ISSUE 39 by MOJEH

NÂ° 39

JUL / AUG

LE VOLUME DE CHANEL - DIMENSIONS DE CHANEL

LE VOLUME DE CHANEL - DIMENSIONS DE CHANEL LE VOLUME DE CHANEL - DIMENSIONS DE CHANEL

EXPRESS YOURSELF IN EVERY DIMENSION EXPRESS EXPRESS YOURSELF YOURSELF IN IN EVERY EVERY DIMENSION DIMENSION

CHANEL . COM CHANEL CHANEL . COM. COM

Via MonteNapoleone, 7 - Milano

larusmiani.it

CONTROL TIME The sky so bright, the birds in flight â&#x20AC;&#x201C; yet she had no power to keep them. So Time gave her strings that attached to his wings and gave her the control she desired.

#MakeTimeYourOwn

The Savoy Suite - an Artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Residence, London

ICONIC HOTELS. UNFORGETTABLE MEMORIES. Fairmont connects guests to the very best of its destinations, providing travellers with memorable

Fairmont Baku, Azerbaijan

experiences and attentive service in luxury hotels that are truly unforgettable. Discover Fairmont in 8 destinations in Europe, from the Savoy in London to Fairmont Monte Carlo via Fairmont Montreux Palace, you will find hotels unrivaled in their destination.

Fairmont in Europe: ST ANDREWS, MONTREUX, MONTE CARLO, HAMBURG, LONDON, BARCELONA, BAKU, KIEV.

SUITE MOMENTS Book a stay in a Junior Suite or above on our Suite Moments offer and enjoy up to 20% savings, breakfast included, plus a Classics Perfected cocktail (non-alcoholic available) on us.

Fairmont Le Montreux Palace, Switzerland

DISCOVER OUR HOTELS AND BOOK ONLINE AT FAIRMONT.COM/EUROPE

Gateway to your moment in over 20 countries. fairmont.com

Fairmont Rey Juan Carlos I, Barcelona

UNFORGETTABLE. since 1907.

Every detail anticipated for every request fulfilled with personalised service, aiming to go beyond all expectations to create tailor-made and unique experiences for our members.

The ultimate indulgent experiences with Louis Fourteen

At your service 24/7 Central offices in Dubai with liaison offices in Geneva, Paris, Milan and Los Angeles.

T: + 9 7 1 4 4 2 5 8 6 0 0 | W: l o u i s f o u r t e e n . c o m

16 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Publishing Assistant DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant Kisada Hurin

Fashion Writer Laura Beaney

Senior Advertisement Manager Pamela Bayram Cleave

Editorial Assistant Sophie pasztor

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists KAWA H POUR GEMMA BEDINI

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

MOJEH Men Group Peter Iantorno Dmitri Ruwan

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212-213 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

ART Producer LOUIS AGENCY

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Concierge Service Management daisy marchant

Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Digital Strategy LOUIS AGENCY

Online Division Ali Roman

Contributing Photographers PELLE LANNEFORS ANTHONY ARQUIER VIVIENNE BALLA

Cover photographed by Vivienne Balla, model wears Fendi

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2015): 13,306 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011

M o j eh C o ntent s

MOJEH Women 118. Meeting the Mukhi Sisters We sit with Maya Mukhi to discover how her family is shaking up high jewellery norms with wearable designs.

124. Helena Christensen From her go-to lipstick to her skin-saving juices, the supermodel breaks down her approach to inner and outer beauty.

144. Josephine Dahlin The Deitas co-founder shares her shopping insights and tells us how to elevate our simple staples to a new level of elegance.

Style 50. Pre-fall Edit

108. Chained Melody

Hold on to summer’s silhouettes or update with

From Dior to Boucheron, this season’s jewellery

microprints as mastered by McQueen. Pre-fall’s trends

statement is delicate, whimsical and encourages you

offer a glimpse into what lies ahead.

to stock up on the finer things. It would be rude not to…

60. Power Play

120. Show Me The Way

Dissecting the concept of modern-day power dressing

Transition between Christian Dior’s affinity for flora

and communication through clothing, ask yourself,

and taste for travel with these intricate timepieces

how much power is there in your personal style?

and compass-faced jewels.

Photoshoots 36. A New Decadence Opulence revisited. We open up a world of luxury worth living in, showing silks sequins and sheers for daywear.

76. Autumn’s Solace Cosy knits, capes and furs. MOJEH takes to a barren Swedish landscape to transition our outerwear intentions.

92. Heat Wave Conspicuous in crimson. Updating our palette with a new colour for a new season, we capture the diversity of this rich hue.

Health and Beauty

Features

128. Secrets From The South

30. Fair-weather Friends

Unearthing the truth behind Brazil’s burgeoning

Do you know who your friends are? As social

beauty scene, MOJEH speaks to the nation’s

structures shift, we explore the ever-evolving formula

industry experts.

behind our female friendships.

132. The Digital Diet

138. Lagos by Lagosians

Is limiting our digital devotion a fast-track route

Cultivating a reputation as Africa’s mainstay for

to peace-of-mind? We learn how to take down

fashion, art and fine dining, we seek out the

our phone-time.

luxury within Lagos.

Flights of Fancy

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

Photographed by Anthony Arquier

Nothing beats shopping from the pre-fall collections. Year after year, the season offers the perfect antidote to trans-seasonal dressing and the well-travelled woman, who finds herself floating from one destination to the next. Better still, where the fall collections are at times too heavy for the Middle Eastern climate and summer too out-dated, pre-fall proves itself the remedy. Considering that it needs to work that bit harder for you, make your selections from designers that believe in timelessness, functionality and durability as key. Clare Waight Keller’s Chloé girl has proven herself resilient beyond the seasons, not too dissimilar to Phoebe Philo’s Céline, which is a wardrobe of staple yet stylish fundamentals put together for fall; while Peter Dundas’s first outing at Roberto Cavalli might appear hot-natured at first glance, but in its opulent yet wearable approach, it flawlessly leads the season. Of course, fashion should always be fun, so we look towards the likes of Gucci’s prints and Versace’s predictable sex appeal for the compulsory high notes and It-pieces. As we embark upon our summer escapes, be it for the short or long haul, for a week or for the duration of July and August, now’s the time to rest and reflect. Take note of our health and beauty pages and focus on the things you love over the coming weeks. Summer is about exploration, be it world exploration or self-exploration.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

E d i t o r ’s SN A P SHOT s

Atlas Adventures Navigate your way through unexplored lands, ensconced in an earthy palette of dusty brown, rich burgundy and moss green. Use precious stones to transform your daywear, like Fabergé’s Lady Libertine emerald timepiece, or trek through new cities in Louis Vuitton’s utilitarian boots built for longevity.

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, words and styling by Sophie Pasztor

24 s t yl e note

Intrepid Explorer Be inspired by rough African plains with accessories that sing to the great earthy horizons. Burnt orange, muddy brown and khaki green stand strong, while raffia textures, such as those found in Christian Louboutin’s heels, call out to the wild.

Shoes, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN | Clutch, BOTTEGA VENETA | Sunglasses, ETRO | Bag, CHLOÉ

Elevated Ease Opulence mustn’t be forgotten – look to Alexander McQueen’s embellished flats to accompany a black lace jumpsuit or Balenciaga’s minimalistic slides with a youthful sundress. Making the switch to effortless footwear will promote sumptuous comfort and easy living.

Left to right: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN | BALENCIAGA | N°21 at Etoile La Boutique

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, words and styling by Sophie Pasztor

a cces s o ry n ot e s

Secret

Garden Brush back nonchalant waves while you sail across exotic seas, letting the ends of your hair coil in a cool coastal breeze. Add heirloom hair accessories, like a Miriam Haskell mini gold crystal comb or Staurino Fratelliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dragonfly clip, for a vintage touch.

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, words and styling by Sophie Pasztor

Top to Bottom: MIRIAM HASKELL @sophiescloset.com | STAURINO FRATELLI at Istana Jewellers | LELET NY @sophiescloset.com

M o j eh W o m en

Style Never Sleeps

Carolina Herrera De Baez carries the Baret bag

“The beginning of the work, the inception of the idea, where you’re just madly making up a story or madly creating what you want it to be: That period is my favourite,” Carolina Herrera De Baez, creative director of fragrances at Carolina Herrera, told us in an interview for MOJEH Issue 29. “Then, you have to streamline it.” That moment of invention is thrilling to De Baez, signalling the start of another adventure in the House of Herrera; another chapter in the elegant heritage brand’s history. Accompanying De Baez on the journey is the Baret bag, introduced this spring and inspired by the 18th century explorer Jeanne Baret, the first woman to circumnavigate the globe. A woman who may well have appreciated the clean

New York is the city that never sleeps and neither does style, if you’re Carolina Herrera De Baez, who takes on the town with the Baret bag.

straps and functional front closure. “I love the Baret bag and I carry it all the time, when traveling for business and leisure. It is a perfect accessory to any look,” says De Baez. As for the essentials a modern pioneer might carry? “I like to carry a book; I have my iPad for photos, movies and everything else, and my iPhone. Isn’t that depressing, an iPad and iPhone?! But, everything I need is in there.”

Words by Natalie Trevis.

lines and effortless style encapsulated in the sleek handbag with its sturdy double

In my opinion the bag says who you are. It’s a statement. It is something we wear in addition and therefore it fully reflects our taste and our personality. The bag is a woman’s status symbol. I always used to say: “Tell me the bag you’re wearing and I’ll tell you who you are!” The buckle feature has become your brand’s signature staple. How did it originate? When I was in Brazil, I worked for a Brazilian brand designing jewellery, and this background helped me to develop my buckle, which immediately became my logo. It is a precious evocative element that reminds me of a jewel, a symbol of timeless elegance, for the woman wishing to make a statement all of her own with high quality handcrafted accessories.

Meet Paula Cademartori A handbag is more than a mere fashion accessory for Brazilborn, Milan-based Paula Cademartori. We get to know the young designer, whose love for colour, vibrancy and bijoux makes her bags stand out from the crowd.

What’s been your biggest career defining moment? When I built my own company! What’s been your greatest business lesson? The number one lesson I’ve learned in my lifetime is that nothing beats hard work. Hard work outweighs talent and intelligence and is necessary if you want to succeed. This not only means working hard when things are going well, but working harder when things are not. The fashion industry is going through a real

What do handbags represent for women

How do your bags cater to the Middle

period of change at the moment. What do

today?

Eastern woman?

you feel needs to happen for it to be better?

A bag can make every woman feel good, it

Well, I always try to create the ‘perfect bag’ that

Everything is so fast now that everyone always

means more than just a way of carrying things

(in my opinion) should be first of all functional,

wants more and more, and quickly. In this way,

around. Both revealing and concealing, it also

because we carry it with us all day long – but, at

no one can even perceive the value of things

represents something deeply private to its

the same time, should make you feel beautiful,

any longer, or the time taken to realise them. I

owner.The bag is an accessory, very closely

allowing you to be noticed without showing off.

think the fashion industry need to get slower.

Words by Susan Devaney

associated with every woman’s personality.

People need time to appreciate luxury goods.

It is your choice of bag that can make sure

How do you accessorise your own outfits

you stand out from the crowd.

day to day?

What are your future goals?

Of course, with a bag and shoes from my own

I’ll be focused on expanding my network of

You started out very young, what advice

collection! I love bijoux. I’m used to wearing

sales in the world and in a few years, opening

would you give to young designers starting

rings and earrings, and a lot of bracelets. I think

the first Paula Cademartori flagship store –

out today?

they can enrich your own look.

that’s my goal right now. Actually, I’m working

Firstly, truly believe in what you are going to do.

hard to develop my company and expand

Secondly, never give up when faced with that

As a woman, what does a handbag mean

the collection’s offerings with new products,

first “no”. Lastly, work hard to achieve your goal.

to you?

in order to create a complete lifestyle brand.

T A L K I NG P O I NT

Pretty Little Things, photographed by Amber Gray, MOJEH Issue 22

Fair-weather Friends Celebrities wax lyrical about sisterhood, but statistics say that our friendships fall by the wayside as we reach maturity. MOJEH explores the formula of modern-day female friendships.

By Laura Beaney

are worrying that friends are disappearing and

upon our social groups. This is an innate

the time for socialising in a big group is over.

element of our gender coding, “Girls tend to

Times, however, may be changing. Socially and

swarm together and there usually is a ‘queen

politically, female solidarity is evident globally,

bee’, who is leading that group. Women/girls

and culturally, women are celebrated as not

are wired to be in ‘social groups’,” says Dr

only more sociable but also more supportive

Saliha Afridi, Lighthouse Arabia. This sense

of each other.

of self-confirmation via group association also

In the media, the notion of female friendship

spills over into the workplace.

is still very much alive. In February, MOJEH

During the Sixties and Seventies, you were

reported the rise of the #GirlSquad with the

nothing if not part of a movement, whether

likes of Hadid and Swift popularising the idea

that be Warhol and Sedgwick’s Golden Circle

that a large group of female friends is a good

or the explosive friendships of fashion, played

thing. We discussed how the word ‘feminist’

out in Paris by the likes of Saint Laurent and

and the concept of ‘feminism’ are being talked

Lagerfeld. Today, the success-hungry attitudes

about like never before. What does this mean

associated with the Eighties are passé, but

in the 21st century? World events are also

we do find women like Cathy Horyn asking

highlighting a heightened sense of female unity.

‘Are There Real Friends in Fashion?’, following

Take the recent protests held by women in

a critique of her friendship with L’Wren

Latin America. In the last 12 months, females in

Scott. Indeed, fashion is typically filled with

Mexico, Bolivia, Colombia, Argentina and Brazil

controversy, but looking to the likes of Alamira

have come together in a series of protests,

Noor Bani Hashim and Buthaina Al Mazrui, you

designed to highlight gender violence in their

can believe that the answer to Horyn’s question

largely ‘macho’ societies.

is a resounding “yes”.

In fact, Argentina has been home to its very

Whilst launching Café 57, the duo was

own celebrated ‘girl gang’ since the Seventies.

supported by what many would deem to be

During the period of military dictatorship, the

their direct competitors. “There is room for

You’re 25 years old, chances are that you’ve

Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo came together

everybody... we’ve never faced any cattiness,

completed your education, started your first

to march against the disappearance of their

but rather real support and pride from others.”

job, you can probably drive, and you spend

children, putting pressure on the government

Inline with Bani Hashim’s notions about female

your free-time socialising and wondering

and drawing attention to Argentina’s dire human

support, the likes of McCartney and Paltrow

what lies ahead. This is also the age that

rights status. Though the circumstances of

openly flaunt their friendship with letters of

researchers predict you will start to lose

their bond are unnerving, what can be taken

admiration posted on Goop.com and Paltrow

friends. Whilst attitudes vary according to

away from these displays of female solidarity is

attending McCartney’s ’16 Pre-Fall show as

culture and location, a 2016 study conducted

the game-changing nature of their sisterhood.

her +1. And, whilst we can only imagine the

by the University of Oxford concluded that the

These women are empowering one another,

lucrative benefits that the Jenner/Hadid girl

maximum number of friendships for females

making headway in their fight for social justice,

gang might attract, we do like to hope there

generally occur at the age of around 25,

not self-promotion.

is some authenticity in their circle as starting

declining thereafter. In your early twenties,

Further reinforcing the staying power of female

conversations around female unity can only

friends are the most important thing in your

friendship, psychologists tell us that we, as

be a positive thing. “I don’t think our industry

life, but by their late twenties, many women

females, develop our sense of identity based

has ‘girl gangs’ per say, but within our office,

32 you find different friends with similar lifestyles

forms in adulthood, it is usually maintained,

they are more likely to reach their personal

and interests,” says Farah Zoghbi, The Qode.

because it is formed by two people who have

and professional goals. “We always step in

“Naturally, you tend to flock towards those and

the sense of self and a level of confidence

for each other no matter what. We’re both go

make your own group.”

to figure out what they like and dislike.”

getters and wildly determined, so we make

The curious thing about science is that we

Rather than losing popularity as the stats

sure that no matter what the other person

seldom fit perfectly into its stereotypes.

suggest, perhaps by the age of 25, we are

comes up with, we find a way to make their

Marriage and maternity were once the order

simply more in-tune with the type of woman we

vision happen.” And, whilst the social sampling

of the day for twenty-somethings, but now as

are and the type of woman we want in our life.

of our teenage years may not hold up as we

our lives take a less structured route, the notion

This is the type of contemporary connection

enter into the years of anticipated motherhood,

that women should turn their full attention to

that Bani Hashim describes with Al Mazrui,

marriage and professional advancement,

their spouse feels outdated. As women marry

referring fondly to her friend as more of a

perhaps there is something to be said

later in life due to career choices and shifts in

‘sister’. She explains that by working together,

for saving a special space for sisterhood.

social attitudes, friendships can offer an integral support system, fulfillment and reassurance, traditionally associated with romantic love. And, whether we want work friends or not, science says they do have a place in our lives with positive effects upon our engagement and productivity. “Research is showing that a certain type of friendship can be encouraged in the workplace,” says Afridi. Although, this is friendship in the professional sense, rather than the emotionally driven group mentality we see among the women of South America or the girl gangs of LA. The psychologist adds that the type of friendship prescribed for the office is not the ‘lean on me and cry’ kind, but rather the work together and enjoy each other’s company kind. “Not all friendships are created equal,” notes Afridi, and far from defining our friendships in one swift category, they vary as greatly as the stories behind them. We can all agree that some girls we aligned ourselves with during our teenage years may have been influenced by external circumstances like popularity and proximity, but the connections we make in later years are supposedly more solid. “If a friendship

S o c i ety Wo m en

My Stylish Life:

Words by Sophie Pasztor

Roshni and Karishma Khemlani

Roshni and Karishma Khemlani, photographed in New York City by Jason Jean.

Roshni Khemlani

Motto to live by: Dream big, work hard, stay focused and

Motto to live by: Work to become, not to acquire | Best

surround yourself with good people | Best advice you’ve

advice you’ve been given: Take risks. You don’t have

been given: It’s not always about reinventing the wheel. Think

a voice if you don’t take risks | Person who has taught

about what’s out there and try and make it better | Person

you the most: My mother – she has taught me to always

who has taught you the most: My father. He taught us how

remain focused on what I am trying to achieve and always

to dream. He always encouraged us to pursue our dreams

try to stand out from the crowd | Your favourite person:

| What inspires you the most: I feel most inspired when I

My grandfather – he’s almost 80 and still running his

travel, particularly in my favourite cities – New York, Japan

textile business, travelling the world and maintains the

and Hong Kong. I love seeing how different people from all

same passion as when he started out | On the bucket

around the world with similar objectives and lifestyles put an

list: Learn Mandarin | Most exciting event in your diary

outfit together | Last book that you read: Oprah’s What I

for July: I am going to be working with Rebecca Bradley,

Know For Sure. It was definitely some soul-feeding reading,

a London furrier, on cutting and designing fur | Last book

and throughout, it teaches you to be aware and conscious of

you read: #Girlboss by Sophia Amoruso – it is a quick and

all of life’s little blessings that we tend to forget in the midst

entertaining read about how to channel your passion and

of everyday noise | Song on repeat: Drake – Controlla |

hard work, while keeping your insecurities from getting

Favourite beach destination: Cheval Blanc, Maldives |

in the way | Song on repeat: Alicia Keys – In Common |

Autumn itinerary: We show our collections in Paris every

Favourite beach destination: Bali | Ideal holiday: I am

season, so we’ll be there in September, after which I fly

more of a city girl, so I prefer city destinations to explore.

straight to Ibiza for a friend’s wedding, and then back to

I love Asia and so, an ideal holiday for me would be city

Dubai, where I am currently based | Favourite regional

hopping between Bangkok, Hong Kong and Singapore. I

designer: Sandra Mansour | Heels or flats: Heels, because

love the local cuisine and I love the fast-paced Asian culture

I find them more beautiful. But, in reality, I spend most of

| Summer itinerary: New York – Spain – London – South

my days in sneakers or espadrilles | Style icon: Christine

of France | Autumn itinerary: Barcelona, Frankfurt, Madrid

Centenera | Signature style: Laidback luxe. My go-to outfit

and Paris | Favourite food: Spanish tapas | Favourite

is a statement coat or leather jacket, ripped jeans and a

fashion brands: I love Moschino for their bold designs

quality tee, with a good pair of espadrilles, sneakers or ankle

that really make a statement and I love Gucci’s entire

boots, depending on which country I’m in | Best denim

new look under designer Alessandro Michele | Favourite

brand: I recently discovered Frame in LA | Blow-dry or au

Middle Eastern designer: Zuhair Murad – his work is

naturel: Au naturel with a little sea salt spray | Best hair-

breathtaking | Heels or flats: These days I am more into

treatment: I’ve used vitamin spray on wet hair ever since I can

flats. I love my new season Gucci espadrilles | Trend to

remember, and it’s definitely made a difference | New beauty

covet for Pre-Fall ’16: Frayed cropped denim | Go-to

find: Tarte Cosmetics in New York. I think it may become

hairdresser: Hair by Partners – St John’s Wood, London |

my favourite beauty brand | Staple lipstick: Marc Jacobs:

Best hair-treatment: Moroccan Argan Oil – it always gives

Kiss Kiss Bang Bang | Everyday sun factor: The highest I

my hair a silky feel and leaves it looking shiny | Favourite

can find. As I get older, I’m learning the importance of how

beauty brand: Anastasia Beverly Hills | Staple lipstick: I

to naturally protect your skin from all things aging related

am more of a lip-liner-and-colour-in girl. I love Soar by MAC

| Best beauty tip: Stop using face cream in the night and

| Nail colour for August: Burgundy | Favourite at-home

switch to a face oil or serum. This made a huge difference

beauty solution: I make a super juice every morning with

– I started to use an organic rose oil by Ila Spa, handmade

chia seeds, kiwi, spinach, apple, pear and cucumber – it

in the Cotswold in England, and have never looked back

gives me a kickstart in the morning right before I work

| At-home beauty solution: A superfood matcha-based

out | Signature scent: Armani Privé, Rose D’Arabie |

green juice every morning | Signature scent: Jo Malone –

Workout routine: I work out with my trainer Monday

Peony & Blush Suede | How often do you exfoliate: Twice

to Friday for one hour each day. It is a pretty intense

a week, using Aveda’s Tourmaline charged face exfoliator |

work out combining cardio with weightlifting | Additional

Herbal remedies: Turmeric and lemon juice with hot water

supplements: Iron and zinc tablets for a stronger immune

to boost the immune system. Sugar and olive oil exfoliator

system, Berocca Boost if I know I have a long day |

for the body | Best workout: At P3 (Dubai) with my trainer

Natural remedies: I believe putting ice on my face once

and Barry’s Bootcamp (London) | Favourite place to run:

or twice a week, it’s good for getting a glow and healing

Regent’s Park, London | Yoga or Pilates: Reformer Pilates

skin allergies and heat rashes | Yoga or Pilates: Yoga

Karishma Khemlani

Roshni and Karishma Khemlani are the stylish duo behind London-based contemporary fur brand, Izaak Azanei. We caught up with the two jet-setters in New York to see how their international outlook and desire to stand out from the crowd shapes their signature styles.

S t yle Notes

New Decadence From light dustings of sequins, daywear dresses formed with vast volumes of sheer fabric to soft silks with unexpected twists, a new era of decadence is upon us. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one in which originality and understatement are key.

Photographed by Vivienne Balla Styled by Kelly Baldwin

For offbeat opulence, add one key point of interest to an otherwise laissez-faire look. Gucci’s sequined bow tie says everything and more. Shirt, GUCCI | Silk shorts, CHLOÉ

A rich palette of lilac and red is the perfect hue for a lavish two-piece set. Add interest with small details such as unkempt finishes and lazily worn shirts. Top and skirt, VERSACE

The bustier makes its return, but with an army of styling possibilities. To dress down, opt for a silk shirt worn underneath and allow for trousers and slippers to soften its otherwise austere nature. Bustier, Oscar de la Renta | Silk shirt, SAINT LAURENT | Trousers, VALENTINO | Shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Small frills and delicate lace offer a slight coyness to any ensemble. Beauty Note: Enhance the incandescence in clothing by encouraging radiance on the skin. Focus on an illuminating tools and cream bases. Top, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Beauty: Face, illuminating base, CHANEL, and cream cheek colour in Pink Sand, TOM FORD | Lips, Lip Lover in Monceau, LANCOME

42 Fur is an obligatory statement for fall, but this season’s take-home pieces – perfect for the Middle Eastern climate – delicately dust over the body instead of engulfing it. Team block coloured versions with lighter fabrics in luminous shades. Fur and dress, FENDI | Bracelet-ring, SAINT LAURENT | Earring, CHLOÉ

An illustrious river of sequins flows into a current of spirited typography, where idiosyncratic patterns offer a sense of playfulness to what could otherwise be an overly decadent ensemble. Cardigan, OSCAR DE LA RENTA | Skirt, GUCCI

Downplay your gown game with light clusters of sequins and jewels in dark, regal hues. Sheer fabrics offer softer sentiments and undone hair signals a natural nonchalance. Dress, VALENTINO | Bra and pants, LA PERLA

Propose an edge of affluence to the purest of tones by selecting pieces with gentle nods of glamour. Silk flowers with jewelled centres build the grandest of collars. Dress, FENDI | Earrings and ring, GUCCI

The high bohemian spirit of summer neednâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be left behind as we move into pre-fall. Bring forward warmer mineral-hued pieces and accessories with heavy duty jewellery to add depth to an otherwise agile look. Dress, CHLOĂ&#x2030; | Serpent bracelets, SAINT LAURENT

The new look is about a carefree, non-conformist attitude. Showcase a cool style anarchy by clashing regal looks with feminine accents. Beauty note: Dark plum is this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shade. Wear with a bare complexion and lightly smoked eyes. Dress, Elisabetta Franchi | Neck scarf, GUCCI MENSWEAR| Beauty: Lips, Rouge Dior in Pink Caprice, DIOR | Face, Light Wonder foundation in Glow and Instant Soft-Focus Beauty Flash Primer, CHARLOTTE TILBURY

Model: Anja at Wilhelmina Hair and Makeup: Manuel Losada Location: Palazzo Versace, Dubai

The Look

Michael Kors

Micro Manager They might be delicate, but Prefall’s perfectly formed micro prints still pack a punch.

Bigger isn’t always better. As we transition between seasons, a novel micro print from the Pre-fall collections provides a tantalising sweetener that

Erdem

foretells the style direction to come. Checks, tropical blooms and graphic shapes take their places in the print line-up, but it’s the subtle little blooms and repeating patterns of the mini print that captures the eye and the imagination, like an optical illusion. Erdem Moralioglu can be relied upon to elevate florals into timeless classics. Tiny pale blue and gold silk petals on a stark black background do just that, and always with a nuance that nods to modern grandeur (helped along by the model ‘sisters’, photographed as if in a John Singer Sargent portrait). At McQ Alexander McQueen, flowers make way for miniscule lips, butterflies tailoring that swerves the saccharine. Alessandro Michele continues to paint a vision that speaks of his magpie approach to design at Gucci, with individual pieces infused with foliage, moons, stars and whimsical blossoms given an eccentric twist. Take your pick of the prints this Pre-fall: Size matters.

Versace

McQ Alexander McQueen

Words by Natalie Trevis

and cat’s eyes, executed by Burton on sharp

Bags, Saint Laurent

Small Stories Staying with us from flight to festivity, the versatility of the summer satchel comes in a smaller size this season.

From festivals to farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets and foreign exploration, nothing signals summer quite like a crossbody bag. Championed by Saint Laurent and favoured by the likes of Olivia Palermo, this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s satchel has been revisited and resized. Smaller, mobile and map-friendly options that are ready to tread the streets of Napoli or regale at a dinner party await. And, the designs are as diverse as the destination. Think elaborate zebra prints on cowhide outlined with tassels, soft suedes and sun-reflecting metallics.

T h e T r end

Giorgio Armani

Infinite Summer Words by Natalie Trevis

The Pre-fall collections joyfully squeeze every last drop out of summer style.

Gucci

When the last days of summer draw in, it’s hard to say goodbye to the breezy chiffon dresses and cotton slips that have been our mainstays for long, lazy days by the pool and laughter-filled vacations. But, with Pre-fall collections bursting with light, colour and fluid silhouettes, we can hold on to the magic of the season for just a little longer. Giambattista Valli takes an innocent and eclectic route into fall, with whimsical lilac mini dresses and floral motifs that build gently on classic styles of the early Seventies, an era endlessly associated with sun-worshipping free spirits. Clare Waight Keller’s Chloé creates ethereal fashion moments like no one else and Pre-fall is no exception, as billowy silks offer a wispy ode to the cloudless blue skies of summer. It’s not hard to imagine the Chloé woman traversing the globe, en route to Marrakesh on a whim, and she might well be joined by a similar freethinking rebel wearing Giorgio Armani Pre-fall (a collection dubbed Bohemian Rhapsody), filled as it was with tiered slips and belted kimono jackets. We can play summer forever.

Emilio Pucci

Giambattista Valli

The Mood

Chanel

McQ Alexander McQueen

The Revival Of Grandeur Grown up glamour is back with a vengeance in the Pre-fall collections. Awash with brocade, velvet and shimmer-flecked silks, a Studio 54-infused allure pervades. Nonchalance and understatement take a back seat in favour of an overtly polished aesthetic. Making an effort is in. Peter Dundas at Roberto Cavalli encapsulates the mood with intricate embellishments that weave across velvet gowns, while leather bomber jackets receive a luxe-punk treatment in multi-toned patchwork. Yet, sneakers and silky neckties paired with eveningwear signal that this is opulence for now, rather than a facsimile of glam gone by. Like Lagerfeld’s bee-hived film noir vixens, Max Mara channels a new kind of femme fatale in draped, hooded coats and uptown Jacquard tailoring, given a bad girl edge with fishnet underlayers and studded leather accessories. Pre-fall’s woman wears her fashion as armour – powerful, bold and seductive – and, she’s ready to make an entrance.

Words by Natalie Trevis

The Pre-fall collections provoke a grand reaction this time around, laced as they are with divine opulence.

Roberto Cavalli

Fa sh io n IN F O C U S

ROBERTO CAVALLI

High Tea Hang up the tweed suit and welcome the new era of pre-evening attire, in a range of 6

5 4

ALEXIS MABILLE

New Nomad Whether you’re touring the Amazon or birdwatching in Ecuador, utilise an assortment of utilitarian pieces to elevate your look.

58 1

PRISM

Riviera Cool

Stroll by the calming waters of the French Riviera in gilded silk robes and sun-kissed 6

5 3

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Social Business

A business never sleeps. Let jewel toned pencil skirts and sculpted jackets exude professionalism as multi-textured brogues add 5

Tal k ing P o i nt

Gareth Pugh a/w16

Power Play By Natalie Trevis

More than form, function or frivolity, how much power is in your personal style? We discover that thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more to getting dressed than meets the eye.

they’re going to wear,” said Business of Fashion founder Imran Amed, in a debate with AFR Magazine’s Marion Hume, “it’s because clothes are the most democratic form of self-expression, one that almost every human being has. We can’t lose that.” How we perceive what we wear is crucially important and, therefore, allows us to do away with outdated notions of power dressing – matching suits, dark colours and concealing silhouettes, in short, dressing like men – in favour of a modern approach that makes us feel a whole lot more authentic, and without a shoulder pad in sight. “I think power dressing is feeling comfort, both physical Chic black tailoring makes a statement in New York

and mental, and also self-expression,” says Yara Flinn, self-confessed utilitarian tomboy and designer of minimalist New York label, Nomia. “I have always been

What went through your mind when you

we wear have power not only over others,

fascinated with clothing as a visual and

opened your wardrobe this morning?

but also over ourselves,” notes researcher

sociological form of communication. I

Did you pick your outfit for an important

Dr. Adam Galinsky, who added, “there

think women should wear clothing that

meeting, lunch with friends, the gym,

seems to be something special about the

represents their personality and not worry

maybe a date? What you chose almost

physical experience of wearing a piece

about how it might come across to others.

certainly affected how you approached

of clothing.” This means that our clothes

I think the more genuine you feel, the more

and interacted with the world today. What

are not simply a visual expression of how

confidence you exude.”

if what you wore could even affect the

we want to present ourselves to the world

Women in the public eye are particularly

outcome of an interview, exam result or an

that day – our social armour – but a way

astute when it comes to picking the right

important business decision? Researchers

of enhancing our cognitive processes. Our

outfit for the occasion, whether the red

at Northwestern University studying the

clothes have power.

carpet, a talk show or press tour. Michelle

phenomenon of enclothed cognition found

If clothes can affect body and brain,

Obama’s eye-catching jewel tones, feminine

that people show heightened attention to

altering our psychological states, as

dresses and statement accessories help

tasks when attired accordingly (participants

well as the opinions of those whom we

her identify with her audience, from a

in white lab coats that they believed

encounter, traditional power dressing takes

graphic floral dress courtesy of South

belonged to a doctor made half as many

on a whole new meaning. “Let’s not forget

American designer Carolina Herrera on

errors in tests as their peers). “The clothes

why people spend time thinking about what

the first family’s seminal trip to Cuba, to

Christian Dior a/w16

the marigold Narciso Rodriguez shift she

Clinton campaign trail in Iowa to address

wore to President Obama’s final State of

voters directly. All while wearing a series of

the Union address, which not only shone

red-white-and-blue dresses, denim jackets

like a ray of sunlight in a sea of dark suits,

and sweaters emblazoned with Clinton’s

but sold out before the end of the speech.

name, which wouldn’t look out of place

It’s a move that speaks volumes about

in the Marc Jacobs Americana-inspired

Obama’s confidence, purpose and style,

spring/summer 2016 collection. Curated

and in that moment, a yellow dress wielded

by Dunham’s stylist Shirley Kurata, the

the strength of a dozen clichéd pinstriped

custom-made pieces have the effect of

suits. She’s helped generations of women

visually aligning Dunham with Clinton in

reject the notion that the clothes we wear

the minds of a demographic more likely to

in serious settings should hide womanly

scroll Instagram for their politics, as well as

curves or minimise individuality. “I think I

maintaining Dunham’s quirky-cool feminist

struggled a lot when I worked in an office

influence on current affairs. “I was never

to feel ‘office appropriate’ and still maintain

going to see the change I wanted to if I

a sense of personal style, which is what I

were half-hearted about showing up to the

strive to balance with Nomia,” says Flinn.

polls and half-hearted about saying what I

“I am aware of the office atmosphere, but

believed in,” said Dunham. The truth is that

I aim to create clothing that can live both

Dunham’s fans, including her 2.5 million

inside and outside an office.” A wardrobe

Instagram followers, may not recall her

without arbitrary divisions might just be the true barometer of personal style. And, when the subtle messages our clothes exude need a little more punch, we can always turn to the slogan. Actress Lena Dunham has made no secret of her support for Hillary Clinton in the current Presidential race, publishing an interview with Clinton in Lenny Letter, and joining the

Lena Dunham and Katy Perry wear their support for Hillary Clinton

Carolina Herrera a/w16

64 exact words in support of Clinton that day,

singer Alix Dobkin in 1975, have tapped

but they will certainly remember her outfit.

into the trend for wearing our hearts on

Of course, Dunham isn’t the first to

our sleeves (or handbags, chests or backs

use her outfits to quite literally spell out

for that matter). Westwood, in particular,

her message. Vivienne Westwood has

has a passion for political activism, using

been doing it for years, campaigning on

her clothing, shows and public platform to

everything from climate change to anti-

raise awareness about the issues important

fracking, the preservation of rainforests

to her. Her s/s16 red label show ended

and austerity measures, and most

with a placard-wielding model protest in

recently, participating in Greenpeace’s

the name of the Politicians R Criminals

Save the Arctic photo campaign, shot

campaign, addressing climate change and

by famed photographer Andy Gotts

in opposition of the proposed Transatlantic

MBE and enlisting 60 celebrities wearing

Trade and Investment Partnership.

Westwood designed t-shirts. In a similar

For her, power dressing goes beyond

vein, the Fawcett Society’s campaign,

slogan t-shirts – it’s in practicing what

‘This is What a Feminist Looks Like’,

she preaches (she says she is currently

challenging prejudices around feminism

streamlining her business to make it more

in collaboration with Whistles and Elle, and

efficient and self-sustaining), using her

Otherwild’s The Future is Female t-shirts,

voice, and in quality over quantity (one

recreating the original shirt worn by folk

well-made dress rather than 10 sweatshop produced t-shirts). “What I want people to be able to do is buy well, by first choosing

Esteban Cortazar a/w16

well and then making it last,” she said at the time of the Arctic project’s launch, “And, I also believe that if everyone wore just a few beautiful things, there would not be such a climate change problem.” Style, as an expression of our opinions, decision-making and sophistication is

Fashion campaign: This is What a Feminist Looks Like, The Future is Female and Save the Arctic by Greenpeace

Model protest at Vivienne Westwood Red Label s/s16

seen by a post-feminist generation as an asset, not a liability. “Style helps distinguish you,” Michelle Obama told Kate Betts for the American fashion journalist’s book, Everyday Icon: Michelle Obama and the Power of Style. “It’s a great potential opportunity that people tend to leave by the wayside.” For anyone following Obama’s advice, the current collections offer plenty to demonstrate that style and gravitas are not mutually exclusive. Dior’s a/w16 collection proved a master class in workwear with a twist, even in the absence

Images courtesy of @lenadunham, @katyperry, @h_e_r_s_t_o_r_y, Georgia May Jagger photographed by Andy Gotts MBE

of Raf Simons at the helm, proposing high-waisted pencil skirts, softly tailored jackets, vintage gems and dresses with just the right amount of flounce. Where there was volume, there was a calming

Giorgio Armani a/w16 refines the corporate uniform

light-handedness with colour and print, and where shapes were simple, brocade, print and metallics stepped forth. Pieces

a jumpsuit.” If there is a lesson for power

and metallic jersey, elegance prevailed.

that reveal a little surprise in design and

dressing in today’s age, it’s as much in

“The past two seasons I was building her

a nod to a certain aesthetic intelligence

what isn’t there (Coco Chanel’s advice

universe,” said the designer backstage,

are the essence of the new power outfit.

to remove one accessory before leaving

“this season I just wanted her to be

The collections of Miuccia Prada, Phoebe

the house) as what is. “The juxtaposition

brave.” Being brave, comfortable and

Philo and Consuelo Castiglioni at Marni

of masculine/feminine is one of my most

conscious about what we are wearing

are linked in our minds with free-thinking,

important design inspirations, so I think

sounds like a fail-safe formula for creating

intellectual women: Attributes that affect

it’s nice to mix the two together,” notes

the perfect power outfit. The old notion of

our perception of ourselves the moment

Flinn. “I think wearing separates is much

power dressing can languish in the past

we don that slick Prada raincoat or Céline

more modern and easy and allows one

with the flip phone and dial up. What we

shift dress. “Our slit back blazer (which

to dress up more casual pieces with a

wear is no longer a rhetorical question

we reinvent in modified silhouettes every

refined layer on top.” Esteban Cortazar

about what we might achieve, but a

season) is a very important piece for us, as

also channeled a well-edited collection of

statement of who we are now. Whether

it has a signature architectural detail. But,

graphic shapes, eye popping tones and

it’s written out loud for the world to see

it is in the back of the jacket, so it is subtle

laser cut python and leather for a/w16.

our political leanings, or quietly stated

and easy to wear,” says Flinn. “It looks

The vibe was youthful and tough, but in

in our Miuccia-inspired confidence,

great over a pair of skinny trousers or even

such luxurious fabrics as cashmere knit

our clothes are the new power play.

JET SET

se a s o n al s ty le

MICHAEL KORS

Every excursion requires the ideal ensemble. Let velvet boots and fuzzy sandals give you a cool demeanour as you travel with bags in minimal designs, utilising ample room. Lightweight trousers offer ease of movement, while dress tops and light knit jackets offer additional style options.

3 2

The Host

FENDI

The days of traditional evening attire are over. Wrap yourself in cocoon-like proportions spun from the lightest of fabrics as you breathe life into evening celebrations. Accessories appear in opulent shades and charming textures, while bias cut tops and free flowing trousers are supremely cool.

3 1

2 4 5 6

S t yl e N ote

Style Universal

Eastern Promise Arguably the most recognisable garment in Chinese history, the Cheongsam has preserved its position as one of fashion’s most resilient styles. Design characteristics include the Mandarin collar, fitted form, Chinese knot buttons and hemmed slits. Details: Blossom prints, cross-collars, coiled buttons and silky satin textures. Style tip: Merge oriental styling with this season’s boudoir trend, by layering silk slip dresses under firmly fastened evening robes. Look for watercolour prints that depict tranquil botanical settings. Designers: Calvin Klein, Shiatzy Chen, Alexander Wang, Céline, Givenchy, Thakoon

Photographed by Anna Palermo, words by Sophie Pasztor

From the playful and colourful embroideries inspired by Latin culture to minimalist chic Breton stripes taking notes comme les Français – we’re trailing the globe and cracking the new codes of assorted style.

Arabian Nights Exotic in both location and culture, the modern day Middle East offers opulent fashion that is both progressive in social acuities and stays true to traditional design heritage. Details: Jewel tones, embellishments, brocade and velvet. Style tip: Look for rich jewel palettes with sumptuous fabrics and matching separates for ultimate regality. Opt for elaborately embellished accessories and gilded jewellery. Designers: Dries Van Noten, Emanuel Ungaro

72 Like a Parisian Home to some of the world’s most influential designers, Parisian style has always been at a prime position on the global fashion map. Focusing on style rather than fashion, the French have always known how to champion timeless elegance. Details: Monochromatic hues, Breton stripes, tailored silhouettes and neck scarfs. Style tip: Invest in quality staples that stay focussed on classic styles instead of fad trends. Opt for neutral colours that add versatility to mixing and matching. Designers: Chanel, Carolina Herrera, Jason Wu, DKNY

mexican Moment Home to the fiesta of fun silhouettes, Mexico’s rich culture has introduced the world to items like the “Huipil” tunic, the poncho and the famous “Baja” jacket. Design elements include colourful dyed fabrics that are traditionally cotton or wool. Details: Spiced hues, detailed textiles, waistcoats and decorative beading. Style tip: Pair a voluminous dress with a statement belt that has an oversized buckle to cinch the waist. Pay attention to details and accessorise with ornate earrings and stackable bangles. Designers: Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Stella Jean, Alberta Ferretti, Bottega Veneta

Amazonian Warrior Known for their lively prints, bold colours and edgy silhouettes, South Americans evoke a sense of celebration using creative expression in fashion. Details: Vivacious colours, billowing silhouettes, mixed patterns and tassels. Style tip: Go bright with vibrant hues and playfully clash loud and eccentric patterns. Designers: ChloĂŠ, Roberto Cavalli, Tommy Hilfiger, House of Holland, Missoni

Spanish Flair Originating from early Moorish culture, traditional Hispanic fashion encompasses decorative design elements such as embroideries, jewelled embellishments, statement collars and gold or silver stitching. We can still appreciate the rich sartorial history through customary Flamenco dancers that don decorative dresses in red, black, or white. Details: Theatrical capes, shape altering corsets and romantic ruffles. Style tip: Opt for sultry silhouettes that graze the body and flare out at the arms and legs. Switch traditional print patterns with hand stitched needlework. Designers: Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Oscar de la Renta, Proenza Schouler, Michael Kors

Harajuku Girls Japanese pop culture has a way of skilfully injecting mainstream fashion with youthful playfulness. Churning out trend after trend with new creative inventiveness, the Far East has always been ahead of its time in ingenious design processes. Details: Futuristic elements, quirky accessories, playful graphics and bubble skirts. Style tip: Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid to experiment with a mix of media, like opting for a neoprene jacket with metallic separates. Eccentric accessories like fashion forward drop earrings or a transparent clutch can make a world of difference by adding a touch of futuristic chic to a plain outfit. Designers: Ashish, Louis Vuitton, Christopher Kane, Paco Rabanne, J. W. Anderson

Autumnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Solace Prepare to fall in abundance for this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outerwear from cool bombers and casually oversized capes, to sturdier structures in heavy duty fabrics. Worn with soft dresses or cosy knits, layering is key.

Photographed by Pelle Lannefors Styled by Kawa H Pour

Chiara wears top, ELISABETTA FRANCHI | Suit and fur jacket, MAXMARA | Black leather belt, ELIE SAAB | Gold bracelet LARA BOHINC

Eva wears beige shirt, MALENE BIRGER | Dress, PIERRE BALMAIN Chiara wears dress and shoes, BOTTEGA VENETA | Beige blazer, ELISABETTA FRANCHI

Chiara wears black shirt and trousers, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Earrings by MARNI

Sophia wears black and white dress, long bomber jacket and belt, LOUIS VUITTON | Earrings, LARA BOHINC

Sophia wears black dress by PIERRE BALMAIN

Sophie wears black shirt, MARNI | Cape, M MISSONI | White gold earrings LARA BOHINC Chiara wears white dress and necklace, VICTORIA BECKHAM | Coat, GUCCI Eva wears pink knitted jumper with chain detailing, COACH 1941

Sophie wears black long sleeved shirt, trousers and shoes, MARNI

Eva wears rollneck, VICTORIA BECKHAM | Leather top and trousers, MALENE BIRGER | Boots, LOUIS VUITTON

Eva wears rollneck VICTORIA BECKHAM | Cape, THE ROW Sophie wears blue jacket, MARNI | Black dress, CALVIN KLEIN | Silver chain bag, ELISABETTA FRANCHI

Sophia wears jacket, M MISSONI | White gold earrings, LARA BOHINC

Models: Sophis Linnewedel at Seeds Management Chiara Mazzoleni at The Fabbrica Eva Kaper at The Lab Models Makeup Artist: Gitte Guldhammer Hair Stylist: Josephine Mai Photographer’s Assistant: Nils Lévin Stylist’s Assistant: Gabriella Cederhorn Bahar Yasi Editor: Kelly Baldwin Producer: Pour Production Creative direction: Kawa H Pour & Pelle Lannefors Special thanks to: Anna, Johan, Bella, Jesper

Sophia wears black dress, PIERRE BALMAIN | Black leather boots, SAINT LAURENT PARIS Eva wears military green dress, ELISABETTA FRANCHI Chiara wears black velvet dress, SAINT LAURENT PARIS

Photographed by Anthony Arquier Styled by Gemma Bedini

Burnt orange and crimson red bleed through our wardrobes this season as passionate hues take flight. Confidence enhancing palettes collide with voluminous cuts and textured separates.

Coat, CHRISTIAN DIORâ&#x20AC;¨| Trouser, CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS | Shirt, SONIA RYKIEL

Coat, skirt and bag, GUCCI | Top, KENZO | Ring, EN ATTENDANT SERGE | Boots, CÉLINE

Earring, dress, belt and trousers, CÃ&#x2030;LINE | Shoes, VALENTINO

Dress, FENDI â&#x20AC;¨| Trousers, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Boots, MM6 MAISON MARGIELA | Earring, JENNIFER FISHER

Trouser and jacket, MIU MIU | Jumper and bag, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Boots, CÉLINE | Earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Shirt, belt, skirt and boots, GIVENCHY | Earring, JENNIFER FISHER

100

Dress, GIVENCHY

Dress, necklace and trousers, CÃ&#x2030;LINE | Boots, MM6 MAISON MARGIELA

Fur coat and boots, BALENCIAGA

Coat, CHRISTIAN DIOR | Shirt, GUCCI

Coat, SONIA RYKIELâ&#x20AC;¨| Dress, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | Ring, EN ATTENDNAT SERGE

106

Dress, VALENTINO

Model: Zen Sevastyanova at IMG Models Makeup artist: Cyril Laine Hair stylist: Rimi Ura Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistant: Heidi Feldman Production: Louis Agency

108

A cc es s o ry tr end

C h a i n e d

M e l o dy This season’s boldest jewellery statement is so discreet that you’d be forgiven for not spotting it. Delicate, whimsical and just a little bit subversive, it’s got us all tangled up. By Polly Sweet

From top to bottom: Suzanne Kalans 18k gold and diamond bangles pack a powerful punch when stacked together or paired with DeBeers talisman bangles | Perfectly understated, the Tracey Emin x Stephen Webster ‘I Promise To Love You’ collection boasts a trove of charm like accessories in 18k gold and pave diamonds | DeBeers Talisman bangle encapsulates contemporary elegance with rough diamonds and yellow gold.

Should you not be in possession of a

A Story Told In Light, Photographed by Edorado De Ruggiero, MOJEH JW Issue 02

particularly beady eye, then so far, one of Spring Summer 2016’s hottest jewellery trends may well have passed you by. For, even though it was out in full force during the shows (at Calvin Klein, Dior, Chloé and Alexander McQueen, to name just a few), the latest way to wear jewellery is so subtle as to be almost invisible. In line with fashion’s grunge revival, fine jewellery has taken a turn for the unceremonious. Gone are the chunky cuffs, bulbous cocktail rings and oversized baubles of 2014, and in their place comes a new form of statement jewellery, one that whispers rather than shouts – gossamer thin chains, delicate bangles, tiny studs and the daintiest of rings. These understated pieces can now be seen everywhere from Dior, with its latest Rose des Vents collection, to De Beers, whose Talisman bangle perfectly captures this new feminine, graceful look. Featuring a series of brilliant and rose-cut diamonds set in 18k yellow gold, it is a bracelet that might almost go unnoticed but, when added to an armful of Carolina Bucci friendship bracelets and one or two Suzanne Kalan pieces, it delivers a powerful punch. As with the rise of ‘Normcore’, when suddenly a pair of plain white trainers and a navy cagoule felt so very now, wearing fine jewellery so discreetly is refreshing. Replacing heavy, ornate pieces with a sliver of silver or a dusting of diamonds feels easy, informal and liberating, and works beautifully in our fast-paced times. Frankly, anything more than a plain 18k gold chain or a row of studs up the ear feels contrived at the moment and speaks of unnecessary effort. “No longer is fine jewellery all about large statement pieces – it’s about being able to wear high quality designs on a daily basis,” explains Christie Wollenberg of fine jewellery e-tailer, Otiumberg.com. “Today’s consumers are much more casual in style than ever before and as a result, their taste for jewellery has changed. They want to buy beautiful pieces that are wearable and subtle enough for every day and they want pieces that can be worn both day and night to suit their 24hour lifestyle.” Tracey Emin, the contemporary British artist, appears to agree. She has just launched a 35-piece fine jewellery collection with her friend Stephen Webster, which is, in her own words, “Traditional, understated, sweet, delicate. It’s the antithesis of what

Aurate’s 14k stackable yellow gold rings retain femininity while exuding edginess.

110

A look from the Chloé pre-fall 16 collection highlights the sophistication of delicate detailing.

people might consider to be ‘successful’ jewellery (…) and I’m really pleased with it.” Featuring neat little charms and 18k yellow gold and pavé diamond renditions of some of her most famous artworks, I Promise To Love You is, given its two enfants terribles perpetrators, surprisingly understated, but it fits in perfectly with the new season’s aesthetic. The origins of this latest look can perhaps be pinpointed to Autumn Winter 2015, when Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy featured models with septum rings. With its edgy irreverence, it was a look that challenged our understanding of how to style eveningwear and made great big heirlooms hauled out of the family vault for a special occasion feel dated. “The first pieces we bought within this trend were the Givenchy ones,” Nathalie Kingham, buying director for Matchesfashion.com confirms. “And, we saw a strong response with a sellout success.” Louis Vuitton then featured body chains in its Resort 2015 collection and suddenly, it became perfectly acceptable for ladies-wholunch to drench themselves in metal wear. As with any trend, there are clear guidelines on how to wear jewellery in 2016. Key to the overall look is mixing and matching, from clashing golds (think a mixture of rose, yellow and white all jangling from one wrist) to varying up styles and designers. Multiple, mismatched earrings are also essential, with everyone from Cara Delevigne to Emma Watson adorning their ears from helix to lobe with a variety of hoops, studs and dangles. So ‘in’ is it now to be sporting at least half a dozen styles up one ear that last year, New York piercer Maria Tash help a pop-up salon during London Fashion Week at celebrity hairdresser’s Josh Wood, while Topshop opened its first piercing booth at its Oxford Street store. It’s perhaps a natural extension of 2015’s ear cuff, but today’s style set are living by the mantra ‘no pain, no gain’ and embracing piercings like it’s 1995. Ever clued up to the needs of their customers, designers have responded to the new-gen of gem wearers by creating lines that are meant to be piled on, along with individual earrings as opposed to pairs. Retailers are also following suit, selling studs as singles and rings in droves. “The biggest trend for us at the moment is women buying single ear

Models at the Chloe s/s16 show displayed an infectious whimsy in dainty golden charm anklets and single earrings.

Key to the overall look is mixing and matching, from clashing golds to varying up styles and designers.

Andrea Forhmans 18k diamond and moonstone rings offer a celestial take on things.

Calvin Klein’s s/s16 show paid homage to this new wave of fine jewellery in ropes of iridescent gold necklaces and softly glinting body chains.

studs to mix and match,” confirms Wollenberg.

could be looped several times around the neck,

“They’ll shop for two or three at a time. But, on

and Delfina Delettrez has got in on the piercing

the opposite end of the scale, we’re selling rings

trend by launching a line of engagement septum

by the handful. The idea of stacking rings on

rings. Ranging from Dhs7,000 to Dhs30,000

every finger and having multiple piercings is of

the rings are exclusively available to buy from

huge appeal right now.” Meanwhile, Sophie Quy,

her flagship store on London’s Mount Street

fine jewellery buyer for Net-a-Porter and proud

and are further affirmation that in 2016, it’s all

bearer of no less than six ear piercings herself,

about the lobe.

observes that customers “are having fun and

Perhaps the greatest appeal of this latest

getting more ear piercings. We sell Maria Tash’s

trend wending its way through our jewellery

pieces as singles and have seen an incredible

boxes is that it doesn’t require a complete

response. More is definitely more!” Louis Vuitton’s

overhaul of one’s cache. Most of us can work

Lockit earrings have been this season’s runaway

with what we’ve already got, so long as we

hit, while Spinelli Kilcollin’s interwoven rings have

steer clear of anything big, brash or colourful.

reached cult status and are fast becoming a

For the more reticent, it’s adding one more

collector’s item. Victoire de Castellane at Dior,

ring here, one less huggie there and an extra

meanwhile, purposefully created a sautoir

chain at the throat. But, for those who really

necklace for the new Rose des Vents line that

want in on the latest craze – pile it on, we say.

112

HIGH NOTES

CHANEL

2 3 4 IMPERIAL ELEGANCE Regality is the name of the game. Let the awe-inspiring craftsmanship of contemporary jewellery inspired by the past herald a new form of brilliance, with handworked earrings in liquid gold and necklaces of immaculate diamond. Rings are fashioned in mother of pearl, while watches provide haute precision. 1. A. LANGE & SÃ&#x2013;HNE | 2. PIAGET | 3. CARRERA Y CARRERA | 4. YOKO LONDON | 5. BUCCELLATI

114

ELIE SAAB

1 2

MODERN MAGPIE Let delicately cupped gold earrings and finely woven silver watchstraps pave the way for a new movement in stylish simplicity. Rings appear with meaningful wording, while slender bracelets and weightless necklaces offer a new kind of sparkle in effervescent moonstone and polished diamond. 1. PIAGET | 2. SAMMIE JO COXON | 3. BVLGARI | 4. PASQUALE BRUNI | 5. DE GRISOGONO

3 4

116

Masculine Moments

t h e watc h

Changing the pace after its first female timepiece creation, the Première, Chanel turns its attention to masculine territory with the launch of the Première Boy. Blurring the lines of gender distinction once more, Chanel presents the Première BOY watch, a timepiece with a masculine allure designed for women. Taking its octagonal form from the No.5 perfume bottle, the sophisticated sobriety of the design is completed with a polished or satin-finish and a luxe, black, alligator strap. Whilst subtle, brilliant-cut diamonds outline two of the five-piece collection, the rest remain true to their masculine inspirations with a simple, steel façade and black guilloché dial. Making a personal statement, the aesthetic ventures away from the traditional confinements of watchmaking and reflects the famously masculine desires of Coco Chanel.This collection is perhaps a logical move from the Parisian Fashion House, credited with breaking away from masculine and feminine rigidities and changing the aesthetic of womenswear from the conspicuous, opulent and extravagant to the understated and elegant. Reinforce the notion of masculinity by pairing the Boy with a white shirt and anti-fit jeans or contrast it against an elaborate gown for an evening affair.

H y p n o t i c

H U

The Stone: We rediscover the opal, one of the world’s most remarkable stones. As maximalist and bold colours build momentum in the world of fine jewellery, softer hues are seemingly taking a backseat. But, there is one stone still positioning itself above the rest in 2016, and it is as unique as it is mesmerising – the opal. Seen recently worked into designer collections from Sutra to Chopard and showcasing itself at this year’s Baselworld, its incredible ability to elegantly refract light through its innumerable colour variations is what gives it an enduring allure. Each opal is as unique as the next and consists of either a pearl like lustre known as ‘opalescence’ or a rarer specimen generating vivid colour flashes called ‘play-of-colour’ when turned in light. For the woman who looks towards softer high jewellery pieces, for either an eloquent enhancement to her daywear or a hypnotic addition at night, the opal reigns strong.

Words by Sophie Pasztor

Top to bottom: Earrings, KIMBERLY MCDONALD @net-a-porter.com | Ring, CHOPARD

118

T h e D es i g n er s

The Mukhi Sisters, Meena, Zeenat and Maya, all wearing jewellery pieces from their collection.

Meeting The Mukhi Sisters

How are you modernising the classic notion of fine jewellery? Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been doing this unintentionally since we first started. Coming from a family of fine jewellers and already owning a jewellery company, we decided to offer something new to the market. Something precious, unpretentious, and most of all, something that is very wearable

There is no greater bond then that between sisters, and Maya, Meena and Zeenat are a trio modernising the notion of fine jewellery through their label, Mukhi Sisters. We spoke with Maya Mukhi to see how their individual styles play into their creative process.

and designed to last. Our clients are ladies with individuality. We also have a lot of clients who are not fans of traditional jewellery. What has shaped you the most as designers? Wanting to stand out in the crowd. The world of fine jewellery is limitless and it revolves

Reverie on the Vine collection

around the ideas of preciousness and beauty.

styles and how we would wear our jewellery,

What we want is to offer something precious,

and also how we imagine our clients wearing

beautiful, wearable day and night, and most of

them. What we are sharing with our clients is

all, something that defines you as an individual.

our style. That’s why it’s very personal. For example, the three of us are passionate about

Hair ornaments are a major focus of

rings. Zeenat doesn’t leave the house without

your newest collection. What about them

wearing at least seven rings, and that’s why

inspires you?

we are very focused around stacking rings. I

They are symbols of dreams and royalty to us.

am a huge fan of headbands and headpieces;

That’s why when we first started seven years

I collect them, I design them and I wear them

ago, one of our first designs was a headpiece.

a lot. That’s why you see a lot of hair buckles

We are fans of new bohemian style and we

in our latest collection.

decided to ‘up’ the hair game this season, while staying true to our initial ideology. Summer

What has been the best part about working

is here and we want our clients to be part of

with your family?

this reverie. Hair ornaments are sexy and they

It made us understand each other and discover

immediately change the look of the person

each one’s abilities. Working together

wearing them.

definitely made us respect each other more and brought us closer.

What items are you most likely to borrow from your sisters?

How has your heritage influenced your

I take Meena’s huge yellow gold earrings;

designs?

Zeenat ‘borrows’ all of Meena’s clothes and

Being half Indian and half Lebanese, we are

Meena wears our mum’s necklaces!

influenced by the mix of styles and colours. I believe this is what gives Mukhi Sisters an

Do you have jewellery that provokes any

added edge. I think this is why our clients keep

childhood memories?

telling us how different our style is.

Both our parents are jewellers and so, in being brought up in that environment, many of our

How has your style as designers progressed

memories are jewellery related. I still wear

over the years?

two of my favourite childhood rings – one is

The nature of our style is always present in

with three emeralds and the second has three

our collections. What strikes us the most is to

diamonds. I wear them as pinkie rings today!

see our maturity reflected as our collections

I have a yellow gold torsade bangle with my

progress. Reverie on the Vine is a feminine

initials that I stack with other bangles. I got

collection and yet it carries this feel of ‘new

it as a present from my parents at their 10th

bohemia’ – it has character.

wedding anniversary! Meena has a yellow gold necklace and a moonstone ring that she wears

How do you demystify traditional notions

very often. The necklace is a very Eighties style

of fine jewellery being only for special

one and reminds us of big hair and blazers from

occasions?

that time period. Zeenat holds on to stackable

This is exactly why we started Mukhi Sisters.

precious rings from her childhood. She sees

Jewellery used to be something worn only

beautiful stones and craftsmanship in them.

during special occasions. Our aim is to design jewellery that becomes like a second skin to

What item of jewellery are we most likely

our clients. Whenever we sell Mukhi Sisters, we

to see you in?

make sure that our clients are happy with their

Maya: A stack of gold bangles.

piece and that they will wear it and abuse it,

Meena: Dreamcatcher earrings and pendant.

as opposed to keeping it in a safe or a drawer

Zeenat: A combination of rings from our

somewhere.

collections. What do younger audiences want from fine How do your individual styles impact your

jewellery today?

creative process?

I think they are looking for something subtle

A lot. Our designs revolve around our individual

and discreet.

120

xxxx x x x x x

Show ME Show ME The The Way The Way With its salute to the rose, devotion to a star, and in taking the form of a compass, the Rose des Vents collection echoes Christian Dior’s fondness for flora and voyage. Gentle in form, yet profound in significance, whether worn singly or stacked, these intricate jewellery and timepieces exude effortless nonchalance.

Mr Dior’s passion for flowers, particularly his beloved rose, first took root in his childhood house in Granville. He later picked up a mysterious star on the ground in Paris, which would later become his ‘lucky star’ – the La Mini D de Dior watch in satin, yellow gold and diamonds is its veritable evolution.

Images courtesy of Annemarieke van Drimmelen for Dior

Photographed by Annemarieke van Drimmelen

“I wanted to start from the idea of a little motif pendant. And, what is more metaphorical than a medallion?” asks creative director Victoire de Castellane. “A symbol of travel, in it you find echoes of Christian Dior’s star and the idea of the good-luck charm, but also the rose, his favorite flower.” Here, the Rose des Vents necklaces are worn stacked in various compositions for a casual effect.

122

As rings, bracelets or necklaces, the small but mighty motifs nod towards all of Christian Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loves. According to the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s movements, each showcases alternate faces, from a wind rose face to a minute star. Each ring has a character of its own, from yellow or white gold to pink, and the compass face showcases the softness of mother of pearl or onyx.

“Rose des Vents is also a metaphor for creation,” explains Victoire. “Creating is about searching, turning things over, and then finding one’s cardinal point and setting off on a journey.” Worn either together on one wrist or spread across both hands, a collection of bracelets is the ultimate summer style note.

124

B e au ty S ec r et s

My beauty life:

Helena Christensen Helena Christensen, 46: The supermodel and photographer reveals how she gets beautiful from the inside out. By Helena Christensen

Sonia Haria / Stella Magazine / The Interview People

Helena Christensen

My earliest memory of make-

such as men’s long johns under

up was putting on bright blue

vintage ball gowns, with a little

mascara and frosty pink lips at

knitted sweater over the top.

age 15 or so. I even got a perm

And, of course, pairs of Converse

to go with this awesome look.

sneakers in different colours –

Despite my modelling career,

sometimes one of each colour. I

I actually never read a fashion

was very on point!

SKIN SECRETS Luxury Face Oil, Rodin Olio Lusso, and firm Action Pore Refining Mask, Ole Henriksen.

magazine till I was almost out of

Now, my routine is mostly very

my teens. I was obsessed with

simple: I cleanse my skin, I tone,

interior decorating magazines.

I moisturise. Although, on some

QUICK FIXES Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour in La Fascinante, Chanel, and divine Oil, Caudalíe.

But, I think I subconsciously

days I use several serums, oils,

dressed in a rather bizarre way

drops and moisturisers, hoping

that might be regarded as a

the combination will have a

trendy blogger look nowadays,

magical outcome. I love Nude

Helena’s Supermodel Essentials TOP SCENTS Deadofnight and Meltmyheart perfume oil, both Strangelove NYC. MORNING MUSTS ProGenius Omega Treatment Milk and Miracle Mask, both Nude.

HAIR HEROES Restore Mask Treatment, Living Proof, and Love Conditioner, Davines

London Fashion Week, 1998

skincare products; my favourite is the ProGenius Omega Treatment Milk, which instantly hydrates and contains all five omega oils. 1997 saw the model favour sensual beauty with refined makeup and sleek hair.

Another favourite is Rodin Olio Lusso face oil, especially for when I’m on a flight, as my skin gets very dry and dehydrated. But, my biggest secret isn’t really a secret: It’s getting good sleep. I can really feel the difference when I go to bed early and sleep soundly all the way through. And, of course, water – lots of it. Although, this can be a slipup of mine as often, I just don’t feel thirsty. However, I go boxing and make sure to drink plenty of liquids during those sessions. I do feel a beauty regimen can make a difference. I’ll often apply face masks when I’m at home working or cleaning, and I notice how my skin feels firm and glows afterwards. I drink all sorts of juices that I make myself, mixing Christensen reveled her feminine side at the 1996 Victoria’s Secret fashion show, opting for sultry hair and a glowing complexion.

2 3

5 1 4

126

Isabell Kristensen’s high profile fashion show in Copenhagen, 1999

cucumber, green and red pepper,

and is very special. It’s a small,

aloe vera, parsley, mint, apple or

intimate and sustainable project,

pear. They make me feel refreshed

which is something that speaks

and energised, and hopefully help

to my heart.

to restore my skin from the inside.

There are and have been so many

As for my hair, it’s long and crazy,

beautiful women in this world,

so it needs a lot of conditioning.

who are beautiful to me because

I believe that superficial beauty

their talent and personality gives

won’t do much for your self-

them unique allure – women like

confidence. On the contrary,

Frida Kahlo, Jean Seberg, Octavia

some of the most insecure people

Spencer, Julianne Moore, Marilyn

I’ve ever met are regarded as

Monroe… and, of course, my

physically beautiful. I believe

97-year-old grandmother, who still

that confidence comes from

is the prettiest lady over 60 I know!

knowledge, wit and charm. At the end of the day, if you possess one or all of these, you’re smart enough to know that it’s not about exterior beauty – it’s about being healthy and just plain taking care of yourself. Exuding happiness brings you a long way up the confidence ladder. This doesn’t mean that getting a manicure or a new colour and cut won’t make you feel really good and pretty. But, it’s more about doing this for yourself and not because you want some sort of approval from others. For a quick-fix, though, Chanel Rouge

Allure

Velvet

Fascinante is a red lipstick that never lets me down. Everything else can be a mess, but when I apply this one, it instantly gives me a little beauty hit. My favourite perfume is one a friend and I developed over four years. It’s called Deadofnight Beauty was strong and fierce with a bold lip and heavy contouring in Gianfranco Ferre’s 1994 show.

7 8 10

Drama was enhanced in Christian Dior’s 1993 show, as Shakespearian designs called for theatrical makeup and an elegant up-do.

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, words and styling by Sophie Pasztor

F i g h t i n g

F i r m As summer is upon us, there has never been a better time to prep your body for the warmer weather. Start by massaging Nuxe Contouring Oil onto your body to breakdown infiltrated fat deposits, then apply Estée Lauder’s perfectionist cream to firm and uplift the face.

Repairwear Uplifting SPF 15, CLINIQUE | Perfectionist Wrinkle Lifting/Firming Serum, ESTéE LAUDER | Cellutox Active Body Oil, ELEMIS | Body-Contouring Oil For Infiltrated Cellulite, NUXE

128

B e au ty S ec r et s

Secr e ts F ro m The S o u th Adept in creating cosmetics from her antioxidant-rich natural resources and an inspiration to the industry at large, here, we unearth the secrets behind the Brazilian womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beauty model. By Laura Beaney

The universe of Brazilian beauty is a wide one. Unique in their aesthetic, Brazilian women display a diverse heritage. L’Oreal describes the population as one of the most mixed in the world, representing a ‘human scale laboratory to innovate and to invent products that may be sold around the world’. Across the country, visual elements of Dutch, Japanese, African and Indian ethnicities can be found, with colonialism and immigration having played a large part in the vast cultural melting pot. The residents range from Bahia’s curly haired, light-eyed beauties like Adriana Lima to the German Brazilians of the south who, like Gisele, display light hair, freckles and fair-skin. Putting aside the spectrum of physical appearances, one common factor that unites Brazilian women is their insatiable thirst for beauty. “Nobody does beauty better than the Brazilians,” claims Dr Luciano, Brazilian plastic surgeon and author of ‘Beauty is Power: Dr Luciano’s Brazilian Beauty Secrets for Staying Young.’ Luciano’s bold statement is attested to by the 2014 Euromonitor statistics, ranking Brazil as the third largest global consumer for cosmetics and second for haircare. In this celebrity-driven market, it is not uncommon for a lipstick to appear on a telenovela one day and be sold-out the next. Brazil is also home to over 23,000 fitness establishments – second only to the US. Much like the Middle East, the body-obsessed nation has a highly social culture, centring around the beach; so, it is perhaps unsurprising that many of the world’s top ranking supermodels are Brazilian, indicating that to Brazil, beauty is a serious business. Home of the keratin-infused, Brazilian Blowout and a place where it is not uncommon for plastic surgery fees to be paid in installments – opening up procedures to the lower social classes – Luciano insists that the Brazilian woman takes a wholesome stance when it comes to her beauty. “Contrary to the widespread impressions conferred on the nation by some media outlets, the Brazilian approach to beauty is not, in fact, external. Brazilians believe in the holistic approach, called ‘Mens sana in corpore sano’, meaning ‘healthy mind, healthy body’.” Buriti oil for SPF, coconut water for haircare and acai for anti-aging, the Brazilian woman has long been using her natural flora for its medicinal and cosmetic results. And, these practices are feeding into worldwide beauty trends with an increased global demand for natural beauty. Perhaps the allure stems from the unfathomable form of Brazilian favourites, like Lima and Ambrosio, or the fresh-faced glow of Helena Bordon. But, either way, brands are taking notice. Whilst L’Oreal develops products specifically for the Brazilian market, celebrity haircare favourite, Rahua, built its entire brand on the restorative rahua oil harvested from the Amazon rainforest, its users believing it to be the secret to their shiny hair. With Rihanna and Diana Ross among previous collaborators, in 2015, MAC launched a makeup collection with Brazilian blogger Julia Petit, who chose a sun-kissed palette inspired by her city, Sao Paulo, and an ingredient list to hold up against humidity. We also have the Brazilian women to thank for expanding our fitness vocabulary as their pursuit of the perfect body set trends like the Brazilian Tummy Tuck and Buttlift. A country that radiates from the inside out, if you want a glimpse into the beauty trends of tomorrow, take a look inside your Brazilian friend’s cosmetics case.

130 Hailing from Bahia, Adriana Lima radiates an enviable Brazilian glow, opting for natural looking makeup.

The Multiple Illuminator, NARS | Pop Lip Colour in Papaya, CLINIQUE | Le Prisme Blush Powder Blush in Lune Rosse, GIVENCHY

The Make-Up Aiming for the natural look above all else, Brazilian women shop for makeup that enhances without looking artificial. “She wants to look young and beautiful, but naturally; she wants her skin to shine without too much makeup,” says Francini Franco of Brazilian make-up brand, Hot MakeUp. With the tropical climate playing a large part in the Brazilian approach to makeup, women invest heavily in skincare and favour cream and liquid compositions that will withstand humidity, according to Vanessa Rozan, a leading makeup artist from the region. Rozan captures that famous Brazilian glow by layering blusher before bronzer and using a highlighter to draw attention to the cheeks and brow bones.

Bahian model Marina Nery sets the skin barometer high with her glowing complexion.

The Glow Brazilian women believe that beauty comes of cacao and coconut water, it’s easy to understand why. The latest super food to find favour with the skin-obsessed community is Buriti, a fruit that yields antioxidant-rich, precious oil, discovered by Amazonians and known to protect against sun damage and aging. The Amazonians use the oil in its raw form, but brands like RMS utilise the ingredient in their Buriti Bronzer to achieve healthy, glowing skin, while Leonor Greyl blended Buriti into their iconic, multitasking Huile Secret De Beauté oil,which celebrities slather onto their skin and hair.

Words by Laura Beaney. Images courtesy of Getty

from within, and hailing from the country

Brazilian blogger Camila Coelho sports a sleek, straight style at NYFW AW16

All eyes were on Brazilian-born supermodel, Ari Westphal’s natural curls at Chloe AW 16

The Hair “Women want beautiful blonde hair like Gisele,” notes Sao Paulo’s preeminent celebrity hairdresser, Marco de Biaggi. In previous years, the coiffure du jour was the infamous Brazilian Blowout and then the softer, surf style with multi-tonal highlights. Recently, we have seen a backlash against the chemically straightened look, which has reflected globally, with Brazilian Elixir, RAHUA

models like Ari Westphal supporting the natural curly hair movement. Styles aside, the Brazilian woman leads another trend – using the natural ingredients of her region for her haircare. “Brazilian women rinse their hair with coconut water and use coconut oil as their conditioner,” offers Biaggi.

Svelte figures reign supreme at Sao Paulo fashion week, Agua de Coco SS17.

The Body The quest for the ‘body beautiful’ is a lifelong struggle for the Brazilian woman, who is, at least in the media’s eyes, unfathomably toned and curvaceous. “Brazilian women treat fitness like a religion,” says Leandro Carvalho, who created the ‘Brazilian Buttlift’ for his client, Alessandra Ambrosio. The trainer to the Victoria’s Secret models reveals that women “need a lot of variety” in their workouts. When preparing the girls for the runway, Carvalho begins with a warm-up that feels more like a dance class, combining elements of ballet and Afro-Brazilian movements before working with weights. “One thing’s for sure – they will always end up on the mat with ankle weights on, doing lifts,” says Carvalho.

132

M OJEH M ind

Th e

Digital Diet

Is the un-shared life worth living? MOJEH looks at what it means to find freedom from the digital world.

By Laura Beaney

Ananda in the Himalayas, a destination spa offering meditative techniques to encourage time out and inner peace.

Our transition into a tech-focused existence has

encounters and even a better posture, released

been a fluid one, with digital support entering

from text-induced neck strain. This type of

almost every element of our daily lives. Whilst we

retreat aims to draw a distinction between

simultaneously use an app to book our evening

our online and offline worlds, yet increasingly

barre class, check our e-mails on our laptop

they are interrelated. And, whilst a far-flung

screen, take a sly swipe down the Instagram

beach vacation or tech-dead guided retreat

feed and quickly glance at the progress of our

may be the ideal tonic for many stressed-out,

Uber, life before these online marvels seems a

single travellers, for others, simply cutting out

distant and difficult memory.

technology cold turkey is not a viable option. If we

Undoubtedly, Miroslava Duma, like most

can’t avoid it altogether, we can certainly learn to

dynamic women on-the-go, has benefited from

manage it, incorporating digital detoxing into our

our era of online enhancement. Yet, last year,

lifestyles rather than making it a one-off event.

the style icon announced to her 1.3 million

As Apple’s CEO, Tim Cook, recently reminded

Instagram followers that she would be taking

us, “For many… the iPhone is an extension

a break from all things digital to experience

of ourselves.” Seamlessly blending into every

‘JOMO (Joy of Missing Out)’ whilst on vacation.

element of our lives, from the morning alarm

“I finally realised that my phone has become

to the calorie counter, step-tracker and

a physical extension of myself. And now, I

music player, the over-urge to check can be

seriously want to get past the impulse to Google

overwhelming. Addressing this compulsion,

every random thought, reply to an e-mail the

some start off small, instituting rules for short

second it arrives and check my social feeds

intervals of phone-free time during meals, whilst

every spare minute.”

others like Karlie Kloss make it a weekly ritual

Mira, like Karlie Kloss, Gwyneth Paltrow and Ed

– the supermodel reportedly shuts down

Sheeran, is part of a new wave of advocates

from social media and e-mail at least once

for the self-imposed tech-break, highlighting the

a week in favour of old-fashioned forms of

benefit of switching-off in order to stay ahead.

verbal communication.

“In this increasingly connected world, many are

An expert in this field, Bold says that it can

more disconnected than they have ever been,”

be a little “challenging and disconcerting” to

explains Stuart Bold, a leading Health and

switch off for even a few moments, which

Wellness Consultant, who has worked with the

is why he recommends the incorporation of

likes of SHA, Grace Belgravia and Louis Vuitton.

mindfulness and meditation techniques to

The daily battle between our desire to dedicate

enhance any period of digital detox. “Most of

quality time and attention to our work, families,

the time, the distraction is caused by either

and well-being (studies cite our gadgets as one

continuous alerts on the screen (or audio) that

of main causes of sleeplessness) coincides with

immediately call attention to ‘something new

us perennially juggling the influx of information

has arrived’,” explains Bold. Digital distraction

fed to us through our devices – it seems that

can also be driven by force of habit. “It is often

the struggle is real. “Every bit of information, no

for the unconscious benefit of preferring to be

matter how trivial, has to be processed by our

distracted, especially at work,” Bold notes. For

brains and that processing competes for limited

those who cannot go completely off-grid due

resources and energy,” continues Bold. It seems

to family or work commitments, JOMO may still

reasonable then to expect that with less time

be availed. As a practical tip to limit the flow

spent in the face of our supposed ‘time-saving

of information to the bare necessities, Bold

technology’, we should have a greater amount

recommends disabling the alert mechanisms

of time and energy to enjoy ‘real life’ and move

for all notifications and minimising the number

forward with clarity.

of times e-mails are uploaded, rather than a

For most, understanding a concept like this

constant feed requiring continuous attention.

or identifying an unproductive behaviour is

What at first may appear as ‘boring’, empty

easy, but the difficulty lies in the application.

reaches of time – think Uber journeys, waits

With the rise in wellness-based travel, most

for a late friend or visits to the bank – can in

of us will be aware of the many dedicated

fact be transformative and liberating, “Learning

digital detoxification centres that extend from

to be in the moment with balance and to

intensive celeb-studded silent retreats in remote

learn how to skillfully respond to the moment

Californian deserts to spa-like experiences in

is an immensely valuable opportunity,” Bold

Europe; there’s even a digital detox destination

believes. Following the wisdom of Duma and

in Abu Dhabi’s Arabian Nights Village that offers

Kloss, as we digital natives navigate the cult

delightful offline distractions such as star gazing,

of round-the-clock emails combined with

live music and poetry readings.

real-life commitments, a digital detox – or at

We can perhaps predict the end result –

the very least an exercise in digital restraint

increased focus, enhanced senses, meaningful

– can go a long way in resetting our sanity.

134

M OJEH C ultu r e

Reading: A Reoccurring Relationship Fantasy, non-fiction and Fitzgerald. As the popularity of print rises once more, we reflect upon our enduring relationship with the book.

Words by Laura Beaney. Images courtesy of Getty, Penguin Random House and Simon and Schuster

Adored by the literary lovers, Olympia Le-Tan re-imagines classic book covers, transforming them into clutches.

books, the ones that make you want to take them home and keep them.” And, these ‘delights’, from the likes of Harper Lee, are now finding favour with today’s youth. For the generation that has a world of information at its fingertips, reading has once again become ‘cool’. Back in 2014, as the popularity of the book rose once more, the hashtag #HipsterBooks began trending on Twitter; parodying the contemporary

Three To Read: Female Authors Share Their City Tales

can turn their attention to the really delightful

Ask anybody about the first book they read

counterculture that can easily be found enjoying

and they will undoubtedly remember. The first

a lengthy novel, with lengthy footnotes, in a

television programme? Perhaps not. A book

(non-branded) coffeeshop.

can, in an instant, transport us back to our

“I do read a lot online, especially news,”

childhood, just like the familiar scent of an old

says Dania Sawedeg of the jewellery brand

photograph. Carrying a copy of Hemmingway

Kamushki. “I studied politics and I guess it’s

to Havana feels almost cathartic and our travel

easier to read everything online, but reading an

books become a souvenir themselves, loaded

actual book feels more real.” As well as those

with memories and coffee stains from foreign

who have moved from digital to print, there are

cities. Some of our most memorable journeys

also reading hybrids like Sawedeg, who move

come from the pages of a book. As a teenager,

fluidly between both sources. “I firmly believe

we take on the classics as part of our syllabus,

that e-books complement, but do not replace

and as a child, we begin to engage with the

books,” says Isobel Abulhoul OBE, founder of

world and learn through stories. As an adult,

Magrudy’s bookchain and Festival Director of

we carefully curate our coffee tables with those

the Emirates Airline Festival of Literature. In

reads that best represent us. Our reasons to

fact, Abulhoul has been one of a few in her field

read may be varied, yet our relationship with

to take a positive stance towards the e-book,

the book is an enduring one.

pleased to find that technology was giving

Turn back to 2011, when Borders closed

readers a new way to access books; opening

its doors and the outlook for print was not

them up, in fact, to a wider audience. From

promising. Now, almost a decade since the

an author’s perspective, the writing process

Kindle was released and the book world went

remains the same for both digital and print,

into a state of mourning over the anticipated

with Kindersley noting that as a writer, the

Chronicle of a Last Summer:

shift in publishing habits, it seems that

only differences she experiences are emotional

A Novel of Egypt

the predictions of the book’s decline and

ones. “I’m aware that there is no publisher, no

disappearance were ultimately premature, with

editor, no process between me and the reader.

recent statistics released by the Publishers

This is liberating and terrifying.”

Association revealing that whilst sales of

So, what is it that keeps taking us back to the

physical books have increased, e-book sales

basics? If we agree with those in the industry, we

are dwindling. In the way that the CD replaced

might think that it is a combination of historical

the record, which was then surpassed by the

connection and sensory experience. The book

iPod, many thought that the digital book

as we know it has retained the same physical

would revolutionise our reading habits. Yet,

format for hundreds of years, playing a key

the book has remained an intrinsic part of our

role within most developed societies, and as

life, resisting the digital incursions of radio,

Kindersley points out: “It can be no coincidence

cinema and television.

that when someone wants to wreck a society,

The reasons for this shift have not been defined

the first thing they do is burn the books.” Then

by a formal study, but author Tania Kindersley,

there is, of course, the undeniable, tactical

who is ‘secretly’ writing her own e-book,

pleasure of print that its digital counterpart

has her own theory. Far from destroying the

cannot replace. Is it this sensation that drives

physical book, Kindersley predicted that the

us to purchase and collect printed magazines

e-book would be its saviour, citing the over

and newspapers when the same content is

zealous paperback publishing habits of the

available online, 24/7, and free for that matter?

British in particular as a previous pitfall in the

“The experience of selecting a real book to read

Tuesday Nights in 1980

publishing cycle. “Britain publishes more than

uses many more of our senses than selecting

even America. A lot of these books are throw-

an e-book. We touch it, smell it, check if the

away reads. What digital publishing can do is

layout appeals, if the font is attractive. This

take these horrors away from the shelves… this

assessment is multi-layered and our brains

means that both publishers and booksellers

process it in seconds,”Abulhoul suggests that

Who: Emily Prentiss Where: Manhattan What: Chronicling the lives of those entwined in the hedonistic art scene of New York during 1980s, when the likes of Haring emerged, this debut novel follows the colliding paths of an artist, a critic and a young woman.

Modern Lovers Who: Emma Straub Where: Brooklyn What: Growing up together in Brooklyn, Straub’s four main characters are friends and former band-mates who now they have families of their own. In this entertaining novel both the new generation and the old continue to grow up in the face of life’s challenges in the now deeply gentrified city.

Who: Yasmine El Rashidi Where: Cairo What: A modern look at life in Egypt under Mubarak, in this achingly apt debut novel, a young Egyptian woman comes of age both personally and politically under the repressive regime.

136

Transporting us back to the Seventies, Orla Kiely referenced Ali Macgraw in the film Love Story with her library-staged showcase during LFW AW15.

the process of selection is a key part in our

simply ‘words on a page’, the coffee table book

play a part and have perhaps had an impact

unwavering connection. There really is nothing

is a viable fashion statement for any design-

upon the increase in book sales. Today, we can

quite like the unmistakable aroma of an old

centric homeowner. Offering guests an insight

find stylised reissues from the likes of Fitzgerald

book, heady in its knowledge and voyage.

into the mindset of its owner, it must be chosen

hitting the shelves. “These are the ones that

Perhaps those who predicted the book’s

carefully. Saudi fashion designer Reem Alkanhal

make you smile when your eye falls upon them.

demise underestimated the poignant power

uses books as a source of creative stimulation,

People can build up libraries of which they are

of words on paper. Evoking memories of right

having fallen in love with reading at the age

proud,” claims Kindersley.

of passage, the first book Abulhoul read alone

of nine, when her father would reward her

Having already taken literature to new levels

was ‘The Secret Garden’ by Frances Hodgson

for their literary discussions with ice cream.

within the Middle East, Abulhoul, who was

Burnett, whilst clutch designer Nathalie Trad

“Biographies, art history, poetry and non-

awarded her Order of the British Empire (OBE)

fondly remembers the time she spent at

fiction – I am very much inspired by books and

in recognition of her contributions to British

school devouring French classics by the

use this inspiration to create my collections.”

literature in the UAE, remains dedicated to

likes of Voltaire, Camus and Zola. “I have

Today, Alkanhal’s literary tastes have developed

increasing readership within this region and

re-read a few books that were assigned to

slightly. Moving on from ‘Oliver Twist’, she

nurturing young talent. With a positive outlook

me during my high school years. I found it

now adorns her coffee table with fashion

on the future of publishing, she notes that

interesting to compare my takeaways then to

favourites like ‘Gods and Kings: The Rise and

although her team has not yet “reached the

my takeaways today. My latest re-read was

Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano’.

rainbow”, things are certainly moving in the right

‘The Stranger’ by Albert Camus.”

Looking to the future of coffee table must-haves

direction. Whilst the rest of the world lamented

As Trad reminds us, the relationship between

like those of Alkanhal, Abulhoul predicts that

the death of print, Kindersley remained quietly

the world of fashion and literature is also an

they will retain their status as a symbol of luxury,

confident about the future of her industry,

enduring one, with designers such as Olympia

with hardbacks becoming treasured items and

and although e-book sales have slipped, her

Le Tan and Kate Spade directly referencing

‘first editions and signed copies’ increasingly

theory was still, in part, right. As the author

literary favourites like ‘Charlotte’s Web’ and

sought–after. For the coffee table collectors and

puts it, “The book has clearly not ended

‘Wuthering Heights’ in their designs. More than

café-bound hipsters, it’s clear that aesthetics

and the new, beautiful hardback is a thing.”

The Arch and the Butterfly

The Dove’s Necklace

by Mohammed Achaari

by Raja Alem

The English translation of this International Prize for Arabic Fiction-winning novel is a powerful portrayal of the inner conflict waging in a new generation. Left-wing protagonist Youssef, a Moroccan writer, who has raised his family in a spirit of open mindedness, is shaken by a note revealing that his son, Yassin, has done the unthinkable.

The first woman to win the International Prize for Arabic Fiction, Raja Alem sets up the spiritual and the profane alongside one another in this searing novel set in the rich world of modern-day Mecca, where a woman’s body is found naked in the Lane of Many Heads. Detective Nasser joins the hunt for the murderer in this labyrinthine and spellbinding work.

Stories of our

t i me

Words by Natalie Trevis

As we trailblaze our way across the globe this summer, these are the tales to take along that speak of history, mystery and love in the Middle East.

Princess: More Tears to Cry

The House Without Windows

by Jean Sasson

by Nadia Hashimi

The latest in Jean Sasson’s best-selling Princess series continues to reveal Princess Sultana’s reality as a royal in one of the most conservative kingdoms on earth. From tender family moments to the privileges and restrictions of daily life, Sasson’s position as an insider, who lived in Saudi for 12 years, makes for captivating reading as well as powerful advocacy for change.

A sisterhood of modern Afghan women is the real star of Nadia Hashimi’s haunting tale of friendship formed in adversity. Zeba is imprisoned for the brutal murder of her husband, Kamal, when she cannot account for her whereabouts that day. Awaiting trial, her fate lies in the hands of Afghanborn American-raised lawyer Yusuf, and her sanity in the bonds formed with her fellow prisoners.

Green On Blue by Elliot Ackerman Elliot Ackerman assumes with great skill the voice of an Afghan narrator in this immersive story of two brothers affected by the US invasion. In doing so, Ackerman seeks to confront American assumptions about the war in Afghanistan, illuminating the complex and often mundane reasons that cause ordinary people to take up arms.

138

M OJEH J o u r n ey

Lagos by Lagosians:

An insider’s guide to culture in Africa’s first city ‘Lagos for and by Lagosians’ as the ultimate way to experience fashion, art, fine dining and entertainment for the thrill-seeking luxury traveller. By Jareh Das

Nigerian label Maki Oh reveals its fall/winter 2016 collection.

The thick wall of humidity that hits you as soon as

for Contemporary Art, Lagos (CCA Lagos). Located

you step outside of Lagos’s Murtala International

in Yaba (which is also home to one of the busiest

Airport is unforgiving. Although it is early spring,

markets in the city, Tejuosho Market), it is an

Lagos is incredibly hot and sticky as one emerges

internationally renowned not-for-profit organisation

from the airport into a cacophony of its distinct

that was set up over a decade ago. Led by the

urban hustle, characterised by individuals who

globally respected curator, Bisi Silva, CCA Lagos is a

offer you everything from taxis to foreign exchange,

research-driven space for exhibition-making, display

mobile top-ups and luggage handling services. This

and critical conversations that challenge, encourage

encounter provides an apt introduction to the

and promote art production and curation in Nigeria.

explosive, lively, incredibly loud, fast and exciting

Aside from its rigorous exhibition programme, which

energy of the city – an ever-changing metropolitan

has included presentations by artists Jelili

destination that’s recently put itself on the map

Atiku, IRWIN, Emeka Ogboh, Wura-Natasha

for world-class art, design, fine dining and luxury

Ogunji, Adolphus Opara, Zanele Muholi and the

fashion for the adventurous traveller.

legendary Nigerian photographer, J D ‘Okhai

I have a very personal relationship with Lagos. I grew

Ojeikere’, CCA Lagos is an important part of

up here and have observed how the city, along with

the city’s critical art scene, providing a library

the country, has progressed and evolved into Africa’s

space for research and public programmes

largest economy. It is often described as ‘Africa’s

that facilitate a local-global exchange through

first city’ and it’s no wonder why, as aside from the

talks, residencies and workshops.

socio-political challenges it faces, the ‘Lagosian’

Leaving Yaba via ‘Third Mainland Bridge’, the longest

(and indeed Nigerian) spirit is one of optimism,

of the three bridges that connect Lagos Island to

determination, resilience and industriousness.

the city’s mainland, one is immediately captivated

Culture and creativity thrive here, with art, fashion

by arresting views of the expansive Lagos Lagoon.

and music flourishing both within the local and

It is illuminated by the warm glow of the sun and

international scenes. The variety of art on offer has

separates the city from the Atlantic Ocean. One of

led to the establishment of important auctions,

the most distinct sights crossing this lagoon, dotted

festivals and biennials, with Lagos Fashion and

with small barges and fishing boats, is Makoko

Design Week (LFDW) now firmly established after

– a fishing village established in the 18th century

having attracted international designers, including

that rests entirely on stilts and, up until recently,

Matthew Williamson and PPQ, vying for prestige

was home to the Makoko Floating School. Balogun

alongside esteemed Nigerian designers Maki Oh,

Market is located here and it is a self-organising

Grey, Lanre Da Silva Ajayi and Orange Culture. It

sprawl that takes over many of the streets on a

seems as though the world is now finally paying

daily basis. This is ‘THE’ destination for an injection

attention to a cultural scene that has been brewing for decades. Lagos might at first glance seem an unlikely tourist destination for the avid Middle Eastern traveller, but they share commonalities due to visitors to both cities loving luxury, fine dining, art and culture, alongside a recent poll naming Dubai as one of the most visited cities in the world by Nigerians. The intrigue is mutual. In light of this bourgeoning interest in the city, MOJEH spent a week scouring sights and sites of the Lagos revolutionised by selfstarters, who never left and some who have returned, all with the aim of contributing to local industries. A Lagos through the eyes of these creative leaders.

Image courtesy of Stanger Lagos.

For art lovers, the first stop should be the Centre

Lagos’s Stranger boutique, embracing Nigerian culture through designer clothing, accessories and a swap library.

140 An Insider’s Guide to Lagos

of the real Lagos. The mainland then splits into

young and old, local and international crowd, with art

Mojeh speaks to three female leaders in

neighbouring Ikoyi and Victoria Island (VI) and

galleries including the expansive five-storey Nike Art

Lagos, who give exclusive insider tips

adjoining Lekki, a natural peninsula connecting the

Gallery, founded in 2009 by Nike Davies-Okundaye, a

two islands to the Atlantic Ocean. Apart from being

philanthropist, artist and textile designer, who single-

the main business and financial centres of Lagos,

handedly contributed to preserving and reviving

VI and Ikoyi constitute some of the most exclusive

traditional Nigerian indigo reverse (Adire) dyeing

and expensive areas to live in Nigeria. Lekki, on the

techniques in various centres across the country.

Zemaye Okediji, Photographer and

other hand, is also home to the Lekki Conservation

Art Twenty One, another hot destination, is located

Director, The Exwhyzee Studio

Centre, an initiative established to protect wildlife in

within the luxurious five-star Eko Hotel & Suites.

“I love that Lagos is the African trailblazer

the southwest coastal environment of Nigeria from

It was established in 2013 by Caline Chagoury

sprawling urbanisation. These three areas form the

Moudaber to serve as a platform for showcasing

city’s core cultural and entertainment hub for both

contemporary art with an ethos to foster, contribute

on places to go to and where to find solace in the city’s madness.

when it comes to cities. I find that there is always something or someone new to discover, given the rapid rate of migration and urban development.” 5 places I go to find solace: The Beach; Queens drive pier; Osborne foreshore boat club; Rele Gallery; Lufasi Park

Adia Sowho, Director, Digital Business at Etisalat Nigeria “I am an addict of big cities and I won’t get out of bed for less than 10 million people to bump into, make money with or gawk at. Lagos, London, Chicago, New York – I loved and left them all, but the rush I get from returning to Lagos is nostalgic and surprising. An awakening, if you will, to the realisation of my addiction.” Must visits: Casa Lydia, A small bistro in Ikoyi with great food, cocktails, and one of the first places that unapologetically plays house music all day, every day; Ishahayi Beach – sun, sea and sand. Barely a soul in sight.

Unlike most

beaches in Lagos, this one is super private… bliss!

Osaru Alile, Interior Designer/Social Entrepreneur and Co-Founder of CC Interiors “Lagos is an extremely dynamic, exciting city. Running a business in Lagos that requires me to move around a lot inevitably means that I get stuck in traffic frequently, dealing with both road rage and LASTMA (traffic police). But, somehow I stay in love with my crazy city. To stay in love – I must take breaks!” Places to take breaks: Culinary Academy & Tarragon Restaurant, is a premier leisure cooking school/chef training centre in Lagos – it’s right in the middle of the city, which means you don’t need to travel far to get some exceptional food; Lakowè Lakes – an hour away from the hub of the city, but well worth the drive! It’s stunning, breathtaking, serene, quiet and feeds any nature-thirst. The greenery and the countless lakes make my heart sing.

Oh, Zashadu, Alexander McQueen, Tiffany Amber, Marni and Peter Pilotto. One of the most exciting brands discovered here is Zashadu by the talented leather accessories designer, Zainab Ashadu. Zashadu is a sustainable label, sourcing locally produced leather handbags and shoes made by artisans in Northern Nigeria. The brand was born out of Zainab’s interest and highly personal ethos of creating ‘an organic growth that turns the challenges of her context into strengths’. It is not driven by trends (think the explosion of popular Dutch wax ‘African’ prints), but rather Venture to the unique luxury concept store ALÁRA for contemporary art, fashion, textile and furniture.

through exquisite attention to detail, which in turn builds close relationships and creates livelihoods for artisans, who produce unique limited edition pieces

Fibre print on Aluminum Dibond, image courtesy of the artist and Art Twenty One. Image courtesy of Art Twenty One.

Works shown at Art Twenty One from artist Namsa Leuba. Umfana, from the series The Kingdom of Mountains, 2014.

and solidify the city’s burgeoning art scene. Their

from start to finish. Zashadu’s recent collaboration

programming includes a mix of group, thematic and

with the equally talented Maki Oh resulted in the

solo exhibitions of emerging and established artists,

‘Cigarette Box Bag’ for AW16, exploring how ‘boxy

including Olu Amoda, Gérard Quenum, Namsa Leuba

constraints and austere sensuality can function as a

and Abraham Oghobase. A highlight of their 2015

handbag’, drawing on a colour palette based on the

programme was the exhibition ‘Another Congo’,

richness of the Nigerian landscape of ‘lush greens,

bringing together works by acclaimed Magnum

earthly Nok terracotta and pastels’.

photojournalists Alex Majoli and Paolo Pellegrin, a

Temple Muse, another notable concept store, offers

first showing of these artists in West Africa. A short

a curated selection of renowned products and

distance from Art Twenty One is the David Adjaye-

exciting brands. These are displayed in a building

designed retail concept store ALÁRA, founded by

that also stages art exhibitions alongside an in-

Reni Folawiyo. The building stands out due the use

house champagne bar and pool for use by visitors.

of cast concrete both inside and outside. Spread

Alexander Wang, Missoni Home, Balmain, Carven,

over a series of suspended platforms, landings

Lalique, Lanre Da Silva Ajayi, Mawi London and

and staircases, ALÁRA provides a unique luxury

Loewe all feature here. Discovering the upcycled

shopping experience and is a place to appreciate

furniture by Yinka Ilori, the Nigerian-British and

art, fashion, textile and furniture. Notable luxury lines

London-based product designer, provides an

stocked here include Stella Jean, Self-Portrait, Maki

exciting addition to this stellar store’s brands. Ilori’s

Installation of Another Congo exhibition at Art Twenty One, Lagos.

142

MOJEH Recommends • Restaurants: Casper and Gambini, Nok by ALÁRA, The Food Lounge at Terra Kulture • Hotels: Eko Suites, Bogobiri, Federal Palace Hotel Lagos and The Wheatbaker • Fashion Designers: Zashadu, Grey, Orange Culture, Maki Oh and Lanre Da Silva Ajayi • Boutiques: Temple Muse, ALÁRA and Stranger Lagos

Works from renowned Nigerian photographer, J D ‘Okhai Ojeikere’s show at CCA Lagos. J.D. ‘Okhai Ojeikere, Untitled 2005.

‘upscale vintage furniture’ is a colourful juxtaposition

man-made lakes, including a spectacular 55-hectare

of textiles and found pieces, brought together in a

lake. It also includes a golf academy, a driving range

signatory style that draws on both European and

and a clubhouse.

West African culture manifested in these design

A week in Lagos, a city of approximately 20 million

objects. Ilori is inspired by the way Lagosioans use

inhabitants, seems such an insignificant period of

and wear colour – “The one thing Nigerians are not

time to explore all that this cosmos has to offer.

afraid of is wearing colour, and that is beautiful”.

A megalopolis that has transformed itself into an

Moving beyond VI and into Lekki, which is also

ever-expanding and burgeoning cultural and travel

home to the majority of beaches in Lagos, one

destination, Lagos has so many cultural offerings

is momentarily transposed into another vastly

for the adventurous traveller. From luxury boutiques

populated area of shopping malls, boutiques, and an

to influential art institutions and galleries, innovative

arts-crafts market, alongside bars and restaurants,

fashion, interiors and product designers, Lagos

all away from the business of VI and Ikoyi islands.

needs time and energy. And, alas, be prepared

Stranger is one of such boutique spaces, offering a

not to sleep, as the city is is on par with the

much-needed independently run co-working space,

greats because the adventure just never stops. As

a brew bar and swap library. It also sells innovative

writer Binyavanga Wainaina so eloquently put it,

designer clothing and accessories, alongside

“There is no country in the world with the diversity,

publications on fashion, design and culture.

confidence, talent and black pride of Nigeria.”

Stanger’s ethos is one of ‘building and strengthening’ a community of like-minded individuals to fuel an alternative culture in the city centred on colouration and appreciation of contemporary Nigerian culture.

Dine at Nok Restaurant by ALÁRA.

Partnering with organisations including LagosPhoto Festival, emerging artists and designers, it is an exciting space to have tea, work, do some yoga, whilst also exploring an international film programme of independent cinema. As the city is enveloped by beaches and intense sunlight, Dap Mod is the place to pick up unique sunglasses to navigate the sunny sidewalks of Lagos. The store is designed by Kemedeco, founded by interior designer Kelechi Ejikeme. This design house, according to its director Ejikeme, ‘focuses on creating neo-African designs using locally sourced materials’. Dap Mod sunglasses are all hand-made, rustic and distressed to preserve the authenticity of the wood from which they are produced. The ultimate way to unwind in Lagos is, of course, through culinary enjoyment and live entertainment. Fine dining experiences can be found in venues including Nok by ALÁRA, The Food Lounge at Terra Kulture and Casper and Gambini, all of whom provide delectable and varied local and international cuisines. Bogobiri House, a 16-room boutique hotel, restaurant and in-house art gallery, is a favourite for live music, whilst MILIKI, an upscale private member’s club, is an exclusive lounge bringing together artists, writers and musicians for curated events fostering creativity. To escape further and connect with nature, creative agency Nothing to Do in Lagos (NTDIL) are responsible for changing the ways Lagosians engage with their city, with the motto ‘#FindYourLagos and when you do #ShareYourLagos’. A highlight includes their ‘Kayak Lagos’ – what better way to explore the city than through its expansive waterways. Finally, this week long tour of Lagos ends with the stunning Lakowè Lakes Golf and Country Estate, located about an hour’s drive away from the city – an exclusive, secure and serene resort with a world class 18-hole golf course, complemented by several

E TKO Mini Green Croc Bag from sustainable label Zashadu.

144

S t yl e I ns ider

Hardworking wardrobe staples are given a luxurious twist at the label-you-need-to-know, Deitas. Co-founder and creative director, Josephine Dahlin, who is responsible for the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clean and elegant aesthetic, tells us everything she has learnt about style along the way.

Ten Things I Know About Style:

Dahlin

Designer, Josephine Dahlin

Deitas, available online exclusively at Stylebop.com Interview by Natalie Trevis. Images courtesy of Deitas.

Josephine

On the art of style: Know your style. Have your morning coffee or tea before getting dressed for the day, it sets your mind right before choosing your outfit. And, before you leave the house, take a look at yourself and consider taking off one accessory. On the wardrobe edit: I’m passionate about building the perfect wardrobe and, for me that means a carefully edited set of clothes that you really love to wear. I find that the most stylish women tend to have an effortless look that makes them so chic. Ease and confidence is about wearing well-made garments that you are comfortable in. Nothing is more glamorous. On must-haves: Upgrade the basic t-shirts and camisoles into good quality silk versions. Someone said that a woman needs 12 tops for the perfect wardrobe. A camisole, a tank, a couple of t-shirts, a shirt and a couple of long sleeved blouses. I love that. I suggest you make all of your “12” in couture quality silk. That’s actually how Deitas started and our “12” is now part of the permanent collection. On the Deitas philosophy: With Deitas, I want to create a clear and sophisticated brand that offers women statement capsules of coherent and confident essentials that are a timeless and modern take on luxury. Deitas has taught me: That when a woman loves a piece of clothing, and it’s a piece that makes getting dressed easy in the morning, she will come back for more. Francoise blouse, Deitas

On muses: My mom and sister have been the biggest influences on my personal style. My sister lived in Paris during the Nineties and brought home the most amazing garments

On daily uniforms: At the moment, I’m

from shoots and shows. Confident, mature,

wearing the Deitas ‘Francis’ long sleeved silk

sophisticated and happy women tend to be

satin dress and my favorite Manolo Blahnik

the most beautiful – and that is very stylish.

Hangisi flats. In the evening, I might swap the flats into a sleek pair of sandals and add a

On style evolution: I’ve always had a

blazer. I always wear a couple of gold rings

minimalist tone to my style, which probably can

and bangles from Repossi and Cartier or a

be traced back to my Swedish background.

slim diamond choker in the evening. I’m also

Meanwhile, living for 10 years on the French

now wearing our silk satin pajama jacket and

Riviera, my style has been influenced by the

pants, which have the perfect – and I mean

glamorous women living and holidaying there.

perfect – fit. I always feel really great in a pajama jacket.

On shopping: I sometimes like to experience local shops when I travel. Otherwise, I mostly

On how to succeed in fashion: Set your

buy online, vintage and new. I like to set my

mind on what it is that you can offer that no

mind to something and then not buy anything

one else does, or do it better than the others

else until I find it.

do. Then, work hard.

146

f i n al n ote

Play with shapes and proportions by introducing Karen Walkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hexagon shades to your daywear, shielding you from brow to cheekbone. Then, look to new heights and enlist accessories that will experiment with traditional form, like Stella McCartney Geta sandals.

Bag, M2MALLETIER at BySymphony | Shoes, STELLA MCCARTNEY | Sunglasses, KAREN WALKER at BySymphony | Bracelet, BALENCIAGA

Photographed by Sarvenaz Hashtroudi, words and styling by Sophie Pasztor

a b s t r a c t n o t i o n

Photographed by Julien Vallon

subscribe to

MOJEH magazine have the very best in style delivered directly to you. Call or email us at +971 4 553 9049 and subs@mojeh.com