterranean, where privacy, luxury, glamour and charm combine perfectly. No words really do justice to the beauty of this place. And, you can find Adriana Iglesias in the boutique there!

which is a white piqué, together with floral What has been your most memorable trip?

silks using yellows, greens, and turquoise.

Maybe the first time I went sailing. I think I disconnect much more than in a hotel. When

Where would you like to visit next?

you wake up and it’s just the sea all around

I want to go to some islands around the Bahamas,

and nothing else, I think you are more in touch

looking for crystal waters and white sand.

with yourself. When you travel, you need to be very aware of everything, so you live in

What is the greatest lesson you have learnt

the moment. In life, we focus on the future

from travelling?

or think about the past, but when you travel,

I think I am really open-minded because of

everything is new, from the culture to the

travelling. This is something I am happy to

language, and you have to really concentrate

pass on to my daughters. When you travel,

on what’s happening.

you need to be open and respectful towards other cultures, traditions and ways of life and

Who are your favourite travel companions?

this is something you cannot teach by simply

I travel with my daughters. I used to go with

talking. What I like the most when travelling

friends, but now I have discovered how

is to observe people: How they live, how

much my daughters love travelling, too. I am

they react, how they are. I think when you

a mother above everything. With them, it’s

travel, you learn to get the best of everybody.

When I visited Athens for the first time, I couldn’t stop imagining ancient Greece with those iconic monuments – it’s like an open-air museum, with ancient landmarks merging past and present. In the Cyclades islands, you will see the famous whitewashed cuboid houses on the hillside above an azure bay, which is really wonderful. Milos is really quiet, you can look for fun in Mykonos; Naxos is very familiar, or the gorgeous Santorini that fulfils the dream of the Greek islands. Chromata, Mystique and Grace Santorini are really nice hotels and, for dinner, I would recommend Kapari restaurant.

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Cultu r e C lub

This month, Dubai plays host to Roger Vivier – Icons Connected, a travelling exhibition celebrating the story of legendary and loveable shoemaker Roger Vivier. Held at Level Shoe District, Dubai Mall, the displays will showcase prominent pieces and images celebrating almost 90 years of the French brand.

For newlyweds looking for a small staycation either pre or post honeymoon, the Palace Hotel, Dubai, offers a few days respite including couples treatments in their awardwining spa. Spoil yourself in this urban sanctuary.

Cultural

Notes for May

This eloquent ballerina sketch forms the inspiration behind Van Cleef and Arpels’s latest high jewellery offering about to hit Middle Eastern shores. Mysteriously complex and dynamically beautiful, visit their boutiques to find out more for yourself.

We look towards floral notes and dreamy destinations in pursuit of a romance-fuelled May.

British singer-songwriter Corinne Bailey Rae is responsible for some of the decade’s most stunning songs – remember Put Your Records On? And, this month, she releases her new album, The Heart Speaks in Whispers, including Been to the Moon and Tell Me, creating the perfect backdrop to a summer’s evening.

It’s official – the ballerina slipper is back. Worn with a free spirited dress and optional flowers in the hair, this perfectly pretty pair with ankle laces from Etro will see you through any seasonal soiree.

Helmut Newton: Pages from the Glossies, by the Helmut Newton Foundation in Germany, moves into its final days of public viewings. The iconic photographer’s work spans almost a quarter decade and remains as an exceptional reflection of fashion throughout those years. Running until May 22nd.

One of this season’s It-bags comes from the brand fast becoming the coolest kid on the fashion block, Coach. Here, they sow the seeds of a vibrant day bag – energetic, functional and good enough for an impromptu afternoon stroll.

“Every flower is a soul blossoming in nature’ – Gerard de Nerval’s quote eloquently opens Assouline’s new release, Flowers: Art and Bouquets. From Manet to Van Gogh, the book is a visual celebration of flora, interpreted across a spectrum of colourful mediums.

Sarelle’s Ramadan offering captures a sense of opulence and occasion with demure shapes, iridescent hues and floor-length sweeping gowns. Brocade, pearls and dreamy blues steal the show.

Pasquale Bruni presents a precious heart, woven with threads of white gold and completed with an emerald drop, meant to sit close to the heart chakra. The unique piece is built to sit with the stone at the front or back, and in either scenario, offers a pure and positive force for the wearer.

“I was thinking about the confrontation between the beauty of the past and what makes sense today,” said Miuccia Prada on the new Les Infusions de Prada perfume line. Consisting of six unisex fragrances, each infusion reveals a distinct personality and is more unique, characteristic and rare than the one before.

Head down to what’s arguably the most romantic spot in the Middle East, Pier Chic at Dubai’s Madinat Jumeirah, to experience a delectable destination lunch. The new menu, curated by award-winning Chef Nicholas Cuadrado, melds some house favourites with a fresh twist, holding its place as the most stunning seafood restaurant in town.

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Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s In A Rose? Step into summer with one of our most loved scents, sweet rose. Select timeless and soft formulas to work as an extension of your personality and to deliver a fresh botanical allure.

Left to right: VALENTINO, Valentina Poudre at Harvey Nichols Dubai | NINA RICCI, Caresse de roses | CAROLINA HERRERA, 212 Vip Rose Eau de Parfum at Harvey Nichols Dubai

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, words by Sophie Pasztor

f i n al n ote

Photographed by NORBERT KNIAT

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