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A/W 16 FRONT COVER
LOOKBOOK
“Today, the idea of a bunch people sitting in a room and deciding what the colours are going to be in two years’ time or what materials are going to be used in three years’ time is a complete nonsense,” said Marc Worth. In 1997, Worth and his brother Julian founded Worth Global Style Network (WGSN), the trend-forecasting service whose clients today include Coach, Kate Spade, H&M and Victoria’s Secret. While some of the traditional fashion forecasting houses, such as Paris-based Peclers, still issue their seasonal tomes, Worth believes today’s fashion cycle requires a different approach to understanding trends. “As things have evolved, we’ve moved into the four-season approach, then into drops and the whole nature of forecasting, I think, has gone out of the window.” In 2005, Worth sold WGSN to British media company eMap for £140 million and, last year, launched the fashion division of Stylus, a service which offers creative research and advice to businesses, but does not, he insists, forecast trends. “We don’t forecast, we don’t predict. We provide inspirations for creatives to create trends; we track trends as they evolve, but we’re not forecasters in the traditional sense,” he said. “Social media dictates trends today. The trend emerges overnight and disappears almost as quickly.” Abnett, K. (2015).
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V/M & INSTORE ART OF PROP MODULAR MINDFULNESS NAIVE PLAY
PRINT & GRAPHICS MOODY BLOOMS FIGURATIVE FACETS SHAPE SHOW
SPORTSWEAR PRIMA BALLERINA COLOSSAL COCOON CONQUERING COUTURE
REFERENCES ILLUSTRATIONS REFERENCES BIBLIOGRAPHY
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“THE DESIGN PROCESS, AT ITS BEST, INTEGRATES THE ASPIRATIONS OF ART, SCIENCE, AND CULTURE.” - JEFF SMITH
Smith, J. (2015).
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Candied pastels and obscure settings. Along with inspiration taken from DIY craft makes up the Art of Prop trend. A cleverly put together way of displaying products instore.
Creative directors such as Anna Lomax, Andres Calderon and Anny Wang are contributers to this trend. Their witty eye and interesting use of colour combination portrays why using prop has such an impact to visual merchandising. Architect Yohij Yamamoto suspended colourful strips of wood from the ceiling of an Issey Miyake boutique in Tokyo, which from certain angles look like five solid chairs. A brilliant example of how prop can be used to elavate the inside of a store and draw the customers in.
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MODULAR MINDFULNESS
As Leonardo Dicaprio stated during his oscars acceptance speech, “Climate change is real. It is happening right now. It is the most urgent threat facing our entire species, and we need to work collectively together and stop procrastinating.” Fletcher, R. (2016). This subject is becoming more and more talked about, which has developed this Macro trend.
Modular Mindfulness excercises the need to re focus on the environemnt and it’s worsening issues. For instance there are projects that have been set up more recently such as ‘Plant City’ that is a collaboration between architects, designers and technologists that are finding new ways to interact with nature. Also relevant, the ‘LowLine Lab’ that is centred in New York City. An underground park designed to use solar technology to innovate and illuminate a historic trolley terminal on the lower East Side.
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NAIVE PLAY
Naive play makes a return but this time more refined. The muted colour palette brings a touch of maturity to this trend, the childish yet polished aesthetic allows this adult sized play area to come to life.
‘A Passing Space’. An exhibition put on by creatives, Lorena Van Bunningen and Majdavidakovic. Featuring the envolving peeling of latex on the walls of a studio that relates to the interaction that this child meets adult trend characterizes. Again in Mexico City this trend is displayed in a childrens boutique. A giant bead maze stretches around the entire store weaving in and out of the clothing rails. Adults can have fun too.
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MOODY BLOOMS
Twisted florals take a moody turn when pastels are swapped in for rich plums and mustards. The groundbreaking revalation of flowering prints are continously being elavated for the new season and now they are back in a darker hue.
Cultural references include the likes of print genius William Morris and painter Claude Monet. Meanwhile, currently strutting the catwalks is Gucci and Erdem showing their own spin on this uber cool new trend. Embrodided silks and nettings create an updated look rather than feeling like you are channeling your grannies wardrobe.
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Scribbling all over your favourite shirt really has become the next big thing - believe it or not. Illustrators are having a moment when even the most couture of designers are putting pen to fabric.
Inspiration taken from the likes of Tracy Emin who has perfected the art of doodling that makes sense. Another key player is the creative team at Shrmips, in particular Hannah Weiland who over looks the brand. Shrimps have recently brought out a collection covered in the labels trademak illustrations. Line in general has been used to create a different dimension within print and graphics, as seen in Christopher Kanes AW 16 show - linear strips of material create an impactful statement.
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Graphic architecture and Piet Mondrian are responsible for the come back of the Shape Show. Geometric patterns arent just for the 1920s as we see on next seasons catwalk these principles refreshed and unexpected. Bold colours and oversized faces take a nod to cubism and the genius Picasso.
Roksandas Resorts 2016 Collection is no stranger from this trend. The blocky shapes are based on deconstructed patterns similar to those found in the early 20th century art. David DelfĂn states wearing jackets featuring multi coloured triangles, a reference to the Bauhas is ‘in’ and we definitely believe him.
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Soft blush and Pebble grey are the stand out colours that coat this romantic trend. Laced with netting and fastened with a cross -over strap, this is the ultimate work out gear that you want to covet this season.
Misty Copeland is the pioneer of this trend, an inspiration due to her determination and refusion to let go of her career. She eventually became the first African American to become appointed as a principle dancer for the American Ballet Theatre. Cultural references point to Edgar Degas, most famous for his ballet dancers in blue. However most recently Kanye West has showcased his Yeezy collection that elavates the classical ballerina into this generation.
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COLOSSAL COCOON
Oversized isn’t enough anymore. We want it to be triple the size, triple the material, and to practically drape behind us. Colossal Cocoon is back and bigger than ever. The colours are earthly but vibrant, creating the perfect look for that throw-on outfit after your work out.
At the Marques’Almeida AW16 show we see examples of oversized padded puffa coats - perfect for practicality ensuring you are kept warm this season. Paired with bold heels and a graphic tee you are able to lift this look into your everyday lifestyle even on the go.
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Your favourite designers take on couture activewear as the macro trend yearns for a healthy lifestyle, and keeping fit is dominating fashion at the moment. We’re talking liquid silks and pewter bombers matched with loose cream trousers and a pair of chunky trainers to acheieve this stylish look - in and outside of the gym.
Carven have recently displayed race circuit inspired garements down the catwalk. A mash up of influences taken from retro 60s fashion and original Formula 1 racing wear. The outcomes included PVC python jackets and japanese art printed frocks that came in a variety of bold colours that twisted around the body dynamically.
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