The World of Wine A history in a Glass
wine basics
wine for beginners
Introduction
104
105
EDITED By
QIANWEN ZHANG
WORLD OF WINE GLOBALTHE WINE HISTORY QIANWEN ZHANG
Copyright Š 2014 ELD b.v. All rights reserved. Published in the United States by The Chronicle Books, a division of Random House, Inc, San Francisco. Published simultaneously in the United State by Thames & Hudson Ltd., San Francisco. The Chronicle Books Press and the M design are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc. Library of California College of the Arts Cataloging-in-Publication Data Qianwen Zhang. I wonder / Qianwen Zhang.- 1st ed. p.cm Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-1-58093-296-7 (hardcover) Bantjes, Marian - Written works. I Title. NC999.6.C2B36 2014 700.92 - dc22 2014014118 Printed in United States 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First American Edition www.chroniclebooks.com
THE WORLD OF WINE GLOBAL WINE HISTORY
Contents Introduction
10
Chapter 1
Wine
18
Chapter 2
Different Types
of
Wine
32
Chapter 3
Different Types
of
Glasses
42
Part I WINE basics for
B eginners
Part II wine history Chapter 4
History
Chapter 5
California’s Wine H istory
69
Chapter 6
Wine
81
Chapter 7
Spacial Wine
in
of
Wine
China in
Asian
55
89
Bibliography
98
Index
100
introduction
INTRODUCTION
Introduction Wine
c. 6000 BC in Georgia, and c. 5000 BC in Iran.The
outward from a base of city-states along the
so far discovered having occurred c. 6000 BC in
jars at the northwestern Iranian site already showed
Lebanese and Israeli coast. The wines of Byblos
Georgia.It had reached the Balkans by c. 4500 BC
treatment with preservative turpentine pine resin,
were exported to Egypt during the Old Kingdom
and was consumed and celebrated in the ancient
the flavoring of modern retsina.By c. 4500 BC, wine
and then throughout the Mediterranean. Evidence
Greece and Rome.
production had spread to Grecian Macedonia, the
includes two Phoenician shipwrecks from 750 BC
grapes or other fruits. The natural chemical balance
From its earliest appearance in written records,
site of the first recovered crushed grapes, and an
discovered by Robert Ballard, whose cargo of wine
of grapes lets them ferment without the addition of
wine has also played an important role in religion.
entire winery was discovered in 2011 inside the
was still intact.As the first great traders in wine
sugars, acids, enzymes, water, or other nutrients.
Red wine was closely associated with blood by the
Areni-1 cave in Armenia, dated to c. 4100 BC.
(cherem), the Phoenicians seem to have protected it
Yeast consumes the sugars in the grapes and converts
ancient Egyptians, who, according to Plutarch,
them into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Different
avoided its free consumption as late as the 7th-
possibility
were
a seal of pinewood and resin, again
varieties of grapes and strains of yeasts produce
century BC Saite dynasty, “thinking it to be the
mixed with rice to produce
similar to retsina. Literary references
different styles of wine.
blood of those who had once battled against the
mixed fermented beverages in
to wine are abundant in Homer (8th
Wine is an alcoholic beverage made from fermented
A 2003 report by archaeologists indicates the that
grapes
from oxidation with a layer of olive oil, followed by
The well-known variations result from the very
gods”. The Greek cult and mysteries of Dionysus,
China in the early years of the
century BC, but possibly relating
complex interactions between the biochemical
carried on by the Romans in their Bacchanalia, were
seventh millennium BC. Pottery
earlier compositions), Alkman (7th
development of the fruit, reactions involved in
the origins of western theater. Judaism incorporates
jars from the Neolithic site of
century BC), and others. In ancient
fermentation, terroir and subsequent appellation,
it in the Kiddush and Christianity in its Eucharist,
Jiahu, Henan, contained traces
Egypt, six of 36 wine amphoras
along with human intervention in the overall
while alcohol consumption was forbidden in Islam.
of tartaric acid and other organic
were found in the tomb of King
compounds commonly found
Tutankhamun bearing the name
process. The final product may contain tens of
8
back thousands of years, with the earliest production
thousands of chemical compounds in amounts
History
varying from a few percent to a few parts per billion.
Archaeological evidence has established the earliest-
indigenous to the region, such as hawthorn, cannot
of these amphoras were designated as originating
Wines made from produce besides grapes are
known production of wine from fermenting grapes
be ruled out.If these beverages, which seem to be the
from the king’s personal estate, with the sixth from
usually named after the product from which they
during the late Neolithic or early Chalcolithic in
precursors of rice wine, included grapes rather than
the estate of the royal house of Aten. Traces of wine
are produced (for example, rice wine, pomegranate
the Caucasus and the northern edge of the Middle
other fruits, they would have been any of the several
have also been found in central Asian Xinjiang in
wine, apple wine and elderberry wine) and are
East. An extensive gene-mapping project in 2006
dozen indigenous wild species in China, rather than
modern-day China, dating from the second and the
generically called fruit wine. The term “wine” can
analyzed the heritage of more than 110 modern
Vitis vinifera, which was introduced there some
first millennia BC.
also refer to starch-fermented or fortified beverages
grape cultivars, narrowing their origin to a region
6,000 years later in history.
having higher alcohol content, such as barley wine,
of Georgia.This matches the earliest discovered sites
The spread of wine culture westwards was
in India is from the late 4th-century BC writings
huangjiu, or sake. Wine has a rich history dating
containing shards of wine-stained pottery, dated to
most probably due to the Phoenicians who spread
of Chanakya, the chief minister of Emperor
in wine. However, other fruits
“Kha’y”, a royal chief vintner. Five
The first known mention of grape-based wines
9
introduction
production or consumption of wine, during its Golden Age, alchemists such as Geber pioneered wine’s distillation for medicinal and industrial Chandragupta Maurya. In his writings, Chanakya
purposes such as the production of perfume.
condemns the use of alcohol while chronicling
The Turkish Uyghurs were even responsible for
the emperor and his court’s frequent indulgence
reïntroducing viticulture to China from the Tang
of a style of wine known as madhu. The ancient
dynasty onwards.
Romans planted vineyards near garrison towns so
Wine production and consumption increased,
wine could be produced locally rather than shipped
burgeoning from the 15th century onwards as part
over long distances. Some of these areas are now
of European expansion. Despite the devastating
world renowned for wine production. The Romans
1887 phylloxera lice infestation, modern science and
discovered that burning sulfur candles inside
technology adapted and industrial wine production
empty wine vessels keeps them fresh and free from
and wine consumption now occur throughout the
a vinegar smell. In medieval Europe, the Roman
world. It was not until the Renaissance, writes Mr.
Catholic Church supported wine because the clergy
Lukacs (who, when not researching wine, is an
required it for the Mass. Monks in France made wine
English professor at Loyola University Maryland in
for years, aging it in caves.An old English recipe that
Baltimore), that familiar notions of discrimination
survived in various forms until the 19th century calls
came to be. Only then did wine connoisseurs, a
for refining white wine from bastard—bad or the
minute group to be sure, begin to associate particular
tainted bastardo wine.
styles and qualities in wine with specific places, an
The altered consciousness produced by wine has
early idea of terroir. And only then did astute wine
been considered religious since its origin. The Greeks
drinkers begin to perceive that some wines could
worshipped Dionysus and Bacchus and the Romans
be appreciated intellectually and emotionally rather
carried on his cult. Consumption of ritual wine was
than just physically, and that the best wines conveyed
part of Jewish practice since Biblical times and, as
a sense of balance, length and depth.
part of the eucharist commemorating Jesus’s Last Supper, became even more essential to the Christian Church. Although Islam nominally forbade the
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29
I | Wine Basics30
chapter
1
Wine
for
B eginners
This section is designed to help you kick-start your ongoing exploration of wine. Through these simple and smart guidelines, you’ll discover your own palate.
wine for beginners
wine basics
foremost, you need to be methodical and focused.
and evaluating it. If you’re tasting properly, you
to the most important red wine grapes. Almost
Find your own approach and consistently follow
will be able to identify the main flavor and scent
all the off-characters we will encounter in wine
it. Not every single glass or bottle of wine must be
components in every wine you try; you will know
can be classified as flaws when they appear in low
analyzed in this way, of course. But if you really want
the basic characteristics for all of the most important
concentrations. When they are present in even lower
Learning to taste wine is no different than learning to
to learn about wine, a certain amount of dedication
varietal grapes, and beyond that, for the blended
concentrations (usually not much higher than their
really appreciate music or art in that the pleasure you
is required. Whenever you have a glass of wine in
wines from the world’s best wine-producing regions.
threshold) some of them even add complexity to a
receive is proportionate to the effort you make. The
your hand, make it a habit to take some minutes
You will also be able to quickly point out specific
wine, and may be considered positive attributes.
more you fine-tune your sensory abilities, the better
to stop all conversation, shut out all distraction
flaws in bad wines.
you’re able to understand and enjoy the nuances and
and focus your attention on the wine’s appearance,
details that great wines express. The time and effort
scents, flavors and finish.
Getting Started with Wine Tasting
Wine is made in virtually every country in the world.
You can run through this mental checklist in a
Rest assured, there are some truly bad wines out
These countries are often referred to as “Old World”
minute or less, and it will quickly help you to plot
there, and not all of them are inexpensive. Some
or “New World.” “Old World” consists of regions
out the compass points of your palate. Of course,
flaws are the result of bad winemaking, while others
with long histories of wine production, such as
sipping a chilled rosé from a paper cup at a garden
are caused by bad corks or poor storage. If you are
Europe and parts of the Mediterranean. Some of the
The ability to sniff out and untangle the subtle
party doesn’t require the same effort as diving into a
ordering a bottle of wine in a restaurant, you want
most well-known “Old World” wine regions include
threads that weave into complex wine aromas is
well-aged Bordeaux served from a Riedel Sommelier
to be certain that the wine you receive tastes the
France, Italy and Germany, and these regions focus
essential for tasting. Try holding your nose while
Series glass. But those are the extreme ends of the
way it was intended to taste. You can’t always rely on
greatly on terroir—the unique characteristics of
you swallow a mouthful of wine; you will find that
spectrum. Just about everything you are likely to
servers in restaurants to notice and replace a wine
the soil and climate, which give their wine a sense
most of the flavor is muted. Your nose is the key to
encounter falls somewhere in between. You have
that is corked. You are ultimately the one who will
of place. “New World” (as the name suggestions)
your palate. Once you learn how to give wine a good
probably heard from both friends and experts many
be asked to approve the bottle. Being able to sniff out
is used to describe newer wine-producing regions,
sniff, you’ll begin to develop the ability to isolate
times that any wine you like is a good wine. This is
common faults, such as a damp, musty smell from a
such as U.S., Australia and Chile. These regions tend
flavors—to notice the way they unfold and interact
true if simply enjoying wine is your goal. You don’t
tainted cork called TCA, will certainly make it easier
to have hotter climates and generally use different
and, to some degree, assign language to describe
have to do more than take a sip, give it a swallow
for you to send a wine back.
labeling methods; they tend to use grapes rather
them. This is exactly what wine professionals those
and let your inner geek decide “yes” or “no.” The
A wine beginner might know the basic
who make, sell, buy, and write about wine are able
end. It’s true that figuring out what you like is an
differences between a red and a white, it’s important
to do. For any wine enthusiast, it’s the pay-off for all
important component of wine tasting, but it’s not
to learn all the wine types and varietals. You can
the effort. While there is no one right or wrong way
the only component. Quickly passing judgment
explore everything from Chardonnay to Viognier
to learn how to taste, some “rules” do apply. First and
about a wine is not the same as truly understanding
and Cabernet Sauvignon to Zinfandel in our guide
invested in palate training is very rewarding—and a whole lot of fun.
How to Taste Wine
16
Exploring Wine Regions
Finding Wine Flaws
than region on labels for recognition.
17
wine for beginners
wine basics
Most Popular Regions and Grapes
18
19
wine for beginners
wine basics
label. Their placement may vary slightly but if you
Buying Wine
wine, it’s time to drink it! For starters, make sure
know what you’re looking for, they’ll be easier to
We live in an age in which sourcing wine has never
that your wine is being served at its absolute best. To
spot. Producer or Name The producer name is either
been easier. Looking for a wine from Crete? The
do that, pay attention to these three tenets of wine
obvious or in small text at the top or the bottom of
wine shop in your town will likely carry it, and if not,
service: Glassware, temperature and preservation.
At first glance, a wine label can be confusing to
the label (such as many French wine label examples).
you can easily find a wine retailer online. It’s in the
those just getting started. Luckily, New World wine
This is who made the wine. It’s important to note that
hands of the consumer to shop for the best deal or
Glassware Each wine has something unique to
producers have made it easier on wine beginners by
some American wine labels that only have a Wine
for the most elusive, rare bottle, which can often be
offer your senses. Most wine glasses are specifically
listing the grape(s) directly on the label. Old World
Name (such as Apothic Red) are branded wines from
shipped to your doorstep.
shaped to accentuate those defining characteristics,
regions have typically relied on the wine consumer
larger wine companies. Apothic Red is a branded
to be familiar enough with the region to know, for
wine by E&J Gallo–the producer.
Reading a Wine Label
directing wine to key areas of the tongue and nose, where they can be fully enjoyed. While wine can be
Region The region indicates from where the
Some states cannot have wine shipped to them,
savored in any glass, a glass designed for a specific
Old World Wines might read like this: Chateau
grapes were sourced to produce the wine. A wine
while others have more relaxed laws. Before you
wine type helps you to better experience its nuances.
Moulin de Grenet 2009 Lussac St. Emilion New
from a larger (read: more vague) region is typically a
can start investing in a full collection, you’ll need to
Outfit your house with a nice set of stems you will
World wines might read like this: Cakebread 2006
value wine whereas a wine from a specific vineyard
discover your palate by embracing opportunities to
reap the rewards.
Merlot, Napa Valley. The French wine lists “Saint-
site often indicates a higher quality regional
taste and determine what you like. When dining out
Emilion,” assuming the consumer realizes that
designation (i.e. “California” vs. “Santa Rita Hills”
with friends or at a party, be open minded! A rich
Temperature All wine is stored at the same
wines from Saint-Emilion are mostly Merlot. The
AVA). If a wine is from a specific vineyard site, that
Cabernet Sauvignon might woo you initially, but you
temperature, regardless of its color. But reds and
wine from Napa, California, on the other hand, lists
site will be indicated in quotations (i.e. “Les Suchots”)
may also take a liking to exotic Rieslings depending
whites are consumed at quite different temperatures.
both the region and the grape variety. As you study
or located right below the region designation (ie
on your mood. There is no better way to discover
Too often people drink white wines too cold and red
more about wine, you’ll become more and more
Vosne Romanee Les Suchots). Generally, as you
wine than by tasting everything. We have plenty of
wines too warm, limiting how much you can enjoy
accustomed to all the wine varietals and the Old
narrow the source to a specific site, the quality level
tools that will help: Best Buy Cheat Sheet, Making
the wine. A white that’s too cold will be flavorless and
World regions that produce them.
becomes more refined and the price increases.
the Purchase and Bargain-Friendly Bordeaux will all
a red that’s too warm is often flabby and alcoholic.
help guide you on your path to wine bliss.
Here is a key to ideal wine service temperatures:
example, that Red Burgundy is Pinot Noir.
20
Savvy shoppers will stay on top of ever changing wine shipping laws based on interstate policies.
Old World wine producers are slowly realizing
Variety or Appellation The variety refers to
that in order to compete on the global market, they
what grape or grapes are used in making the wine
need to make it easy on the consumer. But as much as times may change, a deep understanding of how
While this is a helpful guide, not everyone has
Merlot for example, or CMS Blend (Cab, Merlot,
Wine Serving Tips
a thermometer on hand. A good rule of thumb is
Syrah). Many blends will not reveal the constituent
Now that you have taken the time to learn how to
to note that white wines should be chilled before
to read a wine label will always be a useful skill.
grapes nor the percentage that each makes of the
taste wine, the regions and grapes of the world,
drinking and red wines should be have time to
There are a few important components of a wine
whole. If there is no varietal given.
reading a wine label and the essentials for buying
rise in temperature. Ideally, whites should be
21
wine for beginners
wine basics
Wine Insurance
A wine collection insured at $250,000 would cost roughly $1,250 a year to insure. Policies generally don’t have a deductible, says Foley. It’s a small price to pay to protect those precious bottles.
between refrigerator temperature (40°F) and storage
Due to its organic nature, wine can deteriorate
temperature (55°F) and reds should be somewhere
and turn sour. And if a bottle shatters on the floor,
Tips for Insuring Your Wine
between storage temperature and room temperature,
hundreds or thousands of dollars could be reduced
Ring Your Agent “The first step (to insuring your
which is often as high as 70°F. If your wine is in a
to a puddle. A standard homeowners insurance
wine) is to talk with your insurance agent and learn
temperature-controlled unit, at 53-57°F, pop your
policy doesn’t completely protect the investment of
about the different types of coverage available,” says
bottles of white wine into the refrigerator half
a wine collection. “It may offer coverage for theft,
Foley. If your agent doesn’t offer wine insurance,
an hour prior to service and take your reds out of
fire or if wine bottles break, depending on the cause
seek out an independent agent with expertise in
storage half an hour prior to service. This allows time
of the breakage, but a home policy does not cover
wine-collection.
for your whites to chill and your reds to warm up. If
a loss caused by extreme temperatures, dampness
Ask Detailed Questions The number one mistake
you have yet to invest in a wine storage refrigerator
and dryness or losses that are the result of a power
made when purchasing wine insurance is not
and your wines are kept at room temperature or in
outage,” says Jennifer Foley, account manager at
asking about the extent of the coverage. “If you have
the refrigerator, you’ll do the opposite. Put your reds
Assurance Agency, an insurance brokerage group
several thousand dollars of wine in storage, you want
in the refrigerator for half an hour and take your
in Chicago.Wondering if your wine is adequately
to make sure your policy provides coverage on a
whites out of the refrigerator for half an hour. Dessert
insured? The answer depends on how much financial
worldwide basis, including warehouses and storage
wines, sparkling wines and rosés are best enjoyed
risk you’re willing to take.
facilities as well as wine in your home,” says Ray
at a cooler temperature than whites. Refrigerator temperature will do the trick.
22
If you have $3,000–$5,000 in wine, but only want to be on the hook for up to $1,000 should your
Condon, president of Aon Risk Solutions, a private risk-management practice.
collection be harmed, you need specific coverage.
Condon also suggests asking if wine in transit
Preservation When you have leftover wine in
Wine in “high-risk zones” like an earthquake or
is covered to protect future bottles you may have
the bottle, preservation is key. As wine comes into
flood area, an area prone to extreme temperatures
shipped to you and if there is label-damage or bottle
contact with air, it quickly spoils. To slow down the
or bottles stored in warehouses or other storage
breakage coverage. “Think of the entire bottle, not
deterioration process, use a quick vacuum pump to
facilities should also be insured. Coverage is
just the contents,” he says. This is very nice skill to
suck out the excess air. The less air in the bottle, the
relatively affordable. While rates vary by insurer, on
insuring your wine and save it.
longer the wine’s lifespan.
average you’ll spend 50 cents per $100 of coverage.
23
wine for beginners
wine basics
tion, keep in mind that your insurance will need to be adjusted accordingly. Periodic reviews are To know how much coverage is necessary, you need
essential. “The exact timing of the review depends
to know what your wine collection is worth. Get
on the amount of activity in your collection, but let
a wine-appraisal specialist to get you an estimate
your agent know whenever there’s been a significant
before selecting a policy plan.
change in the value of your collection,” says Foley.
An accurate inventory with an up-to-date value
Wine is big business. Your wine collection is
helps you and your agent understand your insurance
growing and probably so is its value. But wine’s
needs and helps you manage your collection in the
value can only increase if it’s protected and properly
event that bottles get damaged. “People often learn
stored. Something as seemingly harmless as storing
that they were un- or underinsured the hard way,
bottles in a certain position can completely destroy
after their wine has been destroyed by a fire, flood,
the wine’s taste and investment value. Because wine
theft, breakage, etc.” says Condon.
is so delicate, it pays to listen to the experts on how to care for a wine collection.
Evaluate your storage space You may require
Whether your collection includes DRC Ro-
additional coverage to insure the storage area. Talk
manée-Conti, ChâteauLafite-Rothschilds or bottles
to your agent about the specialized environmental
from your favorite wine club, here are some vital
control system you installed, or other elements
wine care tips from Don Soss, private wealth execu-
you’ve added to your home to protect and store your
tive at Fireman’s Fund Insurance Company.
The Guide to Wine for Beginners Wine is more than just a drink; it’s a lifestyle, a survey into history, a gastronomic adventure, a study in farming and a way to explore different cultures. But with so many different angles to approach wine, how do you get started? Fortunately, there are only a few basic techniques to learn as well as some common wine knowledge. With a little practice you will be over the hump of being a rudimentary wine ‘dabbler’ to becoming an upstanding wino, capable of ordering wine like a pro. The wine for beginners infographic has the answers to your questions. Learn what the different for the wine styles, wine glasses and tips on tasting like a wine connoisseur.
wine. Foley says that a homeowner insurance policy may need to be reviewed and revised to properly cover these investments. Shop around Before you sign on a policy’s dotted line, Condon suggests shopping around to make sure you’re getting the best coverage for the best price. Get three quotes before deciding. When you buy, sell, trade or drink a bottle from your collec-
24
25
wine basics
Sauvignon and Merlot are nearly always bottled in a masculine high-shoulder bottle. These facts can help
Wine Styles With over 1300 types of wine out there it’s better to
is not listed.
start with just the basics. Discover the most popular
Calories in Wine
high quality wine varieties – from Albariño to
Even though alcoholic beverages aren’t required to
Zinfandel. In the Wine for Beginners Chart , you’ll
list calories, that doesn’t mean they are calorie-free!
find them arranged by color.
Learn the calories of wine by style including com-
Wine Glasses Which glass do you use for Pinot Noir, Cabernet
mon wines like Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Moscato.
Sauvignon and Chardonnay? You can discover every
Wine and Food Pairing
type of wine glass out there or just start off with a
We’ve illustrated wine and food pairings before, but
basic set.
the method above will inspire wine pairing with
Secrets to Reading Wine Labels On US wine labels ‘Reserve’ doesn’t officially mean anything, but there are a few tips you can learn. For instance, the alcohol level says a lot about the style of wine and the vintage tells you a lot about the quality.
Common Bottle Shapes It doesn’t matter what type of bottle you use (unless it’s for sparkling), however there are some standards in the business. Did you know that Pinot Noir, Syrah and Grenache are almost always bottled in a more feminine style low-shoulder bottle? Also, Cabernet
26
you identify what’s inside the bottle when the variety
common dishes you might enjoy at home.
chapter
2
Different Types
of
Wine
Do you know all of the different types of wine? This infographic organizes almost 200 types of wine by taste and style. Take advantage of this chart as a great way to discover new types of wine.
different types of wine
wine basics
Types of Wine
dessert wine, but many dry-style fortified wines exist
How The Infographic Works
such as dry Sherry.
Wines are separated by style, primary flavor and
Five Main Styles of Wine
Level of Sweetness
All wines can be organized into five fundamental
Within the five main styles of wine are different
groups. Within each group there are hundreds
levels of sweetness. This is a winemaking style as
of different grape varieties and also the different
most wines can be produced from Dry to Sweet.
between winemaking styles. Dry A dry wine is produced when all of the grape Red Wine Still wine made with black grapes. These
sugars are fermented into alcohol. Some dry wines
can range from light to dark and bone-dry to sweet.
may have a touch of RS to add body but not sweetness.
White Wine A still wine produced from green and
Sweet A sweet wine leaves a lot of the sugars in a
sometimes black grapes. Flavors span from rich and
wine unfermented. Sweet wines are typically lower
creamy to light and zesty.
alcohol if they are not fortified. (ex Moscato d’Asti 5.5% ABV)
Rosé Wine Still wine from black grapes produced by removing the skins before they deeply color the
Learning Wine by Flavor
wine. Also formed by blending red and white wine
There are thousands of different varietals, regions
together. Both dry and sweet styles of rosé are very
and types of wine. Because of the diversity it’s easier
common type of wine.
to start classifying wine by the way it tastes. Wine sommeliers identify wines through primary fruit
Sparkling Wine A style of winemaking involving
flavors. You can too! Learn how to taste wine like
a secondary fermetation causing bubbles. Sparkling
a pro to identify the basic characteristics of wine.
wine can be red, white or rosé .
These two techniques will build your wine memory. Once your tasting conditions are as close to neutral
Fortified Wine A style of winemaking involving
sometimes even an additional grouping of High Tannin, Round or Spicy. Here are definitions of all these terms: High Tannin Wines with high tannin feel like they dry out your mouth. The sensation is similar to licking a popsicle stick or putting a wet tea bag in your mouth. Round Round wines tend to have less tannin and balanced acidity on the finish. People often describe the sensation as ‘Smooth’ or ‘Lush’ when using the wine descriptions. Spicy Spicy wines tend to have higher acidity or higher alcohol. Imagine the tartness of cranberry juice versus the smoothness of peach juice. Some other grapes can be expected to carry herbal or grassy scents. Sauvignon blanc is often strongly grassy, while cabernet sauvignon can be scented with herbs and hints of vegetation. Rhône reds often show delightful scents of Provençal herbs. Most people prefer that any herbal aromas are delicate.
as possible, your next step is to examine the wine.
fortifying wine with spirits. This wine is Typically a
30
31
different types of wine
wine basics
White Wine Chardonnay
Pinot Gris Pinot Gris is made from grapes that generally
Red Wine
produce different styles of wine depending on where the grapes are grown and how they’re handled in the
Pinot Noir a notoriously difficult grape to grow, made its mark initially in Burgundy, France. The grape continues to deliver single-varietal wines that are among the best
Chardonnay is a very versatile wine grape: its flavor
cellar. In the Alsace region of France, and in places
Merlot
and aromas are easily influenced by where it’s grown
like Oregon and New Zealand, Pinot Gris typically
Merlot is a soft, supple wine with nice fruit flavors
of red fruits like cherries, raspberries and strawber-
and how it’s made. Fruit flavors range from apple
makes rich wines marked by a bit of spice. The
of plums and blackberries and occasionally mint,
ries. With age, flavors and aromas become more
and lime in cooler climates to tropical fruits in
Italian style (Pinot Grigio) tends to be fresh, crisp
chocolate and eucalyptus flavors and aromas.
complex, developing earthy notes like mushrooms
warmer places. When barreled in oak, it takes on a
and refreshing. Sample either style with seafood and
Typically, it is ready to drink earlier than Cabernet
and decaying leaves. Burgundy in particular is not-
richness characterized by honey and butter flavors.
pasta dishes, vegetarian food and poultry.
Sauvignon, which sometimes needs a few years for
ed for developing these earthy flavors. In the New
its astringent tannins to mellow. Outside of Europe,
World, tasty Pinot Noir is being made in Oregon,
New World Merlot shines in places like California,
New Zealand, and some of the cooler appellations of
Chile and Washington State.
California. Pinot Noir is a versatile food wine, great
When barreled in stainless steel, it often retains
in the world. Pinot Noirs are delicate wines that taste
more mineral flavors and comes across as fresher
Sauvignon Blanc
on the palate. Chardonnay excels in Burgundy,
Sauvignon Blanc is a fresh, crisp, aromatic wine
France. Cool coastal areas of California also produce
with grapefruit and grassy flavors. This wine is the
excellent Chardonnay. Chardonnay is a favorite with
star of the Loire region of France. It also shines in
Cabernet Sauvignon
seafood. Minerally versions, like those from Chablis,
the Bordeaux region, where it is often blended with
Cabernet Sauvignon is more assertive than Merlot,
Shiraz
France, pair particularly well with oysters.
the Semillon. In the New World, New Zealand has
with more tannin and greater aging potential. It can
Shiraz Australian versions are typically big, bold and
emerged as a prime spot for Sauvignon Blanc. Sau-
have flavors of blackberries, plums, black currants,
spicy with jammy fruit and aromas of leather and
vignon Blanc is a food-friendly wine that goes well
and cassis. Aged in oak, Cabernet Sauvignon can
black fruit. Syrah is at home in the Rhone region of
with many seafood, poultry and vegetable dishes.
take on flavors of vanilla, cedar, chocolate, and
France, where the grape makes spicy, rich, darkly
Riesling Riesling is a crisp, clean wine with green apple, pear
with poultry, salmon, meat and vegetable dishes.
and lime flavors. The best offer pleasing mineral
Stay tuned for more articles about wine and
coffee. Beyond Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon does
delicious wines that increase in complexity as they
qualities as well. With age, Riesling takes on honey
food, including regional food and wine pairings
well in Napa, California, where it produces smooth,
age. Syrah also makes delicious wines in Australia,
flavors and attractive oily aromas. Riesling grows
from around the world.
ripe wines. Washington State, Chile and Australia
where it is marketed as Shiraz. Syrah also excels
well in Germany, the Alsace region of France, the
are also making excellent Cabernet. Merlot and
in Washington State, where it often displays an
Finger Lakes region of New York, and parts of
Cabernet Sauvignon are very nice with meat dishes
attractive acid balance, and in California, where the
Australia and Washington State.
like beef and lamb.
styles vary significantly. Syrah is a very versatile wine that pairs well with a wide variety of foods. It’s terrific with grilled meats.
36
37
different types of wine
wine basics
Other Reds
Sparkling Wine Sparkling wine adds a hint of luxury to every good wine, through a fizzy/bubbly
Fortified Wine
the texture. Sangiovese Sangiovese is the wine grape that
with alcohol to ensure that it would last on long ocean voyages, but now it is made that way because of its popularity in foreign markets.
Fortified wine is a wine that has been blended with
makes Chianti, a tremendous food wine with flavors
Champagne The most luxurious drink of all
a liquor. The liquor most often used for this Brandy
Vermouth Vermouth or US
and aromas of cherries and rose petals.
is Champagne, a well-known produce of France.
which is essentially just distilled wine. This gives
fortified wine flavored with various botanicals. The
Champagne is savored in moments of celebration.
fortified wines a distinct flavor and a higher alcohol
modern versions of the beverage were first produced
content than normal wine – usually at least %15.
in the mid to late 18th century in Turin, Italy.
Nebbiolo Nebbiolo is the grape variety that makes
is an aromatized
Barolo and Barbaresco, the noble (and pricey) red
Cava The Spanish have their delicious version of
wines of the Piedmont region of Italy. With age,
Sparkling wine, known as Cava, mostly coming as
Port Port wine is a Portuguese fortified wine
Bum Wine Flavored fortified wines are inexpensive
flavor notes of plums and cherries are enhanced by
Brut and Semi-Sec, and as white and rosé.
produced exclusively in the Douro Valley in northern
fortified wines that typically have an alcohol content
flavors of smoke, tar and roses.
provinces of Portugal.
between 13% and 20% alcohol by volume.
Malbec Malbec is a star in Argentina, where
Sherry Sherry is a fortified wine made from white
it produces inky wines with an attractive smoke
grapes that are grown near the town of Jerez de la
and leather quality. It also stands out in Cahors in
Frontera in Andalusia, Spain. Sherry is produced
southern France.
in a variety of dry styles made primarily from the Palomino grape, ranging from light versions similar
Tempranillo Tempranillo is a famous grape of
to white table wines.
Spain, where it is used in wines of the Rioja and Ribera del Duero regions.
Madiera Madeira is produced in a variety of styles ranging from dry wines which can be consumed on
Gamay Gamay makes the fresh and fruity,
their own as an aperitif, to sweet wines more usually
raspberry flavored wines of the Beaujolais region of
consumed with dessert.
the burgundy. Marsala Marsala, the wine produced for export is
38
Zinfandel Zinfandel has found its home in Cali-
universally a fortified wine similar to Port, Madeira
fornia, it produces big, fruity, often spicy red wines.
and Sherry. Originally, Marsala wine was fortified
39
wine for beginners
wine basics
Dessert Wine
foot. Botrytis cinerea can occur on fruits, vegetables and flowers –imagine a moldy strawberry. However with wine, it’s considered a good thing. Wines such
These are sweet wines and as the name suggests, they
as Sauternes from Bordeaux; Tokaji Aszu from
are generally served with dessert. A rule of thumb
Hungary, and Spätlese level German Riesling all are
for choosing a wine is that it must be sweeter than
made from ‘Noble Rot’ grapes.
the dessert being eaten.
Ice Wine
Winemakers have struggled long and hard to battle mold in their vineyards and cellars. There is Powdery Mildew, a mold that affects vineyards.
Ice wine (or icewine; German Eiswein) is a type of
Cork Taint is caused by airborne funghi that come in
dessert wine produced from grapes that have been
contact with chlorophenol compounds. And finally
frozen while still on the vine. The sugars and other
Black Mold, a relatively harmless but ugly funghi
dissolved solids do not freeze, but the water does,
that inhabits dank cellars throughout Europe. Noble
allowing a more concentrated grape must to be
rot tends to happen in the portions.
pressed from the frozen grapes, resulting in a smaller amount of more concentrated, very sweet wine.
Raisin Wine Grapes for ice wine, still frozen on the vine
Straw wine, or raisin wine, is a wine made from grapes that have been dried to concentrate their juice. The result is similar to that of the ice wine process, but suitable for warmer climates.
Noble Rot Wine ‘Noble Rot’ (aka Botrytis cinerea) is a type of Ascomycota within the Funghi kingdom. Other ascomycetes include the antibiotic penicillin, Stilton blue cheese and the fungus responsible for athelete’s
40
‘Noble Rot’ on some Oraniensteiner grapes in British Columbia at Stoneboat
41
chapter
3
Different Types
of
Glasses
Today, flat glass comes in many highly specialised forms intended for different products and the applications. Flat glass produced by way of the float process is often further processed (see next) to give it certain qualities or specificities.
different type for glasses
wine basics
Types of Wine Glasses
bowls of wine glasses are also designed to allow an
Crystal vs. Glass: How to Choose
amount of surface area appropriate to the wine - red
Wine glasses are typically made out of glass or
wine glasses will have a larger amount of surface area
crystal – but what’s the difference? All crystal is glass,
Whether sweet or dry, white or red, robust or light,
for the wine to allow it to breathe, while white wine
but not all glass is crystal. In general, it is the lead
wine requires very specific serving procedures in
glasses will have a smaller amount of surface area.
content of glass that is the main determinant in the
order to reach its full flavor potential. In addition
Champagne glasses will have a very small amount
classification of something as either glass or crystal.
to proper serving temperatures, each type of
of surface area for the wine so that it retains its
The presence of lead softens the glass in crystal,
wine requires a specific style of glass for service.
carbonation.
therefore making it more easily cut and engraved. It also increases the weight of the glass and causes the
Understanding the different types of wine glasses and what makes them ideal for one type of wine over
The Rim Imperative to achieving the full experi-
glass to diffract light; traditional glass on the other
another is essential to getting the most out of your
ence from your wines. The thinner the rim, the less
hand is generally lighter in weight than crystal, and
wine history collection.
the glass distracts from the wine as you sip; a good
light will not diffract through it.
wine glass will have a “cut” rim that is smooth to the
In traditional lead glassware, the lead has a
touch and does not inhibit the wine as it flows out
tendency to leach out of the crystal. To combat
of the glass. Less expensive glassware may have rims
this, today’s crystal glassware is typically unleaded.
that are rolled or bumpy – while still functional, and
Unleaded crystal uses barium carbonate and zinc
The Stem Allows you to hold your wine glass
very much practical for everyday use, these wine
and titanium oxides to replace the traditional lead
without the heat from your hands warming your
glasses may distract from the wine itself.
oxide that’s often found in crystal glassware. These
Parts of a Wine Glass The Foot Allows your glass to stand upright.
glasses feature similar properties as lead crystal,
wine, and without creating smudges on the bowl
44
which will distract from the visual enjoyment of
The Color The best wine glasses are crystal clear to
such as temperature control and the ability to
your wine.
allow the beauty and subtleties of the wine to show
accentuate the aroma and flavors of wine. They also
through. Colored glasses and those with decorative
feature a similar refractive index to lead crystal, but
The Bowl Serves a myriad of purposes; here you’ll
accents may offer a beautiful appearance, however, if
are lighter in weight.Although the highest quality
find the most variation between glasses. The bowls
showing off your wines, clear glasses are the way to
crystal glasses are thought to provide a better wine
of all wine glasses will be tapered upward with a
go. This color is a representation of the average color.
tasting experience, the high cost of these glasses
slightly narrower opening at the top than at the
of bordeaux wine.
often prevents many from purchasing them. They
bottom. This shape helps to capture and distribute
are also very fragile, so you will experience a higher
the wine’s aroma toward your mouth and nose. The
replacement cost than with thicker plain glass.
45
different type for glasses
wine basics
Red Wine
White Wine
Red wines are made from “black” (red-colored) grapes fermented with the skin included. The skin is what imparts the red color to the wine. Red wines typically have a more robust flavor, and pair
Anchor Hocking Stolzle 377-00-02 Revolution
well with food that is similarly robust, such as red
Classic 13 oz. White Wine Glass – 6 / Box. White
meats (beef, lamb), hearty pasta dishes, etc. They are
wines are from either “black” (red-colored) or
usually drunk at or just below room temperature.
“white” (green-colored) grapes, fermented without
Red Wine Glasses Red wines are best served in large wine glasses, like these red wine glasses. The bowls of these glasses
46
the skin, and are often combined with citrus and spicy flavors. White wines are usually drunk cold, with lighter foods such as poultry and fish.
will be fuller and rounder with a larger opening than
White Wine Glasses
other wine glasses of similar capacities in order to
A white wine glass’ bowl will be more U shaped
allow you to dip your nose into the glass to detect
and upright than that of a red wine glass, allowing
aroma. This bowl style is also imperative because
the aromas to be released while also maintaining a
the complex aromas and flavors of red wine demand
cooler temperature. The white wine glass style that’s
a glass with a larger surface area to ensure that the
best for younger whites has a slightly larger opening
wine comes in contact with more air.A specific type
directing the wine to the tip and sides of the tongue
of red wine glass, the Bordeaux glass, is taller than
to taste its sweetness. The glass for more mature
traditional red wine glasses, yet the bowl is not quite
white wines will be straighter and taller to dispense
as large. It is designed for full bodied, heavier red
the wine to the back and sides of the tongue to taste
wines such as Cabernets and Merlots.
this white wine bolder flavors.
47
different type for glasses
wine basics
Sparkling Wine
Rose Wine
Rose wines are pink or blush-colored. The pink color comes from the fact that the grape skin is included for just the first few hours of the fermentation process, or sometimes due to the wine being a mixture of red and white wines. Most rose wines are medium-sweet, especially in the US, but some of the best European roses can be very dry. Sparkling wine, or champagne, adds a hint of luxury, through a fizzy/bubbly texture. The “sparkles�
Rose Wine Glasses
in sparkling wine are bubbles of carbon dioxide,
Two types of wine glasses are widely accepted for
which is a natural byproduct of fermentation process.
use with rose wines – stemmed glasses with a short
Sparkling Wine Glasses
48
bowl and a slight taper, and those with a short bowl and a slightly flared lip. Since these wines are fairly
A sparkling wine glass (or champagne flute) will
similar in fermentation process as white wines,there
be upright and narrower than most wine glasses to
are the use of a white wine glass is also considered
retain the carbonation and capture the flavor in the
acceptable for these types of wine if a rose wine glass
beverage of the wine.
is not available.
49
different type for glasses
wine basics
Dessert Wine
Fortified Wines
Dessert wines are sweet wines and as the name suggests, they are generally served with dessert. Since there are many dessert wine types, a rule of thumb for choosing a wine is that it must be sweeter than the dessert being eaten.
Dessert Wine Glasses
Fortified wine is a wine that has been blended with a
Dessert wine glass is also known called as aperitif
liquor. The liquor most often used for this is Brandy
glass. The dessert wine glasses are used to enjoy the
which is essentially just distilled wine. This gives
rich bouquet and sweet flavor of the dessert wines.
fortified wines a distinct flavor and a higher alcohol
Dessert wine glasses are designed with special rim
content than normal wine – at least 15% ABV.
that isdessert wine glass angle at 14 degrees. This
50
makes the glass suitable to drink the wine easily and
Fortified Wine Glasses
also to experience the wine aroma.
A fortified wine glass should be smaller to direct
The standard size of the glass is 120 ml this is
the wine to the back of the mouth so the sweetness
done to make the wine to dispense to the back and
doesn’t overwhelm. Dessert wines generally have a
also to prevent the overwhelming of the wine sweet-
higher alcohol content, making small dessert wine
ness to the drinkers. The dessert wine glass is made
glasses perfect for a smaller serving. The same rule of
smaller to wine directly to the back of the mouth.
thumb applies to sherry and cordial glasses.
51
different type for glasses
wine basics
Specialty Wine Glasses
Stemless Wine Glasses Offering the same shapes and styles of bowls as traditional stemmed wine glassware, stemless wine glasses deliver function with modern style and a limited risk of breakage. Wines may be warmed faster than with stemmed glasses, but the stemless design of these pieces exudes a contemporary All Purpose Wine Glasses
52
appearance that’s all the rage and definitely worth the risk. Additionally, since the delicate stems are no
If a single glass type is all that your circumstances
longer present in these glasses, less care ought to be
permit, an all purpose wine glass is the way to go.
required to maintain them.
Although the experience may not be the same
Stemless wine glasses are a required vessel in
as when you use the proper glass type for the
all wine lover’s cabinets. When refinement is less
application, these glasses offer a similar function at
important than simplicity, a stemless wine glass is a
a lower cost and increased efficiency. The bowl shape
great solution. If you’re hosting a party with a lot of
is in between that of red and white wine glasses,
guests, stemless wine glasses can go directly in the
making it acceptable for use with both types of wine.
dishwasher without the worry of stem breakage.
53
29
II | Wine History30
chapter
4
History
of
Wine
Today wine-making is a global industry, with most of the countries of the world producing wine. Machines that can harvest huge areas by day or night have increased production, and modern viticultural science has ensured that the resulting product meets uniform standards, though sometimes at the expense of quality and flavor.
Wine for Beginners
wine history
History of wine
production or consumption of wine, during its Golden Age, alchemists such as Geber pioneered wine’s distillation for medicinal and industrial
The history of wine spans thousands of years and is
purposes such as the production of perfume.
closely intertwined with the history of agriculture
The Turkish Uyghurs were even responsible for
and Western civilization. The first evidence of its
reĂŻntroducing viticulture to China from the Tang
cultivation is in China circa 7000 bce, then more
dynasty onwards.
widespread evidence is found soon thereafter in the
Wine production and consumption increased,
Near East, the grapevine and the alcoholic beverage
burgeoning from the 15th century onwards as part
produced from fermenting its juice were important to
of European expansion. Despite the devastating
Mesopotamia, Israel, and Egypt and essential aspects
1887 phylloxera lice infestation, modern science and
of Phoenician, Greek, and Roman civilization. Many
technology adapted and industrial wine production
of the major wine-producing regions of Western
and wine consumption now occur throughout all
Europe and the Mediterranean were first established
over the world. Archeological evidence suggests
during antiquity as great plantations. Winemaking
that grape cultivation and wine making began in
technology improved considerably during the time
Mesopotamia and areas surrounding the Caspian
of the Roman Empire: many grape varieties and
Sea sometime between 6000 and 4000 BCE. The
cultivation techniques were known; the design of the
drink was savored by royalty and priests, while
wine press advanced; and barrels were developed for
commoners drank beer, mead, and ale. The ancient
storing and shipping wine.
Egyptians, the first culture known to document the
The altered consciousness produced by wine has
process of wine making, preserved descriptions of
been considered religious since its origin. The Greeks
harvesting grapes and drinking wine on clay tablets,
worshipped Dionysus and Bacchus and the Romans
which have been discovered within the burial
carried on his cult. Consumption of ritual wine was
chambers of the social elite. Many Wine made its
part of Jewish practice since Biblical times and, as
way to Greece, where it permeated all aspects of
part of the eucharist commemorating Jesus’s Last
society: literature, mythology, medicine, leisure, and
Supper, became even more essential to the Christian
the religion.
Church. Although Islam nominally forbade the
58
59
wine history
Prehistory of wine
to c. 4100 BC, the site contained a wine press, fermentation vats, jars, and cups. Archaeologists also found V. vinifera seeds and vines. Commenting on
The origins of wine predate written records, and
the importance of the find, McGovern said, “The fact
modern archaeology is still uncertain about the
that winemaking was already so well developed in
details of the first cultivation of wild grapevines.
4000 BC suggests that the technology probably goes
Wild grapes grow in Georgia, the northern Levant,
back much earlier.”
coastal and southeastern Turkey, northern Iran, and
Domesticated grapes were abundant in the
Armenia. The fermenting of strains of this wild Vitis
Near East from the beginning of the early Bronze
vinifera subsp. sylvestris would have become easier
Age, starting in 3200 BC. There is also increasingly
following the development of pottery during the
abundant evidence for winemaking in Sumer and
later Neolithic, c. 11,000 BC. However, this history
Egypt in the 3rd millennium BC.
of the earliest evidence so far discovered dates from millennia afterwards.
60
Legends of Discovery
Patrick McGovern argued that the domestication
There are many etiological myths told about the first
of the wine grape and winemaking may have
cultivation of the grapevine and fermentation of
originated in what is now Georgia in the Caucasus and
wine. The Biblical Book of Genesis first mentions the
spread south from there.The earliest archaeological
production of wine following the Great Flood, when
evidence of wine production yet found has been at
Noah drunkenly exposes himself to his sons. The
sites in Georgia (c. 6000 BC)and Iran (c. 5000 BC).
resulting Curse of Ham was originally intended as a
The Iranian jars contained a form of retsina, using
justification for the Hebrew conquest of Canaan but
turpentine pine resin to more effectively seal and
was later adapted to explain black skin and African
preserve the wine. Production spread to other sites
slavery. Greek mythology placed the childhood
in Greater Iran and Grecian Macedonia by 4500 BC.
of Dionysus and his discovery of viticulture at
The Greek site is notable for the recovery at the site
the fictional and variably located Mount Nysa
of the remnants of crushed grapes.
but had him teach the practice to the peoples of
The oldest-known winery was discovered in the
central Anatolia. Because of this, he was rewarded
“Areni-1” cave in Vayots Dzor, Armenia. Dated
to become a god of wine. In Persian legend, King
history of wine
wine history
distinct wines, probably all produced in the Delta, constituted a canonical set of provisions for the afterlife. Wine in ancient Egypt was predominantly Jamshid banished a lady of his harem, causing her
red. Due to its resemblance to blood, much
to become despondent and contemplate suicide.
superstition surrounded wine-drinking in Egyptian
Going to the king’s warehouse, the woman sought
culture. Shedeh, the most precious drink in ancient
out a jar marked “poison” containing the remnants
Egypt, is now known to have been a red wine and not
of the grapes that had spoiled and were now deemed
fermented from pomegranates as previously thought
undrinkable. After drinking the fermented wine, she
as well.
found her spirits lifted. She took her discovery to
Plutarch’s Moralia relates that, prior to Psamme-
the king, who became so enamored of his new drink
tichus,[disambiguation needed the pharaohs did not
that he not only accepted the woman back but also
drink wine nor offer it to the gods “thinking it to be
decreed that all grapes grown in Persepolis would be
the blood of those who had once battled against the
devoted to the winemaking of history.
gods and from whom, when they had fallen and had
Ancient Egypt
become commingled with the earth, they believed vines to have sprung”. This was considered to be the
Wine played an important role in ancient Egyptian
reason why drunkenness “drives men out of their
ceremonial life. A thriving royal winemaking
senses and crazes them, inasmuch as they are then
industry was established in the Nile Delta following
filled with the blood of their forbears”.
the introduction of grape cultivation from the Levant
Residue from five clay amphoras in Tutankha-
to Egypt c. 3000 BC. The industry was most likely the
mun’s tomb, however, have been shown to be that of
result of trade between Egypt and Canaan during
white wine, so it was at least available to the Egyp-
the early Bronze Age, commencing from at least the
tians through trade if not produced domestically.
27th-century BC Third Dynasty, the beginning of the Old Kingdom period. Winemaking scenes on tomb Wine (mey) has been a theme of Persian poetry for millennia.
62
walls, and the offering lists that accompanied them, included wine that was definitely produced in the delta vinyards. By the end of the Old Kingdom, five
Grape cultivation, winemaking, and commerce in ancient Egypt c. 1500 BC
63
history of wine
wine history
The “Feast of the Wine” (Me-tu-wo Ne-wo) was a
the modern-day Lemnió varietal, a red wine with
Ancient China
festival in Mycenaean Greece celebrating the “Month
a bouquet of oregano and thyme. If so, this makes
of the New Wine”. Several ancient sources, such as
Lemnió the oldest known varietal still in cultivation.
Classical Chinese records show no knowledge of
the Roman Pliny the Elder, describe the ancient
Greek wine was widely known and exported
As recipients of winemaking knowledge from areas
Greek method of using partly dehydrated gypsum
throughout the Mediterranean, as amphoras with
to the east, the Phoenicians were instrumental in
before fermentation and some type of lime after, in
Greek styling and art have been found throughout
distributing wine, wine grapes, and winemaking
order to reduce the acidity of the wine. The Greek
the area. The Greeks may have even been involved
technology throughout the Mediterranean region
Theophrastus provides the oldest known description
in the first appearance of wine in ancient Egypt.They
through their extensive trade network. Their use of
of this aspect of Greek winemaking.
introduced the V. vinifera vine to and made wine in
Phoenicia
amphoras for transporting wine was widely adopted
In Homeric mythology, wine is usually served
and Phoenician-distributed grape varieties were
in “mixing bowls” rather than consumed in an
important in the development of the wine industries
undiluted state. Dionysus, the Greek god of revelry
of Rome and Greece.
and wine—frequently referred to in the works
The only Carthaginian recipe to survive the
of Homer and Aesop—was sometimes given the
Punic Wars was one by Mago for passum, a raisin
epithet Acratophorus, “giver of unmixed wine”.
wine that later became popular in Rome as well.
Homer frequently refers to the “wine-dark sea”
Ancient Greece Much of modern wine culture derives from the
64
their numerous colonies in modern-day Italy, Sicily southern France, and Spain.
the 7th-century BC lyrical poet Alcman, who praises
of the grapes grown in modern Greece are grown
Dénthis, a wine from the western foothills of Mount
there exclusively and are similar or identical to the
Taygetus in Messenia, as anthosmías. Chian was
varieties grown in ancient times. Indeed, the most
credited as the first red wine, although it was known
popular modern Greek wine, a strongly aromatic
to the Greeks as “black”. Coan was mixed with sea
white called retsina, is thought to be a carryover
water and famously salty; Pramnian or Lesbian wine
from the ancient practice of lining the wine jugs with
was a famous export as well. Aristotle mentions
tree resin, imparting a distinct flavor to the drink.
Lemnian wine, which was probably the same as
2nd and 1st millennia BC. Even the early production of beer had largely disappeared by the time of the Han dynasty, in favor of stronger drinks fermented from millet, rice, and other grains. Although these huangjiu have frequently been translated as “wine”, they are typically 20% ABV and considered quite
exploration of the Western Regions reached the Hellenistic successor states of Alexander’s empire: Dayuan, Bactria, and the Indo-Greek Kingdom. These had brought viticulture into Central Asia and trade permitted the first wine produced from
a boat can appear deep purple.
both the Minoan and Mycenaean cultures. Many
grapes” like V. thunbergii and V. filifolia during the
During the 2nd century BC, Zhang Qian’s
blue Greek sky, the Aegean Sea as seen from aboard The earliest reference to a named wine is from
have discovered production from native “mountain
distinct from grape wine within China.
(οἶνωψ πόντος, oīnōps póntos): under the intensely
practices of the ancient Greeks. The vine preceded
native production of grape wine, but archaeologists
V. vinifera grapes to be introduced to China.Wine was imported again when trade with the west was restored under the Tang dynasty, but it remained mostly imperial fare and it was not until the Song that its consumption spread among the gentry.Marco Polo’s 14th-century account noted the continuing preference for rice wines continuing in Yuan China.
Dionysus in a vineyard; late 6th-century BC amphora
65
history of wine
wine history
Medieval period
Holy Roman high nobility near Frankfurt, was the
as feedstock after advances in distillation by Muslim
first to plant Riesling, the most important German
alchemists allowed for the production of relatively
grape. The nearby winemaking monks made it into
In the Arabian peninsula before the advent of Islam,
pure ethanol, which was used in the perfume
an industry, producing enough wine to ship all over
wine was traded by Aramaic merchants, as the
industry. Wine was also for the first time distilled
Europe for secular use. In Portugal, a country with
climate was not well-suited to the growing of vines.
into brandy during this period.
one of the oldest wine traditions, the first appellation
Many other types of fermented drinks, however, were produced in the 5th and 6th centuries, including
Medieval Europe
date and honey wines.
system in the world was created. A housewife of the merchant class or a servant
In the Middle Ages, wine was the common drink
in a noble household would have served the wine at
The Muslim conquests of the 7th and 8th
of all social classes in the south, where grapes were
every meal, and had a selection of reds and whites
centuries brought many territories under Muslim
cultivated. In the north and east, where few if any
alike. Home recipes for meads from this period are
control. Alcoholic drinks were prohibited by law,
grapes were grown, beer and ale were the usual
still in existence, along with recipes for the spicing
but the production of alcohol, wine in particular,
beverages of both commoners and nobility. Wine
and masking flavors in wines, including the simple
seems to have thrived. Wine was a subject for many
was exported to the northern regions, but because of
act of adding a small amount of honey. As wines
poets, even under Islamic rule, and many khalifas
its relatively high expense was seldom consumed by
were kept in barrels, they were not extensively aged,
used to drink alcoholic beverages during their social
the lower classes. Since wine was necessary, however,
and thus drunk quite young. To offset the effects of
and private meetings.
for the celebration of the Catholic Mass, assuring a
heavy alcohol consumption, wine was frequently
Egyptian Jews leased vineyards from the Fatimid
supply was crucial. The Benedictine monks became
watered down at a ratio of four or five parts water to
and Mamluk governments, produced wine for
one of the largest producers of wine in France and
one of the wine.
sacramental and medicinal use, and traded wine
Germany, followed closely by the Cistercians.
One medieval application of wine was the use of
Other orders, such as the Carthusians, the
snake-stones dissolved in wine as a remedy for snake
Christian monasteries in the Levant and Iraq
Templars, and the Carmelites, are also notable both
bites, which shows an early understanding of the
often cultivated grapevines; they then distributed
historically and in modern times as wine producers.
effects of alcohol on the central nervous system in
their vintages in taverns located on monastery
The Benedictines owned vineyards in Champagne
such situations. Jofroi of Waterford, a 13th-century
grounds. Zoroastrians in Persia and Central Asia
(Dom
monk),
Dominican, wrote a catalogue of all the known
also engaged in the production of wine. Though
Burgundy, and Bordeaux in France, and in the
wines and ales of Europe, describing them with great
not much is known about their wine trade, they did
Rheingau and Franconia in Germany. In 1435 Count
relish and recommending them to academics and
become known for their taverns. Wine in general
John IV of Katzenelnbogen, a wealthy member of the
the counsellors.
through the Eastern Mediterranean.
66
found an industrial use in the medieval Middle East
Perignon
was
a
Benedictine
Monastic cellarer tasting wine, from Li Livres dou SantĂŠ (French manuscript, late 13th century)
67
history of wine
wine history
Modern era Spread and development European grape varieties were first brought to what is now Mexico by the first Spanish conquistadors to provide the necessities of the Catholic Holy Eucharist. Planted at Spanish missions, one variety came to be known as the Mission grape and is still planted today in small amounts. Succeeding waves of immigrants imported French, Italian and German grapes, although wine from those native to the Americas (whose flavors can be distinctly different) is also produced. Mexico became the most important wine producer starting in the 16th century, to the extent that its output began to affect Spanish commercial production. In this competitive climate, the Spanish king sent an executive order to halt Mexico’s production of wines and the planting of vineyards.
68
Today, wine in the Americas is often associated
for example, is now made from cows that graze on
and South Africa was often isolated from the world
with Argentina, California and Chile, all of which
Charentais soil, which was previously covered with
market because of apartheid. However, with the
produce a wide variety of wines, from inexpensive
vines. Cuvées were also standardized, important
increase in mechanization and scientific advances
jug wines to high-quality varietals and proprietary
in creating certain wines as they are known today;
in winemaking, these countries became known
blends. Most of the wine production in the Americas
Champagne and Bordeaux finally achieved the
for high-quality wine. A notable exception to the
is based on Old World grape varieties, and wine-
grape mixes that now define them. In the Balkans,
foregoing is that the Cape Province was the largest
growing regions there have often “adopted” grapes
where phylloxera had had little impact, the local
exporter of wine to Europe in the 18th century.
that have become particularly closely identified
varieties survived. However, the uneven transition
with them. California’s Zinfandel (from Croatia
from Ottoman occupation has meant only gradual
and Southern Italy), Argentina’s Malbec, and Chile’s
transformation in many vineyards. It is only in recent
Carmenère are well-known examples.
times that local varieties have gained recognition
Until the latter half of the 20th century, American wine was generally viewed as inferior to that of
beyond “mass-market” wines like retsina.
Europe. However, with the surprisingly favorable
Australia, New Zealand and South Africa
American showing at the Paris Wine tasting of 1976,
In the context of wine, Australia, New Zealand,
New World wine began to garner respect in the land
South Africa and other countries without a wine
of wine’s origins.
tradition are considered New World producers.
Developments in Europe
Wine production began in the Cape Province of what is now South Africa in the 1680s as a business for
During the devastating phylloxera blight in
In the late 19th century, the phylloxera louse
supplying ships. Australia’s First Fleet (1788) brought
late 19th-century Europe, it was found that native
brought widespread destruction to grapevines, wine
cuttings of vines from South Africa, although initial
American vines were immune to the pest. French
production, and those whose livelihoods depended
plantings failed and the first successful vineyards
American hybrid grapes were developed and saw
on them; far-reaching repercussions included
were established in the early 19th century. Until
some use in Europe, but more important was
the loss of many indigenous varieties. Lessons
quite late in the 20th century, the product of these
the practice of grafting European grapevines to
learned from the infestation led to the positive
countries was not well known outside their small
American rootstocks to protect vineyards from the
transformation of Europe’s wine industry. Bad
export markets. For example, Australia exported
insect. The practice continues to this day wherever
vineyards were uprooted and their land turned to
mainly to the United Kingdom; New Zealand
phylloxera is present.
better uses. Some of France’s best butter and cheese,
retained most of its wine for domestic consumption;
69
chapter
5
California’s Wine H istory Of all the wine growing regions of the United States, California has the richest history, though certainly still modest by the standards of Europe.
california’s wine history
wine history
History
Starting in the early 1830s, commercial viticulture in
In the 1850s and 1860s, Agoston Haraszthy, a
political dissident, Krug learned the trade of the
California was mostly based in Southern California.
Hungarian soldier, merchant and promoter, made
vintner as an apprentice to Haraszthy in the Sonoma
California’s first documented imported European
several trips to import cuttings from 165 of the
Valley. The land on which Krug founded his winery
California wine has a long and continuing history,
wine vines were planted in Los Angeles in 1833 by
greatest European vineyards to California. Some of
was part of his wife’s (Carolina Bale’s) dowry. Krug
and in the late twentieth century became recognized
Jean-Louis Vignes, the first commercial wine mak-
this endeavor was at his personal expense and some
became an important leader of winemaking in the
as producing some of the world’s finest wine. While
er in the state. William Wolfskill, another major
through grants from the state. Considered one of the
Napa Valley. He was also a mentor for Karl Wente,
wine history is made in all fifty U.S. states, up to 90%
early wine maker in California, purchased his first
founders of the California wine industry, Haraszthy
Charles Wetmore and Jacob Beringer, all of whom
(by some estimates) of American wine history is
vineyard in 1838 in the Los Angeles area. By 1858
contributed his enthusiasm and optimism for the
became important vintners.
produced in the state. California would be the fourth
he owned 55,000 vines across 145 acres. Vignes and
future of wine, along with considerable personal
In 1863, species of native American grapes
largest producer of wine in the world if it were an
Wolfskill were the two major figures in California
effort and risk. He founded Buena Vista Winery
were taken to Botanical Gardens in England.
independent nation.
wine making in the 1830s and 1840s. Their success
and promoted vine planting over much of Northern
These cuttings carried a species of root louse called
attracted others and increased interest in wine culti-
California. He dug extensive caves for cellaring,
phylloxera which attacks and feeds on the vine
vation in Southern California.
promoted hillside planting, fostered idea of non-
roots and leaves. Phylloxera is indigenous to North
irrigat vineyards and suggested redwood for casks
America and native vine varieties had developed
when oak supplies ran low.
resistance. European vines had no such evolutionary
Early Years
72
The first recorded planting of a vineyard was by the
The California Gold Rush (1848–1855) had a
Jesuit Missionary Eusebio Francisco Kino at San Bru-
major effect on the geography, economy, and history
no in 1683, but since the mission at San Bruno was
of wine growing in California. The Gold Rush
As home to both Buena Vista winery, California’s
protection. By 1865, phylloxera had spread to vines
abandoned about a year and a half after its founding,
brought an influx of people to Northern California,
oldest commercial winery, and Gundlach Bundschu
in Provence. Over the next 20 years, it inhabited and
the vineyard likely never matured or was harvested.
many of whom arrived and settled in San Francisco
winery, California’s oldest family-run winery, the
decimated nearly all the vineyards of Europe. Many
In 1779, Franciscan missionaries under the direc-
This resulted in a significant increase in demand for
Sonoma Valley is known as the birthplace of the
methods were attempted to eradicate phylloxera but
tion of Father Junípero Serra planted California’s
wine and spurred wine production in the area within
California wine industry.
all proved temporary and none economical.
first sustained vineyard at Mission San Diego. Father
100 miles of San Francisco. The 1850s saw planting
Although George Yount planted a small
Serra founded eight other missions before his death
and wine production expand in earnest in many
vineyard in Napa Valley in the mid-1830s, John
in 1784, these initially or eventually incorporating
parts of Northern California, including in Sutter
Patchett planted the first commercial vineyard in
vineyards. Hence, he has been called the “Father of
County, Yuba County, Butte County, Trinity County,
Napa Valley in 1854 and established the first winery
California Wine”. The variety he planted, presumably
El Dorado County, Lake County, Napa County,
there in 1858. In 1861 Charles Krug who previously
descended from earlier Mexican plantings, became
Sonoma County, Merced, and Stockton. Many of
had worked for Agoston Haraszthy and Patchett
known as the Mission grape and dominated Califor-
these are still major centers of wine cultivation and
founded his namesake winery in St. Helena and
nia wine production until about 1880.
the production.
began making his own wine. Originally a Prussian
73
california’s wine history
wine history
74
and non-beverage additive purposes, production
category. Before 1920, there were more than 2,500
dropped 94% from 1919 to 1925.
commercial wineries in the United States. Less than 100 survived as winemaking operations to 1933. By
Prohibition
Repeal
The destruction of the American wine industry
Even after Repeal of Prohibition, several states
had 713 bonded wineries before Prohibition; it took
would come not from phylloxera but from
stayed dry: Kansas until 1948, Oklahoma until 1957,
more than half a century, until 1986, before that
Prohibition in the United States. Thirty-three
and Mississippi until 1966. Seventeen states chose
many were again operating.
states had gone dry at the outbreak of World War I.
to establish monopoly liquor stores with limited
Prohibition left a legacy of distorting the role
Wartime Prohibition was enacted in 1919, followed
selections. Today 10% of the US area and 6% of the
of alcohol in American life and ruining a fledgling
by the Volstead National Prohibition Act and the
population remain dry.
world-class wine industry, which took decades of
1960, that number had grown to only 271. California
18th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution in 1920,
Anticipating Repeal, speculators and others
work to overcome. Research at the University of
forbidding the “manufacture, sale, or transportation
soon flooded the legal market with quickly and
California at Davis and Fresno State University
of intoxicating liquors.”
poorly made wine. Dilettantes published books
greatly assisted the new breed of vintners who
Through a loophole allowing each home
and articles warning Americans about rigid rules
arrived in California in the 1960s and who were
to “make 200 gallons of non-intoxicating cider
that must be followed to serve the proper wine with
committed to producing the wine of the highest level
and fruit juice per year,” thousands of otherwise
the proper food from the proper glass at the proper
of the international standards.
law-abiding citizens became home winemakers and
temperature. Faced with low quality products with
bootleggers. Prices for fresh grapes shot up, because
which to risk committing social blunders and while
of the increased demand and a railroad shortage of
remaining uncertain about the social acceptance of
refrigerated freight cars in which to ship them.
any alcohol, most Americans stayed away.
Wine Revolution André Tchelistcheff is generally credited with ushering in the modern era of winemaking in
Growers began replanting fine wine variety
The only group of wines that sold well were the
California. Beaulieu Vineyards (BV) founder and
vineyards to juice grape varieties that shipped well.
fortified dessert wines. Taxed at the lower rate of
owner Georges de Latour hired Tchelisticheff in
The massive plantings produced a constant surplus
wine as opposed to distilled spirits, but with 20%
1938. He introduced several new techniques and
of low-quality grapes that persisted until 1971. By
alcohol, this group made the cheapest intoxicant
procedures, such as aging wine in small French Oak
the time of National Repeal, effective December
available. Before 1920, table wines accounted for 3 of
barrels, cold fermentation, vineyard frost prevention,
5, 1933, the industry was in ruins. Although some
every 4 gallons shipped. After 1933, fortified wines
and malolactic fermentation.
wineries managed to survive by obtaining permits
were 3 of every 4 gallons shipped. It was not until
to make wines used for medicinal, sacramental
1968 that table wines sales finally overtook fortified
75
wine for beginners
wine history
did the region’s reputation. Some California wine makers began to produce quality wines but still had difficulty marketing them. Frank Schoonmaker, a
76
Brother Timothy; a member of Institute of the
prominent journalist and wine writer of the 1950s
Brothers of the Christian Schools was also very in-
and 1960s introduced the German idea of labeling
strumental in creation of the modern wine industry.
wines using varietal (Pinot noir, Chardonnay,
After an earlier career as a teacher, he transferred to
Riesling) rather than semi-generic names borrowed
the order’s Mont La Salle located on Mount Veeder
from famous European regions (Burgundy, Chablis,
in the Mayacamas Mountains west of Napa in 1935
Rhine, etc.). Robert Mondavi was one of the first to
to become the wine chemist for the order’s expand-
label the majority of his wines by varietal names and
ing wine operations. The Christian Brothers had
was tireless in promoting the practice.
grown grapes and made sacramental wine in Beni-
By the late 1960s and early 1970s, the quality of
cia, California during Prohibition, but decided to
some vintners’ wines was outstanding but few took
branch out into commercial production of wine and
notice. On May 24, 1976, a blind tasting was held in
brandy following the repeal of Prohibition. The sci-
Paris with a panel made up exclusively of French wine
ence teacher was a fast learner and soon established
experts. After comparing six California Chardonnays
Christian Brothers as one of the leading brands in
with four French Chardonnays, three of the top four
the state’s budding wine industry; Brother Timothy’s
were Californian. Six of the nine judges ranked
smiling face in advertisements and promotional ma-
Chateau Montelena the highest; Chalone Vineyard
terials became one of the most familiar images for
came in third and Spring Mountain Vineyard fourth.
wine consumers across the country.
When reds were evaluated, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars
In 1965, Napa Valley icon Robert Mondavi
was ranked number one. This competition, now
broke away from his family’s Charles Krug estate
known as the “Judgement of Paris”, focused a great
to found his own in Oakville, California. It was the
deal of attention on wines from the Napa Valley.
first new large-scale winery to be established in
The red wines evaluated in 1976 were retasted
the valley since before prohibition. Following the
in two separate blind tastings (the French Culinary
establishment of the Mondavi estate, the number
Institute Wine Tasting of 1986 and the Wine
of wineries in the valley continued to grow, as
Spectator Wine Tasting of 1986) and also in The
77
california’s wine history
wine history
Wine Rematch of the Century. In all retastings, a
south, the Santa Ynez valley in the central coast,
California red was chosen first, while the French
and in the Red Hills Lake County in the north. In
wines lost positions in the rankings.
the early 21st century, vintners have begun reviving
In Oz Clarke’s New encyclopedia of Wine, Mr. Clarke writes that California “was the catalyst and
heirloom grape varieties, such as Trousseau Gris and the Valdiguié.
then the locomotive for change that finally prised
The Californian wine industry has had a long
open the ancient European wineland’s rigid grip
history of employing migrant workers to tend to
on the hierarchy of quality wine and led the way in
the vineyards and assist at harvest time. Its close
proving that there are hundreds if not thousands of
proximity to Mexico has opened the possibility
places around the world where good to great wine
to some of those workers being classified as
can be made.” He observes that “until the exploits
undocumented or illegal. Karen Ross, president
of California’s modern pioneers of the 1960s and
of the California Association of Winegrowers, has
‘70’s, no-one had ever before challenged the right of
estimated that as of 2007 the number could be as
Europe’s, and in particular, France’s vineyards, to be
high as 70% of the employees in the California
regarded as the only source of the great wine in all
wine industry may be illegal. New immigration
over the world.”
regulations announced by the Department of
Fred Franzia and his Bronco Wine Company has
Homeland Security required all employers to fire
caused recent waves in the business of California
illegal workers or face paying a fine up to $10,000 for
wine marketing. The company’s low priced Charles
each infraction. In August, following a lawsuit by the
Shaw wine which is sold exclusively by Trader Joe’s
AFL-CIO union, a federal judge placed a restraining
markets along with the company’s other labels have
order on the enactment of the new regulations
attracted new entry level wine consumers to the fold
pending further review. Industry experts predict
but also has alienated many of the smaller vintners
substantial changes will come into the Californian
in the state by placing some downward pressure on
wine industry as results of the changing labor and
the pricing.
immigration laws which will result in higher prices
Newer
regions,
producing
award-winning
for all the consumers in the public market.
wines, have entered the California wine industry, including Temecula Valley wine country in the
78
79
wine for beginners
80
81
chapter
6
Wine
in
China
For Chinese drinks sometimes translated as “wine� but not made from fermented grapes, see huangjiu and Chinese alcoholic beverages.
wine in china
wine history
this relatively recent occurrence coincided with
Bronze Age China, however, it was replaced by
the increased popularity of French wine in China.
consumption of a range of alcoholic beverages made
Other companies, including China Great Wall Wine
Wine has a long history in China. Although long
from sorghum, millet, rice, and fruits such as lychee
Co, Ltd, Suntime and Changyu, have also risen
overshadowed by the stronger huangjiu (sometimes
or Asian plum. It was not until the Han Dynasty that
in prominence, and by 2005, 90% of grape wine
translated as "yellow wine") and the much stronger
the ancient Chinese became reacquainted with (or
produced was consumed locally.
distilled spirit baijiu, wine consumption has grown
at least left a literary record of) the consumption of
Also, as globalization has brought China onto
dramatically since the economic reforms of the
grape wines (via Zhang Qian’s travels from 139 to
the international economic scene, so too has its
1980s and China is now numbered among the top ten
125 BCE in Central Asia), and not until the Tang
winemaking industry come onto the international
global markets for wine. Ties with French producers
Dynasty that consumption of these wines became
wine scene. China has a long tradition of the
are especially strong and vinyards in Ningxia have
more common.
fermentation and distillation of Chinese wine,
received international recognition.
84
If grape wine consumption was once present in
Modern Chinese Wine
including all alcoholic beverages and not necessarily grape wine, but is one of the most recent participants
History
French wine was the first foreign wine imported
in the globalization of wine that started years ago
The history of Chinese grape wine has been dated
into China. In 1980, at the beginning of Chinese
in Paris, when several countries such as Canada
back more than 4,600 years. In 1995, there is a joint
economic reform, RĂŠmy Martin ventured into China
realized that they may be able to produce wines as
Sino-USA archeology team including archaeologists
to set up the first joint-venture enterprise in Tianjin:
good as most French wine.
from the Archeology Research Institute of Shandong
the Dynasty Wine Ltd., which was also the second
Quite recently, Chinese grape wine has begun
University and American archaeologists under the
joint-venture enterprise in China. Over the years,
appearing on shelves in California and in Western
leadership of Professor Fang Hui investigated the
the company developed over 90 brands of alcoholic
Canada. While some critics have treated these wines
two archaeological sites 20 km to the northeast of
beverages, and its products won numerous awards
with the same type of disregard with which Chilean
Rizhao, and discovered the remnants of a variety
both domestically and abroad.
and Australian wines were once treated, others have
of alcoholic beverages including grape wine, rice
However, most of its products were exported
recognized a new frontier with the potential to yield
wine, mead, and several mixed beverages of these
abroad in the first two decades due to the low
some interesting finds. Others have simply taken
wines. Out of more than two hundred ceramic pots
income of the local population, and it was not until
notice that China is producing drinkable table wines
discovered at the sites, seven were specifically used
after the year 2000 when the economic boom finally
comparable to wines from other countries. Among
for grape wine. Remnants of all the grape seeds were
provided the domestic population with sufficient
the latest developments is the production of organic
also discovered.
disposable income to support the domestic market;
wine in Inner Mongolia.
85
wine for beginners
wine history
Market trends China (including Hong Kong) is among the top ten
of water equal to the juice and desired portion of
Shanxi, and Ningxia. The largest producing region is
sugar, until the volume of the mixture is down to the
Yantai-Penglai; with over 140 wineries, it produces
original volume of the juice, then stored in clay urns
40% of China’s wine.
together with folk recipes varying by localities in
wine markets in the world, having been described
In 2008, wine merchant Berry Brothers and
some counties, traditional Uighur herbal medicines,
as the world’s fifth and seventh-largest wine market
Rudd predicted that within 50 years the quality of
and goji, mulberries, sea-buckthorn, cloves, etc. in
in sales, account for both domestic and imported
Chinese wine will rival that of Bordeaux.
others, and even raw and unfeathered pheasants
brands. Sales in 2011 were estimated to be 1.6 billion
86
Hebei, Yibin in Sichuan, Tonghua in Jilin, Taiyuan in
or poussin in others. The brew usually takes more
bottles. The top two markets, the United States
Xinjiang Region
and France, had sales in 2011 of 4.0 and 3.9 billion
China’s Xinjiang Autonomous Region have an
filtered and bottled to be storred for long periods. In
bottles, respectively.
than a month to accomplish. It is then un-urned,
ancient history of viticulture going back to around
some villages, the ritual of communally gathering a
The Chinese wine market has experienced a
the 4th Century BC, when Greek settlers brought
mixture of folk museles brews in a large village urn
20% annualized growth rate between 2006 and
the vine and more advanced irrigation techniques.
marks the occasion following the harvest and process
2011, and is forecast to grow by another 54% by
The area around Turfan was, and still is, particularly
of grapes. Museles is now being standardized by the
2015. Currently, per-capita wine consumption in the
noted for its grape production, and production of
wine producing industry in China and marketed
country is only 0.35 liters.
grape wines is mentioned in the historical record
under the brand-name of Merceles.
In 2009, Sotheby’s reported that Hong Kong had
as well; Marco Polo mentioned that Carachoco (the
become the world’s largest market for fine wines
name he used for Turfan) produced fine grape wines.
Recent Success of Ningxia Wine
at auction, surpassing previous leaders New York
The modern wine industry is largely patterned after
The Ningxia province has also been in the limelight
City, and London. As of 2012, a small number of
French methods with a concentration on varieties
for its high quality wines. After a red wine won the
large companies, such as Changyu Pioneer Wine,
like Cabernet. However, the Uighur traditional
Decanter trophy in May 2011, on 14 December
China Great Wall Wine Co., Ltd. and the Dynasty
technique has survived especially in counties
2011 in Beijing, in a competition tagged “Bordeaux
Wine Ltd., dominate domestic production. The total
surrounding Kashgar. The Uighur home-made wine
against Ningxia”, experts from China and France
production of wine in 2004 was 370 thousand tons,
generally called “museles” is still being brewed by
tasted five wines from each region. Ningxia was the
a 15% increase from the previous year. The total
households in many villages. Unlike wines west of
clear winner with four out of five of the top wines.
market grew 58% between 1996 and 2001, and 68%
Xinjiang, the brewing of museles requires crushing
The best of all was the 2009 Chairman’s Reserve, a
between 2001 and 2006. Notable wine-producing
of local varieties of grapes by hand, then strained
Cabernet Sauvignon from the Grace Vinyards.
regions include Beijing, Yantai, Zhangjiakou in
using the Uighur atlas silk, then boiled with amount
87
wine in china
wine history
Domestic consumption Products and Availability Most medium to large restaurants, regardless of
and is usually used as a table wine. In 2005, 80% of vineyards produce red wine and 20% of vineyards produce white wine, while 90% of wine consumed as of 2007 is red wine.
the fare, sell wine by the bottle, usually only red.
Method of Consumption
Generally, only high-end restaurants serve wine by
Both red and white wines are commonly served
the glass. Wine sold by the bottle is also available at
chilled. The wine may be poured into ordinary wine
large KTV establishments, and major hotels.
glasses in tiny amounts, or very small, glass baijiu
Since around 2008, many small convenience
glasses. When served at a table with more than two
stores have begun to carry a small selection of
people, similar to the style of drinking baijiu, it is
wines, with specialty wine shops emerging in cities
typically consumed during a group toast, and often
throughout the country. These specialize in both
with the entire glass being finished at once. This
foreign and domestic brands. Meanwhile, major
is particularly true when served during all of the
supermarkets have steadily increased their selection,
restaurant meals.
from several domestic brands, to a wide variety of wines from around the world. Among these are sweetened, flavoured wines. These are made of a mixture of grape wine and a sweetened, flavoured drink similar to Kool-aid. These wines have similar labels to genuine wines, have an alcohol content of approximately 6%, and are much lower in price. Demographics and Preferences Statistics show that the main market for white wine is among females, who prefer it over beer, still the main alcoholic beverage for most males; red wine has become a symbol of the elite and rich
88
Nverhong, which means Daughter Wine, Girl Wine, which were prepared buried under the ground when daughters born, and when their daughters got married, these wine would be used to celebrate the wedding.
89
chapter
7
Spacial Wine
in
Asian
For Chinese drinks sometimes translated as “wine� but not made from fermented grapes, see huangjiu and Chinese alcoholic beverages.
spacial sine in asian
wine history
Snake wine
Snake blood wine is prepared by slicing a snake
Medicinal value
along its belly and draining its blood directly into the
Snakes are widely believed to possess medicinal
drinking vessel filled with rice wine or grain alcohol.
qualities and the wine is often advertised to cure
Snake wine is an alcoholic beverage produced by
Snake bile wine is done through a similar method by
everything from farsightedness to hair loss, as well
infusing whole snakes in rice wine or grain alcohol.
using the contents of the gall bladder.
as to increase sexual performance. In Vietnam,
The drink was first recorded to have been consumed
snake wine (Rượu rắn) is widely believed by some
in China during the Western Zhou dynasty and
History
considered an important curative and believed
Snakes and their tissue portions have long been
drink is made with geckos or sea horses rather
to reinvigorate a person according to Traditional
considered by followers of Traditional Chinese
than snakes.Snake wine, due to its high alcohol
Chinese medicine. It can be found in China,
medicine to be invaluable for the promotion of
percentage, is drunk in short glasses traditionally.
Vietnam and throughout Southeast Asia. The snakes,
vitality and health. The drink was first recorded to be
Braver drinkers may eat certain parts of the snake
preferably venomous ones, are not usually preserved
used in China during the Western Zhou dynasty (771
or snakes such as the gall bladder, the eyeballs and
for their meat but to have their “essence” and snake
BC) and the medicinal use of snakes was noted in the
stomach. It is illegal to import snake wine to many
venom dissolved in the liquor. However, the snake
medical manual Shen nong ben cao jing compiled
countries because the cobras and other snakes killed
venom is denatured by the ethanol; its proteins are
between 300 B.C. and 200 A.D. The detailed use of
in the production are often endangered species.
unfolded and therefore inactive.The Huaxi street
various snake species, their body parts, and various
night market of Taipei, Taiwan, is renowned for its
preparations were greatly elaborated in the medical
snake foods and wine products.
manual Bencao Gangmu of Li Shizhen in the Ming
Varieties of Snake Wine
individuals to improve health and virility. A similar
dynasty. Snake wine can be found in many areas of Vietnam, Southeast Asia and Southern China.
Steeped A large venomous snake can be placed into a glass jar of rice wine, sometimes with smaller snakes and medicinal herbs and left to steep for many months. The wine is drunk as a restorative in small shots or cups. Mixed Body fluids of snake are mixed into wine and consumed immediately in the form of a shot.
92
93
spacial sine in asian
wine history
the meat of pythons and pit vipers. It is likely that
quality for treating chronic skin problems. As a
the skin and inward to the viscera.” It was noted in
the more widespread use of snakes for food and
result, snake skin and whole snake are used in the
Illustrated Materia Medica that “Agkistrodon has
medicine during the Tang period derived from
treatment of skin diseases.
This application is
a quicker effect in treating wind syndrome than
the Indian culture. The Tang Dynasty period is
similar to the use of sloughed cicada skin for treating
that of other snakes.” Several records in Chinese
Among the earliest recorded use of snakes in Chinese
especially known for its willingness to accept foreign
skin ailments. Acne, carbuncles, itching skin, and
medical books indicate that snake slough is useful
medicine was the application of sloughed snake skin,
influences, including those from India and Arabia
psoriasis are examples of conditions that may
for malignant sores, such as mammary abscess and
described in the Shen Nong Ben Cao Jing (ca. 100
(in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia, many animal
respond to snake skin. Snake skin is also considered
tumor, boils, carbuncles, and furuncles. The slough
A.D.) It was originally applied in the treatment of
substances were used as medicine). There are at least
useful in reducing clouding (nebula) of the cornea,
is usually roasted and then used both internally and
superficial diseases, including skin eruptions, eye
three features of snakes that capture the attention of
the “skin” of the eyes.
infections or opacities, sore throat, and hemorrhoids.
traditional healers: they have an incredible flexibility
The use of snake gallbladder is first recorded in
and speed, they shed their skin, and certain snakes
when they bite and this is due to the presence of
Ming Yi Bie Lu (Transactions of Famous Physicians;
are extremely poisonous when they bite.
neurotoxins. They are then used medically by oral
The Medicinal Use of Snakes
94
Poisonous
animals
often
cause
paralysis
compiled by Tao Hongjing, and written around 520
The flexibility of snakes has suggested that they
administration (which greatly reduces the toxicity)
A.D.), which was an update of the Shen Nong herbal
might be helpful in the treatment of stiffness, for
for the treatment of convulsions (by inhibiting intense
with double the number of ingredients. In addition
example, arthritis. Two types of snakes, agkistrodon
muscle contractions). Also, some forms of paralysis
to the gallbladder, the skin (fanpi) and the meat of
and zaocys, are currently used in several traditional
are “tonic” in nature, that is, due to overcontraction
a pit viper (Agkistrodon halys; fanshe), were also
and patent prescriptions for arthritis, and they are
of muscles, and in such cases the nerve toxins can
described. They were used to treat skin diseases,
sometimes soaked in alcohol to make an extract for
overcome paralysis. Agkistrodon (but not zaocys)
pain, and intestinal hemorrhage.
stiff joints. The speed with which some snakes move
is a poisonous snake used for epilepsy and paralysis.
Other species of snakes were also mentioned in
indicated to traditional observers that, as medicines,
Scorpions and millipedes (scolopendra) are used
the medical literature: zaocys, the non-toxic black-
their substance can move quickly around the body.
similarly. Anti-convulsive activity is also ascribed to
striped snake (wushaoshe) was described in Yao
Snakes are said to treat “wind” syndromes, which
snake skin and cicada skin.
Xing Ben Cao by Zhen Quan (ca. 600 A.D.), and
likewise tend to move around quickly. However,
In the Ben Cao Gang Mu (1590 A.D.) by Li
the toxic white-patterned pit viper, agkistrodon
people are also cautioned not to consume snake wine
Shizhen, it was said that “Agkistrodon penetrates
(A. acutus, baihuashe or qishe) was described in
when exposed to potentially pathologic wind, as the
the bone to expel the pathogenic wind and alleviate
Kai Bao Ben Cao by Mai Zhi in 973 A.D. Among
rapid movement of the snake medicine may aid the
convulsion and is the essential material for wind
the earliest records of using snakes for food come
initial penetration of wind. The fact that snakes shed
arthralgia, convulsion, scabies and malignant
from the Tang Dynasty (618–907 A.D.), including
their skin has suggested that they have a regenerative
scabies—because it travels everywhere, outward to
95
spacial sine in asian
wine basics
topically.Snake bile has long been valued as a tonic,
the official recipe for the mixture is 1 part snake bile
characterized as such by its sweet aftertaste. It is used
added to 6 parts fritillaria powder (dry, and pulverize
to make a special health drink at snake restaurants
the mixture); the dosage is just 300–600 mg at a
(which are today still found in southern China,
time, 2–3 times per day. The antitussive action of
Hong Kong, and Taiwan). The bile of a snake to be
bile from one snake tested, Hydrophis cyanocinctus,
eaten is mixed with some rice wine and consumed
is one-ninth that of codeine when assayed in mice
before the meal as an invigorating beverage and
(adult human codeine dosage for treating cough is
appetite stimulant. In the treatment of diseases,
20–30 mg). Snake bile is collected in spring and
snake bile is used for whooping cough, rheumatic
summer when the content of solids is highest. Snake
pain, high fever, infantile convulsion, hemiplegia,
gallbladder is sometimes combined with pinellia
hemorrhoids, gum bleeding, and skin infections.
or citrus to produce an antitussive and phlegm-
One of the best known remedies using snake
96
resolving powder for treatment of acute bronchitis.
bile is San She Dan Chuan Bei Mu, or the mixture
The bile from two snakes, Naja naja and
of three snake gallbladders plus the herb fritillaria (F.
Ophiophagus hannah show 11 bands in thin layer
thunbergii). It is made as a powder or a liquid; only
chromatography, while the bile from most other
the powder is imported to the West. The three snake
snakes show only 8 of those bands, indicating
gallbladders are usually derived from agkistrodon
unique medicinal ingredients in the cobra.
and zaocys species, but there are numerous
the snakes contain cholic acid but not deoxycholic
substitute species used in the marketplace. In fact,
acid or lithocholic acid. In the marketplace, snake
a major active component—the bile acid known as
gallbladders are sometimes substituted by those of
taurocholic acid—was analyzed in the 16 species of
geese, ducks, and chickens. These gallbladders have
snakes now traded commonly and in 8 samples of
a different form that can be easily distinguished by
snake bile and fritillaria liquids. The highest level of
those who make the effort to do so; further, the TLC
this component was in the bile from a species of Naja
profile of the bile from these substitutes is entirely
snake (a cobra), and the lowest was in zaocys; among
different from that of the snakes, and the bile from
the cough remedies, the cholic acid concentration
fowl do not produce the sweet aftertaste common to
varied from .025 to .069 mg/ml, which is nearly a
the snake bile. Snakes are also used in the treatment
three-fold range. In the Chinese Pharmacopoeia,
of cancer.
All
The small agkistrodon is a common
97
wine for beginners
wine history
98
ingredient in modern treatments, especially for
accompanied by a suitable certificate indicating the
leukemia. A combination of Agkistrodon halys and
origins of the snakes. Further, the FDA has restricted
Natrix trigrina, in the form of a powder, is used as
import of many liquid preparations, including the
an adjunct to herbal decoctions and drugs to treat
liquid forms of snake bile.
hepatoma. Snake venom is also sometimes used
Unfortunately, the use of snake materials may be
as medicine; recent research has shown that snake
virtually eliminated in the West, because most Chi-
venom may have value in treating cardiovascular
nese suppliers are not otherwise compelled to spend
diseases. Blood pressure reducing and anticoagulant
time and effort certifying the origins of the materials.
properties have been identified, and are especially
The U.S. market for snake materials is very small. In
prevalent in the vipers.
fact, aside from Chinese doctors working in the U.S.
Most of the snakes are now raised, but the
and prescribing the materials directly, ITM has been
materials on the market place come from a variety
one of the only producers of formulas that utilize
of sources, including those collected in the wild.
snake materials. These formulas include a treat-
Agkistrodon is now derived mainly from Bungarus
ment for gallbladder disorders, for skin itching, for
multicinctus, but also B. fasciatus, Natrix annularis,
arthralgia and hypertension, and for recovery from
Enhydris chinensis and E. plubea, and Dinodon
surgery; all together, only about 60 pounds of snake
rufozonatum. Zaocys is mainly derived from Z.
and 40 pounds of snake gallbladder are needed for a
dhumnades, but also from Dinodon rufozonatum,
one year supply of these formulas. China’s total pro-
Elaphe carinata, E. rufodosata, and E. taeniura,
duction of snake for medicine is measured in tons.
Natrix annularis and N. stolata, Ptyas korros and P.
One means of helping to preserve snakes is to
mucosus. Snake bile is obtained from sources such
use the snake materials in powder form rather than
as Naja naja atra, Bungarus fasciatus, Elaphe radiata,
using them in decoctions. The powdered snake is
Ptyas korros, and Zaocys dhumnades. Because
usually recommended in dosages that are about
there are some snakes that are now endangered
1/3 to 1/6 that for decoction of the same materials,
species, and because the snakes or their isolated
probably because decoction poorly extracts some
bladders are not easily identified by officials, the
active components and damages others.
U.S. Wildlife Department has restricted import of
alcohol extraction is considered acceptable and
all snake medicinal materials unless the shipment is
allows use of small doses as well.
Cold Snake wine is a bottle of rice wine with a venomous snake inside.
99
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Gates, Henry Louis, and Nellie Y. McKay, eds. The Norton
“Types of Wine Glasses.” Restaurant Supply. N.p., n.d.
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101
index
Index A
Broke 4, 64, 96, 154
Cocktails 41
Economic 84, 121
Good will 70, 77
H
Marshalled 48
p
Recovery – 126, 127, 164
Twenty four hours – 16, 86
Acceptance – 14, 30, 207
Broken 8
Cocky 68
Economics 2, 17
Gooseflesh 54
Happiness – 17, 128-129
Martyr 79
Perfection – 60, 123, 126
Reprieve, Daily – 85
Tolerance – 28, 66-67, 70
Admission – 25, 72-73
Broker 2
Code 45, 84
Education 56, 93, 117
Gorge 56
Higher Power – 12, 28, 30
Marvelous 6, 134
Prayer – 63, 66, 67, 70, 75
Resentment – 64, 552
Trouble – 35, 55, 131, 133
Aloneness – 17, 89
Brokerage 4, 5
Coffee 135
Effective 19, 25, 43, 135
Gossip 125
Honesty – 58, 64, 67, 70
Mass 54
Patience – 67-70, 82, 90
Ambition – 68, 72, 77
Brotherhood 11
Collapse 6, 50
Effectiveness 84
Grace of God 25
Hope - 44, 45, 73, 163
Master 98
Promises – 63, 75, 83-84
S
Amends – 77, 82-83
Brother-in-law 7
Collapsed 56
Efficient 88
Gracious 61
H.O.W. - 549
Mastered 66, 85
Patterns 22, 138
Sanity – 22-23, 84-85, 551
Anger – 60, 61, 64, 66
Build 21, 47, 63
Combating 7, 101
Grant 76
Humility – 12, 13, 25, 63
Material 48, 49, 51
Paul 136
Selfishness – 62
U
Arrogance – 60, 61
Building 75, 123
Combined 7, 22
F
Grasping 58
Materialize 84
Pause 87, 119
Self-knowledge – 7, 36
Understanding – 568
Built 56
Companions 104
Faith – 14, 15, 48, 49, 52,
Grateful 53, 128
I
Material needs 98
Pay 78, 99, 129
Self-pity – 60-61
Unity – 17, 25
B
Bull 156
Complete 12, 24, 52, 59
Family Relationships – 68
Good Samaritan 97
Identification – 17, 93
Material world 49
Peace 16, 63, 75, 84
Self-Will – 60, 62, 84
Bore 13, 151-152
Bums 106
Fear – 67-68, 115, 116
Good will 70, 77
Illness – 22, 23, 30, 84-85
Penalty 99
Serenity – 63-64, 68, 553
W
Boring 126, 152
Burden 117, 132
D
Financial – 98, 127
Gooseflesh 54
Inventory – 25, 64-65, 69
N
Paradoxically 68
Service – 14-15, 77, 101
Weak – 20, 72, 115, 120
Boss 11, 36, 136
Bury 123
Depression – 15, 67-68
Forgiveness – 70, 80
Gorge 56
Insanity – 30, 37, 38, 57
Newcomers – 83, 93, 96
Paralyzing 18, 116
Sex – 68-69, 70, 83, 99-100
Will – 44-45, 48, 52-53, 55
Disease – 21, 23, 416
Female alcoholic 33
Gossip 125
Paramount 67, 90
Slips – 70, 72-73, 120, 139
Willingness – 12-13, 26
Bothered 45
102
Trust God – 98 Twenty four hours – 16, 86
Bottles 5, 22, 32, 101
C
Fences 35
Grace of God 25
M
O
Parents 4, 18, 74, 115, 158
Slogans - 135
Whoopee – 101
Bottom 75
Complacency – 82
E
Fettered 51
Gracious 61
Meditation – 86-87, 164
Open Mind – 12, 46-49
Parties 31, 99, 101, 146
Sponsorship – 15-18, 25
Wondered
Bounds 129, 152
Compassion – 108
Easy Does It – 13
Feuds 15, 78
Grant 76
Membership – 28
Originated
Partners 41, 80
Spiritual Living – 46, 51
Wonderful 17, 61, 100
Bout 23, 52
Courage – 67, 68
Envy – 68, 77
Grasping 58
Management 2
N
Pass 9, 87, 94, 99, 164
Spiritual principles – 42
Wonderfully 47
Brawl 4
Compassion – 108
Eagerness 96
G
Grateful 53, 128
Manager 136, 149
New York 9, 41
Bridge 53, 56
Courage – 67, 68
Earnestness 16, 37, 58
Gratitude – 132
Gratify 144
Manifested 64, 130
Night 2, 3, 6, 8, 21, 41
R
T
Work xiii, 4, 14, 19, 25, 26
Brief 12, 30, 31, 57
Closed 4, 27
Earth 130
Growth – 33, 63
Grave 33, 58
Mankind 11, 48
Nightclubs 101
Rationalization – 64-65
Temptation – 14-15, 85
Workouts 117
Bright 21, 89, 132
Closer 110
Easier 118
Golf 3
Great Fact 164
Manual 3
Nightmare 73
Recovery – 126, 127, 164
Tolerance – 28, 66-67, 70
World 2, 20, 46, 48, 51
Bristle 48
Clothes 2, 58
Easy Does It 135
Good xxiv, 14, 19, 26, 48
Great Reality 55, 161
Manuscript 133
Nil 58
Reprieve, Daily – 85
Trouble – 35, 55, 131, 133
Worldliness 16
Broad 55, 75
Cock-Sureness 6
Eat 102
Good Samaritan 97
Gorge 59
Married 39, 69
Nominal 42
Rationalization – 64-65
Trust God – 98
Worldly 13, 50, 128
9
Wording 63
103
This book was designed by Qianwen Zhang on April 2,2014 in California, Unite State. The types are Minion pro & Copperplate the paper is ProLine Pearl Photo the press in California. The photos contained in this book are not official and are intended for school project purposes only. The sources of this list can be found at The Phobia List: www.photolist.com and List of Photos: www. fearintofreedom.com
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