Where Magazine New Orleans April 2024

Picasso

Mr. Brainwash

Jose Basso

Rembrandt

LIBERATION PAVILION NEW

Explore how the war continues to impact our lives today through this three-story exhibit hall highlighting the end of World War II, The Holocaust, and The Postwar Years

LIBERATION PAVILION

Featuring exhibits on the Holocaust, Anne Frank, the Monuments Men and Women, the postwar campaign for freedom and human rights. Don't miss the new Freedom Theater

New SPECIAL EXHIBITION

on the 350,000 American women who served their country in World War II

#1 Attraction in New Orleans

presented by the Gayle and Tom Benson Charitable Foundation

Warhol,Picasso,Murakami,Miro,Mas,Lalonde,Kondakova,Standish,Kostabi,Hofmann,

14

17

On the Beat

Heading out to Jazzfest?

Take a slight detour and explore Esplanade Ridge.

18

Put It in Park

Four fantastic greenspace getaways in the heart of the city.

19

New Eats in Old Metairie

Standout share plates, crispy calamari, rooftop caviar fries—yes, yes and yes, please.

BAM! E.J. Lagasse steers his father’s agship in a new direction.

Chef patron E.J. Lagasse in the recently retooled kitchen at Emeril’s. ©FOOD STORY MEDIA

IEDITOR’S NOTE

APRIL

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

n a city built on 300-plus years of ercely held tradition, change is not easily accepted. Take last year’s New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, when o cials announced Panorama Foods would, after 35 years, no longer be serving its much-beloved craw sh bread. It was as if there had been a death in the festival family. ere was gnashing of teeth, tearing of clothing, and the city feel into deep mourning. But out of the ashes arose Cottage Catering’s craw sh strudel, another fest food staple since 1996, to ll the void and feed the hungry masses.

Similarly, locals were understandably forlorn when a twentysomething from Massachusetts took the kitchen reins from celebrated Cajun chef Paul Prudhomme at Commander’s Palace back in 1982. But Emeril Lagasse would quickly prove naysayers wrong and go on to create a culinary empire, starting with his New Orleans agship in 1990. Now, nearly 35 years later, there’s a new young upstart shaking things up at Emeril’s—his son E.J.

In this issue, food writer Lorin Gaudin, who worked with the legendary chef early on, sits down with his equally talented o spring to discuss his budding career, banana cream pie and, yes…change. Elsewhere, we stroll through the city’s parks, take a bite out of Metairie Road, roam Esplanade Ridge and ready for April’s annual music fests.

Word to the wise: Do not pass on the craw sh strudel.

Cindy

CALENDAR

HOGS FOR THE CAUSE

APRIL 5-6

This porkapalooza spotlights 90 regional pit masters, backed by 20 local and national bands. Since its inception, the wildly popular cook-off has raised more than $11 million to help ght pediatric brain cancer. Pitch in by pigging out. hogsfest.org

BIANCA DEL RIO

APRIL 24

“Not today, Satan, not today!” The homegrown “Ru Paul’s Drag Race” season six superstar is on the road again with her new “Dead Inside” tour. Catch “the clown in the gown” when she pulls back into town. mahaliajacksontheater.com

FRENCH QUARTER FEST

APRIL 11-14

What do you get when you erect 22 stages throughout the Quarter and ll them with 300-plus free acts (from brass, blues and bounce to jazz, funk and folk to classical, gospel and zydeco) comprised of more than 1,700 leading local musicians (including Grammy greats like Irma omas, Chubby Carrier and the Lost Bayou Ramblers, along with perennially popular performers such as Big Freedia, Kermit Ru ns and the Original Pinettes Brass Band)? One heck of a hoe-down, fueled by 60 area eateries. frenchquarterfest.org

(FROM TOP) ©MATT CROCKETT; ©HOGS FOR THE CAUSE; ©ZACK SMITH

BIANCA DEL RIO

HOGS FOR THE CAUSE

CALENDAR

WHAT’S HAPPENING THE LINEUP

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL 7

GREAT THINGS

Bob Dylan

April 1

“There are a lot of places I like, but I like New Orleans better.” The legendary singer/songwriter returns to the Saenger, where he packed the house in 2022. saengernola.com

Wednesday at the Square

April 3, 10,

17 & 24

The free outdoor concert series continues at Lafayette Square with the TBC Brass Band featuring Angelika Joseph (Apr. 4), Erica Falls & the Vintage Soul (Apr. 10), Glbl Wrmng (Apr. 17) and the New Orleans Suspects (Apr. 24). ylcwats.com

New Orleans Pelicans

April 14

The Pels cap off the season taking on the Los Angeles Lakers at the Smoothie King Center. For a full lineup of this month’s home games, visit smoothieking center.com.

APRIL 25-28

Jon Baptiste, Widespread Panic, Chris Stapleton, Fantasia, e Killers, Anderson .Paak & the Free Nationals, Vampire Weekend, Heart, e Revivalists and e Beach Boys headline the opening weekend of Jazzfest, joining more than 300 additional acts on multiple stages spread around the New Orleans Fair Grounds. In between mainstage performances, check out the visiting Colombian musicians at the Cultural Exchange Pavilion. nojazzfest.com

Parsons Dance

April 20

The Manhattan-based troupe restages its acclaimed 2014 “Whirlaway,” set to the music of the late great New Orleans songwriter Allen Toussaint, at the Mahalia Jackson Theater. nobadance.com

David Sedaris

April 24

The best-selling author and humorist reads from his latest book, “Happy-GoLucky,” at the Orpheum, followed by a Q&A and signing. orpheumnola.net

Fest-O-Matic

April 24-28

Chickie Wah Wah jump-

starts its post-fest performance series with Grayson Capps and Joy Clark (Apr. 24), Jon Cleary and the Monster Gentlemen (Apr. 25), the Lost Bayou Ramblers (Apr. 26), 007 (Apr. 27) and Alynda Segarra and Dylan LeBlanc (Apr. 28). chickiewahwah.com

Tremé Threauxdown

April 27

Trombone Shorty and his Orleans Avenue Band traditionally close out Jazzfest on the Fair Grounds’ Festival Stage, but not before taking the Saenger stage, joined by special guests, for their annual opening weekend funk fest. saengernola.com

TOP STOPS

CIVIC THEATRE

Apr. 21: Swans; Apr. 26: Cimafest NOLA; Apr. 27: LP Giobbi; Apr. 28: Mavis Staples. civicnola.com

THE FILLMORE

Apr. 13: The Rock Orchestra by Candlelight; Apr. 14: Asking Alexandria; Apr. 16: Jesse McCartney; Apr. 18: Nothing More and Wage War; Apr. 19: Adam Ant with The English Beat; Apr. 23: Bad Religion and Social Distortion; Apr. 16: Cory Wong and Dumpstaphunk; Apr. 27: Samantha Fish; Apr. 28: The Revivalists. llmorenola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

Apr. 4: The Disco Biscuits; Apr. 14: Beach Fossils; Apr. 25: Rebirth Brass Band; Apr. 27: The New Mastersounds and Bonerama; Apr. 18: Chicano Batman. hob.com

MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER

Apr. 5: Ledisi; Apr. 6: Zach Williams; Apr. 13: Nikki Glaser. mahaliajackson theater.com

ORPHEUM THEATRE

Apr. 13: Kountry Wayne; Apr. 26-28: Jazz Afterdark Concert Series. orpheum nola.net

SAENGER THEATRE

Apr. 9: One Hallelujah; Apr. 13: Brothers Osborne; Apr. 24: The Flaming Lips. saengernola.com

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER

Apr. 11: Parker McCollum; Apr. 12: Hard Love Tour; Apr. 13: Big Easy Blues Festival. smoothiekingcenter.com

TROMBONE SHORTY LOST BAYOU RAMBLERS

WHERE NOW

Toque of the Town

At 20 years old, chef E.J. Lagasse (yes, that Lagasse—he’s Emeril’s son) is quite a surprise. Neatly attired in pressed chef whites and a crisp, clean apron, E.J. presents charmingly old school; think omas Keller, Eric Ripert, Daniel Bouloud, Emeril Lagasse. Fresh out of culinary school, internships (“stages”) in Europe, jobs in swank New York restaurants and, of course, lots of kitchen time at Meril here in New Orleans, E.J. now runs Emeril’s (p. 21), bearing the title “Chef Patron.” at’s a big job, and those are some big shoes to ll. He’s not just doing it, he’s doing it well.

E.J. takes nothing about his position for granted; he makes tough decisions, works hard and gives loads of credit to his crack team, mentioning them by name, often. He’s not really into social media but has an Instagram account, though no TikTok. Like his famous dad, E.J. has that same smile, same twinkling eyes and, although lighter in color, he has those same heavy eyebrows. Most important, he has a lot of really interesting things to say about food, dining and what’s happening at Emeril’s.

Q: YOU CHANGED EMERIL’S PRETTY DRAMATICALLY. THERE’S THE WINE BAR WITH AN À LA CARTE MENU ON ONE SIDE AND FIXED-PRICE TASTING MENUS ONLY ON THE OTHER SIDE. THAT’S BOLD. HOW DID YOU DECIDE TO DO IT?

A: So, things are scaled by time, right? Had there not been all the tragedies—Hurricane Katrina, 9/11, the BP oil spill, etc.—what we’re doing today would have been the restaurant’s natural evolution. We just had to wait. I think ne dining is back. For a long time, it felt like everything was about being casual. But that’s not Emeril’s. We had to be patient so we could be relevant.

Q: EMERIL’S HAS ALWAYS BEEN LOVELY, BUT THERE’S SOMETHING DIFFERENT ABOUT THE FEELING OF THE DINING ROOM. FEWER TABLES, A QUIET ELEGANCE AND GOOD ENERGY. AND THE WINDOW WALL LOOKING INTO THE KITCHEN IS STUNNING. SPEAKING OF THE KITCHEN, IT’S GORGEOUS. I LOVE THE DARK-GREEN OVENS, COPPER PANS AND NEAT WORK-TABLE STATIONS.

A: Well, we removed some tables because it felt better, more open. We also closed the curtains to the windows near the street because ne dining is intimate and special, not a street thing where there’s commotion

A little one-on-one with New Orleans’ newest rising culinary star, E.J. Lagasse LORIN GAUDIN

ABOVE: CHEFS EMERIL AND E.J. LAGASSE SEATED AT THE RECENTLY REVAMPED EMERIL'S RESTAURANT, WHERE E.J. SERVES AS CHEF PATRON. OPPOSITE PAGE: E.J. (SECOND FROM LEFT) COMMANDING THE KITCHEN AT EMERIL'S.

and people looking in. It was about creating the right feeling. At rst, we got some push back from regulars about the curtains, but now they appreciate it. e kitchen needed an update, and that green is our signature color, so we incorporated it where possible, like the base of the center cooking area, our aprons, etc. e copper is a perfect accent color, and who doesn’t like cooking with copper?

Q: LET’S TALK ABOUT THE FOOD. IT’S VERY MODERN.

A: It’s all about pulling avors. Everything may look a bit di erent, but all the avors are there. Our Gumbo tastes of trinity and a toasted roux, just as our Oyster

Stew tastes like the Gulf and that licorice-y bite of Herbsaint. Our Banana Cream Pie looks great, it’s taller, more sophisticated looking and it’s a four- or ve-bite experience of crushed buttery graham crackers, ripe bananas and brown sugar. No beats are missed. I promise. e tasting menus are seven courses. We keep that in mind.

Q: SILENT KITCHEN?

A: During service it’s busy and we need to hear each other, so no music, but, at the end of the night or during prep, disco rules.

Q: I KNOW IT DOESN’T HAPPEN OFTEN, BUT WHEN IT’S CHEF'S DAY OFF, WHERE DO YOU GO?

A: Hands down, my favorite restaurant is Saint-Germain in Bywater. I love those guys and what they do. It’s de nitely my kind of food, from the ingredients to the composition to the plating. Also, I love Pho Tau Bay on Tulane Avenue. My order is the wonton soup; add meatballs.

Q: YOU’RE HOME-COOKING FOR A DATE. WHAT ARE YOU MAKING?

A: Fresh pasta. Making pasta is fun and great to do with a date. My go-to sauce is cacio e pepe.

Q: DAD HAS “BAM!” WHAT DOES E.J. HAVE?

A: (Flashing a big grin) I have a lot of ideas, but no cool tag line of my own…yet.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EMERIL'S NEW "CLASSICS" TASTING MENU SPOTLIGHTS LONG-POPULAR DISHES WITH MODERN-MINDED TWISTS, SUCH AS LOBSTER GUMBO, SMOKED SALMON CHEESECAKE TOPPED WITH CAVIAR AND GOLD LEAF AND A REIMAGINED BANANA CREAM PIE. THE WINE BAR AT EMERIL'S OFFERS SELECT SMALL PLATES.

SEE

Gawk at the Luling Mansion, an opulent Italianate built for a German cotton merchant in 1865 that later served as the Louisiana Jockey Club. Tour Le Musée de f.p.c., a repository of art and documents by and about New Orleans’ free people of color. Visit the circa-1799 Pitot House, a West Indies-style home and gardens on the bank of Bayou St. John that was once the residence of James Pitot, the city’s rst U.S. mayor.

 Luling Mansion

1436 Leda Court

 Le Musée de f.p.c. 2336 Esplanade Ave.; lemuseedefpc.com

 Pitot House 1440 Moss St.; pitothouse.org

SHOP

Browse books, art and more at the Community Book Center, the city’s oldest Black-owned bookstore. Make an appointment for handdrawn ink and a cup of joe at Catahoula Tattoo, which occasionally features live music. Linger over the carefully curated collection of ne European wines at Swirl before selecting a few to take home.

 Community Book Center

2523 Bayou Rd.; readcbc.com

 Catahoula Tattoo 929 N. Broad St.; catahoulatattoo.com

 Swirl Wine

Market & Bar

3143 Ponce de Leon St.; swirlnola.com

ESPLANADE RIDGE ON THE BEAT KIM RANJBAR

FIND THE BEST IN

EAT

Drop by Leo’s Bread for an everything bagel with scallion cream cheese, buttery ham-and-cheese croissants or a crusty loaf of fresh-baked sourdough. Feed your inner falafel fanatic with an overstu ed sandwich and a side of fries and garlicky toum at 1000 Figs. Experience the cuisine of Ethiopia, from crisp sambusa to injera and sweet potato wot, at Addis NOLA.

 Leo’s Bread

2438 Bell St.; leosbread.com

 1000 Figs

3141 Ponce de Leon St.; 1000 gs.com

 Addis NOLA

2514 Bayou Rd.; addisnola.com

PLAY

Make a splash on scenic Bayou St. John with NOLA Paddleboards or Kayakiti-yat, both of which o er outings along the historic waterway. Listen to improvisational music at e New Quorum, an artistic residence/venue inside a century-old mansion. Grab a pint or craft cocktail at Pal’s Lounge, a friendly neighborhood bar with regular food pop-ups and air hockey.

 NOLA Paddleboards nolapaddleboards.com

 Kayak-iti-yat kayakitiyat.com

 The New Quorum 2435 Esplanade Ave.; newquorum.org

 Pal’s Lounge 949 N. Rendon; @palsloungenola

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THE PITOT HOUSE, 1000 FIGS, COMMUNITY BOOK CENTER AND PAL’S LOUNGE

PUT IT IN PARK

Spring has sprung, which means summer is fast approaching. Quick—get out while you can!

Doug Brantley

NEW ORLEANS CITY PARK

is 1,300-acre retreat in the heart of the city claims the world’s largest collection of mature live oaks. Its Botanical Gardens feature more than 2,000 varieties of plants from around the globe, along with the New Orleans Historic Train Garden, a miniature railroad exhibit with local landmarks constructed from botanical materials. City Park is also home to the New Orleans Museum of Art and its free outdoor sculpture garden, featuring close to 100 works. At Roosevelt Mall and Marconi Drive, you’ll nd massive wild ower elds. neworleanscitypark.com

ARMSTRONG PARK

Site of the rst Jazzfest in 1970, Armstrong Park is named for Louis Armstrong and credited as “the birthplace of jazz”—hence the numerous statues devoted the city’s musical and cultural icons that dot its grounds. During the early 1800s, enslaved people would gather in Congo Square (located to the left of the park’s North Rampart Street entrance) to drum, dance and sing. at tradition continues today, with communal drum circles taking place each Sunday at 3 pm.

tclf.org/louis-armstrong-park

AUDUBON PARK

Commissioned in 1871, Audubon was laid out by landscape architect John Olmsted (son of Frederick Olmsted, who designed New York’s Central Park) and was site of the 1884 World’s Fair. Divided into two sections by Magazine Street, the upper part of the 350-acre greenspace features a golf course, a 1.8-mile walking/biking/running path and kid-friendly playgrounds. On the other side is the award-winning Audubon Zoo. Fronted by St. Charles Avenue, Audubon is easily accessed by streetcar; disembark at stop 36. audubonnatureinstitute.org

CRESCENT PARK

Starting on the edge of the French Quarter at Elysian Fields Avenue, this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade travels through the Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods and will eventually connect to the Quarter’s Woldenberg Park, which continues to Canal Street. Part of the French Market District, Crescent Park was erected in 2014 on what was once crumbling wharfs and o ers sweeping views of the Mississippi and the city skyline, in addition to bike/jogging paths, multiuse pavilions and native plantings. crescentparknola.org

FROM TOP: NOMA'S BESTHOFF SCULPTURE GARDEN AT CITY PARK, ARMSTRONG PARK, AUDUBON PARK AND CRESCENT PARK

New Eats in Old Metairie

A quick drive from downtown is historic Old Metairie. Its winding main drag, Metairie Road, is having quite a culinary moment, with recent restaurant additions that are cool head-turners run by seasoned chef-owners with strong New Orleans creds. LORIN GAUDIN

1

GARRISON KITCHEN & COCKTAILS

Chef John Sinclair and his exceptional culinary and cocktail team are tops at their game. e big restaurant space has indoor and outdoor seating, as well as a cool kitchen counter where the hustle is on display. No matter where you sit, settle in with a classic negroni and a selection of share plates to include the city’s best Caesar Salad, crisp/buttery Shrimp Toast, chile-lime Fried Cauli ower with ranch dip and homemade sausage and broccolini over pasta. No matter what, order dessert. We’re partial to the PB&J Napoleon.

2918 METAIRIE RD., 504.224.9330

2 TANA

Chef Michael Gulotta hits the mark with this beautifully appointed, contemporary Italian restaurant, blending avors from Sicily, Liguria and Louisiana. Fresh pastas made on-site, a jaw-dropping wine cellar and three dining spaces, each with a distinct and warm vibe. From the menu, choose crisp, golden Fried

Calamari with citrus and Calabrian chili or Stu ed Focaccia that eats like a ramped-up mu uletta. ere are lovely entrees of various proteins (the Veal Marsala with local mushrooms is our pick) but jump to the pastas to lock in the Pasta con Vongole NOLA—little neck clams and hot sausage on squid-ink pasta.

2919 METAIRIE RD., 504.533.8262

3 PARISH LINE BISTRO BAR

A bit more casual in spirit, Parish Line has a lot to offer, including a super-nice, rooftop dining area. Snag a reservation at sunset for Happy Hour and go all-in with the KC Savory Martini, zipped by olive juice, a rinse of dry vermouth, blue cheese olives and cracked pepper. Of course get some Wagyu sliders, but also the Caviar Fries (local caviar, crème fraîche and garnishes) are a must. Balsamicglazed Crispy Brussels Sprouts go great as a side to the warm New England Lobster Roll or a sweet-andspicy Fried Chicken Sandwich.

601 METAIRIE RD., 504.264.7783

GUIDE

GO WILD

Wild mushrooms with gumbo z’herbes and pu ed rice from the Commons Club (p. 21). As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change; call to verify hours.

featured advertisers throughout the Guide.

DINING

Central Business/ Warehouse District

BEARCAT CAFÉ

Eclectic. At this popular brunch spot the menu is divided into Good Cat/Bad Cat options. On the naughty side, there’s a lush scramble of eggs and crabmeat or a decadent fried chicken club; to play nice, order the tofu scramble with black bean “sausage.” B, L (Tu-Su). 845 Carondelet St. 504.766.7399. 2521 Jena St., 504.309.9001. bearcatcafe.com

BREWERY SAINT X

American. In addition to house-brewed beers, this brewery/bar/restaurant offers kicked-up apps (smoked shrimp dip with crab boil saltines, beef cheek meat pies) and an easy-to-digest selection of salads and sandwiches (. L (Tu-Su), D (nightly). 734 Loyola Ave., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; brewerysaintx.com

CHEMIN À LA MER

Louisiana. French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks. B, L, D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5898. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

COCHON

Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

COMMONS CLUB

Louisiana. The ramped-up regional fare here is anything but common. Rabbit-and green onion sausage with warm poato salad, Iberico pork flank with crab dirty rice, Wagyu burgers with cave-aged cheddar, horseradish and beer mustard—see what we mean? D (nightly); Br (W-Su).

550 Baronne St. (in the Virgin Hotel), 833.791.7700. Map 3, C4; virginhotels.com/new-orleans

COMPÈRE LAPIN

Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli, jerk pork belly and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly); Br (Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com

COPPER VINE

American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up a wide variety of sandwiches and share plates and heartier fare, such as redfish amandine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervine.com

COUVANT

French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include gougères with truffled Mornay sauce, escargot en croute and steak frites. Br (daily), L (MTh), D (Tu-Su). 317 Magazine St., 504.342.2316. Map 3, D5; couvant.com

THE DAILY BEET

Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at these hip cafés. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, C4; B, L, D (daily). 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4; thedailybeetnola.com

DEVIL MOON BBQ

Barbecue. Pop into this daytime operation for counter service of barbecue plates, sandwiches and sides. Start with the meaty-fatty pork cracklings, followed by juicy brisket, tender ribs and homemade sausage. L (Tu-Su). 1188 Girod St., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; devilmoonbbq.com

DOMENICA

Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower

with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as pork ragu lasagna. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com

EMERIL’S

Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship set the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out multicourse tasting menus, both classic and seasonal. The adjacent Wine Bar serves up sharable small plates. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurant.com

EMERIL’S BRASSERIE

French. This family friendly spot in Harrah’s Casino serves Lagasse’s take on classic French brasserie food (onion soup, tarte flambé, steak tartare), in addition to Creole-flavored fare (turkey gumbo, crawfish pasta, spicy hogs head cheese). D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, D6; caesars.com/harrahsnew-orleans

GIANNA

Italian. Rustic Italian fare is the order here. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb lasagna, veal saltimbocca; finish with a gelato and biscotti. L, D (daily). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com

GRAND ISLE

Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com

HERBSAINT

French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork

belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com

JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ

Mexican. Lobster tacos, bone-in pork chop al pastor: Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s Poydras Street hot spot puts contemporary spins on standard taqueria fare. L (SuF), D (nightly). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; johnnysancheznola.com

LUFU NOLA

Indian. A flavor-punched modern Indian menu that spans regions and defines boundaries. Start with the pani puri (crisp semolina shells filled with potato, peas and tamarindmint water), followed by fried masala squid and curried lamb shank. L, D (Th-Tu). 301 St. Charles Ave., 504.354.1104. Map 3, D4; lufunola.com

MAYPOP

Vietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into bibb lettuce salad with coconut ranch, fried oysters with bourbon aioli or go satsumaglazed octopus. D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL

International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the famed chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Greek salad and poke nachos to Korean fried chicken wings. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril

MISS RIVER

Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com

DINING

THE PEACOCK ROOM

Eclectic. It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to see this incredibly pretty space. While there, you might as well order a few craft cocktails and a round of sharable small plates (curried cashews with candied bacon). Better yet, settle in with a smash burger. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.3073. Map 3, E5; peacockroomnola.com

PÊCHE

Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

RESTAURANT AUGUST

Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; ruthschris.com

SEAWORTHY

Seafood. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood.

D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com

ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY

Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through

olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. L (M-Sa). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; L (daily). 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4; stjamescheese.com

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame guacamole to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com

YO NASHI

Japanese. Omakase-style dining means multiple courses of whatever stellar sashimi and sushi creations chef Mackenzie Broquet dreams up, using fresh, local ingredients and top-notch techniques. D (Th-M). 419 Carondelet St., 504.345.2155. Map 3, C4; yonashinola.com

French Quarter

ANTOINE’S

Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich FrenchCreole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. D (M-Sa); Br (M, Th-Sa), jazz brunch (Su). 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com

ARNAUD’S

Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com

BAYONA

Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com

BOURBON HOUSE

Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides. Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell or the bourbon shrimp and grits. L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; bourbonhouse.com

BRENNAN’S

Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com

BROUSSARD’S

Creole. Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the New Orleans’ premier fine dining spots with one of the most elegant courtyards in the French Quarter. The kitchen turns out Crescent City classics, such as bronzed redfish with lump crab. D (MSa); jazz brunch (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; broussards.com

CAFÉ BEIGNET

Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun fare. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE

Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial

doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com

CANE & TABLE

Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (W-M), Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com

COURT OF TWO SISTERS

Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE

Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com

DIAN XIN

Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; dianxinnnola.com. 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinonconti.com

DORIS METROPOLITAN

Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com

DINING

FRENCH TOAST

Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

GALATOIRE’S

Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (Tu-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com

GW FINS

Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com

HABANA OUTPOST

Latin. The Brooklyn-based, eco-conscious eatery now has a French Quarter “outpost,” which offers its signature Cuban sandwich, loaded elote and vegan-friendly tacos and bowls. L, D (Th-M). 1040 Esplanade Ave., 504.900.9500. Map 3, I3; habanaoutpost.com

IRENE’S CUISINE

Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com

JEWEL OF THE SOUTH

Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-M). 1026

St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com

JUSTINE

French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is full-on French with a slight Southern accent: onion soup gratinée and escargot share menu space with baked crab mac and shrimp and grits. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

KILLER POBOYS

Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.439.7445. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com

LATITUDE 29

Eclectic. Tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s newschool tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; latitude29nola.com

MAMOU

French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Celeriac remoulade with blue crab, escargot tartlet with romesco sauce, poisson a la Florentine. Finish with lemon madeleines. D (W-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com

MR. B’S BISTRO

Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-M); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE

Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic

café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

PALM & PINE

Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s curry crab beignets, chicken-fried Texas quail, or dig into closerto-home flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com

RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION

Cajun. Chef John Folse is the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. D (Th-Tu). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com

SAINT JOHN

Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, turkey necks smothered in brown gravy, beef daube—everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.581.8120. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

STANLEY

Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com

SUN CHONG

Asian. This sleek spot doles out Asian fusion fare—crawfish fried rice, beef bulgogi po’boys, matcha cheesecake—and cool specialty cocktails, backed by a hip-hop beat. L (M, W-Th), D

(W-M); Br (F-Su). 240 Decatur St., 504.355.0022. Map 3, F5; sunchongnola.com

SYLVAIN

Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastropub near Jackson Square, as diners sip handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com

TABLEAU

Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. Br, D (W-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com

THAIHEY NOLA

Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-M). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

TUJAGUE’S

Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

COQUETTE

French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes often but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com

FAT BOY PANTRY

Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb belly-and-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514. Map 1, D4; fatboypantry.com

GRIS-GRIS

Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (catfish-and-caviar po’ boys, redfish courtbouillon) from his hopping open kitchen. The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers a great selection of graband-go items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com

JACK ROSE

Contemporary. This bold, contemporary space in the Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think pork cheeks with polenta and Creole meunière or fried chicken Parmesan. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com

MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE

Contemporary. The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast/brunch spot. House-made pop tarts, collard greens and grits, coconut-curry tamales, roasted-carrot yogurt —expect the unexpected. B, Br (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896. Map 1, D4; mollysriseandshine.com

SAN LORENZO

Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired

DINING

steaks. Start with the zucchini fritti. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater

ALMA

Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. B, L (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3; eatalmanola.com

BABS

Italian. “A restaurant for every day or any day” with a “comfort-driven” menu of elevated rustic Italian fare. Arancini with paddlefish caviar, wagyu beef lasagna, spaghetti carbonara with andouille and black truffles; top it off with buttermilk zeppole dipped in spiced chocolate. D (W-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramericanbistro.com

BACCHANAL

Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L (F-M), D (nightly). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac’ n’ cheese) or fullon entrees such as grilled filet mignon. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

ELIZABETH’S

American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this friendly neighborhood joint, which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (Th-M). 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com

THE ELYSIAN BAR

Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769. Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com

N7

French. This quiet, hiddenaway bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck confit, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. Grab a seat in the garden. D (nightly); Br (FSu). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com

PALADAR 511

Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

SAINT-GERMAIN

French. Named “Best New Chefs of 2021” by Food & Wine, Blake Aguillard and Trey Smith’s casual hot spot offers a reservation-only, 10-course tasting menu that is constantly changing. D (Th-Su). 3054 St. Claude Ave., 504.218.8729. Map 1, D3; saintgermainnola.com

Mid-City

ADDIS NOLA

African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef). D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su).

2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com

BLUE OAK BBQ

Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

DOOKY CHASE’S

Creole. One of the oldest Black-owned restaurants in the nation. The late “Queen of Creole Cuisine,” Leah Chase’s legend lives on in classic dishes such as shrimp with lima beans and gumbo z’herbes. L (Tu-F), D (F-Sa). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; dookychaserestaurants.com

FLOUR MOON BAGELS

Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the draw here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced tartines. Named among the best in the U.S. by Bon Appétit. B, L (Th-Tu). 457 N. Dergenois St., 504.354.1617. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com

LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ

Creole. The Baquet family is known for their award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken, baked macaroni and daily specials. L (M-Sa). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.766.8687. Map 3, I1; lildizzyscafe.net

PARKWAY BAKERY

Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with sweet pea risotto. L (M-F), D (nightly);

Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

ZASU

Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, hamachi crudo, fried sea scallops with celery root-apple remoulade. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com

UPTOWN

AVO

Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, lasagna with short rib ragu and grilled Gulf fish piccata. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com

BRIGTSEN’S

Creole. A protegé of the late great Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen’s food is rooted in Louisiana tradition but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (TuSa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3; brigtsens.com

THE CHLOE

Louisiana. At this charming boutique property, chef Todd Pulsinelli turns out stellar dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the porkand-shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St. Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. Map 1, D4; thechloenola.com

COSTERA

Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-Su). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

DAKAR NOLA

African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors

DINING/SHOPPING

of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (W-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504.493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com

LA PETITE GROCERY

French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

LILETTE

French Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well. Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (TuSa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com

MISTER MAO

Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from ginger salad and escargot Wellington to Kashmiri chile fried chicken and octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (Th-Tu); Br (Sa-Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com

OSTERIA LUPO

Italian. A nod to Northern Italy, with sharable antipasti (black truffle arancini), handmade pastas (radiatori with Louisiana blue crab) and woodfired meat and seafood entrees. L (F-Su), D (nightly). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; osterialupo.com

SABA

Mediterranean. A taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as duck breast with pomegranate molasses, cocoa and citrus. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

SAFFRON NOLA

Indian. Elevated Indian fare. Top picks include the crabmeat pudha, rum-soaked lamb chops and grilled shrimp curry. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; saffronnola.com

SHAYA

Mediterranean.Contemporary Mediterranean with Southern flair. Fresh-made pita accompanies creamy baba ganoush, smokey labneh and an outstanding hummus selection. L, D (daily). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; shaya restaurant.com

SHOPPING

Art Galleries & Antiques

ANGELA KING GALLERY

One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; angelakinggallery.com

ANTIEAU GALLERY

Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY

One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS

The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting

museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the acclaimed bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St, 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

FRANK RELLE

PHOTOGRAPHY

Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 7910 Royal St., 504.265.8564. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com

KEIL’S ANTIQUES

Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com

LEROY’S PLACE

A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture. 922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES

This branch of the nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary

paintings, sculpture and limited-edition graphics by such famed artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol and Erté, among others. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4; martinlawrence.com

MICHALOPOULOS

The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com

(MOSTLY) ROCK ’N’ ROLL GALLERY

The Clash, David Bowie, the Eurythmics, Freddie Mercury, U2: Steve Rapport’s photo archive reads like a 1980s rock royalty roll call. You’ll also find images of local musicians. 627 St. Peter St. Map 3, G4; mostlyrocknroll.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO

Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

TERRANCE

OSBORNE GALLERY

Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329

A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART

This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names

Discover St. Bernard

From our local Canarian Spanish culture at Los Isleños Museum Complex and Historic Village, to fishing the most abundant waters in Louisiana, St. Bernard is sure to impress the nature & history enthusiast in you!

in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Books & Music

Only 5 miles from the Historic French Quarter (504) 278.4242 | VisitStBernard.com

BALDWIN & CO.

GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO

STARS HANG OUT TOGETHER

Silkscreen designed by George Rodrigue in 1996 and printed in 2024 Estate Stamped Edition of 150, 26 x 26 inches

730 Royal Street (behind St. Louis Cathedral) New Orleans, LA | 504-581-4244

Mon - Sat: 11:00am - 5:00pm Sun: 12:00pm - 5:00pm www.GeorgeRodrigue.com

In addition to books geared to a wide range of interests, this popular shop also houses a coffee bar and podcast studio. 1003 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.354.1741. Map 3, I3; baldwinandcobooks.com

CRESCENT CITY BOOKS

Louisiana’s sole member of the Antiquarian Bookseller’s Association. In addition to vintage books, the shop offers maps, prints and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.4997. Map 3, E3; crescentcitybooks.com

EUCLID RECORDS

Two well-organized floors of new and used LPs share space with CDs, vintage concert posters and comics. It’s easy to spend an hour (or two) rummaging the racks here. 3301 Chartres St., 504.504.947.4348. Map 1, E3; euclidrecordsneworleans.com

FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS

For six months in 1925, author William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldier’s Pay.” First additions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. 624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940. Map 3, G4; faulknerhousebooks.com

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY

There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

PEACHES RECORDS

For nearly five decades, this local chain has been promoting area musicians with a large selection of New Orleans music. 4318 Magazine

SHOPPING/ATTRACTIONS

St., 504.282.3322. Map 1, D4; peachesrecordsandtapes.com

Clothing, Hats & Shoes

DIRTY COAST

Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, this shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 630 Chartres St., 504.354.1955. Map 3, G4; 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com

MEYER THE HATTER

The oldest hat store in the South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of headwear in the country. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4; meyerthehatter.com

SHOE BE DO

Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

TASC

Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its ecoconscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; tascperformance.com

Gifts & Collectibles

BUNGALOWS

This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com

DARK MATTER

Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified cats and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography.

More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5

FLEURTY GIRL

These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items.

617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net

NOLA BOARDS

Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 1, D4; nolaboards.com

NOLA KIDS

This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and other gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com.

SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERS

You can catch a sugar buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5; southerncandymakers.com

Jewelry

ART & EYES

The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

KREWE

This locally designed eyewear line, with styles named for New Orleans streets, has garnered a national following. 619 Royal St., 504.407.2925.

Map 3, G4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4; krewe.com

MIGNON FAGET

Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; mignonfaget.com

PORTER LYONS

Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com

WELLINGTON & CO.

This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers

CANAL PLACE

Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local shops. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com

RIVERWALK OUTLETS

Located along the river at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER

A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors and Sephora. 33301 Veterans

Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

ATTRACTIONS

Attractions & Landmarks

ARMSTRONG PARK

Named for the jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM

This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org

AUDUBON PARK

Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

AUDUBON ZOO

Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the top-rated zoos in the nation. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

CEASARS SUPERDOME

Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome ranks as the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; caesarssuperdome.com

CITY PARK

Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Palm Dr., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; neworleanscitypark.com

CRESCENT PARK

Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neigh-

borhood. Map 3, J6; crescent parknola.org

DESTREHAN PLANTATION

A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

FRENCH MARKET

America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org

HARRAH’S CASINO

The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Street. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

JACKSON SQUARE

The heart of the French Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street.Map 3, G5

OLD URSULINE CONVENT

Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St.,

504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouis cathedral.org

PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE

This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER

Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com

ST. BERNARD PARISH

Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL

Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

STUDIO BE

Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com

VUE ORLEANS

Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360º observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com

WHITNEY PLANTATION

Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history,

this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 9:30 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

WOLDENBERG PARK

This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Museums

BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM

This Tremé space seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1531 St. Philip St., 504.657.6700. Map 3, I2; backstreetmuseum.org

CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM

Established in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the nation’s second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6; confedertemuseum.com

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4 pm. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in the Bible Belt, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM

This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured; neighborhood tours are also offered. Open ThSu, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM

The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculp-

ture garden. Open Tu, Th-Su (10 am-5 pm), W (noon-7 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-5 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org

NEW ORLEANS

PHARMACY MUSEUM

This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs and phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE

Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open daily, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFab features exhibits, along with cooking classes. Open Th-M, 11 am-5 pm. 91504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3; southernfood.org

ENTERTAINMENT

Cruises & Tours

ALGIERS/CANAL STREET FERRY

A ferry has been crossing the Mississippi River from the French Quarter/CBD to Algiers Point since 1827. Daily, starting at 6 am; pedestrians only. 1 Canal St. Map 3, E7; norta.com

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES

Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pick-

ups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

CEMETERY TOURS NOLA

The only company authorized to conduct tours of St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Walking tours take place daily (9 am-3:45 pm), departing from Basin Street Station every 15 minutes. 501 Basin St., 504.777.3027. Map 1, F3; cemeterytours neworleans.com

CITY SIGHTSEEING

This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

CREOLE QUEEN

PADDLEWHEELER

Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs form Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

DRINK + LEARN

Cocktail historian Elizabeth Pierce leads these fun and informative two-hour tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. drinkandlearn.com

FRENCH QUARTER

PHANTOMS

These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. Reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; frenchquarterphantoms.com

GATORS AND GHOSTS

This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 728 St. Louis St., 888.481.8188. Map 3, F4; gatorsandghosts.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS

Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries,

Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, River Cruises— and all possible combinations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com

HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS

Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Harbor jazz cruises M-Sa at 11 am and 2 pm; Su jazz brunch at 11 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE

Cocktails

ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75

Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

BAR MARILOU

With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com

CAROUSEL BAR

Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com

CHANDELIER BAR

The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning

bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

THE COLUMNS

This historic property oozes elegance. Grab a seat at the moody mahogany bar or settle into a courtyard table and listen to the streetcar rumble by, while sipping stellar cocktails. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4; thecolumns.com

DOUBLE DEALER

Tucked beneath the Orpheum Theater, this modern-day speakeasy woos with curtained booths, secret nooks and a wide-ranging lineup of entertainment. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.300.0212. Map 3, E3; doubledealernola.com

FIVES

This European-inspired drinking salon in Jackson Square’s historic Pontalba Buildings serves up both classic and original quaffs, a variety of oysters, caviar and other raw bar options. 29 St. Ann St. Map 3, H5; fives.bar

HOT TIN

Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this cozy space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com

PAT O’BRIEN’S

Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB

This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

PEYCHAUD’S

Classic cocktails—Sazeracs, French 75s, Roffignacs—in a classic French Quarter set-

ting, where the inventor of Peychaud’s bitters once lived. 727 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; thecelestinenola.com

SAZERAC BAR

Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

THE WILL & THE WAY

Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this easy-to-overlook gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated bar menu. 2719 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; thewillandtheway.com

Live Entertainment

APPLE BARREL BAR

This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J4

BLUE NILE

This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

THE FILLMORE

Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE

This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotat-

ing roster of top-tier local talent is featured. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse

MAPLE LEAF

A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com

PRESERVATION HALL

Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com

REPUBLIC NOLA

One of downtown’s hottest nightspots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a latenight dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6; republicnola.com

SNUG HARBOR

An intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4; snugjazz.com

THE SPOTTED CAT

This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 2 pm, with additional sets at 6 and 10 pm. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com

THREE MUSES

A veritable NOLA nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, a smattering of small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 3musesnola.com

TIPITINA’S

The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

TOULOUSE THEATRE

This music venue takes its name from a former cinema in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting performers from around the globe. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

PARTING SHOT

Blowing Off Steam

The steamboat Natchez’s (p. 36) 32-whistle, steam-powered calliope sounds off daily around 11 am before departing the French Quarter’s Toulouse Street Wharf, then again at 2 and 7 pm.

Remember the steam kettle; though up to its neck in hot water, it continues to sing.

– BROWNIE WISE