April issue #76

trength

S

Add the magic touch of serendipity to your life with a private membership from Louis Fourteen

T: +971 4 425 8600 | E: lifestyle@louisfourteen.com

14 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Print Sales Manager RABIH EL TURK

Acting Managing Editor LUCY WILDMAN

Office Manager JULIA NICOLAE

Staff Writer JENNA CALVERT

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Contributing Editors LUCY BLOOM GEMMA DEEKS NATASCHA HAWKE ELAINE LLOYD-JONES HAFSA LODI NICK NUTTALL REBECCA ANNE PROCTOR

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Contributing Photographers GREG ADAMSKI VIVIENNE BALLA SAMANTHA NANDEZ AUSRA OSIPAVICIUTE ALENA SAZONOVA ANDREWW YEE

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH Tel: +971 4 425 86 00 Email: louis@louisfourteen.com Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Guest Fashion Stylists NOA GUEZ STUART ROBERTSON ROCKY

ART Production and Creative Direction MOJEH MAGAZINE Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI Graphic Designer BALAJI MAHENDRAN

Cover photographed by GREG ADAMSKI MADU wears BURBERRY

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (February-June 2018): 11,077 copies For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

16

22

THE SECRET GARDEN Earthy tones in natural finishes – the most stylish way to

50

accessorise your new spring wardrobe

CATCH THE SUN Bouguessa’s sunset-inspired apparel goes global with it’s debut capsule collection

72

NATURAL SELECTION

124

Feminine and graceful with a utilitarian undertone, Dior’s

SS20 collection explores the beauty of the botanical world

SPRING FLING Mood-boosting new beauty treats and can’t-wait-to-try them catwalk trends to fall in love with

Dubai

|

Abu Dhabi

+971 4 337 0116

|

Sharjah

Interiorsfurniture.com

|

Al Ain |

Ras Al Khaimah

InteriorsFurnitureUAE

InteriorsUAE

18

144

TRAVEL EDIT

150

MOJEH looks forward to a time we can relax once again with a trip to the world’s most sensational spa destinations

WELLNESS WARRIORS The Dubai entrepreneurs dedicated to making us healthier and happier from the inside out

156

OUR PLANET

164

This April, be inspired by intergalactic architecture, tropical

interiors, sustainable style and planet-friendly food

LIFE & STYLE MOJEH exclusively explores the New York home of celebrated jewellery designer, Nina Runsdorf

Photographed by Ina Lekiewicz

SUBSCRIBE TO MOJEH MAGAZINE HAVE THE VERY BEST IN STYLE DELIVERED DIRECTLY TO YOU. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com

20

EDITOR’S LETTER

There’s no denying that this is a time of unparalleled devastation and uncertainty for the world. As many countries continue in their lockdowns amid a global pandemic, it’s difficult to focus our thoughts elsewhere. But it’s in these times of unprecedented disruption that fashion can offer a muchneeded route of escapism — whether you’re seeking distraction, inspiration or connection to the community around you.

In this April issue, explore the beautiful surrounds of the Emirates, where our cover shoot captures SS20’s most spectacular pieces against the breathtaking backdrop of Fujairah’s Hajar Mountains. Nature’s wonder continues (on page 72), where Maria Grazia Chiuri’s SS20 collection for Dior reveals feminine florals offset against countryside tweed.

Elsewhere, Chanel’s first high jewellery collection inspired by their signature cloth is featured in The Fabric of Fashion (page 114) and (page 134) takes us back to the colour-popping beauty of the eternally-electric ‘80s.

This issue also provides a fitting focus on wellbeing, with Wellness Warriors (page 150) spotlighting the Dubai entrepreneurs helping people stay healthy and happy from the inside out; through organic farming, healthy cooking classes and mindful meditation practises at wellbeing sanctuary, SEVA. If you’re looking for interiors inspiration, this month’s Life & Style (page 164) explores the carefully curated New York home of jewellery designer, Nina Runsdorf, and with Earth Day on April 22, our final note (page 170) features an insightful message from esteemed climate change spokesperson, Nick Nuttall.

I’d like to end by sending my thoughts and well wishes to each and every one of you, and by sharing my hope that this issue can help to briefly detract from some of the anxieties currently being faced. Whether it’s a beautiful visual to get momentarily lost in, or a few insightful words to absorb, it’s important to remain connected in these testing times, while still finding strength and optimism in the smallest of things.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Hana Levan

STRENGTH AND OPTIMISM

1

8

2

THE MOJEH EDIT Mix raffia and rope with an earthy palette, elevated by a woody fragrance and fresh-off-the-beach beauty

7

3

1. KAYU at OUNASS | 2. CHLOÉ | 3. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | 4. TOM FORD BEAUTY | 5. DEVEAUX at MODA OPERANDI | 6. STELLA MCCARTNEY | 7. CULT GAIA | 8. OSCAR DE LA RENTA

5

4 6

22

THE SECRET GARDEN Earthy tones in natural finishes – the most stylish way to accessorise your new spring wardrobe Photography by Tina Patni Styling by Stuart Robertson

Sandal, BOTTEGA VENETA

24

Purse, DOLCE & GABBANA

Sandal, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

26

Rendez-Vous Moon Watch, JAEGER LECOULTRE

Bag, DIOR

28

Bag, BALLY

30

Bag, SAINT LAURENT PARIS

Sandal, COACH

32

Shoe, DIOR

Lady Compliquee Peacock Watch, FABERGÉ

34

Sandal, CHLOÉ

36

SPRING IN STYLE Hot new bags, brands on our radar and what you should be buying now.

Spring’s fashion finds have got us in overdrive

STYLE EDIT

FENDI

38

SAINT LAURENT

GREEN WITH ENVY Available exclusively to the region, with just 25 pieces up for BURBERRY

PICK A POCKET OR TWO

grabs, Saint Laurent’s Mini Cassandra top-handle bag in green python skin may be small, but it’s perfectly formed.

GIVENCHY

THE BAGS

Seen on Burberry’s SS20 runway, the pocket tote is an archive-inspired handbag mirroring some of the house’s iconic silhouettes, crafted with canvas and finished with a graphic logo. Super-practical and tote-ally chic.

VERSACE

BAROCCO BAGS A symbol of Versace’s heritage, the Virtus handbag line seen on the SS20 runway features a Barocco-inspired letter V, the golden embellishment upgrading the supple top-handle baskets. Available in different sizes, colours and tie-dye prints, summer’s It-bag is a wardrobe must.

SOFT TOUCH Available this month, Givenchy presents a more supple variation of its iconic and best-selling Antigona handbag.

The Antigona Soft mirrors the mood of relaxed elegance from the brand’s AW20 collection – the slouchy shape a new fashion favourite for the foreseeable.

BEST FOOT FORWARD Available only in the UAE and Kuwait, Bottega Veneta’s BV Curve woven sandal can be found in a beautiful, limited-edition green

THE ACCESSORIES

colourway exclusively for the region.

THROWING SHADE After successfully launching across retailers globally, you can now find Karen Wazen Eyewear closer to home, with the influencer’s designs available at Level Shoes, The Dubai Mall. The latest collection boasts retro styles from cat eye to ’90s-inspired shades.

KAREN WAZEN AT LEVEL SHOES

BOTTEGA VENETA

NEW JEWELS New collections we can’t wait to get our fingers into

GUCCI

TIFFANY & CO

ROARING STYLE

T-TIME

Gucci has expanded its distinctive Lion Head fine

Tiffany & Co’s next chapter of its Tiffany T line is its

jewellery collection with new arrivals in white- and yellow

newest collection, Tiffany T1, an edit of nine exclusive

-old set with vibrant gemstones, each with a different

rose-gold and diamond pieces that boast extraordinary

symbolic meaning. Fierce and elegant.

everyday luxury and a bold, yet refined statement.

THE COLLABS

40

VICTORIA BECKHAM X REEBOK

ON SET WITH… Weekend Max Mara’s new signature collection is a collaboration with Italian costume designer Gabriella Pescucci, inspired by three of her blockbuster works. Using fantasy film references fused with the Max Mara aesthetic, the line-up of pieces come in a palette of white, blush, ivory and black to mirror a glamorous Italian lifestyle.

ESSENTIAL PURISM Reebok has collaborated with Victoria Beckham for their third collection together. Fusing Victoria’s relaxed, ’90s sportswear aesthetic with Reebok’s archival looks, the collection is designed for the modern woman on-the-go, and everyday functionality. This season sees technical innovations applied, WEEKEND MAX MARA

including fabric with a UV50 factor to protect from the sun’s harmful rays, along with hydrophilic finishes to absorb sweat.

MAJE

TO THE POOL This summer, Maje is releasing a capsule collection inspired by the poolside party photographs of the ’70s taken by legendary photographer Slim Aarons. Maje founder Judith Milgrom created a postcard-style print on dresses, tops, bodysuits, oversized shirts and playsuits for the eight-piece capsule collection. Available from April.

Photography: Prod Antzoulis. Styling: Samantha Francis Baker

THE PIECE

GUCCI

SNAP IT UP Gucci’s latest incarnation of the Thiara handbag has been reimagined in an array of beautiful colours that emphasise its crocodile skin, making it a collector’s classic. Crafted in Italy from high-shine crocodile leather, the Thiara features a signature bamboo top handle – first introduced in 1947 – and a roaring feline head encrusted with sparkling crystals and two stones for its eyes. Available at Gucci’s The Dubai Mall boutique for the first time in the region.

THE COLLECTIONS

42

MINIMAL MODESTY Designed exclusively for the Middle East, COS has launched a limited-edition, 18-piece capsule in celebration of Ramadan 2020, marrying the brand’s value for timeless, functional designs with a considered approach to dressing. Focusing on modernity and reinvention while exploring new finishes and proportions, classic garments are transformed using lightweight silks in a palette of neutrals with bursts of light blue, teal and fuchsia.

COS

BEACH, PLEASE Dubai-based designer and founder of Bambah, Maha Abdul Rasheed talks to MOJEH about her transition from eveningwear to beachwear for her latest collection What inspired you for this collection? Beach clothes are my favourite thing to wear! I’m a beach girl at heart, and I look forward to summer just to be able to wear floral dresses and linen sets and kaftans. I also noticed that resort wear and beach wardrobes are now trending more than ever, and people are looking for elegant beach outfits to wear throughout summer. What materials did you choose to work with in this collection? We’ve used very soft fabrics (mainly cottons and linens), as it makes the pieces easy to wear, easy to travel with, and easy to care for. I wanted a relaxed, yet chic collection so our customers can feel very comfortable. The floral prints and basic solids can be easily dressed up or down, depending on the occasion and the destination. How did you stay true to the Bambah DNA? We’ve maintained the same design aesthetic and spirit of the Bambah brand and just tweaked it to reflect the new direction. So our usual signature bows, flower crop-tops, well within a resort look and feel. How does this collection differ from those of previous seasons? Bambah is primarily an occasionwear brand focusing more on eveningwear and glamorous gowns in a variety of silk fabrics and jacquards; this is a more casual approach showing a whole other side of the brand. This collection is so versatile, and all the pieces take you from beach, to lunch, to dinner and everything in between.

With such a curated selection of fun, easy-to-wear and affordable pieces, we’re hoping to open our doors to a different market and cater to a new kind of audience. What are your favourite pieces in the collection? I personally love the Lime Balloon Top and matching culottes!

Favourite beach in the world? North Coast Beach in Alexandria, Egypt.

Photography: Gorunway.com Words: Gemma Deeks

ruffles and off-the-shoulder styles are carried over, yet adapted to fit

ACNE STUDIOS

LEVI’S

BALLOON JEAN

SPIRIT OF NATURE

For SS20, Levi’s embraces a ‘bigger is better’ ’80s ethos with a brand

Acne Studios finds inspiration from Swedish artist August

new jean: the Balloon. With a high-rise waist and an exaggerated

Strindberg’s landscape paintings for its SS20 collection. With

curved leg, the Balloon is available in four different fits and a range

the spirit of nature in mind, the collection’s palette takes its

of colours and fabrications, taking classic denim to new heights.

cues from the Swedish countryside. A fashionable fusion of art,

Emphasis is on the waist, so wear yours with a tank top and heels.

nature and modern dressing.

THE TREND: BIKINI TOPS The printed bikini top was seen among Italian designer collections this season, paired with outerwear for dolce far niente dressing.

DOLCE & GABBANA

FENDI

MISSONI

Photography by Mazen Abu Srour Words: Jenna Calvert

THE CAPSULES

44

THE CAPSULES Dior’s limited-edition 30 Montaigne in rose gold

DESERT ROSE Centred on Christian Dior’s favourite colourway, the new Dior Rose Gold capsule collection is dedicated to the allure of the Middle East According to Christian Dior’s The Little Dictionary of Fashion, “Every woman should have pink in her wardrobe.” To the couturier, the colour was a reflection of happiness and femininity — a soft, elegant shade that encapsulated the essence of the Dior woman. Placed at the heart of the house’s new capsule collection, Christian Dior’s favoured rose spectrum is revisited through the eye of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, in a collection dedicated to the cinematic landscape and rich culture of the Middle East. Entitled Dior Rose Gold, the regionally exclusive capsule reveals ethereal tulle dresses in pale blush, sparkling mules inscribed with the name of the house’s founder, silky scarves in subtle shades of salmon, and rose-gold jewellery illuminated with Dior’s lucky star. Iconic bag silhouettes — including the Lady Dior, 30 Montaigne and Dior Book Tote bags — are crafted in a shimmering metallic colourway and elevated by intricately embroidered beading which flawlessly evokes the atelier’s meticulous savoir-faire. Pale pinks are offset by hints of teal, silver and dark slate (another colour admired by Christian Dior himself), as pink and grey entwine in a masculine-meets-feminine palette. The colour combination nostalgically reflects Monsieur Dior’s childhood home in Granville, France — and the pearly desert sky, as the sun slips behind the dunes. Captured for the first time in the serene surrounds of the UAE, the capsule in complemented by the traditional terracotta walls and sweeping sands that embody the charm of the Emirates — as French finesse effortlessly blends with the iridescent magic of Arabia. Available in all Dior boutiques throughout the Middle East from April 2.

46

EID WITH ERDEM The feted British designer’s capsule in collaboration with de Gournay launches exclusively at Net-A-Porter

THE CAPSULES

Renowned for his spectacular floral prints, fans of British designer Erdem can now not only dress themselves in his beautiful designs, they can adorn their home with his work too.

Collaborating with esteemed hand-painted wallpaper specialists de Gournay, Erdem has created an exclusive design for wall coverings, translated onto fabric for his eponymous label – with the seven-piece, all-white clothing capsule stocked exclusively by Net-A-Porter.

A riotous depiction of nature in full bloom, Erdem’s design for the luxurious wallpaper and fabric is a springtime vision of flora and birds, presenting the medium in a kaleidoscopic rendition of saturated tones.

Hydrangea, hollyhock, irises, chrysanthemum and morning glory jostle amidst a verdant lattice of branches, with sparrows, warblers, pheasant and egrets interspersed throughout. With de Gournay’s wallpapers in ‘Golden Yellow’, ‘Adam Grey’ and ‘Kelly Green’ to join its iconic Chinoiserie collection, Erdem’s fashion pieces are presented in black, navy blue and white, with the print altered in scale as a florid pattern of beautiful garlands on silk voile.

Part of a wider Modern Modest edit that showcases designs from 20 luxury labels, Erdem’s exclusive white capsule comprises gowns, dresses and separates, and has landed on the site in perfect time for Ramadan and the 20th anniversary of Net-A-Porter in June.

Erdem’s pairing with de Gournay extends to a capsule collection

THE ERDEM EDIT A romantic view of nature in full bloom, the exclusive all-white capsule is a wardrobe perennial

ERDEM X DE GOURNAY EXCLUSIVE CAPSULE AT NET-A-PORTER

ERDEM X DE GOURNAY @ NET A PORTER

48 5 DAYS OF STYLE Shopbop’s latest feature helps you plan your week ahead, with versatile outfits

THE E-COM

curated for the office, date night, off-duty errands and weekend brunch, creating the ultimate style agenda. You’ll never be stuck for outfit inspiration again. Shopbop.com

1

2

3

TIMELESS STYLE MOJEH speaks to Attuale’s co-founder, Giuditta Spezzapria, about the site’s vintage collection, The Archive What inspired you to create The Archive? This very specially curated collection lets me showcase some of my most treasured memories and traditions of Italy – a country that is widely admired and recognised for its tailoring, fabrics and timeless fashion as a whole. What was your first memory of vintage fashion, or the first vintage item you ever bought? My first memory of vintage fashion is my mother’s wardrobe, and her first Gucci wallet and small purse especially.

She bought these pieces in a perfume shop. I always found it so fascinating, associating it with the rise of Italian brands. Where did you source the vintage pieces on the site from? Most of the items are sourced from Paris. Vintage buying for us is all about discovering new places and spotting high quality and authentic pieces that have been well-preserved. Favourite item on the site? I’ve had my eye on the black embellished blazer since I first saw it – it’s such a versatile piece, and my absolute favourite cut, midway between oversized

4

and fitted. Favourite vintage piece you own?

A small, embellished baguette bag that came from my mother’s wardrobe. How does The Archive pieces from the ’40s, ’60s, ’70s… items that have lasted over multiple lifetimes that aim at encouraging a ‘reduce, reuse and recycle’ way of purchasing. How do The Archive pieces fit into an everyday wardrobe? By adding more value to your closet. Owning a piece of history always feels memorable, and by wearing vintage, you are helping the planet save resources. Attuale.com

1. GUCCI | 2. COTTON CITIZEN | 3. AGOLDE | 4. ACNE STUDIO

Words: Gemma Deeks

connect to sustainability? It’s a collection of

A CURATED COLLECTIVE Coming this month, leading online destination Farfetch has launched Farfetch BEAT, a weekly drop of the world’s most sought-after products via brand partnerships, new and exclusive labels, and boutique collaborations. Global customers will have access to the most relevant and coveted fashion in the world, week by week, shifting away from the more traditional seasonal drops. Farfetch.com

FARFETCH

MATCHESFASHION

VALEXTRA

CIAO BELLA The epitome of Milanese style, luxury handbag brand Valextra brings its expertise in fine leather craftsmanship to the Middle East with the launch of its new e-commerce platform specially for the region. Developed for customers on the lookout for bespoke, unique and handcrafted designs, the website offers its Middle Eastern clientele an extensive selection of leather accessories. Valextra.com

SENSIBLE SHOPPING With a growing number of shoppers trying to live more a more sustainable lifestyle, MatchesFashion has launched The Responsible Edit, an online hub where customers can purchase brands committed to ethical practices, whether that’s via materials, charity, artisans or workers in fair-trade environments. Matchesfashion.com

50

THE .COM

CATCH THE SUN Bouguessa’s sunset-inspired apparel goes global with it’s debut capsule collection Designed to take you from sunrise to sunset, Bouguessa’s SS20 collection comprises fluid-fit crepe coats, day-to-night shirt dresses and impeccably-tailored suits in a spectrum of vivid sunset shades — shifting from sky blue to golden yellow and standout fuchsia. Founded by French-Algerian designer Faiza Bouguessa, the Dubai-based label has recently launched a curated edit of spring staples on Net-a-Porter, reaching out to an ever-growing global audience of women seeking modest, minimalist designs that translate effortlessly from work to weekend. The debut capsule for the e-commerce platform features seven key pieces in easy-breezy fabrics, including a two-tone cinnamon and rosewood belted blazer with co-ordinating pants; a water blue coat that can be layered or worn as a dress, and a loose-fit striped poplin shirt, easily styled with chunky sandals and a raffia bag for the long hot summer. Perfect for compiling a sleek new season wardrobe that’s both elegant and comfortable, each garment can be effortlessly dressedup or pared-back — whether you’re on-the-go or winding down watching the sun set. Netaporter.com Bouguessa’s SS20 belted crepe coat in water blue

Bouguessa’s creative director Faiza wears a two-tone cady blazer with matching pants

THE EDIT

Striped poplin shirt dress; Cotton shirt dress; Double-breasted crepe coat, all BOUGUESSA at NET-A-PORTER

Working from home? MOJEH meets the Dubai designer who makes being under house arrest a rather more glamorous affair

A bold black-and-white polka-dot pattern splashed with fluorescent pink and orange daisies sets an intriguing tone for one of Dubai’s must-shop fashion pop-ups this season. Exhibiting at the new Design House concept store at Gate Avenue in DIFC, the spring/summer 2020 fashion and interiors collection by Wear The House is every eclectic, vintage-lover’s dream.

Envisioned

by

Dubai-based

British

designer

Jennifer Black, Wear The House produces both fashion and interior décor under a single label.

Her debut collection has launched at what she calls “a shoppable living room” within Design House, and features digital prints on pyjamas, cushions and wallpapers, along with limited-edition pouffes created in collaboration with Dubai-based furniture concept studio Mishmashi, as well as select vintage pieces from Black’s personal collection.

“Vintage and heritage elements are very important to my brand,” says the designer, who often scours vintage markets across the globe for unique, statement-making Above: SS20’s must-have ikat pyjamas. Below: Designer Jennifer Black

pieces to brighten up her home. Her personal style is a reflection of her décor taste – dramatic, glamorous, rainbow-hued and full of layers. “The prints we use work both for interior and fashion – you really will want to wear our wallpaper prints,” she tells MOJEH. Take a lesson in laid-back luxury with her pyjama sets, which are crafted from 100% silk in an array of exquisite prints, all stamped with a distinctive tropicana-influenced aesthetic. Palm trees dotted with pearls are splattered on a fuchsia pink print, and a chic navy blue set features pearls in place of polka dots. A vibrant red and pink ikat pattern showcases one of the season’s hottest colourways, while Black’s best-selling vintage postage stamp pieces, featuring vivid florals, employ a winning print for both fashion and interiors.

These aren’t designs just to parade around the home in – the pyjama sets by Wear The House can be worn together or as separates, as daywear or eveningwear, as favoured by the designer herself, who donned her stamp set to a

Words: Hafsa Lodi

prestigious award ceremony earlier this year. Running until the end of May, the Wear The House pop-up speaks to the jet-setting, effervescent woman who wears silk pyjamas as power suits and decorates her home with a kitschy clash of one-of-a-kind décor pieces. Wearthehouse.com.

THE NAME TO KNOW

BEDTIME STORIES

PARIS IN THE SPRING Chanel’s creative director, Virginie Viard, hosts a rooftop celebration of Parisian joie de vivre for SS20

Words: Lucy Wildman Photography: Benoit Peverelli, Getty Images

THE COLLECTION

52

“

The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague… and I saw silhouettes walking on those roofs.

Virginie Viard

I

n her first ready-to-wear collection since Karl Lagerfeld passed away, Virginie Viard’s SS20 line was designed with the wardrobe of a young, French woman in mind – the kind of girl we all want to be; the charming and spirited young lady who possesses that innate ability to look effortlessly stylish in everything she wears, every place she wears it.

A contemporary woman’s how-to on getting dressed for the new decade, grounded in the heritage of Coco Chanel, Viard’s ready-to-wear collection boasts the nonchalant grace of a cinematic heroine – feminine, urban, modern, elegant, undeniably chic and, naturally, brimming with joie de vivre.

Set amongst the Paris rooftops – or at least, roofs recreated beneath the soaring vaulted glass ceilings of the Grand Palais for the SS20 show – models walked between versions of the zinc roofs so typical of the French capital’s skyline, complete with chimney pots and windows opening out onto the city below.

“The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague,” explained Viard of her inspiration – the French New Wave cinema of the 1950s and ’60s, famous for portraying young actresses in the honest light of real life. “I saw silhouettes walking on those roofs. I thought about Kristen Stewart playing Jean Seberg, and all the actresses Gabrielle dressed all the time,” explained the creative director of her vision, sparked by Chanel muse Kristen, whose new biopic of the life of the iconic French actress had planted a seed of inspiration in her mind.

Playing with the simplicity and balance of volume for both day and night, jackets with flounced collars and cuffs, and short skirts reinterpret the tweed suit, with Capri pants and ruffled denim jackets joining the free-spirited dance. Pure white coats finished

54

“

I thought about Kristen Stewart playing Jean Seberg, and all the actresses Gabrielle dressed all the time.

Virginie Viard

with braid worn with voluminous tops and skirts in black and white tweed walked alongside a reworked straight, masculine jacket, reimagined as playsuits, jumpsuits and sweet little dresses with flirty flared skirts. Meanwhile, long coats in wool crêpe and tweed played off against striped tops and knotted shirts, adding a nuance of masculine/feminine dress codes.

With the youthful breeze of liberty blowing through the creative director’s mind, an array of featherlight fabrics featured throughout the collection.

Model Rebecca Leigh Longendyke wore sheer breeches under a voluminous black skirt, and an assortment of flouncy, see-through blouses, like Kaia Gerber’s black off-the-shoulder number, paired with a cute, cloud-like cream mini, gave plenty of flirtatious energy. Short satin, silk faille and taffeta wraparound or asymmetric skirts worn high on the waist – petticoated or not with organza – were topped with ruffled tops and pleated blouses with balloon sleeves, embellished with tiny bows or raffia and organza petals. The fabric’s transparency revealed the exceptional work of the ateliers required for the construction of the dresses and their handkerchief hems. Tiers of printed chiffon, organza, feathers and raffia fringes give structure to the delicate tops and ankle-sweeping skirts. Stripes and checks illuminated by bold block tones of red, orange, pink and blue offset pieces in the emblematic monochromes of the house. And then back to those inspirational Parisian rooftops – the focus of a variety of pretty prints.

A sketched version on anthracite chiffon dresses with lipstick-red matte sequins around the collars; the letters of the Chanel maison haphazardly positioned on the silhouetted skyline on a series of blue pieces; a third featuring lit dormer windows, referencing Coco Chanel’s quote, “I’ve always lived in attics or palaces.”

Chanel’s creative director Virginie Viard makes final adjustments at the SS20 pre-show fittings

Accessorised with mainly flat shoes and sandals boasting jewelled or stress-embellished straps, most looks were topped with a hat – a nod to Coco Chanel’s early career as a milliner. Viard’s were brimmed, some adorned with red camelias – a fanciful nod to Coco’s favourite flower in a burst of vivacious colour.

And the house’s iconic quilted bags were reimagined in numerous ways for spring. Très, très mignon was the version carried by Gigi Hadid, while a cylindrical wristlet with attached logo reminiscent of schoolgirl pencil cases, with straps made from a classic or ruffled chain, added an element of cheekiness. In a large version, the Chanel 19 bag comes swathed in printed silk twill, while the 11.12 bag returns in tweed to match its suit. The flip bag is refreshed with a wrist bracelet or braid in two-tone grosgrain ribbon, while others have a more precious note: beads set with chains or sequined embroideries with floral motifs. Meanwhile, couture jewellery is worn in accumulation: pearl sautoirs and brooches, necklaces in colourful crystal, and cuff bracelets, topped off with a Chanel signature.

56 EMERALD CITY STYLE Dolce & Gabbana has created four special styles of python

THE NOTEWORTHY

leather accessory in emerald green and black exclusively for Level Shoes, available this month.

DOLCE & GABBANA

LIU JO

BLUE JEAN BABY LIU JO’s Better Denim capsule collection is back for another season, boasting eco-friendly denim produced with sustainability in mind. By collaborating with leading partners in the ecofashion sector, everything from the fabric to the label, and washing to production techniques is environmentally friendly.

ACOLÉ

TOMMY HILFIGER

UNCOMPLICATED LUXURY

SHIPSHAPE STYLE

ACOLÉ, short for ‘A Collection of Luxury Essentials’ is a brand

Celebrating the brand’s 35th anniversary, Tommy Hilfiger has

that exudes Scandinavian aesthetic and effortless luxury. Focusing

announced the launch of the Tommy Hilfiger Icons line, with designs

on exceptional fabrics, uncompromising quality and impeccable

inspired by its nautical roots. With Hilfiger’s longstanding love of

details, Dubai-based Linda Bruun Lacin noticed a gap in the market

sailing, the collection establishes a playful, high-fashion twist on

for uncomplicated luxury essentials that can be packed into a

timeless staples including Breton stripes, crested buttons and the

suitcase for the global woman on the go. Acolecollection.com

classic Tommy Hilfiger red, white and blue palette. Hello, sailor!

THE MOOD

VERSACE

THE NEW STRUCTURE The feminine silhouette has a bold new look

JW ANDERSON

EMILIA WICKSTEAD DION LEE

KHAITE

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Strong necklines and bold cutouts exude a sexy new silhouette this season. Laser-cut precision was seen from Versace to Emilia Wickstead, with bodice tops and jackets taking a sharper approach to the usual, softer femininity. Wear in monochrome for sophisticated power dressing and keep accessories to a minimum. From the new sweetheart to scifi-inspired shapes, these daring designs are not for the faint-hearted.

58 ON THE STREET

MODERN MINT Last season’s pistachio palette has made way for a refreshing blast of mint. On the streets, the cool ice-cream tone offered a soft take on monochrome dressing, whether worn across co-ordinating separates or easy-breezy daytime dresses. Wear it with a hint of lilac or pastel pink for the sweetest springtime look.

Opt for modest maxis in the pretty pastel shade Icy blue Bottega Veneta pumps offer a subtle take on the trend

Make mint pop with all-white accessories

Wear all your greens at once and pair mint with emerald

Aqua and purple create a dynamic duo

Add washed-out denim for chic daytime dressing

Wear utilitarian co-ords in cool hues

VANILLA SKY

For sheer elegance, wear vanilla top-to-toe

Take your cues from the SS20 showgoers and add a scoop of vanilla to your wardrobe. A minimalist’s dream, this neutral shade is the new beige and the foundation to an ethereal, no-fuss ensemble; from luxe layers to short suiting. Offset the creamy colour with chocolate-brown leather, or toughen it up with jet-black accessories.

Erika Boldrin’s pared-back take on SS20’s polka dot

Shorts suits work for warmer months

The pleated maxi skirt proved popular on the streets

Consider this your guide to carefree summer dressing

60

FASHION IN FOCUS

7 1

2 6 BOTTEGA VENETA

’90S REVIVAL The iconic slip dress, the thong sandal and the Rachel bag are key pieces your wardrobe shouldn’t be without.

Uncomplicated fashion is a hit.

1. BY FAR | 2. SAINT LAURENT | 3. LAURA LOMBARDI AT OUNASS | 4. STAUD | 5. NEOUS at NET-A-PORTER | 6. REDONE | 7. REFORMATION AT NET-A-PORTER

5

Photography: Gorunway.com

3

4

1

7

2 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

CROCHET ALL DAY Forget your grandmother’s knitting, this season’s crochet was made for chic resort vacations. Craft has made a comeback and breezy knits are back.

6

1. FENDI | 2. SANDRO | 3. BOTTEGA VENETA | 4. MIU MIU | 5. DIOR | 6. BY MALENE BIRGER | 7. BRUNELLO CUCCINELLI

3

4 5

62

1

7

PRADA

2

PREPPY PERFECT

6

Eccentric sweaters, knee-length skirts and sensible loafers channel retro boarding-school cool with a fashion gold star.

1. FENDI | 2. PRADA | 3. LOEWE | 4. COACH | 5. GIVENCHY | 6. MAJE | 7. GUCCI

4 3 5

1

7

BOSS

SHE’S ELECTRIC

6

This season, only the brightest blue will do.

An instant hit when worn head-to-toe, this standout shade is perfect paired with white accessories for daytime cool.

2

1. ANNIE COSTELLO BROWN at THE MODIST | 2. MARNI | 3. MALONE SOULIERS at MATCHESFASHION | 4. BALENCIAGA | 5. KAREN WAZEN | 6. ALESSANDRA RICH at MODA OPERANDI | 7. VALENTINO

4

3

5

64

Photography: Getty Images

MOJEH FASHION

Supermodels Carla Bruni and Karen Mulder backstage at the A/W96 Hervé Léger show in Paris

STRETCH APPEAL

Hervé Léger is the heritage brand responsible for creating one of the most unapologetically sexy dresses of all time. More than two decades after its inception, and after a lengthy sabbatical from the fashion circuit, we meet the creative director successfully breathing new life and modernity into the bandage dress…

Words by Elaine Lloyd-Jones “Confidence is a woman’s best accessory,” says Christian Juul what makes a dress feel modern.” It was this experience that Nielsen. The Danish creative director has been at the helm of translated into researching concepts, taking inspirational Hervé Léger for a little over two years now, and has already trips, and developing techniques at Hervé Léger. infused the house with a fresh new set of sartorial codes, while While at Nina Ricci, as one would expect, femininity was at the still managing to stay true to its bandage heritage. core. “I learned about delicate fabrics – draping lace, chiffon Having previously worked alongside John Galliano, Raf and more precious materials. At Hervé Léger, I added sheer Simons and Nina Ricci, Nielsen arrived at Hervé Léger inserts, lightweight and soft variegated ribs to a number of with experience in couture, ready-to-wear, maximalism, styles. At Oscar de la Renta, it was all the about red carpet minimalism, and femininity – as well as an inherent ability to glamour – striking colour combinations, major jewels, and design clothes that women want to wear. Since his appointment, that big moment of arrival.” the brand has gone through a distinct transformation. There Having always worked at big-name heritage brands, Nielsen are still the classic woven, or bandage, didn’t hesitate when the call and offer styles that slide on like a second skin came from Hervé Léger back in 2018. “I and suck in everything between the jumped at the chance. I was seduced by “I was seduced by seams – they will remain a mainstay the amazing archive that the brand has the amazing archive and part of the icon’s collection – but – pieces that the original supermodels – pieces worn by the there is also a clean, contemporary Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford feel to Nielsen’s new, and arguably and Karen Mulder wore on numerous original supermodels. improved, version of Hervé Léger. And runways. I’ve always loved an iconic I’ve always loved an there are easy-to-wear pieces which ’90s moment,” he muses. iconic ’90s moment. women of all shapes, sizes and lifestyle Although founded in 1985 as a couture preferences can revel in. brand under Hervé Peugnet – he later Christian Juul Nielsen Understanding women’s bodies and changed his name to Léger at the curves and how to flatter them is part advice of Karl Lagerfeld – it was in the of Hervé Léger’s DNA, and as a designer, Nielsen is drawing early ’90s that the house moved into ready-to-wear, and the upon his wealth of experience to fulfil that brief. “During my first bandage dresses were introduced. The tightly knitted Galliano years, I always draped on the mannequin and rarely body-con styles soon became the essence of the brand, and sketched. I would work through the weekend to create each every celebrity with a body that was able to, slipped into one. garment and present 10 new styles on a Monday. This is how Unfortunately, Peugnet put his trust in a financial backer, I learned to work on a body in a three-dimensional way. At and in 1998 they sold their majority share to the BCBG Max Hervé Léger, I have applied this principle to draped tulle, Azria Group – Max Azria wanted the brand, but not Hervé ruffles and deconstructed sweatshirt styles,” he explains. Peugnet, so he lost the legal rights to the his name of his own “Working for Raf Simons taught me a lot about research and brand and departed. Several years later, in 2007, Max Azria modernity, figuring out what is relevant in the moment, and launched the brand under his own direction, but just 10 years

66

Christian Juul Nielsen (left)and his team perfect a model’s look for the Resort 2020 lookbook

“

You are as strong as your team, and I surround myself with what I consider to be the best people in the industry.”

Christian Juul Nielsen

later, BCBG MaxAzria was filing for bankruptcy, and ABG (Authentic Brands Group) took ownership. It was ABG that appointed Christian Juul Nielsen as creative director, and

by SS19 Hervé Léger was back on the Fashion Week agenda, back on everyone’s radar, and full of promise.

Nielsen’s fresh take on the legacy of the ’90s brand, and his ability to transfer that Hervé Léger energy, reimagined for the modern woman, is what is cultivating its current success.

Celebrating the iconic bandage dress and its tribe of loyal customers, the creative director is also enticing a whole new generation with the newly applied aesthetic.

“I base my collections on a light story. I make moodboards, which can have anything from a passport photo of a friend to a 1930s vintage dress on it. I love female artists from the ’80s like Annie Lennox, Blondie and Kim Wilde.” As a designer, he doesn’t feel restricted by the bandage story – “It’s actually a lot easier to rework the same story over finding a new one every season” – but he’s also constantly evolving the way he applies it. Knitted techniques are added and mixed with bandage styles and oversized pieces. Fringing and sheer panels have added a more flirtatious kind of sex appeal. “I sometimes see an Hervé Léger dress as a modern corset. A lot of lingerie and corset details are featured in the spring collection, as well as new stitching techniques, and plays on silhouettes.” He cites his favourite piece from the Spring/Summer 2020 collection as an oversized white T-shirt dress, yet also insists he “loves a sexy, tight-fitted bandage dress on a girl who is ready for it.”

Nielsen launched his own line, Aknvas – pronounced ah-can-

vas – last year, for which he produces four collections annually.

Unsurprisingly, it already has an A-list following that includes the likes of Emilia Clarke and Kate Bosworth. On his ability to switch from one to the other, he humbly adds, “I believe you are as strong as your team, and I surround myself with what I consider the best people in the industry.”

It’s his ability to step back from Léger to work on his own brand, and to have his finger on the pulse of modern culture, that ensures that both his label and Léger stay relevant.

Its downfall in the first instance was that the body-con look became dated. And while fashion may currently be feeling slightly nostalgic, and the archives teeming with inspiration, modern women with busy lifestyles want easy pieces and wearability too.

Recognising that clothes need to work with women and their lifestyles is part of Nielsen’s design process. “I very much think about real women when I design, Aknvas being very much for a creatively thinking city girl focusing on her career life,” he explains. The collection is a mix of separates for women who have jobs but want to express personality and creativity, and the concept mixes menswear fabrics with silhouettes which are imbued with femininity. Imagine burnt orange peg-leg trousers with a pale pink pinstripe one-shoulder top, or plaid city shorts and a boxy jacket. “The Hervé Léger girl being super-feminine and not afraid to express it,” he adds. “The nature of Hervé Léger dresses is very feminine. And I think by wearing an Hervé Léger dress, that’s one way for a woman to express her femininity.”

Alongside the traditional bandage styles that die-hard fans love, there’s the – perhaps Scandinavian-inspired – minimalism offered by the simplicity of monochromatic looks and the boxy structure certain knitted pieces create.

While Nielsen cites fellow Dane Helena Christensen as one of his “favourite muses” from Léger’s heyday, he also looks to modern-day muses – the girls he surrounds himself with. “I am very social and take inspiration from those around me and how they dress in everyday life.” He also believes that a dress should be worn in such a way that the woman wearing it feels great about herself. “When I help my girlfriends get dressed, I always make sure they feel confident and happy – I would want the same for any woman I know. I find it important that a woman feels good about herself when she puts on a dress, whether it’s a mini or a long-sleeved gown. I’m also obsessed

Eva Herzigová, Cindy Crawford and Karen Mulder at the SS96 show with Hervé Léger

Karen Mulder in a classic Hervé Léger evening gown from the AW95 collection

with details. I will not give up on a piece until it’s perfect.”

Despite there not being any specific woman he’d love to see wearing his designs, one of his most memorable career moments thus far has already been etched into the history books. “Designing the Raf Simons Haute Couture Dior gown that Jennifer Lawrence famously tripped in at the Oscars” has been one of highlights of his journey. The dress was a strapless finale gown from the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, and had a voluminous skirt, which Jennifer’s stylist had instructed her to kick out while she walked. She tripped as she made her way to the stage to accept the Best Actress Award for her role in Silver Linings Playbook during the 85th Academy Awards.

From Dior to Hervé Léger and Aknvas, Nielsen’s success hasn’t altered his ego – he’s still appreciative of any woman who chooses to wear his clothes. “It always makes me happy to see a woman wearing one of my dresses, as there are so many styles available out there. But I hope to empower women by giving them more options.”

He also admits he would love to see more Middle Eastern women in his dresses. “When I went to Abu Dhabi, I was invited to a private island. Everyone knew each other, and the atmosphere was very pleasant. I would love to be in a similar scenario hosted by a woman wearing an Hervé Léger dress – probably one of the fringed gowns,” he tells us. “Middle Eastern women are so beautiful, and very inspiring with their sense of colour and their confidence.”

With his aesthetic championing some more modest designs with longer hemlines, there are definitely styles that will

resonate with women in the region, too. “Hadia Ghaleb recently wore one of my dresses and looked stunning. She has a great energy,” he smiles, describing the Egyptian influencer’s floor-length, pink-fringed gown. Also flying the Léger flag, Saudi blogger Bayan Linjawi was spotted in a fringed skirt from the same collection.

And while his is army of devoted supporters includes modelof-the-moment Bella Hadid and the Kardashian clan – who have never shied away from Hervé Léger’s more risqué choices – it’s worth noting that they also remained loyal to Peugnet as couture consumers until his death in 2017. “Throughout my career, I have been lucky to connect with a lot of very talented people. I always go back to those who have supported me, and do my best to support their careers the way they have supported mine,” he says, adding that it’s “great friends” that keep his confidence alive.

For now, Nielsen is holed up in his office in New York’s Empire State Building “I have my studio there, where I work with my books, images, and vintage pieces. I work almost daily on a live model to make sure my pieces are realistic for a real woman, and not just a sketch,” he reiterates. “ I have a creative team on both brands, and work alongside press and production.” But whenever he can, he escapes to Paris. “I love my Paris apartment. I go there to get inspiration and relax.

I love to be in front of the fireplace with my books and old scrapbooks, listening to Annie Lennox.” With such a wealth of divine inspiration on tap, we can’t wait to see what’s next from the talented mind that reawakened the house of Léger.

68

MOJEH FASHION

Of the Orient A grandchild and great-grandchild of refugees, Zaid Farouki’s design aesthetic is informed by heritage, ancestry and cultural craftsmanship, combined with a contemporary streetwear f lair

Words by Hafsa Lodi

Photography: Aya Nashashibi, Marah Bsoul @tria.artstudio

I

n a fast-paced fashion world driven by speedy, seasonal ‘I Am Sharqi’ is the name of the collection, which features cycles and social media, the story behind a collection is Arabic poetry written by AlSaad, printed on silks and often overshadowed by whatever trend appeal it may attached to T-shirts, sweaters, trenches, denim jackets hold, or by the names of the digital influencers who are and robes, with certain verses embroidered onto sleeves, flaunting the clothing on Instagram. But deep, meaningful pockets and backs of collars. The poem tells of a journey storytelling remains a constant motivator for Dubai- towards discovering one’s identity, which is pre-written, based designer Zaid Farouki, who made certain that the and bonded to a lineage of ancestors. “I’ve fallen from the poetic tale inspiring his latest designs could not possibly cloth of my grandfathers,” is a rough English translation of the first line of the poem, which goes on to state, “ask be overlooked.

“I think the best thing that happened to me was being me of my grandmother, for it is she who weaves the story abroad and coming back with a set of fresh eyes; it was of my being.” While the Arabic script may only ‘speak’ to like looking at my culture from the outside,” says Farouki, native Middle Easterners, AlSaad and Farouki tap into who has a penchant for balancing emotions that will appeal to many culture with contemporary style. third-culture consumers: the poem The best thing that When we meet, he accessorises his talks of being “bewildered” and plain white T-shirt with a handful “alienated” in one’s own land, and happened to me was of chains and bracelets, including “reclaiming” and “returning to” being abroad and coming a silver bangle etched with a verse one’s origin. AlSaad’s own heritage back with fresh eyes; it from the Quran; the waistband of is Bahraini and Sudanese, while was like looking at my his navy trousers, however, is the Farouki is Palestinian-American, truly statement-making aspect of and their partnership sends culture from the outside an important message about his outfit, embroidered with one, Zaid Farouki bold, Arabic word: Sharqi. The diversity, unity and community, in word translates to ‘Oriental’ in a region where Arab youth often English – Farouki’s way of making an ironic, millennial battles with notions of identity amid pan-Arab politics, riposte to the theory of Orientalism developed by in addition to Orientalist and ‘Clash of Civilisations’ Palestinian-American literary critic Edward Said, who narratives frequently imposed on them by the West. argued that in the West, cultures of the Orient are depicted Exploring what it means to be sharqi was an enlightening in exaggerated manners, and labelled as ‘the other.’ Those experience, AlSaad tells MOJEH. “Opening up that who classify all Arabs or Easterners as a single, stereotype- question challenged me to discover new parts of myself. laden culture, are thus called ‘Orientalists.’ In his latest Poetry is an expression of identity itself, and fashion is collection, created in collaboration with Arab poet Fatima wearable – to not just stand and be yourself but to wear AlSaad, Farouki turns the concept of Orientalism on its head yourself; wear your identity, and emotions,” she says. and instead embraces the loaded term. “Entire continents AlSaad previously collaborated with Level Shoes in Dubai, have been blanketed with one word,” he tells MOJEH. but had never before worked so closely with clothing. “I “Now we’re re-claiming what it means to be Oriental.” use words the way he uses cloth,” she says, gesturing

Designer Zaid Faouki and poet Fatima Alsaad collaborated on Zaid’s collection, I Am Sharqi

70

“

More or less, it’s a walking story.

You have to say something through a piece – it’s like a movable sculpture Zaid Farouki

Zaid’s collections are designed to be unisex

to Farouki, for whom ready-to-wear is also a relatively new venture. His I Am Sharqi collection falls under the umbrella of ‘Zaid by Zaid Farouki’ – a RTW label and offshoot of his eponymous brand. The designer started out in the industry as more of an artist than a clothing maker – his label, in fact, began as a bespoke brand that created one-of-a-kind painted garments. “Instead of you buying my painting that hangs on the wall, you could buy my painting that you could wear. It’s just a totally different manner of consuming art,” he explains.

“Moving to ready-to-wear was actually never part of the plan,” says the designer, whose first brush with the retail category came when he was approached by Mini Cooper Middle East in 2017 to design a capsule menswear collection. “That’s when we found there was a gap in the market for menswear designers, and that’s exactly what we do – it’s menswear at the end of the day, but women can wear it too; it’s all unisex,” he says. To emphasise the versatility of his garments across both genders, an editorial shoot for the I Am Sharqi collection, produced by Jordanian creative hub Retailiér, shows photos of men and women each wearing the garments in different ways, questioning traditional gender roles and style norms. In one image, a black suit is worn by both a male (who is bare-chested underneath), and a female (who is styled with a thick choker necklace crafted from traditional Palestinian embroidery). In another, the female wears a navy pyjama set with black heels and traditional Arabian male headwear, while the male wears his with an abaya-like robe. “Never have we called a piece an ‘abaya’ – it’s just a ‘throw’ or ‘cover up’. That’s why it’s worn by both genders,” says Farouki, who adds that he’s inspired by the silhouette of the traditional male bisht, but modernises it with elements of deconstruction to make it a statement piece for both men and women, without any gender-bound characteristion.

Fashion that’s deep and thought-provoking, as opposed to just aesthetically pleasing, is the forte of Farouki, who approaches design from an artist’s perspective. He attended business school in Washington, DC, partly to appease his Middle Eastern parents, before training in fashion at Istituto Marangoni in Milan, followed by Central Saint Martins in London, where he specialised in couture techniques, embroidery and hand-painting. “I come from

Zaid’s collection features traditional, hand-crafted embroidery

a background of sculpting, painting and drawing, and when I went to fashion school, that’s how I looked at every piece,” he says. “More or less, it’s a walking story. You have to say something through a piece – it’s like a movable sculpture.”

Conceived with a calculated mix of history and fantasy, Farouki’s craft was put in the spotlight when he created a hand-crocheted, Swarovski-emblazoned burqa, with an intricate, thigh-length veil, showcased on the runway at Fashion Forward Dubai back in 2016. “Each piece that we create has a story in a wider theme,” says Farouki. “This theme was revival – about an Arab woman who’s the rightful ruler of the region, and she deconstructs menswear in order to further enhance and exert her power. The burqa is the one piece that we sent down the runway that speaks about her humble beginnings.” It’s clear the creative is a storyteller by nature, and the influence of storytelling on his aesthetic is so potent that Farouki designs by theme, rather than the seasonal schedule that the rest of the industry follows.

“Fashion for us is never relatable to seasons. First of all, we’re in Dubai, where I live and create, and there’s one season around here – it’s summer,” he says.

Farouki’s hand-crocheted, Swarovski-studded burqa was far from a runway gimmick – headwear is in fact a long-standing focal point for the designer. With I Am

Sharqi, he presents a gold, hand-embroidered agal (the rope or cord that sits atop traditional Arabian scarves for men), and the couturier’s touch also comes into play with a range of crowns, encrusted with jewels or decorated with hand-embellishments and traditional Palestinian embroidery, reminiscent of heirloom textiles and ancestral techniques passed down from generation to generation.

These, according to Farouki, are intended to embolden and empower the wearer, who will carry the weight of the history and heritage with which his pieces are imbued.

After all, fashion, for Farouki, isn’t just about covering your body, or ticking off trends and designer names – like storytelling, it must send across a message, and make the wearer feel comfortable, confident and in-control, all while being a piece of wearable art. “We believe, almost religiously, that the human form is the best of creations.

So, if you want to add something on top of it and dress it up, it should be the best of creations,” he explains. “And of course, there’s a layer of society, a layer of religion, and a layer of culture – all of those layers add up for you to express yourself.” Topping all of these layers is a badge – or rather, an embroidered patch – that reads I Am Sharqi in a mix of Arabic and English letters, for millennial Easterners to wear on their sleeves with pride.

72

NATURAL SELECTION Feminine and graceful with a utilitarian undertone, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s SS20 collection for Dior displays a bouquet of pretty floral dresses contrasting against hard-wearing tweeds and boyish silhouettes Photography by Andrew Yee Styling by Rocky

Jacket, blouse, shorts, boots, hat, belt and jewellery, DIOR

74

Jacket, blouse, shorts, boots, belt and earring, DIOR

Hat, blouse and jewellery, DIOR

76

Blazer, blouse, shorts, hat and jewellery, DIOR

Dress and jewellery, DIOR

78

Dress, belt and jewellery, DIOR

80

Dress, belt, shoes and jewellery, DIOR

Dress, belt and jewellery, DIOR

82

Opposite: Dress, boots and jewellery, DIOR Model: Kate Rose at The Squad Management | Photographer: Andrew Yee at Atelier Management | Styling: Rocky | Makeup: Marco Antonio Hair: Stephen Low | Photographer’s assistant: David Holbrook | Digital tech: Andreas Klassen

84

NOT ALL THOSE WHO WANDER ARE LOST Photography by Greg Adamski Styling by Natascha Hawke

Top and trousers, STELLA MCCARTNEY

86

Jacket, top and skirt, FENDI

Top and skirt, BURBERRY

88

This page: Dress, CELINE Opposite page: Jacket, trousers and earrings, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

90

Top and skirt, GIVENCHY

Dress and shoes, PRADA

92

Dress, VALENTINO

94

Top and trousers, CHLOÉ

Dress, VALENTINO

96

Cardigan, top, skirt and shoes, MIU MIU

Dress, SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

98

Top and trousers, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Cape, CELINE

100

Dress, BOUGUESSA Model: Madu at MMG | Photographer: Greg Adamski at MMG | Hair and make-up: Manuel Losada at Art Factory Management using Sisley Paris | Stylist’s assistant: Jenna Calvert | Hair and make-up assistant: Raquel Reina

102

JEWELLERY EDIT

NEW SEASON JEWELS Sculptural new shapes and technicolour tones combine in SS20’s most show-stopping adornments with serious statement appeal

VALENTINO

KHAITE

ONE-SIDED Earrings go solo this season, dominating the runways everywhere from Prabal Gurung to Marc Jacobs. The key to nailing a supersized look? Go for an earring that’s statement-making enough to stand out on its own, but with a less-is-more design that highlights your lobes without overtaking your face.

PRABAL GURUNG

MODERN PEARLS Pearls will forever remain a mainstay on the catwalk, and this season was no exception. Making an appearance in just about every guise, whether classic or Baroque, from single drop earrings and layered necklaces to headpieces at Khaite, girls with pearls will be everywhere this summer.

Photography: Gorunway.com Words: Lucy Bloom

ZIMMERMANN

CHUNKY CHAINS Chains got bigger and bigger on the spring runways with chunky links being seen all over, from giant sparkling versions at Brandon Maxwell to layered beaded styles at Zimmermann. Perfect for updating your current wardrobe, go as bold as you dare in classic metallics or contemporary resins.

104 ANKLE CUFFS

PRADA

Jewellery and shoes collide with this new approach to embellishment. Continuing the trend, Daniel Lee launched last season with Bottega Veneta’s popular chain-adorned mesh pumps, and many designers garnished the shoes in their spring line-up with metal links and crystal strands.

JW ANDERSON

COLOUR ME BEAUTIFUL This season embraced an explosion of colour with rocks in every shade of the spectrum. From bright beaded floral designs at Ulla Johnson and glittering gemstones at Brandon Maxwell to the mismatched rainbow at Marc Jacobs, accessorising your life in glorious technicolour is the way forward.

ULLA JOHNSON

BACK TO NATURE Jewellery doesn’t need to be made of diamonds to be precious.

Stunning shell parures at Prada, wooden brooches at Miu Miu, and festival-perfect raffia necklaces at Simone Rocha made for a natural selection that elevated the most humble materials into highly desirable, high-fashion pieces.

PACO RABANNE

XL HOOPS Hoop earrings never really left the fashion arena, but this season, huge hoops are de rigueur. Proenza Schouler sent a crop of power hoops down its runway – thick, gold, and doublehooped for extra impact – while designers like Oscar de la Renta explored the oversized look using unexpected materials.

PROENZA SCHOULER

SPINNING AROUND Jewellery had a ball for spring, with glittering globes of metal and glass suspended from ear lobes, and shimmering spheres strung together.

At Bottega Veneta, pendant orbs were draped down the spine, while Paco Rabanne gave the statement necklace a modern update.

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

STATEMENT COLLARS There’s something about a structured metal collar that appeals to both maximalist and minimalist sensibilities. For spring, standout examples included the sculptural leaf-like collars at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alberta Ferretti’s graduated metal bib, and Gucci’s more detailed, antique silver rendition.

106

JEWELLERY EDIT

TRENDING

From crystal creatures to blockbuster gems and a diamond as big as a tennis ball, we reveal what’s trending in the world of jewels

Louis Vuitton Diamond

A RARE FIND When Louis Vuitton revealed it had bought the second-largest rough diamond ever discovered – an incredible 1,758-carat stone, roughly the size of a tennis ball – it created a frenzy of excitement.

The ‘Sewelô’ diamond, meaning ‘rare find’ in the southern African language of Tswana, was discovered at the Karowe mine near the Kalahari Desert and is covered in a thin layer of black carbon, meaning a window will have to be cut into the stone to be able to assess its potential for various cuts and sizes.

VIRGIL ABLOH’S STAPLES Want a piece of Virgil Abloh’s new jewellery collection?

You’ll have to complete a questionnaire application. Titled ‘Office Supplies’, the collaboration with Jacob & Co was borne of Abloh’s desire to create something reminiscent of the bling era, while playing on his memories of making necklaces out of paper clips when he was a child. The collection will be sold like works of art, so in order to obtain one of Abloh’s money clips, bracelets, earrings or necklaces in yellow-, white- or rose-gold, with white or yellow diamonds, you’ll first need to get his personal stamp of approval.

Virgil Abloh Office Supplies

GREAT AND SMALL All creatures of the earth and sky come together in spring’s marvellous menagerie of precious gems

Larkspur and Hawk Rose Quartz Earrings

HOT STONES Miranda Kerr keeps hers in her bra, Adele used them to combat her stage fright and Victoria Beckham never goes anywhere without her particular

GUCCI

favourite, black obsidian, in her handbag. If you’re crystal-curious, knowing where to start your research can seem daunting, as there’s almost a stone for every occasion. Examples include stabilising carnelian, which restores vitality and motivation as well as stimulating creativity; black tourmaline, which repels and protects against any negativity; and rose quartz, which opens your heart and encourages unconditional love.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Ana de Armas in the long-awaited James Bond movie, No Time To Die CHOPARD

DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER Chopard has joined the cast of the long-awaited James Bond movie, No Time to Die. Pieces from the jewellery house’s Green Carpet collection will make an appearance in the 25th Bond film, worn by Ana de Armas, who plays CIA agent Paloma opposite Daniel Craig. She wears a Chopard necklace set with 43 carats of pear-shaped diamonds, a matching bracelet with 82 carats of pear-shaped and round-brilliant diamonds and earrings set with another 14 carats of diamonds. The actress will also wear Chopard on the red carpet at the film’s premieres, set to happen in November.

TIFFANY & CO

108

JEWELLERY EDIT

HAUTE HIGHLIGHTS The most precious gems that made their debut on the season’s couture catwalks

Schiaparelli Haute Couture

“

From gemstone-encrusted cuffs to Grecian symbols, glittering creations complemented exquisite couture gowns.

Dior Haute Couture

A

longside show-stopping gowns and one-off ensembles, a constellation of beautiful jewellery made its debut during Couture Week. From gemstone-encrusted cuffs and gold latticework to Grecian symbols and giant feathers, an array of exceptional creations complemented the display of exquisite gowns that made their Paris debut for the latest Haute Couture collections.

With artist Judy Chicago’s works from The Divine Feminine as the backdrop, Dior’s couture offering showcased accessories inspired by ancient Greek motifs and mythology, with goddesses sweeping the runway in diaphanous gowns adorned with striking golden jewellery.

Dior Haute Couture

The house’s first look comprised mismatched earrings in the shape of the moon and an ancient bee goddess, dangling from a version of Dior’s now iconic Tribale earrings, with one pearl at the front and another larger pearl behind the lobe. But unlike the modern classic the Tribale has become, these pearls were Baroque and twisted, rather than perfectly cultured orbs. Delicate gold-toned headbands topped off elegantly plaited hairstyles, with that same bee goddess front and centre, while necklaces adorned with crescent moons, butterflies, leaves, flowers and sheaves of wheat were flattened to sit flush against the décolleté.

At Valentino, jewellery was either completely absent, or

110

“

Earrings reigned supreme as the ultimate jewellery box hero, whether feathered, oversized, or asymmetric.

Givenchy Haute Couture

superbly present in the form of giant, feathered earrings.

Dyed in contrasting shades to match the chosen garments, plumes fanned out to enormous scale, suspended from long strands of crystal beads, sometimes so large they brushed against the models’ chests or splayed out from the jawline. In some looks, feathers appeared to subtly peek out from behind the ear, only just visible and held in place by crystal beads surrounding the upper edges.

Earrings continued as the jewellery-box hero at Elie Saab, where vast chandelier shoulder-sweepers were the focus. Dripping with teardrop-shaped crystals, and overlaid geometric shapes, a glorious draping of crystal and metal cascaded over one model’s ear while huge,

Givenchy Haute Couture

interrupted hoop earrings like floral wreaths of gold dazzled dramatically on another. Givenchy’s giant silk thread tassels hung from a metal ear clip, becoming more fantastical and colourful as the show progressed; while rainbow Perspex discs made for massive, modernist earrings at Armani Privé, with technicolour crystals making up multi-strand necklaces alongside super-sized fringe necklaces as big as breastplates.

Brooches reigned supreme at Schiaparelli. Brilliantly featuring blinking eyes, venus-flytrap earrings, delicate arm jewellery, and golden eye-frames, the artisan mask spectacles combined with statement earrings were the undoubted stars of the show.

Valentino Haute Couture

112

JEWELLERY EDIT

LAB-GROWN LUXURY Eco-friendly and ethically sourced, lab-grown diamonds are a girl’s new best friend Words by Lucy Bloom

KIMAÏ

LARK AND BERRY TAYLOR AND HART

J

ust as with our clothes, there are more opportunities transforming the market, offering both improved pricing than ever to be sustainable and environmentally and transparency. And as a new generation of millennial friendly when it comes to buying jewellery. Diamonds, customers move away from conventional diamonds, a labthanks to their vast heritage and reputation as the most grown alternative is gaining traction. Whether in the form prized precious stones, will doubtless always be a girl’s best of engagement rings or statement red-carpet jewels, labfriend. While leading jewellery houses promote responsible grown diamonds are elementally, physically and visually mining, using known sources, recycled materials and identical to a mined diamond, with their creators hoping certified mines, many labels are now choosing to use to transform the industry. laboratory-grown diamonds rather than their natural Using advanced technology, these diamonds are created in counterparts, in an effort to have a more ethical and two ways – either by using extreme pressure and heat, or a super-heated plasma – but essentially the work is done sustainable footprint.

It was just over a year ago that the Duchess of Sussex inside a machine rather than underground. Once ‘grown’ stepped out wearing a pair of glittering diamond earrings they are considered identical to diamonds and follow the that, rather than being passed down through the family, same system of ratings based on cut, clarity, colour and carat. had been grown in a lab. It took A mined diamond usually exchanges just five days to grow the diamonds hands 10 to 15 times before getting adorning Markle’s ears, according to its final owner, a chain which Created in a lab, instead is now bypassed, offering more to Sidney Neuhaus, co-founder of of mined from the transparency on the diamond’s ethical jewellery brand Kimaï, the earth, these gems are company that made them. Based in journey. transforming the market, This small slice of the $80 billion Antwerp, the capital of the world’s diamond business, both she and her diamond industry appears to be offering better pricing co-founder Jessica Warch grew up in broadening. Last year, Dover Street and transparency. diamond families. Nauhaus’s father Market launched a project with Diamond Foundry, together with owns a diamond jewellery shop, and her grandfather worked for De Beers, making his career in six designers, including Delfina Delettrez and Sophie diamonds after World War Two. “My partner and I both come Bille Brahe, who created jewellery in their own, unique from diamond trading families in Antwerp, Belgium, and styles using lab-grown diamonds. And earlier this year, have seen first-hand the joy diamonds can bring,” reveals Browns Fashion began stocking its first lab-grown diamond Jessica. “But over the years, we also became aware of the and 18K recycled gold brand, Kimaï, which sits alongside destruction they can cause. When we discovered that man- its ‘Conscious’ offering. As to whether or not man-made made diamonds are chemically and physically identical to diamonds can ever replace ‘the real thing’, opinions are mined ones, we knew we had to do something.” mixed. There will always be a premium attached to mined The technology behind lab diamonds has made crucial gems, all truly fine jewellery and history’s great jewels have advances in recent years, allowing companies to grow higher been made with mined diamonds, so they are unlikely to ever quality diamonds more rapidly and cheaper than before, be dismissed entirely. But it’s undeniable that man-made subsequently increasing competition between lab-diamond diamonds are advancing the future of a very traditional and mined-diamond companies. The former’s gems are industry, with an impact that cannot be undermined.

114

The

Fabric of Fashion Chanel unveils its first High Jewelry collection dedicated entirely to the House’s iconic tweed Photographed by Vivienne Balla Styled by Noa Guez

Tweed FrangĂŠ asymmetrical earrings in white gold and diamonds, CHANEL High Jewelry

116

Tweed FrangĂŠ necklace and bracelet in white gold and diamonds, both CHANEL High Jewelry

118

Tweed Frangé ring in white gold and diamonds, Tweed Brodé ring in white gold and diamonds, Tweed Contrasté ring in yellow gold, platinum, cultured pearls, onyx and diamonds, all CHANEL High Jewelry

Tweed BrodĂŠ watch in white gold and diamonds, CHANEL High Jewelry

120

Tweed Graphique brooch in white gold, onyx, and diamonds, CHANEL High Jewelry

122

Tweed BrodĂŠ earrings in white gold and diamonds, CHANEL High Jewelry

Tweed Graphique earrings and necklace in white gold, onyx and diamonds, all CHANEL High Jewelry Model: Joy Van Der Eecken at Oui Management | Photographer: Vivienne Balla | Make-up: Ania Grzeszczuk at Calliste Agency | Hair stylist: Fidel Fernandez | Photographer’s assistant: Tamas Balla

124

RALPH & RUSSO

BEAUTY EDIT

SPRING FLING

New season beauty treats to fall in love with

126

DIOR BEAUTY

BARKHA BEAUTY

GAME OF TONES

RESPONSIBLE BEAUTY

Peter Philips’ summer make-up collection for Dior Beauty is

On our radar this year is Barkha Beauty, a Dubai-based

an ode to the sports world. His rules: excel and have fun while

make-up brand that has quickly established a loyal A-lister

reinventing a healthy, vibrant and playful look. The Colour

following. It’s introductory line of Matte Liquid Lipsticks –

Games collection boasts high-performance formulas and lively

which are cruelty and paraben free – were inspired by Barkha’s

stadium colours enhanced by the sun for active women who

hunt to find the perfect nude matte lipstick. The formula

make summer their playground. Colour me happy.

comes in eight shades with a luxurious moisturizing finish.

CHANEL BEAUTY CHARLOTTE TILBURY

NATURAL GLOW

FOR THE LOVE OF LIPSTICK

Les Beiges Summer of Glow is Chanel’s newest collection,

Finding the perfect nude lip is like finding the perfect man:

inspired by the aura and free spirit of Mademoiselle Chanel. The

something you can’t get wrong. Cue Charlotte Tilbury’s

collection has one goal in mind: a sun-kissed healthy glow that

new collection of three bridal lipsticks: Wedding Belles,

gives a fresh-from-vacation look. These warm shades with coral

Mrs Kisses and First Dance in a limited edition Matte

shimmers will be your daily summer make-up go-to.

Revolution formula. Another reason to say I do.

Clockwise from left: Balancing Force Oil Control Toner; C Rush Brightening Gel Creme; Banana Bright Eye Creme; Truth Serum Vitamin C Serum; Phat Glow Facial Mask, all OLE HENRIKSON at SEPHORA

128

VERSACE

THE TREND: FIERY FACE We saw it at Versace SS20, and Hermès’ new lipstick line was inspired entirely by the house’s iconic orange. This season punchy, orange-red tones will add radiance to any complexion, whether it’s on the cheek lip or lid.

2

3

1

1. Ultra Slim High Intensity Lipstick in I Live For, HOURGLASS | 2. Matte Lipstick in Orange Boît, HERMÉS | 3. Summer Look Eyeshadow Palette, DIOR BEAUTY

SPICY SCENTS From Dior’s new Oud to Henry Jacques’ black musk, these rich scents make the perfect gift for Eid… or for yourself.

1 2

3

1. Neroli, CLIVE CHRISTIAN | 2. Musk Oil Black, HENRY JACQUES | 3. Opium Neon, YSL BEAUTY | 4. Oud Rosewood, CHRISTIAN DIOR

4

Clockwise from left: Rouge Hermès Matte Lipstick in Rouge Casaque; Rouges Hermès Poppy Lip Shine; Rouge Hermès Lip Care Balm; Rouge Hermès Satin Lipstick in Corail Fou; Rouges Hermès Matte Lipstick in Rose Inoui; Rouge Hermès Satin Lipstick in Violet Intense, all HERMÉS BEAUTY

130 NEW SKINCARE ON THE BLOCK Black Rose Eye Contour Fluid, SISLEY PARIS

Rose Gold Brightening Facial Treatment Mask, 111 SKIN

MASTER OF MASKS This month, renowned beauty brand 111Skin is launching their Master Masking collection in Dubai. The line of restorative masks ensure a targeted, immersive treatment

BRIGHT EYES

that restores and refreshes all skin types, whether it’s

Sisley reveals Black Rose Eye Contour Fluid, infused with Black Rose that

Available at Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdale’s - Dubai

for firming, hydrating or brightening. Take your pick.

boosts the eyes with radiance and freshness to give a revived and smoothed eye contour area, fading dark shadow. After one month, under-eye circles and puffiness are less visible and the area is left intensely moisturized, nourished, with fine lines less noticeable.

BRAU

Serum Serum Serum, FOREO

THE SALON

TRIPLE ACTION

Nestled in The Springs Souk, Brau is a luxurious new salon that offers

Foreo have launched the Serum Serum Serum, a new

premier microblading, semi-permanent make-up, and facials. By fusing art

Micro-Capsule Youth Preserve skincare hero. Designed to

with beauty, Brau aspires to provide a differentiated experience for clients

firm, renew and replenish the skin with a combination of

who are seeking the best results when it comes to their brows, lashes, face

hydrating hyaluronic acid and squalane, this new product

or skin. The comprehensive treatment list, which includes Microblading,

has been designed specifically to help combat the signs

Brow Lamination and Lash Lifts use the latest technology, and the salon

of ageing. Lightweight yet potent, it promises skin that

only employs industry experts. It’s all in the detail. +971 50 4037551

looks firmer, healthier and younger. Available at Sephora

Clockwise from left: Glory Oil, ECO SONYA; Immediate Moisture Facial Hydrosol, AESOP; Salt Scent Goddess Glow Organic Perfume Oil, SALT BY HENDRIX; Body Treatment Oil, GROWN ALCHEMIST; Legendary Amazon Oil, RAHUA, Superstar Retinoid Night Oil, PESTLE & MORTAR

MAX MARA

132

BEAUTY IN FOCUS

1

1. Forever Skin Glow, DIOR | 2. Duo Eyeshadow in Habanera, NARS | 3. Full Frontal Mascara, FENTY BEAUTY | 4. Eyeshadow in Mint Condition, MAC | 5.

Obsessions Eyeshadow Palette in Mint, HUDA BEAUTY

2 CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

4

COOL TONES With warm hues the make-up go-to for years, cool pastels have finally made their way back. Mintgreen lids were a SS20 fashion week favourite, and look super-fresh as temperatures start to rise.

5

Photography: Gorunway.com

3

SIES MARJAN

1 1. Hello Happy Foundation, BENEFIT | 2. Blush in Subtil Pink Intensely, LANCÔME | 3. Khol Couture Waterproof Liner in Peony, GIVENCHY | 4. Mineral Nude Luminizer in Glow Pink, DIOR | 5. Les 4 Ombres in Warm Memories, CHANEL

2 TADASHI SHOJI

4

3 OVER-THE-TOP BLUSH

5

Forget about a natural flush – this season is all about getting heavy with your blusher brush. With intense, ’70s-inspired application across cheeks, temples, and onto the eyelid, it’s an instant way to look hot – literally.

134

ACCEPTABLE IN THE ’80S Be inspired by the wild abandon and colour-me-happy attitude of the more-is-more ’80s dance-floor divas

Photographed by Alena Sazonova Make-up by Iris Moreau

Skin: Triple Lipid Restore 242 Cream, SKINCEUTICALS; Ultra Le Teint Ultrawear All Day Comfort Flawless Finish Foundation in Beige Dore 01, CHANEL BEAUTY; Cream Blush OR250, DECORTE; Killawatt Freestyle Highlighter in Mean Money/Hu$tla Baby 2, FENTY BEAUTY | Eyes: Eye Colour Quad in Pretty Baby, TOM FORD BEAUTY; Phenomen’Eyes Mascara in 01 Black, GIVENCHY; Brow Definer in Medium Brown, ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS | Lips: K.i.s.s.i.n.g in The Duchess, CHARLOTTE TILBURY

136

Skin: Skin Caviar, LA PRAIRIE; The Foundation in BF20, CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ; Luminous Blush in Snapdragon, BECCA; Afterglow Overlust Cheek Palette, NARS | Eyes: Eye Colour Quad in Photosynthesex, TOM FORD BEAUTY; Mascara L’Obscur in Black, GUCCI BEAUTY Eyebrow Kit, GUERLAIN | Lips: Rouge Dior in 548 Coral Mood, DIOR BEAUTY

138

Skin: Abeille Royale Youth Watery Anti-Aging Oil, GUERLAIN; The Soft Fluid Long Wear Foundation in 220, LA MER; Cheek to Chic in First Love, CHARLOTTE TILBURY; Couture Highlighter in Or Pearl, YVES SAINT LAURENT | Eyes: 3 Couleurs Tri(o)blique in Coral Canvas 653, DIOR BEAUTY; Faux Cils Longest Lash Mascara in Black, CHANTECAILLE; Brow Gel Comb, TOM FORD BEAUTY | Lips: L’Absolu Rouge Hydrating Lipstick in 124 Rose Petale, LANCÔME

140

Skin: Blue Serum, 406 Millicent Rose BEAUTY; Hyaluronic Hydra Foundation in 100N Fair, BY TERRY; Luxury Lip & Cheek Oil in Heavenly Hopp, RODIN OLIO LUSSO; The Glow Highlighter, LA MER | Eyes: EYEdols Eye Shadow in Gold Standard, PAT McGRATH; Eye-Conic Mascara & Eyeliner Set in Brynn, THRIVE CAUSEMETICS; Beauty Expressioniste Brow Pomade, SURRATT | Lips: Rouge à Lèvres Voile Lipstick in 406 Millicent Rose, GUCCI BEAUTY

142

This page: Skin: The Serum, CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ; Flawless Base Foundation in 5, IL MAKIAGE; InnerGlow Cheek Powder Blush in Medusa Pink, SHISEIDO; Beauty Glow Stick Glistening Illuminator in Spotlight, MARC JACOBS BEAUTY | Eyes: Eyes To Mesmerise in Bette, CHARLOTTE TILBURY; Hypnôse Custom Volume Mascara in Noir, LANCÔME; Frame Your Face Pencil in Dark Brown, WANDER BEAUTY | Lips: Luxe Matte Lipstick in Mauve Over, BOBBI BROWN; Brilliant Gloss in Love, CHANTECAILLE Opposite: Skin: Bio Lifting Cream, CHANTECAILLE; Luminous Skin Foundation in 1.5 Fair-Neutral, ARMANI BEAUTY; Baby Cheeks Blush Stick-Petal, WESTMAN ATELIER; Face Illuminator in Addiction, LAURA MERCIER | Eyes: Paint Stick in Cyan, MAC; Les Yeux Noirs Lash Amplifying Lacquer in Noir, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN BEAUTY; Phyto Sourcils 3-in-1 eyebrow pencil in Brun, SISLEY PARIS | Lips: Rouge Allure Luminous Intense Lip Colour in 168 Rouge Ingenue, CHANEL BEAUTY

Model: Jenna West at Vision Los Angeles | Photographer: Alena Sazonova | Make-up: Iris Moreau | Hair: Ricky Fraser

144

MOJEH TRAVEL

THE DESTINATION During these uncertain times, looking after our health is key.

When it is safe to travel once more, escape to these tranquil destinations for your physical and emotional recovery. From nourishing ayurvedic retreats to secluded meditation and yoga, discover the very best breaks to suit every wellness want

TRAVEL EDIT

THE RETREAT AT BLUE LAGOON REYKJAVÍK, ICELAND Surrounded by endless vistas of moss-covered black lava and whorls of steam, the bath-like lake is the famous Blue Lagoon, recently extended to create a private watery paradise that’s exclusive to The Retreat. The spa, which is carved from volcanic rock, offers a signature in-water massage, performed above the boundary where Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet. Then there’s the cavernous Ritual Room, where you can exfoliate with mineral and lava salts, purify with silica and hydrate with algae, before lying back in 39°C therapeutic waters. bluelagoon.com/accommodation/retreat-hotel

146

KAMALAYA KOH SAMUI, THAILAND There’s a special magic at Kamalaya, from the cascading streams shimmering with fish, to the lantern-strung trees at night. But the ultimate magic is in the Structural Revival programme, a fusion of mind and movement that pinpoints skeletal and muscular weakness through physiotherapy, reformer Pilates and myofascial release. This is combined with fortifying therapies, including the Three Treasures, a combination of tui na massage and reiki, which together will stimulate energy, enabling it to flow where it’s needed, not just physically, but mentally too. kamalaya.com

EUPHORIA MYSTRAS, GREECE Among the orange and olive trees of the Peloponnese peninsula, you will quite literally find Euphoria. This haven of wellbeing marries the ancient with the modern, and the spiritual with the scientific, in a way that’s rarely seen in a spa. The Inner and Outer Glow programme uses a blood test to check levels of glycogen, glucose and glutathione. A hammam and a massage then relieve painful muscle tensions and ease your body into the next stage of the programme.

After just two days, the combination of massage, mindfulness, energy treatments and many hours spent floating in the outdoor pool looking at the forest will ensure that sleep comes effortlessly. euphoriaretreat.com

ALILA JABAL AKHDAR OMAN, UAE At a lofty 1,981m above sea level, and overhanging a dramatic canyon, nature becomes the awe-inspiring backdrop to Alila Jabal Akhdar. The Al Hajar Mountains are at the core of Alila’s Mystical Mountain programme, which includes daily sunrise yoga, meditation on the summit, and exhilarating abseiling from the hotel’s viewing platform to the gorge below. You can request any spa treatment to take place on the private and tranquil Spa Arbour, a treatment bed at the edge of the canyon, delivering stunning views across the gorge during the day, and a vista of shimmering stars at night. alilahotels.com/jabalakhdar

148

THE ULTIMATE IN SECLUSION For that added feeling of escape

ALILA KOH RUSSEY, CAMBODIA If you are in need of more solitude, Alila has made it supremely easy.

An hour’s flight from Siem Reap is Sihanoukville, where you’ll find the fabulously remote Koh Russey island within 30 minutes of landing.

The spa is a simple yet tranquil oasis with remedial massages and scrubs. alilahotels.com/kohrussey

POST RANCH INN CALIFORNIA, USA Named after a family of early homesteaders, Post Ranch Inn blends into a high ridgeline, giving panoramic views of the Pacific. Lodgings resemble treehouses with grassed-over roofs. Each structure is an architectural marvel, comprised of a simple yet striking blend of wood, stone, steel and glass.

Between soaking in infinity pools and yoga sessions in a yurt, you should try an aromatherapy massage that uses local Big Sur Flower Essences, or explore your animal power in a shaman session, drawing on Native American traditions. postranchinn.com

SAN LUIS SOUTH TYROL, ITALY The focus here is all about nature, and San Luis is made up of a collection of chalets and tree houses. There are no regimes or programmes to follow, and beyond the polished wooden spa, there is nothing of a typical retreat about this unique place. But, thanks to the stunning views, clean air and total serenity, mindfulness doesn’t have to be taught – it just happens. sanluis-hotel.com

SIERRA GRANDE LODGE & SPA NEW MEXICO, USA

ONE&ONLY PORTONOVI, MONTENEGRO The first ultra-luxury resort to be opened in Europe by the brand, at the heart of The One&Only Portonovi, Montenegro, is Chenot Espace –

Thanks to its natural geothermal springs, this area was once a place

a first-of-its-kind wellness concept by the acclaimed Medical Spa that offers

of healing for Native American tribes. Today, these springs feed

a transformative journey of detoxing and resetting the body, based on the

bubbling hot tubs where you can sink into mineral-rich waters. For

Chenot Method. With advanced diagnostic tests and targeted therapeutic

further opportunities of meditation, step out onto the sands of the

treatments combined with the Chenot Diet plans, each element is carefully

White Sands National Park, the largest gypsum desert in the world.

woven together to achieve the most beneficial results in dreamy surroundings.

sierracountynewmexico.info/lodging/sierra-grande-lodge/

Oneandonlyresorts.com

AMANPURI PHUKET, THAILAND With its secluded coconut plantation setting, private beach and glamorous pavilion homes, it’s hard to imagine a more restful island retreat. At its core sits the spa, an ebony-and-glass temple to wellness where modern medicine and traditional therapies sit alongside each other. Consultations are spot-on, and the prescribed immersions – a blend of bodywork, fitness, mindfulness and nutrition – work to strengthen and rebalance, sometimes with IV infusions, qigong or cryotherapy. They’re called immersions for a reason – once you step out of the spa, complexions change and, ultimately, mindsets shift. aman.com/resorts/amanpuri

COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE BALI, INDONESIA The vastness of Como encourages you to stray from the welltrodden path into the thick of the jungle, where you’ll find gloriously isolated open-air pavilions in which massages are performed to the sound of nearby waterfalls. The spa is the cornerstone of the wellbeing programmes that Como has become renowned for, and includes bespoke retreats. Yoga, performed alfresco in a pavilion high above the treetops, stretches both your mind and body, altogether giving a complete sense of peace and calm. comohotels.com/en/comoshambhalaestate

150

MOJEH CULTURE

Lama wears ethically-produced jumpsuit by Deborah Henning

WELLNESS WARRIORS The Dubai entrepreneurs dedicated to making us healthier and happier from the inside out Words by Lucy Wildman Photography by Ausra Osipaviciute

LAMA JAMMAL Founder of Mamalu Kitchen

“I had three boys under two years of age when I decided that it would be great if someone came up with a concept to help busy mums feed their families delicious, healthy, fuss-free food,” smiles Lama Jammal. “So I decided that person should be me!” Graduating from Switzerland’s elite hospitality management school Glion before working at some of the world’s finest hotels, Lama transitioned into the fashion industry before deciding her true calling was actually the kitchen. “I’m obsessed with food and cooking, and have been ever since I remember,” says Lama. “My mum is the best cook I know, and I was always her shadow in the kitchen when I was a child. She instilled the values of healthy eating in all of us from a very young age, and made everything we ate from scratch using fresh, whole foods, so I grew up knowing what delicious food that was good for you tasted like.” Kicking off her business in 2016 teaching nannies and housekeepers of the busy working mums of Dubai how to cook nutritious meals using organic and hormone-free ingredients, Mamalu Kitchen quickly grew into hosting cooking classes for every member of the family. Recently opening the first branch of her cooking school at Depachika in The Palm Jumeirah’s Nakheel Mall, Lama’s goal is to make Mamulu Kitchen the “helping hand” every family needs to ensure home-cooked food is on the table every day, helping them to stay happy and healthy. “Our mission always has been, and always will be to feed families healthy and delicious, fuss-free-food,” says Lama. “We’re always on the go these days, so whether it’s by joining in our cooking classes, following our recipes online or stocking up on our Eazy Freezy products, Mamalu is there to make every family’s mealtimes as wholesome, healthy and hassle-free as possible.” Mamalukitchen.com

152

Elena wears sustainable fabric skirt by KAGE, and a recycled cotton T-shirt

ELENA KINANE

Founder and managing director, Greenheart Organic Farms

“When we first started out, our shop was only open two days a week, because we didn’t have enough vegetables to fill our shelves every day,” recalls Greenheart Organic Farms’ founder and managing director, Elena Kinane.

“Now we deliver all over the UAE and offer a huge selection of organic produce grown here on our farms, as well as a selection of the best organic goods imported from India, Lebanon, the South of France, Sri Lanka and the UK.” MOJEH meets Elena on a busy Thursday morning in her farm shop in Dubai’s Barsha South, just as the day’s delivery has arrived. “Greenheart grows genuine organic vegetables, greens and fruit in the UAE desert. We build soil, make many of our own fertilizers and remedies, and collect our own seeds,” she explains, showing us around the shop packed with woven baskets loaded with juicy home-grown heirloom tomatoes, lush bunches of herbs and fresh,crunchy apples. “We’ve developed an amazing set of techniques for organic desert farming, are one hundred per cent chemical-free and grow over 140 different varieties, many of which are unique to the gulf region and beyond.”

Elena’s idea for her business took root from her own personal needs back in 2012. “I wasn’t well, and doctors weren’t really able to help me regain my health, so I changed my lifestyle and began eating better, as well as relying upon alternative treatments like acupuncture,” she explains. “Then I decided to start growing organic vegetables for myself. I was taught basic gardening skills by my great aunt when I was growing up, so I wasn’t a complete novice!” she laughs.

“It took me a while, but eventually, I became hooked on it, and teamed up with some Emirati friends who had farms here. It wasn’t until the birth of my daughter though that I felt the urge not only to grow produce for my family and friends, but for the families around me. The more success I had, the more I wanted to shout out to the world, ‘Look what we can do! We don’t need chemicals to grow food. We are doing this right in the middle of the UAE desert, and look what we can achieve without using all those nasty toxins!’”

Growing up in Germany and moving to Dubai in 1995, Elena’s mother laid the foundations for her daughter’s interest in the environment and the importance of a healthy, natural diet.

“

The more success we had, the more I wanted to shout out to the world ‘Look what we can do! Look what we can achieve without using all those nasty toxins!

Elena Kinane

“My mum was light years ahead of most people back in the 1970s,” she smiles. “She made sure I ate plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, and really limited my intake of refined sugar and meat. She’d also inherited an old book of herbal remedies, and whenever I got sick, she’d go to the local herbal shop and buy custom-made herbal teas to make me feel better. So when I got sick as an adult, I thought back to how I stayed healthy as a child, and this is how it began.” With the aim of making the way they farm and conduct their business the norm for fresh food production and retailing, Elena wants to be able to extend the reach of Greenheart Organic Farms, so more people can eat healthy, sustainable food, as well change consumer behaviour. “Although it has improved in the UAE in the last few years, and we have a large following of loyal and supportive customers, overall we have a long way to go,” she explains. “For most consumers, comfort takes priority over doing the right thing. We have to face the fact that we can no longer gloss over the truth. If we want our children to be able to have clean water, biodiversity and to breathe unpolluted air, we all need to change our consumer habits now, before it’s too late. We are very serious about the work we do here, and every decision we make centres around one question: ‘Is this the right thing to do?’ I strongly believe that in the future, the success of a business will no longer be measured in monetary terms, but also by the way in which it conducts itself, and how it impacts the planet.” Greenheartuae.com

154

EDA GUNGOR Founder, SEVA

It’s one of Dubai’s true hidden gems. Nestled behind Jumeirah Beach Road in a sprawling villa surrounded by stunning gardens, SEVA – known up until very recently as Life’nOne – is famed as the wellness mainstay of the city, offering a holistic, whole-human approach to the health of mind, body and spirit.

Founded by Eda Gungor in 2014, within it’s whitewashed walls you’ll find studios for yoga and meditation; a wellbeing centre for seminars, training and international guests; a conscious shop for ethically-sourced, powerful products and wellbeing tools, as well as Table, the first exclusively plant-based cafe in Dubai, which offers a highly conscious menu and the chance to enjoy connectivity to your surroundings – tellingly, without wi-fi. “I’m fromIstanbul, and had been working as a food and travel journalist as well as in some other corporate entities, but never really felt quite aligned,” says SEVA’s founder, Eda Gungor. “Looking at the bigger picture, I realized that I needed space to heal myself, challenge myself, to grow as a person, and learn how to express myself. A series of fortuitous events led me to realize that opening a spiritual centre and cafe in dubai was what I was meant to do, and my journey through meditation, yoga, esoterica, plant-based eating and community-building became the focal point of my vision.”

Starting out as a wellbeing centre with a juice and smoothie corner, which, due to demand, soon became the first plantbased cafe in Dubai, SEVA is now the go-to destination for the wellness-focused community, and those looking for the best international therapists from a variety of different disciplines.

“What we aim to do is expand consciousness, align with nature, encourage people to enjoy life as an experience and live each moment with all of their feelings and emotions. We aim to bring joy to everything we do and in each person’s life,” explains Eda. Attracting an eco-conscious community that practice a healthy lifestyle, and are considerate of the fragility of the planet, Eda says that once people start expanding their awareness and therefore understanding themselves better, the changes they see happening to their health and general wellness often encourages them to go a few steps further in

“

Do I have a life mantra? Yes. I can do this.

It’s OK. I am” Eda Gungor

embracing a more considered lifestyle. “Much like how the community grows and develops, so too has the business,” says Eda. “This place was Life’n One for seven years. The nature of the universe is change, and that time came for us.

SEVA is the result of deep reflection on the way we wish to serve our community, the region and the world at large. It’s about moving from the individual, to the collective. SEVA is about knowing that what you do matters on this planet – and that service to others can come in many unique forms – and acknowledging that the desination is never the goal, it is always the journey.” With the community comprising an evergrowing group of open-minded individuals who are aware that current times are vastly different from what they used to be, with a desire to align with the new world and expand their awareness, what gets Eda up way before dawn every morning is the drive to share all the information she has been given access to, and strengthen the people around her. “Do I have a life mantra?” she laughs? “Yes. I can do this. It’s OK. I am.” With so much uncertainty in the world right now, Eda is well aware of the support people seek to help them lead a healthier lifestyle in mind, body and spirit. “This is the time to finish that book, learn a new language, and find something to focus on to empower you. Follow the guidelines offered and stay safe. Try to do yoga or meditation daily. Choose a mantra, and remind your loved ones just how much they mean to you. there’s never been a more significant time.”

Eda wears ethically-produced T-shirt, jacket and skirt by Deborah Henning

156

CULTURE EDIT

OUR PLANET This April, be inspired by intergalactic architecture, tropical interiors, sustainable style and planet-friendly food

The Nanjing International Youth Cultural Centre in China, one of Zaha Hadid’s spectacular designs

Leeza Soho in Beijing, China

ZAHA HADID. COMPLETE WORKS 1977-TODAY This month, Taschen will publish an updated monograph of the life and work of late British-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid. The the first female architect to win the Pritzker Architecture Prize, Hadid’s vision helped to shape some of the most spectacular built include the King Abdullah Petroleum Studies & Research Center in Riyadh, which boasts hexagonal pods that interlock like honeycomb and the new Beijing Daxing International Airport, a starfish-shaped terminal that could easily have been transported from a faraway galaxy. The new 2020 edition of the book covers Hadid’s complete works (including ongoing projects) with photographs, in-depth sketches and personal drawings, alongside an insightful commentary by author Philip Jodidio. The volume traces Hadid’s career – from her first buildings to her innovative interior designs, through to the legacy she’s left behind – in a celebration of one of the greatest architects of the 21st century. A true marvel. Taschen.com

Images courtesy of Hufton + Crow, and Assouline

landscapes across the world. Her prolific designs

St. Tropez’s terracotta villas hidden in the lush green landscape

AU NATUREL Dubai’s sustainable and ethically sourced interiors studio, Tribe, has a new line of bespoke home decor designed and curated by Jo England. From the Dusk coffee table to the NuBambu Collection (made from 100% bamboo), each piece uses natural materials to create artisan furniture perfect for laid-back living. Tribedubai.com

The low-lying NuBambu chair from Tribe

ST. TROPEZ SOLEIL Assouline’s latest publication offers an escape to the sunshine-soaked French Riviera, with 300 pages dedicated to the picturesque oasis of St. Tropez.

Famed for its idyllic beaches and Mediterranean charm, St. Tropez attracts a star-studded crowd of actors, artists and writers who flock to the hot spot year after year. In St. Tropez Soleil, a series of vivid rainbow-like photographs explore the destination’s storied past and its ever-evolving present, alongside text by acclaimed French writer Simon Liberati. From iconic events likes the Chanel fashion show at Sénéquier café and Naomi Campbell’s White Party at Nikki Beach, to quintessentially Tropezian landmarks, such as the ochre, yellow and pink painted buildings, this volume captures St. Tropez’s infectious joie de vivre in a colourful keepsake sure to take pride of place on the bookshelf. Assouline.com

BOHO HAVEN

Once Milano’s linen tablecloth and napkin

A hidden gem among Dubai’s grand skyscrapers and malls, Comptoir 102 is an effortlessly chic lifestyle concept store by Emmanuelle Sawko. After a tasty organic bite at the healthy café, browse through the bohemian boutique bursting with sustainable skincare, handcrafted jewellery, intricate interiors and one-of-a-kind artwork. It’s a treasure trove of curated pieces that please the heart and the planet. Comptoir102.com

The eclectic interiors at Comptoir 102

LUXE LINEN A modern interpretation of traditional Italian linen, Once Milano’s SS20 homeware collection comprises cashmere knit blankets, table runners, elegant robes and subtle houndstooth quilts in a muted, minimalist palette of natural tones. Available at Matches Fashion.

158

The Mediterranean-inspired interiors at Nassau Soulgreen is a haven of hanging botanicals

HOME GROWN Set in the sanctuary of the suburbs among the lush green surrounds of Jumeirah Golf Estates, Nassau is a contemporary Mediterranean restaurant focused on utilising the

GOOD FOR THE SOUL

UAE’s organic resources. “As one of the pioneering chefs who introduced organic

Its first venture outside of Italy, Soulgreen has launched a

produce into kitchens, I pride myself in using over 60% of organically sourced

new contemporary food concept at Vida Creek Harbour in

ingredients from local farms,” says Silvena Rowe, Nassau’s executive chef. “Nassau’s

Dubai. With a focus on being kind to the environment, the

dishes are heavily inspired by healthy, delicious Mediterranean cuisine that uses

kitchen is plastic- and waste-free and the menu is comprised

the best organic ingredients. The restaurant’s menu is quite dynamic, catering to a

of innovative plant-based cuisine made from mostly local

variety of audiences, including paleo-friendly, vegan and vegetarian options.” If the

and sustainably sourced ingredients. Overlooking the Ras

home-grown food isn’t enough to entice you, the ethereal interiors might be – with

Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary, the spot offers the perfect place

a palette of breezy blues, rich caramels and natural creams offset by an abundance

to watch the migratory birds pass by while enjoying a tasty

of green foliage that creates the perfect escape from the city. +971 4 818 2000

red quinoa burger. +971 50 747 6678

Chef Silvena Rowe’s shawarma-style marinated king prawns

Enjoy Folia’s health conscious vegan dishes at home

GOURMET TO GO Dreaming of fine-dining from the comfort of your home? Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach is now delivering gourmet dishes to your doorstep through its new Gastrohome

by Four Seasons concept. Spearheaded by executive chef Gilles Arzur, the to-go menu features fresh seasonal produce from some of the resort’s exquisite restaurants, including plant-based dishes from vegan eatery Folia. The delivery service is available via Talabat, Uber Eats and Zomato.

1 8

AUDENZA

JUNGLE BOUGIE 2

Follow the runway’s call of the wild and fill your abode with palm fonds and botanical prints that bring the outdoors in. Clash spots with stripes and add a hint of brass to finish 1. MINDTHEGAP AT AMARA | 2. THE NEW ENGLISH AT FARFETCH | 3. CHATTELS & MORE | 4. MARINA HOME | 5. MISHMASHI AT OUNASS | 6. LES-OTTOMANS AT MATCHES FASHION | 7. GUCCI | 8. RUG SOCIETY

7

4

3

5 6

160

MOJEH CULTURE

PARADISE LOST Dubai-based artist Janan Shihadeh collaborates with oriental and decorative carpet maker Iwan Maktabi on a rug in honour of our planet Words by Rebecca Anne Proctor

T

itled Paradise Lost, artist Janan Shihadeh’s first carpet for Iwan Maktabi hangs from the wall of the revered carpet-maker’s popup space in Alserkal Avenue. It brims with flowers rendered in silk and is decorated with paintings of birds, bees, hearts and planets. Sized 300 x 200cm, Shihadeh’s design graces a vintage Anatolian carpet, and it beams with the beauty of nature. “I care deeply about the planet,” says the artist. “Besides the fact that it deeply inspires and moves me, I love animals and Mother Nature.” When one looks closely, they will see the flora and fauna melting away, almost resembling tears. “I am trying to portray global warming and how everything on Earth is melting because of rising temperatures,” she explains. “If we do nothing, everything will wither away to nothing.

I painted bees because they are endangered now and are the ones responsible for cross-pollination.”

The title ‘Paradise Lost’ refers to the idea, according to Shihadeh, that “we are about to lose our paradise.”

While the carpet is in essence a campaign for environmental change, it’s also a stunning work of art. And Shihadeh is not your everyday artist.

A muralist, trompe l’oeil painter, furniture maker, candle creator, and recently luxury bag customiser (you can find her paintings on a host of Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Gucci bags), she paints on surfaces including brick, concrete, buildings, walls, wax, canvas, wood, leather and even cars, painting a Mercedes G-Wagon for the recent ‘She’s Mercedes’ campaign.

The collaboration with Iwan Maktabi signifies the first time that the artist has painted on a carpet. “I used silk flowers, and attached them petal by petal

Photography: Augustine Paredes at Seeingthings.ae

Iwan Maktabi’s managing director, Mona Maktabi

Artist Janan Shihadeh and her environmental change-inspired rug, Paradise Lost

162

“

I am trying to portray global warming and how everything on Earth is melting because of rising temperatures.

Janan Shihadeh

onto the rug. Then I used acrylic paint on the rug,” she explains. Shihadeh also painted on each flower so as to endow them with a psychedelic edge. In the middle there is a painted heart that represents “the beating heart and soul of Mother Nature.” It is represented in the centre of the work with sharply painted rays encircling it as if it is extending its energy out to the many flowers and to Mother Earth herself.

“I almost felt spiritually led while doing this work,” recalls Shihadeh. “When I was buying the materials, I went to several shops, because I was looking for that bright neon-red colour, and I found one shop that had it. It was like whatever I wanted to find to create the piece, I found.” The rug is a one-off work, which is meant to be auctioned for charity. “We are going to choose a charity in the UAE or Lebanon where it can be auctioned,” says Mona Maktabi.

“These days we desperately need to give something to the community. We hope also that it will be sold for an environmental cause.”

Iwan Maktabi, which will soon open a new showroom in The Dubai Mall, has been at the forefront of Oriental and decorative carpet making since 1926.

Apart from selling antique and vintage carpets from across the Middle East, Iwan Maktabi is known for its contemporary collaborations, calling in architects, artists and designers to create one-ofa-kind rugs. These have included collaborations with CC Tapis, the Italian company producing contemporary hand-knotted rugs created in Nepal by expert Tibetan artists; Jan Kath, one of the world’s most in-demand designers of handknotted carpets; Marwan Sahmarani, Nadine Kanso, Gregory Gatserelia and most recently, Beirut-based architect and designer duo david/nicolas.

“We hope we can commission Janan to do another rug along the same lines, in a desire to give back to our planet,” added Maktabi. @Iwanmaktabiofficial, iwanmaktabi.com; jananart.com, @Jananstudio

Mona Maktabi at the pop-up space for Iwan Maktabi in Alserkal

164

MOJEH CULTURE

A striking zebra-print rug is a focal point of Nina’s elegant dining room, where she likes to entertain

Life & Style R

are gems are something that Nina Runsdorf has spent her career discovering. But as well as working amongst some of the world’s most precious stones in her capacity as a jewellery designer, Nina has the fortune of living in a rare gem of her own.

Passed down through the generations by her late husband’s parents, the 57-year-old New York native’s Park Avenue home is a glittering example of some of the city’s most exquisite real estate. “I’ve lived here for 25 years,” smiles Nina. “This apartment was the home that my late husband grew up in, and where I raised our two daughters. It’s a place full of very special memories.” Just a stone’s throw from Central Park on one of the most coveted streets in the city, the Big Apple is quite literally the core of Nina’s world. “I was born in New York City, but at the age of eight, my parents decided to move us to upstate New York, where we lived on a farm,” sheexplains. “The neighbourhood we live in now is really quiet and incredibly elegant. The street of Park Avenue is very wide, so you feel like you have a lot of space in a city where it often feels that you don’t.”

Leading an active lifestyle, which includes practicing yoga and pilates, and taking long walks as often as she can, Nina loves nothing more than visiting the sprawling park that’s right on her doorstep. “We’re so lucky to live just one block away from Central Park, which I absolutely love, because it allows me to be around nature, even though we’re right in the heart of the city, which is something I’m used to having grown up in the countryside.” Residing in the apartment for a quarter of a century, while the property is beautifully spacious and now flooded with natural light, Nina admits they did have to do a little bit of work when she and her late husband first started living in the property together. “When we first moved in, the apartment felt rather dark, and I wanted it to feel light and welcoming,” she reveals. “There were lots of arches, so I took all of those

Nina wears her own jewellery and evening gown in the dining room of her New York home

MOJEH exclusively explores the New York home of celebrated jewellery designer, Nina Runsdorf Words by Lucy Wildman Photography by SamNandez

166 Nina’s Vladimir Kagan serpentine couch is one of her favourite pieces of furniture

out, and moved all of the door planes eight inches higher to create a space that felt more inviting. I also put a lot of glass doors into the apartment, which allowed for even more light to pass through.” Designing the interiors of the apartment herself so it refleced who she is as a person and a designer, Nina describes the feel of her home as eclectic, yet elegant and thoughtful. “When I was a kid, we were surrounded by artists, musicians, architects and all types of creative people, and because of that, my home has a lot of different feelings. It’s bohemian, it’s contemporary; there are modern pieces and there are antiques – it really is a mixture of a lot of different aesthetics.” An avid collector of vintage clothing, watches, handbags and jewellery, Nina also has a collection of antique furniture and unique art, carefully curated over the years during her travels around the world. “I only buy things that I fall in love with, but if I see one of those special pieces, I’ll snap it up right there and then,” she laughs. “I’m always looking to add to my collection, and I really love the history that vintage pieces carry.” With art one of her greatest loves, the designer’s regular travels allow her to indulge her passion wherever she goes. “I travel all over the world, and love experiencing new cultures and their art and design aesthetics. Wherever I am in the world, I buy what I love and what I feel would make a great addition to my art collection. I make a real

“

I make a real effort to try and bring something home from every country I go to. I picked up an amazing sculpture by Ahmed Askalany when I was in Dubai.

Nina Runsdorf

effort to try and bring something home from every country I go to. That’s really the way I find the art for my home.”

Having recently enjoyed a trip to the UAE, Nina made sure she returned to New York with a lasting memory of her visit. “I picked up an amazing sculpture by Ahmed Askalany when I was staying in Dubai,” reveals Nina of her latest purchase. “He works with woven materials. I love the aesthetic form of his pieces, and how they are produced using such simple techniques, yet contribute to the complexity of contemporary art and its practice.” Adding to a spectacular array of artworks and furniture collected over the years, when it comes to choosing favourite pieces, the jewellery designer admits she struggles to decide between them. “I have so many favourite pieces of furniture, it’s really difficult to select just one of two of them,” smiles Nina. “But my Vladimir Kagan serpentine couch is something I really love. He was also a friend of the family, which makes it a sentimental piece. My Wendell Castle sculptural wood tables are also favourites. Wendell was a fantastic artist and a great man that I knew. He designed the most beautiful sculptural tables. But I also love Ado Chale! Because of the incredible tables he makes with inlaid stones, and because I am such a stone-crazy person, it’s a given that I love his pieces.” As far as artworks go, Nina’s most cherished all have a strong, emotional relevance to her. “The bronze sculpture by Robert Kipness given to me by my parents on my 21st birthday is definitely one of my most treasured pieces,” she explains. “The artist is also a dear friend of my parents. Robert rarely made bronze sculptures, so it really is extra-special in that regard. He also gave three rings to my mother which were the only rings he ever made; I also have one of those now.

My other favorite artwork is my Richard Prince Joke painting, which is the first painting I ever bought for myself. I grew up around Richard Prince in the upstate, and have known him since I was 11-years-old.”

High ceilings and original parquet flooring in the hallway are the perfect canvas for Nina’s stunning collection of treasured artworks

Sculptural wooden tables by Wendell Castle

168

The apartment boasts an array of contemporary and antique pieces

“

I always try to get to know the artist of a piece I buy. I want to understand the way in which they see the world.

Nina Runsdorf

A cosy spot for reading in Nina’s dreamy and calming bedroom

As an artist with unbridled creativity running through her veins, Nina’s chosen career plays a big part in inspiring the look and feel of her home. “As a jeweler, I love working with my hands, and I love beautiful things. I get a lot of inspiration for my designs from travelling, and find different kinds of stones to work with, being most drawn to the beauty found in natural, unrefined stones and precious gemstones,” says Nina. “I get inspiration and shop for my house in the same way. All the things I’ve collected from around the world over the years give the space such a unique character.” While never intentionally shopping for pieces to add to her home, Nina loves scouring vintage stores and markets in New York, and frequently attends art fairs to widen her knowledge of the industry and the new talents constantly joining it. “I’m always looking for young artists that are up-and-coming, and I’m getting ready to go to a few art fair in the next few months, so I’ll see who is inspiring me then. I always try to get to know the artist of a piece I buy, and if I don’t already know them, I try to find a way to meet them. It inspires me that everyone has a different slant on life, and I want to understand the way in which they see theworld.” Citing an array of artists of whom she is particularly fond, Nina’s eclectic selection comprises talents from myriad genres.

“I really do have many different artists that I love, and whose work I truly admire, but I really can’t say I have one favorite,” muses Nina. “I do love Richard Prince because he is irreverent. He to me is Americana. I also love him because he is a dear friend of mine. Then Nir Hod, who I just did a collaboration with on a ring, is a great friend of mine who I also admire hugely as an artist. I would also say Adam McEwen because he works in all different mediums. But then I love Matisse because of his use of colour. I love Picasso. I love different ceramic artists like Takuro Kuwata. I also love Baldessari, Ellen Gallagher there are so many artists whose works make my heart beat

Nina is searching for the perfect vintage black and white photograph to hang over her bed

faster that trying to list them all is simply impossible.”

Designing and re-designing her home to reflect what she likes as well as her personal aesthetic over the years, Nina is currently on the lookout for something for her bedroom.

“I’ve been wanting a vintage black and white photograph to go above my bed for so long,” she explains. “I just redesigned the room into a super-dreamy and calming space, so I want this photograph to be really perfect. But you can’t rush these things. When I find the right image, I’ll just know.” Deeply in love with her home just the way it is, Nina does have a clear favourite room in the house.

“Without a shadow of a doubt, it’s got to be the kitchen!” she laughs. “No matter how cozy your house is, everyone always ends up in the kitchen – at least that’s the way it is in my family. Maybe it’s because that’s where the food is, and food is love. That’s what my grandma used to say anyway.” And while she says there’s nothing major she’d change about her space, if she could have one home-focused wish, it would be to add an element of the great outdoors.

“The only thing that the apartment is missing is a garden,” reveals Nina. “I would love to be able to walk outside and have an outdoor space or an open terrace where I could plant flowers or trees and have a vegetable garden, even though I live in the city. But for now, I see Central Park as my back yard – even if it is just a little walk away.”

170

THE MESSAGE

As we celebrate the 50th annual Earth Day on April 22, MOJEH asks Earth Day Network’s Nick Nuttall what the current pandemic has done to highlight the battle against climate change

“

Unlike a disease, for which science can often rapidly find a vaccine, there will be no cure for climate change if it is only partially addressed.

Nick Nuttall

Photography: Getty Images

I THE MESSAGE

f the current coronavirus pandemic has taught us anything, it is the fragility of our interconnected, globalised, economies to cope with sudden shocks.

The jury is out on whether governments could have known about and been better prepared to cope with COVID-19.

But there is one global risk – infinitely more worrisome, in terms of potential impact – for which the scientific early warning bells have been ringing alarmingly and increasingly for years: climate change.

Indeed, without speedy intervention now, climate change could harm billions of people, our ability to feed ourselves, put at risk countless communities and the existence of small island nations, and trigger damage down the generations.

Yet we also already know what we need to do to build a better world: one that is as economically productive as today’s but with the benefits such as new kinds of green jobs, cleaner air, healthier oceans, less-polluted communities, and greater social justice.

Science argues that to avoid more frequent, harmful extreme weather events and to protect natural systems such as coral reefs and tropical forests like the Amazon, global average temperatures should rise by no more than 1.5°C. The world also has a strategy: the 2015 Paris Agreement. Every nation has a plan to reduce their emissions; rich countries will provide support to poorer ones, and efforts to realise a low-carbon world are to be ratcheted up over time.

By 2050, the aim is a low-carbon, ‘net-zero’ global society that can look itself in the eye and say “We did it.”

COVID-19 underlines that we are all in it together – no country is immune. Climate change requires the same solidarity between nations and peoples in the face of an even greater risk.

There are reasons to be optimistic. The use of clean energy such as wind and solar is, for example, doubling globally every 4.4 years, and over $30 trillion-worth of investment has been pledged to support a low-carbon, green economy.

But we are still behind the curve on a range of sectors, from the construction and operation of our homes and buildings, and the way we manage food, to the impact of consumer goods such as clothing, beauty goods and electrical devices.

Unlike a disease, for which science can often rapidly find a vaccine, there will be no cure for climate change if it is only partially addressed.

As the world marks the 50th Earth Day, we look to the next key UN climate conference in the UK to make 2020 a year of stepped-up ambition, and a year to remember for all the right reasons.

We should also look to ourselves, by urging our governments on to do the right thing and by combining our efforts in our workplaces, our communities and our homes to realise a climate-safe future.

• Nick Nuttall is the Strategic Communications Director, Earth Day Network and former spokesperson for UN Climate Change

SUBSCRIBE

FASHION

BEAUTY

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

LIFESTYLE

VIDEOS

GETAWAY: Once life returns to normality, whether

WHAT TO WEAR: Discover the SS20 trends our

you want to escape the city or hide within it, we

editors are wearing to dress for success. From

spotlight the luxury mini-breaks that balance good

tropical hues to bold bags and square-toed shoes,

food, stunning views and plenty of rest and relaxation.

we decode your wardrobe refresh.

SPRING DECOR: Whether you’re a minimalist or a maximalist, styling your new coffee table or updating your home office, find super-chic interiors inspiration on MOJEH.com.

ECO EATS: In honour of Earth Day (April 22), we’ve curated the city’s coolest eco-conscious restaurants that are cutting down on food waste or serving up plant-based bites.

BEAUTY BUYS: From revitalising hair masks to bold eyeshadow palettes and cruelty-free lip tints, visit MOJEH.com to find the latest beauty picks and trends to covet this spring.

MOJEH.COM THE LATEST IN STYLE AND LUXURY

chanel .com

KEIRA KNIGHTLEY WEARS COCO CRUSH RINGS IN WHITE AND BEIGE GOLD WITH DIAMONDS.

DUBAI, MALL OF THE EMIRATES - LEVEL 1 +971 4 381 8488

DUBAI, THE DUBAI MALL +971 4 3827100/06