ISSUE 33

Page 1

Your Next Elegant Adventure N° 33 DEC / JAN

















Change the pace of life Cross countries and continents with us in 2016 as we help you get the most out of life.

T: + 9 7 1 4 4 2 5 8 6 0 0 | W: l o u i s f o u r t e e n . c o m


18 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Senior Fashion Writer Natalie Trevis

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Fashion Writer susan devaney

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Editorial Assistant Dmitri Ruwan

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists Sofia Odero Alba Belendo Gregory Wein

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

ART

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Concierge Service Management daisy marchant

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran

Online Division Ali Roman

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Lifestyle Assistance kasia wawryszuk

Contributing Photographers Viki Forshee Anthony Arquier Mazan Abusrour Max Papendieck Pelle Lannefors

Cover photographed by Max Papendieck, Hannah Ferguson wears Thom Browne

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212-213 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE. WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011



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M o j eh C o ntent s

SOCIETY 36. Stepping Into The Light As her star continues to rise, we meet Persian actress Necar Zadegan to discuss Hollywood and searching for her perfect role.

56. Making Changes Switching careers has become commonplace in today’s world. But, what does it really take to take the leap and make it a success?

60. 9 Ways To Keep The Fun In Fashion Deborah Lloyd, president and creative director of Kate Spade New York, tells us why fashion is all about pushing seriousness to the side.

FASHION 62. Changing Lanes

80. One Step Closer

Is there anything Anthony Vaccarello can’t do? We

Question: Will sustainability ever be synonymous with

get to know the man, who knows both fashion and

luxury? Take a closer look at the drive to produce

beauty in equal measure.

fashion with a clear conscience.

72. Word On The Street

92. I Think We’re Moving Too Fast

From London and Paris to New York City, meet the

With Raf Simons’s shock exit from Dior, we

rising street style stars, who’ll be influencing our new

question the current state of fashion: Are we

year wardrobes.

moving too fast?

76. Sketch In Style

102. A Walk With Miu Miu

It’s official: Fashion illustration is having a moment.

As Miuccia Prada took the Miu Miu girl on a different

But, is trading in traditional craft for commercial

journey this season, we went backstage to see what

viability a savvy business move?

all the fuss was about.


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22 ACCESSORIES 148. The Untold Story Serpenti Forever, the latest expression of Bulgari’s celebrated serpent motif, is a handbag with its own tale to tell.

154. Exotic Splendour Taking a trip back in time, we find that the Mughal Empire and its artistic legacy is still as much a source of inspiration today as it was many centuries ago.

166. A Timeless Conversation Escape into the sophisticated, dream-like and emotive world of Vacheron’s latest diamond-laden watch offerings.

BEAUTY

CULTURE

170. Natural Beauty by Peter Philips

184. No Limits

Dior’s Creative and Image Director tells us the

An adventurer and sportswoman, Raha Moharrak is

lessons he’s learnt and how to keep things au naturel

beyond inspirational. We sat down with her to find

when it comes to makeup.

out what drives her, and what’s next on her To Do list.

172. Bring In The Best Of You

187. A Meeting Of Forms

As we ring in a New Year, we’re placing emphasis

Istanbul is a city steeped in history and rich in culture.

on our natural radiance and beauty for 2016 – with

From art fairs to modern restaurants, there’s a lot to

a trip back to the basics.

see and do in this artful metropolis.

181. In Search Of Standing Still

196. At Home With Dana Hourani

Scouring the globe for plants full of nutritional

Who’s that girl? Renowned in everything from fashion

properties, Chanel’s new anti-ageing skincare range

and beauty to interiors, Dana Hourani, one of the region’s

contains an abundance of goodness.

most stylish influencers, invites us into her home.



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E d i t o r ’s L ette r

A Spirited Year With the start of each new year inevitably comes another set of goals and promises, in pursuit of a ‘perfect me’ or a ‘new and improved self’. But, if we’ve learnt anything from 2015, it’s that there should be no such thing. Imperfection is perfection, and you’re already the woman you were born to be. Instead, we should be fleshing that sense of self out and allowing our natural worth to shine. One of the biggest trends to come out of 2015 transcending all seasons, whether summer or winter, is bohemia. With an abundance of spirited dresses – free-flowing, blissful and angelic in pretty prints – designers have been encouraging a carefree and explorative lifestyle that relies on living in the moment and celebrating our natural self. And, we’ve seen this ideal ripple through more industries than just fashion. ‘Luxury’ travel, for example, is turning away from the five-star in favour of experience and as discussed in the following pages, now’s the time for women to follow their career passions as opposed to doing what’s expected. Similarly in momentum, the health and beauty world now hugely encourages clean and natural living, both inside and out. Natural, fresh skin is a keen favourite on the runways, even championed by some of today’s biggest artists, including Dior’s Peter Phillips, who shows us how to use our fresh and natural canvases to achieve it. Turn towards our health section, where we Paradise Found, photographed by VIKI FORSHEE

look at the most poignant well-being facts to come out of 2015, helping you enhance the skin you’re already in. And, why stop there? Also in this issue, uncover the relentless power of vanilla and get ready for the next fitness movements to hit the Middle East, All in all, it’s safe to say that the past 12 months have been ones of change for women. Remember Emma Watson’s powerful speech at the UN, the subsequent He for She campaign, the flurry of women calling for equal pay in Hollywood and the Ask Her More crusade? As always, MOJEH has a penchant for celebrating strong-willed females, who are using their natural-born talents to break moulds. Necar Zadegan is the Persian actress turning heads in Hollywood, and Raha Moharrak, the first Saudi woman to climb Mount Everest, invites us into her home. Then there’s our cover star, Hannah Ferguson, who is proving that versatility in the modelling world is more possible than others might tell you, as she successfully scales major Sports Illustrated contracts with high-end fashion. In an ode to Alessandro Michele, we explore a brave and beautiful world led by a map of love in which sensibility, tenderness and kindness reign true - look towards our emotive shoot, Paradise Found, for notes to start the New Year with.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief


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E d i t o r ’s S n a p s h ot s

White Age 1

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3

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As our wardrobes transition through fall into cruise, build upon a blank canvas with whiter than white separates. Elevating the minimalist colour palette with clean-cut silhouettes from Jil Sander, worked against maximalist trimmings at Miu Miu, exhibits effortless refinement for the modern muse. 1. MIU MIU | 2. ACNE STUDIOS at Harvey Nichols Dubai | 3. PRADA @ mytheresa.com | 4. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 5. HERMES | 6. AQUAZZURA @ matchesfashion.com | 7. CHANEL | 8. JIL SANDER @net-a-porter.com

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W at c h N ote

It was 1612 in Paris, and a royal garden emerged upon the request of the Queen – it was exquisite, rich in colour and reflective of the changing seasons. Inspired by this story, Korloff’s new Jardin du Luxembourg walks us through the orchard and escapes the ordinary, with designs reflective of the changing winds. Will you reside in spring, with exquisite pinks and fresh flowers, or winter wearing white diamonds and frosted jasmine flowers? Each is just as perfect as the other.

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

The Secret Garden Watches, KORLOFF



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a cces s o ry n ot e

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Soften your winter style with modernist hues of dove grey. Simplistic yet powerful, opt for streamlined silhouettes that command attention in the details.

Left to right: FENDI | MANOLO BLAHNIK | BALENCIAGA | M2MALLETIER at Symphony



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b e a u ty n ote

L oo k in g A head

Clockwise from top left: YSL, Forever Youth Liberator Eye Crème | LANCOME, Génefique Yeux Youth Activating Eye Concentrate | LA MER, Eye Balm Intense | CLARINS, Extra-firming Eye Wrinkle Smoothing Cream

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

It’s never too soon to start taking preventative action on fine lines around the eyes, especially with a plethora of new formulas at our fingertips. Let this be one new year’s resolution that lasts the year and beyond. Tip: Also apply around the lips daily.



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s t yl e note

This season, the ankle boot gets a few added inches in both height and style. Delivering intricate detailing of perspex, suede and brocade, push the boundaries with this revived favourite, ideal for all hemlines. Clockwise from left: FENDI | ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | GIANVITO ROSSI at Level Shoe District

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Ta l l O r d e r



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M o j eh W o m a n

Stepping into the Light Just as at home on a theatre stage as on our television screens, actress Necar Zadegan is living the LA dream. We talk to the Persian star about finding her place in Hollywood and the eternal search for the perfect role.

Zadegan’s simple guiding principle when selecting roles is to look for “a great role, in a great project, with a great team”, to which she can offer something unique. A philosophy that has led her to embrace several roles that have a connection to the Middle East. “I’ve been very happy and lucky to portray the characters I have,” she muses. “I was doing a Broadway show, [Tony Awardwinning and Pulitzer prize-nominated] The Bengal Tiger

By Natalie Trevis

at the Baghdad Zoo, which was a show with a Middle very strong-willed women with high moral compasses,

with credits that include First Lady and President Dalia

who, in a lot of ways, were on the right side of history.

Hassan in political thriller 24, Queen Soraya of Iran in

The story lived in a world of magical realism, but the

Fifties drama Masters of Sex, and Delia Banai, hotshot

fantasy it told was a fantasy that has truth in it. I believe

divorce lawyer, in Bravo’s current hit show (based on

in that specifically with regard to Middle Eastern stories.

the bestselling books) Girlfriend’s Guide to Divorce.

I am very sensitive to that.”

Zadegan, looking effortlessly radiant and fresh faced

It was this grace and sensitivity that Zadegan drew on to

after a trip to the gym, tells us that she picks her roles

play former empress of Iran, Queen Soraya, in Masters

with a certainty that shows she has more than a little

of Sex; valuable qualities given the emotive storyline

in common with the savvy women she so often plays.

surrounding the Queen’s struggle with infertility. “She

“You have to have a strong reason for wanting to do

is a really iconic role for Persian people,” she says.

certain roles,” she affirms. “I think, what can I give to

“I was lucky to portray her. That show told that story

them? If I can give something to them, then I have to

with such incredible honesty and strength, in a very

do them, and if I don’t think I can, then somebody

truthful, good way: The right way.” Challenging subject

else should do it.”

matter is something Zadegan, like most actors, actively

Born in Germany and raised in San Francisco, 33-year-

appreciates. “I don’t think because I’m Iranian I shy

old Zadegan has always been close to her Persian roots,

away from stories about fertility or about sex, at all. As

even forging a connection with her heritage amidst the

a matter of fact, I think that as Iranian women, we have

bright lights of LA at the start of her career. “I love the

to take up the torch to become even louder about those

Middle East. I think it’s a very special, misunderstood

subjects. I think the rest of the world misjudges Middle

part of the world. I think that unless you go, you don’t

Eastern women as these fantasy creatures behind the

get to know all of its charms and magic,” she says.

veil. But that’s not the case. They’re incredibly educated,

“When I moved to LA to get into film and television,

incredibly world aware and when you know that, I think

I accidentally fell into this Persian theatre company

the burden is placed on us to remind people.”

with Shohreh Aghdashloo: A fantastic Iranian actress,

Zadegan has the kind of calm presence and self-

who was nominated for an Oscar for Best Supporting

awareness that doesn’t just bring a certain sophistication

Actress for the film House of Sand and Fog. When I

to her roles, Middle Eastern or otherwise, but suggests

moved here, they were looking for a young actress; the

she is also more than capable of handling the potential

next thing I knew, we were travelling the whole world.

pitfalls of the industry. Aside from an unrelenting and

Behrouz Vossoughi, a very famous Iranian movie

unhealthy emphasis on appearance, competition for

star, was in the show – in Iran, there is nobody

roles in Hollywood is fierce. How does she handle the

more famous than this guy – and we would sell out

pressure? “As you grow up, you have to decide what

thousand-seat houses at 100 euros a ticket. It was

kind of woman you want to be,” she tells us, “what you

a very big show,” she recalls.

want to portray. I think that when you’re younger, as

Images courtesy of Necar Zadegan. Photographed by Benjo Arwas, styled by Robiat Balogun, makeup by Elaine Offers, hair by Stephen Lewis.

Eastern theme, and the characters that I played were Necar Zadegan has a knack for playing strong women,


I think the rest of the world misjudges Middle Eastern women as these fantasy creatures behind the veil. But that’s not the case. They’re incredibly educated, incredibly world aware and when you know that, I think the burden is placed on us to remind people.


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an artist especially, you have to take certain roles just to build a career. I had to. Then once you’re afforded the career, it’s up to you what direction you want to take it. Whatever you decide is ok, but it’s your choice and it’s your decision and if you’re conscious about it then you can be active in that role that you play. I don’t necessarily think of being a role model, but the fact is that I am. I’m aware of that responsibility and so, I think that means that you should, whatever choice you make, have conviction about it.” A woman who is definitely owning her choices is Delia Banai, the divorce lawyer Zadegan plays on Girlfriend’s Guide to Divorce, alongside Lisa Edelstein, Beau Garrett and Paul Adelstein. “Delia is probably the only character on the show who has become the woman who she always wanted to be. That’s a really big deal for anybody, and yet, she still finds herself in a place of uncontentedness. In the next season, my character plans her wedding – which is something that this character thought that she would never do – and because of that, she sometimes says yes when she means no, and is often doing things against her nature.” Does being absorbed in a character for so long (Zadegan has just got back from filming in Vancouver when we

to necessarily weigh on you,” she says thoughtfully.

speak) come with its own set of challenges? “It’s tricky,

“Sometimes, you can have a very emotionally draining

because I am such a self aware woman and I am so

day at work, but I think that must happen in every job.”

direct, to a fault maybe. While this character may want

With more nudity, more dubious decision-making, stellar

to be those things, she is not and she’s doing things

guest stars and a wedding to top it all off, the next

against her better judgement because she is finding

season of the show is set to be as chaotic for Delia

herself. It’s so antithetical to how I am right now, but

as Zadegan is zen. While we watch the drama unfold,

it makes sense to be passionate about this person’s

Zadegan has her sights set on a trip to recharge in

journey. As an actor, it lives inside you and you want

Spain, but not before flying to Monte Carlo to head

to make it live inside you, so you take on some of

up the jury of the Monaco Film Festival. From that

those feelings and those insecurities a little bit… I’m

glamourous interlude, Zadegan will return to LA to

always thinking about ways to better the character, to

continue forging ahead in roles old and new come

deepen the character in new scenes. But it doesn’t have

2016: She’s got plenty more empowering stories to tell.


Home at last.

AGENT FOR GCC COUNTRIES Pia Colzani Tel. +39 335 8394824 pia.flexform@gmail.com

SOFT DREAM SECTIONAL SOFA design by Antonio Citterio

FLEXFORM www.flexform.it


Hair and makeup artist: Annesofie Begtrup, Model: Augusta at The AgenC, Shoot location: Opera Gallery DIFC

40 T h e i ns p ir ati o n

Photographed by Liv Friis Larsen, Styled by Olivia Cantillon


From Canvas to Cloth New York-based brand Alice and Olivia by Stacey Bendet have created a cool and contemporary capsule collection inspired by Russian artist Timur D’Vatz’s whimsical painting, titled ‘Dream in a Dream’. In rendering the colourful imagery across exquisite pieces, the inspirational collide of fashion and art is made literal in the best of ways. “This kind of painting is influenced by mythology and legends. It’s an ancient Greek story about Artemis and her twin brother Apollo,” says designer Stacey Bendet, at the creative helm of Alice and Olivia. ”Artemis is a Moon Goddess and her symbol was a White Stag, which represents the symbol of purity and rhythms of life. During my pregnancy, the whole idea of purity and rhythms of life really spoke to me in a special way.” The intricate print, which is delivered in vibrant autumnal hues, embodies the youthful yet sophisticated aesthetic of the forward-thinking label. Delivering art at its most gratifying, the course from influence to design has been translated through the clearest of channels. “I instantly fell in love with the colours and depth of detail in the painting. There was something innately dark and spiritual about it and it truly inspired me,” says Bendet. Collaborations between fashion designers and artists may be a requisite of the 21st century, but in this one image in particular, we celebrate an amalgamation of forms; communication, wearabilty and of course, beauty.


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City Lines Redefine the conformist elements of office attire and allow your workwear to be the voice of your modern day outlook. Discreetly empowering with feminine silhouettes, look towards an edgier mood for your nine-to-five.

Photographed by Mazen Abusrour Styled by Olivia Cantillon


Here, in a modernist hue of bottle green, discover soft peplum detailing and loose-fitting trousers paired with easy-breezy beachside sandals. Reimagine your traditional work suit with a relaxed aura. Top, trousers and shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR


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As pinstripes make their seasonal revival, give your old favourites a contemporary feel by layering a structured vest over the top. Evoke a mannish mood with metallic hardware and oversized trousers. Blouse, ALEXANDER WANG at Harvey Nichols Dubai | Top, CÉLINE | Trousers, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM at Harvey Nichols Dubai | Shoes, SANTONI


Gone are the days when workwear equaled black. Offer a new vision with botanical notes and lowslung separates, and add some Gucci girl frill to your traditional shirt with the bow of all bow ties. Blazer, shirt and trousers, GUCCI


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Underplay a structured pencil skirt with soft, feminine knitwear. To maintain an elegant silhouette, opt for finer, ribbed knits with perfectly placed cutout detailing. Jumper, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Skirt, PETER PILOTTO at Symphony



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Give a ladylike two-piece an edgier mood and wrap a slouchy cardigan around your waist. Lose the pearls and kitten heels for that urban, city vibe. Dress and cardigan, CHANEL


Resist the temptation to cover up completely and show some skin in the most demure of ways. Use a knitted maxi dress with a backless offering for discreet femininity. Dress, CÉLINE


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Take your smokey eye from dusk to dawn and embrace a rougher exterior for the office. Keep your skin fresh and dewy, with wispy, undone locks. Top, DRIES VAN NOTEN at Harvey Nichols Dubai


Transition your eveningwear jumpsuit into workwear attire with the addition of the season’s most wearable trend – check. Layer a pinafore style neckline over a contrasting shirt. Shirt, FORTE FORTE at Boutique 1 | Jumpsuit, T BY ALEXANDER WANG at Symphony


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Make use of your winter coat regardless of the climate by keeping your legs bare and turtleneck high. Sport androgynous brogues for official use only. Coat, BALENCIAGA | Top, EMPORIO ARMANI | Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN



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Rejuvenate your outerwear into a powerful coat dress, with the addition of a contrasting (preferably feather) belt. Creating illusion by definition, keep your silhouette A-line and leathers to a max. Coat, CÉLINE | Belt, SARA ROKA at S*uce


Model: Sophia at MMG Models Hair and makeup artist: Marisol Steward Shoot location: Catch Dubai


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T a l k ing P o i nt

By Natalie Trevis

In today’s world, a job for life is no longer an option and the opportunities for reinvention are endless. We take a look at what it means to follow a path of multiple careers.


Standing Tall, photographed by Seiji Fujimori, MOJEH Issue 18


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Punishing hours bring a dawning realisation that no matter how high you fly, how much you earn or how many glass ceilings are cracked, there isn’t always a way to find a meaningful balance. Which is why you have to love it to survive.


Choose a job you love and you’ll never work a day in your life. A beautiful sentiment, but perhaps easier said than done when you have to make rent. What if what you love is surfing, or acting, or exotic travel? It can take a lifetime to figure out how to turn your passion into a paying job or startup, much less a credible career. Perhaps, that’s why there are so many of us for whom that moment – when opportunity meets inspiration and something is sparked; a flicker of excitement that confirms that this is the one – comes a little later in life. Vera Wang set up her own label at age 40 after working as an editor at Vogue; J K Rowling was 32 when the first of the Harry Potter bestsellers was published; Lupita Nyong’o was a fresh-faced 30 at the time of her breakout role in Twelve Years a Slave. “I finally felt like I didn’t have to prove anything to anyone and could pursue what I loved,” says tech executive-turned-fine jewellery designer Reem Mobassaleh of RYM Jewelry. “Or, maybe I just stopped paying attention to what other people were thinking. I believe there has been a taboo in the past against women in the creative industries... that, perhaps, if they went into those fields, it was because they weren’t up to more ‘difficult’ careers.” “I suppose I thought being a lawyer would be a good idea and it seemed like the sensible thing to do after leaving school,” sums up Alyce Tran, who left the legal world when her line of monogrammed accessories, The Daily Edited, took off. “I didn’t

thinking that could prove inspirational in a new role. Repackaging

really see a path or how I could contribute when I left school to

your talents to emphasise core strengths such as these, can, in

the creative industry.” Yet, no matter how much you Lean In, the

many circumstances, more than compensate for what may be

sensible option isn’t always the right one. Punishing hours bring a

lacking in solid experience,” she added.

dawning realisation that no matter how high you fly, how much you

Flexible working hours, freedom from micromanagement and

earn or how many glass ceilings are cracked, there isn’t always a

inspiring work are just some of the intangible benefits that are

way to find a meaningful balance. Which is why you have to love

gradually taking priority in our career choices. With today’s

it to survive. I can relate. It took years, six of them dedicated to

youngest workers predicted to hold up to 15 jobs in a lifetime,

studying and training, to realise that my dream career as a media

we’re no longer even looking for a career for life that will simply pay

lawyer wasn’t my dream after all. Like many millennials born into

the bills, but something more meaningful – a job with purpose. “If

the economic boom of the early Eighties – a time that was more

you have never been an entrepreneur, it can be daunting to start

Wolf of Wall Street than Into the Wild – the corporate ideal was

a new career,” says Shelina. “However, there are moments when

held up as the gold standard of achievement. My tipping point

your new path is straight and it is all worth it. My only regret is the

came after an out-of-the-blue move from London to Manila for

paycheck (I do cry when I pass Chanel), but the returns in freedom

my husband’s career. The new country and sense of adventure

and my health are worth the sacrifice.” Set your own goals, advises

was just the catalyst needed to re-train in fashion design and

Alyce, “there’s no definite career path in the entrepreneurial world;

styling, and from there, hustle my way into freelance work as a

your personal development is in your own hands!”

fashion stylist, then in the Middle East; each editorial, commercial

Like any significant life change, none of this happens in a vacuum.

or movie set leading to another, exploring everything until I knew

A job isn’t something separated from our everyday lives anymore,

I had found my niche.

but a lifestyle choice, as crucial to our vision of ourselves as our

“I was drained and exhausted from working very long hours and

family, friends and passions. Malcolm Gladwell once described

travelling. I was burnt out,” recalls Shelina Jokhiya, founder of

the late bloomer narrative as the ultimate love story. Behind every

organising service DeCluttr Me, about her time as senior legal

career change, crisis of confidence or creative drought is a loyal

counsel. “I started looking into being a professional organiser,

partner, friend, parent or mentor, offering words of wisdom or

which I had dreamt about doing since 2003, and I realised that

a financial stability that offers the other the space to dream. “I

I could make a business out of being organised and be the first

love what I’m doing professionally and even though I find myself

one in the region to do it.”

working longer hours than I used to, I’m really happy,” says Reem.

Those that make the switch or catch the break rarely look back.

“That has carried over a lot into my personal relationships.” If I’ve

The experience and multiple skill sets gained along the way is

learnt anything from my own path of career detours and carving

the very advantage that will help you soar. “I’ve found now that

out a new, more authentic version of myself in the fashion industry,

because I didn’t have a traditional path to design, my work in

it’s that there’s no single way to succeed. No one other than you

the fine jewellery industry is quite distinct,” says Reem. “I drew

can decide whether you are where you ‘should’ be. We’re lucky

a lot of inspiration for the modularity behind the jewellery line

to possess the freedom to make career choices, and to change

from the work I was doing in the tech space. “Problem-solving,

them if they aren’t working for us. So, like the trailblazing women

communication skills and strategic reasoning are just a few of

featured in this Issue, use your freedom, share your dreams, find

the transferable skills that are relevant to every industry, not to

a cheerleader, make a plan and just keep going. It might not work

mention a diverse network of contacts and a different way of

out how or when you expect, but taking the leap is all that matters.


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D e sig n er I nter vie w

9 Ways to Keep

the Fun in Fashion Deborah Lloyd, president and creative director of Kate Spade New York, has been at the helm for over eight years. From novelty bags to kitsch shoes, she is an integral part of building a brand that pushes seriousness to the side. Here’s how to keep fashion feeling fresh and most importantly, fun.

and men, showcase and complement a range of personal styles. This celebration of one-ofa-kind, thought-provoking women will continue throughout the year, and beyond. 5- I love to garden and spend time with my husband and my two dogs. I also enjoy spending any extra time that I have travelling. It is also where I get my best inspiration! 6- As our line has evolved, we’ve made sure to stick to the brand DNA – still modern, feminine, colourful and playful. We strongly believe in a pop of colour, a sense of humour, and a strong sense of optimism. Whether that’s through a printed tee or a playful shoe, we work to inspire

Creative Director Deborah Lloyd

1- Every day is different, that’s why I love what

women and offer them pieces that embody the

I do – no fear of being bored! I’m very involved

optimistic and bold spirit we live by.

from the beginning concept stage to fabric and print selections and sketching and design

7- Every season brings a new opportunity to

review. One of my favourite parts of the job is

play with novelty. For me, it all depends on the

helping to style looks together for each season.

inspiration! Our woman is not afraid of bright colours or bold prints. She likes pieces that

2- We like to say that she is quick, curious,

start a conversation at a cocktail party – so, we

playful and strong. She is not a wallflower. She

always think about special ways to charm and

has a sense of humour and lives for adventure.

surprise her through design details.

Any girl that fits that description is a Kate Spade New York girl in my eyes. We inspire her to

8- Launching ready-to-wear was a major

lead a colourful life, in every sense of the word.

milestone. It was the first major category that we added when I arrived in 2008. It was so

3- I’m surrounded every day by incredibly

exciting to finally see what the Kate Spade

inspiring people, who love what they do.

New York girl would look like, the first step to

The 28th Street flower market in New York

fulfilling our lifestyle brand promise. I love the

City inspired this spring collection. If I wasn’t

fact that each day is different and I’m learning

working in fashion, I would open my own flower

something new.

shop. I grew up gardening and have always loved it! Receiving flowers is an easy way to

9- It is important to maintain a balance of

instantly brighten my mood.

creative and business. You need both.The nature of fashion is change and designers

4- At Kate Spade New York, we celebrate

know this. They are always moving forward and

interesting women leading interesting lives.

pushing boundaries.A successful collection is a

This means women of all shapes, sizes,

mixture of this and some easily understandable

backgrounds and ages. All of these women,

pieces. One without the other doesn’t work.


Behind the scenes for spring/summer 16


62

D e sig n er I nter vie w

Changing

L a n e s Fresh faced models backstage at the Anthony Vaccarello SS16 show

He sits at the helm of eponymous line Anthony Vaccarello, heads up Versus as creative director taking cues from none other than Donatella Versace herself, and more recently, he’s branched into beauty by way of a spirited collaboration with Lancôme. We talk to the man of the moment.


Anthony Vaccarello on Game Changing Moments What was your route in to fashion? As a teenager, I was more drawn towards photography. My cultural world was based on people like Steven Meisel, Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin… I was more passionate about images of fashion than fashion itself. After starting with classic studies, I realised I wanted to move into the artistic realm. I was living in Brussels and I spent two years studying textiles at the Fine Arts school, before applying to La Cambre in 2001. Can you recall your biggest learning curves there? The great thing is how practical it is. You touch the materials; you learn how to make clothes. And, the time you are given to discover who you are, to develop your own personal language without worrying about barriers in the real world, that’s just priceless. You won the Hyères Grand Prix in 2006 with your graduation collection. How did that feel? I didn’t think I had much of a chance of winning, because my style was far removed from the festival’s criteria: It was more about minimalism at the time. But, Ann Demeulemeester, who was presiding over the competition that year, was touched by my designs… it was a leather collection, so I’m sure that’s why I was contacted by Fendi. I had just finished my degree and moving to Rome was an

Versus SS16, designed by Anthony Vaccarello

opportunity to get back to my roots, because I’m half Italian. I stayed there for two years. five very couture dresses… they were unique pieces, If you had to keep one thing from your experience

and I sold them all! That really boosted my self-

at Fendi, what would it be?

confidence. With the money I’d earned, I made five

It was where I discovered the real world! The rules

swimsuits and five jackets. Then, at a dinner party

of the trade, fabric orders, schedules, budgets,

held by a mutual friend, I met somebody crucial:

constraints… and Karl Lagerfeld is a little like the

Lou Doillon. She was more than happy to pose

Michael Jackson of fashion, he’s THE star. He taught

in my clothes. And suddenly, my designs were in

me the meaning of courtesy. He might be at the top

the limelight. Our commercial strategy was very

of the ladder, but he’s still human. I left because I felt

selective from the start: The idea was to target

it was time for me to tell my own stories.

the best point of sale in every city before turning international straight away. The same goes for

Tell us about launching your label in 2009.

our image – the right face instantly positions

When I got back to Paris, I didn’t want to look for

a brand. For example, women like Lou Doillon

investors, so it was all a little under wraps at first.

and Charlotte Gainsbourg, who know how to

Everything started with an old work table and the

combine a miniskirt with a blouse… They have

money I had in my bank account. First of all, I created

a real sense of natural style. Anthony Vaccarello


64

You are also the artistic director of the Versus Versace line – what do you love most about this? Yes! It was like a dream come true. The brand has so many codes you can play around with in countless different ways. The asymmetries, the metallic details, the Nineties campaigns… and, in a way, working alongside the exuberance of Versace encourages me to try things I’d never have dared before for my own collections, such as using prints.

Anthony Vaccareollo on Beauty You have recently collaborated with Lancôme; what was it like working with them for your SS15 show? It was a wonderful introduction to this world before working on my collection of palettes. I love natural femininity and charisma, but working with a major beauty brand inspired me to go a little further, beyond nude shades. That’s why I worked with make-up artist Tom Pêcheux on a detail inspired by my collection, playing on something highly graphic, by simply highlighting the eyes or by creating the star “tattoo”. But, the key was not to go over the top. How does it embody beauty and women for you? Isabella Rossellini walking through the Trocadéro… Paolo Roversi’s “Trésor” ad in the Nineties... all the things I love: Naturalness, short hair, a woman in nothing but a trench coat. For me, Lancôme represents quintessentially French cosmetics and fragrances in its non-aggressive chic and excellent technical prowess. In a way, it reminds me of my own work: The make-up channels the woman’s personality, her inner aura. It doesn’t

Daria Werbowy for the new Lancôme Hypnose line in collaboration with Anthony Vaccarello

mask anything, it illuminates her true nature. And, it creates a certain allure, a kind of unembellished energy.

Anthony Vaccarello on Style Your Hypnôse Palettes are somewhat in the same How would you define your own style?

tone as your fashion, rather sombre…

I like to call it “dynamic urban”. My pieces are

Yes, but there’s still colour, which was a little scary for

architectural, not at all fragile. I don’t like the word

me at first! Having said that, once you start looking at

“sexy”, I prefer “attitude”, “freedom”… although

the subtlety of shimmer or blends of shades, it gets

I’ll admit not every woman would dare to wear

really exciting. And again, it’s not so far from my work

my miniskirts!

in fashion, where you often have touches of contrast, in gold or a colour such as green, which I’ve used

What are your sources of inspiration?

before and like a lot.

The SS15 beauty look

to see how they live, think and move. And I’m always

For this one, you chose Daria….

obsessive when it comes to lines, architecture and

Yes, it was the first time I’d met her. And it’s just

Helmut Newton-style seduction. I like to start with a

fantastic, because she’s one of those models every

detail, like a button or pattern… then I work on with

designer dreams of working with, but who does few

materials and textures. I need to drape the fabric

shows or none at all. This specific project was the

around a mannequin.

ideal opportunity to work together.

Nico for Lancôme © 2015

Talking to women, and not just about fashion. I need


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BY CONTACTING LOUIS FOURTEEN.

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66

D e sig n er I ns igh t

The Creator We delve into the creatively exquisite world of Italianbased Persian designer, Tomas Than.


There are so many different things that inspire what I do. I am very influenced by my personal background, the places I have visited, the cities I grew up in, my origins and my story. When designing and looking ahead, everything starts from an inspiration, from a thought, from a basic need that I feel. Culturally, I am most inspired by 20th century European architecture and design – people such as Le Corbusier, Lina Bo Bardi, Jean ProuvĂŠ, Charlotte Perriand and Giò Ponti. In creating a new piece, I have in mind a discrete, intellectual, cultured and fierce woman, who is able to recognise the quality of my pieces and who is willing to stand out with sartorial, tailored elegance. Trends are short-lived and temporary, but my creations, on the contrary, are timeless. They are seasonless items that can be forever passed on, thanks to their quality and solidity. The concreteness and substance of my designs lie at the very foundation of everything I create.

Designer Tomas Than


68

F a sh io n IN F O C U S

CRISP CLASSIC

1

Celebrate the wondrous power of the white shirt in all its contemporary elegance; from power-frills to bow tie details, classics never fail.

1. CHANEL | 2. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | 3. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 4. DEREK LAM @stylebop.com | 5. COACH | 6. TORY BURCH

2

3

5 4 6


1

TROUSER PARTY Accentuate and elongate in a range of trousers, crafted to suit the mood of the moment. From high-waisted and buttoned, to patterned and flared.

1. POCA & POCA | 2. ISA ARFEN @stylebop.com | 3. CH CAROLINA HERRERA | 4. GUCCI | 5. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 6. LOUIS VUITTON

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3

6 4

5


70

SHEER POWER Let the sensuality of see-through fabrics influence your daywear, from delicate

2 1

accessories in glass tones to structured tops in Chantilly lace.

1. CALVIN KLEIN | 2. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 3. BALMAIN | 4. LA PERLA | 5. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 6. CHLOÉ

3

6

4 5


NEW UTILITY

1

Form meets function in simple pieces built to complement the women of today, while regal heels and quirky rings add an overall charm.

1. CLAUDIE PIERLOT | 2. OSCAR DE LA RENTA | 3. CH CAROLINA HERRERA | 4. GUCCI | 5. VALENTINO | 6. CHLOÉ

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5

6

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72

F a sh io n I ns ig ht

Word on the

Street Meet the rising street style stars, whose fashion choices will inevitably be influencing our new year wardrobes.

Nausheen Shah Stylist and fashion contributor Nausheen Shah has many creative talents to her credit. From contributing to multiple high-profile fashion publications (whether writing or styling) to travelling the globe for Bergdorf Goodman, she knows trends – but, more importantly, she knows her own style. With Pakistani and Persian parents and growing up in Sheboygan, Wisconsin, her personal style is a fusion of cultures and contemporary mixed with classic. From pops of clashing colour to statement-making floral prints and tailored pieces, she’s now a regular face on the fashion circuit. Snapped by many a notable street style photographer during fashion week season, her ensembles are anything but dull. Turning against expectations placed upon her to study law or medicine, Nausheen wanted to pursue a passion, rather than a ‘stable’ profession. Garnering her love for fashion design from her self-taught mother – she regularly created bespoke pieces for her – she knew it was a creative process she had to be a part of, too. Moving to Italy to study at Polimoda University, she mastered the art of tailoring and then completed her studies at The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. From there, she secured jobs with Catherine Malandrino and Zac Posen. Dominating an array of fields, Nausheen is as fascinating as she is talented.


Gilda Ambrosio Designer and fashion consultant ‘Everything that exists is born for no reason, carries on living through weakness, and dies by accident’, a quote by Jean-Paul Sartre is the welcoming message to fashion’s It-girl Gilda Ambrosio’s website. One thing is clear: She is a complex woman. You can see it in her style. From her epic jet-black poker straight hair and her signature fluffy, shaggy coat to her larger-than-life shades, she doesn’t do ‘less is more’. Playing with elements of rock ‘n’ roll and urban bohemia, it isn’t hard to understand why the photographers scramble to snap her after every fashion show. But, who is she? She’s an all-round cool girl with nearly 80,000 followers on Instagram. The 22-year-old Naples-born, Milan-based designer is a brand consultant, trend hunter and Italian Grazia It-girl, who is quickly becoming a master of experimentation. Posting pictures of her style endeavours mixed with cityscapes, art and architecture, her day-to-day life looks like one big exploration. With a penchant for gold (über gold) accessories and a bold lip shade and dressing in emerging labels, she’s not like the rest of them. Frequently pairing pieces from her grandmother’s wardrobe with the latest must-have, she lusts after a fusion of old with new. It’s official:

Image courtesy of Getty

We have a major style crush.


74 AnkaTsitsishvili Owner of Index flat Russian street style stars have been gracing our screens for many moons now, but a new guard has arrived in town. Rivalling the likes of Miroslava Duma and Lena Perminova, Anka Tsitsishvili is one to watch. She’s less about oligarch-status heels and fur-lined attire, and more focused on avant-garde-meets-sportswear. It’s refreshing. With her thick, black messy locks and always-there lip ring, her laidback aesthetic could easily allow her to be mistaken for a bona fide Parisian. As the owner of Index flat, a fashion-focused accessories store based in Moscow, she is often papped wearing the labels she stocks. This may explain why the young businesswoman is geared toward marketing young, up-and-coming designers. From armour-inspired knitwear from LALO and mismatched footwear from Tatuna Nikolaishvili to Russia-inspired pieces from Asiya Bareeva, she’s a walking advertisement for emerging labels. With nearly 22,000 followers on Instagram, her arty snaps are delightfully inspiring. Taking us deeper into Russian culture or travelling with her across seas, Anka teaches us about adopting a less-is-more attitude. Having been photographed outside countless shows during fashion week season, she’s caught the attention of many a fashion editor, critic and style-lover across the industry.


Jenny Walton Fashion illustrator Sharing an uncanny likeness to Hollywood icon Audrey Hepburn, Jenny Walton embodies an understated elegance from another time. One only has to flick through her Instagram (with more than 72,000 followers and counting) to see her unfaltering sartorial choices – always simple, sophisticated and timeless. From Fiftiesstyle billowing skirts and chic silk blouses to classic headscarves, her styling talent is envious. Drawing to pass the time during her daily commute in New York City, Jenny developed and discovered her skills as an illustrator. Now, it’s her full-time job. Sharing her work via social media, she sketches everything from Marni-inspired line-ups to minimal figure drawings. Having been photographed by renowned street style photographers Tommy Ton and Scott Schulman of The Sartorialist several times, she’s rising through the ranks. As a graduate of Parsons School of Design, it’s easy to see Image courtesy of Getty

why she’s adopted a sketching style that’s all her own. Taking the latest designs from Prada or Gucci, she reinterprets them with originality and showcases them on her website, MarkersandMicrons.com. With photos captured on her Instagram containing backgrounds like something pulled from a Fellini film or Roman Holiday, a day in her life seems very appealing.


76

t a l k ing p o i nt

Sketch in Style There’s a wave of stylish fashion illustrators-turned-bloggers who are taking over the Internet. But, is trading in traditional craft for commercial viability a savvy business move? By Christopher Prince

Illustrated by Megan Hess


Illustrated by Caroline Andrieu

Like so many art forms, fashion illustration takes time to perfect. As opposed to the industry, where job roles often blur into one amalgam, a mere pretender can’t emulate the craft of a well-drawn sketch. Enter the modern day fashion illustrator, an enigma of creativity, business acumen and sartorial style. She’s a triple-edged sword. When someone is gifted with the ability to draw, it’s often a free-for-all for the industry to utilise their talents. There’s proof that when collaborations work, they can reap huge commercial success. Raf Simons for example, commissioned the work of render-artist Brian

years ago, I began posting my illustrations on

Calvin for his spring/summer 2013 menswear

Instagram daily. I was really strategic about

collection. The print was so successful that it

who or what I was illustrating,” explains

went viral online, and eventually materialised

artist Jeanette Getrost (@jeanettegetrost). “I

into a mass-market t-shirt design. Then,

would specifically illustrate people or brands

there are designers like Miuccia Prada, who

I wanted to work with, or that I thought would

embrace art to influence their own work.

repost. In the beginning, it was really about

She recently recruited the likes of Megan

gaining exposure and building a following.

Hess, Carly Kuhn and Judith van den Hoek,

Now, it is essentially my portfolio, and still

among others, to conjure a unique illustrated

the number one way in which people find

character to front her new Prada Raw eyewear

me.” Getrost currently has 86.4 thousand

campaign. “I was briefed to create a femme

followers on social media platform Instagram.

fatale character that we would then animate,”

Her following has garnered collaborations with

explains Megan Hess (@meganhess_official).

the likes of Chanel, Estée Lauder and her most

“What made it exciting was that I had the

recent venture, Coach. “Over the summer, I

opportunity to create a narrative for what

sketched at Coach’s annual High Line event in

would happen. It was difficult, because we

New York. I had sketched at numerous events

had to create a lot of different frames, but it

prior, but there’s something really special

was a fun collaborative process.”

about working in an entirely different location.

Hess found fame through illustrating the

Social media gives people the opportunity to

covers of the famous Sex and the City books

become part of a community regardless of

“about 10 years ago”. “That was the time

experience. I don’t think I would have been

where a lot of the brands I now work with

able to connect with the amount of brands

today discovered my work. There wasn’t really

and people that I have.”

social media then, but it has had an influence

From a personal perspective, perhaps the

on my work.” Being the savvy businesswoman

reason why fashion illustration is now having

she is, Hess utilised social media to gain a fan

its moment is because we, as the consumer,

following – on Instagram alone, she boasts

are yearning for a little breathing space. We’re

almost 200,000 followers. “It’s something

bombarded with hyper-realised, retouched

that has naturally built and built. It’s gotten

photographs and ‘selfies’ that hit us tenfold

to a stage now where the great thing is I can

on a daily basis, yet when a fashion illustration

promote my work without it being a hard sell.”

crops us on our feed, more often that not, we

Forcing business is often a common

stop and evaluate.

misconception when it comes to having an

Before the age of the blurry Instagram catwalk

online presence. Yet, for fashion illustrators,

photo, illustrators used to sit courtside at

it’s an essential step in building a brand

fashion shows and draw directly from the

around such an old-school profession.“Two

models. Specialist fashion week illustrator


78

Illustrated by Jeanette Getrost

Fashion illustrators aren’t just confined to pen and paper – they’re styling, studying and modeling in order to be self-sufficent – Walton herself is a favourite street style subject of Scott Schuman at The Sartorialist.


Jenny Walton(@jennymwalton) is keeping that tradition alive. She attends shows like any other fashion editor or buyer at all the major fashion weeks around the world. The only difference is that her sketchbook is for sartorial scribbles only. “(I like to) see and absorb as much as I can. Sometimes, it’s more valuable to be present in the moment than to produce something right away.” For her, social media has given her the ability to “explore one career while maintaining another, because now your audience comes to you, as do employers.” Though social media offers many pitfalls, it’s a platform that has opened up the possibilities

to

explore

multi-career

trajectories. Fashion illustrators aren’t just confined to pen and paper – they’re styling, studying and modeling in order to be selfsufficent – Walton herself is a favourite street style subject of Scott Schuman at The Sartorialist. Yet, compared with other fashion personalities like Susanna Lau of Style Bubble and Bryan Boy, fashion illustrators never expected their talent to be their sole meal ticket. It probably explains why Megan Hess has honed her craft to illustrate her latest book, Coco Chanel: The Illustrated World of a Fashion Icon, which has toured from Dubai to New York. And, there are other ventures too. “Over the last couple of years, I’ve been

Illustrated by Jenny Walton

designing and creating interior items such as rugs, wallpaper, cushions and vases. I’m

For Jenny Walton, the art of balancing a career

soon to release a tabletop collection, which

in illustration means she can pursue different

involves linens and plates – it’s an area I

tangents of the art world. “I have my BFA from

have a passion for.”

Parsons in Fashion Design, where I studied

Fashion illustration also offers a reprieve

construction, drawing, fashion history, art and

for those who have managed to balance

design history, and many more classes in

industry careers alongside creative pursuits,

addition to those. I’m interested in learning as

like artist Caroline Andrieu (@wasteland).

much as I can about art and design.”

“I’ve been working at French GQ for four

Being a modern-day fashion illustrator for the

years as the deputy art director, (meanwhile)

masses might not be as black and white as

working on a fashion city guide with Carole

an ink drawing, but that doesn’t mean their

Sabas, beauty editor at large of Vogue Paris.

work isn’t bespoke or special. Like the artists

I illustrated something like 30 drawings for

themselves, maybe the industry just needs to

the book. It’s a beautiful object. I would love

move with the times – that way, we’ll see more

to make a book myself… we’ll see.”

of the real and less of the fake.


80

Ta l k ing P o i nt

One Step

Closer Sustainable, ethical, net zero, eco-friendly: Buzzwords increasingly associated with the drive to produce fashion more mindfully. But, what do they really mean, and will sustainability ever be synonymous with luxury? We take a look at whether it’s ever truly possible to wear our green credentials on our backs.

By Natalie Trevis

What do you think about when you think of

absence of forced labour, a consideration of the

ethical fashion? Hemp bags, shapeless organic

environmental impact including animal welfare,

t-shirts and droopy shift dresses? No longer.

using raw materials that are non-toxic, natural

It’s time to reset our impression of a movement

or recycled or which consume fewer resources,

that’s quickly becoming a celebration of uniquely

and an emphasis on fair wages and respect for

crafted pieces that refuse to sacrifice style.

workers (there’s often a stark difference between

Sustainable fashion these days is just as likely

a living wage and a legal minimum wage). So far,

to encompass a Loro Piana vicuña and cashmere

so reasonable. Siddequa is aiming to kickstart

coat with a price tag of $15,000 – the vicuña is

a process of enlightenment in the region about

a South American relative of the llama that the

the danger of maintaining the status quo. “For

brand has virtually saved from extinction – as it

too long, the business model for the fashion

is a streetwise Christopher Raeburn upcycled

industry has been to outsource production to

coat, constructed from dead-stock military wool

drive down costs. This has resulted in unsafe

and parachute silk. The beauty is that, in both

labour conditions, low wages, and oppressive

cases, while sustainability is a predominant factor

expectations for millions of workers,” she tells us.

in the creation of such beautiful pieces, the end

“The age of information has exposed us to these

result is inherently deluxe. These days it’s in (not

conditions, and has touched our conscience.”

forgetting chic) to be eco.

The human aspect of how our clothes are made

But, what exactly does it mean to be an ethical

has rightly received renewed attention in the

fashion brand? “It represents an approach

wake of the Rana Plaza tragedy, in which a

to the design, sourcing and manufacture of

garment factory linked with the production of

clothing, which maximises benefits to people

clothing for many high profile fast fashion brands

and communities, while minimising impact on the

(including Benetton, El Corte Inglés, H&M, Inditex

environment,” according to the Ethical Fashion

and Walmart among many others) collapsed

Forum. Ayesha Siddequa, designer, fashion

in Bangladesh, killing over 1,000 people in

consultant and founder of Future Fashion, an

2013. The brands involved were publicly held

online platform bringing together sustainable

to account and, two years later, the voluntary

brands in the Middle East, goes further. Her

trust fund created to compensate workers and

minimum standards include fair trade, the

their families finally reached its $30m target.

Born Free, photographed by Marco Cella, MOJEH Issue 28


Ethical fashion represents an approach to the design, sourcing and manufacture of clothing, which maximises benefits to people and communities while minimising impact on the environment.


82 But there is much, much more to the human

areas such as education and cultural heritage) in

the craftspeople and the brand. After all, doesn’t

angle. Stella Jean, known for transposing

Brazil, along with the Ethical Fashion Initiative’s

every dress tell its own tale? “I always thought

African prints onto high fashion forms in vibrant

work in Haiti. Quality is a priority for both labels,

there was such a big gap in the market between

colour, is focused on another human aspect

who are cult fixtures on the fashion week circuit

the people who sell fashion and the people who

that is inextricably tied to the slow fashion

both on and off the runway, and the juggling act

actually create it. We have an opportunity to bring

campaign: The preservation of ancient traditions.

demonstrates that style and sustainability are

forth the stories of the people, mostly women,

“Everything is based on the principle of increase

not mutually exclusive. “Today, the involvement

who are passing skills from one generation to

in value, economic impact and respect for

is mainly with Haiti, my mother’s homeland, and

the next.” The stories, crafts and limited edition

the territory, resources and traditions of the

it’s deeply linked to the strong attachment I have

nature of handmade products feed into a sense

local communities, who must be supported,”

for this land and its traditions,” Jean explains.

of individualism; exclusivity even. “Even big

says Jean,“while at the same time preserving

“The aim is to help women and artisanal local

brands like Hermès, they talk about stories,” says

ancestral knowledge – at risk of extinction –

communities rediscover their skills, to help them

Mustafa. A story adds dimension to a brand’s

and opposing the debasing effect of imperialist

become economically independent. Almost all

appeal. “If I am spending thousands on a bag,

homogenisation.” Jean’s travels have taken

of the accessories in my latest collection were

I know a lot of women who can buy [the same

her from Haiti to Mali to Burkino Faso, on her

produced by the artisans of Jacmel and Croix-

thing]. Why should I spend that money on a well

quest to develop aspects of her collections

des-Bouquets.”

known brand when I can get something for a

from hand-woven cotton textiles to bespoke

“I’ve lived in many different countries and I’ve

little bit less that’s very unique and when I walk

bogolan (printed cloth produced with organic

seen fashion created by skilled artisans,” says

into a room, people are going to look at me and

dye) and jewellery charms. Likewise, Osklen,

Ayesha Mustafa, founder of Fashion Compassion,

ask ‘where is that from?’” A unique piece that

designed by UNESCO Goodwill ambassador and

an online retail edit of ethical fashion brands from

also secures a livelihood in a developing nation?

former doctor, Oskar Metsavaht, partners with

around the world. She sees the human aspect

Sounds like a win-win.

Instituto-E, a non-profit organisation dedicated

not just in the cause for fair wages and decent

That doesn’t mean there aren’t inherent struggles

to promoting sustainable human development (in

working conditions, but in linking the stories of

in running a small label, striving for sustainability


The Spanish collection by Mochi, a homegrown brand that focuses on destination collections and local craftsmanship, designed by Ayah Tabari

Image courtesy of Mochi.

Behind the scenes at the colourful Stella Jean autumn/winter 2015 show in Milan

in an industry that is not so much riding a wave

taking itself too seriously, is LA-based label

of changing trends and racing seasons as a

Reformation. Founded in 2009 by Yael Aflalo,

tsunami. “In all honesty, so many brands I was

whose goal is “to make killer clothes without

working with do not even exist any more,” admits

killing the environment,” everything is designed

Mustafa. “That’s the sad part. It is very hard if

and produced in a sustainable factory in LA,

you are a small brand to fund a sustainable

allowing the brand to control the supply chain

business. A lot of brands are stuck in a retail

from start to finish. Even the tags on the clothes

cycle of sale and return, which doesn’t work

are an irreverent reminder that the brand’s

because they pay their artisans before they sell

focus is refreshingly different: “Whether it’s a

their products.” CFDA-backed artisanal jewellery

repurposed vintage piece or a sustainable fabric

and accessories brand, A Peace Treaty, defines

tee, we want that garment’s impact on the planet

itself by a small-scale, honestly made global

to be as low as possible. After all, there’s nothing

ethos. As designer Dana Arbib told us in MOJEH

less sexy than leaving a big nasty mess.” All

Issue 31, the brand’s aim is to “create an iconic,

clothing, from carefree party dresses to wool-

handmade, travel-rich lifestyle brand and to make

blend outerwear, focuses on eco-fabrication,

slow fashion fashionable”. Does Arbib believe

using materials that are new and sustainable (like

this is a model that can be sustained as the

Tencel, which consumes less water in production

brand grows? “Absolutely. We’re concentrating

than cotton), repurposed from vintage clothing,

on working with certain countries that have the

or rescued deadstock from fashion houses that

possibility to grow our production and produce

over order. As a consumer, there’s nothing better

seasonal and ‘core’ A Peace Treaty items. We

than chic clothing that comes with a dose of

figure out what everybody does best, and spread

environmental satisfaction. As the brand’s tagline

the work accordingly.” Working with skilled

goes, Join the Reformation.

artisans in community projects might be an ideal

The cause is strengthened by a new wave

way to create bespoke pieces, but there is a

of designers, who are not converting to

natural limit to the volume of product that can

sustainability halfway through the lifespan of a

ever be produced in such a small scale way. “You

brand but, like Reformation and Raeburn, right

need to tackle sustainability in a way where it

from the outset. “I think if you look at design

can be mass produced,” says Mustafa. “Where

institutions now, especially in the UK and the

people can get it at a cheaper price, can get it

US, sustainability is a huge part of what they

quickly and you still know how it’s made. It has to

teach their designers,” explains Mustafa. “How

compete with fast fashion for it to be mainstream.”

do you eliminate waste from your design when

One brand that might have the answer, and

you are creating samples? How can you involve

which is seeking to make a change without

more artisan-based communities? When you’re


84

Carbon-neutral Brazilian label Osklen translates sustainability into luxury

Consumers are sending a clear message: We care about the origins of what we wear.

Stella McCartney image courtesy of Getty.

Cruise 2016 collection, by animal rights activist Stella McCartney


studying as a young designer, those are the

business if they fail to adequately address their

You only need factor in international shipping

sort of messages you are getting and it’s key

social responsibilities. “Corporate responsibility

(carbon footprint) or an unreliable supply chain

in changing the dynamic.” With mentors like

will be directly linked to a luxury company’s

component to find chinks in the sustainable

Stella McCartney – famous for her leather and

profitability in the future,” said Jonathan Kendall

armour. Yet, we’re one step closer. The leap

fur-free collections – Livia Firth (who recently

of the confederation. Consumers are sending

is in the quality of pieces that are not just

enlisted Erdem to create an eco collection for

a clear message: We care about the origins

conscious in their chosen aspects of the

her Green Carpet Challenge) and Valentino, who

of what we wear. As a result, luxury fashion

sustainable game, but stylish, luxurious and

have committed to eliminating all hazardous

giants such as LVMH are more active in this

one-of-a-kind desirable. Because, let’s face

chemicals used throughout the production

area than ever before. As well as publishing

it, nobody wants to go back to the hemp

cycle by January 2020, the next generation of

an annual environmental report, LVMH is

days. To change the ingrained behaviour of

talent simply cannot afford to ignore the ethics

currently a member of the United Nations Global

both consumers and designers alike, change

of design. At the very least, being seen to be

Compact, which requires signatories to apply

needs to be inspiring, enlightening and,

actively pursuing sustainable goals is no longer

and promote 10 principles in the fields of human

most importantly, fashionable. It is possible

optional. There’s simply too much at stake.

rights, labour and the environment. “Even if a

to make ethical fashion a reality across the

The same goes for our jewels, where the origins

designer doesn’t want to be ‘sustainable’, they

board – “Luxury brands should simply take

and mining practices of gemstones have been

are asking more questions about their supply

less away from reality,” says Jean. “It’s about

under scrutiny for decades. Gemstone suppliers

chains in general.’” says Mustafa. “I think slowly

a simple awareness of the reality and the

like Gemfields understand that integrity from mine

education, awareness, governmental policy and

historical context in which we live, without

to market is essential on both an environmental

what consumers want will change the way the

alienating ourselves.” As we wake up to our

and social level. Not just for the customer’s peace

industry looks at things.”

combined potential to change, we can make

of mind, but from a commercial standpoint. A

It’s impossible to do it all. There’s no single brand

greener choices that allow us to look good,

study by The World Jewellery Confederation

that can satisfy every environmental and social

feel good and do good without compromising

in 2013 revealed that luxury brands may lose

concern from fibre to factory to packaging.

on style or quality. Sounds sustainable to me.


86

NEW MONDRAIN

Fa sh io n b a n q ue t

ELIE SAAB

Delve into a linear seduction of arty textures as primary tones and subtle silhouettes intermingle to create a new elegance. Ochre yellow and brick red accentuate the body, while easy sandals and simple heels evoke modern sensibilities. Olive gold and deep purple add a touch of the majestic.


3 1. LOUIS VUITTON | 2. NATHALIE TRAD | 3. FATEMA FARDAN | 4. BINT THANI | 5. FENDI | 6. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 7. VALENTINO | 8. KAGE

1 2 4 6 5

8 7


NINE TO FIVE

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MOSCHINO

Exude strength in a two-piece suit or combine heritage watches with luxe-leather and elegant loafers for a contemporary approach to work wear. As the modern woman’s lifestyle broadens with endless opportunities, so does her wardrobe – 2016 is all about the power players.


1. ROLAND MOURET at Harvey Nichols | 2. JIMMY CHOO | 3. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | 4. CÉLINE | 5. BVLGARI | 6. VERSACE | 7. CHRISTIAN DIOR | 8. CLAUDIE PIERLOT

3 1 2

4 5 7 6

8


URBAN SLEEK

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bottega veneta

The new city girl has two necessities – oversize faux-fur and easy to wear shoes. Let a contemporary sense of ease wash over you as burgundy bags and blue lace tops flow seamlessly with graphic eyewear and easy-to-wear accessories in brightening shades of opal grey.


1

1. VICTORIA BECKHAM | 2. GREY ANT @ TheExposedHouse.com | 3. PRADA | 4. STELLA MCCARTNEY | 5. CHLOÉ | 6. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 7. LOUIS VUITTON | 8. SANDRO

2

3

4

5 6

7

8


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Image courtesy of Getty

T a l k i ng P o i nt


Gucci

I Think We’re Moving Too Fast From Raf Simons’s shock exit out of Dior to Alexander Wang’s decision to step away from Balenciaga to concentrate on his own label, the current state of fashion is being questioned. Are we moving too fast?


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The fashion industry is no stranger to speed.

time for ideas,” said Raf Simons, during an

Designers can appear to play a musical game

interview with System (an independent magazine

of chairs as they hop from one label to the next,

based in London), before he, after three-and-a-

churning out (at least) six collections per year,

half years, decided not to renew his contract with

and leaving a feeling of a merry-go-round style

Dior during the summer. “Technically speaking, it

state of play. January is haute couture; March

works, but does it work for me emotionally? No,

is ready-to-wear; May is cruise; July couture

because I’m not the kind of person who likes to do

again; September ready-to-wear again; November

things so fast,” he told interviewer Cathy Horyn.

resort, menswear, jewellery collections, capsule

Although the interview took place before the news

collections, collaborations... but has the system

broke, one thing was clear: He couldn’t go on.

reached its speed limit and finally crashed? “When

Simons released a statement saying his decision

you do six shows a year, there’s not enough time

was “based entirely and equally on my desire to

for the whole process … you have no incubation

focus on other interests in my life, including my

All images courtesy of Getty

Behind the scenes during Haute Couture autumn/winter 15


own brand, and the passions that drive me outside

MOJEH interviewed her back in 2014, she told

my work”. In other words, he needed to preserve

us: “I love being incognito and very much value

a work-life balance.

my freedom.” Or, Hedi Slimane, who packed up

It’s not just the clothes they have to consider.

his Saint Laurent studio for a more laidback life

There’s the advertising campaigns, personal

in Los Angeles. Designers throwing their weight

appearances, store openings, global visits, trunk

around, so to speak, are having the most success

shows, museum exhibitions, interviews, and not

in protecting their well-being. But, with little known

to forget the strong social media presence. Is it

designers being snapped up to take over the

any wonder then that designers are struggling to

helm at brands (Alessandro Michele at Gucci and

keep up the pace? Esteemed fashion journalist

Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga), they may be less

Suzy Menkes put her thoughts into words for

likely to push for protection. In our interview with

Vogue UK’s website, in her article ‘Why Fashion

Gvasalia, before he’d been announced as Wang’s

Is Crashing’, addressing issue after issue,

predecessor, we asked him: “What opportunities

challenging the industry’s current set-up. She

do you get as a young label that you never had

wrote: “Designers – by their nature sensitive,

whilst working for a well-known luxury brand in

emotional and artistic people – are being asked

Paris?” In reference to his job as creative director

to take on so much. Too much.” Highlighting the

for the up-and-coming Parisian brand Vetements,

moral are tales of John Galliano and Marc Jacobs’s

he replied: “The freedom, which is the biggest

substance abuse issues: “We all think of Lee

luxury of all.”

McQueen and his tragic ending; of Marc Jacobs

The lines are blurring between what we’ve come to

lurching through his punishing schedule until he

know as ‘fast fashion’ with luxury. Respected trend

finally gave up Louis Vuitton for his own label.

forecaster Li Edelkoort declared many months ago

With Dior again in the news, the fashion world

that ‘this is the end of fashion as we know it’. “The

gulps and thinks of John Galliano, his drunken

accumulation of a variety of elements indicates

anti-semitic raving and the shocking end to that

that the current fashion systems have reached

chapter of a brilliant career.” In an interview with

a vanishing point: A lack of design and textile

Vanity Fair, Galliano spoke of his own burnout: “With more collections, the crash happened more often, and then I was a slave to it.” Rightly so, Menkes concluded by praising Simons for “his

Dolce & Gabbana

brave stand”. And then, there’s Alexander Wang. In July, Balenciaga announced his departure from the brand after three-and–a-half years at its helm as creative director. “It’s been an incredible experience to work with a couture house in Paris,” Wang said in a statement. “I am honoured to have had the opportunity to work for this historical maison. I would like to thank the brilliant team at Balenciaga for this collaboration and for what we have accomplished together, and I am looking forward to taking my own brand to its next level of growth.” Working across the board for both Balenciaga and his own eponymous label, Wang’s creative visions were stretched across not one, but two houses. In a similar standing, the young upand-coming designer, J. W. Anderson, designs for his own label and Loewe. In an interview this year with MOJEH, we asked him how he protects his creative freedom. “I think you decide that yourself. I think that is something in the person. You know whatever you feel is right. At the moment, for me, it feels right to work at Loewe – if that makes sense? I feel completely creatively free in a very large company – because I live and breathe it. I pretend it in my head that it’s mine. [This allows me] to do my job,” he concluded. But, some designers have put protective mechanisms in place, like Phoebe Philo of Céline, who refuses to leave London for Paris. When

Jonathan Saunders


All images courtesy of Getty

96



98 education, dire manufacturing conditions and

sources of inspiration will feed the teaching of

unrealistic expansion expectations, overworked

other ways to design and conceive. Therefore,

designers and absurd delivery drops,” she told

trend forecasting will change as well, taking its

MOJEH, during an interview in March 2015. And

leads from social change and finding creative ideas

Edelkoort would know. For many decades, she

within lifestyle trends and consumer behaviour.

participated in the process by forecasting ‘the next

Like focusing on textiles, design and colours in

big thing’, but most importantly, she’s witnessed

favour of anecdotes, by analysing clothes from

the rapid acceleration of product-to-shelf. She

an anthropological point of view and celebrating

continued: “One sees an overdose of marketing

well-conceived clothes, rather than fashion.”

and a surplus of out-of-touch advertising, an

Everything needs to take one step back. Time

absence of responsible and critical journalism,

and consideration need to be applied to every

old-fashioned retail concepts dating from the 19th

aspect of the process. In a way, we have moved

and 20th century, a drastic economic slowdown

beyond our control. As a result, the quality of

and uninspired shoppers, who are no longer

reporting, designing, manufacturing and so on

interested in the recycling of vintage styles. This

have suffered, as quantity has taken precedent

means that the economy of clothes will take over

over quality.

from the turnover of fashion,” she continued.

But, not all designers are in complete agreement.

And, it’s not only the creative directors who are

The ‘Kings of Print’ design duo, Peter Pilotto and

struggling with the never-ending schedule; buyers

Christopher de Vos of Peter Pilotto, spoke of their

and editors are expected to keep up-to-date too.

desire to remain positive in our interview with

With the instant notifications on social media,

Peter in September 2015. “We always try to stay

the fashion powerhouses have to be one step

on the positive side with whatever is happening.

ahead of the rest. What’s Edelkoort’s solution?

I feel like the whole fashion cycle will keep on

“The designing of clothes will have to change and

changing. Some elements are still like they used

become more involved, more knowledgeable and

to be maybe in the Eighties rhythm, but obviously,

more inspired. Historic, folkloric and uniformed

the information flow is different nowadays. The whole system is going to change further, but I mean, it always has negatives and positives. It’s just important to remain positive,” he said. “It’s

Alexander Wang left Balenciaga

sometimes really great to have that deadline for a show collection, where loads have to be ready and then you can choose what you want to push further. There are lots of positive things in the process, besides the fact that the workload pretty much doubles since pre-collections. It is hard, but yet, it is a really exciting challenge,” he said. They made the decision to only introduce a precollection when they felt ready to do so and could cope with the demands placed upon them. “I feel like as a new brand, you should only start those pre-collections the moment you really feel ready for them. That’s why, at first, we started with pre – maybe four years ago, pre–fall. It is only our second that is in stores now. And, we haven’t shot it yet either, because we felt like we still wanted to test the waters before making it into a collection. It’s important to take it at a pace that feels right for you,” he said. But, with a continuing disconnect between creativity and commerce, going at a pace that suits a designer is exactly the problem in question. Six days after Raf Simons told the industry he was leaving Dior, the oldest surviving French fashion house, Lanvin, announced that its creative director, Alber Elbaz, was leaving the company, “on the decision of the company’s majority shareholder,” Elbaz said in a statement. Accepting an award during the Fashion Group International Award at the end of 2015, Elbaz spoke of the constraints placed on designers

All images courtesy of Getty

Marc Jacobs’s last show for Louis Vuitton


Raf Simon’s last show for Dior in October

today in an honest way that other designers, until

both his genuine character and kindness. In the

now, have refrained from doing. “We designers, we

past, when he’s been questioned as to when he

started as couturiers, with dreams, with intuition,

may leave the label, he’s always said he couldn’t

with feeling. We became ‘creative directors,’ so

leave because “they are my orchestra”. Although

we have to create, but mostly direct. And now, we

his departure was down to other driving factors,

have to become image-makers, creating a buzz,

he has long voiced his disdain toward the direction

making sure that it looks good in the pictures. The

the industry is currently taking saying, “I prefer

screen has to scream, baby.” First and foremost

whispering.” In short: Creativity and vision are

they are visionaries. Unlike Wang and Simons,

finite. Simons should be held up as a poster boy

Elbaz had been at Lanvin since 2001. Reviving the

for stepping down before the crash and burn. We

brand, he made it a favourite once again among

must consider the speed, distance and time of the

women, and celebrities like Meryl Streep and

current fashion cycle. As Mr. Elbaz said at FGI,

Natalie Portman. And, he was loved by all for his

“Everyone in fashion just needs a little more time.”


100

B e h i nd T h e Scene s

Sole

S u rv i vo r s For spring, Louis Vuitton shoes are forward-thinking, robust, and above all, exceptionally crafted. We visited the Fiesso d’Artico workshop in Italy to see exactly what it is that sets the brand apart. Inside the walls of Fiesso d’Art and the patio dedicated to artists.


The sole of a shoe is pieced together and tested for endurance in one of Fiesso d’Art’s special labs.

The very best leather and exotic skin cuts are utilized across the Taiga and Alma workshops.

Over recent months, Nicolas Ghesquière has showcased his Series 1, 2 and 3 exhibitions for the house he creatively directs – Louis Vuitton – making audiences privy to an elite and exceptional world, in which luxury is defined only by sheer dedication to craftsmanship, innovation and a quest for perfection. Within each series, footwear – which would take a backseat for many large fashion brands – is celebrated as a fundamental pillar. Fittingly, the department is housed under its own devoted roof. Like the fine leather goods workshop in Asnieres, France, and the watchmaking workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Fiesso d’Artico of Italy has been home to the brand’s dedicated artisans since 1998. Before that, craftsmen at the site enjoyed a worldwide reputation as shoemakers for Venetian aristocracy. Moving throughout the site and visiting each of its workshops and projects, one finds Alma, dedicated to elegant women’s shoes, Speedy for sneakers, Nomade for the brand’s famous moccasins, Taiga, where men’s brogues are moulded and perfected, and finally, the outstanding interior patio, a dedicated space for artists, in which an emotional and passionate investment from all of those involved is evident. Something extraordinary can be felt within the seamlessly designed walls. Sketches of the new collection are studied closely, materials are tested for endurance in special labs, and artisans, who have dedicated entire careers to the Louis Vuitton mould, shape and – in many cases – hand-make the next series of shoes. For cruise ’16, Fiesso d’Artico, aka ‘The Land of Shoes’, has shipped out a forward-thinking collection, in which smart trainers lead the parade, brocade embroidered brogues add feminine accents, and tough desert boots offer function to free flowing dresses.

A craftsman works on closing the shoe.

This python leather and malleiage stud shoe awaits the next stage in its production.

Nothing gets lost in the quest for quality and endurance, close attention to detail is a Fiesso d’Art must.


102

B e h i nd th e Scene s

A Walk with

Miu Miu This season, Miuccia Prada takes the Miu Miu girl on a beautifully destructive road to hedonistic crusading, as models such as Lindsey Wixson and Mica Arganaraz adorn rave ready prints and grunge worthy beauty looks. We went backstage to absorb all the anarchy.


Miu Miu progressed beyond its usual ladylike retro style into more destructively reckless fashion territory

The juxtaposition of bold patterns makes for an impactful statement


104

In an ode to Steven Tyler, foxtail earrings are revived with a rock star welcome

Sixties hemlines were given a modern touch with eclectic colours and graphic prints


Channelling the underground workings of a popular nightclub, Palais

strips were plastered over dresses, as shiny latex fabrics appeared

d’Iéna in Paris, formed the stage for Miu Miu’s cruise 2016 collection.

futuristic. Laser cutouts became a feature, as did voluminous coats

Miuccia Prada, the creative mind behind the brand, successfully

and oversized earrings. The remnants of an all-night club crawl gained

delivered another standout performance.The historic venue was

light with muddled hair and coal-lined eyes.

transformed into a thriving techno rave with scaffolding lining the

Mica Arganaraz kicked off the proceedings donning a bold

elevated runway, adding an industrial element to the area. Neon strip

monochromatic graphic with thoughtfully provoked bursts of fire hydrant

lights illuminated the room and curtains resourcefully fabricated out

red. The model line-up saw the return of Lindsey Wixon, sporting the

of construction site plastic hung in space. The lingering allure of the

exact print that made her famous back in 2010, when she was just 15.

brand’s sweet-smelling fragrance consumed the audience as disco

Her expression seamlessly encompassed the fundamental essence of

tech beats set the tone for the show. The star-studded event charmed

the Miu Miu spirit. Experimental by nature, Miu Miu’s constant ability

many a celebrity, with Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Maggie

to diversify each season, whilst maintaining its clearly identifiable

Gyllenhaal in attendance. Ms. Prada’s constant game-changing ability

aesthetic, is what sets the brand apart. This season, the label’s sister

to reinvent the label in a positive and creative notion is what drives

brand Prada produced somewhat similar concepts. Connections can

her audience’s curiosity in the brand.

be likened through primary colouring, eccentric pattern clashing and

Purposefully marching down the runway, the collection offered

a nod to a distant era. The collection remained faithful to the brand’s

noticeable influences derived from decades past. Circle skirts

roots, as archived prints were revitalised and paired with new-season

referenced Fifties styles, shift dresses were taken for the Sixties and

construction.Inspiration was envisioned through the brands now-iconic

the disco fever of the Eighties was re-envisioned through vinyl fabrics.

SS10 collection, with recognisable graphics of naked ladies, cats and

Statement foxtail earrings adorned models, heavy metal hardware

swallows reworked. This time round, the collection adopted a hybrid

and pointed toe cowboy boots. Gritty punk designs reflected the

of retro and space age elements in a contemporary fusion. Shying

chaotic buzz of a popular underground hotspot. There was a powerful

away from earlier girlie designs and opting for an edgier attitude

fusion of contrasting patterns in an eclectic mix of prints. Hazardous

ignites the contradictory excitement forming the Miu Miu identity.


106

The Mood

1

Manus X Machina High-tech fabrics, laser sintering and sci-fi inspiration: The fashion industry is racing towards a digital future.


3

2

As the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute announces the theme of its 2016 show, Manus x Machina: Fashion In An Age of Technology, we prepare for an avant garde visual feast of boundary pushing materials, challenging structures and technological surprises from creatives ranging from Cristóbal Balenciaga to Riccardo Tisci. Designers have frequently explored the dichotomy between man-made and handmade, both of which define luxury in their own way. The former is a celebration of all that is new in the technical arts of 3-D printing, ultrasonic moulding and thermoshaping, and the latter a labour of love, an investment in the time and expertise of a skilled artisan, as much as a beautiful dress in its own right. The fantastical work of Iris Van Herpen and Rodarte often seems to have been conjured in a laboratory: Technical form, whimsy and innovation colliding in glistening fabrics and futuristic forms for autumn/winter. Likewise, Chanel offered a digitally enhanced haute couture collection, its signature jacket reimagined in 3-D printed moulded form, lending an Ex Machina air to bewigged Chanel model clones. Shot in detail for MOJEH Issue 31, the creations have a life of their very own, independently structured and voluminous, as if the wearer remains invisibly inside. Likewise, aside from the Met exhibition itself, there’s fun to be had in speculating on how the concept will be 1. RODARTE | 2. MUGLER | 3. IRIS VAN HERPEN

interpreted by the stars gracing the red carpet come May. One thing is for sure – the fashion dial will, in every case, be set to hyperspeed.


108

Diamond earrings and layered rings, WALTERS FAITH | Mesh top and skirt, JONATHAN SIMKHAI | Leather booties, JASON WU


Your Next Elegant Adventure Photographed by MAX PAPENDIECK Styled by GREGORY WEIN


Gold necklace, rings and layered bracelets, AVRIL7 | Liquid silk dress, MATHIEU MIRANO | Ava clutch and faron lambskin heels, JIMMY CHOO


Gold choker, PASQUALE BRUNI | Crepe top, blazer and skirt, OFF-WHITE


Gold necklace with pendant, WALTERS FAITH | Earrings, stylist’s own | Knit top and skirt, JILL STUART | Mindy suede sandals, JIMMY CHOO



114

Gold “h” initial necklace and ametrine earrings, PHOENIX ROZE | Wool belted jacket with silver fox, JASON WU


Diamond earrings and ring, PASQUALE BRUNI | Cut out dress, CUSHNIE ET OCHS | Ava snakeskin clutch and faron metallic heels, JIMMY CHOO


116

Gold “h” initial necklace, earrings, rings and bracelet, PHOENIX ROZE | Cashmere knit dress, BAJA EAST | Gladiator sandals, NOUR JENSEN



Cashmere polo and leather ruffled skirt, ERDEM | Lance sandals, JIMMY CHOO


Cotton dress skirt, wool embroidered floral blazer and overcoat, THOM BROWNE


120

Gold layered necklaces, stacked bangles and rings, AVIRL7 | Alexis top and avalon floral skirt, SACHIN & BABI | Lance sandals, JIMMY CHOO


Model: Hannah Ferguson at IMG Hair Stylist: Anderson Medeiros Makeup Artist: Raoul Otero Manicurist: Rachel Shim Photo assistant Jose Cedendo Stylist’s assistants: Frankie Barone and Victoria Pitton Production: Louis Agency

Special thanks: W Hotel Times Square www.wnewyorktimessquare.com Dimitrios Aletras, Jessica Saraniero, Jonathan Bender, Luiz Mattos, Matt Levine at Indie Fork Kristen Reeve and Timothy Priano at abtp.com


Gold leather dress, red striped polo, cotton poplin shirt, black vinyl skirt with embroidered patches, multicoloured fur stole, plex and crystal earrings, multicoloured leather handbag, yellow printed leather pumps, MIU MIU


The

Edge of

Anarchy Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Alba Melendo


Dress, bag, plex and crystal earrings with fur charm, denim flat shoes, printed muslin socks, MIU MIU


Python lamĂŠ dress, grey and white wool polo, cotton poplin shirt, multicoloured leather boots, plex and crystal earrings, MIU MIU


126

Kid mohair coat with python leather patches, red striped polo, blue and white poplin skirt, cotton muslin shirt, leather shoes, plex and crystal earrings with fur charm, MIU MIU


Yellow printed pumps, multicoloured leather handbag, MIU MIU


Shirt, dress, plex and crystal earrings with fur charm, MIU MIU


Multicoloured denim dress with fur charms and sequin embroidery, black vinyl dress, cotton poplin shirt, plex and crystal earrings, MIU MIU



Denim flat shoes, printed muslin sock, MIU MIU


132


Black wool dress with sequin embroidery and python neck, multicoloured fur stole, plex and crystal earrings with fur charm, gold glitter sandals, MIU MIU


134

Kid mohair blouson with python leather patches, black striped polo, cotton muslin shirt, green vinyl skirt with embroidered patches, denim flat shoes, printed muslin socks, plex and crystal earrings, MIU MIU


Red and blue denim jacket with patch embroidery, python lamé dress, plex and crystal earrings, cotton poplin shirt, grey striped polo, multicoloured leather boots, MIU MIU

Model: Saara Shinoven at Brand Models Hair stylist: Yuji Okuda at Saint Germain Makeup artist: Cyril Laine Stylist’s assistant: Maki Kimura Set designer: Julien O using designs by Vanessa Mitrani, Astéri, Silvera, India Madhavi and Kartell Retoucher: Sebastian Bar Production: Louis Agency


Paradise

Found Photographed by VIKI FORSHEE Styled by SOFIA ODERO


Black and blue embroidered gown with ruffled skirt and rings, GUCCI


Rose coat with fur details, flower brooch and rings, GUCCI


Silk chiffon pink gown, lion head earrings and rings, GUCCI


140

Silk chiffon yellow pleated gown with pearl details and rings, GUCCI



Red Herbarium printed gown and rings, GUCCI


Yellow crepe skirt suit with flower brooch detail and rings, GUCCI


144

Red Herbarium printed sweatshirt, lurex pleated skirt, gold Pebbles shoes and rings, GUCCI



146

Multicolored shiny striped dress, gold Marmont heels, red Arabesque Dionysus and rings, GUCCI


Model: lga Datsenko at Marilyn Agency Photographer’s assistant: Henry Lopez Makeup artist: Craig Honeycutt Hair stylist: Nelson Vercher Stylist’s assistant: Sarah Gentillon Set designer: Chelsea Maruskin Set designer’s assistant: Zachary Maruskin Videography: Anna Campbell Production: Louis Agency


148

T h e i ns p ir ati o n

The Untold

Story Meet the latest expression of Bulgari’s celebrated serpent motif: The Serpenti Forever. A handbag with its own tale to tell.

Bulgari’s Serpenti is renewed by the maison in infinite

else. This treasure is part of the maison’s heritage

forms, like a snake shedding its skin, each one more

collection, included in the recent retrospective, The

intriguing than the last. This time, it’s not a watch,

Art of Bulgari: 130 Years of Italian Masterpieces.

bracelet or curling fired-enamel cuff, but a limited edition

The workmanship and vision conceived in the

Serpenti Forever bag, upon which the exquisite motif

necklace is now translated into the handbag: The

rests. Tradition and innovation collide in this python skin

hand-polished and printed python skin topped with

bag, part of the spring/summer 2016 collection and

a bejewelled enamel snakehead clasp, with eyes of

limited to 68 pieces, as it dances before the eyes in a

lapis lauzuli. This is just the kind of savoir faire Bulgari

floral screen-printed pattern, inspired by a 1968 high

has been delivering for over 130 years, painstakingly

jewellery necklace from the Italian heritage brand itself.

crafting each bag over the course of three months.

Cabochon-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires,

The Serpenti is the most evocative symbol associated

interspersed with brilliant-cut diamonds, are

with the brand, indelibly intertwined with its own

arranged in cascading symmetry in the prized

history and that of its most famous customers, from

necklace, which was worn by Keira Knightley to

Elizabeth Taylor and her iconic film representation of

the Oscars in 2006, the year she was nominated

Cleopatra – as Richard Burton once said, “The only

for Best Actress for Pride and Prejudice. Ten floral

word in Italian Elizabeth knows is Bulgari” – to Diana

clusters bring these unique domed gemstones

Vreeland and her signature Serpenti enamel belt. The

together, their highly polished curved surfaces and

Serpenti Forever might be the latest expression of

absence of faceting reflecting the light like nothing

Bulgari’s vision, but we’re certain it won’t be the last.



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CHLOÉ

Acces s o ry a ffa ir s


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Gone Girl Time is of the essence; the modern woman visits unchartered territory and braves new ventures, exploring the vast landscape around her. Accenting her desire for simplicity with classic treasures in rose gold, washed pearl and gold filigree rings will offer intricate detailing.

1. MARLI | 2. LUCIFER VIR HORNESTUS | 3. HARRY WINSTON | 4. CHOPARD | 5. MYRIAM SOS at S*uce Rocks | 6. ALLISON BRYAN

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ZAID AFFAS

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POWER PLAYER The game isn’t over; cut to razor sharp perfection and streamlined elegance as today’s woman is a risk taker, bold and unafraid. Don black suits with dapper men’s watches or add a hint of colour with jade earrings. There’s a statement piece in her look, but it never overpowers her.

1. GEMFIELDS | 2. CHANEL | 3. HUBLOT | 4. LOUIS VUITTON | 5. BOUCHERON | 6. GEMMA REDUX at Harvey Nichols Dubai

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154

DESIGN INSPIRATION

Image by courtesy of Boucheron

A 17th-century Mughal miniature painting of the Holi festival, from Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, served as inspiration for Boucheron’s creative director, Claire Choisne.


A paisley-shaped ruby and diamond clip, made in 1966, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Getty Images; P. Gries for Van Cleef & Arpels

EXOTIC SPLENDOUR By Sandra Lane

During the 17th and 18th centuries, the Mughal Empire produced one of history’s greatest legacies of artistic craft, jewellery and precious ornaments. Its style has had an immeasurable impact on Western aesthetics – remaining a source of inspiration today.


156

A Mughal turban ornament from the first half of the 18th century, made of gold with white nephrite jade, rubies, emeralds and rock crystal

Claude and Pierre Arpels in the 1950s, during one of their many trips to India

When Claire Choisne, Boucheron’s creative director,

traditions, creating one of history’s greatest legacies of

met the Maharaja of Jodhpur, His Highness Gaj Singh

artistic craft, jewellery and precious ornaments. Mughal

II, three years ago and began working with him on

style has had an immeasurable impact on Western

ideas for a new High Jewellery collection, she was

aesthetics and it remains a source of inspiration

following a well-trodden path.

today – Claire Choisne’s trips to India was just one

Boucheron already had deep historic links with India

manifestation of this.

– and it was not alone: Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels,

As the Mughal Empire declined, the Maharajas, the

Chaumet and Mellerio were among other houses that

provincial rulers to whom Delhi had long delegated

had fallen under India’s spell in the late 19th to early

a lot of power, retained their wealth – and their

20th century, particularly the spell of its Mughal past

penchant for fabulous gems. Towards the end of the

and the wonderful art and jewellery designs produced

19th century, Britain’s growing power in India had

during this Golden Age. The love affair between the

a huge impact on English style and, in 1901, the

jewellers of Paris and the subcontinent goes back even

soon-to-be Queen Alexandra (wife of King Edward

further, to gem-trader Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, who

VII) asked Pierre Cartier to create an Indian-style

travelled to Persia and India between 1630 and 1668,

necklace using rubies, pearls and diamonds that

when the wealth and culture of the Mughal Emperor,

were already in the royal collection. At the same

Shah Jahan, fully matched that of France’s Louis XIV.

time, India’s princes had begun patronising European

Established in 1526 when Babur, a conqueror from

jewellers: The Maharaja of Kapurthala and Maharaja of

Central Asia, overthrew the Lodi dynasty in northern

Lahore were clients of Boucheron by the mid-1890s.

India, the Mughal Empire gave birth to a sophisticated

In 1903, Louis Boucheron took over running his family’s

and progressive civilisation. Art and architecture

business and, in 1909, made his first trip to India to buy

flourished, blending Islamic, Hindu and Persian

stones, especially Kashmiri sapphires – among them

Photos: Archives of Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels; Universal History Archive/UIG/Getty Images

Cartier’s design for a diamond necklace for an Indian client (circa 1930s) combines the client’s own stones with Cartier diamonds, in a Mughal-influenced Art Deco style


a cabochon sapphire. Not previously seen in Western

of India were turning to French and English houses to

jewellery, the cabochon sapphire helped trigger a new

rework their Mughal pieces in the European way; indeed,

style and became an emblem of the house. Also, in

some of the biggest customers that Cartier, Chaumet,

1909, Jacques Cartier took over the London branch of

Van Cleef & Arpels, Mellerio, Mauboussin and Harry

the family firm from his brother Pierre, and was given

Winston enjoyed were Indian royal families. Among

responsibility for all of its Indian business. Making his

them was the Maharaja of Patiala, who – as well as

first trip to India in 1911 to visit potential clients, he was

commissioning Boucheron to transform his staggering

hugely impressed by Indian regalia, the vivid colours of

collection of emeralds and other stones into 150

the stones and cloisonné enamel used in their design,

pieces of Indian-style jewellery – was an enthusiastic

and the Indian style of polishing rather than cutting.

patron of Cartier and other Place Vendôme houses.

He began buying emeralds, rubies and sapphires.

The key point of this Mughal-European mix is that

As the 1920s dawned, the use of coloured stones and

the influences worked both ways. It was not a slavish

Indian influences by these two maisons, among others,

copying of either style; rather, the essence of each

became one of the first great stylistic innovations of the

was extracted – on the one hand, the flamboyant

Art Deco period. Polished and carved stones, tassels,

spirit and colour of Indian jewellery was translated, via

animal-head bangles, paisley shapes – all were an

European techniques and style, into something much

exciting change from the staid and fussy ‘garland’

more airy and light; on the other, refined European

style that had dominated European style for decades.

settings and cosmopolitan tastes added sophistication

In 1924, Cartier created a sautoir using pale blue

and modernity to the more overtly ‘Indian’ pieces.

Kashmiri sapphires and carved emeralds, which Baron

At the end of the 1940s, following Indian independence

Eugène de Rothschild bought for his new bride (it was

and the Partition, several of the Maharajas and their

sold at Sotheby’s New York in April 2015).

wives exiled themselves to Europe, taking some of their

At the Paris exhibition of 1925, Cartier revealed its first

finest jewellery with them. None was more colourful

bracelet to use the Mughal-inspired mixture of carved and cabochon emeralds, rubies and sapphires – a style that became one of the most celebrated jewellery designs of all time and was nicknamed ‘tutti-frutti’. An example made by Cartier New York around 1928 was sold last year by Evelyn Lauder in a charity auction for a record $2.1m, demonstrating the exceptional collectability of these pieces. “With the mixed colours, stones and cuts, and the lightness of the platinum settings, this jewellery really was for Western, not Indian clients,” says Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s Image and Heritage Director. “But, it took a certain kind of woman to wear them – a woman who was not just elegant, but had great taste and audacity.” Among these women was Doris Duke, the heiress to a huge tobacco fortune. On a honeymoon tour of Asia with her husband James Cromwell, she fell in love with the Oriental style and, besides building a large collection of Indian and Southeast Asian jewellery, she chose pieces by Cartier and David Webb that incorporated Eastern gems and motifs. However, her taste for exotic style had developed even before that first trip to India: In 1934 she had bought one of Cartier’s Mughal-inspired bracelets in emeralds, pearls and diamonds, and a matching clip. Probably the most famous of all the ‘tutti-frutti’ pieces is the Collier Hindou necklace, commissioned from Cartier Paris in 1936 by Daisy (Mrs Reginald) Fellowes, heiress to the Singer sewing machine fortune. A spectacular concoction of sapphires, emeralds and rubies – in a mix of cabochons, beads, briolettes and carved stones, mostly from pieces already owned by the client – as well as diamonds, platinum and white gold, it was bought back by Cartier at auction in 1991 for its Historic Collection. Meanwhile, as the great French firms looked towards Mughal India for design inspiration, the great families

A Boucheron design proposal for a necklace for Bhupinder Singh, Maharajah of Patiala, using some of the hoard of gems that he brought to the Maison in 1928

Architectural detail from the Hall of Mirrors, at the 16thcentury Amber Fort in Jaipur


158 than Sita Devi, the Maharani of Baroda, a great beauty whose love of jewels was matched only by her love of parties (and consummate skill as a hostess). Choosing Van Cleef & Arpels as her jeweller, she commissioned

Work in progress on the Jodhpur necklace in Boucheron’s atelier, Bleu de Jodhpur High Jewellery collection, BOUCHERON

about 100 major pieces between 1949 and 1967, as well as buying countless ‘everyday’ pieces from stock. Among the most notable commissions was a wonderful necklace of pear-shaped emerald drops suspended from diamond-set ‘leaves’ – the Mughal influence subtly present in the paisley-shape of the leaves and, of course, the emeralds themselves. A 1954 necklace of cabochon rubies and emeralds with diamonds was unquestionably modern and European, yet the mixed colours and cabochon cuts whispered ‘Mughal’. These dynastic influences continued to appear throughout the 1950s in various guises – for example, in Cartier’s Tiger bracelets, worn by the Duchess of Windsor, and in a variety of peacock-motif jewels from different houses – before becoming a full-blown craze again in the 1960s and ’70s. Riding the wave of Cinecittà and la dolce vita, Bulgari became one of the most sought-after names of those decades. Its instinct for colour, bold handling of gold and use of cabochon stones – often seen all together in show-stopping bib-style necklaces – put a new, original and utterly modern spin on Mughal style. David Webb, the quintessential American jeweller of the 1960s, often used imagery based on his studies of 18th-century jewels from Jaipur, India. For Doris Duke, he made a spectacular ruby and pearl necklace that tempers New York sophistication with a Mughal spirit. At Van Cleef & Arpels, there was a great surge in commissions for Mughal-inspired designs as new clients joined the Maharani of Baroda (perhaps even influenced by her status as a high-society tastemaker). Another influence was Claude Arpels’ marriage in 1970 to Pakistan-born Mherulisa, known as Malou and a woman of great taste, whom he had met when he was in India on one of his many stone-hunting trips – he called them ‘jewel safaris’. “Now, as I look at the Rewa jewels and the Golconda

some of the commissions as they would be so far

diamonds and the Oriental pearls that I brought back

outside the house style.”

from other places, I can feel all the exotic poetry

Today, Mughal style continues to inspire and influence

symbolised by the magnificence of the ‘Thousand

designers in countless ways. In 2004, Jeremy Morris,

and One Nights’ legend and the romance of the Taj

then creative director of David Morris and now its CEO,

Mahal,” Arpels wrote in an article published in The

designed an eternity ring for his wife, Erin, using rose-

Social Spectator magazine. The commission to design

cut diamonds. Why the 18th century cut? “The beauty

the coronation jewels for the Empress of Iran, Farah

is in its many facets, giving it a delicate, romantic and

Pahlavi, exposed the maison to the motifs of Persia – a

almost translucent feel,” he explains. The rose cut has

crucible of Mughal style.

not only become a house signature of David Morris, it

Among the work produced by the Maison during this

has been adopted by many contemporary designers.

period, one of the finest examples is the magnificent

Bulgari, too, is having a very Mughal moment. Three

necklace of carved emeralds, diamonds and yellow

years ago, it developed a smooth new cut, inspired by

gold in 1970 for the Begum Aga Khan.

the aesthetic – the takhti cut has become a focus of the

“Many clients continued to bring their own stones,

Musa collection. (‘Takhti’ is Hindi for tiles, a reference

and often, the designs would be much more opulent

to those on the roofs of palaces in India, which echo

than the usual house style,” says Catherine Cariou,

the half-cylinder shape of the cut.)

Heritage Director at Van Cleef & Arpels. “It was a

Lucia Silvestri, creative director of Bulgari jewellery,

wonderful, extravagant period and I think that if the

explains: “It came about after we attended the wedding

same clients came to us today, we might not accept

of our gem supplier’s daughter, and her mother was


A new interpretation of ‘tutti-frutti’ colour-mixing in carved mandarin garnets, tsavorite garnets and tanzanites with a black opals, from the Étourdissant High Jewellery collection, CARTIER

Earrings in white gold with diamonds, pearls and leaf-shaped carved emeralds, AMRAPALI

Earrings in white gold, diamonds and cabochon emeralds subtly echoing Mughal style, CHOPARD

The Hyderabad headband-cum-necklace from Cartier’s Étourdissant collection, a new example of its celebrated ‘tutti-frutti’ style, CARTIER

A new interpretation of ‘tutti-frutti’ colour-mixing in carved mandarin garnets and amethysts with a white opal, from the Étourdissant High Jewellery collection, CARTIER

wearing a traditional necklace of emerald beads that

silhouettes, plant and flower motifs and Art Deco lines

was breathtaking. We bought it from her and our

into 60-70 unique pieces per year.

supplier cut them, creating a shape that’s similar to

When Cartier unveiled its Étourdissant High Jewellery

the dome-shaped cabochon, but is actually a halved

collection (never was a name more fitting) the influence

hexagon... [because of this cut] the stones are bigger,

was unmistakable: Here were the leaf-shaped carved

clearer and more intense in colour.”

stones, there were the cabochons and everywhere

We see the influences in countless collections and

was colour. But, this was no pastiche – the colour

myriad ways, from De Grisogono’s very bold, Italian-

scheme was completely fresh, mixing oranges,

Mughal mixing of colours and cuts to subtly refined

purples, turquoise and every shade of green.

jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels. There’s a new generation

“There is a ‘style Cartier’, certainly,” says Pierre Rainero.

of Indian jewellers (both inside and outside India)

“We don’t copy ourselves, but, over the years, we have

harnessing their heritage in contemporary ways –

absorbed all of our references, so that they become

from Amrapali (which uses old-cut and flat-cut stones

an almost unconscious vocabulary, like a language. It’s

in bold settings to create jewels on a grand scale) to

more a way of seeing things than a set of references.”

UK-born Sally Agarwal (who has made the polished

The same can certainly be said for Boucheron, where

but uncut polki diamonds a signature). Nirav Modi

Claire Choisne has combined her experiences in

uses melon-cut emeralds and rubies to stunning effect

India and distinct way of seeing things, translating

and has developed his own, modern version of the

them through the filter of the house’s remarkable

Mughal cut to fit the exact design of flower petals, while

patrimony to create the fabulously modern-Mughal

Mumbai-based Viren Bhagat translates architectural

Bleu de Jodhpur collection.


160

J e w ellery & wat ch e s e x t r a ct

aying

it with

Flowers Floral motifs have inspired some of today’s most creative watchmakers to invent new complications that set these beautiful blooms in motion By Laura Collacott

An extract from MOJEH Jewellery and Watches 2016 Edition, published November 2015 and available now.

On CHAUMET’s Hortensia Creative Complication, two delicate flowers rotate around the dial to indicate hours and minutes


In the Lady 8 Flower by JAQUET DROZ an automaton mechanism is incorporated into the movement, enabling the wearer, at the push of a button, to open the lotus flower and reveal the diamond at its heart


A model dressed in flowers at the launch of the RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur

F

lowers have long been an overt symbol of femininity – used as decoration on everything from dress fabrics to tea-cups, jewellery and sofa cushions, and offered to women as the quintessentially feminine gift, whether as single buds or extravagant bunches. Indeed the delicateyet-strong beauty of flowers has become a metaphor for femininity. Floral motifs are nothing new in women’s watch designs. Indeed, feminine wristwatches are nothing new: the first wristwatches were made for women, not men, as they had nowhere in their outfits to keep a pocket watch. But the boom in technically sophisticated watches designed specifically for women – that’s new. This technical sophistication need not mean a sacrifice of femininity, of course,

as is clear from the use of gem-setting, enamelling, miniature painting, engraving and other artistic crafts on the cases and dials of such watches. These timepieces are the thinking woman’s jewellery. Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Florilège in 2013, a triptych of watches with enamel faces inspired by botanical illustrations from Robert Thornton’s 18th-century Temple of Flora book. At Piaget the rose is a long-standing icon (“the most universal flower,” according to Yves Piaget), recently immortalised in a luminous cloisonnéenamelled version of the Altiplano. GirardPerregaux etched a flower motif into the mother-of-pearl face of the technically refined Cat’s Eye Tourbillon. And complexity has been gathering pace. Take Bovet’s Lady Bovet watch, a unique


The RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur features a floral automaton with a flying tourbillon at its heart

piece created for the 2015 Only Watch charitable auction. A Virtuoso II calibre, introduced in 2014 (the first Bovet movement not regulated by a tourbillon) displays hours and minutes on both sides, and so is housed in a reversible and convertible white gold Amadeo case. That has allowed the reverse to be exquisitely decorated with a miniature, enamel-painted scene of two white doves and vibrant flowers. Even so, in these examples flowers have remained a decorative motif, however elaborate. Now women are being offered floral-themed timepieces to match the boys’ watches – which is to say that they are as technically sophisticated as they are beautifully feminine. This year, in several remarkable new timepieces from different houses, flowers have gone beyond the merely ‘pictorial’ and become animated. Christophe Claret was, in fact, first off the mark last year, when he introduced Margot. It features an enamelled daisy motif with a yellow sapphire centre in a mother-ofpearl face, with which to play the childhood game of ‘he loves me, loves me not’ with the press of a button placed at 2 o’clock, which makes petals disappear in ones and twos beneath the face, the answer (of seven romantic possibilities in French) appearing in an aperture. A chime accompanies each

press of the button, the aural mechanism set with a ruby and visible through a tiny window in the case at 8 o’clock. Turn the white or rose gold case over and you’ll see the self-winding movement whirring away beneath a flower-like lattice set with eight precious stones. “When we made the Margot, we were the first to achieve a [completely new] high complication exclusively for women,” says Christophe Claret, the eponymous founder. “It’s an idea that I have wanted for a long time. I had also unsuccessfully offered the idea through the Manufacture to other brands; they felt that the market for this kind of complication was too low. Apart from a few brands that have poetic approaches on small complications for women, such as Van Cleef & Arpels or Breguet, [none is] really interested in realising complications exclusively for women.” The Margot is whimsical, charming and beautifully made – as well as mechanically complex – yet it won as many detractors as fans when it was launched, with selfstyled purists (that is, the purely-technical watch geeks) calling it ‘pointless’. Claret was vindicated with a Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève prize. Since then, other firms have unveiled new women’s complications – all with floral animations. Claret himself introduced the Marguerite

Above and below: CHANEL’s Première Flying Tourbillon features a spinning camellia flower


164

A detail of the Margot by CHRISTOPHE CLARET

Above and below: on the GRAFF Floral Tourbillon the three gem-set flowers rotate in sync with different parts of the movement

this year, a slightly pared down version of the Margot with tiny butterflies marking the hours and minutes, and other houses have begun to release complications with flowers at the heart of their theme. Makers are going to increasing technically lengths to create women’s models that are both highly sophisticated and beautiful. More and more, floral designs are not simply part of the decoration but animated functions of the engineering. Graff launched its 2015 women’s collection with the Floral Tourbillon at its core, the result of 2,500 hours of design and development work, according to a company spokesman. A delicate floral outline is traced over the tourbillon cage between 5 and 6 o’clock on the dial (which is motherof-pearl or pavé diamonds, depending on the design specifications), while a cluster of three flowers – with petals formed by marquise-cut rubies, emeralds, sapphires or diamonds – sit at 8, 9 and 12 o’clock and rotate in line with the beats of different parts of the movement. “An increasing number of women are intrigued by the inner workings of a mechanical watch – with the quality of the materials used also a key consideration,” says Michel Pitteloud, the CEO of Graff Luxury Watches. “The MasterGraff Floral Tourbillon was developed in line with this

increased appreciation [and] it combines technical innovation with the craft and skill of our gem-setting experience.” Richard Mille introduced the Tourbillon Fleur this year, priced at a cool $1.1 million. That money buys you a shapely, diamondencrusted watch with a five-petalled magnolia flower, set among delicate hand-painted leaves, which blooms every five minutes or on demand, at the press of a pusher. As it blooms, a mesmerising flying tourbillon is revealed rising – just a millimetre – when the petals open to mimic a real flower. On the reverse, an exhibition case-back reveals glimpses of the grade-5 titanium movement. “For a long time we have wanted to do a watch with an automaton,” says Tim Malachard, Richard Mille’s Marketing Director. “The tourbillon was a natural choice for us. Following that logic, the next decision was to create an automaton that would hide and conceal the tourbillon – which led us to the idea of a flower, and that is naturally more feminine. The idea of raising and lowering the tourbillon as the flower opened and closed was just one of those ‘how can we push it further’ things that we like to do.” Pushing things further takes time, in this case four years. “It made things vastly more complex and it took Giulio Papi [of the


The Marguerite by CHRISTOPHE CLARET

movement developers APRP] a ridiculous amount of time to find the solution; the hardest part was not only to achieve that tiny and very controlled movement but also to co-ordinate it perfectly with the petals opening and closing,” says Malachard. Of a similar calibre, the Jaquet-Droz Lady 8 Flower has an automatic movement with a butterfly so precious set into the face that it looks almost real, trapped in a glass cloche. Jaquet Droz is no stranger to whimsically avant-garde technology; witness the automata dolls that catapulted the firm to international fame in the 18th century. One version of the Lady 8 Flower features a white gold case, the face set with sapphires on a gleaming diamond background, another a red gold case with diamond-set bezel and butterfly of hand–painted enamel. Above,

floating in a separate orb to complete Jaquet-Droz’s signature figure of eight and powered by a mechanical automat, is a lotus flower that blooms at the press of a button to reveal a diamond at its centre. The trend for women’s mechanical watches in recent years has opened the creative floodgates for high jewellers and artistic watchmakers. A focus on women has almost given makers permission to step away from time-related complications to more lateral, amusing and delicate ones. The result so far, demonstrated by this bouquet of floral complications, has been the harnessing of sophisticated watchmaking simply for beautiful ends, adding a softer touch to high-precision machinery and, in pushing the boundaries, opening the door to all manner of future possibilities.


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Watch, VACHERON CONSTANTIN Heure Romantique Paved 18K white gold case, 104 round-cut diamonds and millegrain finishing. Diamond-set crown, paved 18K white gold dial, 252 round-cut diamonds and 18K gold applied hour-markers. Paved 18K white gold bracelet, with 264 round-cut diamonds and 18K white gold jewellery clasp. Total diamond-setting of 621 round-cuts, for a total weight of approx. 9.7 carats. Jumper, BALENCIAGA


A Timeless Conversation Vacheron Constantin’s new jewellery-watch collection, Heures Créatives, alludes to three symbolic artistic periods: Art Nouveau, Art Deco and the 1970s. Each exquisite model is dedicated to a different type of woman – the romantic, discrete and audacious – but unified by one vision of femininity, elegance and confidence, conversing together with the same expressive vibrancy.

Photographed by Pelle Lannefors Creative Direction by Kelly Baldwin


168

Watch, VACHERON CONSTANTIN Heure Audacieuse Paved 18K white gold case & clasp, 172 baguette-cut diamonds, invisible setting and a total diamondsetting of 172 baguette-cuts, for a total weight of approx. 11.2 carats. Jacket, Emporio Armani


Model: Karolina B at MMG Models Stylist: Olivia Cantillon Photographer’s Assistant: Benjamin Selley Hair and Make-up Artist: Marisol Steward

Watch, Vacheron Constantin Heure Discrète Paved 18K white gold case and folding clasp with 285 round-cut diamonds and a total diamond-setting of 306 round-cuts, for a total weight of approx. 3.6 carats. Shirt, Roksanda Ilincic


170

B e a u ty I ns ig h t

Peter Philips Natural Beauty by

One of the most prominent makeup artists of today, Peter Philips, the Creative and Image Director of Dior Makeup, tells us lessons he learnt and how to keep things au naturel.

During your career you have created iconic beauty looks – can you describe your artistic process in envisioning such looks? It is essential to be different. For a luxury house, it is important to be able to stand out, not only in its creation, but also in its service. You always have to stand out. You always have to be ahead by offering a woman something unique and different. Our goal is to seduce them into wearing my creations. But, when I create looks for the catwalk, I’m part of a team, and together we create looks that complete the vision of the designer. How would you describe our ideal of true beauty today? There is always a different way of interpreting something that you see even executed perfectly. What is perfect in this regard? For one person, it might already be perfect, but for someone else it might not be. However, that is another debate. In makeup, there is an extra element, where it is not only the people who see the makeup and the person who applies it, but also the person who wears it. It is very important that you wear makeup, in a way that it is being seen in the way that you want it to be seen. You therefore have to wear makeup with confidence – for some women, that might be a little bit of makeup, while for others, it might be a lot. Once you wear it with confidence, it will be seen as you would like it to be seen. That is, therefore, an extra dimension, and it is not only the hand that executes it or the eye that conceives it, but also the face that wears it. How should we prepare our face before applying makeup? Before applying makeup, I recommend using a primer such as the Diorskin Forever & Ever Wear. It is colourless and

Spring/summer 16 ready-to-wear, Dior Show backstag

perfectly transparent upon application. It instantly blends with the skintone for a tone-on-tone skin-perfecting result.

You found your calling at the age of 27. How did you know

What’s the best way to apply foundation for a natural look?

this was the right path for you?

I recommend using the Dior Fluid Foundation Sponge. Its

I found out it was the right path for me by doing it. It started

soft-touch, high-density material captures the optimal amount

out as a path I chose to follow, and the more I did it, the more

of fluid foundation and facilitates even distribution of product

I got confirmation that it was the right thing for me. When I

and buildable coverage. It was inspired by the application

first started helping out backstage, when I was a student

techniques we use backstage.

in fashion design, I was intrigued by the whole backstage experience, especially by what happened at the beauty

And how can we find our true skin colour match when

department. I loved to see that models were transformed in

buying our foundation?

to a look that completed the vision of the fashion designer.

I always recommend that women visit a Dior counter to use the Shade Analyser device. The Shade Analyser produces a

What are the greatest tips/lessons in make-up you’ve

diagnosis of the skin tone. The algorithm specifically developed

learned?

by Dior scientists accurately measures the skin colour. Once

As regards the laws of makeup and beauty, my role is to use

the analysis is complete, suggestions are provided based on

my experience, creativity and vision to create products that

the specific needs of the skin.

would seduce women into wearing them. That is my goal. When I create products, it is totally at the service of women

What is – in your eyes – the most important makeup tool

and their beauty. I do not wear makeup myself, but, when I

for women?

create products, it is with respect for what a woman wants or

I think that a real woman has many faces and personalities.

what she might want. That is where I want to push, along with

Each woman is individual and my favourite look is the one that

the teams behind me, which stand for innovation and quality.

she wears with the most confidence. If a woman feels better

That is where I believe that the laws of makeup should be

looking sexy and sultry, that should be her look. If another

pushed further and further, all at the service of every woman’s

woman feels better when she looks natural and nude, that

individual beauty desires.

should be her look. If yet another looks best in a severe,


Natalie Portman photographed by Vincent Lappartient for Christian Dior Parfums. Dior makeup created and styled by Peter Philips.

almost businesswoman-like look, that should be her look.

The style of makeup I create at fashion shows is very

Every woman is individual and should create her own look

different from the makeup I use to launch a new collection.

and, when that is her most confident way of reflecting herself,

For fashion shows, my inspiration comes from the fashion

for me that is my favourite look.

designer himself. With Dior, I listen to the designers’ vision for the collection. My role is to reinforce his vision through

Can you describe the synergy between make-up

the makeup of the models. At the most recent couture

collections and fashion on the runway?

show, I wanted the models to look fresh and natural. We

What I think is very exciting and stimulating at Dior is the fact

tried a lot of different looks because I wanted to ensure

that at its heart there is a quote that always comes back and

that the makeup did not over power the fashion collection.

I think that it explains everything. That is the concept of New

I reviewed the details of every design, and found that it

Look. When Christian Dior created his house, he came out

was dominated by modernity. I took inspiration from the

as a rebellious dreamer and created a whole new look that in

Sixties and Seventies, with no eyeliner or mascara to give

his day was revolutionary. The fact that the two words ‘new

the illusion of big round eyes. I used light foundation on

look’ are the base of everything here is amazingly stimulating,

the face, and a small amount of blush on the cheeks to

because it means that you can actually reinvent Dior over

maintain luminous skin.

and over again. That is what has been happening over the past decades. Without losing the essence of what the house

What was it like working with Natalie Portman? Why

stands for, Dior has been re-invented again and again. That

does she embody the Dior woman?

is truly stimulating.

Working with Natalie Portman is always a pleasure. She has a natural elegance and projects confidence. Because

Can you describe the working relationship between

of these characteristics, I think women can and want to

yourself and the creative director of a brand?

identify with her. She can be all the flowers in a bouquet!


172

M o j eh H ea lth

Ties That Bind, photographed by Julien Vallon, MOJEH Issue 29


Bring In

The Best By Susan Devaney

Of You

As we ring in a New Year, we also always aim to introduce a few healthy changes to our lifestyle. From running a marathon and taking better care of our skin to adopting a diet full of fruit and vegetables, we place hope on doing better. But, why not make this year all about lessons learned, truths gained, and getting back to the basics? As Kate Winslet vows to go au naturel by waving goodbye to Photoshop, we’re following suit by placing emphasis on our natural radiance and beauty for 2016. It’s time to embrace what our mothers gave us.


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A Natural Woman From the heavy use of Photoshop to video editing, what you see isn’t necessarily what you get in today’s beauty industry. But, some female celebrities are fighting back for a more natural representation, and to protect young women. “I know I am chubby, I have big feet, and I have bad hair days.

“I would always want to be telling the truth about who I am to

When I grew up, and even now sometimes, I hardly hear any

that generation, because they’ve got to have strong leaders. It’s

positive reinforcement about body image from any female. I mostly

a hope that other people might follow suit… we’re all responsible

hear negatives,” said Kate Winslet on her Instagram account in

for raising strong young women.” Her hope of others following

August 2015. Above her statement, she posted a photo of her

suit has caught fire. Hollywood’s much-loved actress, Scarlett

looking fresh, happy and makeup free. “Today, I want to put up

Johansson, posted a similar image of her makeup free face across

a zero makeup photo. I know I have wrinkles on my skin, but

social media. “I have seen young girls follow celebrities and try to

today, I want you to see beyond that. I want to embrace the real

be one of them… They try to attain perfection, have the perfect

me and I want you to embrace who you are, the way you are,

body, perfect skin tone,” she said. “They aren’t fully aware of the

and love yourself just the way you are.” It was a powerful and

fact that behind the looks, there are a lot of designers, makeup

thought-provoking message: Let me be myself.

artists, and Photoshop/video editing.”

But Winslet didn’t stop there. In November, she negotiated her

Have the limits been pushed so far that images today are literally

contract with L’Oreal makeup to ensure that none of her images

unbelievable? Winslet and Johansson seem to think so. Like the

in Lancôme advertisements are retouched.

plastic surgery debate, the airbrushing debate never seems to get

“I think [young women] do look to magazines, I think they do look

us anywhere. Stripping the lines from women’s faces has become

to women who have been successful in their chosen careers, and

as common as the cold. But, can we really blame them? With the

they want people to look up to,” she said, defending her choice.

pressure placed on them to constantly look perfect, it comes as

Image courtesy of Getty

Kate Winslet has forbidden the use of Photoshop

Feel Like


Located in the Burj Al Arab the Posh by Feryal Salon soothes your hair back to it’s natural best. Containing ingredients from the Amazon Rainforest, Rahua’s hair treatment avoids all harmful chemicals. From root to tip, the mask nourishes every strand of hair leaving it smooth and soft to the touch.

no surprise that they welcome a little helping hand from the art department. And it’s not just about them. Young women copy, compare and emulate. Winslet knows this only too well, with children of her own and as a woman with a successful career in the film industry that spans decades. She’s seen and heard it all, and she’s had enough. If other actresses said no to airbrushing, our modern perception of beauty would change dramatically. But, it’s a Catch-22: The film, fashion and beauty industries won’t change until older women (if you’re over 30, you’re considered past your prime) are more visible on screen, and women are seen as being ‘beautiful’ without the help of multiple makeup products. Wrinkles are all part and parcel of the ageing process that everyone will experience, but we refuse to face reality when fantasy seems so appealing. This ‘moving back to basics’ mantra from Winslet is in stark

The Naturally Blissful Body Ritual, at the Ritz Carlton Spa in JBR, begins

contrast with this year’s most Googled beauty trend: Contouring.

with a full body exfoliation to remove dead skin. Once complete, the sugar

A trend not born from the catwalk, but rather from reality TV

and spice scrub is showered off and the skin is left feeling replenished

stars like the Kardashians and their obsession with social mediainspired selfies. A craze that beauty companies have captialised

and rejuvenated. A deep tissue massage with aromatic oils brings the treatment to a relaxing close.

on by marketing products, such as bronzers and highlighters, to enhance the structure of your face. Leaving some women barely recognisable. You only have to search #Contouring to discover there’s hardly a woman left on the planet who hasn’t given it a go. World famous makeup artist Bobbi Brown – who has worked with many celebrities and founder of her own successful makeup brand – is a firm believer in achieving a natural look (the main philosophy behind her brand). “When I see contouring on people’s faces, it looks like dirt,” she told the New York Post in a recent interview. “As a beauty expert, I believe in individual beauty, and it’s just not my aesthetic. We don’t need to be contouring like the Kardashians.” She feels so strongly about it that she’s vowed never to create any products aimed at endorsing the fad. “The contouring trend is so wrong because it tells women there’s something wrong with their face,” she said. “There’s beauty in

It’s a facial that brings tired and dull skin back to life. The Brightening Facial

a full face, so I don’t paint in a cheekbone that doesn’t exist …

at the Waldorf Astoria Spa on The Palm is the perfect pampering for skin

we’re not all born with Angelina Jolie lips … and whoever said

that needs a little TLC. Removing dead skin cells, smoothing out wrinkles,

small lips aren’t beautiful? The founder, Denise Rabor, of online beauty magazine Wow Beauty has launched the #ownyourbeauty campaign on social media, encouraging women not to use makeup as a tool to mask their natural beauty. With any luck, this time next year, the hashtag will be trending in line with #eatclean. If we’re ‘eating clean’, why not apply the same thought to what we put on our faces? Winslet and Brown are onto something – women everywhere want to look like the Photoshopped, megaairbrushed and edited photos of celebrities on the front covers of magazines. It’s sending out a damaging sound wave: Perfection is beautiful. “I wish I had the strong brow I was given when I was a teenager… but I can’t paint it in,” said Brown. Rather than wanting what we don’t have, moving back to basics and embracing and enhancing what we do have is a sound resolution for 2016.

it recalls your skin’s natural radiance for that enviable glow.


176

Chloé

Keeping Up Appearances You’ve heard it all before: A new year is about experimenting with a new you. But, instead of making staid resolutions for 2016, we’re taking lessons learnt over the past year with us instead.

More Than Skin Deep “The right sequence of products is key to beautiful healthy skin. When used in the wrong combination, some ingredients will cancel out each other’s benefits. For example, the acid in glycolic or salicylic acid breaks down ingredients like retinol, vitamin C or hydroquinone. Use one ingredient product at a time,” says Dr. Fazeela, a cosmetic dermatologist from the Dermacare Group in Dubai. Follow the mantra of less is more when pampering your skin over the next few months. Only invest in high quality skincare brands like La Prairie or Guerlain.

It’s Time To Eat

Hydration, Hydration, Hydration

“A routine is the most essential foundation for a healthy

“This [Dubai] water is actually not good for your skin. It is

lifestyle. And, you should not make any compromises!

alkaline at pH8 and it has a high salt content (the pH of your

Organise and schedule your eating habits as if they were

skin is 5.5). The best thing to do would be – after you’ve

work or sports routines. Make them a priority in your life

applied water to your face in the morning and evening,

– set times for breakfast, lunch and dinner. After setting

always finish your routine with a spray of cellular water.

fixed times, you will experience an overall well-being, and

So, the water left on your skin is actually good for it,” says

much more energy for your daily endeavours,” says Dubai

Isabelle Benoit, Director of Scientific Innovation for Institut

and Munich-based Metabolism Expert, Caroline Bienert.

Esthederm in Paris.

Make The Hours Count

The Price of Pollution

“If you want to be less amusing, more impulsive, less

“Micro pollutants can pass through the skin’s barrier,” says

empathetic, less able to come up with good solutions to

Lisa Littlehales, Managing Director of the Cavendish Clinic

complex problems. If you want to be less healthy, then

in London. “Studies are now proving that the cumulative

fine, don’t sleep. But don’t think you can get away with not

effects of pollutants trigger free radical damage and cause

sleeping and squeezing more and more into the day without

extrinsic premature ageing.” Take the time this year to

consequences – there will be,” says Russell Foster, Professor

source skincare products that help to reduce the effects of

of Circadian Neuroscience at the University of Oxford.

pollutants, such as Clarins’ New UV Plus Anti-Pollution range.


Think You Know the Paleo Diet? Taking culinary cues from prehistoric times, the Paleo diet is having its moment… trend. A new study carried out by the University College of London has cast doubts over the diet’s foundations. Professor Mark Thomas has concluded that carbohydrates should be ‘put back’ in the Paleo diet, because it is highly likely that they, and meat, allowed for us to become the most dominant species on the planet. Around 1.8 million years ago, the human digestive tract shrunk, which archaeologists suggest as an explanation as to why we now eat cooked meat. At the same time, human brains began to increase. “Plant carbohydrates and meat were both necessary and complementary dietary components in human evolution… Concentrated starch from plant foods was essential to meet the substantially increased, enlarged brain. Consumption of increased amounts of starch may have provided a substantial evolutionary advantage to midto-late Pleistocene humans,” he told the UK’s Telegraph newspaper. Another grievance with the diet is that the ability to be able to actually source food that is free of chemicals and pesticides, and to ensure that you’re consuming grass-fed meat, is no easy feat. In 2014, actress Jennifer Lawrence called out carb-free diets as ‘the new, cool eating disorder’ during her interview with Vanity Fair. From Jack Osbourne and Matthew McConaughey to Jessica Biel, celebrities have gone back to their ancestor’s roots and tried the Paleo diet for themselves. But, what is a balanced

Photographed by Kent Lacin LLC, Corbis

diet these days? Gwyneth Paltrow believes It’s a diet with many monikers: Stone Age,

of hunter-gatherer way. At the start of a New

gluten-free is the way to go, whereas superstar

Caveman, Primal, and the list goes on. If

Year, cutting down on culinary calorific treats is

Beyonce has been a trailblazer for going vegan,

you’ve not tried it by now (because you’re still

usually at the top of people’s priority lists – so,

championing the method over the past year.

hooked on to the über successful 5:2 diet), then

courgette spaghetti anyone?

Today, doctors encourage their patients, who

chances are you have a friend who has. But,

In 2013, the Paleo diet gained the most Google

are at great risk of a heart attack and stroke,

what does it entail? Like most diets it, first and

searches in comparison to any other, and it’s

to follow a Mediterranean diet full of olive oil,

foremost, praises the process of elimination.

still being followed today by thousands of

butter, fruit, vegetables, carbohydrates and

No refined sugar, no processed foods, no dairy,

people striving for better health, boasting a

meat. In all fairness, low-carb diets have been

no grains or starch, and don’t even think about

plethora of benefits, including weight loss,

proven to reduce people’s weight. However,

gulping down legumes, like lentils or beans.

disease prevention and improved health. But,

despite the hype, there’s no evidence to prove

In short – nothing invented during the modern

is it another way to objectively remove the

that this diet lowers mortality or the risk of heart

day. According to Sarah Ballantyne, author

dreaded carb from our diet? Same diet, different

disease and cancer. Getting back to the basics

of The Paleo Approach, a Paleo diet consists

name? In the UK, bread and pasta sales are

may be for some, but not for all.

of ‘meats, fish, eggs, vegetables, fruits, nuts

down by 8.9 and 4.2 per cent, respectively,

Maybe success just lies in adopting a new,

and seeds’. Think: Foraging for food, in a kind

which analysts have attributed to the no-carb

healthier diet and being able to stick to it.


178

When it comes to starting a new year, it’s the littlest things that make the biggest differences. From running a marathon to adopting a healthier eating regime, small steps along the way help us to achieve those goals for the year ahead. That’s why we’ve picked out the newest health alternatives on the market in 2016 for you.

Trust your instinct: eat wise. Made from organic and seasonal ingredients, all sourced locally and ethically, Wild & The Moon is striving for better bodies, a better planet. From one, three, five or seven days, their Cleanse Program comprises of 4 cold-pressed juices daily, a detox delivered directly to your door. We think they’re on to a good thing.

A Year of Clean Living


It promises to boost a whole host of things, from sluggish circulation and fluid retention to cellulite reduction - and take a few inches off your waist. The Shrinking Violet Treatment at the Anantara Spa on The Palm is certainly a unique experience as your body is exfoliated, soothed with oil and then wrapped tightly, for a new you.

GuavaPass is like joining a new group of

From Kim Kardashian and Sandra Bullock

friends – everyone has the same interests

to Amanda Seyfried, Hollywood’s A-list

and the same goals. From CrossFit and

can’t get enough. Due to arrive on our

cycling to Pilates, a membership enables

sandy shores in 2016, Barry’s Bootcamp

you to pick from a wide range of classes –

will provide that exercise class that’s

it’s ideal if you quickly become tired of the

guaranteed to get your heart racing, but

same workout regime, and it’s one step

more importantly leave you feeling great

closer to a healthier lifestyle.

about yourself.


180

Botanical Beauties From Dr. Jackson’s face oil to Rahua’s voluminous shampoo, the case for going au naturel has never been stronger. As a rising wave of women turn to organic products, questioning the components of your beauty buys has never been more apt. Turn to some of the best botanical options that fuse smart packaging with safe ingredients. No chemicals included.

Left to right: DIPTYQUE, scented candle | DR. JACKSON’S, Face Oil | RAHUA, Voluminous Shampoo | TATA HARPER, Nourishing Oil Cleanser | HERBLINE ESSENTIALS, AHA Cream | CAUDALIE, Overnight Detox Oil


In Search of Standing Still Deep within the majestic landscapes of Madagascar lies an ingredient with the ability to regenerate and repair skin molecules. The secret is vanilla, and Chanel’s Sublimage is the gatekeeper.

heart of its pods. In 2011, it revealed the benefits of its antioxidant floral heterosides. And now, in 2016, the splendours of Madagascar strive one step further for us, with the booster technology found in the éphémères de planifolia – in short, improved functions and prolonged life spans. The process, you see, is a rather complicated one. In Ambanja of Madagascar, women known as ‘marieuses’ from nearby villages watch and tend to 3,500 vanilla creepers in open-sky laboratories, nurturing, nourishing and caring for them like their treasures. The vanilla flowers open from October to December, at which point the marieuses must fertilize the flowers the very

In the ongoing battle to both look and feel our best, one element feeling

next morning. In the life cycle of vanilla, there’s one precious moment in

the pressure is our skin, with everything from ageing to the harmful effects

April, when its fruits generate miracle-like molecules, endowed with extreme

of pollution taking their toll. Cells become damaged, skin loses its radiance

regenerating powers. But, as quickly as they emerge, they are gone again.

and durability is weakened. But, what if we told you that the remedy could

Like everything in life, time is of the essence and the women must capture

be found in one tiny pod – a vanilla pod, to be more specific? The skin

the pod at the precise moment, delicately detach it, and then send it to

experts at Chanel, along with the millions of women, who have enjoyed the

France, where only viable enzymes are melded into the delicate formula.

effects of Sublimage – a line whose main ingredient is Vanilla planifolia – for

Placed within a translucent glass jar and smelling of sweet vanilla, the final

the past 10 years, are testament to the idea that true beauty is found in the

stop for the planifolia is in our hands and offered in three different textures

earth. After over a decade of scientific, sensorial and human adventure,

– the fresh and evanescent La Crème Texture Fine, the slightly denser but

Chanel found the most effective vanilla to be in Madagascar. “Amongst the

just as comfortable La Crème and the La Crème Supreme, which is richer,

117 varieties of vanilla known throughout the world, the Vanilla planifolia

velvety and built for tougher skin. Sublimage, no matter what form, is built

species from Madagascar proved to be the most fascinating, the most

to melt into the skin, offering ease and protection. Faithful to its vision of

generous,” they told us. Sublimage, a silky soft but deeply concentrated

beauty, Chanel experts have studied both the biological and emotional

cream, is a product of this discovery. Rich in its Vanilla planifolia, the

needs of women for years, in order to come up with a protective line that

cream works by encouraging cellular affinity, strengthening barriers and

tackles skin degeneration, stimulates collagen, redefines and revitalizes.

redefining contours. In 2006, when the Sublimage line was first launched,

There we have it: A lengthy and prolific adventure to the depths of Madagascar,

vanilla offered its exceptionally regenerating ployketones, hidden at the

all in the quest for our skin to stand still in time. Mother Nature wins again.


182

T h e D is c o v ery

Over 10 years ago, the botanical experts at Chanel discovered one precious ingredient in Madagascar: Vanilla planifolia. Sublimage, a smooth, velvety cream that would stop skin degeneration in its tracks, was dedicated to the planifolia’s purity.

The potential of key molecules found in vanilla are exceptional

After several more years of research, including the daily

– they stimulate collagen, strengthen barriers and help prevent

observation of vanilla, the ephemeral molecules – endowed with

pigmentation. Active ingredients boast unique regenerating

extreme regenerating capabilities – were finally discovered. Like

powers, protective and antioxidant qualities.

precious diamonds or stones, they’re near impossible to capture, but once found, harvest infinite power.


The ingredient is rare, invisible to the untrained eye and only

After expert care at special labs, the Sublimage products are

offered by Mother Nature in the early hours of April mornings.

created, ready to wrap the face and décolletage like a sliver of

‘Marieuses’, specially trained Madagascan women, care for

silk, seeping deep within pores. Light and breathable, the chosen

their vanilla crops unconditionally and know the exact window

formula gives the skin a second wind, redefines wrinkles and

of opportunity in which to delicately detach the pod.

lines, and leaves it feeling firmer and more resilient.

In 2016, Sublimage enjoys a reimagining, as the new éphémères de planifolia technology offers women an even more exquisite resolution to skin concerns. In all its forms, from the three La Crème solutions and the essence to the dedicated eye formula, the power of Madagascar’s vanilla is yet to falter.


184

Wo m a n I n S o c ie t y

No Limits Raha Moharrak is an adventurer and sportswoman, who has broken down boundaries in more ways than one. We meet with the inspirational climber to find out what drives her, why she was determined to scale Everest and what’s next.

curiosity and an appetite for seizing life with both hands, Moharrak’s parents might have predicted a sense of adventure would pervade their daughter’s life. Of course, from the vantage point of a conservative Saudi culture, that didn’t stop them from having reservations. “In the beginning, my father was completely freaking out, to say the least. He said I was crazy: ‘Why do you want to do this to yourself?’” she recalls. “But my parents saw my pure and utter dedication to climbing. Training every day, the way I ate, the way I missed weddings, the way I was in pain; I was really pushing myself. They saw that determination and that’s what made them change their minds. They saw that I was serious about this.” Moharrak, a beacon of hope for generations of girls harbouring sporting aspirations, is now in a position to offer some wise advice. And, surprisingly, the

By Natalie Trevis

message is not one of rebellion. “I always say that your parents are the key keepers of your dreams – start by telling them what your dreams

Tossing back her thick mane of dark curls,

Saudi woman, who stood on top of the world –

are. We come from a culture that does not

Moharrak recalls the deluge of messages that

they can’t deny me that. The fact that they are

allow you to progress in life unless you have

bombarded her phone for days and nights after

giving me negative feedback shows that they

the backing of your family. It is the reality. Don’t

conquering the heights of Mount Everest in

are thinking about me, which is a compliment.

fight it. Find a way around it. My advice is to

2013 as the first Saudi woman and youngest

It’s sad that people can’t see beyond the limits

be persistent, be smarter.”

Arab to do so. Those messages represented

they put on themselves: ‘She’s a Saudi woman

While Moharrak could not promise her parents

the transformation of her incredible personal

on her own, not doing what’s expected of her.’

she would return from Everest - that was in the

feat into an act of empowerment, much bigger

I climbed Everest! Forget that I was on my own.

hands of fate, with avalanches, storms and

than her alone. “I’m a very private person and

Forget that I’m a Saudi woman. I’m a person

treacherous terrain to navigate (we met Raha

didn’t intend to become this public figure,”

who climbed Mount Everest.”

in the week that the chilling Baltasar Kormákur-

she says, “but it’s such an honour to have this

Climbing 14 mountains in two-and-a-half years,

directed disaster movie, Everest, was released)

chance to change what I always hated about

eight before the Everest summit, Moharrak was

– she vowed she would not push herself beyond

our society. There is this stigma with women

always focused on her goal, always seeking a

her limits. Her father guaranteed her a second

and sports and I have the chance to change it

life less ordinary. “I was very sporty as a child,

chance at the summit if unsuccessful, to ensure

slightly.” Summit success focused a spotlight

to say the least,” she reflects. “According to

she kept her word. “I told myself, climb it, take

upon Moharrak in a way she simply couldn’t

my dad, I have no fear switch, which is not

one day at a time. Do not take a single step

control, but she has learnt to brush off the

true. I’m like any person: I have my fears, but

forward if you can’t guarantee one back. Did I

negativity that inevitably accompanies the

what makes me different to most people is

ever want to give up? No. There were days when

plaudits. Her philosophical attitude comes from

that fear challenges me. When I am afraid

I woke up thinking, ‘What am I doing here? I’m

the knowledge that she is a Saudi woman doing

of something I want to do it. I want to push

tired, I’m stinky, I’m hungry.’ But, every single

what some men can only dream of. “These

myself. It doesn’t mean that I am not afraid.

time I felt a little bit down, I reminded myself

people that don’t like me know that there is a

But I still do it anyway.” With an insatiable

that I’m climbing this mountain. How lucky am


Raha wears a Max Mara jumpsuit, Jimmy Choo shoes, Ca&Lou Lola earrings from Symphony, all other jewellery her own.


186 Raha Moharrak at home in Dubai, photographed by Michelle, The Factory Me. Raha wears a Commes Des Garçons top and Ca&Lou Lola earrings from Symphony.

a bit arrogant: I can climb Everest, I can ride a bicycle! Wrong. I spent less than an hour on an actual bike before I travelled to Iowa and rode 500 miles.” In a display of perseverance that rivals any mountain climb, Moharrak completed the ride in spite of crippling saddle soreness. “I was so honoured to be there with people

I was looking around not believing I was up there. It was absolutely surreal. I stood there, planted the flag, said a little thank you prayer and ran down.

like me who go against the grain, who break the mould. We had shirts and everyone was stopping us and talking to us. We were a group of Saudi, Pakistani, Iranian, Afghani, Jordanian and Egyptian women, all elite athletes riding for the rights of women in sports. That’s beautiful and I am very proud of it.”

I? How am I sitting here complaining about

trapped at altitude for a week by an avalanche

Moharrak will always be the girl that found a

being a little bit stinky, hungry and cold, when

(“I haven’t been up at high altitude since, but I’ll

way to live her dream, the girl who climbed

there are women who don’t even get a chance

never say never”), Moharrak’s mountaineering

Everest with passion, conviction and belief.

to leave their houses or to ride a bike or to do

is currently on hold. The interlude has allowed

She plans to tell her story in a memoir of her

something as simple as following their dreams?”

her to focus on other escapades with her

journey so far. “My father told me something.

And, it was that very attitude that took Moharrak

inimitable enthusiasm, including a madcap

He said, ‘Raha, you have to write this book.

to the top. “I was looking around not believing I

cycling adventure in The Register’s Annual

It’s not for you. You changed my mind, you

was up there. It was absolutely surreal. I stood

Great Bicycle Ride Across Iowa, with a group

made me your biggest supporter, maybe it

there, planted the flag, said a little thank you

of female Muslim athletes, Team Shirzanan

will change another father’s mind.’ It’s not just

prayer and ran down. I did not want to stay

(which translates as ‘heroines’). With the aim of

about climbing a mountain,” she emphasises,

longer than I should, because in my mind I

promoting women in sports, the cause struck a

“maybe it’s about choosing who you want to

was thinking that most people, who die on

chord with Moharrak: The only problem being

marry.” After the physical and emotional fallout

Everest, die on the way down. It was never an

that she had never ridden a bike. “Up until

of adventures, both on and off the world’s

ego thing for me. Never. It was a very personal

recently, Saudi didn’t allow women to ride

highest and deadliest peaks, the challenges, the

belief and aspiration that led me to do it.”

bicycles. So, when Mara Gubuan [co-founder

opposition and the ultimate summit, for Raha

After a near deadly experience on Mount

of Shirzanan Global Edition] asked me to take

Moharrak, perhaps opening a future father’s

McKinley in Alaska last year, where she was

part in this great project, I couldn’t say no. I was

mind will be the real legacy of climbing Everest.


A Meeting of Forms In recent years, Istanbul’s art scene has been getting a lot of attention, with auctions for Turkish art pieces blending contemporary Turkey and its Ottoman roots hitting the one million dollar mark. We explored the state of things today by visiting the city’s decade-old art fair, Contemporary Istanbul, as well as important art institutions contributing to this ever-expanding art scene.

By Jareh Das

Istanbul, when described by its local Istanbulites, is ‘a vibrant but eclectic city’, with culture (art, music and fashion) featuring prominently on its agenda. A city that continues to captivate its visitors and locals alike, it historically represents the meeting point of both Eastern and Western cultures. I had the opportunity to spend spent six captivating days immersed in this thriving art scene on the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the Contemporary Istanbul art fair, which, with its robust VIP programme, included visits to the main exhibition of The 14th Istanbul Biennial at Istanbul Modern, alongside important private collections – Elgiz Contemporary Art Museum and The Barut Collection. Bordering the city’s fashionable Nisantasi neighbourhood, Contemporary Istanbul (CI) is held annually at the Istanbul Congress Tenter (ICC) and Istanbul Convention and Exhibition Centre (ICEC). This year saw an even more expansive inclusion of Turkish, MENA and international galleries from 24 countries, including a specially curated section, Plugin, showcasing new media artworks. Plugin’s theme, X-Change, is aimed at “creating interactive and transformative relationships between the conventional and innovative, the physical and digital, by rethinking alternative ways of change and developing a sharing culture of science, art and technology”. The fair’s special focus, Contemporary Tehran, put the city’s art scene in a central spotlight, forging what CI’s chairman, Ali Güreli, described as “the fair’s remit for continuing an identity that not only focuses on its native Turkey, but one that is in continuous dialogue with its neighbours, such as Iran, made evident at the current edition and through its dialogue programme of talks, events and publications that occur throughout the year”. In choosing as its theme ‘Istanbul is Contemporary’, the fair situates the city, its visual arts and influences, within the present, at a time when the country and wider region faces social and political challenges, which Güreli feels that in staging this fair, contributes to promoting “a positive image of the region through its art”. In light of the art fair’s wider collaborative initiatives within the region, Iranian galleries inducing Assar Art Gallery, Aaran Art Gallery, Shirin Gallery, Lajervadi Foundation, The Mobarqa Antonio Colombo Arte Contemporanea - Zio Ziegler, The Association Matrix, oil, acrylic, mixed media on canvas, 243 x 182 cm


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T h e J o u r n ey

Gili Avissar

Collection and Dastan’s Basement all showcased emerging

Parasite, with their fantastic installation Leviathan, 2015, by

and establish Iranian artists, some of whom were unknown

performance artist, Gili Avissar, whose other-worldly installation

to the audience here. Dastan’s Basement in particular stood

imagines the artist as Diana Ross – all made strong impressions

out for its thorough curation of exceptional papier-mâché

at the fair, but it was refreshing to see a younger generation

sculptures by Horma Mortazavi from his My Sister Your

of Turkish art spaces and art collectives making their mark

Existence Is My Issue series, 2010-2015, which gave off the

as well. Notably, a newly opened artist-run space in Karaköy

appearance of wooden sculptures from an earlier time. These

– Space Debris Art and the artist collective Signs of Time,

resembled masterly carved objects, demonstrating the skill

which opened in 2012 and is spearheaded by the artist Huo

and astute attention to detail that Mortazavi incorporates into

Rf. Huo Rf’s work on their booth, 15 Liras, 2015, served as a

making works, further blurring the lines between perception

poignant reminder of the ongoing conflict in Syria and the price

and materiality of an artwork. Nassa Bakshi, a self-taught

paid by refugees crossing the Turkish-Syrian border. Huo Rf

artist, presented Devoid of All Desires, 2015, at Aaran

describes the work as one that is “telling the story of a Syrian

Gallery’s ambitious and experimental booth. Here, curious but

family he encountered, who desperately tried to return to their

exceptionally detailed assemblages comprising found luggage

homeland through illegal means”. These individuals asked

boxes saw the artist paint and draw onto and inside these

him for 15 Turkish Liras, the fee needed to cross the border

surfaces, and by depicting individual and collective memories,

and his artwork draws comparisons on how that amount of

making them both symbolic of the scenes represented, and

money might be spent on a daily basis by Turkish citizens.

further, commenting on notions of the passage of time and

This plight of refugees is depicted by drawing out a possible

movement of people.

journey on actual currency, framed by reflective coppersheeting

Prominent local galleries, including Pi Artworks, Rampa and

that draws viewers into conversation with the work.

Gallerist, international galleries – Lazarides, König Galerie and

Space Debris Art, on the other hand, is a gallery originally


Nil Yalter, Pink New York

founded in New York by artist Seyhan Musaoglu. Since relocating back to Karaköy, this artist-led initiative has been promoting experimental and multi-disciplinary practices. The name “Space Debris” draws an analogy from the scientific term used to describe how debris in outer space functions like a runway chain reaction. In this ethos, this art space promotes new forms of interactive creation through exhibitions, happenings and events. An incorporation of a solo artists’ booth presentation at the fair was realised by Antonio Colombo Arte Contemporanea (Milan), Il Chiostro Arte Contemporanea (Saronno), Ali Akbar Sadeghi, Animal Hunt From the Unwritten series, 2010, Ink, acrylic, gold and silver leaf on cavas, 126 x 237 cm, Shirin Gallery, Tehran Section, Contemporary Istanbul 2015, © Mehmet Öztürkler

Karavali Contemporary (London), Nasui Collection and Gallery (Bucharest) and Propaganda (Warsaw), adding a considered approach to focusing on works by individual artists. Propaganda’s display of the intricately detailed project, Vinylowiec by Adam Jastrzebski, was an eyecatching reference to the artist’s interpretation of the changes occurring in the body’s morphology. Outside of the art fair circuit, Istanbul’s art institutions offered a contextual framework as to how private institutions support and promote local and global art initiatives. Established in 2004 as Turkey’s first private museum for the display of modern and contemporary, Istanbul Modern is a staggering 8,000 square metre converted factory, with spectacular views of the Bosporus. This venue, located on the shores of the strait of waters connecting the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara, acted as the central venue for the 14th Istanbul Biennial, curated by Carolyn Christov-Bakargiev. Christov-Bakargiev’s biennial theme, ‘Saltwater: A Theory of Thought Forms’, considers the Bosporus as a symbol and explores the ways in which symbols inform the notion of thought forms. In this light, she considered what this thought form might represent here, i.e. the meeting of Europe and Asia, North and South, and the aftermaths of the Ottoman Empire, all of which are represented and


190

Houman Mortazavi - Untitled from My Sister Your Existence Is My Issue series

remembered through these waters that surround the city. The exhibition featured works of around 60 visual artists, oceanographers, and neuroscientists, all of whom explored the relationship between the visible and the invisible world represented in the development of X-rays, photography, the negative of the photograph, and the ghostly in what the curator describes as ‘the imaginal’, i.e. the space of embodied forms that are all around us, but we don’t usually see unless we are in a deep state of trance or meditation. Highlights from this main biennial exhibition included a large-scale rarely seen painting, Projeto de buraco para jogar politicos desonestos (Project hole to throw dishonest politicians in), 2011, by Brazilian artist Cido Meireles, a stunning two-part with 3 cm in between with the 3 cm acting as a separation between the world of bureaucracy and earth’s forces. The work’s political message evident in its title. Lebanese artist Etel Adanan’s presented an accordion book, Family Memoirs on the End of the Ottoman Empire, 2015, which saw a performer sat at a desk whilst flipping carefully through pages of this text and picture book. Adan’s work here addresses Armenian-Turkish relations and history, through her family memories in a powerful and unique manner. This poignant book touches on both social and political issues from a personal level by revealing universal perspectives and truths. Other standout pieces from the biennial included Red/Red, 2015, by Asli Çavusoglu, consisting of Armenian and Turkish red on worn-out papers and handmade notebooks, a series of delicate bark drawings, Saltwater Yirrkala bark paintings, 1998, by Aboriginal artist Gawirrin Gumana, and an intricately assembled 13-metre-long table, The Prophets, 2013, by Richard Ibghy and Marilou Lemmens, displaying makeshift graphs, diagrams and models, presenting the duo’s longstanding interest in economy, narrative and labour. The financial district of the city, Maslak, is home to two

Elgiz Museum Permanent Collection [from L to R] Julian Schnabel, Gilbert & George Luis Vidal, Frank Nitsche, Photo taken by Kayhan Kaygusuz


Azade Köker [foreground] Entkettet [background] [L to R] The Walk, Orthopaedische Zustaende, Bodrum Rubbish 2, Crescendo in the City, Photo taken by Kayhan Kaygusuz

varied private collections, The Barut Collection and The

sculptors and ambitious land-art projects, further contributing

Elgiz Museum, both of which are spearheaded by prominent

to showing and supporting works by Turkish artists. Overall,

Turkish collecting family dynasties. Both the Elgiz and Barut

Istanbul’s arts organisations and art fairs are predominately

collections are driven by the personal tastes of their founders,

private funded, promote and support indigenous artists to

focusing on collecting works by Turkish, Middle Eastern and

create much-needed development and security, especially for

international artists. Whilst Barut presented some interesting

emerging and younger artists, which allows for career longevity.

works adorning all floors of their headquarters, including

Istanbul’s contribution to the arts is staggering. From

Ahmed Mater, Gulay Semercioglu, Shirin Neshat, Selma

traditionally woven carpets to glassmaking, jewellery to

Gürbüz and Alex Katz, the collection is not currently open

modern and contemporary art and lest we forget, literature

for public viewing. The Elgiz Museum, on the other hand,

and music, it is no wonder that all of the aforementioned art

presented a more personal approach to collecting, driven

events and organisations bring both local and international art

by the taste of the Sevda and Can Elgiz, who alongside their

visitors in their throes. Its importance reinforced by its strategic

daughters, Ayda and Canda, purchase works that resonates

geographical positioning that sees it share its borders with the

with them and is often informed by friendships and personal

Mediterranean, Middle East, Eastern Europe and Caucasus,

encounters with the artworks that enter into this family

whilst continuing to serve as an important trade and tourist

collection. The Elgiz Museum, founded in 2001 as the first

destination. At the present moment in time, as it faces up to

privately funded, non-profit institution in Turkey, presents a

its challenges due to ongoing conflicts, both within and with

dynamic programme of its rotating permanent collection,

its neighbouring countries, art continues to provide glimmers

temporary exhibitions (at the time of my visit, Azade Köker),

of hope for a future where old meets new, and east and west

and an educational programme. Its somewhat hidden open-air

converge. The city will undoubtedly flourish as an artistic

sculpture terrace provides a seasonal exhibition platform for

epicentre, where different cultures meet and exchange dialogue.


192 Shape your city-escape around this colourful destination, with MOJEH’s guide to Istanbul.

Activity spot: Princes Island Journey to these idyllic islands floating off the Sea of Marmara, unspoilt by traffic. Here, you can escape the bustling pace of the mainland and enjoy the scenic beauty of ornate Ottoman houses amid lush vegetation.

Shopping spot: For something familiar, head to the world’s biggest covered market, offering jewellery, hand-painted ceramics, carpets, embroideries, spices and antiques. But, if modernity is on your agenda, then visit Atelier 55, housing a wide range of international and

Creative thinking: SALT Beyoglu

Dine at: Delicatessen

Immerse yourself in a cultural journey into the realm of creativity. Hosting

Its high repute in the arts scene has made this culinary hotspot a must-try

innovative programmes for research and experimental thinking, the institution

destination. Sample its ‘back to basics’ inspired menu and take home your

aims to provoke one’s thoughts and provide a platform for debate.

favourite ingredients from your meal, with a host of products available to purchase.

Photos courtesy of Corbis

locally found luxury brands.


Where to stay: Çıragan Palace Kempinski

Must try: Turkish coffee

Resting on the peaceful shores of the Bosphorus, the former sultan’s palace

You haven’t immersed yourself in true Turkish culture without having tried a

provides a lavish retreat, presenting spectacular views of the Blue Mosque

traditional Turkish coffee. Sit with the locals in the area of Kutucular Caddesi

and close proximity to the Topkapi Palace.

and enjoy a custom that has existed for more then half a millennium.

Where to relax: The House Hotel Bosphorus Reside in this five-storeyed, 19th century Ottoman mansion, located in the vibrant, cobblestoned enclave of Ortaköy. Situated in a social hub at the foot of the Bosphorus Bridge, it is surrounded by popular cafés and clubs.

Fresh perspectives: The Elgiz Museum Explore the first contemporary art museum to open its doors in Turkey. The space functions as an experimental platform for artists, allowing them to display dynamic artwork, exhibitions and educational programmes.


194

MCQ

Istanbul is a city that evokes spirited journeys and culture fuelled discoveries. Look towards the cruise collections to ensure that you’re wardrobeready.

Max Mara

Fendi

Street style

Turkey’s colourful, hand-painted ceramics inspire. Explore Fendi’s Mondrian pattern fur for warm vibrant hues, adding a burst of energy into your cultural escape.


Bottega Veneta opts for bold colour-blocking for an artsy feel, whilst Marni adopts an edgier fashion-forward style of a crop

Bottega Veneta

and blazer – perfect for the eccentric traveller.

Street style

Marni

Michael Kors


196

S t yl e I ns ider

At home with

MOJEH meets one of the Middle East’s most stylish influencers to discuss everything from fashion and beauty to interiors.

Feminine and classic, but with a defiant edge. What is most important to you when it comes to dressing? What inspires me the most is feeling great in my own skin, be it with a formal or casual look. When do you remember coming into your own in terms of style? I was 16 when I first discovered I had an interest in fashion and I’ve been experimenting with it ever since. I believe fashion keeps evolving and is a reflection of the age we are in. Since becoming a mother, how has your style evolved? Comfort is definitely key! With a baby daughter, my day tends to be much more hectic, so it is important for me to be as relaxed as possible in what I wear. Who are your go-to brands? I have a long list, but Cameo, Reformation, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, and Maurie & Eve are my favourites at the moment. What are your favourite trends for the season? Oversized, loose-cut trousers and bellbottoms. I also love long, over-the-knee tops paired with jeans. Where is your favourite city to shop? I loved shopping in Bangkok when I visited! I discovered several concept stores,which had such a unique take on fashion. How does travel influence your style? Every city I visit definitely influences me in different ways. I like to observe people wherever I go, take note of how they dress and take bits and pieces to adapt into my own style. Looking ahead to 2016, what are your favourite collections? Ellery, Paper London, Natasha Zinko, Johanna Ortiz, and Rosie Assoulin.

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, Styled by Dana Hourani

Dana Hourani

How would you define your personal style?


What is your most prized fashion possession?

Your favourite interiors shop?

My new season Chloé Hudson bag.

Luz De Luna.

What’s next on your wish list?

Which books are on your coffee table?

A crepe blazer from Bouguessa – a French-

I have lots of fashion books from brands such as

Algerian designer in the region.

Kenzo, Opening Ceremony and Valentino.

Where’s your favourite place to shop for

What is your daily beauty regime?

your daughter?

I can’t live without ProActiv facewash, toner,

Jacadi and Mamas & Papas.

and moisturizer.

What were your inspirations when decorating

Your beauty essentials?

your home?

Hand cream and L’Occitane’s almond after-

Living in Dubai sometimes makes you miss that

shower body oil.

feeling of comfort and warmth that you have at home, which for me is Lebanon. The most important

What’s on your to-do list for 2016?

factor when decorating was keeping it cosy.

Visiting one of the many cities on my bucket list!

Dana wears a poncho by Chloé and jeans by Zara


Sweet 198

f i n a l n ote

Flourish

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi

Feminine, flamboyant and smelling of roses, team your petals with prints for botanical bliss. Flourishing across everything from Gucci’s cruise collection to Dolce & Gabbana’s jewels, look to base tones of emerald green.

Left to right: DOLCE & GABBANA at Harvey Nichols Dubai | GUCCI | RUPERT SANDERSON at Level Shoe District


Photographed by Marco Cella

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