May Issue #77 by MOJEH

o e r da dream t

a gain

Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906

DUBAI • ABU DHABI www.vancleefarpels.com

Frivole collection

Clip pendant and ring, yellow gold and diamonds.

Stay at Home. Louis will take care of all your requests… Enquire about Louis Fourteen’s new App.

T: +971 4 425 8600 | E: lifestyle@louisfourteen.com

10 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Print Sales Manager RABIH EL TURK

Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Office Manager JULIA NICOLAE

Deputy Editor LUCY WILDMAN

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Staff Writer JENNA CALVERT

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Contributing Editors HAFSA LODI REBECCA ANNE PROCTOR

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Contributing Photographers ARJAY NAVARRO AUSRA OSIPAVICIUTE VIVIENNE + TAMAS

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LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Guest Fashion Stylists DAVOR JELUSIC STUART ROBERTSON

Tel: +971 4 425 86 00 Email: louis@louisfourteen.com

ART

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN

Cover photographed by VIVIENNE + TAMAS SMILIA HERBST wears dress by VALENTINO

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (February-June 2018): 11,077 copies For the UAE printed by United Printing and Publishing. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

FASHION

BEAUTY

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

LIFESTYLE

VIDEOS

MODEST MUSE: Be inspired by modern kaftans, maxi

REGIONAL ROCKS: From Emirati designer Noora Shawqi

silhouettes and luxury lightweight linens that take you

to Omani brand Hak the Label, MOJEH.com is set to

from Ramadan to Eid. Stay tuned for our modest fashion

shine a light on the Middle Eastern jewellery brands

edits and celebrate the holy month in style.

making waves in the industry.

VIRTUAL ESCAPES: With travel on pause,

BEAUTY CHECKLIST: Highlighting summer

THE GIFT GUIDE: Shop sustainably this

we search for alternative ways to see the

beauty trends, must-have launches,

Eid and search for keep-forever pieces;

world. Whether it’s a virtual trip through

expert advice and homegrown brands,

from opulent bags to fanciful footwear

Venice’s canals, a digital pit-stop in

head to MOJEH.com to source your new

and fabulous fine jewels. Log on to find our

Monaco or a high-tech gallery tour.

beauty essentials for Eid and beyond.

curated selection of gifting ideas.

MOJEH.COM THE LATEST IN STYLE AND LUXURY

12 28

THE MONTH THAT CHANGED MY LIFE As the battle against Covid-19 continues,

three incredible society women recount how

last month changed their worlds forever

NATURAL HIGH Valentino, McQueen and L’Afshar make their case for an all-white summer

LOCAL HERO

Deputy Editor Lucy Wildman debates why there has

never been a more important time to shop local

HAUTE HIGHS From the dream-like nature of a sea of blue to Dior’s exploration of ‘What if women ruled the world?’ MOJEH rounds up the Haute Couture pieces to lose yourself in for the months ahead

118

122

RAY OF LIGHT Designer Bazza Alzouman’s summer collection

is a spectacular display of light and colour

STATE OF PLAY

118

Photography duo Vivienne +Tamas capture

the new rules for dynamic dressing-up

OUT OF THIS WORLD MEMOIRS MOJEH editors journey back in time to the extraodinary escapes that have inspired them the most

122

MAKING ANGELS

Model and humanitarian Noëlla Coursaris Musunka

tells MOJEH how her dream to build a school in Democratic Republic of Congo became a reality

EDITOR’S LETTER

HOLDING ON TO HOPE “I think it’s important for people to be able to enjoy beautiful things, from time to time, even if they are not essential to our survival.” These are the words of young, Kuwait-based designer Bazza Alzouman whom we spoke to in mid-April following a photoshoot for the issue (page 54). While the sentiment lifted me for days, I was also aware that beneath Bazza’s bravery lay the same anxieties that have become status-quo for boutique business owners and creatives in the fashion industry and beyond. It’s in that spirit that we created an issue which confronts the sobering realities of Covid-19, while also offering some-much-needed-joy through a juxtaposed fantasy land of frivolous fashion and stunning landscapes that are perfect for retreating into, if only for a fleeting moment. We are honoured to feature March memoirs from three incredible women and friends of the brand and, as each of their stories unfurls, I move from speechless to inspired and everything in-between (page 20). Maxine English, Maha Gorton and Ruth Bradley – thank you for sharing your very real and very personal experiences of life under lockdown. Similarly, model and humanitarian Noëlla Coursaris Musunka invites you to the Democratic Republic of Congo where promises of prosperity for underprivileged children are increasingly challenged against the backdrop of the pandemic. But through commendable determination, Noëlla has provided a new world where education and creativity foster hopes and dreams (page 122). And in the moments where you seek aspiration and escapism, turn to Dare To Dream Again in which MOJEH celebrates a decade of dynamic design from the highest accolade of fashion – there really is nothing quite like getting lost in a world of fantastical Haute Couture (page 78). We hope that the May issue brings you closer to your community and serves as a reminder that you are not alone. Despite it being amid an unsettling time, I also encourage you to embrace and escape into its beauty whilst remembering that your own dreams are still just around the corner. Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

State Of Play, photographed by Vivienne+Tamas

THE MOJEH EDIT

4 6

TALKING POINT

HOME ALONE With social distancing the new normal, MOJEH reveals ways to cope with having more personal space than you could have ever needed or wanted before. Words by Lucy Wildman

Photographed by Michelle Du Xuan, MOJEH 35

hile none of us could have foreseen how 2020 was going to turn out, the reality of life with Covid-19 continues to change the world as we know it on a daily basis. The one consistent? Extreme social distancing. And while many people are sharing homes with their families and loved ones during the pandemic and its subsequent lockdown, personal isolation is now a fact for millions of people living alone across the UAE and beyond. As MOJEH goes to press, governmental advice states only first and second degree relatives may meet one another. Furthermore, the number of people present in a place at any one time may not exceed five individuals, and strict guidelines of social distancing must be observed. Practicing social distancing is currently the only morally and socially responsible existence there is. But in a city that boasts hundreds of thousands of people that live alone, warding off loneliness – and all its side effects – is an experience the majority have never faced before, and are struggling with. “Under normal circumstances, isolation is not a natural state of human existence, since we are wired to be socially connected with others and foster a sense

of belonging,” says Dr Vedrana Mladina, clinical psychologist and senior wellness counsellor at NYU Abu Dhabi. “Struggling with this new, enforced period of isolation is a totally normal human response,” agrees Dubai-based life coach Ebru Goksu Yildirim. “For some of us, the idea of isolation may seem like a dream come true. For others, the thought of being cut off from the outside world, alone or with only a few close family members, will fill them with dread. Whatever we are feeling, it’s all OK, because we are no longer in our comfort zones, and trying to adjust to a new, rather strange way of life.” Adapting to unchartered territory is a difficult process, but clinical director and psychologist Dr. Tara Wyne of The Lighthouse Arabia believes that acceptance, willingness and psychological flexibility are huge assets when trying to tame psychological struggles of this kind. “This is an unprecedented time, and there are a lot of things to deal with,” says Dr. Tara. “People are anxious, disoriented, fearful, apprehensive and their brains are inundated with worry. Our response is naturally to go into survival mode, where our brain interprets this as a time of danger and threat, and we

“

Making meaning of struggle can transform it from pain to an opportunity. Through crisis, we learn to bridge between the pain to a stronger and more resilient self.

act accordingly. But there are coping mechanisms and practices that can help us to process what is going on around us. While we haven’t invited or welcomed this painful situation, once we meet it, we benefit from engaging with it, and using our energy and resources not to resist, but to come up with ways in which we can continue to function and meet our needs,” she explains. “We accept that this virus is here, and willingly adopt new behaviours like social distancing and hand washing to reduce the likelihood of us getting infected and affected. We are creative and inventive about how to meet our core needs and are willing to accept the fact things may be less than perfect, both in ourselves, and in others. And we will seek help if we feel we need it, and adapt to this new situation in a way that is considered and pragmatic.” Effective because they quieten our threat response, these suggestions activate our para-sympathetic nervous system, which helps us to feel more calm, relaxed, safe and most importantly, secure. “Like with any hardship, if we know and understand why this period of isolation is happening, and if it’s meaningful to go through for a higher good or personal gain, we are able to manage it better and come out of it without major consequences,” adds Dr. Vedrana. Staying positive and reminding ourselves of the bigger picture is imperative – being aware that

staying at home in isolation means we are playing our part in saving lives, and flattening the curve helps adjust to this strange new situation dramatically. “They say that making meaning of struggle can transform it from pain to an opportunity,” notes Dr. Tara. “We see that through crisis, we learn to bridge between the pain to a stronger and more resilient self. If we can hold ourselves steady through our fears, losses and anxieties, we come out knowing that we can navigate even the worst of times with kindness and friendship. We acknowledge deeper value and appreciation of the blessings we receive in normal times, and we live our lives with more gratitude, engagement and vitality.” However, how well people living alone deal with isolation depends entirely upon the individual’s personality. “If a person is naturally more anxious to begin with, they might reach their personal negative peak sooner than someone else who is calm and grounded,” explains Dr. Vedrana. “But we all go through ups and downs in different phases of confinement. It’s to be expected. But it’s also worth reminding ourselves that our individual actions and the personal struggles we are experiencing are a valuable contribution to the greater good of the human race. Our efforts are all worth it, and this situation is not going to last forever.”

Image courtesy of MATCHESFASHION featuring Cecilie Bahnsen, Emilia Wickstead, Valentino, D’Ascoli and Luisa Beccaria

Dr. Tara Wyne

SET DAILY GOALS Set an intention for each day to stay motivated and on track. Achieving daily goals gives a sense of control and purpose, and helps to focus your mind.

NO MAN (OR WOMAN) IS AN ISLAND 10 WAYS TO COPE WITH ISOLATION

REPURPOSE YOUR SPACE Creating a space for each activity helps you focus on the task in hand. Create a desk area where you can work, clear a large enough space that you can exercise in and try not to do anything other than sleep in your bedroom.

CREATE A ROUTINE Structure makes us feel safer, and routines allow us to plan ahead. Create a fixed schedule similar to

STAY CONNECTED

the one you had previously. If you

You may not be able to meet up in

worked in your office 9-5 before you

person, but staying connected with

began working from home, work for

friends and loved ones using video

these hours only, and make sure you

technology allows us to maintain eye

take a lunch break. Get up and go to

contact and take note of non-verbal

bed at the same time as you usually would. Try as much as possible to keep your existing personal daily routines, or make new routines that help you create structure.

LEARN A NEW SKILL With more free time available, try

FOCUS ON WHAT YOU CAN CONTROL, NOT WHAT YOU CAN’T Uncertainty breeds anxiety and insecurity, and staying in control helps us maintain our sanity. You cannot control numerous situations related to the pandemic, but you can control other things. Think about what

and learn something new, or take

is going on right now, and don’t let you mind

on a hobby. There’s no need to be

wander into the future. You can control what

bored – utilise the opportunity to do

you eat, how much exercise you do, what

something of value that you never

you wear, what music you listen to, who you

had the time to do before,

choose to speak to, and what your topic

and consider how useful it will be to

of conversation will be. This gives a sense

you once the period of isolation is

of order and stability, and stops us fixating

finally over.

upon things we have no control over.

cues. Apps like Zoom and Houseparty are enabling millions of people to work from home and help keep friends and family connected. If you prefer an alternative, a good, old-fashioned phone call will never go amiss in cheering up someone’s day.

LIMIT YOUR NEWS CONSUMPTION Find a healthy balance in relation to how much media you view. Only allow yourself to update on the world’s news once or twice a day, and only read news from credible sources.

PRACTICE SELF-CARE

EXERCISE EVERY DAY

Maintaining personal hygiene, getting

While the UAE government has approved up

Living and working in a messy

TIDY UP

plenty of sleep, eating healthy food,

to two hours of personal outdoor exercise

environment adds to the feeling of

drinking lots of water, practicing

each day, online workouts allow you to

unneccessary stress and general

breathing, relaxation, gratitude and

subsidise your activity when you have to be

chaos. Make your bed when you get

mindfulness techniques that help to

indoors. Do something that makes you break

up, clean up after yourself, tidy your

reduce anxiety, stress and worry, and

a sweat daily – regular exercise is essential

desk at the end of your working day,

getting dressed every day are essential .

to maintaining both our physical and mental

and use free time at the weekends

Take time to do things you enjoy, and be

health, and will help us come out of this time

to declutter for an hour. An ordered

nice to yourself.

looking better than when we went into it.

home keeps an ordered mind.

MOJEH WOMEN

The Month That Changed My Life As the battle against Covid-19 continues, MOJEH asks three incredible women how last month changed their world forever

MAXINE ENGLISH I lost a friend last month to Covid-19. A real friend. A blow to the heart, knock the wind out of your sails, close to home, terrifying-reality-of-a-loss type of friend. He left behind a beautiful wife and two small children. It’s hard to believe he’s really gone. Strangely enough, the absolute knowledge that my business had lost all of its income, all pending projects and that I had no ability to predict how my future looked, had not, until that point, had the devastating impact that it might have. What happened was that the life-sized hole that had been left by this man brought everything sharply into focus. At that point, the harsh reality of this disease and its effects brought me crashing to my knees. January 2020 had been like all of my stars had aligned, and my fledgling new company, Park Lane Live, was flourishing. I’d been awarded a Golden Visa by the country I call home to cement the fact that my contribution to developing the UAE’s arts and culture industry was to continue, and that it was appreciated at the highest level. I was working on incredible events with people I admire, on subjects that

are important, and my creative license was at full throttle. We had plans through until 2021, my road map was set. I turned down an incredible dream job offer because I believed that this business and my plan was the way forward. When I first heard about the virus outbreak in Wuhan, the news was frightening. But I felt fairly safe in the knowledge that this wouldn’t affect us. It was too far away. It was far enough away for us to look on in horror and say things like ‘Isn’t it awful?’ and ‘Can you IMAGINE?’ Looking back, I’ve asked myself, if I could have known, if I could have planned, what would I have done differently? Could I have done anything differently? I asked myself every day, ‘do we keep on working? Do we become experts in online learning? Do we try and change direction and work in a new industry, or hang on until ours comes back to life? Do we do daily PE with Joe Wicks and get abs of steel? Do we just bake? What’s the answer?’ What became frighteningly apparent was that not one single person knew, and the real truth was there wasn’t an answer to my question, nor, more terrifyingly to me, was there a plan. So how do I cope? How do you plan when you can’t plan?

Compiled by Lucy Wildman

Partner, Park Lane Live

I don’t know when the world of events will open again here, but I do know that I can be ready for it. I have a new brand, my website has had a refresh. My ideas for all the things I have thought about in the wee small hours are on paper. I’m learning, online and offline, how to be ready for things like this in the future, how the events industry is evolving literally overnight to deal with this challenge. But most of all, I have become a part of things. My sole focus has now become wider. Way, way wider. I have built relationships I didn’t think I would build or knew that I needed to. This pandemic has led to epic people forming partnerships and communities and groups. Delivering hope and the solid foundations for plans that when we come out of this, we will continue to work together for a more unified industry. I have been uplifted by people who I previously didn’t know. I have created projects based around passion for no other benefit than to lift people’s spirits, and out of that has not only come real joy but opportunities I had never even considered before. Then it all came to a halt and the grief washed over me; grief for my friend, grief for my business, grief for the plans that will never come to fruition. I was floored. How do you start again despite all the great things we’d experienced through our work over the last few months? I felt all was lost, and the work we’d done was pointless. But my community picked me back up and steadied me; showed me how to refocus, how to cope, how to grieve and how to get back on track. The communities that are forming now are everything.

“

So many brains working in the same direction can only bring change – good, creative change. It’s life-affirming to be part of that future, despite not knowing exactly what that future will be. Maxine English

They have taught me it is OK to say, ‘I am not OK today,’ and people that you know, and people that you don’t, will lift you up. You learn that you too can be that person for someone else. They are giving me ideas on top of my ideas, driving plans forward to the next level. Collaboration is becoming an integral part of the future, where we are unified and no longer in competition with one other. It’s exciting, because so much shared knowledge is coming out of the other side of this. So many brains put together, working in the same direction can only bring change – good, creative change. It’s life-affirming to be a part of that future, despite not knowing exactly what that future will be. I don’t know what will happen ‘next.’ I don’t know if more grief will come. What I do know is that I am focused on what I can do today, for my own tomorrow and for everyone else’s too.

MAHA GORTON Designer and brand ambassador

“Do people really eat bats?” my eight-year-old son asked me, eyes wide as he clambered into the car after school. As I tossed the backpacks, kit bags and lunch boxes in the boot, a discussion broke out – my 11-year-old daughter and eight-year-old twin boys had gained a wealth of information about a deadly virus that had reportedly originated from a bat in China. Half listening as I navigated the school run traffic, I was entertained by how they debated the alleged facts they had gathered in the playground. This was at the start of February, when current affairs were not at the top of my list of things to keep up with. In the process of finalizing a collection for Ramadan and preparing to return to London for surgery, I dismissed the furore of corona virus as media frenzy, and didn’t have the headspace to attempt to try and process it. I had surgery at the beginning of March, and suddenly everything changed. A heady combination of post-anesthesia haze and painkiller-induced fogginess made it incredibly difficult to process the news flooding my phone from Dubai. The spring holidays were being brought forward two weeks; schools were being closed, and people returning from abroad were being quarantined. My heart broke. Leaving Dubai, I had looked forward to the children joining me in London for their school holiday. But how would they manage distance learning without me? Everything was incredibly surreal. In London, things appeared to continue as normal. Yet back home, life was about to become very different and I wasn’t there to guide my kids through it. On the work front, assignments were being cancelled because of budget constraints, and the factory were struggling to find what were usually readily-available materials, jeopardizing the completion of the whole Ramadan collection. Ten days later, I learned I would need more surgery, but it would have to wait until the pandemic was over. Yes, it was now a pandemic. Surgeries were being rescheduled, oncology appointments conducted over the phone – and flights were being cancelled. My instinct was to rush to the airport, and in any other circumstance I would have, but I was still too weak to travel, let alone be isolated in a room by myself for a fortnight as the law decreed. Guilt consumed me. Other mothers were navigating the pressures of being a parent and a teacher on top of everything else that lockdown and isolation brings. I should have been there dealing with the same, but I’d just had major surgery, and for the first time in my adult life, I had to put myself first. I couldn’t sleep wondering how my children were going to cope without me there, and if their father would be able to handle it all. A little over two weeks later, I was advised to fly back to Dubai immediately – or risk there being no flights at all for the foreseeable future. If I didn’t go right away, I may not see my

“

This crisis has forced us all to strip down our daily lives; to simplify things and focus on what we really need Maha Gorton

little ones for four months, if not more. So I took the flight, and write this from the confines of a hotel room, where I will ride out the Government-imposed 14-day quarantine alone. It has been an incredibly emotional and anxiety-fuelled few months. In our fast-paced world, especially as mothers, we rarely get the opportunity to truly reflect; to allow the metaphoric dust to settle and really process what is going on in our lives. In my situation, I’m very aware that my experience has been strikingly different to others – almost one of reverse empty nest syndrome. The life I’ve dedicated myself to for the last 11 years just kept ticking along without me. We raise our children to be independent, and set up our businesses to be capable of eventually operating without us, a true marker of its success. And so daily distance learning commenced with nothing more than a few technical glitches; orders were processed and deliveries dispatched without error. It’s a bitter-sweet moment of realization – feelings of guilt for being away during this time mixed with pride of the children’s independence, gratitude for my family’s support as well as the regret it took so much and so long to truly put myself first. I’m aware of the emotional heaviness that hangs over me. In the confines of this room, the silence is crippling, but even the quietest music is too much to endure. I cannot wait to feel those arms around – yet I sit here anxious and aware that my homecoming is likely to be incredibly overwhelming. Coming out of this, as I sincerely hope we are, I carry many lessons with me. Firstly, that I need to have more faith in the incredible resilience of my children at such tender ages. They’ve powered through and adapted to change with such positivity and maturity, I couldn’t be prouder. Second, this crisis has forced us all to strip down our daily lives; to simplify things and focus on what we really need. It’s forced me to delegate, relinquish control and allowed me the headspace to focus on ideas I never made time for, and get inspired once again. Finally, and most importantly, this time has reminded me be kinder to myself. I’m just a human; this myriad of emotions is normal, and this too shall pass.

“

I don’t know what I would have done without that created-by-chance kinship, but it kept me going in some of my darkest moments, and taught me that fundamentally, we are never alone Ruth Bradley

RUTH BRADLEY Founder, Ruth Bradley PR

When the Covid-19 crisis hit the region at the end of March, I was, along with thousands of other UAE residents, outside of Dubai on holiday with my two youngest children. On the day we left, there was no travel ban in place in the UAE; no social distancing, businesses were operating as normal, everything was open and functioning, and what was happening in China and Europe seemed a million miles away from our very comfortable and protected lives in Dubai. Midway through our trip, however, the UAE resident’s ban was announced. Anyone outside of the country had to return home, immediately. And so, it began. Weeks of trying desperately to reunite my family, beset with challenges from every direction. And throughout that very surreal journey, things changed. We changed. But in that upside-down, back-to-front, topsy-turvy nightmare, we made beautiful new friendships, discovered stoic resolve, and a strength and unity that I honestly never knew myself or my children possessed. We were amongst the very fortunate few given the chance to fly home before Dubai airport fully closed to passengers. And, upon our return, it was there that we lived for a week. Yes, just like Tom Hanks in the movie Terminal, along with hundreds of other residents, before being moved into hotel quarantine for a second week, graciously orchestrated by the UAE government and the staff of Dubai Tourism – people who I can only describe as angels. I discovered many things about myself and humanity during those two weeks. But here are just three of them.

First: never apologise for who you are. My view of the world, life and how to raise my children is never going to be the same as someone else’s. And that’s OK. But ask my kids if they want ordinary, or adventure, and they won’t hesitate to tell you which they’d prefer. On the way back from Zanzibar, as we queued to board the plane, at a particularly fraught moment, I turned to the kids and asked, “tell me honestly, do you wish we were a bit more normal?” To which Rafi (aged eight) replied, aghast, “What do you meeean, we’re totally normal!” We were about to board a flight in Africa, wearing masks and gloves, not even knowing if we’d get back into the UAE at the other end. But it suddenly occurred to me that they’ve only ever known this life, full of adventure and excitement, traveling the world and experiencing new cultures and countries. It’s what took us to the Middle East to begin with. For them this was normal. And I’m answerable only to them – no one else. Second: you are never too old to make beautiful friendships. Something remarkable happened while we were living in the airport. A bunch of strangers, many of whom ordinarily would have never met or developed anything beyond a passing politeness, bonded beyond words. Our unbelievably wierd, shared experience created a ‘community.’ In that next fortnight, we shared everything: laughter, support, tears, happiness, frustration, and every emotion in between. We all looked out for each other and had each other’s backs. We were, in short, ‘in this together’. I honestly don’t know what I would have done without that createdby-chance kinship, but it kept me going in some of my darkest moments and taught me that fundamentally, we are never alone. My final realization? Human beings are inherently good. I will never be able to thank enough, all of the amazing people who rushed to help, not just my children and I during this situation, but the countless others experiencing unprecedented adversity during our uncertain time in quarantine. I was overwhelmed by the kindness I witnessed. I still am. There was no judgement. No expectation. Only pure love, empathy and compassion. More than anything else, I’ve been taught about the true value of community; of friendship and of family, the value of time, the value of patience, of humour and of empathy. The kindness of strangers and a humanity that is so much more good than bad. It’s taught me that we are not alone. Ever. Because if you reach out into the abyss, there will always be someone who reaches back and offers a hand to help guide you home, wherever you might happen to be.

Tiffany T1 ring and necklace, TIFFANY & CO.

Yasmin Al Mulla’s YNM Ramadan collection is inspired by the contemporary twists and turns of Tiffany & Co.’s latest collection. Here, the Emirati fashion designer talks us through her designs What inspired you about the Tiffany T1 collection? The dazzling T1 pieces which combine clean lines and graphic forms with new, elegant, angular and feminine proportions, and the way it is beautifully elevated with expertly set diamonds. It’s the perfect celebration of timeless minimalism. How did you interpret those notions into your clothing designs? Jewellery has always been a true form of inspiration to me — I believe that my designs can’t be worn without jewellery, a crucial element in each lady’s outfit. I transformed the delicacy of the diamonds into detailed, wearable embroidery which then ran through the entire collection. Tell us about your choice of colour? The colour scheme is formed by the cluster of nature, the facets in a diamond, and the symmetrical lines of T1. I highlighted the beautiful modest silhouette of the classic kaftans with a YNM Ramadan collection featuring Tiffany & Co. Tiffany T1, photographed by Francesco Luigi Scotti

modern and contemporary twist — using neutral tones, powder pink, blanc, and rich materials such as Japanese silk, Spanish crepe, and Italian organza. Tiffany T1 is a celebration of strong females. What makes you feel empowered? My country: we are so blessed, and fortunate to live in this beautiful country where women take their chances in all fields; where female voices are heard; and where women are celebrated on a daily basis. Growing up in the UAE is a privilege and an inspiring thing, as the rapid developments urge us to work hard to keep up and develop ourselves. We are very driven in representing our country in a very optimistic way. What makes you feel most inspired? Beauty in all aspects: a beautiful book;

Interview by Kelly Baldwin

a beautiful word; a beautiful destination; or a beautiful art piece. I appreciate and treasure beauty on so many levels. I try to find a positive perspective for everything around me. What are you most grateful for this Holy month? To me, Ramadan is all about connecting and being close to my loved ones, those who nourish my mind and my heart. Family, friends, and relatives. Togetherness of people, a sense of community, and a sense of unity.

THE INSPIRATION

AT ONE

26 Photographed by Hill + Aubrey

GLITTER BUG

SUMMER CALLING

A high-octane slide should be at the top of your SS20 list; the perfect piece to take you from the beach to brunch and back again.

ESCALE ESCAPE Louis Vuitton’s latest launch, Escale, paints the picture of a seaside holiday inspired by the age-old Japanese technique, shibori, which consists of twisting and knotting fabric and then dyeing it. The result is a collection that is all at once colourful, energetic and playful. Think indigo blue scarves made to be worn around the waist or shoulders; tie-dye bags big enough for a day out; and athletic-style swimwear perfect for a high-energy summer. ZIMMERMANN

BOTTEGA VENETA at Ounass

Rene Caovilla

TALLER’S TALE

ROCHAS at Matches Fashion

“For a long time our moodboards had pictures of the 50s, 60s and 70s jet-set enjoying their holidays in Italy, France and Greece. And so we wanted to create a collection that brought that sense of happiness, wellness and relaxation to the woman who wears it, using some elements from those eras. Think of Jackie O in Capri, Brigitte Bardot in St. Tropez and Maria Callas in Greece,” designers Yago Goicoechea and Riccardo Audisio of Taller Marmo tell MOJEH. Look towards the energetic hues such as orange and yellow, melded into glorious silhouettes.

DIOR

ISLAND VIBES “This is a happy, undeniably escapist collection, conveyed through colourful and energetic images, and I thought it might cheer you up. As a visual feast, probably, or an aide-mémoire of better times to come. I’ll be happy for you to enjoy it, quite simply and very spontaneously,” said Loewe’s creative director, Jonathan Anderson, on the launch of his Paula’s Ibiza collection. Fueled with heady prints, bohemian-inspired cuts and beach-worthy accessories, each piece makes for an epic ode to summer. Loewe will be donating 40 euros to educational projects focused on The Paula’s Ibiza campaign was shot in New Delhi, India by Gray Sorrenti

children in socially vulnerable groups – in particular, those effected by Covid-19 – for every product sold between May and August 2020.

DID SOMEONE SAY BERMUDA? Whether styled for summer in Capri, yachting in Monaco, or suitably tailored for the 9-5, Bermuda shorts – in their many, many forms – are your new wardrobe staple. Left to right: ALBERTA FERRETTI, STAUD, CHLOE

STYLE EDIT

Natural High A cleansing colour palette melded with intricate design paves the way for simply exquisite style Photography by Arjay Navarro Styling by Stuart Robertson

Inspired by endangered flowers, a recurring theme for Sarah Burtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s McQueen, the Magnolia-shaped heel has been sculpted and 3D printed in resin to naturalistic effect. Wear with city shorts or knee-length skirts for full effect. Shoes, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Handmade in Dubai and in support of local talent, regional favourite Liliane Afshar flies the flag for Middle Eastern design. Made from acrylic and sporting a quilted effect, the Tilda bag is both cool and contemporary. Bag, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;AFSHAR

“White is the most inclusive colour, the one that comprehends all the others and that resets all differences, showing us all as nothing else than human beings,” Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli on the launch of his Le Blanc collection. The Rope Nappa Sandal is a stylish salute to the most inclusive of hues. Sandals, VALENTINO

This miniature Gate changes from controlled to malleable with the addition of its tousling fringe. Wear with a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;give-a-damnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; attitude and allow the tassels to move anywhere that the wind blows. Bag, LOEWE

THE NOTEWORTHY

32 METAMORPHIC MASTERPIECES Butterflies are widely acknowledged as an insignia of The MKS Ataya bracelets. Below: The Keepsakes collection

endurance, change, hope, and life. Cindy Chao’s latest Black Label Masterpiece, the Aurora Butterfly, features rubies, diamonds and sapphires in a stunning display of light, colour and most importantly, transformation – a timely message as we find ourselves in unfamiliar terrain.

DOUBLE-IMPACT JEWELS MOJEH speaks to MKS founder, HRH Sheikha Mariam bint Khalifa bin Saif Al Nahyan, about her latest collection and charity initiative How were you inspired to create the Keepsakes collection? Sentiment and storytelling are always at the core of everything that I design and create – they are my inspiration. I wanted to design something meaningful, personal and sentimental with a unique message. Hearing the stories of my great grandfathers, Baba Zayed and Al Otaiba ‘the King of Pearls’, I was inspired by their values, visions, adventures, courage, stories and photos. I created this collection as a tribute to them; after all it’s their stories that I dream of and their values that I live by. What are the main elements of the collection? Bringing to light the pearling culture, which is very much the heritage that Abu Dhabi was built on, my great grandfather’s stories and all that I imagined their courageous adventures lead them to. I was initially inspired by the rope – the line that connected the diver to the boat and the rope that held the sails up – both of these lines are used as a form of trust and connection. I have carried that forward into the new Keepsakes collection and taken it further with the tied together artisan handmade knots. Why did you choose to partner with Ataya, a charity exhibition organized by Emirates Red Crescent? We visited the UAE-Jordon run Mrajeeb Al Fhood Refugee Camp in Jordan and were amazed by the hard work and dedication. The longevity and ethics of the charity is very important to us, and contributing to their causes makes us proud. Tell us more about the bracelets you created for the initiative? We made 100 miniature versions of the charms in 18kt gold and travelled with Afra Atiq, a talented poet and incredible human being, to the camp. Women of all ages contributed to this project, from girls who were eight years old to women who were 70. All their incredible stories were inspired by a symbol they picked themselves and then later wrote about. What was the most memorable moment of the journey? It resulted in us having 100 bracelets, each with a unique story, that we then brought back to the UAE and sold at Ataya where all proceeds were donated back to the camp. Additionally, the customers that purchased them wrote back to the women and children, and we believe that this connection is absolutely priceless.

Top: Black Label Masterpiece Aurora Butterly Brooch (front and back). Below: Black Label Masterpiece VI Reflection Bangle, both CINDY CHAO

The Californian super bloom sets the scene for Carolina Herrera’s Ramadan looks, says creative director, Wes Gordon When I was designing the SS20 collection, I was fascinated by this natural phenomenon that was the Californian super bloom. Wild flowers were carpeting hills that would normally be dry land because of irregular rain and pollination patterns. I was drawn to the pigmentrich colours and that rich visual impact. I wanted to translate the hyper-saturated and rich colour palette into this collection. Everything from vibrant yellow, hot pink, brilliant orange and bold blue mix with prints that resembled ephemeral desert fields blanketed in lilies, verbena and lupine. Silhouettes are dramatically short or extravagantly long and were moulded to resemble beautiful shapes found in nature. Yards of delicate silks are draped to mimic a budding rose and move like a wildflower on a windy day. I also used light chiffons and cottons with embroideries of lily of the valley and roses, as well as black and white polka dots - the veritable neutral of the house of Herrera. Every season I’m inspired by the powerful and strong women of the world. The woman that has her own style and knows what works for her. Fashion is an outlet to express yourself, and it injects instant joy into your life. This to me summarizes the Middle Eastern woman and her passion for craftsmanship, design and colour. Now more than ever, I’m inspired to continue creating designs that will make you smile and bring joy. In a world that has so much uncertainly and darkness, I turn to colour and inspiration in nature and culture as a means of personal expression.

THE MOTIF

FANTASY FLORALS

TALKING POINT

L O C A L

HERO Why there’s never been a more important time than now to support and protect the Middle Eastern fashion industry Words by Lucy Wildman

Top and trousers, ASHI STUDI | Photograhed by Vivienne Balla, MOJEH 67

long with numerous things that make the UAE an exceptional country, the diversity of its fashion landscape is a glittering jewel in its crown. But as Covid-19 continues to ravage economies in every sector of industry, the global pandemic could mean some of the UAE’s most cherished home-grown fashion labels face an uncertain future. With the region’s malls either closing their doors or limiting opening hours, what was once the beating shopping heart of the Middle East has suddenly come to a standstill, with fashion businesses forced to suspend operations and shutter their stores until further notice. And while larger fashion brands start counting the cost of this unprecedented move on their multi-billion dollar companies, the impact on smaller brands and independent labels could see them faced with no choice but to close their doors permanently. With no economic defibrillator in sight, how do we ensure the UAE’s independent fashion businesses survive this world-changing crisis, and what can be done to jump-start the retail industry’s pulse? “The single biggest thing regional fashion businesses need right now is for consumers to think locally, buy locally and support locally, in any capacity they can,” says Dubaibased fashion consultant and advisory board member of Fashion Trust Arabia, Nez Gebreel. “The Covid-19 crisis has impacted significantly upon every layer of our fashion industry, with locally-based designers and retailers arguably taking the biggest hit. It’s up to regional consumers to support our industry to ensure its survival.” One of many fashion entrepreneurs facing the fallout of the pandemic and its subsequent lockdown is Natalia Shustova. With a passion for supporting, developing and nurturing emerging regional designers as well as helping to bridge

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The single biggest thing that regional fashion businesses need right now is for consumers to think locally, buy locally and support locally in any way they can. Nez Gebreel

global creative talents with the Middle Eastern market, the 42-year-old founded fashion concept store The Design House, which opened in DIFC at the end of 2019. “We had some major plans for 2020,” says Natalia, recognized as one of Dubai’s most successful fashion influencers. “The business model of The Design House is based on regional designers and emerging labels renting a small space in our concept store to display their collections or products. This year, we had intended to expand the store offerings to include an F&B joint and a totally unique inhouse florist, as well as introducing an academy/common space for creatives,” she explains. “But because of Covid-19 and the restrictions which had to be implemented, the store is currently closed, and we have no idea when we will re-open.” It’s a similar story for Sima Barazi Haroun, co-founder of award-winning multi-brand jewellery and accessories boutique, Boom & Mellow. “Boom & Mellow first launched in 2005, and we were preparing to open the third store in the new Nakheel Mall on Palm Jumeirah at the end of April,” says Sima. “The fit-out had already been started at the beginning of March, but we had to press pause on everything just to allow us more clarity on the situation as it unfolded. We had to close our two existing stores as per government order, but immediately before that, people had already starting avoiding the malls – our store revenues had dropped 70 per cent in a week.” With no choice but to the accept immediate closure of physical stores, retailers have had to quickly adapt their business models in order to continue trading – the harsh reality being diversify your offering, or face sudden death. “Even though the original plan was to provide a beautiful retail space to a fashion-savvy community, we had to change tack, fast,” says Natalia. “We now offer shoppable content on our social media platforms through Whatsapp and Instagram, and deliver, contact-free, direct to our customers. E-commerce is coming really

soon, even though we didn’t intend to start until 2021.” For Sima, it meant focusing attention on part of her business she admits had been somewhat overlooked. “We’ve always had E-commerce as a hybrid with the store, but it’s only ever been complimentary as a secondary revenue stream, and we never gave it much time or effort. When we had to close our stores, we went fullforce focusing on E-tail” Adding more products from smaller designers who weren’t on their online platform before, as well as increasing the range of inspirational gifts, luxurious loungewear and pyjamas were added – a key product line enjoying inflated sales figures as people adjust to working from home. “Engaging in dialogue with customers through social media and newsletters with honesty and transparency and rallying support from the local community has been vital for us – it’s the most integral part of digital retail,” reveals Sima. With circumstances demanding fashion businesses focus purely upon their online presence, reacting to immediate change, strengthening their methods of selling through social media, developing customer engagement through targeted conversation, and perfecting systems and delivery processes are vital – all whilst implementing strategy to enhance in-store experience once lockdown is fully lifted. And while larger corporations may not be able to implement these changes as fast as they’d like, because of organizational protocols and procedures, smaller businesses have fewer layers of management to gain approvals from on rapid business updates –allowing them to respond faster to consumer’s immediate wants and needs, highlighting the malleability and resilience of the region’s smaller and more flexible fashion businesses. Indeed, as China slowly emerges from the pandemic, the world watches intently to see how it is re-starting its markets. According to Chinese government statistics, the world’s second-largest economy suffered a shrink of 6.8

Lorem ipsum dolor sametTopFrom top to bottom: DIFC concept store, The Design House; its founder Natalia Shustova; Boom & Mellow’s Sima Barazi Haroun.

per cent in the first quarter of 2020, it’s worst three-month period in decades. Further investigation by research firm Trivium reported 98 per cent of large companies in China have now resumed operations, while small businesses “are coming back to life,” with Trivium estimating that on average nationwide, SMEs are running at 82.6 per cent of capacity, compared to 76.8 per cent four weeks ago. With Chinese consumers returning to their online shopping habits, brands and influencers have also found new ways to shop, such as FaceTiming through WeChat or hosting livestreams where shoppers can buy product directly from celebrities or public figures – with a recent shopping livestream garnering 38 million viewers and generating over Dhs368 million in sales. “Direct-to-consumer is not just transactional. It’s about having a conversation with the consumer,” explains Nez. “I think a brand can adopt these new technologies but do it in its own way – you have to be where the consumer is. You can’t control channels, but you can get involved and engaged with them. It’s worthwhile finding a new way to be close with the customer and change the tone of your communication to suit.” What is unquestionably central to the industry’s survival not only during the pandemic but in the months ahead, is for regional consumers to continue their love affair with fashion – just conduct their relationship in a different way. “We simply cannot survive without a local customer base,” says Sima. “Their support is their contribution to ensure the survival of jobs and the local economy. Every small business and independent designer needs to be agile, re-strategise, alter their collections and try different sales channels. People are still shopping – you just need to feel the consumer and cater to their specific needs. “The next 6 months are going to be incredibly hard,” agrees Natalia. “But the industry absolutely will get through this. We just need regional consumers to support us and the home-grown talent we believe in. And we are working hard to make the whole #shoplocal movement gain momentum, as we highlight our abilities to offer flexible retail solutions whilst spotlighting the amazing talent that makes this region such a brilliant and forward-thinking centre of design.” And it’s not just business acumen that’s been heightened in the region during the pandemic. Instrumental in supporting fashion talent across MENA, in light of the coronavirus crisis, Fashion Trust Arabia has launched the #StandWithCreatives campaign, designed to unite the region’s fashion industry by shedding light on locallybased designers, entrepreneurs and creatives. Offering online exposure for their brand through the FTA’s social

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Engaging in dialogue with customers through social media with honesty and transparency is the most integral part of digital retail. Sima Barazi Haroun

media accounts, the movement aims to spread awareness and promote local businesses, as well as offering designers affected by the economic impact of COVID-19 the chance to apply for financial assistance from Fashion Trust Arabia. Attracting more than 2,000 posts and 1,500 Insta stories within the first week of the campaign’s launch, participants raising awareness about emerging designer talents and small independent labels ranged from MENA regional celebrities and influencers to industry heavyweights including Elie Saab, Nancy Ajram, Elissa, Farida Khelfa, Halima, Nadine Nassib Njeim, Shanina Shaik, Maya Diab, Georges Chakra, Rabih Kayrouz, Amel Bouchoucha, Lara Scandar, Valerie Abou Chacra, Rami Kadi, Ziad Nakad, and Nicolas Jebran. With the crisis highlighting the industry’s incessant production schedule, questions are being raised as to how seasonal collections will be affected – with current SS20 collections selling in vastly reduced numbers, the manufacture of AW20 collections halted or downsized, and SS21 collection shows cancelled because of social distancing measures, slowing the entire machine by combining or skipping seasonal collections is a hotlydiscussed topic across the industry. “It’s about survival right now, so you should do whatever works for you and your business,” says Nez. “For fashion brands, the option of amalgamating their seasonal collections makes a lot of financial sense. I know some larger independent designers have skipped production entirely this season. One of those in the UK is Teatum Jones, who have renamed their collection 2020 Part 1, and is all based on sustainable fashion and recycling fabric from previous collections, which I thought was a genius move.” If the existing fashion calendar of seasons does change globally however, local designers will ultimately be the ones more in tune with the climatic needs of the regional woman. Without being tied to classic fashion week schedules, or required to produce multiple collections, designers can

create at their own pace, allowing them to tap into needs and wants specific to the country they work from, or the client market they work to. “We work with emerging labels and creatives, the majority of whom produce very limited numbers of items not necessarily linked to seasons,” notes Natalia. “We encourage our community to produce and consume less. We never go on sale, as we have no overproduction of items, and styles we offer will still be relevant for years ahead. We hope ‘in season’ will become our new fashion cycle, as well as a totally new approach for collection launches.” With all aspects of the industry undergoing unprecedented change, what will this period of turbulence mean for the future of fashion? And how will it rebuild and reinvent itself post-crisis? Funneling our focus to shopping online, supporting the businesses grown in our own backyards and observing the ways in which megabrands adapt to consumer spending is of paramount importance to re-igniting the regional fashion economy. Experts suggest businesses, both large and small, use this time as an opportunity to reset and rethink their strategies, and understand that the most central concept to successful retail is always putting the customer first and listening to what they want. “This pause allows us to rethink and focus,” says Nez. “No-one can predict the future, but crises like these are catalysts to accelerate certain trends we were already seeing. While we talked about sustainability previously, this will now be at the forefront of everyone’s mind, as we move away from fast fashion towards a more manageable and considered approach, with a consumer-led focus on buying better and smarter than before. People will gravitate towards businesses and companies that have ethical standards and a considered purpose. There was already a shift towards this way of thinking, and consumers have the power to make change happen – which can only be a good thing for the future of environment and industry creatives.”

FASHION IN FOCUS

6 PURPLE NOON

Fashion edit by Kelly Baldwin Images: Go Runway and supplied

1 7

POWER PLAY

4 5

STYLE EDIT

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE Botanical embellishments, exotic skins and lush, tropical tones are the natural selection this season Photography by Arjay Navarro Styling by Stuart Robertson

Created exclusively for the Middle East in celebration of the holy month, Fendi have launched a limited-edition capsule of their most iconic styles. One of the five regional exclusives, the Baguette bag in emerald green crocodile with crystal hardware is an exquisitely-crafted investment piece in beautiful exotic leather. Bag, FENDI

May’s birthstone is the emerald – so what better month to indulge in a beautiful pair of emerald slippers? Tropical-shaped leaves crafted from silk and leather, finished with a glittering, gem-encrusted brooch combine to make the mules of the season – destined to draw envious gazes from far and wide. Mules, DOLCE & GABBANA

Named after house muse, Kaia Gerber, Saint Laurentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest bag is a modern style staple. Clean lines and infinite wearability ensure this effortlessly chic satchel will be the carry-all of choice for years to come. Upgraded in beautiful python with elegant bronze hardware, this nod to the rock and roll sensibilities of the French maison will appeal to all the bohemian insousiants amongst us. Bag, SAINT LAURENT

Following his tragic passing last month, celebrate the life and work of legendary Italian shoe designer Sergio Rossi, with one of his most elegant creations. Crafted in bronze pebbled leather, these classic slingback pumps are a forever purchase that will slip perfectly into a polished work from home wardrobe. Shoes, SERGIO ROSSI

HAUTE HIGHS From the dream-like nature of Schiaparelli and Valentino’s sea of blue to the unequivocally beautiful – albeit unexpected – splash of acid bright at Givenchy, MOJEH rounds up the Haute Couture pieces to lose yourself in for the months ahead

GIVENCHY

Fashion edit by Kelly Baldwin; Imagery supplied and GoRunway

HAUTE COUTURE

Acid brights punctuated throughout the Givenchy story

Silhouettes exploded in unexpected directions

An otherwise controlled colour palette interrupted by incandescent embellishment

THE LOVE LETTER After visiting the archives of the late Hubert de Givenchy, creative director Clare Waight Keller cited what would later become her final Haute Couture collection for the house, as a love letter to the legendary designer. Anchored by floral lace gowns and wildly magnificent silhouettes; think peplums reimagined, balloon sleeves and astute tailoring â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a colour palette that included tangerine, silver and lilac as just a few of the high notes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that was just as impressive.

Elsa Schiaparelliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interpretation nodded towards the animal kingdom

A spectrum of blue in operatic shapes at Givenchy

Layers of oceanic tones unfurled at Iris Van Herpen

Persian blue was left to eveningwear at Valentino

Ralph & Russoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s river of turquoise sequins

AS CALM AS THE SEA Midnight meets sky; sapphire crafted from rivers of sequins; and luminous cobalt turned animal print. The calming hue in all its gracious forms became the colour of the season from Ralph and Russo to Iris Van Herpen and Schiaparelli. Wear head-to-to toe or break with interludes of nudes.

Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri posed the question, What If Women Ruled The World? | Photographed by Sarah Blais

THE MESSAGE What If Women Ruled the World? A question raised by American artist Judy Chicago became the driving inspiration for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s spring/summer collection for Dior. The pair joined forces to reinterpret the struggle of female artists within Western history of art by highlighting a project once imagined by feminist artists in 1977 America. The result was a womb-shaped runway, designed by Chicago, where a predominantly golden host of goddesses walked in Chiuri’s curations. The divine colour – dear to the house since Monsieur Dior’s days – formed magnificent suits and gowns accented by metallic threads, reinterpretations of ancient peplums, and subtle prints. The golden parade was at times punctuated by floor-sweeping chiffon gowns in palettes of stormy blue, saffron and violet, while subtle weaves and braids allowed for flashes of skin to fleetingly show. Other themes included the feminization of armour through delicate bodices and reimagined chainmail, and wheat as an emblem used to adorn headpieces and dresses. A glorious demonstration of another realm.

50 Iris Van Herpen

Alexandre Vauthier

OUT OF THIS WORLD Frills and fancies came oversized and hyperbolic. Alexandre Vauthier paved the way with headpieces as high as the sky, while Viktor & Rolf created opulent accents from reused materials. Iris Van Herpen, on the other hand, took an otherworldly approach with pointed and precise scallops â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an embodiment of her galactic-inspired collection.

Viktor & Rolf

Left: Gigi Hadid at Chanel | Right: Vittoria Ceretti at Chanel

MEMOIRS FROM AUBAZINE “What I immediately liked was that the cloister garden was uncultivated. It was really sunny. The place made me think of the summer, a breeze fragranced with flowers,” Chanel’s creative director Virginie Viard tells us. The designer recalls her visit to Gabrielle Chanel’s childhood home, an orphanage in the ancient Cistercian abbey of Aubazine, in Correze. “I wanted floral embroideries like an herbarium, delicate folders. What interested me in this décor was the paradox between the sophistication of Haute Couture and the simplicity of this place.” And so, Viard proceeded in littering gowns and suits with the softness of blooms and the majesty of sequins and beads. In punchier looks, zestytoned florals in yellow and orange interlaced with blue and purple flourished across princess dresses, while pared-back pieces celebrated the earthy hues of brown and cream. The starting point, however, were the handsome-yet-austere schoolgirl-style outfits. Gigi Hadid’s monastic black dress with pale collar and cuffs was possibly the piece most closely resembling a young Chanel’s daytime uniform, while Vittoria Ceretti showcased a timeless tweed in classic black and white.

In other moments, the fragility of floral lace was juxtaposed by the thickness of wool and similarly, sheer skirts were met with structured and sequined embellished tops. This paradox forms the very basis of Chanel’s vocabulary: a paradox between the rigour of the suit and refinement of the tweeds, between the handsomeness of structure and the femininity of florals, between black and white. “I also liked the idea of the boarder, of the schoolgirl, the outfits worn by children long ago,” says Viard. And where looks metamorphosed far beyond the realms of uniform – dresses and bodices entirely enveloped by metallichued beads as examples – references of the child boarders prevailed: high necklines were threaded throughout the collection – albeit in delicate lace; structured shoulders formed the foundations of tweed two-pieces; frothy and floral gowns were underscored by controlled pleats; and Peter Pan collars accented tops. The orphanage in Aubazine – a timeless place hidden from the world – influenced Gabrielle Chanel’s designs for the duration of her life, and now its rigour and purity also finds its way in to Viard’s masterpieces. “It’s a very touching place, very inspiring. I felt good there,” concludes Viard.

Chanel photographed by Tim Elkaim

DESIGNER INTERVIEW

RAY OF LIGHT At Bazza Alzouman, a considered approach to colour and composition creates enviably frothy pieces that are as functional as they are fabulous

Photography by Mila Namida Styling by Samineh Safavi Words by Kelly Baldwin

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’d never really used tulle before,” says Kuwait-based fashion designer Bazza Alzouman. “In the past, most of my collections had been about luxurious fabrics, sleek cuts and clean silhouettes.” It’s late March in Dubai, and we’re approaching an almost deserted beach, watching as photographer Mila Namida captures one striking shot after the next of Alzouman’s spring/ summer 20 collection. A dusky grey gown – or depending on the light, blush – moves perfectly to the rhythm of model Sabrina Mello’s steps, seamlessly swishing from side to side while cascades of pleated tulle dance with the dipping afternoon light. “I wanted to explore the Bazza Alzouman aesthetic but with a different medium,” she says. “I was really in love with this grey tulle and so I wanted to ensure that we didn’t change its transparency by using the wrong lining. At times I also like to add a little edge if I feel a piece is overtly feminine, so here we used more of a sporty neckline to balance out the fullness and formality of the gown.” This was just days before the Covid-19 pandemic accelerated, and the region found itself in lockdown. As a result, the collection patiently waits for the world to once again indulge in occasionwear. We touch base for a second time in mid April, and Alzouman longs to return to her atelier. “I now appreciate what I do more than ever. I’m reminded how much I really love my work, and how passionate I am about it – I can’t wait to get back into my studio,” she says. The brand works out of Kuwait where, during normal months, Alzouman sources her fabrics locally and develops all samples in-house. “I think the conversation in the fashion industry has really changed – there’s so much talk about consumerism and fast fashion. It’s important to be aware of the shifts happening, but also to have your own vision and ethical codes.” Since the brand’s conception in 2014, Alzouman has pushed

Models Sabrina Mello and Donya Shahidi wear pieces from the Bazza Alzouman spring/summer 20 collection

Since the brand’s conception in 2014, Alzouman has pushed ahead of the curve by focusing on controlled designs that transcend seasons. “Many of my clients wear the gowns year after year. Especially considering that I work in occasionwear which is not something that is worn often – it’s important that the piece can be reused,” says the designer

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“I think the conversation in the fashion industry has really changed. It’s important to be aware of the shifts happening, but also to have your own vision and ethical codes.” Bazza Alzouman

ahead of the curve by focusing on controlled designs that transcend seasons. “Many of my clients wear their gowns year after year. Especially considering that I work in occasionwear, which is not something that is worn often – it’s important that the piece can be reused,” she states of the women who return to her time and again – including Maya Diab, Mai Omar and Huda Kuttan, who have all worn her designs on the red carpet. “Sometimes exciting fashion is confined to couture, and the more practical side to ready-to-wear. I believe in making the latter as dreamy as couture, but not at the expense of practicality,” she explains. Alzouman spent her childhood in South Carolina, moving to New York as a young adult, where she attended Parsons New York and worked under designer Naeem Khan, before eventually settling in Kuwait. Consequently, her codes draw inspiration from a plethora of experiences and techniques. She believes that South Carolina is reflected in the brand’s femininity, while New York is felt through a measured use of both colour and silhouette. Kuwait, on the other hand, is honoured via a “statement-making” quality achieved by constant reinvention of either volume or texture – “they’re fairly bold in and of themselves,” she says of the gowns. Even with a prior (self-confessed) tendency to lean on the more lavish of fabrics and sleeker cuts, Alzouman separated herself early on from the embellished-fuelled landscape often associated with the Middle East’s

eveningwear designers. Her sobering use of colour is commendable – for summer, the palette flows from blush grey to black with a tiny injection of marigold yellow and amethyst, with previous collections also anchored in just three or four hues. Back to reality though. And it’s one in which the global pandemic severely threatens the future of boutique brands like Bazza Alzouman. “Right now, I’m observing and thinking. I may look into my product styles if social distancing continues to be the norm, as we will not have the same sort of need for occasionwear in the immediate future,” she notes. We can already imagine it: light and luscious summer dresses, where tulle and silk are cropped to the knee and Alzouman’s statement silhouettes exist as sumptuous daywear. “I learned how wonderful it is to really connect with being a mother at home. I launched my brand the same year that I got pregnant with my eldest daughter, so I’ve always had to balance work and motherhood,” she reveals of her personal experience amid lockdown. “I’m really thankful for this opportunity to spend time with my two girls. I meditate and try to work out, and keep in touch with friends and family. I’m feeling blessed and enjoying my time.” And of the significance of fashion during such turbulent times? “I still think it’s important for people to be able to enjoy beautiful things from time to time,” muses Bazza. “Even if they are not essential to our survival.”

Models: Sabrina Mello and Donya Shahidi | Hair and make-up by Diana Tin

MOJEH FASHION

THRILLS AND FRILLS

Toasting a decade in business, acclaimed couture house, Ralph & Russo, highlight the emotional foundations of their 10th anniversay collection, celebrated in fashion’s most unforgettable year Words by Lucy Wildman

Photography: courtesy of Ralph & Russo

pring 2020 is a particularly significant season collection, Ralph & Russo have become the contemporary for London-based, Australian-born couturiers, haute couture label of choice, worn by some of the world’s Ralph & Russo. Marking their 10th anniversary most admired and stylish women. From award-winning with an homage to a decade of design, Tamara Ralph actresses, models and rock stars to first ladies, politicians and partner, Michael Russo, took inspiration from their and royalty, the house’s take on what couture means to couture archive, creating ten special looks featuring the woman of today has seen their success snowball at an classic house elements of previous collections, beautifully exponential rate – with Ralph & Russo the only Londonreinterpreted for what has turned out to be a landmark year. based couture label to be recognised by the Fédération de “Compared to previous seasons, designing this collection la Haute Couture et de la Mode in almost a century. was a deeply nostalgic process,” reveals Tamara of the “I think it’s important as a designer to have a muse, because SS20 couture line. “We went back through the Ralph & having a set of qualities that you consistently channel Russo archive and pulled out many years of sketches to ensures that there is a natural consistency in terms of spirit rediscover the elements we wanted to take forward and of every piece you create,” says Tamara, who was born reimagine for the season. It was into a family of four generations of actually something I’d wanted to couturiers, and has been designing Fashion, and couture in do for some time, but as you can “ever since she can remember.” particular, has always “The Ralph & Russo muse is a imagine, the sheer volume of woman who celebrates her own sketches we’ve produced in the been a form of escapism, femininity, enjoys elegance and last decade was pretty extensive,” and has given us the is confident and empowered. she laughs. With signature ability to dream...it’s draping, silk crêpe tailleurs, She’s a leader in her field, and we an eternal source of structured florals, hand-painted want each piece to exemplify those organza trains and oversized qualities,” says Tamara. “When optimism and positivity bows coupled with newfound you’re designing for a client, you Tamara Ralph elements created in both sugary balance the qualities intrinsic to pastels and vibrant bolts of colour, the house with those qualities that the in-collection couture capsule is a nod to the history make the client unique – taking inspiration from their own of the brand, whilst embracing contemporary design individual style and character.” concepts. “Every single piece from this collection is With the celebration of femininity and savoir faire a particularly meaningful to me, given the fact that it’s foundatiom to the Ralph & Russo ethos, as the brand has inspiration came from our archive,” explains Tamara. grown, naturally their aesthetic has evolved. “Our first “Every look has a story behind it – be it the technique couture collection in 2014 was inherently feminine and used, a particular embellishment featured which went on elegant – it was in fact the oversized bows in gazar and to become signature to the brand, or the person that chose taffeta that inspired the pieces prominent in this season’s to wear it on the red carpet, or any other iconic moment.” retrospetive looks,” reveals Tamara, adding “It was the In that same decade celebrated in this anniversary perfect foundation from which to work, but as we’ve

The finale of the SS20 show made for a dazzling glimpse into the past, present and future of Ralph & Russo

Tamara and Michael in their London atelier

grown, we wanted to experiment more with our designs and materialization, and ultimately take the definition of femininity to a contemporary level.” Indeed, the evolution of the house lies in the expansion of the styles and silhouettes founded within the label’s wildly-successful couture offering. “Couture was once largely limited to eveningwear – which of course is still integral to the brand – but we’ve grown beyond this to include and become known for more daywear pieces, specifically tailoring,” says Tamara’s partner in both life and business, Michael. “This was in response not only to the industry changing, but also to adapt to consumer demand. Our clients wanted to be able to come to us for a full couture wardrobe, not just for eveningwear. We launched our business as a brand that opened up the world of couture to a new audience, but also one that listened to our clients, and was personal in it’s response.” With their couture business offering a “level of customer approach that was welcoming and personal as well as exceptional,” Tamara and Michael wanted to continue a couture experience into a more easily-accessible line. “We launched our ready-to-wear category, which

Ten looks from the collection were influenced by a decade of iconic house signatures, including voluminous rosettes

Moodboards and sketches of the SS20 couture collection

specifically included a lot more daywear items,” explains Michael. “But most importantly, it meant clients could buy from us instantly, rather than waiting the three to six month lead time frequently required for the completion of couture pieces.” Seen on as many international red carpets as it has been admired behind closed doors at the world’s most exclusive parties since it’s Paris debut, the SS20 couture collection boasts an array of looks impossible not to daydream over. From shimmering sequined trouser suits and feather-light chiffon blouses to dramatic, hand-painted ballgowns and elaborately embroidered sheath dresses, each exquisite piece is a labour of love, created by countless pairs of hands. “Our couture pieces feature some pretty complicated techniques,” says Michael. “You’ll see a lot of draping, hand-applied crystals and hand-painting amongst other disciplines, which require hundreds, if not thousands, of hours of work, as well as incredible focus and attention to detail.” Look 47 in particular, a vast, ocean blue strapless gown created entirely from hand-made silk blooms, is a dazzling example of that intricate workmanship created by the house. “We wanted the floral arrangement on this look to appear very organic and for the flowers to look as real as possible,” explains Tamara. “Ahead of even attempting this design in fabric, our team will always mock-up a digital

artwork of the design and determine how best to lay out the motifs for optimal effect. To create the rosettes themselves, we used up to five different sized petals, some of which are then pleated and edged, before being manipulated to form three-dimensional petals.” Each of those petals is then placed onto the fabric panels of the gown, and stitched in interlocking patterns. Once all panels are covered, the look is seamlessly stitched together, with motifs overlaid over all of the seams to ensure that none of them are visible. “In other words – it truly takes a village!” Tamara laughs. While May would ordinarily be a month when couturiers are rushing to complete their autumn/winter collections for the following season, the Covid-19 crisis and the subsequent cancellation of couture week shows has enforced a dramatic change on the entire fashion industry. “All brands and designers are being faced with unique challenges at the moment, but these challenges have pushed us to innovate,” says Michael. “This push to re-evaluate how we operate has forced many of us to admit that our current processes just don’t work anymore, and important changes need to be made. We’re now reconsidering some of our business practices, and evolving our overall approach. But it’s been amazing to witness just how agile and adaptable we are as an industry. We are evolving, fast and furiously, and this is only the beginning.” As a brand for whom philanthropy is a key focus - the SS20 couture show opened with the announcement they would be supporting the Australian Red Cross Disaster Relief and Recovery Fund following the devastating bushfires in their homeland last year – the house intends to incorporate charitable initiatives into more of it’s projects. “Philanthropy is incredibly important to us – you do what you can, when you can and support those causes which are globally important or personally meaningful to you,” says Michael.” “This incredibly difficult time has seen the industry come together more than ever, supporting one another and even sharing resources,” adds Tamara. “It’s wonderful to see so many brands jumping in to support the healthcare system and it’s critical workers in particular – something we’re working towards. We want to support our local community, the industry and beyond.” While concentrating on how to adapt their business in light of the crisis, Ralph & Russo continue designing their next collection. “Absolutely everything is changing, and will only continue to do so, which is largely for the better,” says Tamara. “But fashion, and couture in particular, has always been a form of escapism, and has given us the ability to dream. As much as it’s important to stay abreast of what’s happening in the world, and to do our part to create a better world in the future, we also need something to enchant us; something to take our mind off of the current state of the world, even if just for a moment. Fashion will continuously evolve, and will always be incredibly important – it’s an eternal source of optimism and positivity.”

Look 47 from the SS20 couture collection took months to complete

Couturier Tamara works on one of the most intricate SS20 gowns

STATE OF PLAY Playing dress-up takes on an entirely new meaning this month. Keep your inner extrovert alive with jubilant silhouettes, exaggerated hues and fanciful adornment Photography by Vivienne & Tamas Styling by Davor Jelusic

Dress and earrings, TORY BURCH | Shoes, ALINA SCHUERFELD

Dress, GIVENCHY | Hat and veil, SPATZ HUTDESIGN

Dress, VALENTINO | Earrings, SITA

Dress and hat, PRADA

Dress and earrings, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

This page: Coat, DICE KAYEK | Shirt, VALENTINO Opposite page: Dress, GIVENCHY | Shoes, MICHAEL KORS | Hat and veil, SPATZ HUTDESIGN

This page: Shirt, ELISABETTA FRANCHI | Feather dress, VALENTINO Opposite page: Suit, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER | Sunglasses, KUBORAUM

Dress and earrings, LEILOU | Bag, FRAU FRIEDA

Blazer and trousers, DANNY REINKE | Earrings and belt, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Model: Smilia at Izaio Management | Hair and Make-up: Helena Narra at Liganord | Location: With thanks to Schlosshotel Berlin by Patrick Hellmann

Production by Louis Fourteen and MOJEH Productions

DARE TO DREAM AGAIN From the boundless beauty of a Georges Hobeika gown unfurling across the Parisian skyline to the precision and grace of a Rami Al Ali masterpiece laden in gold, there’s nothing quite like getting lost in a land of fantastical Haute Couture. Here, MOJEH celebrates a decade of dynamic design and dares you to dream again – if only for a haute minute

Black crepe dress with gold Swarovski crystal necklace, ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER | Stilettos, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FOR ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

Style Soliloquy featuring AW12 Haute Couture, photographed by Riccardo Vimercati for MOJEH 10 MOJEHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first foray in to the highest accolade of fashion focused on modern looks that left traditional notions of princess gowns and fairytale moments wailing in the wind. Think suits instead of dresses, svelte cuts and much, much shorter silhouettes.

Red and pink ruffled muslin and organza fauvist print dress, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is about cherishing life and the love of used objects. This nude lace cocktail dress was inspired by the craquelure of wallpaper. Love is in the details of the degrade in the different layers of lace.â&#x20AC;? Jan Taminiau

Metallic lace dress, Jantaminiau

Season Of Grandeur featuring AW12 Haute Couture, photographed by Federico De Angelis for MOJEH 11 It was the season that Raf Simons and Riccardo Tisci still ruled the runways, (the former at Christian Dior, the latter at Givenchy). Expect ostentation and experimentation against a backdrop of gloriously feminine prints.

Red and emerald poppy print dress, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Ring in yellow gold with pearl and diamonds and earrings in gold with diamonds, emeralds and pearls, BUCCELLATI

Navy blue embroidered gown with black wool cigarette pants, DIOR

Long dress in gold muslin with sleeves and bodice in galuchat patchwork, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Black silk crepe halter dress with attached cape embroidered in bronze metal, patent and matte leather paillettes and wide mask with transparent beige lens, GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI

“I am always exploring the depths of nature – it’s the base of my inspiration. The philosophy between nature and the natural, the contradictions between raw and refined and masculine and feminine.” Jan Taminiau

Red tulle mermaid dress, JANTAMINIAU | Plume de Paon necklace in white gold with diamonds and emeralds, BOUCHERON

Opposite page: White coat dress in lace and satin and shoes, WORTH | Vendome necklace and earrings in platinum with diamonds, violet spinels and cultured pearls, CHAUMET

After Show featuring SS13 Haute Couture, photographed by Stefania Paparelli for MOJEH 12+1 Juxtapositions between the pared-back beauty of heritage French houses and the gloriously high-octane nature of Middle Eastern couturiers unfurled across Haute Couture week as regional names such as Rami Al Ali and Georges Hobeika continued to gain momentum.

Embroidered headpiece, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA | Bouquet dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ailes brooch in white gold set with rock crystals and diamonds, BOUCHERON

Left: Red knee-length embroidered dress with leather belt and shoes, ELIE SAAB Right: White lace dress with leather belt and shoes, ELIE SAAB

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The theme for our Spring Summer 2013 collection was Art Deco. This fabric was developed exclusively for us by the Swiss-based textile firm Jakob Schlaepfer. I wanted to modernize the famous geometric shapes created in the Art Deco era, and make it more relevant to the now. Also, it was the first time that I added a special plexiglass as a brooch on the waist. I combined both elements with the delicate soft fluid draped chiffon.â&#x20AC;? Rami Al Ali

Grey chiffon gown with gold foiling and sandals, RAMI AL ALI | White gold Vulcania necklace with brown and fancy diamonds, DAMIANI

Silk crepe and organza dress, embroidered with Swarovski crystals, GEORGES HOBEIKA

Organza dress embroidered with crystals and topaz, VALENTINO | White gold Vulcania necklace with brown and fancy diamonds and Mimosa watch, DAMIANI

Joie de Vivre featuring SS14 Haute Couture, photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth for MOJEH 19 For MOJEH’s third anniversary issue, the prominent female photographer Ellen Von Unwerth introduced her satirical style to the title’s body of work. Stephane Roland, Valentino, Giambattista Valli and more joined the celebration.

Dress, VALENTINO | Headdress, MURMURE by SPIRIT | Tights, FALKE | Shoes, RENE CAOVILLA | Earrings, HELENE ZUBELDIA

“This collection was inspired by gems and femininity; so lace was an evidence in the looks. Originally this corseted catsuit was worn underneath a long emerald shirt dress. It’s similar to a piece of lingerie designed in Lyon lace which is all embroidered with a little cord to have a 3D effect – it’s like a second skin of lace. The silhouette is a mix of a pin-up from Vargas drawings and a matador Goya spirit too. This image is beautiful and expresses the elegance of the kind of women I loved to work with in my early collections.” Alexis Mabille

Caught In A Dream featuring AW14 Haute Couture, photographed by Amber Gray for MOJEH 23 2014 nodded towards an undone, dark glamour that saw collections anchored in silver, grey and black. The likes of Versace, Chanel and Alexis Mabille showcased timeless pieces that straddled both sensual and surly.

Jumpsuit, ALEXIS MABILLE

Dress, boots and ring, ATELIER VERSACE

Dress and shorts, CHANEL

Gilded Gardenia featuring Chanel SS15 Haute Couture, photographed by Anthony Arquier for MOJEH 25 Dishevelled tweeds crumbling into disarray, artificial florals in heady hues and disproportioned suits that played on traditional notions of shape and silhouette. The late Karl Lagerfeldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Summer 2015 outing was a spectacularly futuristic world where even nature was turned upside down.

Chiffon sleeveless top with pleated and stitched ruffles, adorned with jewelled buttons, long chiffon skirt overlaid with a short skirt in pleated and stitched ruffles, adorned with jewelled buttons and tulle mittens embroidered with silk organza poppies embroidered with sequins and beads, CHANEL

Pleated chiffon sleeveless dress with patent leather straps and embroidered with flowers in tulle and organza, rhodoids and pearls, CHANEL

Parade earrings, CHANEL FINE JEWELLERY

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Refinery Reimagined featuring SS17 Haute Couture, photographed by Fedor Bitkov for MOJEH 47 Bravery

imploded

across

collections

unexpected colours and embellishment emerged. Think pumpkin orange at Giorgio Armani’s Prive, parakeet green at Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior and an all-encompassing acid wash at Alexis Mabille.

Top and jacket, GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ

Haute Odyssey featuring AW17 Haute Couture, photographed by Anthony Arquier for MOJEH 52 “This design stands for vertical ruffles in a chaotic structure. By using a Japanese organza, the shapes hold the massive outburst of ruffles in an orderly fashion. I think this picture is still beautiful – it has a very timeless feeling and I love the styling and composition of this image. You can’t see it, but all the vertical ruffles are only on the front, it has a very classic back. We hand-stitched about 160 metres of the Japanese polyester organza and then we used a fabric which I found from old stock. I love to use old stock that other big houses don’t use anymore – I think it’s a shame to not reuse it.” Xuan-Thu Nguyen

Dress, XUAN | Shoes, HYUN MI NIELSON

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Creatures of Nature featuring SS18 Haute Couture, photographed by Chantelle Dosser for MOJEH 57 Operatic shapes, hues and materials were met with handsome and wearable designs: welcome to the season where Pierpaolo Piccioli â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just a few collections in to his reign at Valentino â&#x20AC;&#x201C; turned Haute Couture on its head. Here, photographer Chantelle Dosser journeyed through the collections with the same rebellious sentiment as Piccioli.

VALENTINO

“For our Spring Summer 2018 couture collection, I drew inspiration from the East. Having travelled there many times myself, I always find it to be an amazing sensory experience – taking in the vivid colours, the breathtaking landscapes, intricate interiors and the unique features of sacred eastern architecture – there’s truly nowhere like it. I wanted to celebrate all aspects of this stunning part of the world with this collection, and this bold, green double duchess ballgrown perfectly embodies its beauty.” Tamara Ralph, Ralph & Russo

Left: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER | Right: RALPH & RUSSO

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“I wanted to create something that could look like a pink cloud – as if it was coming from a dream. The pleated tulle fabric gave that feeling. The collection was called Girl In The Painting, representing a dreamy picture as if it was a painting.” Mohammed Ashi

This page: ASHI STUDIO | Opposite page: CHRISTIAN DIOR

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Haute Desire featuring SS18 Haute Couture, photographed by Rui Faria for MOJEH 57 Dress, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

Clowning Glory featuring Dior SS19 Haute Couture, photographed by Jenny Brough for MOJEH 65 For the first time, Dior brought its Haute Couture collection to the Middle East. â&#x20AC;&#x153;When the opportunity arose to present the Haute Couture collection in Dubai, it seemed like a great opportunity to me... I could reconsider the work and have fifteen new silhouettes made by the Dior ateliers,â&#x20AC;? said designer Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2019. Tailoring stood strong against feminine gowns and layers of frothy tulle, while the colour palette was all at once monochromatic and full of glitter and rainbows.

Sequinned dress and cap, DIOR

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2 Photographed by Stefania Paparelli, MOJEH 12+1

Jewellery edit: Kelly Baldwin

THE EID EDIT

VHERNIER

7 10

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Effortlessly capturing the spirit of the women of New York City, Tiffanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bold wrap bracelet is a modern interpretation of an archival design from 1971. Crafted from 18 carat gold, and as nonchalently cool as it is classic, make it your statement piece this summer. Bracelet, TIFFANY & CO

Photography: Arjay Navarro; Styling: Stuart Robertson

THE MASTERPIECES

“A ball gown must be the one of your dreams, and must also make you a dream-like creature,” said Christian Dior – and the house’s Grand Bal collection is reminiscent of the swirling of a ball gown, in time with the “Dior Inversé” caliber and its functional oscillating weight on the front of the dial. Just like the structured satin, faille and taffeta fabrics that grace the sumptuous party dresses in Dior’s couture workshops, the Dior Grand Bal collection boasts golden threads, mesh, silk, feathers and stones, as well as beetle wings. With a matte powder pink alligator strap, set with diamonds and decorated with a mother-of-pearl ring, white feathers and set with tsavorite garnets and sapphires, the kaleidoscope of colours evoke the magical society balls so dear to Monsieur Dior, inviting the wearer to glide onto the dance floor. Watch, DIOR

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BEAUTY EDIT Photographed by Chantelle Dosser, MOJEH 66

THE BEAUTY BOOSTER Anxious, weary and always on autopilot? These five at-home health and beauty hacks will put the you back in to your routine

Skin rethink your body care For many women, a quick all-over moisturizer is considered ample care for the body, and often left as the last step in an already rushed regime. Think again. TRY: Begin with a full-body exfoliator such as Jo Malone’s Vitamin E Body Treatment Scrub, which sloughs away at dry surfaces removing dead skin and unwanted toxins. To really amp up efforts, invest in The Body Brush from Dr. Barbara Sturm. Alongside lymph flow in the tissue, thus enabling the removal of waste. But don’t stop there. Ancient Egyptians were said to have soaked in baths full of a decadent mixture of milk, honey and essential oils for radiant and supple skin, (milk is rich in lactic acid, sulphur, calcium and amino acids). If a cup of milk isn’t your vibe, then Elemis Nourishing Milk Bath is a luxurious alternative.

Compiled by Kelly Baldwin

exfoliating, the brush promotes blood circulation and

Hair take a holiday “In most cases, WFH and the summer months mean that you do not need to make your hair endure an endless blow-drying/styling regime that relies on the use of hairdamaging hot tools – let your hair relish in this break so it can regain optimum health,” suggests Pastels Salon senior stylist, Stuart Hastings. “Stopping the use of hot hair tools, means that your hair will not be stripped of Left to Right: Pink Diamond Cleansing Balm, RODIAL | In Two Minds Facial Cleanser, AESOP | Silky Soft Cleansing Oil, RITUALS | Matte Dew Hydration Sorbet, DIOR

as much moisture, which in turn will leave it shiny and a lot less frizzy.” TRY: Alongside a styling truce, add in a few weekly treatments to promote optimum hair health. Kerastase’s

Face do the double cleanse “I recommend this, especially in the evenings,” says skincare expert Rebecca Treston. “By doing this two-step regime, you are removing the dirt and grime from the skin first, before using another cleanser that should have the active ingredients needed to target the individual concerns. Most importantly, the products used should be dependent on your skin type and condition. For instance, those who wear lots of makeup should be using an emulsifying cleanser first, as this will break down any makeup and the oil. The second cleanser should be specific to skin type – for instance, those with acne can use a cleanser that contains salicylic acid, while those who have dry or ageing skin should use a cleanser that has AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid).” MOJEH RECOMMENDS: Night-time is best for stronger cleansers such as Rodial’s Pink Diamond Cleansing Balm, while mornings are better for something gentle and refreshing like Rituals Silky Soft Oil. If you’re still working from home, ditch products that have strong actives such as AHA or Salicylic Acid – they’re unnecessary unless your skin has been exposed to the elements throughout the day.

Body plank for five minutes a day “The core muscles are force transducers – they transfer force from the upper body to the lower body and

Masque Intense is a brilliant way to infuse the hair with moisture (available via the Pastels e-store). Or, for natural product lovers, coconut milk contains all the essential nutrients required for healthy hair, boosting your hair follicles and promoting hair growth (apply it on your locks and massage for three to five minutes before shampooing).

Mind stay calm Meditation expert Sasha Ghodstinat on mastering your daily practice CONSISTENCY Meditation should be approached in the same way as brushing the teeth – we clean our mouths and our bodies, we need to clear our minds too. GRATITUDE Begin with a note of gratitude, something to feel thankful for. FORM Make sure the spine is straight whether sitting up or laying down. All muscles should be relaxed. BREATH All awareness and attention should fall to the breath – focus on how it moves in and out of the body. If your mind wanders, acknowledge the thought and then bring your awareness back. AFFIRMATION End your practice with a goal for the day – big or small. DANCE Complete your practice by dancing to a feel good song. It will encourage the flow of endorphins. Tune in to Sasha’s live practices at @heelsandfeels

vice versa so they’re working all the time,” explains Heba Abdel Gawad, founder of .Body//Hack: Fitness Education. “If we work on these muscles consciously through training and exercise, they should be working more efficiently autonomically when we’re not thinking of them in our day to day life.” Activation of the abs is especially important during times of limited activity and elongated periods of staying still. HOW TO: “Make sure you’re not holding your breath and that your hips are not too low as that can strain your lower back. Your neck should also be aligned and not hanging down,” says Heba.

Left to Right: Deep Sleep Pillow Spray, THIS WORKS at Net-A-Porter | Stress Treatment, TATA HARPER | Ambre Nuit candle, DIOR | Bath Salts, SENTEURS, D’ORIENT

RONALD VAN DER KEMP

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BEAUTY IN FOCUS

1. Scattered Light Glitter Eyeshadow in Rapture HOURGLASS | 2. Foundation X Full Coverage Foundation NATASHA DENONA at Sephora | 3. Lipliner in Red LIPSTICK QUEEN | 4. Luxury Palette Colour Coded Eyeshadow in Super Blue CHARLOTTE TILBURY | 5. Matte Lipstick in Eadie Scarlet GUCCI BEAUTY

MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ

SEEING RED Blended from lashline right into the brow, red eyes were seen across the catwalks – with Ronald van der Kemp’s blue and red striped lids making even greater impact when offset with a matte scarlet lip.

Photography: Gorunway.com

VALENTINO

1. Pastel Obsessions Palette in Lilac HUDA BEAUTY | 2. Enamoured Hi-Shine Lip Lacquer in Moonglow MARC JACOBS BEAUTY | 3. Faux Cils Mascara in Black CHANTECAILLE | 4. Ambient Lighting Blush in Radiant Magenta HOURGLASS| 5. Le Rouge in Sparkling Peony GIVENCHY BEAUTY

RALPH & RUSSO

PINK AND PRETTY

From Valentino’s mauve eyes blended into sculpted bubblegum cheekbones to Ralph & Russo’s powder pink lids, purple and pink make for sugary sweet beauty - add a giant bow for extra girlieness.

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MOJEH HEALTH

THE ART OF

SELFLESS SELFISHNESS

“You can’t give love and positivity to anyone until you’re overflowing with it yourself,” says Doctor Habib Sadeghi, founder of Be Hive of Healing. The LA-based celebrity Doctor argues that putting yourself first is the only way to navigate through uneasy times

s I was driving to work recently, I heard a woman on a radio talk show sharing how frustrated she’d become because of the recent Covid-19 restrictions. She was furloughed from her job and her husband was now trying to work from home, while their children had the run of the house all day because schools were still closed. At her wits’ end, she said that she and her spouse were fighting with each other and even yelling at their children, which was very unusual for them. I knew that this would happen. As people’s home time increased and their personal space decreased alongside it, they’d begin bumping into each other more, getting underfoot and on each other’s nerves. Trapped at home together, tempers would flare, and relationships would suffer. Adding to this claustrophobic angst is the loss of daily routines. I’ve talked to some people who don’t even know what day it is because their regular work schedule provided an essential structure to their lives.

Photographed by Arkan Zakharov, MOJEH 69

LIVING WITH PURPOSE More and more, people are either anxious with cabin fever or unmotivated and depressed. Research shows that in order for people to be happy, they must feel that they’re contributing to life in a way that’s greater than themselves. This is why a life of idle amusement can only last so long before disillusionment sets in. It’s the reason why golf and vacation cruises eventually lose their appeal for retirees who go back to working small jobs or volunteering. Similarly, a longevity study from National Geographic found people who have a clear sense of purpose an articulate it live on average seven years longer than those who don’t. Work gives us drive, a reason to get up in the morning, and a way of contributing to the world. It fulfills every person’s basic requirement to be needed in some way. Depression is more common amongst the unemployed at any given time, so it’s not surprising that more people would experience these feelings right now as they become idle, having lost that sense of independence and purpose.

MITIGATING THE MADNESS The chronic stress that comes from family drama, unemployment and home confinement as the Covid-19 restrictions continue is a real health concern, particularly because chronic stress suppresses immune function and makes us more susceptible to everything from colds to cancer. Therefore, it’s essential that we learn how to mitigate this stress through what I call selfless selfishness: putting aside time specifically for yourself to fulfill your emotional needs. How can being selfish be a selfless act? It’s because you can’t give love and positivity to anyone until you’re overflowing with it yourself. You can’t give what you don’t have, and you can only make the people around you feel as good as you’re feeling in any moment. So when you’ve taken time to reinforce your sense of purpose and joy, you carry that positive energy into all your relationships and become a better wife, mother, daughter, volunteer, co-worker, boss, or whatever roles you fill in life. This is why taking time for yourself is one of the greatest gifts you could ever give to those you love. PUTTING IT INTO PRACTICE Covid-19 makes selfless selfishness a little more challenging, but certainly not impossible. Consider reserving half an hour for yourself every day and using it to do anything that you love and where you won’t be disturbed. Maybe you’d enjoy an at-home yoga routine followed by a warm bath with some of your favorite music. If you’re not totally homebound during this time, consider going for a walk or a bike ride to a favorite location near your home. Nature has a powerful calming effect – as soon as you can get back to the beach, do. Engage your creativity and need to feel useful by starting a small home improvement project: painting some furniture; planting flowers; or starting a garden. Home improvement stores and websites are still able to deliver, and YouTube is teeming with instructional videos for arts and crafts activity that you’ve previously never had the time for.

Even after Covid-19 it will be just as important to your emotional and physical health, as well as your relationships, to maintain a regular practice of selfless selfishness – so use these unprecedented circumstances as a push to perfect it. Although it will be tougher scheduling it around work, daily admin, family activities and so forth, you’ll also have more options when it comes to engaging in fulfilling activities. Try to offer time to the practice at least twice a week, ideally on the same days and time so that it becomes part of your routine. Get into a dance or yoga class, join a book club, take piano or singing lessons, take a creative writing workshop, or start working out. It doesn’t matter what you do, as long as it’s something you enjoy where the focus is solely on you outside of your role as a wife, colleague, mother, or something else. This is why I don’t necessarily advocate volunteering for selfless selfishness because as noble as it is, women give constantly to others, and this time is all about giving back to yourself so you can be more generous with your love later on. HEALTH ALL AROUND When it comes to health, the mind and body are inextricably linked. Our state of mind and emotions have an immediate and profound biochemical effect on our bodies moment to moment. This is why I actually prescribe selfless selfishness to all of my patients with chronic disease. When the mind is at peace and the heart full of joy, the body can respond to treatment in new ways. By practicing selfless selfishness in your own life, you’ll be creating a healthier life altogether because not only will you be healthier, your relationships will be too. Dr. Sadeghi specializes in spiritual psychology, is the co-founder of non-profit Love Button Global Movement, a published author and contributor to Goop and The Huffington Post. Visit beingclarity.com and sign up to Dr. Sadeghi’s monthly newsletter or find his annual health and well-being journal, MegaZEN. Instagram: @drhabibsadehghi

WAYS TO PRACTICE SELFISH SELFLESSNESS AT-HOME THIS MONTH

Surrender to a daily podcast: A recent

Indulge in a lengthier skincare schedule:

study by MENA revealed there to be

Gone are the days of rushed routines, instead,

5.1million podcast listeners in Saudi Arabia

Invest in your space: Find a small corner of

indulge in those luxurious products that you’ve

alone, with women leading the charge.

your home and flip it in to a sanctuary that’s

always dreamed of and take the time to apply,

MOJEH recommends Oprah’s SuperSoul

good enough for daily workouts, reading or

massage and breathe in the glorious aromas.

Conversations, Happier with Gretchen

meditation. It could be as simple as a new rug,

Anything from Circumference, Dr. Barbara

Rubin and anything featuring Dr. Sadehgi.

art piece, lounger or lamp…

Sturm or La Mer will do the trick.

Airpods case, FENDI

Christian Karel Appel artwork, The List

Green Clay Detox Mask, CIRCUMFERENCE

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TRAVEL EDIT

From the breathtaking beauty of a deserted sea-edge in Zanzibar to the boundless blue backdrop of a private island in the Maldives, MOJEH editors journey back in time to the escapes that have inspired them most

Mojeh Izadpanah, Editor In Chief The first time I visited The Maldives was over a decade ago on my honeymoon. The destination was a complete surprise – my husband and family kept it a secret – and I couldn’t have dreamt up the splendour that would ensue as I stepped off the boat and on to Reethi Rah (which means “beautiful island” in Dhivehi). The magnificent beauty and stillness is so encompassing that the moment you set eyes on the island, the stresses and strains of the daily grind quickly drift out to sea. The resort is home to some of the most exceptional, spacious villas in the Indian Ocean – including our beach villa, which sat discreetly along the shoreline where crystal clear water lapped gently, day and night – each separated by sweeping vegetation in varying shades of green. I whiled away the hours moving between lush beachside loungers, oversized futons beneath the thatched-roof terrace, and hammocks swaying between palms. On one particularly memorable day we sailed across to a deserted island, ate freshly-barbequed fish and swam in what felt like an entirely abandoned ocean. It was the stuff of dreams. Journeying back to the main island via a small dhoni at sunset, the image of the Reethi’s floating landmasses – majestic and motionless with its golden sands and lavish, shamrock green palms luminous underneath the sinking sun – remains one of my most memorable travel moments. We visited the island again a few years later when my son was just six months old – it was everything that I remembered it to be, and more – its otherworldly glow only growing all the more intense. What to pack: Long, luscious Missoni maxis in sugary shades by day, and two-piece linen suits in earthy hues at night. Oversized sun hats and shades are obligatory. Time of year: Visit the island between November to April to avoid its notorious monsoon season. oneandonlyresorts.com/reethi-rah

Images supplied

OUT OF THIS WORLD MEMOIRS

THE ONE&ONLY REETHI RAH, THE MALDIVES

The resort is home to some of the most exceptional, spacious villas in the Indian Ocean

120 ANANTARA LAYAN PHUKET RESORT, THAILAND Lucy Wildman, Deputy Editor Imagine, if you will, gazing across your cliffside infinity pool

contemporary Asian luxury; your stay exquisite in every sense,

from your sunlounger down a lush hillside to the white, powdery

and effortlessly executed. Nothing is too much trouble – indeed,

beach below. As your butler brings you a glass of something

troubles are a concept you’ll rarely encounter here, as most melt

long and cool, you mull over taking a leisurely dip, or having a

away the moment you set foot on Layan’s flawless white sandy

relaxing massage under the palm trees of your sprawling private

beach, bewitched by the breathtaking view and all-encompasing

residence, in preparation to watch the perfect pink sunset

feeling of zen. You’ll spend your time wafting around your beautiful

envelop your own personal paradise. Blissfully relaxed, utterly

villa; lazing on a sunlounger or hammock; enjoying sundowners

pampered and unashamedly loving every second of it, life at

amongst the treetops or recounting magical days over candlelit

Anantara Layan Phuket is all about enjoying the natural beauty

dinners on the beach. Prepare to be ruined for life from here on in.

of this stunning island whilst being won over by infinite layers of

What to pack: Tie-dye silk kaftans, white lace maxi dresses,

luxury and a level of personal service reserved most frequently

decadent boho-deluxe jewellery and anything from Miguelina’s

for rock stars and royalty. Two of which I spotted during my stay.

resort collection will capture the global nomad vibe to perfection

Perched – quite literally – on a hill in Phuket’s serene northwest

– Bottega Veneta BV Lido flats are a non-negotiable.

coast and surrounded by National Park forest, Anantara Layan

Time of year: December to April boasts hot, sunny days, perfect

Phuket Resort is one of the region’s most exclusive properties.

blue skies and low humidity making it a great time to visit.

Overlooking the spectacular Layan Bay, the vibe is laid-back,

anantara.com/en/layan-phuket

The ultra-exclusive private residences boast magical views over Layan Bay

XANADU VILLAS & RETREAT, DONGWE, ZANZIBAR Kelly Baldwin, Acting Editor Look inland and wild, gigantic palm trees rise up from verdant grassland and frame gloriously starburst-hued sunrises and sunsets. Face out to sea and crystal-clear water gently laps across marshmallow-soft sand. This is Zanzibar’s eastern coastline – all at once perplexingly beautiful and wildly raw – where life moves at the tender flutter of a butterfly. Hidden amongst the unruly greenery resides Xanadu Villas, an exquisite Arabian-inspired retreat featuring seven uncompromisingly perfect – yet each one unique from the next – villas that overlook the glistening Indian Ocean. Conceived by its owners out of a “desire to breathe”, laidback luxury at Xanadu is like nowhere else. The surprisingly spacious villas feature high ceilings, private pools and the most superb eye for art, (paintings of wild Elephants from Africa’s plains hang across from eclectically-hued works from local artists). Bursts of vivacious colour are found at every turn of the resort, from the perfectly preened flora to the impressive interiors which feature a patchwork of Seventies-style prints. Morning, noon and night exists to the backdrop of African, Arabian and Spanish music gently humming throughout the space, punctuated only by the sounds of local staff who are jovial, unassuming and always on-hand. The rhythms of the day are interrupted by long, lazy walks along the beach, paddle boarding, yoga on request, or by indulging in locally sourced organic products at the Kiota Spa. A relaxed, convivial revelry lingers on, particularly by nightfall, when the retreat is littered with warm lighting and laughter. What to pack: The dress code is boho slips and bikinis for barefoot strolls down to the beach. If it is a bit laissez-faire, nobody cares. Time of year: The island is best enjoyed from June to October where the climate is both cool and dry. zanzibar-retreats.com/property/xanadu-villas

Conceived by its owners out of a “desire to breathe”, laid-back luxury at Xanadu is like nowhere else

122

MOJEH WOMEN

MAKING ANGELS

Model and humanitarian Noëlla Coursaris Musunka tells MOJEH how her dream to build a school for an impoverished village in Democratic Republic of Congo became a reality Words by Rebecca Anne Proctor

he roads are filled with dirt and dust. Passersby walk swiftly and with purpose as they shop amidst densely-compressed outdoor markets and shops. Men and women on motorcycles speed away in packs to their homes, bars, restaurants or recreational centres for a football match, surrounded by the lush landscape of Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). This is the industrial mining city of Lubumbashi, which lies on the southeastern edge of the landlocked DRC. I’ve just been picked up from the city’s airport, and we’re on our way to the small village of Kalebuka where Malaika, an accredited all-girls school with a community centre, FIFAbuilt football field and a network of clean water wells, is situated. The journey ahead of us is long, and as we drive through the congested streets, I watch in awe at the scenes unfolding around me. Verdant, green-capped hills and mines frame Lubumbashi’s city centre with its remnants of Belgium’s colonial architecture. The road gets rougher and bumpier just as the tightly-packed one-level shops get closer and closer together, many perched on the very edge of the basic dirt roads. Chaos reigns as cars honk, people hustle to buy and trade their goods and women cook fresh corn on every corner. Then there’s the churches and places of worship that seemingly occupy every street and alleyway. There’s always a cross to be seen somewhere, signifying a moment of peace and faith, but also a reminder of Congo’s brutal period of colonial rule. The road gets narrower by the minute, and soon, the hustle and bustle and hoards of people are no more. Comforting palm trees surround our car, and miles of greenery stretch out before us. We’ve just about reached Malaika – which means “angle” in Swahili – the school for girls of Kalebuka, founded by Congolese-Cypriot model and humanitarian

Photography: courtesy of Malaika.org; portrait by Greg Adamski

Noëlla brought the first well to Kalebuka – there are now more than 20 providing fresh water to the village

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Pictured with some of her students, Malaika’s founder Noëlla is an Ambassador for The Global Fund to Fight Aids, Tuberculosis and Malaria

Noëlla Coursaris Musunka. Since meeting on one of her many professional trips to the UAE, for months, Noëlla had urged me to come and visit the school and provide pupils with art and writing classes. Over the years, I’d grown to develop a great love for Africa, particularly after visiting so many of its nations and reporting on its wealth of artists, museums, galleries and rising cultural institutions. I truly believe that creativity is crucial to human spiritual and intellectual development – in itself, it is a human need. But without enough water and food, how can this creativity thrive? These are questions that have long haunted me in my work, and here I was in one of the poorest countries in the world, albeit one of the richest in natural resources and burgeoning talent. Finally jumping out of my ride from the airport, I was taken to a long stretch of land with swings, football nets and a playground – and there, I saw them. All the pupils from Malaika, wearing their identical navy blue uniforms, had come to greet me. A young, smiling girl ran towards me with a drawing she had made to welcome me, while her fellow students started singing Hatuna Matata, dancing and chanting with such fervour it brought tears to my eyes. There’s a mural of an angel with outstretched arms on one of the outside walls of the playground. It symbolises Noëlla’s long-held dream to create a school for girls in DRC

where they could have opportunities that didn’t exist when she was growing up in Lubumbashi. It was her own difficult childhood that led her to found the nonprofit Malaika that is providing free schooling to girls in the area. While today she lives in London with her husband and two children, like thousands of children in DRC, Noëlla grew up in poverty. When she was five-years-old her father died and, realising she could not afford to care for her anymore, her mother sent her to Europe to live with her aunt and uncle. “I didn’t see my mother for 13 years,” Noëlla tells me. “When I returned to Lubumbashi, I saw the underprivileged conditions she was living in, and I wanted to do something to give back to the women and girls of DRC.” Officially opened in 2007, Malaika originally started with just three classrooms and one well. “There was no water in the village, so we decided we were going to provide it for them. Now we have more than 20 wells,” she explains. “We also just finished three classrooms at the community centre where we aim to teach more of the youth, parents and adults to come to read, write and study maths.” When Noëlla began the school in 2007, Kalebuka had no electricity, running water or education for its people. Many of the girls attending Malaika are the first in their families to ever go to school. The staff is 100 per cent Congolese, and classes are taught primarily in French.

“

I didn’t see my mother for 13 years. When I came back to Lubumbashi, I wanted to do something to give back to the women and girls of DRC. Noëlla Coursaris Musunka

The school now has 346 girls enrolled for free, an accredited primary and secondary school, a community centre and over 5,000 children, teens and adults that are receiving training in literacy, entrepreneurship, farming and community-building sports initiatives. Today, Malaika has built 20 wells, including the refurbishment of four existing ones – a system that now provides access to clean water for over 30,000 people every year. I teach an art class to girls aged between four and six years old on my second day. I tell them to draw their home, and immediately, they pull out the brightly-coloured markers and crayons that I bought for them. They draw food, their mother and father, sisters and brothers. Sometimes the people they draw are smiling, other times there are frowns. The drawings bring out their reality at home, what they have and what they lack. Their laughter and innocent smiles bring immediate joy to the space. No matter what conditions they come from, Malaika has provided a new world for them where education and creativity foster hopes and dreams. “I want to be a journalist! I want to be a doctor! I want to be a business woman! I want to travel the world! I want to serve my community!” said girls aged 14-16 after a writing class in which I asked them to reveal their hopes and dreams for the future. There were so many with so much determination to be female leaders for their families and communities.

It’s now been just over three months since my trip to Lubumbashi, and in that short time, the world has changed dramatically. Covid-19 has halted the global economy, forced people to practice social distancing and stay inside. It has also resulted in massive anxiety and fear for millions. What will happen to the children at Malaika? It’s certainly difficult to stay inside and not socialise, but these children and their families don’t even have that luxury. Malaika is now closed, like all schools in DRC, and places for public congregation are following direct orders from the government under threat of Covid-19. “It’s going to be even tougher now, because people in Africa live day to day,” says Noëlla. “Most of them live together in one room, so how will they implement social distancing? I have no idea.” Most of the houses the children live in don’t even have water or soap. At school, Malaika’s girls were taught about

The school has 346 pupils, and provides vital education and sports initiatives for 5,000 more children and adults

personal hygiene. “Food prices are also high for these people,” she added. “It’s a very challenging time for Africa and other nations that don’t have access to basic necessities as we do in Europe and the US.” How will these girls and their families protect themselves against Covid-19? Malaika is raising awareness in the Kalebuka community and intends to send food packages to around 60 families a week. “We do need to raise funds and are in the midst of running a campaign for it,” added Noëlla. “We also want to be loyal to our staff, so we are continuing to pay their salary.” Covid-19 will eventually pass in DRC as it will around the world, but everything will change. However, the challenge that DRC faces remains the same. The country’s history has long been marked by disease, misery, violence and political tension — Covid-19 is just another problem to add to an already overflowing pot. Spending a few days at Malaika is life-changing. Noëlla has made angels here on earth. “We want to create a student fund so that the girls can continue studying and doing what they want to do after Malaika,” she added. “But right now, it will be a very, very tough time for everybody.” Signs of hope often come serendipitously and in small packages. Malaika is one of those. There’s a potential here for many schools like Malaika throughout DRC and Africa— schools that give way to hope, to dreams and to new realities.

126

MOJEH CULTURE

LIFE & STYLE Jennifer Black’s Jumeirah home is full of kitsch conversation starters, rare paintings and striking vintage finds Words by Hafsa Lodi Photography by Ausra Osipaviciute

“

Jennifer wears ikat print silk pyjamas from her SS20 collection, topped off with vintage cowboy boots

hat are you staring at?” The question has been painted in hot pink, over an oil painting of a vase of flowers, framed and situated right where the wall meets the ceiling, amid a cluster of other frames in Jennifer Black’s living room. An artist, designer and embroiderer extraordinaire, she repurposed this painting herself, and her unique, DIY touch is spotlighted in each room of her home, where designs from her newly-launched fashion and interiors label, Wear The House, are also on display. “My brand comes from an artist’s point of view, because, as you can see from my home, I love art,” says Black. Nestled in the heart of Jumeirah, Black’s two-storey villa is a treasure trove of coveted paintings, embroidered cushions, statement accessories and one-of-a-kind décor pieces – many of which hold deep sentimentality. “Everything has that vintage element, and is brought back into the contemporary world of fashion and interiors,” she explains. Walls are dressed in patterned wallpaper – some, like the tiled vintage stamp design in her kitchen, have been created by Black herself, while others, like the floral accent panels in the foyer, and the snarling tiger faces adorning the staircase, are Gucci designs. All of these plush-yet-playful possessions are enveloped within walls that feature velveteen curtains and umpteen frames. Kitsch-couture is one way to describe the designer’s décor aesthetic. A round mirror in her living room is bordered by close to 200 pencils, sticking out at different lengths. Nearby, a wooden table is home to an eclectic array of ornaments – from a gold eye-shaped mirror, a set of rose quartz coasters and a trinket dish containing a pair of bejewelled earrings, to a cactus in a snow globe, and a painted porcelain pig. These sit atop stacks of fashion magazines and books, which include the biographies of Frida Kahlo and Vivienne Westwood, a collector’s comic book and a fashion business manual. A rare Romero Britto pop art painting picked up by

“

Everything has that vintage element, and is brought back into the contemporary world of fashion and interiors. Jennifer Black

Black during a trip to Miami is fixed high on one wall and overlooks the colourful curation of small sculptures, baskets, books and baubles, which make the room look more like a boutique gallery than a place of residence. For Black, who specialised in embroidery at London College of Fashion, and print design at Central Saint Martins, putting together different patterns, textures and embellishments is an instinctual practice. In Dubai, she worked with Zayan The Label prior to launching her own brand, and memories from her days with Zayan, including prints she designed and fabrics she embroidered, are displayed in acrylic frames around her home. Before moving to Dubai from the UK seven years ago, Black worked at a print supplier in London. “I once designed a painterly floral collection, and COS bought some of the prints from my range. That was really cool – to just walk into COS stores around the world, and see all these dresses made up in my print,” recalls Black. Fizzing with energy and boundless imagination, Black dresses in ikat-patterned silk pyjamas (meant to be worn both indoors and outdoors) from her SS20 range when we meet. Her experience in print design, she says, along with her passion for all things vintage, set the foundations for where she is now with her brand, Wear the House. “This Ikat print I’m wearing now was inspired by a vintage scarf that, for some reason, ended up in amongst my possessions. Carried through to each of my places in London, then packed away in my parents’ attic, I remember digging it out of a box when I was starting Wear The House and thinking, ‘this is such an awesome print, I should use it,’ and that’s how this came around,” says Black. “I’ve always been obsessed with this pink and red colourway.” Hot pink clearly tops Black’s list of favourite colours – from the wooden bench that sits on the porch, the villa’s inner garden walls and the ground floor powder room to the stately candles set in silver poodle-shaped holders, the vibrant shade is splattered throughout her home. On one gallery wall, it’s the colour of the yarn woven through a white grid, forming the words, “don’t look back,” but spelled backwards – you can only read the phrase when you look into the ornate, gold mirror

128

“

I really do put my heart and soul into everything I create. Jennifer Black

Jennifer’s Wear The House silk pyjamas boast beautiful, eclectic prints and coordinating accessories

A pretty moodboard of Jennifer’s inspirational design themes

propped up against the opposite wall. “I made that myself. When you look at it in the mirror, it reads the right way round. It’s one of my favourite sayings,” smiles Black. A streak of fuchsia also covers each of her eyelids, though the designer reveals this was achieved not with typical eyeshadow, but with a favourite matte Gucci lipstick. Typically reserved for dressing tables, prettily-packaged beauty products and statement jewellery pieces form part of the décor of Black’s home, and can be found in decorative trays and dishes along tabletops in every room. In the hallway, floral Gucci lipstick tubes sits atop a wooden trolley – a piece the designer says is one of her most treasured antique possessions. “This was my great auntie’s cutlery drawer,” Black says. “You would die if you opened it up – it’s a full set of silver cutlery, on bright blue velvet. I obviously have never used it.” Nearby sits another vintage piece – a wooden chair fitted with an embroidered seat – though this one has been upcycled by Black. “I love finding vintage pieces and giving them a modern twist. I brought this back from the UK – it was just a dark brown wood, then I got it stripped back and we painted it,” she explains. “I fell in love with the embroidery - we took it off and re-upholstered it too. Not that anyone is allowed to sit on it – it’s quite delicate.” It’s not easy transporting vintage furniture from overseas, but Black’s love affair with antiques is what motivates her to carefully protect her finds in bubble wrap and cardboard, carrying them by hand when flying back from London to the UAE. “Here, you don’t get a lot of vintage, and that’s what I miss about the UK – there are so many places where you can find these amazing pieces of furniture that they actually don’t make anymore, and you can upcycle them – change the print, the fabric. If I eventually move back to London, that’s something I would just throw myself into doing,” smiles Black. “It’s such an amazing thing to do now, because you don’t need to keep buying new – it’s that whole sustainable thing about giving something that’s already been made a new home rather than going to a contemporary furniture store and buying new pieces.” One of the designer’s trademark upcycling techniques is to use yarn to embroider over oil paintings. A scenic painting

The upstairs gallery boasts an eyepopping display of artworks, with vibrant velvet sofas and a couch made from a bathtub adding to the kitch, girlie feel

in her daughter’s bedroom, for instance, is decorated with the phrase “happily ever after.” The designer makes it a point to inject creativity into the upbringing of her two children, aged 7 and 4. “Today you have iPads, but we didn’t have any of that growing up,” she explains. “We would get more involved with these crafty things, and I used to do those for hours and hours,” she says. Encouraging her kids to undertake their own arts-focused DIY projects, sometimes they surprise her by inspiring new directions for her fashion label. “Randomly, the kids were painting shells outside the other day, and then I started painting shells too, and outlining them in gold,” Black says. Illustrations of these gold-rimmed shells are now pinned to her mood board, which sits on a table near a rack of AW20 samples for Wear the House. “It’s quite funny how little things that they do give me ideas for my business,” she says. It makes sense that Black would raise a future generation of artists, as her own creative techniques were heavily influenced by her elder family members. “My step-mum crocheted these blankets,” she says, gesturing to the multi-coloured throws draped over an arm of the olivegreen sofa in the hallway. Paintings by her grandfather meanwhile, make frequent appearances in her home. “I was really lucky, growing up – my grandparents were super-creative,” she recalls. “My grandmother always embroidered, and my grandpa was an architect and painter – quite a few of the landscapes in the kitchen are his paintings, and one of his paintings is featured

Eclectic ornaments and books are dotted all over Jennifer’s Jumeirah home

on pyjamas in next season’s collection. He painted this beach where we used to go to as kids, and I’ve made a digital pattern out of that painting from 1993.” “I really do put my heart and soul into everything I create,” says Black, whose eclectic and inventive spirit shines through both her fashion and interior designs – from the silk pyjamas inspired by her grandfather’s paintings, to the new, lockdown-inspired posters she made, which encourage social distancing. Against the background of her tiled vintage stamps, bold black text, bordered by a fluorescent pink shadow, reads: “let’s stay home.”

130

FINAL NOTE

As we celebrate Ramadan, and take time to reflect

memories of time spent with friends and family as

on ourselves and the world around us during the

well as boosting feelings of comfort and wellbeing.

holy month, fragrances inspired by the heritage

With benefits to both mind and body that range

and traditions of the Middle East make a beautiful

from calming anxiety and insomnia to increasing

addition to our daily routine. And while this may be the

mental clarity and feelings of peace and harmony,

most unusual of times, the memory-inducing power

fragrances containing classic notes from the region

of scent is a magical way of recounting cherished

like oud, sandalwood, patchouli and cedar make

moments from years gone by, triggering evocative

for an uplifting Eid gift, both to yourself and others.

Photography: Arjay Navarro; Styling: Stuart Robertson

SCENTS OF OCCASION

Abu Dhabi - Ajman - Al Ain – Dubai Fujairah - Sharjah – Ras Al Khaimah patchi.com