MOJEH Magazine - Issue 80

RAISE YOUR

SPIRITS Haute Jewels For The New Normal, High-Shine Style and Shan Khan In Lebanese-Designed Couture

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12 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

ART

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE

Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Staff Writer JENNA CALVERT

Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN

Contributing Editors DREW JONES ELIZA SCARBOROUGH NAOMI CHADDERTON

PUBLISHING

Contributing Photographers CHANTELLE DOSSER DANIEL FLIEGAUF GREG ADAMSKI PETROS MANN TINA PATNI

Office Manager JULIA NICOLAE

Sales Manager RABIH EL TURK

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Guest Fashion Stylists ANNA HUGHES-CHAMBERLAIN ANNA KLEIN SOFIA LAZZARI STUART ROBERTSON

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com Subscriptions Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Cover photographed by Petros Model Shan Khan Pasca wears a Georges Hobeika Haute Couture archive piece WWW.MOJEH.COM Follow us on Instagram @MOJEH_Magazine Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Tel: +971 4 425 86 00, Email: louis@louisfourteen.com Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC SD3-015, Building 3, Dubai Design District, Dubai, UAE, P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (February-June 2018): 11,077 copies For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution – UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

MOJEH.COM THE LATEST IN STYLE AND LUXURY

FASHION

BEAUTY

MEET THE ARTIST MOJEH talks to Lebanese painter Tagreed Darghouth

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

FASHION FOR NOW The uplifting autumn trends to have fun with

LIFESTYLE

VIDEOS

GET REDDY Think auburn lips and vermillion eyes for bold fall beauty

THE LATEST

HAUTE HANGOUTS From rooftop restaurants to boho bars beside the sea

RUNWAY REPORT The highlights from Fashion Week to watch on repeat

SOCIALLY-DISTANT DESTINATIONS Nearby boltholes that offer undisturbed bliss

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THE STYLE EDIT

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The return of the belt, Bazza Alzouman’s bid to get us back in gowns, a love letter to Lebanon, and more

INSTANTLY IDENTIFIABLE MOJEH plays dress-up with Bottega Veneta’s latest Middle East-exclusive launches

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THE FUTURE OF FASHION

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Seasonless style? The death of the runway? Writer Eliza

Scarborough investigates the turning of the fashion tide

EXPRESS YOURSELF Photographer Petros captures model Shan Khan Pasca in the season’s most mood-boosting dresses

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RISE & SHINE Stunning high-jewellery pieces offer a dreamy autumnal escape when paired with tulle and silk

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THE SLOWDOWN

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Ever considered immersing yourself in nature instead of a therapist’s

chair? And are you paying attention to the role stress plays in

destabilising gut health? MOJEH investigates

MY STYLISH LIFE MOJEH joins jewellery designer Valérie Messika on a tour of her French country retreat. Take note

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CULTURE EDIT From the exhibitions to add to your diary to the city’s hautest of

hangouts, this is where you should be in October

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Field Day, photographed by Chantelle Dosser

TOGETHER

Express Yourself, photographed by Petros

At times of uncertainty, fashion has traditionally responded with both flair and flamboyancy – a fairy-tale escape from the ambiguity of life, if only for a fleeting moment. After several months dominated by a subdued, functional aesthetic, this month’s fashion – brimming as it is with fiery tones and lavish textures – embraces excitement once again and promises to engage your senses, lift spirits and whisk you to a place of wonderment, whatever may be going on in the world outside.

And the sentiment starts with our cover. Following August’s devastating explosion in Beirut, Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika was unable to put his AW20 collection into full production, so we’ve instead handpicked an awe-inspiring Haute Couture look, direct from Hobeika’s archive. It’s a reminder to the world that even in the darkest of moments, passion and creativity will always rise up. Modelled by the incredible Shan Khan, a boundless and bumblebee yellow bow cascades to the ground, while dewy jewels dazzle infinitely: an emblem for unending hope.

On that note, are you willing take a cue from Khan and step out in a piece that is one-, two-, or even five years old…

Haute Couture or otherwise? Our main feature delves into the turning tides of the fashion industry, questioning whether or not the traditional season is still relevant – how can you build a wardrobe of pieces that will last a lifetime, instead of just a month? Turn to The Future Of Fashion.

Finally, I hope for our 12-page beauty edit to arm you with short- and long-term solutions to managing the anxiety that comes hand-in-hand with 2020, from immersing oneself in nature to simple steps to add to your beauty regime. We are in this together.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

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THE MOJEH EDIT 8

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Epic tailoring dazzled-up with high-jewellery signals a return to the nine-to-five. Add a statement bag, come nightfall 1. TIFFANY & CO. | 2. TWISTED ROOTS | 3&4. GABRIELA HEARST at Net-A-Porter | 5. CARTIER | 6. DIOR | 7. PRADA | 8. BOTTEGA VENETA 9. ROGER DUBUIS

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THE STYLE EDIT

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Ben Gorham and make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench launch new beauty line

GORHAM’S NEW GIG Not content with ruling just the fragrance world, Byredo’s founder and creative director Ben Gorham has made his first foray into cosmetics by Sharon Cho x Yoox, made from 100 per cent recycled plastic bottles

launching a six-product make-up line with innovative make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench. The idea for a Byredo make-up launch has been living in the mind of Gorham for some time, as he explains: “After the initial run of making fragrance and how that related to people’s ideas of beauty… I started to feel that there could be a very visual manifestation of beauty for Byredo.”

The duo bucked commercial conventions in favour of ethical ingredients and easy application, with an inaugural line comprising 16 multi-use colour sticks, 15 lipsticks, lip balm, mascara, black liquid eyeliner, and three eye shadow palettes. After all, “beauty is subjective – Byredo Makeup had to reflect that,” adds Gorham. This is one to get excited about.

The Viv’ Flower Strass Fringe

BUILT TO LAST round of applause for Yoox, which has partnered with the

BAGS OF STYLE

winner of the 2019 YOOXYGEN Award and Parsons BFA

Since making its debut back in 2019, Roger Vivier’s Viv’ Cabas bag has

Fashion Designer Graduate, Sharon Cho, to create a capsule

graced the arm of many a style icon. Back for 2020, the French fashion

collection made from 100 per cent recycled plastic bottles and

designer and creative director Gherardo Felloni has created a 12-piece,

eco-friendly wool. Sharon Cho x Yoox comprises eco-friendly

limited-edition collection of the much-coveted item, this time inspired by

suits, coats and trousers for men and women, designed to be

Felloni’s passion for antique jewellery.

styled for a wealth of occasions. Perfect for today’s seasonless

Working with precious materials such as velvet, leather, crystals and pearls,

wardrobe, tailoring is at the heart of the new collection, with

each bag is a one-of-a-kind work of art that took hours of skill to complete.

timeless silhouettes to be worn over and over again. Think

The Viv’ Flower Strass Fringe, for example, took artisans 38 hours to perfect.

perfectly crafted blazers, functional tailoring, dynamic cuts

Clients can reserve their piece in the UAE, Paris or London flagships, but

and a strict colour palette of black, beige and white. Bravo!

will need to be quick off the mark.

Sustainable fashion has never been more important, so a big

ETRO

CHLOÉ

MIU MIU

PRADA

CAROLINA HERRERA

RALPH AND RUSSO

GO TO WAIST It’s official – the waist is back for A/W20.

A slimmed-down version of the Noughties favourite waist belt ruled many a runway this season, with everyone from Prada to Paco Rabanne showcasing the cinching accessory over blazers, trench coats, evening dresses and everything in between. And what’s not to love? This versatile wardrobe addition has the ability to add instant polish to any outfit.

Err on the side of casual and match your belt with relaxed separates as seen at Prada, or if you’re feeling the chill, both Ralph & Russo and Etro channelled the trend to add definition to bulky winter coats. Not just a daytime accessory, if you’re heading out after hours then take inspiration from Paco Rabanne PACO RABANNE

and Miu Miu, who styled thin waist belts worn loud and proud over statement embellished eveningwear. The options are endless.

Homegrown brand Odist launches a line of vegan brushes

20 BEAUTY WITH HEART

Newly launched in the Middle East, Odist is shining a light on ethical and climate-conscious beauty with the launch of 10 premium vegan make-up brushes for face and eyes. MOJEH spoke to founder Amy Hanbury about her exciting new venture What can vegan brushes do for the skin’s health? Vegan make-up brushes are generally more hygienic and better for sensitive skin types. Unlike synthetic hair, natural hair make-up brushes are more porous and will therefore absorb and hold product much longer, which can result in product and bacterial build-up. This can be a problem for people with sensitive skin because the spread of bacteria can lead to allergic reactions and even cause acne. In this case, synthetic vegan brushes are a much better choice to prevent such an occurrence. What can they do for a beauty regime? High-quality

Bazza Alzouman’s latest collection makes a case for dressing up

vegan brushes generally offer a denser application of make-up because they don’t hold a cuticle. Essentially, this means the bristles absorb less product than natural hair make-up brushes, therefore allowing you to get more from your make-up products. We’ve spent the last two years developing three high performing brush types that work with range of textures and formulas so that every type of application is seamless, whether you’re working with liquid, cream, powder or gel products. What inspired you to launch Odist? Offering luxury make-up brushes is a way of contributing to someone else’s artistic vision and spirit – and I love that. I felt the Middle East lacked a homegrown brand offering luxury vegan brushes that’s backed by responsible values. I firmly believe that animals shouldn’t have to suffer for our vanity. I wanted to create high-performing vegan brushes that deliver outstanding results and will stand the test of time.

Saint Laurent’s regional exclusives

MADE IN KUWAIT While social plans may still be touch-and-go, there’s one Kuwaiti designer who is not letting Covid-19 dampen her spirits.

For A/W20, Bazza Alzouman – whose collections are now available on Ounass– has created a repertoire of 26 eveningwear silhouettes as a response to the future of formal dressing, comprising floor-grazing and tea-length gowns, dresses cut just above the knee, effortless tulle

FIRST DIBS

skirts and a special two-piece look composed of sleek cutout trousers

Be it day or night, Saint Laurent has us covered with

and muted colours. “While it’s important to acknowledge things are

two regional exclusive new additions to its winter 2020

different for the time being and foreseeable future, we also must

portfolio. Carry the rubis Nano Sac de Jour in ostrich

acknowledge how precious and delicate life is and not pass up any

for a day in the office and swap for the small oil green

opportunity to celebrate moments of happiness, even under these

Sunset Chain bag in ostrich for a post-work dinner date.

circumstances,” she told MOJEH. Hear, hear.

Keep your clothing crisp and clean for the full effect.

Choose from a gorgeous array of dresses in white, beige, blush pink

with flamboyant ruffle blouse, all conceptualised on strong shapes

and just a touch of grey – unequivocally beautiful (and suitably moodboosting) whether going out or staying home.

Azzi & Osta AW20 Couture collection

POSTCARDS TO LEBANON Milan Fashion Week’s ‘Spotlight on Lebanese Designers’ initiative offered a much needed platform to the country’s enduring talent With Lebanon still reeling from the devastating explosion in August, Milan Fashion Week came out in support of six Lebanese designers by showcasing their work through Milano Fashion Week’s digital platform. As part of Sara Maino’s ‘Spotlight on Lebanese Designers’ initiative, Emergency Room Beirut, Azzi & Osta, Roni Helou, Boyfriend the Brand, Hussein Bazaza and L’Atelier Nawbar were each asked to produce a video to be presented at MFW as a gesture of solidarity with the citizens of Beirut.

Speaking of how it felt to be able to present their SS21 collection considering the struggles of the last two months, designers Azzi & Osta explained: “It gave motivation to overcome the sense of devastation. We wanted to express hope and optimism, and we translated it all into the SS21 collection.” This sense of hope also shines through in voluminous colourpop gowns and striking black embroidered jumpsuits from the House’s AW20 couture collection (featured here and available now), which should take pride of place in your festive season wardrobe.

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R A

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D Bold, bright, warm and energetic, this vivid hue exudes confidence and instantaneously lifts even the darkest of moods

Photography by Tina Patni Styling by Stuart Robertson

Floral Fantasy A perennial print floral paired with this season’s most coveted hue, ruby red, makes for feminine romance that still packs a stylish punch.

Mule, VALENTINO

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Crystal Accents Rhinestones and other embellishments popped up in small doses on the fall runways and the diamantĂŠ flowers on these make them the perfect on-trend evening heel.

Pump, ROGER VIVIER

Telling Time The radiant dial and glittering oscillating diamonds will instantly elevate your look with this watch-meets-jewellery hybrid. Consider this the new classic.

Watch, DIOR

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Bejewelled Wonders Part ear candy, part precious adornment, these dazzling white gold and diamond earrings are the perfect and only accent needed for an all-red look.

Earrings, CHANEL High Jewellery

The Bold Boot There’s no escaping the fact that maximalism is back in a big way for 2020, and this extends to ankle boots. Go for a more-is-more approach with a platform and patent finish.

Boots, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

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Painterly Print Break up fiery brights with Impressionist-inspired prints.

These timeless and elegant mules will give just the right clash of colour to a monochrome look.

Mule, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

A Structural Masterpiece With side handles, a sumptuous texture and an incandescent red hue, we’re definitely adding this to our accessories collection for a fresh take on a statement grab-and-go bag.

Bag, HERMÉS

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THE LOOK

CECILIE BAHNSEN

CHLOÉ

DAY IN, DAY OUT With its return to playful sophistication, this season’s day dress is the dream wardrobe staple for all occasions In this strangest of years, you’d be forgiven for thinking that autumn/winter 2020 trends have become obsolete. After all, events have been cancelled, we’re working from home and we’re socialising online. However, if one item of clothing can perfectly sum up the season’s ‘all dressed up and nowhere to go’ mood, it’s the new day dress.

While glamour certainly isn’t off the table – we just need to take one glance at Chanel’s choux pastry puff sleeves or Tom Ford’s glistening gowns to see the optimism for an exuberant festive season – the day dress in question sauntered down many a runway in March, elevated from the usual occasions. Think playful prints, a smorgasbord of accessories and styles to suit most body types, this is a return to elegance in a more upbeat manner. “Although dressing up means something different now, there are still opportunities to wear something a bit more glamorous,” explains Natalie Kingham, buying director at MatchesFashion. “As our customer spends more time at home, they are taking a more effortless approach to dressing up, and that is where day dresses from brands such as Kalita and SIR work so well – CELINE

Words: Naomi Chadderton | Imagery: Gorunway

throw-on-and-go styles to sophisticated silhouettes for all

ISABEL MARANT

ALTUZARRA

comfortable, elegant and perfect for a more relaxed occasion.”

Gone are the days of an acid-washed denim jacket thrown over a simple floral dress and ballet pumps. Proof can be seen at Chloé, where Natacha Ramsay-Levi paired highcollared feminine dresses with heavy black military boots, or at Altuzarra, where models stormed down the catwalk in graceful floral shirt dresses inspired by Joseph Altuzarra’s Chinese heritage. “Romantic dresses provide an element of escapism and are an evolution of the easy, throw-on-and-go dresses we have become so accustomed to,” adds Kingham.

“They feel nostalgic and uplifting but at the same time are modern and sophisticated.”

If the romantic vibe isn’t your thing, then look to Isabel Marant, whose ’80s-inspired day dresses came crafted in muted colours and oversized silhouettes. Her trademark styling trick, in which a belt is used to cinch-in voluminous jackets, was in full effect here too, teamed with dominating bags held as clutches for extra style points. If you’re insistent on dressing up, Celine’s sumptuous gold day dresses were minimalist in shape yet given a Studio 54 makeover with metallic materials and statement ruffles – the best of both worlds.

It’s this versatility of the day dress that is making it so popular right now, says Kingham. “There are different interpretations of the day dress that can appeal to many different personal styles, whether you opt for a dreamier style from Cecilie Bahnsen or prefer a more minimal look from brands such as Co, or Three Graces.” And that’s before adding accessories, which will take you from day to night with the switch of a shoe. “Style with a chunky boot for a modern look, a hiking sandal or pair of trainers for something more casual, or if you want to feel more elegant, you could pair with some fine jewellery and a pair of ballerina flats.

The beauty of these types of dresses is that they can be dressed up or down so easily, which fits perfectly into our customers’ lifestyle right now.” Sounds like just what we need.

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Seoul-based designer, Minju Kim

South Korean Minju Kim is taking the fashion world by storm with her fairytale designs and playful aesthetic. MOJEH discovers what’s next for the game-changing designer From winning both Netflix’s Next in Fashion series and the H&M Design Award, to standing as a semi-finalist in the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize, it’s safe to say that Seoul-based designer Minju Kim has a bounty of impressive industry accolades under her belt. Now dubbed as one of fashion’s rising stars by Net-A-Porter – who most recently signed her up for its celebrated The Vanguard collection for A/W20 – all eyes are on this brave and boisterous designer.

A graduate of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Kim launched her namesake brand Minjukim in 2015, and has since become renowned for her unique combination of youthful playfulness and avant-garde haute couture – something which Kim credits to her own life experiences. “It’s is all about myself; it is made with anything that inspires me: movies, my cats, computer games, night and day, dreams or emotions,” she tells MOJEH. These inspirations are evident in her brave candy-coloured collections, which come emblazoned with statement motifs and billowing shapes reminiscent of the hanbok (Korea’s national costume). In fact, all of Kim’s whimsical pieces have a distinctly Asian inspiration – something she claims she never intended, yet “comes out naturally.”

Her autumn/winter 20 collection ‘Knight of Night’ is no different: Kim once again designs for the modern-day woman looking to express herself individually, rather than following traditional seasonal trends.

“It is about a girl knight who protects me from nightmares,” Kim shares.

“I imagined Joan of Arc as my knight. This season, the graphics have elements which reminded me of a knight, such as swords, roses and praying hands. The shapes come from night gowns and robes with strong volume.” Silk-like blouses, voluminous quilt coats and classic corset dresses in a feminine palette of rose, baby pink and mint are offset by Gothic transparent blouses that balance both seduction and tenderness; after all: “I don’t have a particular muse in my head, I really want women of all ages to enjoy my collections,” she explains.

It’s this eclectic style that caught the eye of Net-A-Porter’s Elizabeth von der Goltz, who was quick to snap Kim up for talent-incubator programme The Vanguard. “We are always looking for someone with a unique brand DNA, and also someone who can translate their designs into something our customer will buy and wear,” she explains.

“Minju’s use of shapes, volumes, colours and prints are what really resonate with our global customer.” It seems that Kim’s moment in the spotlight is only just beginning.

Interview: Kelly Baldwin | Words: Naomi Chadderton | Imagery: supplied

THE DESIGNER

SEOUL POWER

“

It is about a girl knight who protects me from nightmares.

Designer Minju Kim says of her latest collection

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STYLE EDIT

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7 FULL STORY Accent head-to-toe tailoring with miniature accessory pieces and splashes of colour – add sequins for extra shine 1&2. BRØGGER at Farfetch | 3. RENE CAOVILLA | 4. PRADA | 5&8. BOTTEGA VENETA | 6. HERMÈS | 7. A.W.A.K.E MODE

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Imagery: supplied and Gorunway

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SUNNY-SIDE UP Pare-back tangerine tones with rich injections of navy, and always, always opt for gold to complement the sunny shade 1. BOTTEGA VENETA | 2. CHANEL | 3. PRADA | 4. MIU MIU | 5. MKS | 6. NINA RICCI at Net-A-Porter | 7. MAX MARA

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WOMAN OF STYLE

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FRESH AS A DAISY With her pared-back-meets-elegant approach to fashion, actor Daisy Edgar-Jones already has the industry’s most prolific designers knocking on her door, finds MOJEH Words by Naomi Chadderton | Photography by Dan Martensen

Daisy Edgar-Jones is the woman everyone is talking

The off-duty-glamour-inspired collection, which

about. In the space of just a few weeks, the 22-year

comprises everything from square-toe heels and

old British actress was catapulted to fame for her

bejewelled ankle boots to autumnal suede Chelsea boots,

portrayal of Marianne Sheridan on hit Irish drama

pays homage to Daisy’s laid-back yet perfectly polished

Normal People, a televised adaptation of Sally

style. Here, Daisy models a high-low vibe, teaming lavish

Rooney’s novel of the same name. Yet in addition to

tulle with biker boots, and sharp tailoring with trainers,

her flair for acting, Edgar-Jones has also made a swift

confirming her reputation as a true style chameleon.

and seamless immersion into the A-list style set, most

“My golden rule to dressing up is not to have a rule,”

recently bagging herself a spot as the star of Jimmy

she reveals in an interview set against the backdrop

Choo’s ‘In My Choos’ autumn/winter 2020 campaign.

of London’s trendy Marylebone district. “Day-to-day I

“

If you don’t follow any rules and just wear what makes you feel good that day, it means you can keep on having fun.

Actor Daisy Edgar-Jones

like to try different things, so I don’t have a set style.”

Even Jimmy Choo’s creative director Sandra Choi has

Daisy has been turning heads with her elegant yet

described her as a “modern heroine in the making”, and

effortless approach since before Normal People was

someone who “represents the archetypal Jimmy Choo

even released, and it’s not hard to see why the 22-year-old

muse for a new era.” Not bad going for a girl who says her

British actress is being dubbed as fashion’s one-to-watch

top tip is to “fake it ’til you make it. If you pretend that

for 2020. From the subtle Roland Mouret suit she sported

everything is fine, slowly you start to believe it.”

at the designer’s autumn/winter 20 show during London

Daisy’s love affair with fashion started at just seven years

Fashion Week, to the crystal-studded Miu Miu dress she

old when her 22-year-old cousin, who was studying to be

wore to this year’s TV BAFTAs in London, the industry’s

a show designer, moved into the family home. “She was

most prolific designers are clamouring to dress her.

the coolest person, and I would try on all her shoes,” Daisy tells us. “I was devastated because my feet were always too small for them, and then she moved out. When she

Edgar-Jones dresses down a tailored suit with trainers

moved back in, my feet were too big.” Daisy would spend her days playing dress-up with styles from her collection, and today still recognises the transformational power that accessories have in bringing a character to life.

“Marianne’s accessories were so helpful because I had to track quite a lot of an age difference over four years,” she says. “For me, what really helped was the shoes, because I think the way that you walk says a lot about your character. Fashion reinforces how transformative accessories, especially shoes, can be when playing a role.”

Backing Daisy’s corner is stylist to the stars Nicky Yates, who has guided the actress to sartorial success and was responsible for orchestrating her first major red carpet moment at the BAFTAs in London this February, where Daisy stunned in an ethereal yet modern balloon-sleeved, off-shoulder dress by ecoconscious label Mother of Pearl.

However, much like her Normal People character, Daisy has no interest in following the crowd, preferring to rip up the fashion rule book and dress individually.

“My golden rule is not to have a rule!” she says. “Dayto-day I like to try different things, so I don’t really have a set style. I think if you don’t follow any rules and just wear what makes you feel good that day, it means you can keep on having fun.”

As for the Jimmy Choo collection itself, Daisy was particularly enamoured with the Cruz boots – the black grainy leather combat boots crafted with crystal detail she can be seen sporting in the new season campaign images. “I love how the collection includes off-duty styles as well as glamorous heels,” she adds.

With lockdown easing and the awards season finally within reach, this looks set to be just the beginning of Daisy’s style journey, with plenty more extraordinary fashion moments tantalisingly within reach.

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INSTANTLY IDENTIFIABLE

All at once edgy and elegant, Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee brings his vision to the Middle East with an exclusive drop Photography by Greg Adamski

|

Styling by Kelly Baldwin

This page: Jumpsuit and cardigan (both exclusive to UAE and Kuwait), earrings and shoes, BOTTEGA VENETA Opposite page: Green dress and green slides (both exclusive to UAE and Kuwait), red dress, BOTTEGA VENETA

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Trench coat and bag (both exclusive to UAE and Kuwait), top and shoes, BOTTEGA VENETA

Dress, trench coat and boots, BOTTEGA VENETA

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Cardigan, jumpsuit, bag and shoes (all exclusive to UAE and Kuwait), BOTTEGA VENETA

Dress, BOTTEGA VENETA

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Bag (exclusive to UAE and Kuwait), dress and boots, BOTTEGA VENETA

Bag (exclusive to UAE and Kuwait), trench coat and dress, BOTTEGA VENETA

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Dress (exclusive to UAE and Kuwait), and boots, BOTTEGA VENETA

Jumpsuit, dress and boots, BOTTEGA VENETA Photographer: Greg Adamski | Stylist: Kelly Baldwin | Models: Cynthia at MMG Models and Claudia at Signature Element | Hair and make-up artist: Ania Poniatowska | Styling assistant: Aagam Kaur | Studio: Stellar Studios, Dubai

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Bracelet in platinum with tsavorites and diamonds, TIFFANY & CO.

Colour your world with statement high jewellery collections that are as bold as they are beautiful, meticulously designed to stand out from the crowd It was back in 1970 that Africa yielded yet another incredible find with the discovery of a glistening green gemstone at the Kenya-Tanzania border near Tsavo National Park. The garnet in question, of course, is the tsavorite – the radiant green stone extravagant enough to rival of the beauty of its emerald counterpart, and then some. It’s this tsavorite that is the star of Tiffany & Co.’s bold new platinum bracelet, hailing from the Colors of Tiffany High Jewellery Collection.

Carefully crafted with a timeless geometric pattern of jewels, this pièce de résistance elegantly wraps the wrist in over 22 total carats of baguette tsavorites and over 20 total carats of round brilliant diamonds, epitomising the defiantly fearless high jewellery offering for which the luxury name is renowned. For many, jewellery is a decorative adornment that sits firmly under the accessories mantle; for others it is categorically a work of art. Once again, Tiffany & Co. brings together the best of both worlds.

Words: Naomi Chadderton | Photography: Tina Patni | Styling: Stuart Robertson

THE MASTERPIECE

PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE

Taylor began painting portraits in the ’80s, inspired by the people he met while working as a psychiatric technician

When Art and Fashion Collide American artist Henry Taylor is the latest creative to make his mark on Louis Vuitton’s Capucines bag, lending his vision to the French fashion house’s exquisite craftsmanship Words by Naomi Chadderton Photography by Paul Wetherell

W

American Artist Henry Taylor at his studio in LA

THE INSPIRATION

hen Louis Vuitton launched its Artycapucines project in 2019, the ground-breaking collaboration gave six contemporary artists free rein to reinvent its classic Capucines bag, with artists including Sam Falls, Nicholas Hlobo and Tschabalala Self each lending their vision to the brand’s renowned craft. Fast forward one year and American artist Henry Taylor is the latest creative to be enlisted by the French fashion house for the collection, marrying his expressive 2017 painting ‘A Young Master’ with the latest cutting-edge laser printing and traditional marquetry.

Born in Oxnard, California in 1958 to a commercial painter father and a housekeeper mother, Taylor first realised his love for the arts while working as a psychiatric technician at the Camarillo State Mental Hospital. Here he painted portraits of patients while studying for a BFA at the California Institute of Arts – an experience which ignited his passion and would ultimately shape his entire career.

“I was in my twenties,” says Taylor, “and around that time I met James Jarvaise, a painter who’d been in the 1959 MoMA group show called 16 Americans, curated by Dorothy Miller, alongside people like Frank Stella and Robert Rauschenberg. Jarvaise saw my paintings and said, ‘Henry, you need to start taking my painting class,’ and I said ‘Wait, you need to go to school to be an artist?’ I was naïve, you know. He really changed my life.”

Best known for his portrait paintings, the Los Angelesbased artist synthesises imagery and figures from history, popular culture and personal experience to present complex social commentary. African American subjects are a key focus in his work, which often explores his experience of being black in contemporary America, with subjects ranging from prominent industry figures in the art world and celebrities including Miles Davis and Cicely Tyson, to victims of police violence. That said, his earliest

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Taylor credits his oeuvre to his younger years and time spent with people in challenging situations: “I think all this permeated and affected me, made me empathetic when I paint.”

Taylor’s Artycapucines piece features the late Noah Davis, the black American artist and founder of LA’s Underground Museum.

Photograph by Christophe Coënon

inspirations came from his mother, whose nurturing nature would go on to permeate deep within Taylor’s imaginations when it came to his creations.

“Working in a psychiatric hospital means you experience a lot of challenged people, and way before that my mother used to invite homeless folk who we knew from the neighbourhood into our home to give them something to eat, to hear their stories,” he explains. “I think all this permeated and affected me, made me empathetic when I paint, whether it’s a landscape or a portrait of someone on Skid Row in downtown LA.” Over the past decade, his profile has steadily risen, and he now boasts an impressive portfolio of high-profile collectors including Beth Rudin DeWoody, François Pinault, the Rubells, and Peter Brant. And while his auction record of $975,000 was set at Sotheby’s New York in 2018 with the sale of ‘I’ll Put a Spell On You’ (a layered tableau of figures standing outside and lying indoors), six of his top 10 auction prices were set just last year. They remain relatively in line with his private sales, which have hovered between $100,000 and $300,000 for new works, and have gone as high as $850,000 for older material.

Taylor is no stranger to Louis Vuitton – his work is part of the permanent collections of the Fondation Louis Vuitton, and in 2018 the museum bought one of his paintings of the US-Mexico border, priced at $175,000. However, he fuses

Reproducing Taylor’s painting on the bag required over 100 experiments.

Photograph by Christophe Coënon

“

Noah was a real visionary to put together a grassroots community museum like Underground… So putting his portrait on this bag is my way of keeping him here and present.

Artist Henry Taylor

fashion and art for the first time with his latest project for the house, with the iconic taupe taurillon leather of the Capucines bag serving as the perfect blank canvas for ‘A Young Master’ – a portrait of the late Noah Davis, the black American artist and founder of LA’s Underground Museum who died due to complications from a rare cancer at the age of just 32.

“When I first met Noah, he made a real impression on me,” says Taylor. “I’m the youngest sibling in my family, and he was younger than me, so I looked to him as a very smart and ambitious little brother. I never thought I’d miss somebody so much; it’s hard for me to talk about him.

“Noah was a real visionary to put together a grassroots community museum like Underground. It’s the most progressive space in LA. So putting his portrait on this bag is my way of keeping him here and present.”

Reproducing the painting expertly on leather required all Louis Vuitton’s expertise, with over 100 experiments to test different methods of 2D and 3D printing needed before the image on the leather matched not only the exact colours of the original work, but also its multitude of textures. However, the end result is a portrait that is also a sensational sculptural bas relief created by exact reproductions of Taylor’s original brushstrokes. A white leather flap, leather-covered handle attached with brass and leather rings, and a metal ‘LV’ inlaid with smooth leather act as an eclectic contrast to the bag’s body, bringing his unique vision of the brand’s legacy to life.

Inspired by Rue Neuve-des-Capucines, the Paris street where Louis Vuitton opened its inaugural store in 1854, the Capucines bag was first introduced in 2013, with only 300 of each limited-edition design produced. Originally notable for eschewing the brand’s traditional monogram canvas for just one bold italicised ‘LV’ on its front, seven years on and the style remains well-loved, with its minimalist design keeping it beyond the realm of trends.

And how does Taylor now feel about being part of this iconic legacy? “Seeing the completed bag is beautiful; it makes me want to cry,” he says. “There’s that quote, ‘Sometimes you have to be lost before you can be found’, and with this project, it was about what I found. It feels right.”

Taylor’s work is also part of the permanent collection at the Fondation Louis Vuitton

THE JEWELS

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Victoire de Castellane’s latest high jewllery collection for Dior is inspired by a hypnotic tie-dye print

OVER THE

Dripping in gem-encrusted eclecticism, Dior’s latest high jewellery collection, Tie & Dior, mirrors the kaleidoscopic palette and saturated swirls of tie-dye Words by Jenna Calvert

Imagery: supplied

RAINBOW

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or over 20 years, Victoire de Castellane has honoured the life and work of Christian Dior, turning his beloved blooms into brightly coloured lacquers, capturing his fascination with Versailles in chandelier-esque drop earrings, and drawing endless inspiration from his childhood home in Granville, France; from the pink shade of the walls injected into high jewels, to the source of the Rose De Vents collection – a compass rose engraved in the floor. But for de Castellane’s latest high jewellery designs, the artistic director of Dior Joaillerie was enamoured with a different type of muse, offering her own glittering take on the artisanal textile dyeing technique (and firm lockdown pastime) known as tie-dye.

Captured in chromatic gem form across the Tie & Dior collection, de Castellane plays on a theme that binds her to her counterparts (womenswear creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri and menswear creative director Kim Jones), rather than Christian Dior himself — with tie-dye prints often reflected on the runway. De Castellane’s vision for the trend is far more conceptual, however, abstracting the psychedelic 1960s pattern into hypnotic clusters of colour-rich jewels made to adorn the neckline or sit upon the house’s signature mismatched earrings. Deeply connected to haute couture, the thoughtful and intricate placement of each precious stone mirrors the movement of a delicate print embroidered onto fabric or the trail of ink subtlety spreading on paper. The result, is a rainbow-hued haze of gobstopper stones in every imaginable shape — blending round, oval, pear and marquise cuts in various gradations of colour that push the art of realism to the maximum.

Composed of more than one hundred pieces, Tie & Dior reveals double rings bursting with pink and blue sapphires, tsavorite garnets, rubies and paraiba-type tourmaline surrounding a pastel-tinted pearl or a colossal stone. A striking emerald is nestled in the centre of a bracelet edged with gemstones, punctuated with diamonds and finessed with a pistachiocoloured pearl. A pair of asymmetrical earrings meld lilac, magenta and amber stones with turquoise and deep azures on one side, and on the other, golden yellows bleed into green before oozing into blue. Each piece feels like a freespirited work of art, as de Castellane disrupts the rules of haute joaillerie and confidently clashes colour, contrasts textures, and experiments with proportions. Not afraid to place a pearl off-centre, or audaciously throw in an extra jewel, the collection showcases a new unrestrained facet of de Castellane’s creativity, alongside the meticulous savoir-faire of the Dior jewellery ateliers.

Despite her 20-year tenure at the helm of Dior Joaillerie, Tie & Dior marks the first time that de Castellane has worked with a significant amount of pearls. The artistic director reinterprets the silky orb in light sherbet tints of pink, orange and lemon, or dark inky pools of slate grey and olive green — revealing a fanciful adornment that would not look out of place on a Maria

Comprising more than one hundred jewellery pieces, Tie & Dior melds a plethora of dazzling gemstones, from tourmalines to sapphires

Grazia Chiuri gown. Irregularly scattered across bracelets, rings and earrings, and dangled from the edge of necklaces, the pearls collide and contrast with a multitude of stones to further emulate the unexpected rhythm of tie-dye textiles.

While most pieces are bursting with starburst hues, some styles take a more classical route, with clear stones encircling a honey pearl, or a single ruby embedded within a shower of diamonds, elevated by a traditional-coloured floating pearl.

First presented during a magical summer’s evening in Shanghai — where models wore silk dresses in every of the rainbow, tying into the jewellery collection’s never-ending spectrum — Tie & Dior blends the world of high-fashion and haute jewellery with fantastical pieces that make dressing up a work of art. Adopting the colour-me-happy attitude that made this technique so desirable during recent times of uncertainty, Victoire de Castellane has created a collection that is bursting with optimism and joy. Who knew tie-dye could be so exquisite?

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FASHION FEATURE

Chanel’s AW20 runway show in March 2020; the house has since staged shows and presentations void of audiences

The Future of Fashion It is a time to rethink and reset as the fashion world is calling Wordy by Eliza Scarborough for change in life after lockdown

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he crisis created by the Covid-19 pandemic hit the fashion industry hard. Online shopping surged, but not enough to erase the damage done by store closures and economic instability, which caused people to curtail spending on nonessential goods. As countries reopen their economies, and companies return to work, the wheels of fashion are slowly turning again after months of lockdown. But it doesn’t look like it will return to what it was before, with the fashion community urging the industry to use the hiatus as a time to rethink and reset. Behaviours and preferences have changed, while ultimately a shift in mindset in a post-pandemic world has crystallised the many challenges facing the industry, from the outmoded runway show schedule to the interrelated problems of out-of-sync deliveries and excess markdowns. So, as the lockdown lifts, high-profile names are calling for an industry rethink, in what some are calling a defining watershed moment.

The first outlook to be shared on resetting the fashion industry came in the form of an open letter on 12th May penned by Dries Van Noten. In it, the signees propose a plan that would transform the way the industry works, addressing the timing of collection deliveries and discounts, something that has become even more urgent

given the economic impact wrought by Covid-19. Under their proposal, the current sales seasons would shift, aligning the product with the weather outside, with Fall collections selling from August to January and Spring collections from February to July. This focus towards transitional pieces rather than sticking to seasons is an approach that Elizabeth Von Der Goltz, Global Buying Director at Net-a-Porter, has been witnessing in recent collections. “We see pieces such as strong tailoring and knitwear featuring on both Summer and Winter runways now, as they are such key transitional season wardrobe pieces for our customers. Since we have a global clientele, our buy already transcends seasons as we address the needs of all customers throughout the year. As a whole, for Autumn/Winter 2020, there was an exciting mix of new and established designers showcasing an array of pieces that are some of the most wearable we’ve seen in recent seasons,” she comments.

By abandoning the idea of seasons, the notion that shopping has to be weather-orientated will be less prominent, leading to considered shopping that lasts over time and is not simply of the time. Nez Gebreel, CEO, Dubai Design and Fashion Council, believes that this move away from weather-led collections is

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“Fashion is a very timely thing and needs to be able to react to its surroundings,” suggests Syrian designer Rami Al Ali, whose recent ready-towear collection shed its statement sequins and took on a more timeless appeal

far more advantageous for the global citizen buyers in the Middle East region who have more fluid wardrobes.

“A lot of the brands in the region already operate in this way, with many running a slightly different calendar to global brands. Partly because they don’t have the same platform to showcase their collection, together with having different commercial drivers. For example, an important and key sales season is Ramadan, with many local brands producing collections specifically for this season,” suggests Gebreel. “Many of the smaller, younger brands find it physically and financially difficult to keep up with the international calendar.”

A departure from such a demanding schedule will certainly be a positive move for homegrown Middle East brands who will have the opportunity to be on an

equal footing with their international counterparts.

Despite the industry’s state of uncertainty, the open letter is looking at this time as an, “opportunity for a fundamental and welcome change that will simplify businesses, making them more environmentally and socially sustainable and ultimately align them more closely with customers’ needs.” Principally, the goal is to address sustainability with less unnecessary product and waste, placing more of an emphasis on creating a balanced flow of deliveries through the season, and rethinking fashion shows. This would give the customer many drops of newness but also time for products to create desire, leading to a less complicated timetable of trends. “I think it’s a healthy reset. Every industry, including the fashion industry, needs this every now and then to get it back on the right track,” Syrian-born couture designer Rami Al Ali shares. “I think there was an oversupply of products on the market, which outbalanced the real demand.”

The open letter was followed days later by another initiative with many of the same signatories. Organised by The Business of Fashion, #RewiringFashion was created by a group of independent designers, CEOs, and retail executives on 14th May, gaining momentum and later attracting many more signatures. The proposal was written in reflection to the growing concerns surrounding cancelled shows and stock in the wake of lockdown, hashing out a game plan for the future. #RewiringFashion reconsiders the way the fashion industry could, and should, work, suggesting that fashion shows should take place just one month before the collections arrive in stores, effectively making the shows for the customers rather than for the industry.

Imagine, if you will, not having to wait four or five months before you can get your hands on your mostwanted runway pieces. By aligning fashion shows, collection deliveries and real-world seasons, shows will take place just before weather-appropriate collections hit stores, allowing longer full-price sell-through periods, reshaping the dialogue between brands and the consumer, and ultimately the way fashion is purchased.

“I think we need to be nimble as designers and pivot as and when we need to for the way that the world is moving,” Dubai-based Lebanese designer Dima Ayad believes. “Fashion is a very timely thing and needs to be able to react to its surroundings.” Al Ali echoes this belief that the dialogue between designer and consumer needs to evolve, and has felt that way since witnessing

E-tailer Net-A-Porter has recently seen greater demand for pieces that transcend seasons such as dresses that look just as good teamed with sandals as they do knee-high boots

the destruction wreaked by the pandemic. “If we focus more on the local consumer and pay attention to their real needs, we can definitely move forward to create better products that reflect their requirements. This pandemic gave us the opportunity to better understand our customer and for the local consumer to better understand their local brands,” he says.

Following the open letters, the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America, which arranges New York Fashion Week), and the BFC (British Fashion Council, the organisation behind London Fashion Week), joined the chorus of industry voices, releasing their own proposal on 21 May. Dubbed ‘The Fashion Industry’s Reset’ the letter covers similar ground, calling on the community to rethink the ways in which designers and brands do business and present collections. “We are united in our steadfast belief that the fashion system must change.”

They looked to encourage brands to reduce the “stress levels” of fashion by focusing on just two annual shows.

Slowing down is key to their series of recommendations.

“For a long time, there have been too many deliveries

and too much merchandise generated. With existing inventory stacking up, designers and retailers must also look at the collections cycle and be very strategic about their products and how and when they intend to sell them.” This, Gebreel believes, has been a great focus for Middle East talent navigating their way through recent months. “In many ways, the smaller brands have told me they were much more agile and quick on their feet. Some were in the position of being able to pause, while others used the time to refocus their business and their offering. They started to enjoy the creative process again.” Ultimately, by reducing the number of shows and increasing the shelf life of collections, the customer will be encouraged to buy less, but buy better.

While the biggest houses in fashion haven’t taken part in any of the proposals, Gucci and Saint Laurent, both owned by the Kering conglomerate, have announced individual plans. In separate statements, they each expressed a desire to control their own pace. Speaking from his studio in Rome on 25 May, Gucci’s artistic director Alessandro Michele addressed his feelings

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“We will only create collections and launch them at the time it feels right to us, which is two collections a year at market time,” says designer Faiza Bouguessa

on a new direction of fashion: “I want to de-structure the fashion show and its many important elements.”

Meanwhile, Saint Laurent announced it would not show on any of the official Fashion Week schedules in September 2020, deciding to “lead its own rhythm” in the light of the Covid-19 crisis, becoming the first of the storied Parisian houses to break with tradition.

In opting out of the pre-set fashion calendar, the house insisted business as usual was no longer an option, setting a precedent for other luxury houses in the process. If more powerhouses follow in Gucci’s footsteps, then main runway collections will serve as our overall inspiration for the season and the awareness of pre-collections will diminish and consumers will be driven in store to discover new pieces not featured on the runway. This streamlined approach is something that designer Faiza Bouguessa of eponymous brand Bouguessa, has already been focussing after recently deciding to evolve towards a more sustainable approach.

“I feel that this decision made us aware that we will only create collections and launch them at the time it feels right to us, which is two collections a year at market time. We have relaunched our Signature Line as eco-conscious in an effort to reduce waste and give new life to the beautiful fabrics that were not used in previous collections.”

This shift in direction for the big-name brands is appearing to have an effect on smaller boutique names, particularly our home grown Middle Eastern talent.

Ayad believes this move will have a positive impact as consumers are already looking to support smaller brands and the region. “It is a feelgood orientation, with people wanting to support that initiative. The main element is building on what is happening in our community as a result of the pandemic. There is an eye towards supporting regional.”

So just what is the new thinking, and how will shopping change after this break? Reflecting on the tide of change, there will be a new outlook on the way consumers shop and a resulting effect on how consumers view their clothes, re-shaping shopping habits, and potentially leading to a seasonless, showless, and trendless fashion cycle. Fashion has always felt like a time warp with its six-months-ahead-of-time show to retail cycle, but that dizzying ‘What season is it again?’ feeling has increased tenfold thanks to the pandemic. “This season we saw a shift from trend-driven to item-driven shopping, with more of a focus on key wardrobe heroes to invest in.

The focus is on pieces that are functional and timeless, with good quality products that have longevity, that we can buy now and wear forever. Our wardrobe is more hardworking than ever before, featuring wellloved pieces that can be styled in multiple ways, across multiple seasons,” explains Von Der Goltz. Customers are looking for items that will stay in their wardrobe for longer than just one season, a belief that has been echoed by Bouguessa, who sees this as a positive move, from a sustainable standpoint. “Fewer shows would result in less inventory and waste, but also more time to reflect and focus on creativity and better quality of designs. Fewer drops and deliveries would result in a reduced carbon footprint, but will also force retailers to be creative with what they have, taking the time to create beautiful merchandising campaigns and windows, depending on what their customers need at a certain time of the season, therefore focusing on their existing inventory.”

For decades, the traditional seasonal calendar has served the industry well but as the reality of the current situation sets in, you could argue that we are moving past the need for this traditional model, and designers may no longer see fit to create under these same strict boundaries. During the most recent shows, we’ve seen catwalk ‘moments’ here and there, but more importantly, we’ve witnessed designers move away from trends in favour of putting timeless pieces on the catwalk that play into the consumer’s new desire for clothing that will serve them for years to come. “We have definitely noticed a shift in the way in which designers are approaching the traditional seasons,” Rebecca Tinker, womenswear buyer at Selfridges, offers. “Collections are more seasonless than ever, as brands take more of a considered approach to the longevity of a collection.

This is strongly resonating with our customers who seek pieces that they can keep in their wardrobe longer than a season.” Consumers are looking for their wardrobes to work harder year round and are steering away from buying something to wear for only one season. “More is more has gone, and people are looking for longevity,” Ayad suggests. “Whilst there may be trends, quality is what is now paramount. There is a feeling of wanting to buy investment items that have a longer shelf life and can stand the test of time.” In many ways this presents a unique opportunity, with designers gravitating towards putting timeless pieces on the catwalk, whether in response to an industry reset, a new show calendar, or

“

The region is very patriotic, in the sense that they appreciate the local talent and want to protect and support it.

Nez Gebreel, CEO, Dubai Design and Fashion Council

simply a change in demand. “Luxury is seasonless, and style eternal,” Von Der Goltz reminds us.

Equally, this reset and rethink looks like it will be a time for consumers to shop more locally for their fashion purchases. “Closing the borders and creating less travel encourages local spending instead of spending money abroad,” Al Ali believes. “The region is very patriotic, in the sense that they appreciate the local talent and want to protect and support it.” This nurturing support Gebreel thinks could potentially lead to a ‘moment’ for smaller brands. “I think what we have learnt is how important our community is; we all came together to support each other where we could.” By realising how important the creative industries are to our community, Gebreel believes our spend will be more focused on where something is coming from and who will be directly impacted by it. “There is such a sense of pride from wearing or owning something that is from a regional brand. There is something beautiful about suddenly feeling like you are part of a community, especially within a cosmopolitan city.” Ayad distills the message elegantly, saying, “The wakeup call from this pandemic is to love, cherish and nurture the ones around you first before trying to scale up to international brands.

This reset has drawn people back home to respect their regional designers.” Hear, hear.

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Unleash your inner extrovert in this season’s most extravagant gowns, replete with high-octane tones, extreme prints and billowing extras Photography by Petros Styling by Anna Hughes-Chamberlain

Skirt, top and headpiece, GEORGES HOBEIKA | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

Coat, gloves, sunglasses and earrings, BALENCIAGA

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Dress, HALPERN | Boots, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

Dress, PAUL & JOE | Earrings, AREA at Koibird

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Dress, shawl and shoes, EMILIA WICKSTEAD

Dress, STÉPHANE ROLLAND

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Dress, harness, boots and jewellery, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Dress, ROKSANDA | Hat, LOLA HATS at Koibird

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Dress and tights, RICHARD QUINN

Dress, PHILOSOPHY | Earrings, AREA at Koibird

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Dress, ROTATE BIRGER CHRISTENSEN | Earrings, 1064 STUDIO at Koibird

Dress, SIMONE ROCHA Photographer: Petros | Stylist: Anna Hughes-Chamberlain at Stella Creative Artists | Model: Shan Khan Pasca at Why Not Models | Make-up artist: Amy Conley at Stella Creative Artists | Hair stylist: Tommy Taylor at Stella Creative Artists | Photography assistant: Henry Jackson | Styling assistant: Libby Carradice | Digital operator: Hristo | Casting director: Emma Somper | Production: Stella Creative Artists

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The functionality of this season’s ready-to-wear against a backdrop that demands idiosyncrasy makes for a spirited affair Photography by Chantelle Dosser Styling by Anna Klein

Trousers, ACNE STUDIOS

Jacket and skirt, GIVENCHY

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Jacket, trousers and shoes, HERMÈS

Coat, MAISON MARGIELA

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Dress and belt, LOUIS VUITTON

Top and skirt, ACNE

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Top, ACNE STUDIOS | Briefs, PRADA

Coat and boots, MIU MIU

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Coat, socks and shoes, MAISON MARGIELA

Coat, NEHERA

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Left: Top, skirt and shoes, PRADA | Right: Shirt, jumper and skirt, PRADA | Shoes, model’s own

Jumper, ACNE STUDIOS | Skirt, NEHERA | Hat, stylist’s own

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Coat, socks and shoes, DIOR

Photographer: Chantelle Dosser | Creative direction and styling: Anna Klein | Model: Veronica Manavella at Supreme Management | Hair stylist: AnneSofie Begtrup at Wise & Talented | Photographer’s assistant: Maxime Brault | Videographer (available on MOJEH.com): Christophe Evrard

Jacket and trousers, SCHIAPARELLI | Trainers, CONVERSE

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Rise &Shine Day or night, dial up the drama with knockout highjewellery – worn best with demure clothing and a hefty dose of cool-girl attitude for added oomph Photography by Daniel Fliegauf Styling by Sofia Lazzari

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Flame earclips, brooch and ring in 18k gold and platinum with diamonds, TIFFANY & CO. | Dress, BATSHEVA

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Cuff-watch and Limelight Gem of Roses necklace, PIAGET

Avant le Frisson necklace, BOUCHERON | Dress, OLIVIA VON HALLE

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Lion VĂŠnitien necklace, ring and earrings (just seen) in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, CHANEL High Jewellery | Dress, CHANEL

Earrings in 18k white gold with emeralds and diamonds, CHOPARD | Top, MOLLY GODDARD

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Plumetis Diamant Jaune necklace in white gold with diamonds, yellow diamond and spessartite garnet, DIOR High Jewellery

Photographer: Daniel Fliegauf | Stylist: Sofia Lazzari | Model: Camille Munn at Select Models London | Make-up artist: Marcio Abraao | Hair stylist: Lauren Bell | Casting director: Ellie Vojvodinska | Stylist’s assistants: Grace Leivers and Lena Borwanska

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Queen of my Castle Indulge yourself with audacious jewels in unexpected shapes and a kaleidoscope of colour, morning, noon, or night Photography by Chantelle Dosser Styling by Anna Klein

Archi Dior Cocotte Pink Sapphire Earrings and Dior À Versailles Acanthe Diamond Ring, DIOR High Jewellery

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Dior Dior Dior Dentelle Guipure Sapphire Ring, DIOR High Jewellery

Gem Dior Vert Gazon Emerald Double Ring, DIOR High Jewellery

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Gem Dior Rose Dragee Diamond Pendant Earrings and Archi Dior Cocotte Pink Sapphire Ring (just seen), DIOR High Jewellery

Dior Dior Dior Dentelle Velours Emerald Earrings and Gem Dior Vert Egyptien Emerald Ring, DIOR High Jewellery

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Gem Dior Vert Emerald Earrings, DIOR High Jewellery

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Gem Dior Rose Dragee Pink Sapphire Double Ring and Archi Dior Cocotte Pink Sapphire Ring, DIOR High Jewellery

Gem Dior Rose Dragee Diamond Pendant Earrings, DIOR High Jewellery

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Archi Dior Cocotte Pink Sapphire Earrings and Dior À Versailles Acanthe Diamond Ring, DIOR High Jewellery

Dior à Versailles Salon De L’abondance Diamond Ring and Gem Dior Blanc Glacon Diamond Ring, DIOR High Jewellery Photographer: Chantelle Dosser | Creative director and stylist: Anna Klein | Model: Rose at Oui Management | Make-up artist: Anna Sadamori | Hair stylist: Tobias Sagner at Calliste | Photography assistant: Maxime Brault | Videographer (video live on MOJEH.com): Christophe Evrard

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THE JEWELS

High Jewellery’s New Generation Only a couple of generations ago, for a young woman, high jewellery meant heirlooms owned by matriarchs, to be one day handed down. It’s taken the appetites of millennials to persuade jewellery to become more palatable, more affordable and to speak directly to them Words by Eliza Scarborough

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igh jewellery has been upended by a generational shift in its traditional clientele, with heritage jewellery houses now looking to appeal to the 21st century consumer.

Where previous generations used their purchasing power to connote status, this one is more interested in self-expression and aligning itself with brands that represent a new outlook. Now is the time as younger, digitally savvy shoppers, to have our demands met by offerings far more in tune with our perspective. In contrast to the luxury products and expectations of our predecessors for special occasions, the world of high jewellery is listening

Photogrhed by Rui Faria for MOJEH 71

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Millennials are always willing to take risks, they’re the ones most likely to buy the newest and most unique styles Duha Al-Ramadhan, founder of Aubade boutique Noor Fare Prana collection Boucheron’s Collier Goutte de Ciel necklace, designed with a new client in mind | David Yurman’s mulitple stacked ring, avaialble on Ounass

However, turning this new generation into customers requires modern products, storytelling and marketing. “Jewellery is still very much an emotive purchase,” explains Fares, “and the younger consumer wants to purchase meaningful jewellery that is aligned with their values. Its story allows the wearer to connect with the piece, and from this, the story continues with them.”

But the challenge is twofold: designing pieces that appeal to young shoppers and then persuading them to buy jewellery for themselves at any time and not just as the occasional milestone gift. “Millennials are always willing to take risks, they’re the ones most likely to buy the newest and most unique styles,” explains Duha Al-Ramadhan, Kuwaiti founder of jewellery boutique Aubade. This demand is met through evolving faster and creating new collections more frequently to garner appeal.

Trends such as stacking of rings or dressing the and rethinking store design, launching edgier, ears with cuffs have helped develop today’s focus lower-priced collections and enlisting millennial on a new confident fashion-conscious generation looking for a unique expression of individuality. favourites to promote them.

To young fans of streetwear style, classic “Millennial women are revolutionising the world of jewellery can seem old-fashioned, staid and jewellery,” believes Yasmine Ghaemi, fine jewellery something to be worn, or given, only on special buyer at Ounass, who has seen exponential growth occasions, so marketing has been shifted to make in the sector of demi-fine jewellery in particular, products relevant. “The younger generation of a category that bridges the gap between fine- and today is confident, well informed, and knows fashion jewellery. The nature of these pieces is that what they want. They take a considered, they allow you to mix, match and personalise for sustainable approach to their purchases and are truly unique combinations. drawn to jewellery for its longevity,” believes “It is this philosophy of being free to create, to Lebanese jewellery designer Noor Fares. create new techniques, to use new materials, to

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E-tailer Ounass’ has seen exponential growth in the area of demi-fine jewellery

Jack de Boucheron by Noor Fares

by cables – and the iconic Quatre line, which is graphic, urban and genderless. Each manages to transcend generation. “The more we advance, the more we realise that this notion of freedom is becoming more and more in connection with our times. A freedom not to put individuals in boxes. We do not want to see our jewellery in a vault – we want to imagine it worn,” suggests Choisne.

Following fashion’s playbook for romancing millennials who are left unsatisfied by traditional, museum-like highend boutiques, other high jewellery brands are following in Boucheron’s footsteps, whether that means designing products that customers can personalise, or flaunting their ethical sourcing and sustainability, together with making onlineRing by Noor Fares, featuring an untraditional mix of pink, red and brown precious gemstones and in-store shopping distinctive through pop-up shops and limited-edition items.

There has also been an injection of young and constantly try to keep up with the times that means emerging jewellery brands, which have driven a even a 160-year-old Maison will naturally be able fresh, edgier perspective. “Brands have learned to continue like this,” suggests Claire Choisne, that in order to be relevant, they need to respond Creative Director at Boucheron. “Our philosophy to this demand from a new generation,” explains remains unchanged, and this notion of innovation Ghaemi. Fares designs pieces for her eponymous has been in the archives since our creation, to be line with individuality and sustainability in mind. different from the others, to push back the limits “Millennials care about where the materials come of technique and creation, to be bold, and to be from,” she says. “They understand craftsmanship, innovative. We continue the philosophy and the the symbolism, and the deeper meaning behind result is only different because we are using new each design. We are always trying to innovate and develop existing craftsmanship techniques.” techniques or materials.”

Perfect examples of this new approach are The customer-centric, open approach is a major collections Jack de Boucheron– which is inspired departure from the revered aura of exclusivity that

The Fleche du Temps earring from Boucheron

Non-identical drop earrings featuring different gemstones, Noor Fares

existent, clients really started making riskier purchases online.”

This goes some way to explaining the proliferation of online partnerships, with Net-a-Porter, Ounass and Moda Operandi marketing and styling merchandise in new, more casual or fashion-forward ways.

Ghaemi has also seen a change in the way customers shop as the world adapts to the new normal. She believes that in times of uncertainty we are more conscious about getting the finer things in life, and the one thing that remains certain is that jewellery will hold its value. “What was thought to be an almost only-inperson purchase, is now becoming more and more sought after online. It’s easy, convenient and you are able to see everything in the same place at once and in the comfort of your own home.”

Aquamarine crystal earrings, Noor Fares So as jewellery brands march forward into new realms, rethinking the code of the modern heirloom, Al-Ramadhan shares that her perspective on the new age of jewellers have been traditionally created. Apart fine jewellery is that the presumptions that it’s from tailoring unique experiences for clients in unaffordable and classic are no longer relevant. real life, communicating with clients online is also “Today, fine jewellery can be fun and playful, or a priority for fine jewellery brands. Despite initial formal and dressy, and cannot be confined to one apprehension that such high-priced items would category or style. It can be a piece you casually buy not perform positively online, fine jewellery has for yourself or a piece you have to save up for. Fine become one of the biggest growth categories for jewellery is whatever you want it to be, as long as it e-commerce players. “I always assumed that people makes you happy.” This is certainly an outlook that love to interact with jewellery and need to see it Choisne shares. “I don’t like the idea of creating before making such a purchase, especially for high- for one type of person or one generation. We don’t end items,” explains Al-Ramadhan. “But ever since want to put people in boxes, no matter what their the Coronavirus pandemic meant the availability age, their origins, their nationalities. For me, it’s of in-person shopping and travel became non- really about character, personality, and aspiration.”

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HEALTH & BEAUTY

The

Slow Down

Anxious about our weird new world? You’re not alone. Latest research favours ‘active’ therapies as a means to navigate the new normal, from time spent immersed in nature to simply letting loose on the dance floor. Speaking of stress, MOJEH investigates how to protect that all-important gut health from the unease of 2020, offers an edit of simple stress-busting steps to incorporate into your beauty regime, and unearths the spots where a retreat from the urban hustle awaits. Letting go – without limits – never felt so good Photographed by Christiane Baumgart

Less Talk, More Action Be it nature, art, dance, gardening or animals, these new forms of alternative therapy are leading the way as the perfect complements to traditional talking therapy, and for good reason Words by Naomi Chadderton

Be it the fall-out from the Covid-19 pandemic, the negative effects of our social-media obsessions or simply a lack of available support, it’s clear that more and more people are suffering from mental health issues. Close to 1 billion people are living with a mental health disorder, and in the Middle East particularly, there is still a taboo around therapy and admitting you are struggling. This stigma is one of the first barriers that prevent people from getting the help they need.

However, if you feel like talk therapy – be it psychotherapy or counselling – isn’t the best fit for your mental health, you’re not alone. The success of talk therapy varies from individual to individual and as such, a new wave of alternative ‘active’ therapies are entering the arena and have been gaining popularity in recent years – with many that involve no talking at all. Falling under the broad category of Complementary and Alternative Medicine (CAM), these forms of therapy tap into what talk therapy usually doesn’t: physicality. Think art, music, dance, gardening, or animal-assisted sessions. While they

The main concept of ecotherapy is to reconnect with nature through outdoor activities

“

Ecotherapy is a diverse set of activities that use nature and naturebased activities as a form of behavioural therapy.

Dr Laila Mahmoud

are not yet as evidence-supported as mental health treatments, studies have proven they can effectively be used to treat everything from anxiety to PTSD and chronic pain.

One of the most popular forms of CAM to emerge in recent years is ecotherapy, which, according to Dr Laila Mahmoud, specialist in psychiatry at Medcare Hospitals & Medical Centres, simply means, “A diverse set of activities that use nature and naturebased activities as a form of behavioural therapy. It is founded on how nature impacts mental health and psychological and emotional wellbeing.” The main concept of ecotherapy is to reconnect with nature through outdoor activities, gardens and animals, bringing the outdoors indoors to help alleviate anxious and depressive symptoms. “Nature spreads its beauty on the inside, encouraging positive selfperception and helping attract positive energy and happiness,” she adds. In fact, Kate Middleton is even a fan, and popularised a form of ecotherapy called forest bathing, based on the Japanese practice known as shinrin-yoku.

While simply taking yourself for a walk or indulging in an afternoon of gardening has proved to work wonders for mental health, Tracie Holroyd, a member of the British Association for Counselling and Psychotherapy, is flying the flag for equineassisted therapy, following the Eagala approach in which a mental health professional, qualified

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“

I believe ecotherapy is mandatory, and should go together with traditional therapy. Neither can substitute the other, but done hand-in-hand they can help offer a more complete treatment.

Dr Laila Mahmoud

equine specialist, and horses work together to help the client overcome the issues they have been struggling with. “Horses are prey animals and as such, are highly sensitive to their environment,” she says. “Some people respond well to traditional talk therapy, but may gain insight by doing this alongside talking. Add to that the unique sensitivity of horses providing non-judgmental feedback, and clients have reported that healing can happen much quicker by involving horses in the psychotherapy process than with traditional treatment modalities.”

Don’t worry if you’re not a seasoned horse rider either; clients don’t even have to like them as it doesn’t actually involve riding a horse. “Some models will work with owners and their horses, but Eagala programmes are usually based at stables, and clients will visit there,” she says.

If you can’t quite put into words how you’re feeling, don’t fret if animals aren’t your thing, as multiple studies have shown that expressive therapy, which simply involves using creative art such as drama, music or poetry, as a kind of therapy not only eases the symptoms of mental health issues but also anxiety and depression. Or, instead of talking it out, maybe you need to dance or draw it out, with studies about art therapy, for example,

supporting the idea that it can have an immediate stress-reducing effect.

Taking innovative therapies to a whole new level, Dubai-based Virtually Clinical aims to tackle mental health concerns in a unique way by introducing therapy which incorporates immersive technology and techniques to allow for faster change in a futuristic, innovative environment.

The platform, which is the first of its kind in the world, can be used to treat stress, eating disorders, OCD, anxiety and confidence issues by effectively virtually dropping the patient into immersive situations that are causing them stress and anxiety in a bid to help them tackle these head on. For example, social anxiety can be overcome by exposing the client to situations that require interaction with a group of people involving a variety of scenarios, such as being evaluated and judged by others. At all times, the client’s stress levels are monitored by using a GSR machine (galvanic skin response) to ensure they are safe and comfortable.

“This form of therapy is much less intimidating than talking face-to-face with a therapist,” explains founder and managing director Maria Tansey. “It is also great for younger generations who may find it

more difficult to connect with their therapist on a personal level. Using technology helps to make the sessions relevant to them. It can yield faster results as it activates all the senses and combines sounds, smells and visual props to help release blockages faster and overcome limiting beliefs to help convince the mind of the changes that have been made.”

Of course, we shouldn’t assume that all forms of alternative therapies are enough by themselves, especially if you might be dealing with specific mental health challenges. No matter what kind of therapy you’re considering, it may help to start with a talk therapist if only to start working out what you’re going through, and other approaches they’d recommend. “As a psychiatrist, I believe ecotherapy is mandatory, and should go together with traditional therapy,” explains Dr Mahmoud.

“Neither can substitute the other, but done hand-inhand they can help offer a more complete treatment.

It is a kind of readjustment of a lifestyle back to what feels normal, and helps us rebuild what urbanisation has taken from us, making us return to nature and change our unhealthy life habits to our native ways.” Afterall, with traditional therapy you’re typically only in it for an hour a week, so it’s vital to pay attention to all those other hours, too.

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Research suggests that we should avoid junk food, refined sugar, fried, oily and fatty produce where possible as they can increase inflammation which, when combined with stress, can lead to constipation, bloating and indigestion.

The Gut-Brain Connection Are you suffering from bloating, indigestion and a lack of appetite?

Chances are it’s your mind that’s to blame. MOJEH investigates…

There’s no arguing the fact this year isn’t quite panning out the way we planned, and as a result, more and more people are feeling down and depressed.

As the physical coronavirus pandemic continues to spread, an emotional pandemic is following fast in its wake, with anxieties about health, finances, job security and parenting rearing their ugly heads in even the calmest of individuals. Perhaps one of the more surprising results of this increase in stress is something we would normally put down to that second burger we ate at last night’s BBQ or the extra cup of coffee we had to perk ourselves up before this morning’s meeting – an unpredictable gut.

“It’s been proven beyond doubt that the state of mind affects one’s state of health,” explains Khadija A. Kapasi, Clinical Dietitian Trainer in the Ministry of Health in Kuwait. “Today, every doctor and healthcare professional is advising on the importance of emotional hygiene to handle stress levels.” She puts this down to cortisol, an immune suppressor which is produced in elevated levels during period of stress, which “creates inflammation, creates havoc with our digestive system, messes

up our sleep and eating habits, and a lot more.”

Many commonly experienced gut issues can stem from your head, with your stomach paying the price for an emotionally fraught day. If you’ve been suffering from indigestion or an upset stomach, have found yourself bloating more than normal or have been experiencing an increase or loss of appetite, there’s a very good chance it’s related to what’s known as the gut-brain axis, whereby negative emotions and stressful thoughts have a direct impact on the gut. “Since 80 per cent of our immunity lies in the gut, a weak gut can cause a drastic drop in immunity, making us prone to various diseases,” she adds.

With the brain and the gut in constant communication and the pandemic seemingly never ending, are we simply fighting a losing battle? The good news is that symptoms of acute stress can be temporary, and can even be banished by some simple life changes.

“If you think about a fight-or-flight scenario like running away from a lion, your heart and your blood pressure rises as the blood moves to the muscles needed to run,” explains Dr Shefali Verma, a Dubaibased functional medicine specialist. “During periods of acute stress, digestion can be arrested as blood moves to the muscles required to get out of the dangerous situation. As the stress passes, digestion should go back to normal.”

The problem is when stress is chronic, when the stressors remain constant and the fight-or-flight reaction stays turned on, over-exposing the body to

Supporting Supplements cortisol and other stress hormones. “This chronic stress is what leads to countless health issues, including suppressed immunity,” says Kapasi. It is therefore vital to manage our stress to prevent a total body meltdown and level off the gut-brain axis.

“Something I always advise my patients to do is ‘control the controllable’,” says Dr Verma, including how you eat, how you drink, detoxification pathways, how you move, how well you sleep and how you think.

This can be something as simple as taking time out to focus on deep breathing, which, while it won’t magically evaporate your stress, will help lower cortisol levels extensively, in turn sending a more relaxed message back to your gut. “I can’t emphasise enough the importance of breathing when it comes to managing stress and anxiety,” agrees Kapasi. “You can be in a room full of stressful people, but if you are even with your breathing pattern, you will hold a space of peace in you.”

Nicole Mack is a recovering aid worker and yoga teacher at Abu Dhabi’s Bodytree Studio who, since moving to the UAE, has relied heavily on the power of kundalini yoga to manage her stress levels and, in turn, her digestion. Unlike a typical yoga class, kundalini generally incorporates chanting or mantras, asanas (or movement), meditation and relaxation, and no two classes are the same.

“This practice is great for gut health because it strengthens the third chakra, or the naval point,” she explains. “By doing practices which strengthen our third chakra, we are simultaneously keeping our digestive organs strong, flexible and healthy, as well as giving ourselves the vitality to remain emotionally balanced.” An exercise she highly recommends is simply breathing through your left nostril to help lower your blood pressure, sleep better and prevent you from overeating. “Sit up with a straight spine and block the right nostril with the thumb of the right hand,” she says. “Keep the other fingers straight up like antennae. Take 26 long, deep, and complete breaths through the left nostril. Then inhale and relax. This will soothe you and bring you to a calm state.”

Yet, like all relationships, the stress-gut connection works both ways – yes, stress affects the gut but in turn, a suboptimal gut can also result in stress, and modern-day lifestyles including a diet full of

Nish Joshi’s numerous detox Invest in a Larq water bottle The Nue Co’s Gut Food works supplements work to reset and for fresh, purified water at the to fortify the immune system. restore your system touch of a button. Net-A-Porter Net-A-Porter

convenient processed foods and non-stop stress does not a happy stomach make. After all, Hippocrates did famously advise “Let food be thy medicine,” and when your gut bacteria are out of kilter, the negative toll on your health can be worrying, leading to chronic low mood, anxiety and panic attacks.

One way of tackling this imbalance head on is through pre- and probiotics, including both supplemented and natural in the form of a varied diet rich in fibre and colour, which promotes good bacteria. Avoid junk food, refined sugar, fried, oily and fatty produce where possible as these can increase inflammation, which, when combined with stress, can lead to constipation, bloating and indigestion. According to Kapasi, good quality dairy yoghurt, buttermilk, kimchi, pickles, fermented vegetables and fermented rice should be your go-to for probiotics, while apple cider vinegar, raw banana, garlic, onions and asparagus are all great sources of pre-biotics.

Be sure to make friends with fibre, too, as the microbes in your gut use dietary fibre as fuel to produce lots of positive substances that support gut health and control systemic inflammation in the body, including the brain. Avoid white, refined foods and opt for plenty of vibrant plant-based foods to keep gut microbes happy and healthy.

Everyone is responsible for their own body and how they treat it. Realising both the head and the gut work together is vital in finding that balance to ensure harmony between the two, promoting good health and a happy mind.

“About 80 per cent of our immune system lies in our gut and hence we mustn’t ignore this,” says Kapali. We’d be wise to start paying attention.

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Soothe Your Stress, Stat Be it curating your own personal nighttime ritual for a full eighthours’ sleep or investing in the latest revolutionary beauty products to help revive stressed skin, these simple stress-busting techniques, products and formulas promise to keep your anxiety levels under control quicker than you can say ‘sweet dreams’

Sleep Tight

Boost Your Mood

A good night’s sleep is a key component to any

Vitamin B is proven to help your body deal with anxiety and regulate

healthy lifestyle, but it doesn’t always come easy.

your mood, so if you have a particularly stressful day ahead of

With that in mind, Rituals has created a new range

you, it might be time to up your intake. Edge supplement is packed

inspired by the ancient Chinese concept of jing,

with a powerful portfolio of B vitamins designed

representing calmness, stillness and tranquillity.

to combat tiredness, while its high-strength

Incorporating essential oils such as lavender, sacred

herbal extracts, including Bacopa monnieri,

lotus, sacred wood and jujube, it comprises everything

are known for their memory improvement and

from sleepy teas, relaxing candles and tranquil

anxiety reduction properties. Pop two a day with

bath products. Just the ticket to a full eight hours.

food for the full effect. Available at Net-A-Porter

Switch Up Your Scent Our sense of smell plays a big part in our moods and emotions, so if you’re feeling uneasy, it could be time to switch up your scent. MOJEH recommends the newly opened Ooh La Lab. Nestled in Alserkal Avenue, this craft fragrance lab allows you to tinker with top, middle and base notes to create your own unique olfactory fragrance. Opt for vanilla for its calming properties, cardamom and creamy sandalwood to relieve stress, and lavender to help you drift off into a dreamy deep sleep.

Rock ‘n’ Roll While it’s well documented that incorporating a facial massage tool into your regular beauty routine might just be the fasttrack to flawless skin, less is said on its stress-busting benefits.

Yet we massage our bodies when feeling stressed, so why not our faces? Designed to alleviate tension in overworked jaw muscles, this Solaris Laboratories facial roller substitutes rose quartz for amethyst, known for calming the mind and blocking negative energy (available at Ounass). Team it with Dior Prestige La Micro-Huile De Rose Advanced Serum – a potent and relaxing pre-serum making waves for its anti-ageing effects.

De-stress Your Skin Four weeks and four bottles – Sisley promises that’s all it takes to bring stressed-out skin back to life. Designed to capitalise on the skin’s renewal cycle of approximately 28 days, the new Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Âge La Cure at-home four-week system utilises concentrated botanical extracts including ginko biloba, peony, centella, yeast protein and mariposa blanca rhizome to activate the cellular processes that keep our skin looking young, smoother and refreshed. In other words, it’s ten hours of uninterrupted sleep and a juice cleanse in a bottle. MOJEH spoke to Christine D’Ornano, Sisley’s global vice president and daughter of the brand’s late founder, about its miracle-working properties: How does stress and lifestyle affect the skin?

It’s actually been proven that behavioural ageing marks the face even more than genetic ageing – you could say that it is responsible for the majority of ageing overall! The pace of life, the stress it causes, its hardships and the lifestyle choices we

using Sisleÿa La Cure when the first signs of ageing appear.

make all cause us to age faster, especially when combined with

How important is the application itself? The best way to apply

previously identified environmental factors such as UVA-UVB

La Cure is before any other product on thoroughly cleansed skin. It

rays, pollution and free radicals.

provides unequalled comfort for all skin types. But for women looking

Why La Cure? La Cure is perfect for any woman who wants

for even greater comfort, it’s possible to apply their daily skincare on

to boost the lifecycle of her cells, especially those whose busy

top of La Cure. To see the best results, we recommend using eight

lifestyle and stress are causing their skin to age prematurely. From

pumps of product for each application for four weeks without any

the age of 25, cellular renewal and skin self-regeneration slow

break. La Cure is accompanied by a specific tailormade technique

down progressively, and an intensely demanding lifestyle, stressful

that should be repeated morning and night at home throughout

personal and professional life, lack of sleep and poor nutrition

the four weeks to optimise its effects. Its texture is particularly

can accentuate these phenomena. We therefore recommend

suitable for massage, to provide the skin with special wellbeing.

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The Reset Whether you have an afternoon or an entire weekend to spare, seek solace in MOJEH’s edit of the spas to visit and the urban retreats to check in to. Afterall, self-care is where wellness begins

The Rainforest Experience: Al Wadi Desert, Ras Al Khaimah

Mykonos-Style: Amara Spa, Park Hyatt Dubai

Juxtaposing heat and cold has long been proven to help

Nestled among the whitewashed walls, bougainvillea

overall wellbeing, with experts praising the benefits of

trellises and azure tiled courtyards of the Park Hyatt

utilising extreme temperatures with the goal of achieving

Dubai, the Amara Spa is a Mediterranean-inspired

numerous beauty benefits. This is the science behind the

haven hidden within the city. Inside the spa, you’ll find

Rainforest Experience at Ritz-Carlton’s Al Wadi Desert

private treatment rooms that boast outdoor courtyards,

retreat, where European hydrothermal culture is combined

rain showers and a soothing playlist, as well as a lush

with Middle Eastern bathing rituals to create a healing

tranquillity garden with day beds to sink into post-

water oasis. Be it a 60-, 120- or 180-minute journey, guests

massage (with herbal tea in-hand). The treatments are

make their way through 16 different stations, including

in sync with the luxury wellness facilities you’d find in

two high-temperature aroma steam stations designed to

Mykonos: a Detox Package to recharge and rejuvenate,

detoxify the body, an invigorating bucket drench shower

a Body Polish for smoother, glowing skin, a Holistic

to close pores and improve skin tone, and a refreshing ice

Ceremony to connect the mind and body, and a rhythmic

igloo that addresses those stubborn cellulite-prone areas.

Signature Massage (infused with frankincense, amber

The experience culminates with a spell in the spa’s vitality

and sandalwood) for those in need of some TLC. With

pool, which uses water jets to treat stress, soothe tense

journeys that include access to the palm-lined pool and

muscles and improve blood circulation. We’re calling this

lagoon (with its cerulean waters and sugar-white sand),

the most luxuriant way to while away a few hours, ensuring

the Amara Spa is a must for those in need of a fleeting

you float the whole way back to your room. Ritzcarlton.com

escape to the Greek isles. Hyatt.com

Model: Julia Kunkel at Model Werk | Hair & Make-up artist: Kim Angermann | Stylists: Shima Khazei & Nicole Reitbauer

Soothing Sands: Qua Spa, Caesars Bluewater, Dubai Ever considered lying on a bed of hot sand as a means to while away your woes? Based on the hot sand therapy originally adopted in Ancient Egypt to treat medical ailments, Qua Spa has tasked a lavish Psammo Concept Quartz Bed with creating a truly special relaxation journey. Integrating the multiple benefits of sand therapy, aromatherapy, inversion therapy and wave-like massage, invest in a 90-minute full-body massage atop the silky-smooth sand in which a therapist stretches limbs and focuses on common pressure points to relax the body. Meanwhile, the sand beneath envelops you in a warm, relaxing cocoon, stimulating muscle relaxation, blood circulation and most importantly, mental relaxation (or so the Ancient Egyptians say). Post-treatment, make your way through Caesars’ minimally designed passageways (think towering slate-grey walls gently lit by candlelight) to the relaxation area where the physical and mental unwinding continues. Caesars.com/dubai/qua-spa

When In London: St Pancras Spa, St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, UK Situated in the former steam kitchens of the lavish Renaissance Hotel, if you’re feeling rundown or anxious, this boutique cocooning retreat is the perfect place to bring you back to life. Focusing on the face, scalp, back, legs, neck and shoulders, opt for the We De-Stress treatment. Part facial/ part massage, the therapist is silent as she works, save for a whisper when she instructs you to breathe in your choice of calming Aromatherapy Associates oils. Her work on the body is magic – at times she’ll stretch tired limbs, at other times she’ll slowly massage with long strokes and pressurepoint stimulation. And trust us, it works. Post-massage, save some time to enjoy the spa’s stunning swimming pool, which is bedecked in Victorian tiles and bordered by a eucalyptus steam room and sauna. There’s also a peacock-themed relaxation room to kick back in, which has pots of herbal tea on standby. What more could you want? stpancras-spa.com

120 For a lengthier break-away from the stress of city life, look to either an urban or beachside retreat that melds nature with nurture and everything in between…

The Oberoi, Ajman is an architectural masterpiece, designed with disconnect and serenity in mind

The Oberoi Beach Resort, Al Zorah, UAE While the UAE homes a whole host of enviably luxurious hotels,

and restaurant areas. In pursuit of true relaxation, book into the

few, if any, boast uninterrupted views of the Arabian Gulf, with

spa where treatment rooms with open-air showers and private

lavish private villas carefully dotted across the waterfront and

hammams are nestled within a labyrinth of open-air corridors

refreshingly minimalist architecture. Just a stone’s throw from

accented by the gentle sounds of nature. Start your day with

Dubai’s main airport – which makes it the preferred destination for

oat- or coconut-milk cappuccinos; avocado on toast or overnight-

Europe’s elite during the winter months – and nestled behind the

soaked oats; and fresh juices using ingredients plucked straight

spectacularly green Al Zorah Golf Club in Ajman, is the Oberoi,

from the chef’s organic garden. And then end it at seafood

almost certainly one of the UAE’s most serene spaces.

restaurant Aquario. The candlelit terrace (complete with the

Designed by famous Lissoni & Partners architects from Milan, the

sound of lapping ocean) is a relaxing setting for speciality seafood,

Oberoi has been thoughtfully designed with optimal seclusion and

refreshing drinks and Italian desserts that are almost worth the

privacy in mind. The predominantly cream (think towering walls

calorie intake.

and clean structures), azure (large, angular ponds of water are

That said, the one-, two- or three-bedroom villas situated within the

littered across the grounds), and leaf-green property sprawls out

grounds’ lower tiers are the crème de la crème of luxury. Individual

across different tiers and overlooks a beautifully manicured beach

structures are designed in such a manner that the light and views

(replete with stellar sunset views). If you will, ground yourself in

are plentiful, but privacy is maintained. Expect a private pool,

the midst of its pristinely kept gardens for just a second, take a

oversized lounge areas and modern bathrooms comprising free-

deep breath, and stare out towards the shimmering sea. Stress-

standing bathtubs and rain showers. Step out the front door and

busting, exactly as nature intended.

it’s just a short wander through palm-tree-lined geometric garden

For those residing in the main property, endless views of the sea

paths to reach the beach, eateries or spa. We’re told that villa

are punctuated by the serene sight of the UAE’s longest pool

guests tend to book for a month and stay for two, hooked on the

and magnificently sized water features that border the lobby

energy that the break away from city life offers. Oberoihotels.com

Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London London is renowned for its time-honoured luxury hotels, but if you’re looking for a wellness break that combines contemporary flair with impeccable service for a weekend of holistic healing, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park has it all, with an exquisitely slick spa to boot.

Nestled in the heart of the super-elite Knightsbridge district, bordered

by Harrods, Hyde Park and Buckingham Palace, this 1889 Edwardian masterpiece recently underwent an extensive multi-million-pound restoration, with internationally renowned designer Joyce Wang

Flit between a lavish suite and the hotel’s award-winning spa for a weekend of relaxation

working her magic on its 141 spacious guest rooms and 40 lavish suites. While the crème de la crème has to be the Mandarin Oriental Penthouse – a new three-bedroom, three-bathroom hideaway with its own dining room, two kitchens and sprawling terraces boasting serene park vistas – checking into any of the rooms is a treat for all the senses.

Calming colours adorn the walls that come splashed with silver and etched glass, while the all-white marble bathrooms feature a separate shower and bathtub ideal for an early-night soak. The cloudlike bed will allow you to drift into an unencumbered slumber, where the only thing to wake up for is breakfast in bed. And while the menu leaves no dish unturned, the Healthy Breakfast comprising Dragonwell green tea, a Pink Detox juice (carrot, apple and ginger), courgetti, carrot and chia seed muffins, seeded multigrain toast with avocado purée and sugar-free preservatives, fresh fruits, Bircher muesli and egg white omelette allows for all the taste of the traditional English breakfast but with none of the guilt. There are yoga mats for private practice too, should you wish to get a stretch in before heading to the spa.

Reopened in May 2018 following an extensive redesign by New York designer Adam D. Tihany, The Spa at Mandarin Oriental is an oasis of tranquillity where all your stresses come to melt away.

Nestled in the depths of the building, this majestic den of wellness is a world away from the hustle and bustle of buzzy Knightsbridge, taking its cues from traditional Chinese symbolism with relaxation in mind at every turn. Common and lounge areas are unified by the soothing sounds of trickling water, while its calming neutral palette

For those looking to indulge with an exquisite fine-dining meal,

of glossy caramel and earthy tones is the perfect antidote to soften

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is the place to be. A joint venture with

those tense shoulders. Going well beyond fluffy facials and light

The Fat Duck Group, the two-Michelin-star restaurant is a London

pampering, the spa provides treatments that tackle physical and

institution and an experience not to be missed. If the weather suits,

mental wellbeing, and if you’re looking to escape your stresses for an

take a seat on the expansive terrace and take in uninterrupted

hour, the 60-minute aromatherapy massage uses a melting pot of

views of Hyde Park while perusing a menu that is heavily influenced

essential oils for everything from relaxation to mood enhancement,

by Blumenthal’s ongoing research and discovery of historic British

and will leave you feeling light as air. The spa also houses a Rasul

gastronomy. Featuring recipes dating as far back as the 14th century,

water temple that combines the health-enhancing properties of heat,

kick off your gastronomic tour with the renowned ‘meat fruit’ of

steam and mud for a complete relaxing skin conditioning treatment,

mandarin, chicken liver parfait and grilled bread, followed by a fillet

as well a Chinese medicine consultation and treatment room plus

of Hereford beef with mushroom ketchup, chips and steak sauce.

heat and water oasis including a sauna, amethyst crystal steam room,

For those looking to continue their healthy streak, there’s also roast

vitality pool and zen colour therapy relaxation area.

cauliflower with truffle on the menu, but be sure to save room for

A 360-degree holistic haven, there’s also a wellbeing and fitness

dessert – the tipsy cake made with spit-roast pineapple and served

centre with 24-hour state-of-the-art fitness technology for those

with Jersey cream is a sure-fire treat for the taste buds.

looking to get active during their stay, as well as a Pilates PT Studio

Gracious, elegant and as upscale as they come, Mandarin Oriental

set up by award-winning founder Hollie Grant, and offering a menu

Hyde Park London has everything one needs for an exquisite break in the

of holistic and bespoke HIIT training and Pilates. Be sure to do a

British capital – lavish rooms, exquisite dining, unparalleled service and,

few laps of the indoor 17-metre twin-lane stainless-steel heated pool

of course, one of the most luxurious places to be pampered in the city.

before you drift magically out the doors back into the real world.

Mandarinoriental.com/london/hyde-park/luxury-hotel

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Photographed by Raissa Bisscotti, MOJEH 71

MOJEH HEALTH

Balancing Act As menopause becomes less of a taboo and more of a talking point, treatments to alleviate the sometimes crippling symptoms continue to evolve. MOJEH investigates why bio-identical therapy could be the answer Words by Doctor Habib Sadeghi

T

he biggest misconception about menopause is that women are in it for years. Actually, menopause only refers to a woman’s last menstrual cycle or period. In Greek, it means meno (month) and pausis (to cease). The average age of menopause for women is 51, after which time their ovulation cycle stops and they are considered postmenopausal.

It’s typically the five- to 10-year period leading up to menopause that causes most discomfort. It’s known as the perimenopausal period, during which women experience varying degrees of a host of symptoms that include hot flushes, insomnia, mood swings, memory loss, depression, night sweats, loss of libido, joint pain, dry skin, fatigue, rapid heartbeat, frequent urination, concentration problems, and weight gain. The severity of these symptoms often depends on a woman’s biological make up and the type of introduction she’s had into perimenopause. heavily metabolized by the body, they raise insulin levels.

A healthy woman’s symptoms usually begin in her Real progesterone doesn’t have a long half-life. The 40s and progress naturally, which may or may not pharmaceutical companies needed something that lasted require hormone therapy (HT). Women with chronicmuch longer, so they created medroxyprogesterone acetate or auto-immune disease and sometimes those who (MPA), also known as progestin. It was created at the same over-exercise can arrive at perimenopause as early as time as the birth control pill because in low, regular doses their mid-30s, resulting in a more intense experience it prevents ovulation. that often requires HT to ease the symptoms. About While estrogen has been shown to protect women against one per cent of women reach menopause before the age heart disease, synthetic progesterone or progestin, sold of 40. Abrupt entries into menopause either through under the brand name Provera, largely cancels out that chemotherapy, radiation or hysterectomy always cause benefit. Based on analysis of the Women’s Health Initiative severe symptoms that require HT. (WHI) study, women on a combination dose of Premarin and Provera (Prempro) did show an increase in myocardial infarctions and deaths from coronary artery disease and Conventional Hormone Options blood clots in the first two years on HT. Because Premarin, the most common form of conventional oestrogen, is made from the urine of Methyltestosterone is a completely synthetic form of pregnant horses it can be problematic when introduced testosterone and has been around for nearly 50 years. As into the human body. Breaking it down, Premarin is an anabolic steroid, it’s the most common type used by estrone sulfate (>50%), equilin (15-25%) and equilenin. bodybuilders. It has a low bio-availability and is widely These conjugated estrogens are called as such because known for upsetting cholesterol levels and damaging the they are not in the true molecular form as a woman’s liver. Aside from these more serious issues, all conjugated own estrogen. Because of this, there is some concern (conventional) and synthetic hormones come with a host of over the equine (horse) estrogens in Premarin, side effects because they are not immediately recognised particularly equilin and equilenin and how the body by the body, and their byproducts will elicit an adverse metabolizes them. response of some kind.

Research published in The Proceedings of the Society for Experimental Biology and Medicine, and Chemical Bio-Identical Hormone Options Bio-identical hormones are called as such because they Research and Toxicology shows that the body breaks these foreign hormones down into metabolites that are identical in molecular structure to the oestrogen, have an even stronger estrogenic effect than the horse progesterone and testosterone found in the human estrogens themselves. They create DNA damage in body. They are the exact same hormones the body uses, making their bio-availability very high and side effects tissue that has been shown to be carcinogenic. This could very well be the reason why studies show virtually non-existent. ‘Identical’ means they are an exact a very small increase in cancer risk in women on match, unlike the label of ‘natural’, which can be used to include many substances that might be from nature conventional HT. It should also be noted that because but are foreign to the human body. most prescription drugs like Premarin need to be

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Plants have hormonal properties just like humans, and in the 1930s, it was discovered that a plant steroid, diosgenin, found in yams could easily be converted into an exact match for human progesterone using only heat and pressure, no chemicals. Bio-identical testosterone also comes from yams.

In the same way, bio-identical oestrogen is derived from soybeans. After the conversion process, none of the phyto (plant-based) oestrogen properties remain in place. At this point, it’s not similar to human oestrogen; it’s identical. The plant-based oestrogen structure no longer exists.

Myth Busting Bio-identical hormones are the exact substances that the body creates, so, unlike conventional hormones, they cannot be patented. Because of this, pharmaceutical companies can’t make any money from them. That’s why all the large longitudinal studies have always focused on It’s also common for detractors to point out that synthetic and conventional hormones like Premarin and the American Medical Association (AMA) doesn’t Prempro. It’s also the reason why drug companies like endorse bio-identical hormones because of a lack of to spread misinformation about bio-identical hormones. research. That’s because nearly all research studies The biggest misconception they perpetuate is that are paid for by the pharmaceutical corporations bio-identical hormones are not regulated by the Food that want to promote their products. Who’s going and Drug Administration (FDA). Regulation simply to fund a national study on bio-identical hormones means that the FDA guarantees their purity and that can’t be patented and no one can profit from? efficacy and standardises the dosages. Bio-identical hormones are not FDA regulated because they come Fortunately, we have over 40 years of women who have taken bio-identical hormones without a problem. In in individualised, not standardised dosages, which addition to decades of anecdotal success, two independent maximises their effectiveness. It is important to studies on bio-identical hormones are bearing out what understand, however, that all bio-identical hormone we’ve always known. ingredients are FDA approved for use. Bio-identical hormones are also provided by compounding pharmacies that follow the same state regulations Reassuring Results A study by the Keck School of Medicine at the as any other pharmacy. In addition to those safety University of Southern California (USC) discovered measures, the Pharmacy Compounding Accreditation that bio-identical estradiol slowed the progression of Board (PCAB) applies an additional set of stringent atherosclerosis (hardening of the arteries) in women, standards that compounding pharmacies must meet. particularly for those in the early stages of menopause.

Supporters of conjugated and synthetic hormones Older women who were further past menopause, while like to claim that because bio-identical hormone experiencing no negative effects, did not receive the same prescriptions are formulated by hand, the levels of benefit. This seems to fit with other findings that show ingredients aren’t consistent from one prescription women receive protection against cardiovascular and other to another, altering their effectiveness. They liken diseases from HT the earlier they begin. Hormones are compounding to cooking, putting in a pinch of this about timing. and a dash of that with no real measurement of any ingredient. This is absurd. With a doctor’s order, a The Kronos Longevity Research Institute in Phoenix, compounding pharmacist, using industry-approved AZ conducted a study to discover whether conjugated measuring instruments, is able to raise or lower the or bio-identical oestrogen decreased the risk of heart amount of individual hormones to give a woman the disease in women if started within a few years after ideal combination that works uniquely for her. This menopause. The results, published in 2012, showed that neither Premarin nor bio-estradiol had any negative frees women from being locked into standardised effects on blood pressure. doses that may either be too much or too little to be Premarin did increase HDL (‘good’ cholesterol) and appropriately effective. With hormones, very small lowered LDL (‘bad’ cholesterol), but also increased amounts make very big differences and accuracy triglycerides (a type of fat that affects the heart requires flexibility in dosing.

Photographed by Raissa Bisscotti, MOJEH 71

if its concentration in the blood is too high). Bioidentical estradiol had no positive or negative effects on cholesterol, but it did improve insulin sensitivity (reduced insulin resistance). At these doses, neither Premarin nor bio-identical estradiol had any impact on atherosclerosis. Both relieved menopause symptoms and increased bone density while neither group experienced any major health crisis during the study.

It comes as no surprise that during the tests, bioidentical estradiol had no negative effects. In addition to relieving menopause symptoms and increasing bone density, it improved insulin sensitivity. This means that it’s protecting women against all the diseases that are connected to insulin resistance, including type 2 diabetes.

Honouring Life Women have been taking both conventional and bioidentical hormones for nearly half a century now without a major health crisis. This is what we know for sure: women starting HT earlier, within five years of menopause, receive the greatest benefits and disease protection, while HT should never be started for the first time after the age of 60. That’s when real problems occur. Women with a uterus taking oestrogen must also take progesterone to prevent thickening of the uterine lining. Tests also repeatedly show small but viable risks for cardiovascular disease and cancer when using conventional oestrogen (Premarin), especially in conjunction with synthetic progestin (Provera/ Prempro). Because bio-identical hormones have shown no detrimental health effects whatsoever in testing or over the last 50 years, it’s no surprise that I recommend them to my patients when needed. Besides, what could be a better replacement for your own hormones than your own hormones?

Hormones have a variety of delivery systems including capsules, sublingual pills, patches, creams and gels. Each woman will have her preference based on how they work for her. Bio-identical progesterone must be taken orally because it’s not absorbed well by transdermal methods.

When you begin, and how long you’re on, HT is between you and your doctor. My recommendation is that levels remain light, just enough to alleviate symptoms. The goal isn’t to return to the energy level of your twenties.

We must honour the natural progression of life, while at the same time using the tools we have to give us the best quality of life at the time of life we’re already in.

For more health insights from Dr. Sadeghi, please visit beingclarity.com.

“

What could be a better replacement for your own hormones than your own hormones?

Doctor Habib Sadeghi

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High & Dry Opt for generous portions of highshine gloss across the lips and lids or pare it back with matte pigment in rich reds – either way, the result is something quite hypnotic Photography by Mann Make-up by Toni Malt

Lips: Rouge Allure Ink Fusion in 836 Idyllique | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 364 Candeur Et Séduction and Stylo Yeux Waterproof in 955 Romance | Skin: Baume Essentiel Rosée, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Lips: Rouge Allure Ink Fusion 836 Idyllique | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres 364 Candeur Et Séduction and Stylo Yeux Waterproof 955 Romance, CHANEL BEAUTY

Lips: Rouge Coco Flash in 132 Flushed | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 364 Candeur Et Séduction and Stylo Yeux Waterproof in 955 Romance | Skin: Baume Essentiel Rosée, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 364 Candeur Et Séduction and Stylo Yeux Waterproof in 955 Romance | Skin: Baume Essentiel Rosée, CHANEL BEAUTY

Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 364 Candeur Et Séduction and Stylo Yeux Waterproof in 955 Romance, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Nails: Le Vernis 765 Interdit, CHANEL BEAUTY | Jewellery: Coco Crush Quilted Motif rings in small version yellow gold with diamonds, mini version in yellow gold, medium version in white gold with diamonds and small version in beige gold, CHANEL Fine Jewelry

Skin: Baume Essentiel Rosée, CHANEL BEAUTY

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Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 364 Candeur Et Séduction and Stylo Yeux Waterproof in 955 Romance | Lips: Rouge Coco in 494 Attraction | Skin: Baume Essentiel Rosée, CHANEL BEAUTY

Lips: Rouge Allure Ink Fusion in 836 Idyllique | Eyes: Les 4 Ombres in 364 Candeur Et Séduction and Stylo Yeux Waterproof in 955 Romance | Skin: Baume Essentiel Rosée, CHANEL BEAUTY Photographer: Mann at Things by People | Makeup artist: Toni Malt at Things by People | Model: Lera at Art Factory Management | Hair: Jordan Robertson | Creative direction: Kate Hazell | Studio: Stellar Studios Dubai

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LIFE & STYLE

My Stylish Life, Valérie Messika The jewellery designer’s country retreat in Normandy, France is a refined play of rustic comforts and artistic endeavours. Usually a space for disconnect and recharge, the 150-year-old home has instead played host to Valérie’s studio for 2020 Words by Lucy Wildman Photography by Xavier Béjot

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here are few among us who, if we’d had the chance, wouldn’t have wanted to spend the recent lockdown holed up at Valérie Messika’s French country retreat.

Located deep in the woodlands of Normandy, the founder and creative director of luxury jeweller Messika Paris says this was the only place she could imagine hibernating during the global retreat.

“My father bought this house when I was a teenager,” reveals the jeweller as she speaks to MOJEH from the garden of her beautiful family home. “We didn’t know anything about the property’s previous owners, but we do know that the house is around 150 years old. When my father bought it, around 40 years ago, the exterior was completely covered in paint, which had been absorbed into the stones. The first thing he did was remove the paint to free the stones in order to give the house its soul back.”

Giving stones soul – be they the ones that cover her beloved country home, or those that became the focus of her career – is something the Messika family were born to do. Renovated in 2015 by Valérie and her friend and colleague, Sophie Reulet, the pair made some big aesthetic changes to the property at the beginning of the project. “It was truly a ‘four hands’ job,” laughs Valérie. “Sophie is a fabulous artist and a creative genius, so she really helped me shape what I had imagined.”

Valérie Messika’s country retreat is located in the woodlands of Normandy

Despite its undeniable raw beauty, Valérie knew her plans would make the property shine even brighter. “There were red shutters and clay tiles all over the house,” she explains.

“We wanted to create something far simpler, and more elegant, so we painted the walls in calm, neutral colours, and the wooden features black.” She also decided to replace the existing windows to bring more light into the building.

“Light is a real obsession for me,” says the designer. “I think it came from my childhood. I used to look at my dad searching for light to look into diamonds, because in all diamonds, you have so many varied reflections of light. So light took centre stage in the design process of the house.” Installing huge windows on every floor, Valérie imagined them more as picture frames than traditional window frames. “With the

view of the outside, I have the sensation to see ‘photos’ of the beautiful landscapes on every wall, which of course, changes according to the weather or the perspective. I love this element of the house.”

Surrounded by sprawling gardens and woodland, the Messika country home is Valérie’s favoured bolthole when her busy schedule allows her to take some much-needed time off, and was the obvious choice of where she and her family would stay during the Covid-19 enforced lockdown.

“When we were renovating, I wanted this house to be very comfortable and not too precious – the perfect place to live with children for a few weeks,” recalls the designer. “But this is the first time we’ve actually been here for such an extended period, because ordinarily we only ever come for weekends or holidays. It’s been a really grounding experience for us to spend so much time here.”

Oozing period charm and offering a vast amount of living space, Valérie’s innate laidback style is evident throughout the house. “I really love creating a minimalist space that is modern, pure and contemporary, with a touch of colour and art,” she says. “Although I don’t have one specific, preferred interiors style, the atmosphere here is warm, with a mix of ancient and modern pieces throughout.” With soft cream, white or grey walls, simple wooden floors and those vast picture-frame windows looking out onto lush gardens and a lake with woodland beyond, the air of calm and elegance is palpable. “I am particularly sensitive with decoration and design. Since I was a child, my father raised my awareness

Upon purchase, the exterior’s natural stone was one of its first elements to be restored

138 for art and has taught me to recognise beautiful artistic pieces,” says Valérie of the inspiration behind the interior aesthetics. “For me, every decoration project has a history. I like to make moodboards to organise and create atmospheres, define colours and furniture. A little like Messika, each piece you’ll find in this house offers a form of modernity, but also a certain timelessness. They all represent something that lasts, and that has to last. But I didn’t want the interior design and furnishings here to be overly precious. The house has been designed to live in, just like my jewellery.”

Citing her favourite piece of furniture as the custom-made oak and metal table in the living room, Valérie admits buying pieces for her homes is a never-ending process. “I am constantly on the lookout for things!” she laughs. “I love to bargain hunt at the Saint Ouen flea market in Paris on Sundays. And since I travel a lot, if I have some free time when I’m abroad I like to shop for the house, because I always like to buy something unique to the country’s culture. Last time I was in Dubai, I bought a book about its architecture. I love collecting things that remind me of places – that’s really special to me.”

With artworks passed down by her father that include a stunning collection of African masks in the TV room, and some historic sculptures in the living room, while Valérie loves buying pieces from art fairs such as Miami and Basel, her most treasured piece is far more personal. “I have a portrait of the sculptor César Baldaccini in my bedroom, created by my dear friend Sophie,” she smiles. “I love César, and have so much respect for his talent as an artist. Sophie managed

“The house has been designed to live in, just like my jewellery” – Valérie Messika

With views of the forest, Valérie’s private bathroom is her sanctuary

to give him such realistic facial expressions, so we can really, truly feel him. But it’s not just the aesthetic that I love. It’s special to me because it has such strong sentimental value.”

As far as her favourite room in the house goes, despite spending most of her time in the multipurpose living room or in the garden with her family, Valérie’s private bathroom is her sanctuary. “I just always feel so relaxed and comfortable in there,” she laughs. “Each of the walls has a window, so I really feel like I am outside, but I’m indoors. We’re lucky enough to be hidden in the middle of an incredible natural landscape. During spring, the fields have the most amazing colours, and it’s a joy to take a bath and enjoy the beauty of our surroundings as you soak in the tub.” But it’s not just the view that Valérie adores. “I also love the décor in there; it’s a contrast between ancient and modern style. I have painted an outline of gold around the windows to match my favourite gold mirror, which is an original piece from the house.”

Having spent so much time in the house during the coronavirus pandemic, while Valérie doesn’t usually work when she’s there, recent weeks have allowed the designer to be inspired by her surroundings. “I don’t generally work here, because this is where I come to disconnect and recharge my batteries. Saying that, sometimes the best ideas and inspirations come from being relaxed!” she laughs. “Above all, this house represents time with the family and putting life on pause. You wake up on Saturday mornings with the chickens and the peacocks. My daughters are six and four, and everything becomes magical when seen through their eyes. I usually design jewellery when I’m on the move, but when I’m here, I allow myself to switch off, and open up to new ideas. You could say being here inspires me naturally – nothing is forced.”

“

We’re lucky enough to be hidden in the middle of an incredible natural landscape.

During spring, the fields have the most amazing colours.

Designer Valérie Messika

“Light is a real obsession for me,” claims the designer

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CULTURE EDIT

THE HORSE, THE SALUKI & THE FALCON For her latest publication, Emirati author Sheikha Salama Bint Hazza Al Nahyan, was inspired by three animals deeply connected to her homeland and heritage. Entitled The Horse, The Saluki & The Falcon, the book features thought-provoking quotes and illustrations that share wisdom, positivity and hope at a time when it is needed most. Here, MOJEH speaks to the acclaimed writer.

Can you tell us about your latest book and the concept behind it?

The book is inspired by Charlie Mackesy’s The Boy, The Mole, The Fox and The Horse, and features quotes on life, humanity and empathy, told through the UAE’s most treasured animals. Each animal featured was chosen based on its characteristics that resemble those of humans. For example, the horse represents beauty and power; the Saluki symbolises intelligence, speed and loyalty; and the falcon signifies alertness and an attentive tactical prey. The book explores the messages animals would relay if they could speak to humans.

In what ways does The Horse, The Saluki & The Falcon pay homage to your Emirati culture? I noticed that there aren’t many children’s books that are rooted in Emirati heritage, which was why I was adamant on creating a story that was not only educational, but also traditional. These three animals have helped our ancestors to survive, and falcon hunting and saluki racing is still relevant today. It reminds us that surviving such a harsh environment was only possible because of these species. The book shares life lessons on humility, love and kindness — why are these messages so important? Silver linings in times of uncertainty are very important. There’s something good to be found in every difficult situation. A positive quote that resonates with a person could change everything in an instant. It could change their whole mindset and open doors they thought never existed. Hope and positivity are both very powerful tools for the human mind. The girl in the book is like that little voice within us questioning certain events and why they’re happening; the animals are there to remind her to be brave, to hope and to dream. What do Olga Byrne’s illustrations bring to the book? Illustration adds life to any story. It gives your mind a chance to wander and picture what each character looks like. Olga’s work, ethics and vision mixed very well with my project. We bonded quickly and she instantly understood the type of art I was looking for. We aimed to add a lot of emotion with the visuals and focused on making the words flow with the images; even at times letting the images speak louder than the words themselves. As a writer in her twenties, what advice would you give to young aspiring writers? Never give up. Writing is a challenging process in itself, which sometimes needs months or even years to finish a specific piece. To start your literary journey, you need to have consistency and drive so that you can become like to share from your new title? “Do dreams come true?” asked the girl. “They only do if you believe in them long enough,” answered the horse. This quote reminds me that nothing is impossible. Keep dreaming, keep doing because it can and will happen someday. Failure just means that you tried, it doesn’t mean that it’s impossible to achieve.

Words: Jenna Calvert | Imagery: supplied

a successful writer. Finally, an inspirational quote you’d

THE INTERIORS Months in lockdown reignited our love affair with interior design. For fall, give your abode a refresh with rustic ceramics, rattan furniture and cosy cashmeres in earthy tones of beige, terracotta and olive

CONSCIOUS CRIB Bringing the essence of Bali to Dubai, Wood Culture’s latest collection comprises statement furnishings crafted from sustainable and stylish cane. A durable material made from bamboo sticks or the bark of rattan trees, cane has an organic, bohemian feel when weaved into statement chairs, unique wardrobes and ’70s-esque drinks cabinets. Place a cane piece upon a sun-soaked terrace and it elevate it with plush textiles and towering plants. Woodculture.ae

RUSTIC ROMANTICISM Chapter 101 may be known for its sculptural designs rooted in Middle Eastern culture, but for the Dubai-based interior brand’s range of rustic vases, founder Shima Sameai was drawn to the lyrical landscapes of Les Baux-de-Provence. Collaborating with French ceramicists and artisans, Sameai channels rugged Provençal charm into beautifully imperfect pieces that boast unusual textures and unexpected shapes. Add a bouquet of dried blooms to a dark burgundy vase, and voila! Chapter-101.com

FINISHING TOUCHES Complete a rustic-chic room with free-form pottery and a coffee table tome that travels into the cinematic dunes of Arabia

HKLIVING at Urban Nest

HKLIVING at Urban Nest

TAKE ME TO TUSCANY Mirroring the luxe materials and the laid-back mood of Brunello Cucinelli’s AW20 ready-to-wear collection, the Italian brand’s latest home decor line has a relaxed, yet refined aesthetic for autumn. Silk knit throws, soft-as-butter cashmeres and lustrous leather cushions sit alongside scented candles in handcrafted ceramic vessels and classic board games revived with a modern twist, evoking the warmth and elegance of a Tuscan villa. Brunellocucinelli.com

ALULA by Assouline

ANISSA KERMICHE at Farfetch

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THE EXHIBITIONS As the UAE’s art scene comes back to life, MOJEH highlights the exhibitions to pencil into your diary this October. From colourpopping paintings created in isolation to emotive works by Lebanese artists

RECESSES BY CHAFA GHADDAR Tashkeel Gallery’s autumn programme begins with Chafa Ghaddar’s first solo exhibition in the UAE. Showcasing the Lebanese artist’s year-long experimentation with touch, colour and texture, the exhibit is inspired by the ancient mural-making technique of fresco. “In Recesses, I explore the paradox of a medium that can be timeless and vulnerable, combining it with other techniques to process the idea of fragmentation,” says Ghaddar. Until 25 October; Tashkeel.org

MEMORY DRUM BY MOHAMED AHMED IBRAHIM Recognised for his geometric motifs and avant-garde works, Emirati artist Mohamed Ahmed Ibrahim was an influential member of the UAE’s 1980s contemporary art movement. For his latest exhibition, staged at the Lawrie Shabibi art gallery in Alserkal Avenue, the homegrown talent reveals a new series of vivid paintings and sculptures that reflect Ibrahim’s time in lockdown (in his home of Khor Fakkan) and journey into his innate knowledge. Until 12 November; Alserkalavenue.ae

TOYS AND TROPHIES: FROM ZEUS’ PANDORA TO BARBIE DOLL BY TAGREED DARGHOUTH Presented at Tabari Artspace, Lebanese painter Tagreed Darghouth’s latest exhibition features selected works that were completed during the aftermath of the Beirut explosion which destroyed Darghouth’s studio. Working with acrylic on canvas, the artist translates her grief into pieces that explore the socially constructed reality of feminine beauty, drawing influence from how gender is viewed in Greek mythology, on social media and via the contemporary Barbie. Opening on 20 October; Tabariartspace.com

KAI AT OPERA GALLERY DUBAI Los Angeles-born artist Kai uses an expansive array of mediums to convey social and political messages that capture the frenzy of urban life. Juxtaposing his social commentary with bright colour-blocking and a playful street-style aesthetic, Kai uses his signature character ‘IF’ (Imaginary Friend) to break stereotypes and cultural divides and reflect topics such as pollution and consumerism. Kai’s work is currently on display at Opera Gallery Dubai in DIFC. Operagallery.com

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HAUTE HANGOUTS

ESCAPE TO EUROPE Relax into an October filled with cuisine and atmosphere that evokes the glamour and romance of a lavish European summer, from the eclecticism of French-Vietnamese Indocine to the charm of Italian Scalini

Gaia, DIFC Dubai If you’re looking for a leisurely lunch or dinner with an abundance of time to catch-up with family and friends, look again: in keeping with typical Greek fashion, expect a bustling vibe and plates delivered to your table at record-shattering speed. That said, the sumptuous but simply-done Greek-Mediterranean cuisine makes enduring the slightly feverish atmosphere more than worthwhile (Chef Izu Ani is its culinary mastermind, also known for his work at Le Petite Maison, La Serre and Carine). MOJEH recommends either the Greek or Lobster salads, Sea Bass Ceviche, Greek Style Meatballs and anything from the fresh-fish counter. In contrast to its hyperactive vibe, interiors are beautifully laid-back with low tables, sofa style seating, and a refreshing wash of cream, white and lemon. Book ahead, avoid the weekend rush if you can, expect excellent food in an energetic atmosphere, and you won’t be disappointed. Gaia-dubai.com, +971 4 241 4242

Indochine, DIFC Dubai The French-Vietnamese favourite has dominated New York’s culinary scene since 1984 (regulars over the decades have included creatives such as Valentino, Andy Warhol, Cindy Crawford and now next-gen A-Listers Kendall Jenner and Kaia Gerber). And now, Dubai’s DIFC plays host to its first venue outside of NYC. The mood is high voltage: neon lights; tropical décor (replete with the scent of a sizzling Vietnamese summer; and the trendiest wait team in Dubai.

Each dish – developed by Chef Steven Nguyen – is a work of art: seared Wagyu flank is accentuated with refreshing green papaya and a sweet yuzu soy dressing in the Beef & Green Papaya Salad; chicken and shrimp rice noodles are mixed with shiitake and nuoc cham in a mouth-watering Indochine favourite, Vietnamese Ravioli; and black cod enveloped in caramel fish sauce is arguably better than its traditional version.

Visit as many times as it takes to work your way through the share-style menu… Indochinedxb.com, +941 4 208 9333

Scalini, Four Seasons Resort, Dubai Inspired by the matriarchal kitchens and dishes of Italian childhoods, Scalini Dubai is an export from London’s posh Mayfair district, where it has been a popular haunt for the UK’s most discerning customer for almost three decades. In both London and Dubai it has become a go-to spot for good Italian food done simply and properly.

While the concept is fine-dining and the cuisine and service more than lives up to that description, the atmosphere is unassuming and, well, fun! It maintains the charm of the original venue and then melds it with the funloving and unassuming vibe for which Dubai’s Bulldozer Group (chaired by Evgeny Kuzin), is celebrated. Expect exceptional food and friendly service set against the soundtrack of ’80s Brit pop (think Spandau Ballet and Kate Bush) interlaced with Italian classics. Scalini-dubai.com +971 4 349 0068

Bleu Blanc, Renaissance Downtown Dubai It might be nestled in the heart of a high-rise, but its ambience enables you to escape to an idyllic farmhouse in the South of France. The interiors are homey but elegant, with rustic floors, timber finishes and a wood-fired grill where carefully sourced meats, seafood and vegetables are sizzling for all to see. The menu features classic French dishes to ponder over, including succulent grilled meat cuts, the freshest flavours of the sea and of course, oysters. But if you want to dine Provence-style (When in France…), let the team take the helm and decide for you — adding to the culinary experience, you’ll be surprised by each dish that arrives at the table (with a perfect drinks pairing). Bursting with the warmth and charm of a quintessential French bistro, Bleu Blanc Oysters & Grill is set to whisk you away to the vineyards and olive groves of the South of France. Bleublanc-dubai.com, +971 4 512 5555

WHAT TO WEAR

Jason Wu

Dion Lee

Altuzarra

Azure tones, svelte cuts and a flash of skin – if it’s slightly louche, even better

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Actor Marion Cotillard models her Ice Cube earring

FINAL NOTE

Made for Marion When Chopard embarked on its ‘Journey to Sustainable Luxury’ back in 2013, it led the charge in the art and business of luxury with a conscience. Now, fellow fervent environmental activist and good friend of the maison, Marion Cotillard has joined forces with the luxury Swiss brand to design her own high jewellery collection that uses only Fairtrade-certified gold and responsibly sourced diamonds – the Ice Cube Capsule by Marion Cotillard.

A Greenpeace ambassador who has travelled the world on expeditions highlighting the alarming effect of climate change on our planet, the values of ethical luxury is something that the Oscar-winning French actress is passionate about championing. “I think that if you have the choice between luxury that comes with awareness regarding how things are made, and luxury that implies not caring at all what is going on in the world, most people will choose the fair way,” Cotillard tells MOJEH. “This implies that those who create luxury should keep that in mind and do something to offer a transformation of how we behave as consumers, especially when it comes to luxury. It is something that also expresses the culture, the beauty of a country, a city – and I think that’s important.”

This ethos is crystal-clear in the collection itself, which was designed by the Oscar-winning French actress and created by Chopard using responsibly mined materials and the technical expertise of its artisans. Comprising seven bold and contemporary pieces, the capsule is crafted for a curated ear, with a mix-and-match assortment of individual and linked ear cuffs and princess-cut diamond stud for one side, with a cascade of tumbling diamonds for the other – all different yet complementary styles that don’t require piercings. An asymmetrical ring featuring a diamond set off-centre across two bands of gold completes the collection, all of which demonstrate concern for the men and women who mine raw materials.

Since July 2018 Chopard has been flying the flag for ethical watches and jewellery with its commitment to using 100 per cent ethical gold, which is sourced from small-scale mines in the Swiss Better Gold Association (SBGA), Fairmined and Fairtrade schemes, as well as Responsible Jewellery Council-certified refineries. The same rigorous process also applies to the gemstones – the maison sources diamonds verified by the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, that ensures only conflict-free diamonds enter the market.

“True luxury depends on knowing the origin of our products,” explains co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele.

“Rome was not built in a day, but we have to start somewhere to improve the whole industry.” Let’s hope others soon follow suit.

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If you have the choice between luxury that comes with awareness regarding how things are made, and luxury that implies not caring at all what is going on in the world, most people will choose the fair way Actor Marion Cotillard

Words: Naomi Chadderton | Photography: Eliott Bliss

One of the most powerful women in Hollywood, actor Marion Cotillard, tells MOJEH why luxury and ethics are mutually inclusive

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