SPECTR
SILHOUETTE
»The Wave 5567 OH 3645«
SILHOUETTE
»The Wave 5567 OB 9145«
»The Wave
5567 OB 9145«
»The Wave 5567 OD 5545«
MeetRifka
PATRICK DEMPSEY WEARING THE P‘8973 SUNGLASSES.
CHIAROSCURO
SHADOW & LIGHT COLLECTION
FALL-WINTER 2024
SILHOUETTE
»The Wave 5567 OH 3645«
DESCARTES // “EGO GERUNT SPECULA,
ERGO SUM”
“I wear glasses, therefore I am” – a playful twist on René Descartes’ iconic proclamation, “I think, therefore I am”. While Descartes didn’t make any remarks about eyewear – at least not to our knowledge – his statement has undeniably shaped the history of philosophy and, in its simplicity, has even found a place in pop culture.
With this sentence, Descartes overcame doubts about his own existence through the act of thinking. We won’t question his claim to perhaps the most famous sentence in philosophy. But once we’ve accepted our own existence as a given, we naturally turn to the next existential questions: “Who am I?” and “How am I perceived?”. Which brings us to our most important topic: eyewear. No other accessory is so ubiquitous in daily life or has such a significant impact on our appearance. While clothes may make the man, as is often said, eyewear can make an incredibly profound statement.
That's why it’s important that eyewear is not only of the highest quality, but also reflects our personality, enhances our character, and presents an image that is consistent with how we see ourselves. Although eyewear may appear similar at first glance, the impact of different shapes, colors and materials can be remarkably different.
In issue #42, we want to help you find your perfect pair. Our journey took us from New York to Berlin, from London to Mallorca, capturing the key visuals of top premium brands along the way. We invite you to enjoy the reading, discover your ideal pair of eyewear, and perhaps discover a little more about yourself along the way.
IMPRINT
EDITOR IN CHIEF
STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817
LAYOUT
CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com
EDITORIAL STAFF
LINDA KRIEG [Cologne] l.krieg@spectr-magazine.com
HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne] krosigk@spectr-magazine.com
PROOFREADING
PETER ASHFORD [London]
INSA MUTH [Dortmund]
ONLINE EDITOR
CARO ROSS [Cologne] online@spectr-magazine.com
PHOTOGRAPHERS/PRODUCERS
SOPHIE DAUM [HAMBURG]
WILLIAM FERCHICHI [NEW YORK]
ULRICH HARTMANN [BERLIN]
SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [MUNICH]
ANDREA KADLER [HAMBURG]
STEFAN KAPFER [DUSSELDORF]
NARÈNTE [SARDINIA]
NOCERA & FERRI [LONDON]
AVA PIVOT [BERLIN]
RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [DUSSELDORF]
PATRICK WALTER [BERLIN]
PUBLISHER
MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH
Kamekestrasse 20-22 50672 Cologne, Germany t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com
CEOS
STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK
F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH
Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg, Germany fw-medien.de
COVER PHOTOS
ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin]
ITALIA INDEPENDENT
SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.
INDEX INDEX INDEX INDEX INDEX
INDEX INDEX INDEX INDEX INDEX
Sophie Daum
photography : SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER [Munich]
styling : JULIA SATTLER
hair & make-up : REBECCA KUGLER
models : AMELIE KAMMEL at FIRST CHOICE & LEONIE MÜLLER at MODELWERK
BACK YARD RIOTS BACK YARD RIOTS BACKYARD RIOTS BACK YARD RIOTS
Special sunglasses for ordinary everyday situations
Preparing for urban cross golf with a game of backyard table tennis? Probably just as normal as relaxing in the pool after a HIIT workout and quickly setting off a few Bengalos in preparation for the folding bike tour. A completely normal afternoon – just an ordinary day.
At least that’s the impression created by photographer Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter, who once again skillfully and yet in a very special way stages our favorite sunglasses: removed and beyond the expected. His production shatters conventions and paradigms and often leaves the viewer with a cognitive dissonance. Höchstetter’s productions are also a
tribute to individuality and self-expression. It’s not just about acting, it’s about living, loving and provoking – always with the necessary portion of style, because, as we all know, style must never be neglected. Never. When it comes to sunglasses fit, this was supposedly the easiest task. We sent the Munich creative team the latest 2024 designs from top brands. Included in the casting for the Backyard Riots: ANNE ET VALENTIN, CAZAL, CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX, CUTLER AND GROSS, EINSTOFFEN, ETNIA BARCELONA, HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR and METROPOLITAN
CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »CMS193 LA VALENCIA«skirt, jacket & bag BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN boots AZALEA WANG
CUTLER AND GROSS »CGSN 1414 02«swimsuit BARA STUDIO tights CALZEDONIA
www.moiaussi.com
IG @moiaussiartgallery
YOU MAWO »Keen«
YOU MAWO »Ruby«
photography : WILLIAM FERCHICHI [New York]
styling : AISYA WASHINGTON assisted by TAMARRA LEE
hair : AVA MIHALJEVICH using R&CO
make-up : MATTHEW RICHARD using CHANEL BEAUTY
models : SUSANNE DIAZ & SOPHIA CRAWFORD at WOMEN360
photo assistant : OMKAR HUUDE
RA OUND THE WO DLR
YOU MAWO ROUNDNESS AS THE ESSENCE OF WHOLENESS
YOU MAWO – short for “Your Magic World” –has been a pioneer in the world of 3D printed eyewear for many years. While 3D printing technology offers endless possibilities for eyewear design, limited only by the imagination, certain shapes have proven timeless, simply due to their harmony and balance. These designs can be reinterpreted through the ages, with the round frame being a classic example.
YOU MAWO »Fleming«
top HURRICANE B
The essence of this enduring shape is captured in several YOU MAWO models, including »Nama«, »Ruby« and »Fleming«. Each of these frames exemplifies the elegance of smooth, velvety lines, showing how a wellcrafted round design can embody harmony. To illustrate the universal appeal of this aesthetic – transcending national and cultural boundaries – we’ve taken these “roundies”
to New York City, where Brooklyn-based photographer William Ferchichi has skillfully captured them against the dynamic backdrop of the city. Ferchichi, who’s contributed to SPECTR for many issues, brings his unique perspective to this collection, showcasing the harmonious blend of design and urban energy in the vibrant environment of the Big Apple.
MAWO »Nama«dress JENDUE
A standout piece in our round selection is the »Keen« model. This frame artfully contrasts a round lens shape with a hexagonal frame, emphasizing the juxtaposition between the curved design of the eyewear and the linear architecture of the East Coast metropolis.
The journey with YOU MAWO comes full circle with the product names – all models are inspired by unique places from “Your Magic World”. This adventure takes us from a Himalayan mountain pass (»Nama«), to a forest in Nevada (»Ruby«), a crater on the moon (»Fleming«), and even to the East Coast itself with the »Keen« model.
youmawo.com
photography : STEFAN KAPFER [Dusseldorf]
styling : MARION STREHLOW
hair & make-up : TABEA at 21AGENCY
models : JESS K. at VIVIENNE MODELS & NIKA at ELENA MODELS
production & retouch : H60 OFFICE DÜSSELDORF
COURT COUTURE COURT COUTURE COURT COUTURE COURT COUTURE COURT COUTURE COURT
ITALIA INDEPENDENT »Accelerazione«
Surf And Volley With Select Eyewear Highlights
On the world’s most prestigious center courts, strict dress codes and etiquette reign supreme – but for Stefan Kapfer and his team, these conventions simply don’t apply. In his latest work for SPECTR, the Düsseldorf-based photographer subverts expectations with a bold visual narrative. The scene unfolds on red clay, where two female protagonists challenge every norm, their clothes and surroundings a stark contrast to tradition. Instead of the usual white, deep blacks dominate the set, while the court itself is abstracted from its athletic origins. Functional sports eyewear is nowhere to be found; instead, the models showcase stylish eyewear and sunglasses that would look right at home in the stands at Roland Garros, Flushing Meadows or Wimbledon. “SPECTR, your serve”, with standout pieces from CAZAL, CUTLER AND GROSS, ECO, HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR, INVU, ITALIA INDEPENDENT and REIZ.
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »326 KH7 H10/910-H10«
INVU »IB22425A«
EINSTOFFEN
FRESH PERSPECTIVES
In our last issue in January 2024, we gave you an exciting insight into EINSTOFFEN’s Raw & Noble campaign. But the Swiss eyewear brand is not resting on its laurels. Ramon Studer, one of the co-founders, shares his experiences and strategic thoughts with us and presents the themes for the fall – in particular the further development of the Essential collection.
The new EINSTOFFEN models uphold the brand’s signature commitment to meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail.
»Essenzmischer«
Ramon, you opened your new store in St. Gallen at the beginning of the year. How would you describe your experience so far?
We see the brand store as an important tool to get to know customer needs better and to better understand the optician’s view of the market. The direct contact with customers and also the interaction with our opticians gives us very important insights for our day-to-day business.
In January, we reported on your Raw & Noble campaign. Today we’re talking about your Essential frames. Can you tell us more about them?
On top of color additions to the current collection, 40 basic titanium frames are coming in the EINSTOFFEN Essential collection this fall. The models are all very wearable and harmonious and balanced in terms of color, in subtle gold or silver tones or even in goldgreen or purple nuances. Nothing gaudy, but with fine details.
Your strategy at Basic Titanium is to offer high-quality eyewear at an attractive entry-level price. Why did you decide to go down this route?
We have now become a key brand for many opticians and our collections cover a wide range in the store. We keep hearing that EINSTOFFEN is also very popular with first-time customers. These are people who are buying their first pair of glasses. They are often looking for comfortable everyday glasses that are attractively priced but still from a cool independent brand. We have been looking for a way to offer high-quality titanium frames at an exciting price. One of the ways we achieve this is by purchasing more material.
EINSTOFFEN
»Parfümeur«
What added value do the Basic Titanium models and your special strategy offer opticians?
The first step towards life with glasses can be a big hurdle. Priceconscious entry-level customers in particular are often hesitant and secretly wish they didn't need glasses at all. This makes it all the more important to convince these customers with a high-quality experience right from the start and thus create the basis for a long-term customer relationship.
Is the more strategic focus in the fall and the conceptual approach in the spring typical of your way of working?
Yes, it has become established that we work more strategically in the fall and much more conceptually in the spring, with more scope for completely new ideas. For autumn, we look at what sells well over the season and then add new colors or respond to other requests that we sense from the market. For the spring or Opti collection, on the other hand, we work with more creativity and in a very playful way.
As we are used to from you, there is once again a nice storytelling about your eyewear. Which theme and which professions are involved this time?
We are fascinated by people who are doing their own thing outside of their regular working life. We have already portrayed people we find interesting on several occasions. This time it's about professions that have to do with perfume. We portrayed someone who mixes perfume himself and the whole storytelling revolves around fragrances and essences. The portrait was filmed with an extremely rare Japanese cinema lens from the 1960s.
What else can we expect from EINSTOFFEN? Are there any other projects we can look forward to?
We are incredibly excited about our colorful spring collection for 2025, which presents proven bestsellers and bold new designs while seamlessly following our design language.
einstoffen.com
FASHION ACCORDING TO LOOK ARTS & CRAFTS
AESTHETICS
IN THE NEW PROFILO COLLECTION
The designer label LOOK represents innovative eyewear that seamlessly blends highquality craftsmanship with a contemporary flair – all proudly made in Italy.
With the new Profilo 4635 collection, the brand from the Dolomites brings a breath of fresh air to the world of eyewear fashion. The models embody a modern Arts & Crafts aesthetic that creates an emotional connection between high-quality Mazzucchelli acetate and unique color and finishing processes.
This is a true Italian co-production. Mazzucchelli acetate, also produced in Italy, is known for its outstanding quality and is presented with a modern twist in the Profilo 4635 line. Warm Havana tones, horn and color gradients are reinterpreted with special color effects to underscore the uniqueness of the new models. Profilo features bold colors on the sides and top edges. The visible core of transparent or semi-transparent acetate gives the models an elegant touch. In addition to their design, the frames are comfortable to wear.
A make-up for the eyes – a special highlight is the color-blocking, which creates a unique aesthetic with graphic color lines. Classics are given a modern update: black is replaced by twilight patterns, shades of brown shine with unexpected accents and graphic designs float under transparent layers. Color gradients and transparent layers in acetate catch the light and create unique, sophisticated color nuances that merge into a harmonious play of colors. Colors such as Niagara Blue, Leaf Green, Tango Red and Passion Fruit are inspired by nature at dusk.
The Profilo 4635 collection comprises six models – two for women, two for men and two unisex – and is ideal for adults with smaller faces. It’s a dolce vita statement in the best way possible.
lookocchiali.it
MEET US ON OUR BOOTH AT SILMO N°C 243 HALL 7
Brand: BRETT
Collection: STREAMLINE
The STREAMLINE movement, inherited from the aeronautical industry, brought about an aesthetic of speed in the early 20th century. A source of inspiration for our designers, it is at the origin of our new monobloc titanium collection, machined with apparent chamfers. This original STREAMLINE collection features a selection of metallic shades, blending elegance with speed. @brett_eyewear
VIDEO TRAIN VIDEO TRAIN VIDEO TRAIN
photography & creative direction : PATRICK WALTER [Berlin]
assistant : MAX SAUER
styling : JOHANNES JORGE assisted by KATERYNA BILAYA
hair & make-up : WIEBKE REICH
models : ANDRÉ COULIBALY & THOMAS KARS
VIDEO TRAIN VIDEO TRAIN VIDEO
BLACKFIN »Kensington«suit MARCELL VON BERLIN
Breaking Stereotypes –A Fashion & Eyewear Manifesto
What does it mean to be masculine in today’s world? Once defined by clear stereotypes, the concept of masculinity is undergoing a profound transformation. The rigid archetypes of the past are melting away, not only on the vibrant streets of urban centers, but also in the glossy pages of progressive fashion magazines worldwide.
For SPECTR, photographer Patrick Walter has masterfully captured this evolution in a compelling series of images set against the dynamic backdrop of Berlin. Here, two protagonists embody contemporary style with a boldness that challenges and redefines traditional norms. Their confident expressions and striking presence create a visual manifesto that invites viewers to explore new interpretations of masculinity and self-expression.
In the midst of this creative exploration, one element remains unwavering: the impeccable quality and cutting-edge design of the curated eyewear. The avant-garde “Video Train” project pays homage to the beauty of individuality and the exquisite aesthetics of designer eyewear. The brands featured in this visionary segment – GÖTTI, BLACKFIN, DAVIDOFF, LUNOR, MARC O’POLO and PORSCHE DESIGN –are the pillars of this new narrative, fusing sophistication with modernity.
LUNOR »A14 703« -
705«
GÖTTI »Reyes« -
GÖTTI
PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8981« -
photography & styling : NARÈNTE // LUCIO ARU & FRANCO ERRE [Sardinia]
hair & make-up : DANIELA DESSÌ assisted by CHIARA MARCHI
models : DESERT CAMILLERI & PIETRO CECCATELLI at LA REPRESENTS
STEREO TOMICS
New lool Highlights 2024
lool is known for its ultra-light, technically sophisticated frames that stand out for their modern manufacturing techniques and innovative materials. As part of the Etnia Eyewear Culture Group, the brand emphasizes a blend of comfort, lightness, and precision engineering, while embodying minimalist elegance. By focusing on essentials, this Catalan brand has established itself as a discreet yet premium eyewear manufacturer.
The Stereotomic Series by lool perfectly marries technical precision with minimalist design, redefining contemporary elegance. This collection, featuring 12 new models, showcases refined metal surfaces achieved through Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD), an advanced technique that applies ultra-thin, pure metal coatings to ensure a luxurious finish. With this collection, lool challenges conventional design norms, emphasizing the role of innovation in creating eyewear that is not only beautiful but also highly functional and modern. Each model is distinguished by its exceptional lightness, flexibility, and durability.
The new lool models are brought to life by the photographer duo Narènte, set against the backdrop of historic locations in Cagliari, Sardinia. For Lucio Aru and Franco Ferre, the presentation of this collection is an artistic juxtaposition: present meets past, minimalism meets opulence. The common thread between the eyewear and its settings is the essence of the new lool collection: timeless, elegant, and avant-garde. looleyewear.com
MARKUS T Int. Sales
FRENCH STATEMENT PIECES J. F. REY IMPRESSES WITH STRONG SHIELD DESIGN
Some eyewear models captivate us so much that they earn the coveted title of Editor’s Choice. In our summer collection, three standout models from the designer label J.F. REY impressed us enough to take center stage in this issue’s Editor’s Choice feature, set against the stunning backdrop of the Côte d'Azur. These models have one thing in common: a great attention to detail and, above all, an innovative shield design that embodies modern elegance.
The »Armstrong« has redefined the shield design and is therefore a prime example of French design expertise. Technological know-how meets classic craftsmanship. The bold frame is made of high-quality acetate, the inlays are produced using a 3D printing process. The temples are also made from acetate and can be opened and closed using an integrated spring hinge. The sunglasses model delights self-confident customers with category 3 polarized nylon lenses.
The »JF3069« and »JF3070« models are even more detailed. The metal frames of these optical glasses are finished with J.F. REY signature shields using 3D printing – a rarity for optical glasses in particular, which demands a great deal of self-confidence from customers. The combination of colored lacquered metal surfaces and the rather rough feel of the 3D-printed shields is remarkable. This new technology means that there are virtually no limits to the design of the eyewear models and J.F. REY makes the best possible use of this scope with the models presented here. We like. jfrey.fr
J.F.REY
»Armstrong«
»JF3070«
»JF3069«
We design intuitive and professional websites for opticians
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Especially for opticians: Our websites are based on many years of experience.
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Why FAVR web design?
• We have been publishing the eyewear magazine SPECTR for 15 years
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Let’s take your website to the next level! Contact us at: webdesign@favrspecs.com
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Attractive brand overview with individual landing pages for each brand — also perfect for Google.
Integrating products is not rocket science. With FAVR Product Landing Pages on the website, you can offer users plenty of inspiration.
photography : AVA PIVOT [Berlin] hair & make-up : TAN models : NOMIN at MIRRRS, & ANN-SOPHIE at MIHA & EDDA at MIHA
BOLD BOLD
Elegance Elegance
STRONG DESIGNS FROM HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR
Once again, HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR proves that luxury and sustainability can go hand in hand – and that the highest quality of craftsmanship need not be compromised. With the BOLD Elegance collection, the brand from the Volcanic Eifel takes us on a fascinating journey to the origins of eyewear fashion and impresses with its masterful use of natural materials and perfect craftsmanship. Photographer Ava Pivot and her team showcase the fine eyewear.
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR has been mastering the art of natural horn processing since 1978 and produces breathtaking unique pieces from the horn of the Asian water buffalo – each one more beautiful than the last. Each pair of glasses is the result of decades of expertise and a pure passion for producing outstanding products.
The new models in the BOLD Elegance collection combine unmistakable color creations in royal blue, forest green and vibrant rust red with timeless elegance. These vibrant shades
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR
emphasize the natural beauty of the horn and give each piece an unmistakable identity.
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR also demonstrates its expertise in design: the spectrum ranges from minimalist to expressive.
The S-line models are classic eye-catchers that inspire with an exciting color palette and multi-faceted horn elements. The Ti-line combines the warm look of natural horn with cool titanium, offering a stylish solution for avowed horn enthusiasts and new fans. A particular highlight is the V-line, which is extremely light yet stable thanks to the specially developed Triplex Horn® technology. These frames are the thinnest of their kind and show how far the limits of this wonderful material can be interpreted.
With the BOLD Elegance collection, HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR is once again setting a very special accent. Anyone who chooses one of the new models not only holds a fashionable accessory in their hands, but also a piece of history and nature –perfectly staged for the modern world. hoffmann-eyewear.com
“When heaven and earth unite in mythology, gods and figures emerge. Monumental beings that shape and move.”
REIZ, the acetate specialist from Baden-Württemberg, is also concerned with the design of the beautiful and timeless. The »Kronos« and »Hera« models have emerged from the genesis of the Swabian premium manufacturer, monuments to durability, outstanding aesthetics and timelessness that has become sculptural.
REIZ does not rely on understatement when designing the two god models from the Monument collection. And rightly so, as the two namesakes are important protagonists of
Greek mythology. Kronos, the leader of the Titans and father of Zeus, and Hera, the sister and wife of Zeus, impress with their balanced dimensions and sublime design. The two Made in Germany models descend to earth with convincing color spectra. »Kronos« and »Hera«, both available as prescription and sunglasses, are each available in six limited edition colors. The colors range from solid to translucent colors and camouflage shades. »Kronos« and »Hera« are the monuments that herald the new age of REIZ.
reiz.net
Since 1969, CUTLER AND GROSS has been synonymous with timeless elegance and superior craftsmanship in the world of luxury eyewear. The brand of Graham Cutler and Tony Gross has earned its reputation by combining traditional techniques with innovative design. Each model is crafted in Italy in the finest artisan tradition, combining functionality with stylish aesthetics.
This year, the London-based cult brand has ventured across the pond and is launching not only a new fall/winter collection with Hollywood Hideaway, but also a campaign that has it all. Hollywood Hideaway is a tribute to the glamorous but also turbulent Los Angeles of the 1970s. At a time when blockbusters and paparazzi shaped the image of Hollywood, stars such as Jackie O, Cher and David Bowie sought retreats hidden from prying eyes: the Hollywood Hideaway. This era and its iconic style features form the basis for the new collection –because the new releases from CUTLER AND GROSS once again have the potential to become iconic.
Hollywood Hideaway was produced by Frederic Auerbach. With his graceful visual language, he captures the magic and elegance of Hollywood’s golden era. Shot in luxurious villas and hidden locations, the campaign embodies the exclusive and mysterious character of the Hollywood lifestyle. Auerbach skillfully stages his models in their retro-inspired outfits, which harmonize perfectly with the glasses. The Swiss photographer never forgets to focus on the real stars of the shoot: the designs from the new CUTLER AND GROSS collection. The play of light and shadow creates a dramatic atmosphere that brings the eyewear models to the fore.
The Hollywood Hideaway collection comprises seven new models made of high-quality acetate and titanium. Like the campaign itself, the designs are inspired by the 70s. The striking silhouettes of that time are interpreted in a modern way in the new line. Models such as the blocky »1413« and »1414« as well as the round »1412« set clear accents. Cat eyes such as »1417« and »9317« combine retro elements with modern details, while the limited edition models »1412« and »9891« stand out with their extravagant shape and 18K Rose Gold accents.
The collection plays with colors ranging from classic tones such as black and tortoise to vibrant shades such as Joshua Green and Deep Blue Crystal. Of particular note is the limited edition color Burnt Sunset, which was inspired by the sun-drenched hills of Hollywood. All glasses are handmade and impress with their durability and comfort.
The Hollywood Hideaway collection and the accompanying campaign are a skillful fusion of past and present. It offers a wide range of models that impress with their stylistic and qualitative excellence. A model from the Hollywood Hideaway collection is a musthave for style-conscious eyewear lovers and, despite the mission enshrined in its name, it is far too good to be hidden away. cutlerandgross.com
SHINE BRIGHT LIKE...
photography : AVA PIVOT [Berlin]
styling : RITA AMTHOR
make-up : MBY at BASICS BERLIN
models : NAOMY GARCIA, MU XIANGYUE & FANTA CAMARA at MIRRRS
EXQUISITE NEW MODELS FROM MOREL
For over 130 years, MOREL has stood for innovative design and outstanding craftsmanship, a pillar of strength amidst changing times. The French designer brand is known for combining traditional savoirfaire with contemporary style. The latest creations »Anna« and »Jade« are no exception and perfectly capture the essence of modern femininity and vibrant style. The two feminine concepts are staged in different variations by photographer Ava Pivot and her creative team in Berlin.
The »Anna« concept is emblematic of MOREL’s femininity and combines trendy aesthetics with voluminous shapes and eyecatching transparency. The »Anna« designs are the perfect combination of vibrant colors and a fashion-conscious approach. The wide temples are held in place by a patented hinge technology that ensures remarkable durability without screws or soldering. This innovative detail not only adds elegance to the frames, but also emphasizes the functional beauty of MOREL. The attractive colorways match a variety of outfits and add a touch of sophistication and confidence to any look. »Anna«’s bold design language makes them the perfect accessory for women who want to make a confident statement.
Jade – a symphony of color and contrasts
The »Jade« model fascinates with a wealth of colors and striking contrasts. The unmistakable style of this model immediately catches the eye thanks to the richly nuanced acetate, which harmoniously combines different shades. »Jade« offers both round and square shapes, making it a versatile addition to any eyewear collection – and there is a flattering silhouette for almost every face shape. The wide range of colorways go with any outfit. morel-france.com
follow your instinct!
20-23 Sept. 2024 Paris Nord Villepinte
TRANSCENDING BOUNDARIES ETNIA BARCELONA X MOI AUSSI
ETNIA BARCELONA has long been known for its appreciation of art, culture and design. Now the eyewear brand from the Catalan metropolis is going one step further. With the innovative Moi Aussi art project, ETNIA BARCELONA is finally turning eyewear into a canvas.
Moi Aussi was originally launched by optician and art lover Andrea Zampol. Now, fittingly, the project is part of ETNIA BARCELONA and is undergoing a reorientation to create a global platform for artists from all over the world and give their art international visibility. Moi Aussi embodies ETNIA BARCELONA’s ultimate commitment to art, bringing artists together to reinterpret an unconventional medium – eyewear – as a canvas.
More than 50 artists have already participated in this project, interpreting the glasses creatively and with total freedom of imagination. By experimenting with colors, materials and surfaces, each artist creates a unique work and transforms an everyday object into art.
A central part of the project is the church dell’Abbazia Della Misericordia in Venice, which was purchased by ETNIA BARCELONA and transformed into a creative lab by Moi Aussi. Every month, two international artists are invited to create their artworks with eyewear. These works will be exhibited in galleries and museums worldwide to increase the visibility of the artists and the project. The creative lab is also open to established artists and artist collectives who wish to exhibit their work in Venice.
Moi Aussi is more than a brand, it is an artistic movement that aims to overcome cultural barriers. The Moi Aussi logo, inspired by the verticality of the architectural elements of the Abbazia Della Misericordia, symbolizes the unique personality of each artist. “MOI” stands for the soul of the artist, “AUSSI” for the sense of belonging to the artistic community.
The participating artists are selected each year by a commission of art professionals. Each month, two artists will live together in the Moi Aussi creative lab and create five works of art from spectacle frames. The glasses will serve as a canvas for their creativity and imagination. Of the five artworks, one will remain in the Moi Aussi gallery, one in the ETNIA BARCELONA museum, two will be exhibited internationally and one will be auctioned.
etniabarcelona.com
photography : SOPHIE DAUM [Hamburg]
styling : DILARA TUNCER at BIGOUDI
hair & make-up : ALEX MERK
models : MAURIA at KULT MODELS & AZUKA at MODELWERK
THE BLUE HOUR THE BLUE HOUR THE BLUE HOUR THE BLUE
SALT. »Caspar« -
Frames
with a perfect denim fit
Jeans – a true fashion icon with an extraordinary success story. Originally designed as sturdy workwear in the 19th century, they evolved into a symbol of youthful style and rebellion. Today, jeans are an indispensable part of any wardrobe, available in styles ranging from skinny to flared, and from sustainably produced to high fashion. A timeless fabric that remains as relevant in 2024 as ever.
In our fashion shoot, Hamburg photographer Sophie Daum shows a selection of glasses that go particularly well with timeless denim – from rich blue to subtle indigo variants. The brands DANIEL HECHTER, MODO, MOREL, SALT., YOU MAWO & ZOO EYEWEAR set fashionable accents with a perfect fit for denim.
ZOO gaZelle »10003«shirt S.OLIVER vest ARIZONA JEANS
ETNIA BARCELONA »Marea«
ETNIA BARCELONA »Romeroville«
photography : SOPHIE DAUM [Hamburg]
styling : DILARA TUNCER at BIGOUDI
hair & make-up : ISABEL GRÖNKE
models : LEO at M4 MODELS & SELINA at LOUISA MODELS
Virtually try on ETNIA BARCELONA FAVRSPECS.COM
COLOR MASTERY IN THE ETNIA BARCELONA FW24 COLLECTION
Since 2001, ETNIA BARCELONA’s design team has been captivating the global eyewear community with its fresh collections. What sets this Catalan brand apart is its bold and unprecedented use of color – each design is a vibrant statement. Few brands offer as many color variations within their collections as ETNIA BARCELONA. Beyond aesthetics, the brand is deeply committed to quality, crafting each pair from premium, natural materials like Mazzucchelli acetate and HD mineral lenses. ETNIA BARCELONA is also known for its unique collaborations with artists, musicians and athletes, setting the standard for cross-genre partnerships.
ETNIA BARCELONA
»Encants« -
longsleeve POM AMSTERDAM
dress JJXX
necklace 1 HUGO BOSS
necklace 2 AKKESOIR
earrings PILGRIM
The new FW24 collection introduces innovative elements in both metal and acetate styles. Metal structures create a captivating double contour effect, while acetate designs achieve a sophisticated look through the interplay of different laminations. The designers expertly balance hues and contrasts, offering a spectrum from subtle and classic to vibrant and contemporary.
Photographer Sophie Daum brings the highlights of the new FW24 collection to life with a contemporary aesthetic. Her visual approach captures the essence of this innovative designer brand: youthful, edgy and effortlessly modern. We’re impressed.
etniabarcelona.com
ETNIA BARCELONA
longsleeve MONKI
shirt VERO MODA
necklace 1 TOMMY HILFIGER
necklace 2 AKKESOIR
LUNOR ESSENTIALS
Since its foundation in 1991, the LUNOR brand has stood for classic and timeless eyewear design that combines master craftsmanship and the highest quality. The result is highquality frames that are manufactured using advanced technologies and sustainable processes. This quality is visible – as in the three models shown here.
ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS
RAEN
RAEN was founded in 2009 in Oceanside, California, and captures the essence of the Californian lifestyle with its high-quality, handcrafted eyewear. Combining classic design with modern flair, RAEN uses premium materials to create timeless, long-lasting eyewear – like the ones pictured here.
ETNIA BARCELONA
Since its founding in 2001, ETNIA BARCELONA has been known for its bold, colorful eyewear inspired by art and culture. The Catalan brand focuses on sustainability and quality and uses 100% natural acetate. The resulting models speak for themselves – as we can see.
lool Eyewear is part of the ETNIA Eyewear Culture Group and combines minimalist design with advanced technology and craftsmanship. lool’s screwless hinged frames are inspired by Barcelona’s rich design and architectural tradition. The models are sustainable, durable and reflect contemporary concepts.
KOBERG was founded in 2013 and presents technically orientated, high-quality eyewear based on uncompromising design and craftsmanship. The Münster-based brand is known for its screwless cylindrical hinges and emphasizes sustainability – purism you can see.
Founded in 1995, the J.F. REY brand is known for its innovative designs and bright colors that combine tradition and modern style. The French eyewear brand is known for its use of innovative materials and meticulous craftsmanship and produces unique, high-quality eyewear – as is easy to recognize.
MASUNAGA
MASUNAGA was founded in 1905 in the Fukui region of Japan and has influenced the eyewear industry with unrivaled quality. Each pair of glasses is made in more than 200 steps from hand-polished acetate, pure titanium and gold-plated material. The result is luxury eyewear that combines traditional craftsmanship with modern design, as the three frames shown here demonstrate.
MODO
Founded in New York in 1990, the MODO label is known for its minimalist eyewear designs, which utilize innovative materials and high-tech manufacturing processes. The result is stylish frames that come with the latest technologies such as 3D printing and lightweight hinges – inspired by its home cities of New York, Milan and Stockholm.
MARKUS T
The German eyewear label MARKUS T, founded in 1999 by Markus Temming, produces high-quality eyewear exclusively in Germany. The brand uses materials such as titanium and TMi polyamide as well as technologies such as screwless joints and MSC coloring to produce lightweight, durable and stylish eyewear – German engineering par excellence.
TÜV SÜD analyzed sustainability 64.49% www.gloryfy.com/green
Rethinking frames: Unbreakable eyewear produced from NBFXTM cast resin in the company‘s own high-tech production facility in Zillertal (Tyrol, Austria). Unique wearing comfort, protection and performance in everyday life, during sports or when traveling. Function, innovation and sustainability in perfect symbiosis, characterized by an active lifestyle and the desire for something new. T 0043 5288 72800 · office@gloryfy.com
THE CAMPAIGN AWARD GOES TO… ESTHER HAASE
FOR METROPOLITAN
The SPECTR campaign award in the current September issue takes us on a journey through Hamburg, London, and... Passau. What might first seem like a random selection of destinations becomes much more logical upon closer inspection. The METROPOLITAN brand, originating from Passau, is beautifully brought to life by Esther Haase, a photographer who splits her time between Hamburg and London.
Esther is renowned for her lively, dynamic imagery, which captivates with its playful lightness and sensual elegance. Her work has graced countless high-profile campaigns, from Vogue to Mercedes and Swarovski to Dior, infusing each with her distinctive style. Her signature blend of vintage glamour and contemporary freshness is unmistakable, and her innate ability to tell stories and evoke emotions through her lens is on full display in this new campaign for METROPOLITAN, the celebrated brand from Lower Bavaria.
In the campaign, protagonists Emma and Greg set out on a seemingly ordinary city trip, only to have it transform into an extravagant adventure. An unexpected upgrade lands them in a luxurious villa instead of a simple apartment, immersing them in a world of opulence. They revel in their newfound freedom, with the latest METROPOLITAN collection in tow, embodying the spirit of luxury.
METROPOLITAN
The new designs are a testament to clear, minimalist aesthetics, capturing the essence of urban lifestyle and catering once again to trend-conscious fashionistas
metropolitan-eyewear.com
BYETONE
Since the founding of rastermusic, Olaf Bender produced music solo under the moniker Byetone, but it was not until 2008 that he released his first full length record on raster-noton. In May 2017, raster-noton dissolved, with Olaf Bender running the newly formed ›raster‹ label, handling the r-n back catalog, and realizing installations like Raster. Labor, premiered during Berlin CTM Festival.
R ASTER VAVA X
photography : SOPHIE DAUM [Hamburg]
styling : DILARA TUNCER at BIGOUDI
hair & make-up : ALEX MERK
models : AVALON at KULT MODELS & RUBY at MODELWERK
ITALIA INDEPENDENT
»Alfa«shirt H&M
suit WINDSOR
earrings & bracelet TOMMY HILFIGER
necklace 1 AKKESOIR
necklace 2 PILGRIM
necklace 3 TOMMY HILFIGER
ITALIA INDEPENDENT HERITAGE MEETS CRAFTSMANSHIP
Founded by visionary Lapo Elkann, ITALIA INDEPENDENT is all about celebrating individuality and independence. The brand seamlessly blends fashion with design, tradition with innovation, and creativity with a deep respect for its roots. Now part of the Modo Group, the esteemed brand will continue its legacy of bold, non-conformist styles. Need proof? Here’s ITALIA INDEPENDENT’s FW 2024 collection.
ITALIA INDEPENDENT has always been a brand for those who love their individuality. But despite its avant-garde lifestyle approach, the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship remains unchanged. In fact, both made in Italy and craftsmanship are founding elements. The brand focuses strongly on refined and unexpected details and material research. Iconic shapes from the past are revisited with new technical content and mixed with cutting-edge and contemporary styles.
ITALIA INDEPENDENT is an immersion in the world of Lapo Elkann, its creative director, a reality made up of values such as love, passion and timeless elegance.
ITALIA INDEPENDENT »Azzurro«
shirt ARKET
top COMMA
jacket BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
pants GANG
earrings PILGRIM
necklace AKKESOIR
The brand’s iconic shapes draw on the past, but are given a modern twist with technical innovations that show how Italian craftsmanship is still going strong. ITALIA INDEPENDENT eyewear is known for its attention to detail and a relentless search for the finest materials. The brand’s color palette is as diverse as it is striking. And the innovative finishes make its collections even more appealing, offering something for everyone with an independent spirit.
ITALIA INDEPENDENT has taken a strategic step by joining the Modo Group. The acquisition marks a new chapter for the brand as it is now aligned with Modo’s robust corporate structure and extensive international distribution network. The Modo Group has been a mainstay in the independent eyewear industry for over thirty years and shares ITALIA INDEPENDENT’s philosophy of independence, passion for innovation and commitment to exceptional product storytelling.
ITALIA INDEPENDENT
shirt VINTAGE
vest BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
necklace HUGO BOSS
earrings PILGRIM
Lapo Elkann continues to be an integral part of this new chapter, responsible for the creative direction of ITALIA INDEPENDENT. His enthusiasm for the role and his deep emotional connection to the brand promise an exciting future that we can already see and feel in this latest collection. 100% made in Italy and distributed through an exclusive network of opticians around the world, the collection shows what ITALIA INDEPENDENT is all about. italiaindependent.com
THE KALEIDO SCOPE THE KALEIDO SCOPE
KALEIDO
KALEIDO SCOPE KALEIDO SCOPE
KALEIDO SCOPE
photography : WILLIAM FERCHICHI [New York]
make-up : ERIC POLITO at ART DEPARTMENT
hair : DAVID CARLOS CRUZ at ART DEPARTMENT using COLORPROOF
models : HELEN ALBORNOZ & YANG XIAOYANG at STATE MGMT
New Perspectives On Eyewear
A pure expression.
Eyewear is an embodiment of style, individuality, and innovation. While our shoots often pair the glasses with curated fashion, this time, we eliminate all distractions – no clothing, no accessories – focusing solely on our signature pieces.
Through unexpected compositions and unique perspectives, New York photographer William Ferchichi creates a visual experience that redefines the art of eyewear photography. This fresh approach perfectly captures the essence of brands like ANNE ET VALENTIN, BARTON PERREIRA, CLEMENCE & MARGAUX, ETNIA BARCELONA, J.F. REY, O&X, OWP, RODENSTOCK and YOU MAWO
CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX
»CMS191 LA VEDETTE«
MASCULINE MINIMALISM MASAO EYEWEAR
The MASAO eyewear brand stands for minimalism, craftsmanship and authenticity. While the collection is deliberately kept in the background, the focus is on quality and style. The name itself gives a clue: “Masao” is Japanese and means “the honorable man”, which reflects the honest attitude of Ralf Kmoch’s brand. Honest in this case means free of artificial elements, but rather a masculine, modern touch that is increasingly appealing to women.
MASAO combines materials such as titanium, stainless steel and acetate in designs that use modern, urban and retro shapes. The materials and techniques used ensure that the eyewear is not only tasteful and stylistically diverse, but also suitable for everyday use and durable. MASAO is not about forcing fashion experiments on the wearer, but about highlighting individual character traits.
With around 100 SKUs, the MASAO collection is refreshed twice a year and supplemented with new themes. This continuous development shows what it is all about: unagitated, high-quality products without a dominant name. Restraint and an excellent price-performance ratio are key aspects that put the consumer centre stage.
masao-eyewear.com
Designer Richard Rembs draws inspiration from a variety of sources including music, automotive design, architecture and photography. These influences are reflected in his designs, which are characterized by attention to detail and the principles of Bauhaus. With over 40 years’ experience in product design, Rembs has developed a deep understanding of the market and style, which is evident in every MASAO design.
The collection is characterized by high quality materials and excellent workmanship. The finest titanium, stainless steel and a wide range of acetates from timeless textured Havana shades to transparent colors define the products. Each piece is an example of the art of making the everyday special and the impossible possible.
MASAO’s fits are the result of numerous everyday tests and valuable feedback from wearers. The variety of shapes and the openness to new materials are key elements that characterize the collection. MASAO offers products that combine durability, character and a contemporary, wearable timelessness to create long-term value and benefits.
CAPITAL COOL CAPITAL OF COOL CAPITAL COOL CAPITAL
photography : AVA PIVOT [Berlin] styling : RITA AMTHOR
hair & make-up : DIRK NEUHÖFER at NINA KLEIN
models : YALANI JACOBSEN, FATOU NDURE, JAKOB WEISSBARTH at IZAIO & DARIA L at M4 MODELS
It’s
all in the mixthe many
facets of eyewear
Berlin, of course! At least, that’s what you’d think if you focused on the modelling scene across Europe. No other city on the continent boasts such a diverse, modern and effortlessly cool talent pool as Berlin. London may be able to keep up, but outside of Europe, only New York can truly compete with this cutting-edge scene. Our Berlin-based photographer, Ava Pivot, is deeply embedded in the city’s vibrant creative community. For her Capital of Cool production, she handpicked a select group of models and showcased them in contemporary styles spanning a wide range of eyewear genres, proving that standout pieces can be found everywhere. Styles range from classic panto frames to contemporary single bridge aviators, colors from rich black to gleaming tortoiseshell and materials from tough acetate to delicate titanium. It’s a masterful mix of exceptional designs from brands such as EINSTOFFEN, I-SPAX, KOBERG, MASUNAGA, MOREL, RAEN & SILHOUETTE
EINSTOFFEN »Räuchermeister«shirt COS
GLORYFY
GLORYFY FROM START-UP TO HIGH-TECH EYEWEAR MANUFACTURER
The premium eyewear segment is known to be characterized by the independent spirit. However, the industry has long been increasingly dominated by large corporations. It is remarkable that GLORYFY, an independent family business, has been able to assert itself so successfully in this environment. The company, based in the idyllic Tyrolean Zillertal, has written an impressive success story. Since it was founded in 2011, GLORYFY has been developing and producing unbreakable glasses made from the patented special plastic NBFX. The eyewear is characterized by sustainable production, technical innovation and functional, contemporary design, setting new standards in the industry.
At the heart of the GLORYFY brand are unbreakable glasses made from the patented cast resin NBFX. This “unbreakable” technology offers the wearer unique protection and incomparable comfort, which clearly sets GLORYFY apart from other providers. In addition to outstanding break resistance, the company also focuses on sustainability. The glasses are manufactured in the company’s own production facility in Schlitters in Tyrol, which enables short transportation routes and fast delivery times.
The successful establishment of GLORYFY is based on several factors. One decisive factor is the focus on high-end specialist retailers and the close cooperation with opticians. Many opticians confirm that it is possible to work with smaller brands in a more individual, partnership-based and serviceoriented manner. This not only sharpens their own positioning, but also ensures that the customer receives the best possible advice and can experience the technical benefits of the glasses directly. The emotional connection to the brand and the enthusiasm for the innovative products ensure high customer loyalty and a high repurchase rate. There is also a new awareness of quality. Anyone who spends money on glasses wants the best product. “We offer our customers glasses that not only look good, but also offer many clear technical benefits, are durable and are produced sustainably. With all these arguments, we have a strong unique selling point in the eyewear world”, says GLORYFY founder Christoph Egger.
Functionality with style –sustainably produced in Austria.
The presentation of all these technical added values at the POS is very important to the Austrian eyewear manufacturer. “Our glasses offer many unique technical features – and these need to be presented. Ideally in a stylish and understandable way, such as with our ‘GLORYFY Wall’. Then you arouse the customer’s curiosity and fascination, which of course also has an impact on purchasing behavior.” The targeted staging of the brand in the salesroom is a win-win situation for both sides and has led to an increase in turnover of up to 50 percent at GLORYFY in some cases. There are many examples of this in Germany and Austria. Whether at progressive, traditional opticians or large premium chain stores such as sehen!wutscher, based in Graz, which is considered Austria’s leading premium optics company with around 700 employees and 110 stores. “We are convinced that we can only offer customers the shopping experience they want if they feel completely at ease with us. We create brand experience worlds that our customers can immerse themselves in”, says Fritz Wutscher jr. “GLORYFY offers technically unique products and the elaborately produced presentation tools make it easy for our employees to present them on the shop floor.”
Another unique selling point of GLORYFY is the optical glazing of the unbreakable sunglasses and sports glasses. Almost all models are also produced with prescription lenses. The optical lenses are also made from the unbreakable cast resin NBFX. Particularly exciting: the prescription lenses look exactly like the Plano lenses that the customer sees in the store – whether mirrored, self-tinting or polarized.
The high quality and sophisticated design of the glasses are the result of a detailed production process that involves up to 80 work steps, many of which are carried out by hand. The result is technical masterpieces that are manufactured with a great deal of love and precision. The combination of unbreakable frames and lenses, the highest optical quality (Abbe number 44) and feather-light weight ensures unique comfort and performance –whether for everyday wear, sport or travel.
GLORYFY founder and Managing Director Christoph Egger: “We are on the way to perfection! Knowing full well that we will never be completely satisfied, we set ourselves this challenge every day. That's what drives us!” GLORYFY’s success story is therefore not only based on innovative products, but also on the passion of its employees and the close partnership with independent opticians. This close cooperation enables individual advice and first-class customer service that large corporations often lack.
THROUGH YOUR EYES
“F***
I WANT MAGIC” SOPHIE DAUM –HAMBURG BASED FASHION
Hamburg-based photographer Sophie Daum has been a key contributor to SPECTR’s visual identity, creating numerous compelling images for the magazine. Sophie’s work balances high fashion with a meticulous focus on eyewear, blending artistry with a keen eye for commercial appeal in each shoot.
With a Master of Arts degree, Sophie brings a deep theoretical understanding to her fashion, beauty and portrait productions. Her photography is defined by an unwavering commitment to honesty, sensitivity, and authenticity – qualities highly valued by her prestigious clients, including FILA, Mercedes Maybach, L'Officiel, Breuninger, Cosmopolitan, and Nivea. In her visual storytelling, Sophie enjoys exploring contrasts and themes such as diversity and gender fluidity, pushing the boundaries of conventional imagery.
For the September issue, Sophie has made an impact with three outstanding contributions. She presents an 11-page fashion spread, shooting blue-tinted glasses in her Hamburg studio, perfectly paired with denim (pages 134–144). In a collection shoot for ITALIA INDEPENDENT, Sophie shows Italian fashion from a fresh, unexpected perspective (pages 166–170). Finally, she and her team take to the streets of Hamburg to showcase ETNIA BARCELONA’s latest collection, which fuses urban grit with high-end style (pages 146–150).
When she’s not behind the lens, Sophie takes her creative breaks with a passion for travel. In the winter, she often escapes to the south with her dog and homemade camper, finding inspiration in campfire nights, good coffee, dancing until dawn, and immersing herself in different cultures. These experiences fuel her artistic vision while staying true to her personal mantra: “F*** normal, I want magic”.
LUTE BEGIN NERS ABSO LUTE BEGIN NERS ABSO LUTE BEGIN NERS
photography & production : ANDREA KADLER [Hamburg] hair & make-up : EMMA BOMBOSCH at BIGOUDI
models : BIANCA CAMERONI at MGM MODELS, JILL CELINA KANANI at M4 MODELS & HAZ LUU at MODELWERK
photo assistant : MAX STRAMBACH
styling assistant : LILLI
NIRVAN JAVAN
»TOKYO 12:15 (JST)«
blazer MARCEL OSTERTAG
skirt JUVIA
Classic eyewear styles with a twist
Is Hamburg really the most beautiful city in Germany? One thing is for sure: the people who live there think so, despite the Hanseatic city’s notoriously cold and rainy weather. This makes versatile outfits a must – including eyewear. While it’s great to have multiple pairs of glasses, there’s something to be said for having just one pair that’s perfect for every occasion – classic enough for serious moments, but with a distinctive touch to stand out from the crowd. It’s a fine line to walk, but our selection of BARTON PERREIRA, BLACKFIN, GÖTTI, LOOL, LUNOR, NIRVAN JAVAN, MARKUS T, MASAO, and SILHOUETTE models navigate it with style and character.
There are many more reasons why photographer Andrea Kadler chose Hamburg as the perfect backdrop for high-quality eyewear – and the eyewear visibly feels at home in the city's unique vastness. The traditional design of each model, paired with contemporary accents and interpretations, harmonizes perfectly with Hamburg’s architecture. Ahoy!
NIRVAN JAVAN »TOKYO 12:17 (JST)«
NIRVAN JAVAN
»TOKYO 08:13 (JST)«
-
75«dress SLY010 earrings SONNIA bag HÖGL
BLACKFIN »Avalon«
jewelry ISABELLE FA
shoes HÖGL
VAVA BECOMES 10
The eyewear brand VAVA celebrates its 10th anniversary. In just a decade, this young Portuguese label has achieved a level of recognition that few others can match. The success is based not only on the quality and distinctive designs of VAVA eyewear, but also on the unique world of ideas that Creative Director Pedro da Silva has created around the brand.
ART AND CULTURE TURNED INTO GLASSES
Hello Pedro, VAVA is celebrating its tenth birthday – congratulations! What were the most important moments and milestones in your history?
There have been several standout moments for us. One notable example was the launch of the Capsule Collection with Pritzker Prize winner Álvaro Siza at the Venice Architecture Biennale in 2018. Another milestone was the 2021 collaboration with Olympic medalist Patrícia Mamona, resulting in a modular eyewear frame that reflects VAVA’s innovative spirit and passion for movement. Also in 2021, we created a sustainable 3D-printed eye-
wear collection with Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. A highlight from earlier years was our interactive installation at the Sonar Festival in Barcelona in 2014. An impressive story, but there were certainly also hurdles. Which ones? The development of VAVA was a million times more difficult than I expected. And when I think back on all the challenges of the last ten years, there are so many things that could have gone wrong. No one in their right mind would actually take on a project like this. To do something like this after all is thanks to the superpower of all the founders, all the beautiful inde-
pendent brands we see around us. Which project took the most effort and energy?
The biggest challenge has been finding the right people who combine personal humility with professional drive. At VAVA, we are building a strict but by no means ruthless culture. It wasn’t always easy, but I don’t believe in shortcuts either, so it was a long road with some setbacks. A defining moment was the move to Porto in 2023, when the company lost almost the entire team and went through an intensive six-month transformation process that laid the foundations for today’s
success.
How has VAVA developed since it was founded?
I think our discipline and our will to turn all our ideas into great products has evolved. It’s easy to have ideas, but it’s very difficult to turn them into great projects. When we talk about high-quality eyewear, there is a huge amount of craftsmanship between a great idea and a great product. You have to keep thousands of details in mind and work them through industrialization, prototyping, sampling and then production. We pride ourselves on avoiding mass production.
VAVA is very striking visually. What would you consider the essence of VAVA?
I like consistency and especially work that stands for something bigger. The Detroit techno scene and the post-industrial landscape of the city have long fascinated and inspired me. I’m also a big fan of Bauhaus and minimalism. A large part of the man-made world is made up of these forms. I believe that creativity and design are art. And there are designers who continue to defy convention in spectacular ways, and that’s what I try to do in the present day by delving further into the depths of my mind.
You can see that in your collections. How can the core message of VAVA be summarized in a few words?
VAVA envisions a future where there is no age, no gender, and no face, where
In his store, VAVA draws on a variety of influences, including the film 2001: A Space Odyssey, the minimal art of Donald Judd and Brian Eno's Ambient 1: Music for Airports.
equality and diversity are written in capital letters.
Is there a design or technical innovation that you are proud of?
Yes, definitely: our hinge. The VAVA hinge is strongly influenced by the structures of Sol LeWitt. The American artist’s major works, which are related to conceptual art and minimalism, have strongly influenced minimalism in fashion and also VAVA, especially his three-dimensional works. Inside our cube, a cylinder rotates in a fully integrated mechanism.
Music has also always played an important role for you. Now you are dedicating your 10th anniversary to the ambient movement. What fascinates you about this style of music?
I’ve always been fascinated by many genres of music, from classical to jazz to electronic music. When I first heard Brian Eno’s great “Music for Airports”, his first stated work that he called “ambient” music, I was hooked. And in that sense it's more than a genre of music, it’s a form that can be applied to the whole spectrum of cultural production.
You’ve also used this theme in the store you recently opened. But why did you open your own store in the first place?
We felt the need to experiment and attract the public with a breathtaking spectacle that is attractive, photogenic and socially relevant. The more visitors we get, the more followers we gain,
Virtually try on VAVA FAVRSPECS.COM
Upstairs, you’ll find the VAVA Laboratory ... where lenses are fitted, frames are custom adjusted, and repairs are carried out with the utmost care.
which in turn benefits the brand value and therefore our opticians. It is important that end consumers understand what VAVA stands for.
What can customers expect when they visit your store?
The VAVA concept store is all about the disruptive power of the label. The historic building extends over 300 square meters and is divided into three floors. The mysterious atmosphere of the different levels creates the ambivalence of being separate and yet connected. The first floor is the store, so to speak, where the eyewear and sunglasses are presented. What takes place on the other two floors?
This is where our Laboratory, our Eye Clinic and the Design Area are located. These levels are also characterized by
an extension and reversal of Sol LeWitt’s modular structures and correspond to his statement: “Conceptual artists are mystics rather than rationalists. They jump to conclusions that logic cannot reach.”
What specific experiences do you offer your customers?
The entire space is an immersive, multisensory art installation that boldly proclaims a unifying futuristic theme. Neon light floods the space, light and mirror walls radiate immersion. Color gradients filtered by daylight, fluorescent tones, atmospheric means and soundscapes dominate.
Let’s move on to the products. You are launching a new collaboration VAVA X RASTER. What is Raster?
Raster Media is a label that has pushed the boundaries of electronic music. Since
its foundation in 1996, Raster has established itself as an international artistic platform and label for experimental electronic music, which would be unthinkable without the diverse commitment of the associated artists. Raster was founded with the aim of releasing groundbreaking electronic music and creating and maintaining spaces for pioneering experiments. How do you see VAVA developing over the next ten years? Can you outline the path you see for the future?
The core ideology is to uphold VAVA’s goals, strengthen the brand DNA and achieve greatness and excellence. And I hope that over the next few years I can build a company that can one day manage without me, instead of feeding my ego by making myself indispensable.
vavaeyewear.com
VAVA X RASTER
The next milestone for VAVA: the collaboration with German label Raster Media and its co-founder Olaf Bender, aka Byetone.
SHIELDS WERE OFF AGAIN THE SHIELDS WERE OFF AGAIN THE SHIELDS
Shields – Must-Have-Items 2024
Shield eyewear is arguably the coolest style of the season. These futuristic pieces, featuring one-piece lenses, are the ultimate musthave for 2024. With their avant-garde aesthetic and oversized silhouettes that cover much of the face, they not only offer maximum sun protection but also provide an impressively expansive field of vision. Here, form meets function, resulting in a contemporary look that is both practical and stylish.
Originally developed by sports brands, Shield eyewear has caught the attention of well-known fashion labels, leading to modern interpretations from designers like ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, BOTTEGA VENETA, TOM FORD, and BALMAIN. These glasses have become a staple in the collections of top designers. Premium manufacturers like MYKITA, SILHOUETTE and MIC also offer incredibly sleek designs. A standout feature is a custom-made product from HAMANSUTRA,
available upon request for those seeking something truly unique. Shields need sun, and what better place to showcase them than under the bright skies of Mallorca? Photographer Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter and his team have staged these stylish accessories in a setting that perfectly highlights their significance.
Fancy more Shield styles on FAVR? The QR code will take you directly to our post.
MADE IN CADORE »Humus«