ISSUE 44

Page 1

Passion And Power

N ° 44

FEB



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18 Chairman SHAHAB IZADPANAH

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING

Editor in Chief MOJEH IZADPANAH

Publishing Director RADHIKA NATU

Associate Editor SHERI IZADPANAH

Senior Publishing Executive DESIREE LABANDA-GAVERIA

Managing Editor KELLY BALDWIN

Junior Publishing Assistant kisada hurin

Senior Fashion Writer Mary KeEnan

Advertising Manager Sian Hayes

Fashion Writer Laura Beaney

Paris Representative GHISLAIN DE CASTELBAJAC

Lifestyle Writer Annie Darling

Advertising Inquiries Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: advertising@mojeh.com

Senior Editorial Assistant Sophie pasztor

Subscription Tel: +971 4 553 90 49 Email: subs@mojeh.com

Guest Fashion Stylists Coline Peyrot

Online Division ALI ROMAN Afreen Khwaja

MOJEH Men Group Peter Iantorno Dmitri Ruwan

LOUIS FOURTEEN FOR MOJEH

ART

Concierge Service Management daisy marchant

Producer LOUIS AGENCY

Corporate Manager JUBRAN HAMATI

Art Director AMIRREZA AMIRASLANI

Published under HS Media Group FZ LLC Registered at Dubai Design District Building No. 8, Offices 212 P.O.Box 502333, Dubai, UAE.

Deputy Art Director Richard Lee Graphic Designer Balaji Mahendran Contributing Photographers Pelle Lannefors Vivienne Balla Alexandre Felix

Cover photographed by Vivienne Balla, models wears Fendi.

WWW.MOJEH.COM Louis Fourteen for MOJEH Follow us on Twitter @MOJEH_Magazine MOJEH Swiss Representative Office: Rue de Rive 4, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland Average qualified circulation (January-June 2016): 12,275 copies. For the UAE printed by Emirates Printing Press LLC. Distribution- UAE: Al Nisr Distribution LLC. Qatar: Dar Al Sharq. Bahrain: Jashanmal & Sons BSC (C). Oman: United Media Services LLC. Lebanon: Messageries Du Moyen-Orient The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessary those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers particular circumstances. The ownership of trademark is acknowledged, therefore reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All credits are subjects to change. Copyright HS MEDIA GROUP FZ LLC 2011



20

M o j eh C o ntent s

Fashion 58. Intrepid Aesthetic Connecting the dots between continents while championing a style that commands attention, MOJEH makes tracks with Sofia Sanchez de Betak.

68. Leading A Legacy As feminism finds favour under a new artistic director, MOJEH dissects the bold new direction for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior.

72. Trends Olivier Theyskens’s re-ascension to catwalk glory is met with resort’s trimmings that recall remote locales. MOJEH examines style’s current state-of-play.

Talking Points 36. Test of Time

62. Daughters of Anarchy

As the Middle East embraces leniency towards

When style becomes a statement. MOJEH decodes

maternity leave, MOJEH considers the consequences.

the meaning behind 2016’s sartorial revolution.

40. Disobedient Bodies

138. Persian Playfield

Paradoxically known for reinforcing and destroying

From the first traces of female surfers on the waves to

stereotypes, MOJEH asks how can fashion and art

one woman’s battle to overturn a ban, we celebrate

shape the way we experience gender?

the Iranian women carving out a space in sport.


Photoshoots 44. Passion and Power Eighties prints and cuts make their mark for an opulent and graphic month ahead.

88. In Love and In Danger A fine thread of romance trails between feminine florals and a backdrop of black.

106. Southern Charm Dreamy Woodstock days collide with the current as denim and suede meet with metallics.

Society

Accessories

32. Five Minutes With

121. Da Vinci Degendered

Sofia Al Asfoor is the epitome of the self-made

IWC’s latest collection confirms that fine watchmaking

woman. We shine a spotlight on the Bahraini making

has indeed become a women’s world. We went on a

her mark in a new generation of luxury design.

journey of discovery through Florence to find out more.

146. El-Ashmawi’s Edit

128. Empowered Pieces

The visual artist and Opera Gallery curator talks

From precious stones reimagined as daywear to

memorable moments, long-lasting lipstick and the

haute horology investments, MOJEH reveals how

best place to pick up a juice in DIFC.

the modern woman rewrites the rules of her jewels.


22

E d i t o r ’s L ette r

A l l A b o a r d For 2017, the focus falls to relationships – both closer to home and further afield – as we enter into a year of change. We send this issue to print on the eve of women marching across the world in a display of spirited unity, determination and self-worth. The catalyst aside, for me, the key take-home was the display of women joining forces and fighting for one another – it’s a movement that gained much momentum throughout 2016 and shows no signs of slowing down. On a day-to-day basis, it’s our bonds with one another at home, in the office or on the social playing field that are most enriching our

Photographed by Alexandre Félix

lives and giving us the determination to keep pushing forward, and never be discouraged by gender. Charging forward in that same spirit, we’ve used February, the month of love, as an opportunity to celebrate our pride for one another. Turn to Leading A Legacy, where we shine the first light on Maria Grazia Chiuri and her opening collection for the house of Dior. She’s someone we’ve admired and supported since her early years at Valentino and now, as she sets sail solo, we’re in even greater awe of her creativity and strength. Similarly, we met with Sofia Sanchez de Betak, a style icon whose influence is still sweeping across the runways and streets; and finally, in Persian Playfield, we explore the stories of three women, who have been relentless in their pursuit of equality and acceptance of sportswomen in the Middle East. definitely on board.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @Mojeh_I and write to me at editor@mojeh.com Photographed by Pelle Lannefors

Mojeh Izadpanah Editor in Chief

Photographed by Hana Predajnianska

If these women are just a taste of what 2017 has to offer, then I’m



24

E d i t o r ’s SN A P SHOT s

Powdered Pink

1

2

3&4


5

Reveal your feminine side with romantic notes of blush, and highlight opulence through ornate trimmings. Evoke a mood of power and love with robust jackets, softened by plush fabrics such as velvet or suede. 1. ROGER VIVIER | 2. BVLGARI | 3. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | 4. CHANEL | 5. CHLOÉ | 6. MESSIKA JOAILLERIE | 7. DAVID MORRIS | 8. STELLA MCCARTNEY

8

6

7


26

J e w ellery N ot e

L o v e r s Let the stars align in a cosmic love with enthralling astrology-inspired pendants. Designers such as La Marquise and Staurino Fratelli gaze towards mystical night skies, where half-moons and comets form the motifs for the season.

Top to bottom: STAURINO FRATELLI at Istana Jewellers | LA MARQUISE

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

S ta r- c ro s s e d


CHINATOWN, 10:07 PM. HANNAH AL RASEKH STRIKING A POSE EN-ROUTE TO DINNER.

S/S201 7 @BLO O MINGDALESME


Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

28 S t yl e N ote


All That Glitters The runways are to thank for our renewed love affair with glitter. Whether it’s a sprinkling on the heel or magnified in larger than life proportions, the shimmering detail will instantly inject a jovial mood into dressing. Left to right: SOPHIA WEBSTER at Harvey Nichols-Dubai | EDIE PARKER at Harvey Nichols-Dubai | JIMMY CHOO | DOLCE&GABBANA | MARNI


30

B e a u ty N ote

Notes of Jasmine Emitting a calming and uplifting effect on its wearer, jasmine is a powerful yet sweet scent that is highly sensual. Blooming only at night, it yields a magical allure that sings to romance.

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Clockwise from the top: N°5, CHANEL | Grand Bal, DIOR | Velvet Desire, DOLCE&GABBANA | Jasmins Marzipane, MAISON LANCÔME | Olivia Giacobetti En Passant, FREDERIC MALLE



32

M OJEH I nter v i e w

Five Minutes With

Sofia Al Asfoor We get to know the Bahraini designer creating some of the region’s most luxurious handbags.

Tell us a little bit about yourself. I’m quite free spirited and am a bit of an adrenaline junkie, who lives in Nikes and enjoys jumping out of planes and racing to the top of mountain summits. I grab any opportunity to explore our wonderful world and live every breath through my brand, creating passionately for today’s new generation of women. Why did you decide to launch your brand? In 2012, after four years of research and development. I wanted to offer luxurious bags handmade in Europe with an Arabian influence that exceed expectations in quality and craftsmanship. Your designs feature geometric detailing – is there a symbolic meaning or particular inspiration behind this? Each piece resembles a shield that encapsulates and protects the energy of a woman’s true self. Who are you designing for? A powerful woman, who is the definition of daring elegance. Our woman is very chic, stylish and elegantly dressed – far more so than any other region in the world. If you could see anyone carrying one of your bags, who would it be? Someone who is active, ambitious and known for their strong work ethic. Describe your personal style. You will often catch me wearing workout leggings and Nikes with a feminine top. I love mixing activewear with luxury pieces, but like to dress up, too, especially for industry events – I love throwing on a beautiful gown. What has been the highlight of you career so far? There is nothing more satisfying than seeing a customer pick up their Sofia Al Asfoor bag for the first time. I created a bespoke piece for a client as a surprise over the summer, and it was such a privilege to see her receive and open it. When designing, where do you look for inspiration? The sample room at my workshop in Spain – I always feel inspired in this space. Travelling the world and seeing the different runway trends and colours also helps spark ideas within me. What are your brand goals for 2017? I have a great team and feel confident and excited for the year ahead. We are working hard on our expansion into new markets, such as Europe, Asia and America. Do you have a favourite piece from your collection? If so, what is it? The Exotic Shield always makes me feel warm and is a really treasured piece.

Sofia Al Asfoor


23-25 MARCH 2017 DubAi Design DistRiCt


34

FA SHION IN F O C US

1

ELENA PERMINOVA

8

7

Skin Deep From snake and crocodile to ostrich and stingray, exotic skins are the pinnacle of luxury. Dip-dyed in vibrant hues for contemporary appeal, they take on a new context and allude to your audacious side.

2

1. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 2. DIOR | 3. VALENTINO | 4. ETRO | 5. MIU MIU | 6. ALL THINGS MOCHI | 7. BURBERRY | 8. BOTTEGA VENETA

6

4 5 Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

3


8

2

PATRICIA MANFIELD

1

Upgraded Denim Denim presents an ode to the Nineties with detailed embroidery and opulent embellishments. Select accessories that further amplify these characteristics by favouring beaded or press stud details. 1. BOTTEGA VENETA | 2. GUCCI | 3. DOLCE&GABBANA @net-a-porter | 4. LOUIS VUITTON | 5. ROGER VIVIER | 6. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | 7. MIU MIU | 8. ALL THINGS MOCHI

7

4 5

3

6


36

Tal k ing P o i nt

Born Free, photographed by Marco Cella, MOJEH Issue 28


Test of Time As per a new maternity law, expectant mothers in the region will benefit from three months of fully paid leave. But, will there be negative consequences?

“A new mother needs time to recover, to heal and to rest,” she explains. “On an emotional level, those first few months are crucial for bonding with the baby.” The UAE has been praised for placing the welfare of women as one of the government’s top priorities. Today, women in the region account for 66 per cent of government jobs, and hold 30 per cent of decision-making positions. However, despite recent changes, maternity leave varies between the private and public sector, depending on the working conditions set up by an individual company. Under current law, private businesses in Dubai don’t have to offer more than 45 days maternity leave, after which a new mother is entitled to a further 100 days off work without pay. Despite this, several private companies in Dubai, including

Words by Annie Darling

Omnicom Media Group MENA and material handling company Chep, have increased their maternity leave in response to the new legislation. “At the end of the day, a happier employee provides much more to a company

For decades, feminists have challenged

Al Maktoum, President of the Dubai Women

than an unhappy one,” argues Al Jassasi.

assumptions and attitudes about what women

Establishment, who wrote on Twitter, “Happy

There’s plenty of evidence that paid family

can and can’t do. Fortunately today, we are more

to announce the UAE’s three month maternity

leave is not only good for families, but for the

likely to be taught that we can be anything we

leave. I wish all working mothers prosperity and

economy, too. These policies save businesses

want, and girls nowadays have unprecedented

success in their careers and personal lives.”

turnover costs and raise worker morale and

access to an abundance of role models. Yet, in

Nora Al Jassasi works in the government sector

productivity. However, The Equality and Human

order to achieve real gender equality, women

as a training specialist for The Securities and

Rights Commission (EHRC) has shockingly

need better laws and government support to

Commodities Authority (SCA). “It’s great that

found that 10 per cent of women felt they

help them enjoy a prosperous career. One of

the UAE is offering longer maternity leave,”

were treated badly by their employer after they

these changes would be the implementation of

she tells MOJEH, “The longer the better, for

returned to work, and one in five experienced

a universal maternity leave, because a mother’s

the family’s sake.”

harassment or negative comments from

struggle to find a healthy work-parenting

The majority of us will welcome extended paid

colleagues; 7 per cent say they were pressured

balance continues long after they give birth.

parental leave, and it’s much needed. More

into handing in their resignation.

Maternity rights in the UAE are protected under

companies are offering flexible hours, but the

We’ve all heard stories from friends and

the region’s labour laws, which, until recently,

bulk of the professional world (particularly in the

colleagues about how they struggled to go

had not been amended since 2001. Previously,

UAE) relies on staff being physically present. The

back to work after abbreviated leaves, or

employees could take up to 45 days off, and in

average professional spends eight or more hours

ultimately left altogether because they couldn’t

the country’s latest step towards gender equality,

each day at work (in addition to a commute),

bring themselves to return after such a short

it was announced that the length of maternity

which is time spent not caring for children

time with their newborn. “Companies need

leave granted to working women in government

or the household. We’re often left to take on

to have policies in place to ensure a smooth

sectors has increased to three months, which

double duty and the UAE’s latest policy is an

transition back to the workplace,” explains

can be combined with annual or unpaid leave

important first step towards women being able

Farmer. But, while the latest law helps career-

up to a maximum of 100 days. A three-day

to participate fully and equally in the workforce.

oriented women, similar developments made

paternity leave will also be given to government

Helen Farmer is a journalist based in Dubai and

by other countries have brought about the

staff, and the new law gives women the right to

runs the parenting website, The Mothership

aforementioned byproducts. So, how do we

leave two hours early for one year after delivery,

(themothershipdxb.com). She agrees that

challenge these negative offshoots? “Above all,

so that they are able to care for their newborns.

women should have the option of longer

it’s about attitude,” Farmer concludes, “as well as

The news was enthusiastically confirmed by

maternity leave so that they can settle into

making new mothers feel secure and welcome.

Sheikha Manal bint Mohammed bin Rashid

motherhood before returning to the workplace.

Companies who do this will reap the rewards.”


38

W o m en W h o I nspir e

Givenchy’s simple, elegant and iconic little black dress worn by Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1961

Before She Was Immortal MOJEH speaks exclusively with Pamela Keogh, prolific author of the international bestselling biographies, Audrey Style and What Would Audrey Do?, about one of the fashion industry’s greatest friendships that almost never came to pass.

Hepburn wearing a headscarf and holding a pair of sunglasses in Charade, 1963

Photographs by Paramount Pictures, Donaldson Collection/Michael Ochs Archives, Silver Screen Collection and Paramount Pictures/Sunset Boulevard/Corbis at Getty

Words by Annie Darling


Hepburn became known for her oversized and wide-brimmed hats, pictured here in 1957

In the summer of 1953, a spindly, aristocratic, 26-year-old Hubert de Givenchy was in the throes of preparing the fourth

Hepburn in a spectacular Givenchy creation during a publicity still for Funny Face, 1957

presentation of his burgeoning career. Despite a scarcity of time, he accepted an unexpected telephone call from his friend, Gladys de Segonzac, with whom he had worked at Schiaparelli. Married to the head of Paramount, Segonzac revealed that a “Miss Hepburn” had arrived in Paris, and that she was requesting an audience with the famed young couturier.

suited her heart-shaped face. “I think Audrey had an eye almost

An excitable 24-year-old, Hepburn was hot on the heels of

from the beginning,” reveals Keogh, “in that she was able to

her debut Hollywood picture, Roman Holiday, which later

figure out what ‘worked’ for her, and the discipline to not get

won her an Oscar for best actress. However, when she first

beholden to current trends.”

met Givenchy the film hadn’t opened yet, and there was little

Hepburn was outfitted for life by the revered couturier, who

reason for the Parisian prodigy to be familiar with, as Hepburn

designed her wardrobe for seven subsequent films. The doe-

later put it, “a skinny little nobody”. The fierce friendship that

eyed gamine embraced her slender silhouette and avoided

ensued will never be forgotten thanks to Hollywood historians

voluminous skirts, as well as provocative, figure-hugging

and a plethora of acclaimed writers such as Pamela Keogh,

ensembles worn by the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Jayne

author of Audrey Style and What Would Audrey Do?, who

Mansfield. “She had the confidence to go against the prevailing

has spoken at great length with several of Hepburn’s close

style of the 1950s,” explains Keogh. “Audrey’s style was purely

associates, including Givenchy, whom she describes as “an

her own because she took elements of her own life.”

absolute gentleman”. “Audrey and Hubert de Givenchy… I

The results were long-term. “Her style is so well known today –

think, loved each other almost from the start.”

and almost taken for granted – that something can be described

Hepburn told Vogue’s Paris-bureau chief Susan Train that prior

as ‘very Audrey’, and we know exactly what someone is talking

to meeting Givenchy, she had “never even seen a haute couture

about.” Known to be ruthlessly self-critical despite being

dress, much less worn one”. She explained to him that she

internationally beloved, Hepburn found in Givenchy a man

was in pre-production for the romantic comedy Sabrina, a film

who could make her feel self-assured.

that would soon make her the world’s highest-paid actress,

Unspoiled by Hollywood, Hepburn was breathtakingly

and that she wanted him to dress her for the role. Givenchy

charismatic and graceful, yet boisterous and resolute;

politely declined. After all, he was indisposed. She persisted

characteristics Givenchy was drawn to. “They remained close

and desperately begged him to let her try anything on, until

for the rest of their lives. Even now, I would say that Audrey was

he escorted her to his atelier on Rue Alfred de Vigny, where

one of the great loves of Hubert’s life – and vice versa.” When

she browsed samples from the previous season’s collection.

Hepburn’s first son was born, Givenchy travelled to Switzerland

It was here that she picked out a black cocktail dress, fashioned

to deliver a hand-embroidered christening gown; on her 60th

from a ribbed cotton piqué and fastened by a miniature bow

birthday, he had 60 white rose bushes planted in her estate.

at each shoulder. It featured deeply carved armholes and a

He was the mediator of her will and a pallbearer at her funeral

razor-sharp, collarbone neckline. Givenchy had not shown the

when she died in January 1993. “Audrey trusted Hubert,”

dress with a hat, but Hepburn scavenged a toque that perfectly

concludes Keogh with a small smile, “and he trusted her.”


40

c ultu r e note

The Thinleys by J.W. Anderson and Jamie Hawkesworth

Disobedient Bodies Fashion has long endured a tight and tenuous relationship with both art and gender. As we approach J.W. Anderson’s exhibition tackling this triptych, we celebrate the unique interplay.

Issey Miyake displays a gender fluid sculptural silhouette for SS17

– segments its offerings by designer rather than gender, buying into youthful brands like Hood by Air that appeal to all. “This will become normal and not a ‘thing’,” says trend forecaster, Geraldine Wharry. “The catwalks will become integrated into one gender… we have big brand names such as Gucci, Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger and Bottega Veneta leading the way in this.” Indeed, menswear and womenswear are increasingly taking cues from one another, so Anderson’s exhibition comes at a time

Words by Laura Beaney

when this type of discourse is welcomed with open arms, yet the thread is nothing new. In 1983, Yohji Yamamoto stirred up fashion’s gender expectations as he professed his preference for gender-neutral clothing. In this

Wakefield’s revered collection of modern

Rei Kawakubo, and Issey Miyake led the

Jackson Pollock and Cecil Beaton, Elsa

art informs Anderson’s investigation into the

fusion of art, gender and fashion, their

Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali, and Louis

way the human form has been reconceived

carefully constructed garments modernising

Vuitton and The Chapman Brothers are

by artists and designers alike across the

age-old Japanese couture techniques – they

a few notable pairings. The creation of

20th and 21st centuries. “This is a rare and

are credited with highlighting the Japanese

clothing does not fit neatly into the confines

exciting opportunity for me to bring together

aesthetic to the rest of the world. In this

of sketch, paint or sculpture, but fashion,

some of the works of art and fashion that

era, gender equality was a hot topic for the

like art, is able to periodically question and

long inspired my own creative work, and to

West and fashion was one platform that

re-establish our ideals. In this instance, the

see what happens when these objects rub

women could use to communicate social

two mediums come together to contest and

up against each other,” says the designer.

and political views. The Eastern aesthetic

explore our notions of gender.

Disobedient Bodies is a reflection of our

that draped fabrics, and borrowed asexual

Virginia Woolf dissected it on paper, while

current climate of acceptance. If we look

elements from technology, geometry,

the wardrobes of Marlene Dietrich and

to retail, Agender – a concept pioneered

architecture and sculpture, was the perfect

Boy George sought to challenge notions

by Selfridges in the UK – sought to blur

antidote for the women who rebuked the

sartorially; now, in his forthcoming exhibition

the lines of distinction between male and

stretched-out, form-fitting cocktail gowns

– Disobedient Bodies – J.W. Anderson

female clothing on the shop floor and

that Thierry Mugler proposed.

draws together the worlds of fashion, art

via e-commerce, while VFiles – a social

We often forget that Commes des

and gender once more. The Hepworth

network, talent hub and store in New York

Garcons together with Issey Miyake and

Images courtesy of The Hepworth Wakefield

respect, Japanese designers like Yamamoto, Fashion and art are the ultimate collaboration:


Folds of fabric to appeal to all at Yohji Yamamoto SS17

Yohji Yamamoto were once considered

disdain. Her SS14 collection, however,

revolutionary. Yamamoto is known for

received a 10-minute standing ovation. In

working with a number of collaborators;

Anderson’s set-up, Kawakubo’s designs will

in particular, his work with photographers

sit together with the works of Christian Dior

such as Nick Knight and Craig McDean

and Jean Paul Gaultier amongst others, and

resulted in iconic fashion imagery. The

figurative sculptures that seek to challenge

walking sculptures of Rei Kawakubo also

conventional notions of the human form,

sought to break down borders between art

with contributions from Jean Arp, Louise

and fashion, with architectural techniques

Bourgeois, and Sarah Lucas.

employed to garment-making, her cuts

Today’s acceptance of fluidity in costume

reflecting a personal fascination with

and culture is widespread, but gender,

interstitiality, both masking and remoulding

alongside age and size, remains one of the

the body. In Kawakubo’s words, “The only

industry’s most talked over topics. Indeed,

way of doing something new is not to set out

fashion, art and the media have always held

to design clothes.” But, when her designs

a fascination for the boundaries between

appeared for the first time at Paris Fashion

what constitutes masculine and feminine.

Week in 1981, they were met with mixed

The respective industries are, in part,

emotions and a certain level of editorial

responsible for designating stereotypes.


42

Grace by Sarah Lucas

womenswear into their wardrobes. Vivienne Westwood’s autumn/winter14 collection inspired by Tilda Swinton encouraged men and women to play with gender confines using the tagline: “Take beautiful pieces from your wardrobe or from that of your friend or

J.W. Anderson pioneered a new perception of menswear in his AW14 collection

partner and style it together with your old favourites.” In contemporary culture, her idea is almost ubiquitous – the women of today regularly repurpose menswear with men’s suit jackets, boyfriend jeans and

Fashion courses ask students to specialise

inspiration for womenswear come from the

masculine timepieces, prevalent among

in either menswear or womenswear – but,

macho archetype, Henry VIII; DSquared2’s

self-constructed styles.

in recent years, we have witnessed a global

men dressed in pleated denim skirts and

Fashion, like art likes to stretch the

shift towards unisex, which seeks to mask

Gucci guys wore floral suits. “I don’t think

boundaries of our societal norms and there

the body and promote the genderless

unisex is anything revolutionary anymore,”

will always be a tight relationship between the

clothing previously suggested by Yamamoto,

claims Wharry. “The same goes with colour

two. Indeed, tired gender categories are no

which seeks to unite. “Why should a

connotations; pastels and pinks are now

longer relevant and we have reached a point

designer be limited to one gender,” Wharry

common in menswear.”

where men and women are less concerned

asks. “If the collections are now bleeding

Trends have also seen both genders

with the side that their shirt buttons up. Far

into each other and showing together during

borrow from one another. Skirts for men

from concluding the conversation, fashion

fashion weeks, maybe they can be designed

have appeared on the catwalks at regular

and art will continue to explore and attempt

together,” she suggests. Anderson, who

intervals since Jean Paul Gaultier broached

to define the manifestation of gender –

famously brought floral blouses for men to

the idea almost 40 years ago, but recently,

but now, we are ready to experiment and

the catwalks in 2013, was in good company

the concept has become a reality with

enjoy our wardrobes more deeply. After

for the SS17 collections that saw his key

Marc Jacobs and Stefano Pilati integrating

all, we are all cut from the same cloth.


Photographed by Laura Marie Cieplik

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Passion and Power Statement sleeves remain part of the mainstay for the season ahead. Pair high-volume pieces with silhouette-framing separates. Referencing an era of opulence, Eighties prints make their graphic mark.

Photographed by Vivienne Balla Styled by Kelly Baldwin


Classic cuts are reprised when worn in softer hues and with additional typography detail. It’s the modern way. Dress, GUCCI


Psychedelic prints offer character to otherwise romantic colour and cuts. Dress, VALENTINO


Clashing prints remain a staple for 2017 – but, move away from femininity and step into headier emblems and hues. Top, skirt and shoes, GUCCI


Unkempt bows add an air of anarchy to regal prints. Top, FENDI


Bright lights, big city. Opulent colours in clashing tones make for a bold style statement. Top, FENDI | trousers, ISA ARFEN at BySymphony | ring, GUCCI



Neon hues and oversized stitching update classic tweeds for the season. The cut is key; adorn thighskimming versions. Dress and jacket, CHANEL


The athleisure trend is still in full bloom, but this time via Eighties-inspired prints and patterns. Dress, tights and shoes, GUCCI


Hearts become the emblem for February. Wear in black and with obscure prints for a darker romance. Dress, VALENTINO


Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent reinterprets denim as eveningwear. Statement brooches and earrings are key. Top, jeans, brooches and earrings, SAINT LAURENT


Model: Ekaterina at The AgenC Hair and makeup: Manuel Losada Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor Set designer: Lauren Haslam

Utilise the cooler months to embrace a statement trench. Wear with simplicity and minimal attire for a spring-time update. Top, FENDI | coat, BURBERRY | shoes, GUCCI


56

M OJEH N ew s

New For Now From the celebrity salon finally making its way to the UAE to a footwear collaboration for the greater good, MOJEH marks out the month’s most notable moments.

Doha Jewellery and Watch Exhibition; 20 – 25 February Doha’s Jewellery and Watch Exhibition is one of the few international shows that permit on-site purchases by visitors. Presenting a host of exceptional timepieces, traditional local jewellery and historic creations, as well as the very latest in high design and personalised pieces, more than 400 international brands sit alongside emerging local designers.

Christian Louboutin Beauty launches Loubichrome A luxury take on one of our favourite nail trends of late, Christian Louboutin Beauty launch a limited edition collection of three chrome mini nail colours. The polishes infuse light-reflecting pigment pearls and bottle the essence of Specchio, a laminated leather with a mirror-like quality, beloved by Christian Louboutin. The energetic shades of candy red, lime green and magenta bring a little liquid metal magic to our nails, ready for the new season.

Images courtesy of Doha Jewellery and Watch Exhibition, Christian Louboutin Beauty, Rossano Ferretti, StyleBop.com, and Southbank Centre

Doha Exhibition and Conference Center, Doha


Rossano Ferretti launches in the UAE Celebrity hairdresser Rossano Ferretti launches two worldclass salons in the UAE this month. Bringing his signature ‘Method Cut’ to the region, the Italian-born stylist already has more than 22 salons in major cities across the globe and counts Eva Mendes, Kate Middleton, Angelina Jolie and Charlize Theron amongst his high-profile clientele. Salons are to open in both Dubai and Abu Dhabi, and clients can expect a superior haircut that falls naturally, enhancing facial features. Abu Dhabi and Dubai

Malone Souliers and Natalia Vodianova reveal a collection with a conscience This month, the Italian crafted footwear of Malone Souliers meets with the sharp and chic eye of supermodel Natalia Vodianova, as the duo reveal the fruits of their combined forces. Designs are inspired by Vodianova’s love for her native Russia and its rich embroidery heritage, with each shoe stitched with the words “my naked heart”. Their collection of heels and loafers offers 50 per cent of the proceeds to Vodianova’s Naked Heart Foundation. Available @STYLEBOP.com

Adventures in Moominland; 5 January – 23 April It’s the first dedicated UK exhibition celebrating The Moomins, the iconic creatures central to Finnish writer Tove Jansson’s series of books. Part of the Southbank Centre’s Nordic Matters programme, a highly entertaining environment communicates the social and political context surrounding Jansson’s work, created amid Finland’s Winter War. The exhibition offers an extensive insight into Jansson’s landscape through recreations, original sketches and archival delights. Southbank Centre, London


58

M OJEH W o man

Intrepid Aesthetic Calling Buenos Aires, Paris and Manhattan her home, we swap nomadic notes and share style insight as we speak to Roger Vivier’s latest muse, Sofia Sanchez de Betak.

one and an Argentinian one,” she says. Carving out her creative space amidst flights to far flung regions and short breaths between shores, in a recent collaboration with Globe-Trotter, de Betak drew upon her summer vacation in Greece, using the islands of Santorini and Mykonos as reference points for her designs. Fondly known among her peers and Instagram followers as Chufy, de Betak’s nomadic nature comes into play once more with her latest incarnation as the embodiment of Roger Viver’s SS17 collection. “At first, I was very surprised, but the more we talked about the concept

Words by Laura Beaney

of the season, the more it made sense,” she admits. “I realised we’re a perfect match! I am a real ‘urban nomad’… If I’m not travelling through exotic countries, I’m jumping from capital to capital.”

book, all while cultivating her buzzing social

and derails from predetermined trends.

and explore the world,” recalls Buenos

circle. It’s difficult to keep track of her

De Betak’s life is full of opposites, if she’s

Aires-born Sofia Sanchez de Betak. Her

movements, but de Betak embraces the

not cantering across the Maasai Mara,

mother, having spent more than 30 years

risk associated with artistic endeavour, her

she’s walking a red carpet at the Opera

in the travel industry cultivating tourism in

endless adventures shaping everything she

Garnier Ballet, and her wardrobe reflects

South America, maintained that life’s most

does. “I’m now working on a book about my

the pace with key pieces always poised

important lessons were learnt during its

travels and travel philosophy,” she smiles.

for multiple occasions. “I dress depending

journeys, but the education didn’t end

“I love discovering off-the-beaten-path

on my mood, where I am, and what the

there. “From piano to ballet, cooking to

destinations, and the people who will help

weather is like,” she proclaims. “If I’m going

riding, she made sure we learnt as many

you discover these places in a unique way.”

to a crazy party, where everyone is going

things as possible throughout our childhood

Her collections also come from partnerships

to be in major costumes, I may choose

so that eventually, when the time came,

formed with the different designers, artists

to wear a short dress and a pair of cool

we could choose what we wanted to do.”

and artisans she encounters along the way,

sneakers, to be able to dance all night and

The problem is that now de Betak wants

supporting them by selling their pieces and

stick out.” Clearly not one to be constrained

to do everything. Art direction and fashion

creating a demand for their skills and lost

by sartorial norms, de Betak is regularly

design, filmmaking, modelling, and creative

artistry. “Last year, I did one [collection]

marked out as a fashion week favourite,

consulting, she confidently wears many

made and inspired by Mallorca with a local

her lithe frame looks as good in pointed

hats and is even working on her own travel

artist, and now I’m working on a Kenyan

stilettos as it does in Vivier’s lace-up boots,

Images courtesy of Roger Vivier photographed by Marilou Daubé

Her sense of style commands attention “My mother always encouraged me to travel


Sofia’s style cannot be typecast, it moves with her mood, the moment and the location


60 The perennial adventurer champions comfortable chic effortlessly

the younger generation,” she enthuses. “It’s quite insane if I look at it from afar... I grew up seeing these exquisite shoes on the most stylish women, and now I’m being asked to be part of the brand’s history… I, Sofia from Argentina who always dreamed A must-have from flight to festivity, Sofia’s Vivier lace-ups go the distance

of living in Paris and living a Parisian love story,” she grins. For de Betak, the standout piece from her collaboration must be the limited edition Viv’ Tango bag inspired by and dedicated to her. A bespoke rendition of Roger Vivier’s

an accessory that she recently transitioned

but de Batak fell in love in Paris. Like her

new handbag, Viv’ Cabas, the black tote

from flight to wedding party with grace and

emotional engagement with her own style,

with red guipure and small studs honours

ease. “They worked beautifully with my

she believes that the city speaks to women

the opulent colour pairings of de Betak’s

vintage knee-length dress,” she laughs.

that don’t have to try too hard. “Paris is

heritage, bringing her roots back to her

“I danced all night!”

spectacular, but it was built so long ago that

cosmopolitan life. “When I carry it, I picture

The soft leather boots, riding pants and

the city doesn’t try to impress or go over

myself with my friends or at a premiere at the

handcrafted jewellery associated with

the top,” she suggests. “The same applies

Colon de Buenos Aires theatre,” she reveals.

Argentina remain familiar and warm staples

to Parisian women: They are beautiful with

As a brand collaborator or model influencer,

for the woman, who admittedly doesn’t

that je ne sais quoi, without ever going

it’s easy to sit back and watch the work

spend as much time in her country as she

overboard.” De Betak’s grandmother is

unfold, yet this sophisticated traveller is

would like. And, in many ways, de Betak’s

of a similar school of thought, upheld as

deeply invested in everything she does.

life has been characterised by a cross-

the ‘most elegant woman’ she had ever

“I admire talent and stamina,” she points out.

cultural exchanges between Paris and

met; de Betak recalls encountering the

Throwing caution to the wind and

Buenos Aires. Argentina pulses with power,

countless Vivier shoes her grandmother

encouraging women everywhere to embrace

associated with the twists of the tango,

collected from Paris. “I love to see similar

adventure and artistic endeavour, we wonder,

female presidents and late night soirees,

shoes, reinterpreted today and worn by

where will Chufy’s next challenge take her?



62

fa sh i o n f eatu re

Vivienne Westwood is famous for campaigns that promote environmental protection and her rebellious spirit was evident on her spring/summer 2016 runway


DA U G H T E R S

O F

An a r chy Fashion has often been accused of being hedonistic and inconsequential, but in 2016, it played a significant role in world politics, frequently surpassing the boundaries of self-expression.

Words by Annie Darling


64

Karl Lagerfeld staged a kick box-pleated feminist revolution in Paris during the presentation of his spring/summer 2015 readyto-wear collection

In May, Chanel became the first luxury fashion house to hold a runway show in Havana, Cuba. Of course, controversy swirled. Karl Lagerfeld had never even visited the communist island until days before the event, and the label flew 700 guests to the mesmeric locale for a weekend-long sumptuous soiree to celebrate its cruise 2016/2017 collection, despite admitting that Chanel had “zero business” there. At the time, the average local wage was a mere USD 25 a month; and yet, palm frond-printed fedoras and sherbet-stained vintage convertibles swarmed the tree-lined Paseo del Prado, while sun-faded pastel mansions hosted an elaborate display of abundance and affluence. Critics were quick to argue that Lagerfeld’s romanticised crash course in a country that has been devastated by rebellion and revolution was misleading, not to mention insensitive. The collection may have been infused with Cuban colour and style (think pearl-clustered slides and fuchsia-meets-turquoise sequined ensembles), but it’s not even available for purchase on the Caribbean island. The excessive extravaganza did, however, serve in focusing the world’s attention, if only for a moment, on the previously cloistered nation, and by doing so silently celebrated the country’s decision to open up Phoebe Philo took over Céline in 2008 and has transformed the label into a political hotbed that arguably set the latest neofeminist revolution in motion

its diplomatic and commercial relations. Over the past year, the fashion industry has become a visually stunning melting pot for people on opposite sides of the political spectrum. Human rights and


Maria Grazia Chiuri made a feminist statement at her Dior debut for spring/summer 2017 with slogan T-shirts and flat sneakers paired with gowns

healthcare legislation have taken over our wardrobes, and clothes have become an effective campaigning tool that helps wearers peacefully express their views. While fashion has long been an impactful force for social change, a worldwide increase in the number of women holding government positions may explain the recent surge in protest fashion. “Fashion is still generally considered an inherently ‘feminine’ area and interest, and as a result, it tends to be trivialised and taken less seriously,” explains Dr Hazel Clark, who teaches at the Parsons School of Design in New York. Dr Jane Tynan, a lecturer at Central Saint Martins in London, specialises in the politics of design and visual culture, and she agrees with Dr Clark. “Often, fashion and politics do not mix,” she tells MOJEH, “particularly with fashion’s reputation for appropriating a particular aesthetic without much sensitivity to its original meaning or context.” Historically speaking, brevity and ambiguity have prevented fashion from achieving significant and coherent political change, despite the industry’s success in bringing about societal advancements. “It is often a matter of style over substance,” adds Dr Tynan. “If fashion is widely thought to be simply entertainment, then it can easily be dismissed as trivial.” Nonetheless, from the moment Beyoncé strode onto the field for the Super Bowl 50 halftime show, flanked by a devastatingly beautiful army of backup dancers in costumes that paid homage to the Black Panthers (a revolutionary African-American organisation formed in California in 1966 to combat white oppression), industry giants began to brainstorm garments that would leave a longstanding mark on society. The year 2016 was already set to be a fast-paced and politically charged hotbed, brimming with consecutive appearances and blood-boiling briefings. The world anticipated significant international change (whether that change was positive or not was yet to be decided), and the fashion industry was going to take advantage. After all, government influence is no longer limited to the bluestocking elite. Once upon a time, the concept of dressing politically would conjure comical images of the flamboyant French court’s sartorial obsessions, such as Louis XIV’s insistence that his courtiers wear red-heeled shoes and Marie Antoinette’s piled-high, ribbon-bridled hairstyle – the pouf. Unlike today, these crusaders were not revolutionaries, but wealthy royalists. Their ensembles were worn in support of the ruling aristocrats, rather than a statement against the status quo. Today, just as punk’s origins are impenetrably tangled in ideologies that emerged from conflict and conjecture, protest fashion has taken on a far more anarchic and enigmatic aesthetic. “Zoot suits were worn by African-American and Latino youth in the US in the 1940s, in defiance of mainstream society,” muses Dr Tynan. “And in the 1960s, hair became symbolic of black women’s struggle


66

for equality. Social movements encouraged AfricanAmerican women to give up hair straightening and embrace natural hair as a political statement. Through fashion, women reclaimed their right to challenge norms of beauty and assert ownership over their own bodies.” Expressive social commentaries and political rhetoric within modern collections are often subtler, she reveals. “The dark theatricality of Alexander McQueen’s beautiful visions and the punk fashion of Jean Paul Gaultier,” for example, “have both given fashion a political edge.” In particular, pared-back simplicity has dominated collections from Donatella Versace to Phoebe Philo at Céline, and has frequently been interpreted as feminist – whether intentional or not. Challenging contemporary fashion and ideals of femininity in an attempt to achieve gender equality has long been practiced, says Dr Clark. “Women have used fashion as part of a process of emancipation,” she explains, “by wearing less bulky and restricting clothing, including trousers.” New York native and women’s rights advocate Amelia Bloomer introduced women to the phenomenon of trousers in the mid-19th Century. She promoted a style of clothing then known as ‘Turkish Dress’, which was inspired by the less restrictive and more comfortable harem pants of the Muslim Ottoman Empire. The garment quickly became known as a bloomer and, as Dr Clark explains, enabled “greater freedom of movement, playing sports, and riding bicycles”. Another notable designer who used the industry as a platform to incite social reform was Katharine Hamnett, says Dr Tynan, whose infamous T-shirts “carried slogans that drew attention to various political issues of the day, including suicide, HIV and war”. The widely-circulated photograph of Hamnett meeting then-Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher in 1984 wearing an oversized top declaring “58% DON’T WANT PERSHING” (in reference to America’s controversial Pershing II guided missile being deployed in West Germany) shocked readers worldwide. She was soon awarded designer of the year by the British Fashion Council, as well as menswear designer of the year from the Bath Costume Museum. Whether you agree with what you see or not, in a world of white noise and contradictory media reports, clothes are a universally shared language. In June, British designers publicly declared their anti-‘Brexit’ stance, with one designer, Daniel W Fletcher, recruiting a group of friends to stage a demonstration outside London Collections Men. Meanwhile, standing onstage at the Democratic National Convention, Hillary Clinton made history as the first woman to be a major party nominee for president. Her carefully chosen white Ralph Lauren pantsuit was an irrefutable nod to the suffragette movement in 1913, which adopted white as one of their signature colours. And, in July, several Women’s National Basketball Association (WNBA) teams swapped their usual warm-ups for black shirts


Stella McCartney’s spring/summer 2017 runway saw models walk the runway in statement jumpers declaring: Girls Thanks, and No Fur, No Leather

Maison Margiela’s minimalist aesthetic for autumn/winter 2015 featured plenty of plaid and floor-sweeping lengths in an attempt to challenge stereotypical gender roles

emblazoned with the slogans #BlackLivesMatter and

freedom includes the choice to wear whatever you

#Dallas5 in remembrance of two men shot by police

want. Islamic women immediately demanded they be

and the five Dallas police officers who were killed in an

given equal respect and treatment when it came of their

attack earlier that month.

clothing choices. Fencer Ibtihaj Muhammad became

Nonetheless, while fashion can benefit and stimulate

the first American Olympian to compete while wearing

society, social and political impacts differ significantly.

a hijab, while designer Anniesa Hasibuan gained global

“We might consider the way that clothes have

attention at New York Fashion Week with a decadent

attempted to bring social control or uniformity,”

silk-smothered, bejewelled collection that was worn

muses Dr Clark, “for example, in China, during

by models donning headscarves.

the mid-20th Century and the Cultural Revolution

The last year has been a smorgasbord of sociological

in particular.” She’s quick to note, however, that

revolution and political summons, and it’ll forever be

there’s a difference between fashion and clothing.

embedded in the framework of our social history. The

The former allows self-expression, while the latter

fabric of cultural activism has long intersected with this

can be imposed on a passive or unwilling population.

industry, and 2016 (more so than any other year) has

Last year, France’s ban on the burkini, a swimsuit

toyed with the thin line that ultimately makes or breaks

that covers the women’s body except for her face,

a public opinion when it comes to politics. The industry

made headlines around the world. In April, Laurence

has made enormous contributions to philanthropic

Rossignol, the French minister for women’s rights,

causes, particularly through the hard work of projects

scolded designers for catering to the Muslim market by

like Gucci’s Chime For Change and Michael Kors with

offering burkinis and high-fashion hijabs, and accused

God’s Love We Deliver. So much has changed, will

them of “promoting women’s bodies being locked up”.

continue to change, and while we’re most likely ill-

The full-body swimwear embodied a secular country’s

informed and ill-prepared for what’s yet to come, perhaps

unease over homegrown Islamist terrorism, but also

that’s why it’s more important that we have a creative

became a focal point in the debate over whether

platform to protest and protect now than ever before.


68

D e sig n er F o c u s

Leading A Legacy Strong and soft, feminine and fierce, Dior’s spring/summer17 collection takes an empowering stand for today’s feminists.

Words by Mary Keenan Photographed by Chloé Le Drezen


Logo references were used frequently throughout the collection, appearing on accessories, footwear, dress straps and undergarments

Chiuri offered up her own take on streetwear pairing monochrome slogan t-shirts with full tulle skirts

The year 2016 was undoubtedly one of the most significant for the feminist movement so far, with some of the most pivotal societal, cultural and political occurrences of our time taking place in its course. This wave of feminism also swept through the fashion industry, with many

Widely brimmed mesh visors in both black and white extended the collection’s sportswear theme to accessories. Witty wordplay on dress straps subtly harked back to former creative director John Galliano’s incumbency at the house

designers vocalising their support. Of these occurrences within the world of fashion, perhaps the most consequential was the decision made by Dior in July to hire Maria Grazia Chiuri as

before the show was palpable, as guests

its first ever female artistic director, a move

and friends took their seats in a full house.

that has positioned her as, arguably, the most

Those expecting to see swathes of fabric and

powerful female figure in French fashion since

Dior’s iconic bar silhouette were in for a bit of

Coco Chanel. Chiuri’s instatement saw her step

a shake–up, as the opening look saw buzz-

away from a role at Valentino that she’d held

cutted British model Ruth Bell walk down the

for 17 years, and from one of fashion’s longest

runway in a sporty all-white ensemble, which

running creative partnerships, to stride into the

featured a fencing-style vest embroidered

spotlight on her own.

with a red heart – a look that Chiuri explained

Since its beginnings in 1946, the house of

embodied the importance and relevance of the

Christian Dior has been synonymous with an

sporting discipline’s requirement of ‘balance’

elegant and overtly feminine approach to style

for today’s woman, both when it comes to

that has redefined the way women have dressed

mind and heart as well as thought and action.

over the decades – Chiuri’s appointment had

However, Chiuri, a seasoned runway veteran,

many questioning which direction a woman’s

set an even tempo, following up her opening

creative touch would steer the brand in. The

look with a beautiful tiered tulle midi skirt, which

fashion industry got its answer on September

then continued to alternate between sharp and

30th, when Grazia staged her debut runway

soft silhouettes for the remainder of the show.

show for the house in the gardens of the

The collection’s colour palette followed this

Musée Rodin in central Paris. The sense

precedent, progressing from white to black,

of excitement and heightened anticipation

briefly punctuated by gowns in an unexpected


70

Chiuri made her stance on feminism known, displaying the title of Chimamanda Adichie’s feminist essay on t-shirts

A small bee motif was embroidered onto shoes and garments as a tribute to Hedi Slimane


Chiuri’s collection encompassed a broad range of styles and aesthetics including this corset-style tulle dress and sportswear-inspired ensemble

but welcome Dior red, before cutting back to

t-shirt emblazoned with the slogan, ‘We should all

black then softening into garments in dove grey

be feminists’ – a message the designer confirmed

and blush tones. Symbolism featured heavily –

was a direct reference to the acclaimed essay

hearts, swords, hands, astrological emblems

of the same name written by Nigerian author,

and flora and fauna, of which the most notable

Chimamanda Adichie. T-shirts bearing the term

was a bee motif that was repeatedly embroidered

‘Dio(r)evolution’ ensured everyone was aware

onto numerous ensembles and accessories – as

that change at the house of Dior was well and

an ode to Hedi Slimane’s tenure at Dior Homme.

truly underway. Sharply tailored cigarette-style

This subtle referencing is a notion Chiuri intends

pants and cropped trousers were paired with

to continue, by taking inspiration from different

padded vests and motocross style jackets – this

designers who have been a part of Dior’s rich

inclusion of masculine silhouettes was a clever

history, for each of her collections.

representation of the current societal discourse

Chiuri made her stance on feminism resoundingly

on the blurring of gendered boundaries. At the

clear, spelling it out in block letters on a white

other end of the spectrum, carefully cut blazers, leather jackets and a range of coats provided new season armour for the working woman. These gave way to maxi length column dresses,

Intricate embroidery and delicate beading brought sheer tulle dresses and gowns to life with considered pops of colour

sheer romantic gowns in frothy tulle that we’re sure to see on the red carpet this year, as well as bodycon style minidresses, proving well and truly that there’s something here for every woman. This collection not only offers plenty of timeless, high-fashion options to Dior’s existing, loyal customer base, but also throws open the doors to a whole new generation of consumer. The slogan tees, stark white sneakers, and branded bags and accessories tap solidly into street style culture and hold boundless Instaworthy appeal for the style-savvy millennial. This move towards an all-embracing inclusivity marks an exciting and meaningful new chapter for the house. The Dior revolution has begun.


72

THE RETURN

Olivier’s OVERTURE Olivier Theyskens marked his return to fashion after a twoyear hiatus, by relaunching his eponymous label.

It’s hard to believe that it’s been almost two decades since Olivier Theyskens dressed Madonna for the 1998 Oscars – a moment that catapulted the Belgian designer onto the fashion radar and led to stints at the helm of Rochas, Nina Ricci and Theory, at each of which he developed and fine-tuned his whimsical and romantic aesthetic. Since his departure from a New York posting at American label Theory in 2014, Theyskens returned not only to Paris, but also to his roots, quietly setting about relaunching his self-funded namesake brand. On September 27, without any pomp or fanfare, he staged a 25-look runway show in a Marais gallery space. The heavily romantic flourishes Theyskens formerly indulged in at Nina Ricci and Rochas were kept in check, but the Highly wearable pieces made their way down the runway, appearing in the form of ivory-hued corseted bustiers, boyfriend-style blazers drawn in at the waist with doublefront buttons, and delicately ruffled, sheer, A-line mini dresses. Functional yet incredibly feminine, the collection offers bread and butter wardrobe fundamentals with gentle, understated hints of luxury. A promising restart from an incredibly talented designer.

Words by Mary Keenan

signature elements of Theysken’s craftsmanship were present within the collection.


Words by Mary Keenan

SHIFTING FOCUS

BURBERRY

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

While the shift dress may not be the most revolutionary item of clothing, it is, however, an extremely wearable and valuable silhouette. This season, the spring/summer17 collections saw the shift reimagined to take on new proportions and fabrics. At Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Bailey chose to pump up the volume, introducing bell sleeves that flared and finished at the elbow on a dress constructed from a tapestryesque fabric. Meanwhile, Phillip Lim presented a long sleeved shift in python skin, using shiny black leather to create a contrast and define and enhance the natural curvature of the body. Embellishment in the form of zip detailing also brought an additional edge. Other designers such as Eudon Choi maintained the traditional shape of the shift, opting to play with length instead. These new season offerings will

The humble shift dress undergoes an opulent and unexpected transformation.

make an appealing addition to a summer wardrobe. For work-related or more formal occasions, layer a crisp white shirt under a sleeveless jacquard shift. For leisurely weekend brunches, consider a three-quarter or long-sleeved shift in tiered lace for easy, nonchalant chic, and dress up or down by adding heeled sandals or espadrilles.


74

THE SI L HOUETTE

ELLERY

The TransSeasonal Trench Words by Mary Keenan

As we transition into a new season, navigate the fluctuating climes with a statement-making trench.

BALMAIN


BALENCIAGA

the traditional trench shape slightly, sending out sleek, minimalist, short-sleeved varieties that felt both sporty and modern. However, the pièce de résistance would have to be the dramatic, sweeping, floor-length python skin trench that made its way down the runway at Balmain, which proved that a trench can be the most powerful part of an outfit. Ideal for spring’s unpredictable weather, a classic trench will see you through an unexpected downpour or a post-sunset temperature drop.

HERMES

Make the most of this chic outerwear option by selecting a trench constructed from a lightweight fabric, such as chiffon, silk, seersucker or silk crêpe Outerwear is usually the last thing on our minds

– styles with a shorter or cropped sleeve also make

when entering into the spring/summer season,

for a region-appropriate choice. Styling options

but this year, standout trench coats featured in

are endless: Incorporate a well-cut trench into a

many collections across all four fashion capitals.

working wardrobe by draping a black, navy or beige

At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia exaggerated

coat over a white shirt, with culottes or a pencil

proportions on an oxblood leather coat,

skirt. For a feminine approach to daytime dressing,

counterbalancing structured boxy shoulders by

consider a trench with a capelet or soft ruffle

cinching in the waist. Meanwhile, at Ellery, glossy,

detailing in shades of nude or blush, and pair with

laminated pink cotton coats evoked an air of

jeans or a streamline shift dress. When it comes to

polished punk. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski chose

after-dark attire, indulge in an exotic flight of fancy

to showcase a softer side at Hermès, cuffing the

and opt for a coat in python or crocodile skin, or

sleeves on a dusky pink trench, and playing up

sleek leather. A feminine gown juxtaposed against

proportions by adding an extra dimension with air

a more masculine style, such as an oversized

vent-like flaps. Louis Vuitton and Akris adapted

or double-breasted coat, also looks fantastic.


76

T h e Fabr i c

For The Love Of Linen Images courtesy of 100% Capri

Inspired by the beauty of the Italian island of Capri, linen-based brand 100% Capri celebrates a life well–lived.


Linen is quite often overlooked when it comes to clothing.

specialises in handcrafted linen clothing for men, women

However, for Italian businessman Antonio Aiello, the

and children, as well as a range of customisable linen

fabric was the driving force behind the creation of his

homewares and bedding. Aiello cites Capri and the vast

lifestyle brand, 100% Capri.

range of people that visit the island each year as his

Aiello never intended to launch a fashion label, but

constant source of inspiration.

a small personal project made him realise the many

Handcrafted in Italy, the clothing range is made up

capabilities of linen, which was the catalyst that led him

of refined yet easy-to-wear separates that exude an

to create a company that reflects and embodies the

air of well-dressed nonchalance. Durable, lightweight

organic, laidback lifestyle of his home on of the island

and incredibly breathable, the fabric is well-suited

of Capri through this fabric. Fast-forward 15 years,

to the Middle East’s arid climes. Aiello’s offerings for

and 100% Capri now has stores in 14 glamorous and

women epitomise jet chic: Think timeless suits in navy

far-flung locations around the globe, including Saint-

and cobalt blue that were made for Riviera lunching,

Barthélemy, Bal Harbour, Los Angeles and Cape Town,

crisp white shirts and kaftans for relaxed poolside

as well as a boutique located in Dubai’s exclusive Four

lounging, and playful summer dresses and capri-

Seasons Resort on Jumeirah Beach Road. The company

cut trousers that are perfect for summer exploring.


78

Caribbean Breeze

se a s o n al s ty le

Swirling silks and breathable mesh tanks provide the comfort you desire on your next tropical jaunt. Unwind in calming prints of vibrant hues, and let your eye fixate on sculptural jewellery that moves with you.

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

ROKSANDA


1. CÉLINE | 2. DIOR | 3. VINITA MICHAEL | 4. EMILIO PUCCI @stylebop | 5. ROBERTO COIN | 6. FENDI | 7. VALENTINO | 8. ELISABETTA FRANCHI


Lightweight White

80

Billowing whites and delicately sheer cloth drapes the body in an angelic embrace. Twirl in the direction of dainty lace dresses and polished pearl jewellery for cool, untainted style.

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

ALBERTA FERRETTI


1. CÉLINE | 2. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI | 3. DION LEE @net-aporter | 4. ELISABETTA FRANCHI | 5. MAISON MICHEL | 6. MIU MIU | 7. YOKO LONDON | 8. ROGER VIVIER


82

acc es s o ry N ot e s

Necklace, CHANEL | earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR | ring, LOUIS VUITTON

Set In Motion

Geometric shapes and sculptural forms – the ever-evolving relationship between jewellery and architecture is a convergence we’ve seen time and time again.

Words by Annie Darling


Loewe’s spring/summer17 collection features dramatic, sculptural jewellery


84 When examining Aurélie Bidermann’s gold-

known to have been in England. Dating back

slab structure coming out of the landscape is

plated clip earrings, they remind one of Big Ben’s

to the 14th Century, its spectacular solid gold

site specific, in the same way as a cascade of

grandiose tower clock and halcyon scraped

framework is generously studded with cerulean

diamonds hanging over a woman’s chest in the

spires. Meanwhile, Hervé Van der Straeten’s

sapphires, cardinal rubies, vibrant emeralds

form of a necklace is made for the site – only,

hammered block cuff resembles the work of

and brilliant diamonds. The bejewelled circlet

the site is the human body.” She adds, “Many

award-winning Danish architect Jørn Utzon,

marks a significant cornerstone in high jewellery

historical buildings can also be seen to mimic

who designed the Sydney Opera House’s iconic

design. Despite resembling the traditional

the body. For example, in Ancient Greece,

roof, which was built with vaulted concrete

fleur-de-lys, which was common among

columns took the shape of human beings.”

shells that are overlaid with enormous white

European royalty, the intricate construction

Taiwanese artisan Cindy Chao is one of the

tiles. Vionnet’s cobalt-coloured collar necklace

of hexagonal shapes and enamel openwork

most sought-after contemporary high jewellers

duplicates the sail-like structure of the Burj Al

boasts first-rate architectural qualities,

in the world. Her exquisite one-of-a-kind,

Arab, the world’s most luxurious hotel. The

which was groundbreaking for the time.

handmade creations boast breathtaking

building’s creator, British architect Tom Wright,

“There has always been a strong relationship

depth and movement using various sculptural

completed the beloved icon in 1999, after

between architecture and the human body,”

dimensions. Although Chao spent six years

becoming inspired by the traditional Arabian

reveals architectural designer Alice Dammery.

studying jewellery design in America, she

sailing vessel commonly known as the dhow.

“Both involve creating a structure to fit a specific

credits her family with her artistic talent and

Architecture has influenced graphic jewellery for

context. For example, the brief for Falling Water

subsequent success. Her father was a sculptor

centuries. The crown worn by Princess Blanche,

by Frank Lloyd Wright involved constructing

and her grandfather an architect. “Growing

daughter of King Henry IV, on her wedding

a home over a site with a waterfall – its

up with a heritage of sculptor and architect

day is the oldest surviving royal headdress

cantilevered floors and monolithic concrete

predecessors, I have always seen jewellery as miniature pieces of sculpture,” she tells MOJEH. “Organic structures, lighting, space and engineering all work together to bring out a vitality, a unique energy, in each piece.” Her signature is hand-sculpting wax, which gives gem-encrusted pieces a threedimensional effect. An advocate of titanium, which is extremely lightweight and strong, Chao constructs each creation using methods

Earrings, LOUIS VUITTON

Ring, CHANEL


that are similar to how an architect would design an installation. “My father taught me to view the world as an artist. Each perspective has a different view, and he taught me how to use my mind to will and guide my hands.” She also ensures that the jewels encompass the entire piece, including the back, which only the owner will see. “By utilising a 360-degree gem-setting technique, art jewels and diamond sculptures gleam with a lively, organic spirit,” she reveals. Chao’s

collections

feature

extreme

extravagance and are likely not what comes to mind when one thinks of architectural jewellery, which is “often considered minimalist and simple”, says Dammery. “This isn’t always the case. Perhaps people think that’s what architectural jewellery is, but in my opinion, they’re missing the point entirely.” For Dammery, it’s the design quality that differentiates a sculptural creation from an ordinary piece. “Architectural jewellery begins with the way the designer has been taught to think, as well as the engagement between the wearer and the body art. The use of volumes, textures and layers conceptually work together with the body to portray an art form.” Nonetheless, there’s a time and place for fat pearls and dripping diamonds, and during daylight hours, the majority of us opt for a subtly stylish look with barely-there adornment for extra effortless finesse. High jewellery connoisseurs such as Chao produce spectacular creations that boast the utmost in quality and sophistication. The exclusive Archi Dior collection, for example, created by Victoire de Castellane, celebrates the iconic designs of Christian Dior, who defined himself as a couturier “who respects the laws and principles of architecture”. However, jewellers that specialise in costume jewellery often also possess and utilise architectural capabilities and techniques. It’s surprisingly difficult not to make parallels. In fact, often costume jewellery is more likely to feature contemporary, futuristic designs one would more likely associate with architecture. German artisan Ute Decker’s abstract coils and Kuwaiti jeweller Alanood Al Sabah’s octagonshaped twists are particularly structural and clean-cut. This season, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Céline’s runway models sported armfuls of polished metal bangles, as well as thin stacked rings and geometric pendants. Loewe, meanwhile, unveiled a plethora of oversized sculptural bracelets and anklets that Lily cuffs encompass the arms and wrists at Loewe spring/summer17

resembled Ikebana-inspired gilded arum lilies. Tight, taut lines make for a dramatic statement


86 “My Balmain army has shed its armour,” creative director Olivier Rousteing stated in Balmain’s spring/summer17 show notes


with no frills. It’s official: Strong shapes are in.

To the uneducated eye, these minimalistic

Ralph Masri’s interlocking arabesque patterns

treasures may not look like much and are

and geometric shapes combine fervent

often passed over in favour of something

attention to detail with a strong emphasis on

more ostentatious. “Architectural jewellery

artistry and craftsmanship. “With architectural

with, for example, an art deco influence, such

jewellery, clean lines and symmetry are

as cocktail rings from the Twenties Prohibition

everything,” he argues. “The challenge is

era, may look simple, but they’re far from it,”

getting that right, so that the pieces don’t

explains Dammery. “Their bold colours and

feel disproportionate.” His designs, which

clean shapes were designed extraordinarily

are available at S*uce Rocks in The Galleria

large with the intention of them being used as

Mall, Dubai, “always have a story that reflects

conversation starters during intimate dinner

what inspires me”. Architectural jewellery, he

parties. They’re an electric blend of styles and

explains, is particularly popular in the region

there’s nothing simple about that. Combining

because Middle Eastern clients indulge in “the

elaborate zigzags, circles, rectangles, squares

idea that they are wearing a mini-sculpture”.

and other polygons is extremely complex and

Dammery strongly agrees. “For me, jewellery

takes great skill.”

pieces are just like small architectural models,

The majority of artisans have roots in traditional

which are essentially buildings.”

jewellery-making, but technology and

The long-established relationship between

computer-aided design tools are encouraging

architecture and jewellery is an examination of

architecturally-curious designers to become

mankind, or rather, human nature. Both seek to

more adventurous. 3D printing has already

demonstrate superiority over others and each,

been used extensively in fashion – especially

in their own way, deliver cultural messages

Haute Couture – and lasers can also be used

and often challenge societal norms. “We all

to cut exquisitely intricate and detailed shapes

want to be unique in a capitalist, globalised

for jewellery. Consequently, easily stackable

world, where every second person – subject to

and endlessly wearable pieces are becoming

affordability – has a pair of Swarovski earrings,”

even more versatile. The majority of Hadid’s

contends Dammery. “Nobody wants to be a

collection is reversible, while Danish-based

clone of everyone else, so perhaps this is why

jeweller Maria Black’s sleek Scandinavian

architectural jewellery has seen an increase in

designs work in multiple ways; a simple cuff

popularity and attention. It’s bespoke and this

may have a discreet flourish that can be

is an attractive quality. It’s also a stand against

detached and worn as a piercing.

the world of mass production, which we live in.”

Many high-end jewellers are now recognising

A growing number of jewellery brands are

the sophisticated woman’s penchant for fine

taking inspiration from architecture; including

jewels, and are taking this opportunity to launch

the Danish design house Georg Jensen,

sculptural collections. In most instances, the

which collaborated with the late Zaha Hadid.

influence of architecture is subtle – sometimes

A pioneer for female creatives, Hadid won

it may be pure coincidence – although in many

various awards for her visionary designs,

cases a piece will deliberately reference a

including the Wangjing Soho near Beijing,

specific building or technique. Those who

which is renowned for its three curved sails

work in these divergent industries evidently

that evoke the image of carp swimming in a

share an outlook and understanding, which

pond. The collection is heavily influenced by

suggests that there are insights to be gained

her iconic aesthetic, and features the same

by examining their convergence. Both work

fluid lines and sweeping curves as many of

within the same artistic spectrum and, if this

her buildings. Simple and sculptural, spare

season’s runways were anything to go by,

and highly sought after, each utilitarian piece

architecture has always and will continue to

is worked in polished silver.

instruct and inform the contemporary maison.

Ring, CHANEL

Earrings, CHRISTIAN DIOR

Ring, LOUIS VUITTON

Ring, CÉLINE


Dress, ROBERTO CAVALLI


In Love and in Danger Florals find favour incarnated in embellishment, print and pattern. While gowns generate an undeniable sense of femininity, black backdrops and lace-up detailing point to prowess.

Photographed by Pelle Lannefors Styled by Kelly Baldwin


Dress, CÉLINE


Kagem Mine, Zambia, the world’s largest emerald mine


Dress, BURBERRY | bra and pants, LA PERLA


Top, DIOR | Foliage Two Leaves Earrings with round and pear-shaped emeralds set in 18 karat rhodium plated white gold, FABERGÉ


Dress, ROBERTO CAVALLI


Dress, VALENTINO | shoes, DIOR


Dress, CÉLINE



Dress, BURBERRY | Emerald necklace adorned with emeralds and diamonds in 18 karat white and yellow gold, DHAMANI 1969


Dress, CÉLINE | Dissonance Earrings with an oval pink tourmaline, an oval green tourmaline, round white diamonds and a round ruby set in 18 karat white and rose gold, FABERGÉ


Dress, VALENTINO




Top and skirt, DIOR


Dress, DIOR


Model: Corinna Ingenleuf Videographer: Viktor Sloth (Video live on www.mojeh.com) Hair and makeup: Manuel Losada Styling assistant: Sophie Pasztor Location: Gemfields Kagem Emerald Mine, Zambia. With special thanks to their team.


106

Top and dress, LOUIS VUITTON


S

outher

n

Charm Denim and suede Woodstock wardrobes are brought to the now with metallic offerings. Keep fringing free-flowing, hemlines long and offer updates with sporty additions.

Photographed by Alexandre FĂŠlix Styled by Coline Peyrot


108

Shirt, VALENTINO | dress, VICTORIA BECKHAM | belt, ZANA BAYNE | skirt, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS


Jacket, DRÔME | dress, ALBERTA FERRETTI


110

Cap, shirt, dress, bag, bracelet, and shoes, BALENCIAGA


Shirt, EMANUEL UNGARO | dress, CHANEL | jacket, OFF-WHITE


112

T-shirt, DRY CLEAN ONLY | pink skirt, BALLY | cotton and wool skirt, SPORTMAX | shoes, MAISON MARGIELA


Jacket, DRY CLEAN ONLY | jumper, MAISON MARGIELA | dress, DIOR | socks, VANS | shoes, KENZO


114

Hat, SPORTMAX | dress and belt, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN


Jacket, top, trousers and shoes, GIVENCHY


116

Top, CHLOÉ | trousers, THE WHITE BRIEFS | hat, MAISON MICHEL | coat, OFF-WHITE


Coat, BOSS | scarf, BALLY | top and shoes, MAISON MARGIELA | panties, YASMINE ESLAMI


118

Dress, MARC JACOBS | belt, DRÔME | gloves, CAUSSE | shoes, MAISON MARGIELA


Model: Astrid Holler Hair stylist: Cyril LafĂ´ret Makeup artist: Aya Fujita Video: Mario Schiniotakis (Video live on www.mojeh.com) Photography assistant: Maximilien PyĂŠe


120

T h e S to ne

The Queen of

Kalahari Chopard unveils what is to be its most exceptional jewellery collection to date. A name associated with only the finest Haute Joaillerie, Chopard has become accustomed to conceptualising visionary pieces in laudable style. Their newest conquest has captivated us once again, beautifully highlighting the maison’s expert skill and creative ingenuity. What once lay veiled beneath untouched earth, the diamond known as The Queen of Kalahari, began its incredible journey at the Karowe Mine in Botswana. “This is a truly exceptional stone, but we did not wish to treat it as a mere trophy. Instead, we wanted to prepare it for a destiny worthy of its stature,” explained co-president Caroline Scheufele. Enamoured by its beauty, Scheufele fashioned 23 individually unique diamonds out of the impressive 342-carat stone. These new fragments have been meticulously sculpted to create a unique assortment known as The Garden of Kalahari – a premium range with multiple cut variations (cushion, brilliant, heart, emerald and pear) captivating even the most contrary of tastes. Inspiring formations and enthralling light refractions

Words by Sophie Pasztor

entwine in a poetic scene, as six exclusive jewellery models are created.


Da Vinci

Degendered Recent years have seen haute horology attempting to woo women with increasingly advanced complications. As IWC launches its latest line dedicated to females, we explore why this is more than just a trend in time.

Top to bottom: Lady’s Wristwatch (1958), IWC’s smallest-ever ladies’ watch movement, the 431 calibre, was unveiled in 1954 Savonette Lady’s Pocket Watch (1909), From around 1900 onwards, women wore watches as brooches or pendants hung around the neck. IWC offered a variety of lavishly embellished cases


122

Watc h F o c u s

“We are not a brand of fairy tales and flowers,”

says Seyffer on the titanium-based collection.

says IWC’s creative director, Christian Knoop.

Another high point of the Eighties was the

But, then again, that’s not what modern

widely popular Da Vinci Lady Chronograph

women want. December 2016 saw the

(1988). In its latest collection, IWC revisits

watchmakers reveal a new direction aimed

the iconic design as they launch the first Da

closely at females, a segment that Knoop

Vinci update since 2007, with 80 per cent of

reveals accounts for a sizable portion of the

the references dedicated to women.

watch market today. In horology, performance

Politically, socially and culturally, much has

and movements have previously been an

changed for women since the popularity of

afterthought for females. Bejeweled and

the decorative timepieces at the turn of the

decorative designs compensated for scaled-

20th century. Before launching the Da Vinci

down mechanisms that could not compete

update designed to woo women back to

with the functionality of men’s pieces, but

the brand, IWC set about compiling its own

IWC’s latest revelation sees the majority of

on-the-ground research, with Knoop noting

the brand’s new introductions with automatic

that it has become increasingly common

movements, aimed at women.

for women to purchase men’s watches in

The watchmakers controversially marketed

the larger sizes. “We always developed our

themselves as a brand for men in 2007,

collections based on our history and our own

with a highly targeted ad campaign that ruffled feathers amongst females – yet, the horologists have a long lineage in women’s watches that spans as far back as the 1870s. The 1909 Savonnette Lady’s Pocket Watch is characteristic of the decadent timepieces that aimed to tap into feminine desires. At this time, women would wear their watches as jewellery in the form of brooches or Ingenieur-Lady SL Quartz (1984) In the late 1970s, IWC began to design and manufacture its own cases, a revolutionary move for the time, for instance using titanium for both men‘s and women’s watches

pendants; they were lavishly adorned with ornate details, patterns taken from the Art Nouveau movement and precious gems. “In the 1920s, the market for women’s wristwatches was becoming more and more important,” says David Seyffer, Curator at IWC Museum. “For the IWC portfolio, around one quarter were women’s watches.” Tendencies towards decorative timepieces for women continued well into the Fifties, with their Lady’s Wristwatch (1958) offering women the company’s smallest-ever watch movement in 18ct gold with a diamond bezel. “The challenge on the development of women’s wristwatch movements was to make them run well and accurately, but on a very small scale,” says Seyffer. By the Seventies, one third of IWC’s watches were sold to women, but things took a downward turn when the price of gold started to increase. “To be honest, during the quartz crisis of the Seventies, the sales of women’s watches to the Middle East saved the company,” Seyffer explains. But, when the price of gold shot up during that decade, products in Swiss Francs became too costly on the production of female watches that were typically made from precious materials. “Generally, gold was not sellable, so this was a problem. But we kept up with women’s

Da Vinci Lady Chronograph (2000) Following the 1988 launch the Da Vinci Lady Chronograph became one of IWC’s most successful watches for women

watches – for example, the Porsche design of the Eighties was a sports line for women,”

Images courtesy of IWC

for the world market; this in turn had an impact


vision of the brand,” says Knoop. “We had to

decorative elements, compared to the purity

some posed a challenge as they involved

find an IWC way to speak to women, to have

of the Portofino line – it easily translates into

a lot of technical detail that was not initially

watches that combine the purity and clean

a collection that speaks to females. Reflecting

designed for smaller wrists. The moveable

lines of the brand with something that would

the current preference for pared-back styles,

lugs, which only appear within the Da Vinci

speak to women in terms of size, aesthetics

the latest incarnation of the Da Vinci steps

collection, give the watch a close fit that is

and ergonomics,” he continues.

back from the heavy and lavish look we

especially important for the female buyer.

The Da Vinci line has been around since 1969,

associate with the Eighties, but reveals the

More than a trend towards masculinity,

taking its inspiration from the revolutionary

clean lines of the classic round face once

IWC is the latest in a host of horologists to

artist and inventor, whose passion was the

more, “We wanted to honour the details,

have shaken up what had become a stale

precise measurement of time. “Leonardo

but not make the watch look too opulent,”

archetype for female timepieces. Brands

was obsessed with beauty, harmony and

says Knoop. Da Vinci’s passion for beauty in

like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Christophe

aesthetics,” says Knoop. “Part of his work

pattern is also apparent in use of the Flower

Claret are just a few of the others to join

was to explore the formula that would link

of Life, a revered symbol of creation and a

IWC in offering women’s watches that are

mathematics, science and beauty. This

geometrical figure, which is engraved on the

more than just a pretty face, their tech-

search is something that especially speaks to

casebacks of the new models.

heavy timepieces acknowledging that

women and became an overarching concept

Consideration and adaptation to the female

complications like chronographs, calendars

for the communication of the product.”

form is apparent throughout. Although many

and moon-phase indicators for females

The Da Vinci collection is known for its

of the original design codes remain intact,

have become a fixture, rather than a fad.

DA VINCI AUTOMATIC 36 (2017) The latest incarnation comes in 18 karat red gold with 54 diamonds or simple and sophisticated stainless steel


124

T h e T r end

Handheld The Trend: Ornamental jewellery switches gears this season with the resurgence of the hand harness. Ear cuffs were in abundance last year, and with a bountiful selection of unique styles to choose from, it would be fair to assume that you would have acquired one, if not more. But, this time round, focus has been placed on our hands. What began as a piece of ornamental jewellery in India has since evolved into this season’s biggest must-have. The hand harness is a hybrid between a bracelet and ring, gracefully decorating the hand like a glamorous piece of body armour. This ornate accessory comes in two distinctive varieties, the first taking on bohemian characteristics, redesign embraces architectural elements to elegantly sculpt the hand. Affluently embellished pieces or ones with detailed frameworks should be met with a refined wardrobe, but unassuming styles will tactfully elevate daytime prints or provide a thoughtful addition to your eveningwear.

Left to right: YOKO LONDON | YEPREM @net-a-porter

Words by Sophie Pasztor

with lax chains that best mimic those found in ancient India; meanwhile, the contemporary


Ribbons &

Romance Doe-eyed dials in blushing pink and white mother-of-pearl complete La D de Dior Satine’s latest ribbon-inspired timepieces.

February is the long-awaited month of romance. For some, this means a resplendent bouquet of full-figured roses, and for others, a particularly spectacular piece of diamond-studded jewellery, hopefully followed by a starry-eyed dinner for two in the magnificent mountains surrounding Lake Geneva. La D de Dior Satine’s latest three timepieces are quintessential to the latter, and come in a new, slightly larger 36mm case size, which playfully toys with the collection’s delicate mix of the masculine and feminine. The original La D de Dior Satine watch was unveiled in 2003 for the flirtatious woman who likes to borrow her man’s watch, so that, according to the Maison, “She always thinks about him.” Inspired by the distinct aesthetic of Seventies classics, the collection embodies the spirit of Christian Dior himself, as well as his passion for striking colour and bold creativity. Surprisingly suitable for those with a minimalist palette, La D de Dior Satine is modestly embellished and handsomely delivers Old World elegance in spades. Referencing the role of ribbon in Dior’s couture creations, each piece features a Milanese mesh bracelet that sparkles with each flick of the wrist. This gentle shimmer of woven metal alludes to smooth satin, and a concluding hand-polish results in a distinctive shine that’ll pair perfectly with your Cinderella-blue, crystalencrusted heels and metallic shadow. Various models feature delicate dials in ivory, midnight-black and blushing pink, as well as bezels, crowns and buckles that are all set with scintillating diamonds. Two polished, dainty Dauphine hands, powered by a quartz movement and water-resistant to 30 metres, are not only elegant and timeless, but demonstrate the ultimate in Swiss watch manufacturing, for the ribbon has been part of the label’s DNA since its inception. Christian Dior himself wrote in his Little Dictionary of Fashion in 1954, “The little ribbon bow was always one of the most prized of women’s accessories.”


126

Compiled by Sophie Pasztor

HIGH NOTES

ALBERTA FERRETTI


1 2

3 4

Dark Desires There is a mystical mood permeating through the latest fine jewellery offerings of expert artisans. Obscure colour varieties, such as Roberto Coin’s rose gold necklace with diamonds, black jade and green agate, pave the way for originality and sophistication.

1. CARTIER | 2. ROBERTO COIN | 3. PASQUALE BRUNI | 4. SUTRA | 5. JACOB & CO

5


128

F i n e J ew ellery

Empowered P

i

e

c

e

s

From precious stones that transcend into daywear to personal purchases that champion self-love, we reveal how the modern woman rewrites the rules when it comes to her jewellery.

Ballon Blanc de Cartier women’s watch


Codes of Colour, photographed by Ziga Mihelcic, MOJEH Jewellery & Watch Book 03


130

Top: 18 karat rose gold and coloured sapphire stackable rings Marquise Rings by Bea Millen Right: Dia handmade rings by Bil Arabi

My first significant jewellery purchase marked a special occasion: I had just turned 18 and used the money I saved whilst studying to travel to New York. Like many young women of a similar age, I walked into Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue, ready to collect my coveted charm bracelet, gleaming in 18-karat yellow-gold. After that, each time I took a special trip, I would ceremoniously add a new charm from a new city, a shining symbol solidifying the memory of my journey. My story is typical of my generation, the working women who refuse to wait. For centuries, the gift-giving traditions surrounding jewels have focused upon a female receiving her most significant pieces from her significant other, but today, our adornments communicate a different code. “We have seen a shift of late towards selfpurchase,” says Rupak Sen, Gemfields’ Director of Marketing and Sales for Asia and the Middle East. “Women are becoming more self-sufficient and independent. These days, many women are waiting much longer to get married, prioritising their careers; therefore, they are more likely to treat themselves to a new piece of jewellery rather than waiting to be gifted.” From

engagement

to

anniversary,

our

relationships do, of course, still play a prominent role in our jewellery practices, but according to De Beers, millennial women spent around $26 billion on diamond jewellery in 2015, with women in China and India leading the way, followed by the US and Japan. The reasons for this global shift can be attributed to changes in societal structure as Sen suggests, but for pieces like my own charm bracelet, there’s more to it than a woman simply replicating a man’s role.


“New traditions are coming into play,” says

message for self-love. A product of passion by

and more popular, so we are seeing a lot of

Danielle Yadegar of Los Angeles-based jewellery

Melody Godfred and Samira Far, their diamond

designers working precious materials like gold

brand, Bea Millen. “I think custom jewellery has

pinky rings are intended to communicate a

and diamonds into their designs, thus increasing

really created this market. It allows for us to

new tradition. reminding women to respect and

the price of purchases,” says Nadine Kanso of Bil

give a new voice to different values, ideas, and

commit to themselves. Believing that the pinky

Arabi. who has also seen an increase in women

messages in a way that has never been possible

as the ‘forgotten finger’, their rings remind us

looking to her brand for individualised pieces.

before.” Susana Martins of Dubai’s fine jewellery

to cherish the parts of us that we often forget

“Personalisation is becoming a key determining

workshop, The Jewel Teller, is in agreement,

to celebrate. “We wanted it to mean something

factor. We see a lot of our customers buying

noticing that her typical female customer visits

to the world when a woman is spotted with a

pieces for their friends and family, customised to

alone and is looking to build her own collection.

ring on her pinky,” says Far, “The same way you

their individual preferences.” As a jeweller, Kanso

“I help by listening to their ideas and questions,

would know what it means if you see a woman

admittedly finds it difficult to nominate a favourite

guiding them towards the piece that is best

wearing a ring on her left ring finger.”

piece, yet the vintage heart given to her by her

suited to them,” she says. And, in line with

Worn as symbol of career advancement or

mother remains at the top of her list. As Kanso

recent tastes towards customised clothing and

to signify a special date, the women’s luxury

suggests, our most precious pieces are often

accessories, millennial women are transforming

watch market is currently brimming. A new

those given to women by women, with inherited

their jewellery pieces into items of fashion. In

lease of technology-driven designs from the

jewellery bridging the gap between generations.

2016, we wore chokers as a statement of power.

likes of Cartier and Harry Winston offer advanced

Tastes and traditions may have altered, as

while societal tendencies towards spirituality

auto-motions, while brands across the board

they always do, but the profound and lasting

shaped our selection of precious stones, with

are rapidly expanding their portfolio to appeal

impact of the right piece of jewellery prevails.

a rise in indie jewellery designers like Wwake

to the increase in female buyers. But now,

Whether working hard to harbor the funds for

offering opal adorned designs inspired by art.

women purchase their timepieces not only for

our next investment watch, using demi-fine

Historically, we associate high jewellery at a high

pleasure or to mark a proud moment – they

jewels to define our daywear, or marking out our

cost with the purchase of precious stones. But,

are also looking to high jewellery and watches

seminal moments one charm at a time, we are

rather than put all their capital into key pieces that

as investments that stand the test of time.

transforming the traditions that once surrounded

pack a punch, as was the tradition with the prolific

“Women investing in jewellery is becoming more

our jewellery and making them our own.

collectors of the past, women today are looking to buy more items at less expense, incorporating precious stones into their day-to-day wear, a movement solidified when Net-a-Porter opened their demi-fine jewellery segment in October 2016. Today’s woman can just as easily be found working the gold and diamond, stackable bracelets of Suzanne Kalan into her day-to-day wardrobe as she can working closely with her preferred jeweller, to create her own, unorthodox piece – a self-gift that no man can give. Reclaiming jewellery into the realm of female empowerment, brands like Fred + Far have used women’s self-bought diamonds as their

The Self Love Pinky Ring by Fred + Far


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The Supplement: The Super Green Molecule, Fountain | The Benefits: Enhancing energy levels from within, this ingestible formulation promises to aid weight management and internal tissue hydration for an outer glow that radiates. The drink is packed with health-enhancing ingredients like chlorophyll, kelp and hyaluronic acid, and blended with over 40 minerals, 16 amino acids and 11 vitamins.

The Cream: Charlotte’s Magic Cream, Charlotte Tilbury | The Benefits: Coveted by celebrities and catwalk models alike, Charlotte’s award-winning secret formula promises a plump and dewy complexion. The blend of patented ingredients

includes

BioNymph

Peptide Complex to minimise wrinkles and boost collagen, floral extracts, and a hyaluronic acid booster to lift and flood the skin with moisture.

Hyaluronic Acid Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Cream and Fountain’s green juice both have something in common: hyaluronic acid. It’s the type of ingredient you know you need in your skincare armory, but you’re not quite sure why. Let us explain. The ingredient that typically inhabits the moisturising and hydrating shelf is already found in our own skin. It’s a glycosaminoglycan, meaning a molecule composed partly of sugars that occur naturally in skin’s structure and help to lubricate your joints. Produced synthetically for skincare, hyaluronic acid boasts a bounty of benefits. It’s known for its ability to retain a lot of moisture without clogging pores, which is why it’s included in many hydrating serums, creams, and is even found in beautifying drinks. It also plumps the skin, making it an ideal ingredient for anti-aging formulations. Interestingly, hyaluronic acid is also found in many dermal fillers as it’s highly compatible with the human body. Here, we tick off the three hyaluronic acid-filled products that amp up the moisture.

Dare to Blush, photographed by Nicolas Menu, MOJEH Issue 34

Ingredient Insight:

The Serum: Celestial Black Diamond Serum, 111SKIN | The Benefits: A potent and luxurious complex that penetrates deep into the skin, the label’s patented NAC Y² formula is infused with arbutin and hyaluronic acid to strengthen skin, stimulate cell regeneration and target fine lines and wrinkles. Apply at night to reap the anti-aging benefits and protect against environmental stressors.


Dare to blush with multi-hued pink, rose and peach pigments that offer an ode to femininity. This month, colour is key and soft, flushed cheeks are a must.

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

Clockwise from top: Shimmer Brick Compact – Rose, BOBBI BROWN | Coco Code Blush Harmony, CHANEL | Cheek Colour Quad, LAURA MERCIER


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Top: Coral swept eyes took centre stage at Kenzo SS17

Left: Anna Sui SS17 lined the eyes with a deep dusty pink

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An eye colour trend that’s both bold and beautiful, we take on the pinks and peaches of SS17.


This season, we update autumn/winter’s rich ruby hues, championed by the likes of Chanel, with eye makeup that’s fresh fuchsia pink or soft peach. While red and pink shades have previously come under much scrutiny when it comes to our eyes, the catwalks of SS17 communicated a bold approach to the eye through flashes of vibrant coral at Kenzo, while Anna Sui went for full lid coverage in dusky, metallic pink, sealed

Lily Collins gives us a lesson in pastel pink with a simple lick of mascara to complete the look

with a lick of mascara. Celebrities have led the way in promoting a wearable take on this trend, with the likes of Lily Collins recently using a dusting of light pastel pink to soften a statement ruby lip, while Olivia Culpo’s Golden Globes look drew together rich terracotta and peachy undertones with a deep nude lip. For high octane colour, opt for Kat Von D’s Metal Crush shadows or for a softer approach with a wide variety of choices, go to Too Faced’s scented Sweet Peach palette that offers no less that 18 shades. Chanel’s Coco Codes SS17 pink/peach eye shadow palette is ideal for daywear.

Base: Less is more when it comes to such a statement look. Foundation should offer coverage without being too heavy or chalky. Lightly bronze the cheeks for a fresh feel and apply highlighter sparingly to the apples of the cheeks.

Eyes: When incorporating pink or peach shades into your beauty look, steer clear of the waterline to avoid an irritated appearance; instead, open the eye up with a lick of black liquid liner and apply a dusting of your chosen shade of pink. Rich jewel colours suit darker skin tones, while pastels and peaches work will with fair.

Lips: The old rules about paring down the lips to balance a statement eye have been rewritten this season – there really is no right or wrong answer. Kenzo upped high impact coral eyes with an even brighter, tangerine glossy lip, while Tadashi Shoji sent their models out with a wet look popping pink lid defined by blue liner and a lightly flushed, mattified lip. As we witnessed on the red carpet, don’t be afraid to match your lip shade to your eye colour.

Tadashi Shoji’s SS17 luminous wetlook lids were lined inside with bright blue


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Regal Respites At the foothills of the Himalayas, a focus on renewed health takes precedence as we set out on a path of peace and prosperity. If serenity could be captured in just one visual, it would be

anything from weight loss and fitness to detox or self-realisation.

found at the foothills of the Himalaya mountains in the North of

Like many guests hailing from the Middle East and taking time out

India, hovering just above the Ganges river valley and amidst

from overwhelming work schedules and busy city life, rejuvenation

a spirited forest of Sal. This is where the Maharaja’s Palace

was key; the first step was to identify our doshas – vata, pitta

Estate sits across 100 acres – regal and divine in both its

or kapha – an age-old practice that helps recognise the body’s

exterior and interiors – which has since 2001 dedicated its

needs, from food types to environment and sleep patterns.

land, heart and soul to Ananda, a destination spa committed

The schedule for the days ahead then utilises each of Ananda’s

to healing and holistic health.

signature elements: Yoga taught by a world-class instructor

The drive up to the spa is relaxing in itself. Miles of the foothills

underneath the Maharaja’s gold-studded ceiling, spa treatments

are covered on a steep ascent through winding roads framed

that reach far below the skin’s surface and fight to detoxify and

by the stately forest. Silence takes over and the air is thick with

reset the body’s organs, golf played across the impeccable palace

freshness. The palace finally emerges as a stately and unassuming

gardens, and meals carefully curated to re-balance the body and

beauty – opulent but not outlandish, storied but without arrogance.

mind. Meshed with the harmonious and almost angelic nature of

For guests, including the likes of Prince William and Princess Kate,

the resort, every step of the way is dedicated to mindfulness and

the Palace welcomes them in for daily meditation classes and

self-awareness. Guests are encouraged to discuss and debate

afternoon tea throughout the duration of their stay.

philosophical readings and beliefs, while respecting each other’s

On arrival, we meet with a dedicated practitioner who listens

privacy and silence. Practices learnt at Ananda enable you to

to our goals and thereafter, builds a bespoke programme to

continue your wellness journey once away from the Himalayas,

be followed throughout the stay and after. Focuses can fall on

as lessons learnt live on in both body and mind long after.


Built in main on key Ayurvedic principles, the cuisine here is free from anything artificial and stays close to a vegan way of life. Chefs are on hand to consult and teach guests key values, enabling them to continue their Ananda diets at home.

From Hatha and Kriya to Pranayama, various practices of yoga and meditation are available and bespoke schedules are specially curated to tackle individual ailments and goals. The clean air and environment helps push you further in your practice.

Rooms look out over the golf course, Palace gardens and the spiritual city of Rishikesh. The small resort, housing only 70 rooms, is designed with colonial hill architecture in mind and offers various meditative spots for isolated practice.


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Main Image courtesy of Jelle Mul. Katayoun Khosrowyar and Mona Seraji photographed in Tehran, Iran by Benoit Gonceru and Hamid Niksoleymani. Farnaz Esmaeilzadeh photographed in Zanjan by Hamid Niksoleymani

At the turn of the millennium, the international image of professional sportswomen in Iran was simply not there – but, times are changing. We applaud three women that have overcome all odds to redefine the rules.

Dr Easkey Britton is said to be the first woman to openly surf in Iran


Words by Laura Beaney

In Hawaii, surfing is known as the ‘Sport of Kings’, a pastime once reserved for male royalty and the ruling classes. And historically, from California to Cornwall and Sydney, the waters have been male-infested, for this reason surfing in Iran is unique. “It was women who started surfing here,” enthuses Dr Easkey Britton, the Irish pro surfer who was one of the first to practice her sport in Iran. “I was blown away by their passion and commitment and how popular outdoor action and lifestyle sports are for young women – wakeboarding, snowboarding, skateboarding and even triathlons!” Named after a famous wave break in her home country, Dr Britton comes from a long line of surf legends. In the Sixties, her grandmother returned to Ireland from Malibu with two surfboards in tow; her five sons, including Dr Britton’s father, took to the waves, becoming some of the first pioneers to surf in Ireland. A PhD student winding down after an intense period of competitive surfing, curiosity and an unshakable desire for adventure led Dr Britton to Iran’s quiet coastal city of Chabahar, back in 2010. “My sponsors at the time didn’t support me – no opportunity to shoot next season’s summer range,” she jokes. “More seriously, I think it was fear of what Iran represented, and a lack of belief in what was possible.” Discovering Iran through the eyes of an outsider, Dr Britton soon observed that the women she encountered were a formidable force, ready for the sense of freedom associated with surfing. “Every time I go to Iran, I’m stripped of any assumptions I might still be carrying,” she admits. “There’s Mona Seraji and Setareh Mazhari, who are both accomplished snowboarders – Mona is the first female snowboard instructor in Iran. Shahla Yasini, one of the first women I taught to surf, is also a professionally trained diver and Shirin Gerami is Iran’s first female triathlete.” There are, of course conflicts that come with the movement required for sport and the mandatory modest dress code in Iran, but aspiring regional designers and the international community have been making steps to accommodate this market. “It has been a challenge getting practical, full-body surf wear,” admits Dr Britton, who recently collaborated with design students at the University of Falmouth to create a modest surf-kit for women. “We have also collaborated with Capsters, who have donated their swim hijabs for the women’s surf workshops and Salt Gypsy, who design surf leggings.” Surfing is both a solo and group sport, but in Iran, the benefits did not stop with the individual – Dr Britton’s protégées are now teaching others. Feeding back into their communities, Seraji started the We Surf In Iran community, a foundation that develops surfing in Baluchistan and aims to create a cross-cultural exchange, while Mazhari is the woman behind Riders Of Hope, a non-profit organisation that supports positive acts surrounding extreme sports, like beach and mountain cleanups. “This has been one of the most powerful outcomes,” smiles Dr Britton, a regular keynote speaker on topics surrounding the environment and society. There are regular, self-organised beach cleanups… it shows how our relationship with our environment changes through a positive experience (like surfing); we form a stronger, emotional connection and want to take action.” Much has changed since the story of the first female surfers in Iran. And, while the playing field is not yet even – Iran held its first ever marathon in 2016, but females were excluded – these women have managed to overcome not only gender, but also sartorial and cultural challenges to demonstrate strength, finesse and a desire to excel. A few years ago, female competitors – let alone professional ones – were practically unheard of in the region, which makes the success stories of its leaders all the more poignant. Here, we celebrate the three women whose engagement and affinity with the sporting world has helped to transform the image of Persian women in football, snowboarding and rock-climbing, providing inspiration for the next generation of accomplished females.


Pro climber Farnaz Esmaeilzadeh divides her time between her mountainous city of Zanjan and Victoria in Canada where she trains

Solo Speed – Farnaz Esmaeilzadeh

140

Sixty-six kilometres northeast of Tehran lies the snowcapped

“Growing up in an athletic family and having mountaineers

Mount Damavand, the highest peak in the Middle East.

as parents, my rock climbing motivations were ignited,”

Steeped in folklore and Persian mythology, Iran’s rugged

enthuses Farnaz Esmaeilzadeh, an international speed-

mountain terrain is a far cry from the overpopulated and

climbing medalist who at 27 already holds a handful

exposed tourist trails that dominate the rest of Asia.

of international awards, and most recently a bronze in

In close proximity to the capital, Iran’s ranges are also

the Asian Championships. As a child in the arid city of

highly accessible, the routes calling to rock climbers,

Zanjan, Esmaeilzadeh spent her early years climbing the

trekkers and tourists alike with operators like Persian

small wall set up in the back of her family’s garden, and

Pursuits opening Iran’s mountains up to an international

so began her passion for the world of climbing. Before

audience. Adventure tourism in Iran has, of course,

long, this repetition grew tiresome and her climbing wall

been gaining traction thanks to international sanctions

made way for the larger rocks that dominate her city.

being lifted, but rock-climbing has ranked as one of the

Wasting little time, by the age of 13 she had moved

most popular sports among its women for many years.

to the indoor climbing centers that had crept into the


community, assembling basic techniques from her brother,

A recurrent criticism amongst Persian sportswomen is

Farshad, who was already a climber. “The facilities were so

their barely mediated image. It’s easy to see why many

primitive,” she recalls, “When I was younger, I exercised

don’t take up sport when the public image of Iranian

alone without a suitable wall or gym to practice in.”

sportswomen has been non-existent until recently. Times

In the mountains of Iran, men and women climb together,

are changing, albeit slowly, facilities are improving and

reaching heights beyond those of the morality police. But,

international exposure offers a chance for sponsorship and

back in the cities, separation continues. “I never had a

recognition. Esmaeilzadeh works at a grassroots level to

coach at a professional level,” says Esmaeilzadeh, who

offer guidance to the aspiring climbers in her community.

admittedly never doubted her abilities. “I worked on my

“I train women in my home city in various age categories.

own weakness points, based on my own experiences.”

When I travel to different countries for my own training I

Females like the self-taught Esmaeilzadeh are forbidden

send them workout plans,” she says. “I’m proud of having

from training with male coaches, who often hold the

national champions in the toddler and teenage categories,

highest credentials; centre training hours for women are

including an Asian youth medalist.”

also limited. And, when she’s not training, Esmaeilzadeh

Tackling a sport that often evokes solitude and without

works with a tailor to create her own climbing attire,

a suitable coach or training partner, Esmaeilzadeh’s

required to fall in line with government regulations. Yet,

tireless work ethic has seen her make the difficult

despite these hurdles, her self-belief and commitment

breakthrough to the international sports arena, gaining

is unwavering. In 2015, Esmaeilzadeh held a world

the recognition she knew she deserved. “I think that facing

ranking of 7th and 2016 saw her take second place at

difficulties and hardness makes you stronger,” she says.

the Canadian championships.

“I believe that the world is granted to the hardworking.”


Goals For Girls – Katayoun Khosrowyar

142


Iranian-American Katayoun Khosrowyar takes to the pitch for the Iran vs. Vietnam women’s match

“I had the chance to do something historic,” recalls Katayoun Khosrowyar, who has been an avid fan of football since the age of six. A restless child, who grew up in the States, she was prescribed football by her pro-swimmer father as a means to drain her endless energy. After the first game she was hooked, becoming increasingly vocal about her dreams of joining a national team as she grew up. During the summer of 2005, Khosrowyar discovered that she would be travelling to Iran for the first time, a chance to revisit her Iranian-Azeri roots and connect with her culture. “In order to stay in shape, I decided to train with a local indoor football (futsal) team. After two weeks of training, I was recruited by the First Women’s Football Team coach for the national team,” she smiles. At 17, the move would require Khosrowyar to take a difficult decision. Not only would she be abandoning her life and plans for university studies in the US, she would also have to stay in a country she hardly knew and where she couldn’t speak the language. There was also a condition attached by her family – if Khosrowyar were to stay and train, she would have to complete her education, which would involve a cross-continent commute between Tehran and Birmingham. Despite these drawbacks, she had the opportunity to be a part of something groundbreaking, as the previous generation of Iranian women were not allowed

awareness for hijabi women who wish to play sport.”

to compete professionally. Her answer was a firm ‘yes’.

A lesson in speaking up for your cause, the campaign

“After the National Team started, we trained for just two

prompted a change and two years later, the ban was

months before entering our first tournament, the Asian

lifted. Rather than fall victim to the system, Khosrowyar

Western Games in Jordan,” she recalls. “Several officials

went on to speak prolifically about female development

told us not to go and embarrass ourselves, but we ended

and empowerment in Iran, with appearances at TEDx and

up winning all our games and reaching the finals.” Things

the The Chicago Council on Global Affairs, a think-tank

took a downward turn, however, when, at the last moment,

to open discourse on world issues.

her team was disqualified from the London 2012 Olympics.

Insistent that sport is a tool to ease tensions between

Despite the support she received from her family and

religion and society, today she coaches an Under

community, Khosrowyar was penalised by FIFA’s hijab

14s girls team and is the first Iranian woman to hold

ban, a restriction that denied many women the chance

a FIFA A licence for coaching, ensuring that the next

to play professionally. “I took that moment personally,”

generation of female footballers from her country can

insists Khosrowyar, who quickly became a spokesperson

make it to the Olympics without discrimination. “Women

on the matter. “Along with the other women in the region,

always want to be respected,” Khosrowyar insists. “Not

we launched ‘Let Us Play’, a global campaign to create

just as women in Iran, but as professional athletes”.


Snow To Sea – Mona Seraji

144 Before she took to the waves with Dr Britton, Mona Seraji

at the age of 15 when, by chance, her skis fell from

was a proficient snowboarder. “When I first strapped my

her sister’s car, rendering them unusable. Recalling a

feet onto the board, I felt like I had found a missing part

shop selling snowboards, Seraji took a chance on a new

of my body,” she smiles. A favourite pastime amongst

direction and never looked back.

Iranians, skiing has been a definitive part of Persian culture

Dividing her time between the three main resorts

since 1938. And today, superb hotels like Shemshak’s

surrounding Tehran – Shemshak, Darbandsar and Dizin

newly opened and architecturally inspired Barin and

– Seraji’s skills on the snow quickly garnered attention.

Iran’s initiation of the World Alpine Skiing and World

The self-belief demonstrated by Persian sportswomen

Para Snowboard Competitions solidify the importance

is a palpable force, but when Seraji made the decision

of winter sports for the country.

to abandon her career as a designer, she was met

From the age of eight, you could find Seraji spending

with a certain level of objection form those around

her weekends on the slopes with her mother. “I was

her. “Initially, my family disagreed with me trying to

immediately in love with the snow and mountains,” she

snowboard as a profession,” she recounts. “Such a

recalls. Her first experience of snowboarding came later

thing was not common back in those days.” But, in


Mona made history as the first person from the Middle East to compete in the Freeride World Qualifier in Switzerland

time, her success helped to alleviate those concerns.

When Dr Britton arrived, she was an ideal candidate to be

“Now, my parents are supporting me to the fullest. They

one of the first to join her on the waves. “Surfing in my own

have begun to believe that there are different ways to

country just six months after spinal surgery felt amazing,”

be successful in life,” she shares.

she enthuses. “It helped me to regain my courage.”

Seraji started her year as the first person from the Middle

Challenging any objective that comes in her way, Seraji

East to compete in the Freeride World Qualifier, an

continues to advocate the spirit of adventure to young

astonishing feat in itself, but made all the more remarkable

Iranian women. And, amidst her high-octane schedule

considering the sizable injury she sustained in 2013. “I

running the numerous community-driven projects

was injured over-shooting a kicker on the Dizin Ski Slope,

that spun from her surfing encounter, perfecting her

fooling around with my friends,” she recalls. “It left me

sport, not to mention making a living as a snowboard

with a broken spine and now I’ll have two metal rods in

instructor, Seraji’s relentless energy has given her a

my spine forever.” But, like all twists of fate, Seraji’s injury

pivotal role amongst the remarkable Persian women,

opened her up to another new opportunity and sport.

defining the image of the powerful sportswoman in Iran.


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Edit E l - A s h m aw i ’ s

Sharing artistic influences and the secret to spaghetti bolognese with a kick, we look at the colourful world of Opera Gallery curator and visual artist, Perry El-Ashmawi.

Dubai Dining Spot: Little Black Door at the Conrad. Very cool vibe, elegant interiors, and most definitely great food! | Grab A Juice: Peanut Heaven smoothie from Joga, DIFC, Dubai | Shop For Unusual Clothing: All Saints – they have the most interesting cuts | Seek Inspiration: The street art you find on Brick Lane in London | Vacation Destination: Barcelona, Spain – such an artistic city | Exercise Class: Real Pilates, Palm Strip Mall Jumeirah. Their Pilates Barre workout is always fun, a good mix of cardio and toning | Most Treasured Possession: My charm necklace from Azza Fahmy jewellery. I’m always wearing it | Artistic Influence: British contemporary artist, Joe Black | Book To Reread: Invisible Cities, by Italo Calvino. It’s based on short stories of different fictional cities, where the author plays on design inspirations and mystical destinations | Cheat Meal: Elevation Burger, sinfully good | Dish To Cook: Pasta Bolognese. Simple, but you can make it special by adding fresh herbs, and making the sauce from scratch | Natural Beauty Hack: Argan oil keeps your hair soft and shiny | Lipstick Shade: Lolita Everlasting Liquid Lipstick, from Kat Von D. I always carry it in my purse | Travel Tip: Travel light, the best shopping happens on your travels | Lasting Memory: pet dog. I was only eight years old, and I still remember it so vividly | The Best Way To Start The Day: The smell of coffee in the morning always puts a smile on my face | The Best Piece Of Advice: Have eyes that see the best, a heart that forgives the worst, and a mind that forgets the bad | Bucket List For 2017: Brazil! I really want to explore that part of the world

Images courtesy of Perry El-Ashmawi

When my father surprised me with my first


Me, My Selfie and I

El-Ashmawi takes her inspiration from innovative styles of contemporary urban art, such as graphic and graffiti illustrations


148

Photographed by Rhys Simpson-Hopkins, styled by Sophie Pasztor

F i n al N ote

Disregard your inhibitions for the month of February and confidently rock explicit love motifs. Have fun with accessorising and look to items like Saint Laurent’s overtly affectionate shoes with bold lettering.

Clockwise from the top: JIMMY CHOO | GUCCI | DOLCE&GABBANA | SAINT LAURENT




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