Beyond Borders Ahead of introducing his cuisine to the Thai capital, Michelin star Mauro Colagreco reflects on the irresistible success of Mirazur, sustainability, global expansion and the universal language of food. Words: Neena Dhillon • Portrait Photography: © Matteo Carassal
T
o call his rise meteoric would be
resort benefits from an enviable waterfront setting
something of an understatement.
in the historic Charoenkrung neighbourhood on the
Within a year of founding Mirazur in the
doorstep of Bangkok’s first official Creative District.
French medieval town of Menton back in
Alongside the 101 guestrooms, suites and villas, the
2006, Argentine-born Mauro Colagreco
food and beverage offer will comprise a contemporary
had collected his first Michelin star.
restaurant serving authentic Thai cuisine, an ethereal
Maintaining this culinary momentum, he worked
venue for bespoke patisserie and handcrafted
toward the double in 2012 before hitting gold early last
cocktails, an elegant tea lounge and, as the signature,
year when he became France’s only non-French chef
Côte by Mauro Colagreco – a culinary journey into the
to be awarded three stars, ruffling a few feathers in the
Mediterranean. “The ethos of Capella is very much in
process. The accolades kept flooding in, with Mirazur
line with my philosophy,” he says about the venture.
taking top spot on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants
“To respect nature and to use fresh and high-quality
list in 2019 and Colagreco then named the World’s
produce that is as local and organic as possible.”
Most Influential Chef by a prestigious panel of his
To really understand the 43-year-old chef’s
peers. In between tending to Mirazur, he’d also been
philosophy requires a glance into his past, to his
steadily building a presence in hospitality kitchens,
childhood in Argentina as part of a close family of Italian
partnering with five-star hotel operators in Beijing,
descent. He was a relative late starter, toying first with
Cotai, Dubai and Florida’s Palm Beach. This autumn –
the idea of following his father into accountancy and
pandemic permitting – the highly anticipated Capella
then diverting his ambitions temporarily to a literary
Bangkok opens its doors, showcasing his gastronomy
career. Frustrated by a lack of clear direction, he was
in Thailand for the first time.
rescued by the seed of an idea planted by his sister,
“This will be a beautiful project,” says the chef,
who reminded him of just how happy he had been
describing the first Thai outpost from Capella Hotels
when cooking with his grandmother. Staying with his
& Resorts. As part of Country Group Development’s
paternal grandparents during the school holidays, he
landmark US$1 billion Chao Phraya Estate, the urban
would watch as his Basque grandmother cooked fresh
