Where Venice September 2017 by Morris Media Network

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

SEPTEMBER 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

Venice

www.where-venice.com

YOUR

C IT GUID Y E

SPOTLIGHT ON VENICE WELCOME TO THE WORLD CAPITAL OF CINEMA

VIVA ARTE VIVA BIENNALE 2017 13 MAY - 26 NOVEMBER

GIFT IDEAS OUR PICK OF THE BEST SEASONAL TRENDS

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New, here, now:

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Venice September 2017 12

FOCUS

the guide

DINING

20 SHOPPING

Boasting more than 160 years of history, the Salvadori Diamond Atelier offers women emotions that go straight to the heart

BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE

42 DINING

Harry's bar is a mustvisit destination for VIP watching in Venice

Harry's Bar

54 Parco San Giuliano

50 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

SIGHTSEEING Damien Hirst

The great heart of Venice, the basilica of St. Mark's is a heady mix of history, art and contradictions

ISOLA D

56 ENTERTAINMENT

Contents

E G PIAV

HIA

ROS

A LA

CALLE

ERI

stol

CALLE

ti Apo San

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA

CAL

STE

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

LE STEL LA

CALL E

BAN DI CAL LE

TEST A E DE

CALL

DOSE E DEL CALL

NAVE

IOL

VOLT

TAR

ADI

DEL

FRU

PAR

DEL

CAL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

DEL CAL LE

FOR DEL LE CAL

BALBI

APR II IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BAL OTE LE DE

SAN A CHI VEC

SALIZADA

EI BAS

ILE

BOM LE CAL

LOV O

CAL LE

CALLE

A N M

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

CATECUMENI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

SPIRIT

O SANTO

FONDAME

TE ZAT TA

San

BRAG

FOND

BILI

INCURA

CALLE

E ALLO

ETTO

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

AMEN

PISCINA

ZATTER

MENTA

FORNACE

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDA

SALON

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

E AI GESUA TI

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo AM

BIA

Sant'Eufemia FO

'EU

FEM

ITE

FONDA

E COSM

ANDO A FERR

CALL

MENTA

PONTE

PICCOL

GIUDECCA FONDA

M E N TA

SAN GI ACOM

Redentore O

N CA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

Giudecca Palanca EN

'OLIO

VERT

E DELL

E CON

ONDA

CALL

NGO

RETT

ANE

LAVR

OBIL

DE LE ERBE

PON

CALL

DE LA SACA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAL

Dol

Ca’

GA RU

Rio

APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PISCIN A SAN

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

C. NI

VAN GIO

L’ARC

SAN LE

CAL

E DE CALL RUG

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

LLE

CAL

CAT

SAN

ARINI

LUN

FOSC

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

ICO

Can ale

. MIS

HET A

RAC

ICE

LLE

FEL

SAN

NTA

ULI PRI

LLE

FOO RN O

DEL

VEL E LE

CA LLE

DE CAL LE

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO

MAT

TIA

CALL E DE

DEL SABION

RIO TERRÀ

TERRÀ

CORTE

Palazzo Ducale

MO VONI SCHIA RIVA

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

ADIN

SOF IA

CAL

LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

DA PONTE DOGE DEL CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA

SAN TA

CAM PO

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM LE

REG

DEL

INA

ORB I

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

INI CAR FOS RÀ TER RIO

Salute

San Gregorio

RIO

GNESE

Moise

Palazzo Genovese

CALLE DEL BASTION

FONDAMENTA

SANT'A

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

LE CAL

TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

TRA GHE TO

DEL

A ROS DEL

GR LE

INA TI

LIZ

DO ON SEC

CRI STO DEL CAL LE

LI LIPO TA E STRE

DURO RE DORSO

CANONI DE LA

MENTA

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

FONDA

ZZA

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

NANI

CALLE

MARCO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Museo Correr

VALLAR

CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

SAN

Basilica di San Marco

CALLE

AMEN

San Gio

DEL

CALLE DE

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

SAN

SIONE

FOND

FON

COLOM

IO MEG E DEL CALL

STA

FOR

N SA

DEL

CAL

LIZ SA

GA LAR LE CAL

TER RIO

O ROCC

ALBA E DEI CALL

CALL

SESTIE FOSCARI CALLE

EDIO REM

ASCEN

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

LARGA

PIA

CALLE

EREMIT

FRUTARIOLI

LE CAL

LARGA

MENTA

Pa Q Sta

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

C.DEI

Santa M Formo

BANDE

CORTE

FONDA

DE LE

DEL FORNO

ETT

OTTI

EOL

DEI CORTELL

ZUL IAN

E BIAN CALL

ALL CAV

ORS

DEL TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

VAPOR

CA TAS

San Giuliano

CORTE TORRETTA

CARRO

Rio

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

DEL

Palazz

DEL

A ENT

SARTOR

CALLE

ETTI,

TI, ET RS

RÀ

RIO

BINA

CALLE

FONTE

SALITA

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

A’

E DI CALL

RG LA LLE CA

CALLE

QUERIN

ZO MEZ

HIVIO

L’ARC E DRIO CALL

E SAN CALL

IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU A

NESI

A CI LU NT A SA TA

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

TIM

RIT

PO NE ZIO RE DI

O SAT MUS

Rio Del

FORNO

DE LE ERBE

SAN

GIO ROLO DELL’O

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

San Moisè

CORTE BAROZZI

DEI

LE CAL

I HIER SPEC

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

LIO

IA DAR SPA

TER

DAM

DEL

LUCATE LLO

RIO

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

CAP

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE

MOIS

SAN

LICINI

BRI FAB

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CORTE

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

FON

C. DEL

PISCI

XXII MARZO

GIAZZO

RUBBI

ARIA MARZ

STR

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

E DEI CALL

CASTEL

ERIA SEL CAS

DEL

CALLE

C. LARGA

CORTE

MEZ O

DEI

LARGA

CALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

LE CAL

A DE PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DRIO

IOL

ERIA

CALL GABRI E

G. GALLIN

CALLE

CAMPO

CAL LE

IAPIE RA

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

VERO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

BALO TE

LE CAL

MINELL

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

CALLE

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

BRI FAB

LARGA

LIO

DEI

RTA

Teatro la Fenice

SAN

LE CAL

CALLE

CAOTO

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

ERI

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

lva C.

ONA

CALLE

BOT

Teatro Malibran

SALVAD OR

C.DE

E C.

DEI

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

Santa Maria I MIRdei Miracoli

IZA

CORTE GRAGOLINA

AZZ

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

WID

RIO

SALIZA

SAN

NDE LOCA CALLE

SSIN

VER

LAR

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL C O RT E LE VAR B ATA G I A ISCO

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

S.Canciano

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

ASSA

Santa Maria del Giglio

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CORTE DEL

A LUC SAN

CALLE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

V O LT

Casa di Marco Polo

MAR ZARI A DEL

DEL

LE CAL

San Fantin

CALLE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

PIO

MARZA RIA

Rio

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEG

San Salvador

C. DE LE COLONNE

DOL

RAMO

SAL

BO BEM

LE CAL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

RO TEAT

BON CAR

SAN

TEATRO

DEL

RIO

SALI ZZA DA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE LE CAL

E CALL

LARG A

MARCO R

RIOL

QUE OPIA PISC

LLI CAVA

CIN NER COR

E CALL

FRUTA

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

C. DEL

Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni E CALL

PIC

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

TIM

RIT

E VENIE

CAL

BARBA

COCCO

CAN

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

CALLE

TOS

ZIO

HE BRIC FAB

ttim a

SARTORI

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

Ponte di Rialto

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

ETIE

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALL

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

RIO

CAF

Canal Grande

SALIZADA

ZEN

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

ORE

STU

DEL

CHIES

UZZI

ULI

San Giacomo di Rialto

ANG

DEL

TEA TR O

CALL

DELLA

CAPP

ENTA

CALL

DEI

TI OCA

CAL

CALLE

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

DAM

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

PAR

RAVA

San Maurizio

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

REA

DEL

Palazzo Grimani

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

RINA

SALIZAD

CAL LE

MAN

NT'A

PRI

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

Santo Stefano

Accademia

C.SA

ENT A

San Silvestro

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

NANI

. S.AND

DAM

DEI

ari

CAL

San Beneto San Luca

AVV

BOT EGH E

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia DEL PISTOR

CATE

FOND.

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CALLE

FOND

Santa Sofia

CAL

DEL

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

ETA

RUGH

de ran

CAMPO PISANI

FON

CAL

CALLE

SAN

CAL

ion

ENTA

RUG

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

TER

. NARI

DAM

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

MUT I

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

RIO

DEI LAVRANE

E CALL

SACCA

CA’

SAN

IER

Zattere

FISOLA

LARGA

FAL

CALLE

STU A

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

FOND

CRO SER A

ZATTER

CHIESA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

MENTA

DELLA

BOT A

DE L

CAL

FONDA

CALLE

GALIZ

OZZE CARR

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 1

Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

DEL

Sant’Aponal

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

S. Samuele

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

DEI

DA IZA SAL

LON

ZEL

DON

PON

CAL

E AL

CAL LE DE

AMP ANE

CA’

Ca' Rezzonico

ANI GRIM

TER

E CALL

ZAT

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

LINI

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

E DE CALL

al G

SESTIERE

CHI TODES

BON

CAR

FORNO

CAL LE RAMO

ENTA

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

San Trovaso

DAM

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FON

NTA

INI

Abazia Rdella Misericordia D

S.Silvestro

Can

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

LE CAL

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

C. DEI

SANT

TER

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

LE SAMUE

OGNI

RIO

RIN PEST

. DE

CAMPO APONAL

San Barnaba

DON SAN PER

SERA

S. Basilio

100 m

FOND

L’AG NEL LA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

A S. PISCIN

DE OGNISAN

CAMPO SAN POLO

E CRO

ENTA

AME

CORTE DEL TEATRO

E DEL CALL

FONDAM

FOD

LET

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DE INC INI

SCA

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CA’BCAL ONVLE

DEL

CALL

HETT

DEI TIOZ

TRAG

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

E DEL

E DE

' VE

CAL

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CALL

BESAG

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DA SAN

NT AR

ERA

SER

Santa Fosca

E DOL

CRO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

DEI PUTI

IAN

DORSODURO

BOL

CALL

CAL

MADONA

PRET

SAN

CALLE

AST

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

SEB

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE LA

E DEI

CAL LE

RAMO

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SAN

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TOMÀ

TTO

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

nde Canal Gra

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

A ENT

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DAM

DON

San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

TTO

CALL

FOMO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

FON

LAR

ORE

CALLE

TALO

ALE

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

SAN POLO

GHE

OCHE

TRA

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

a de

rto

E TRON

E ZANE

DEL

del

TERÀ

SAN

CAMPO SAN STIN

min

Rio

S.Stae

CAL

IAT

ll'O

RIO

CAL

CALL

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

MEZ

CALLE DELL'OLIO

GO RTE OPO SOT

LA TT

C. DE

DIA

CAL

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

E OCH

C.VE

E RENIE

DEL

lla

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

CAMPO SAN BOLDO TOR

ESI

RIO TERA’

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

TIN

San Rocco

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

Angelo Raffaele

DEL

CIM

PAN

SSA

L’ISOLA

CALL

RIELO

CALLE CASE NUOVE

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

DE LA VIDA

CAL

oS taz

DAR O

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

À D E

Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAL

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

LORENZ

’

RAMO

FON

RAM

CIM

San Pantalon

CALLE

NTA

DE L’OGIO

C. SAN

OLO

TERA’

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CAL

A SAN

NUOVO

USE

CALLE

MATTA DI CA’

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

A mixture of history and legend, D O R S O D U R O all the secrets of Venetian cuisine. NIC

CALLE

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RUGA BELA

tini

CALLE CONTARINA

A A MART SANT

L' ARZE

TA DE

AMEN

LAC

TER

E C AN

La Maddalena

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

o de

ETTI MOR

SIM

DEI FONTEGH

AMEN

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALL

BASEG

RIO

RAG

FOND

AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS

BAR

URATI

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

S.Marcuola

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

CERER

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

RUGA VECCHIA

A OV

DEI

ete

CALLE

MENTA

San Marcuola

LAR

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

SAL

LE CAL

MADON

BAR

LIS

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

BIAS

E DEL PISTO

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

DEL REMER

RIO

OTT

Miser

RIO

CAMPIELLO

CALLE DE LA LACA

ESI

CAL

A CALLE

CAL

PAZ CAM

ENT A MIN

della

icordi

EONARDO

Rio

Del

Rio

CALL

San Leonardo

NG CO

LUN

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

SAN LEONARDO

I CALLE ORSETT

TA PROC

AMEN

RAM

DAM

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

San Simeone Profeta

TA RIZZI

CAZZIO

FOND

MENTA

AMEN

A RIVA

DEI AMAI

gaz

FONDA

48 IN SEARCH OF

E NUO

ENT

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

IERI

FOND

CAS

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

DAM

Soranzo Cappello

PENS

RTE

CAM

FON

CHI

DEI

TERÀ

C. LAVADOR

Rio Nuov

ACC

RIO

HIO

'ANDR

CALLE

TAB

TABAC

SANT

ICA

TERÀ

NUO

TA FABBR

RIO

AMEN

PIAZZALE ROMA

CAL

FOND

PAPADOPOLI

People Mover Venezia

. LA

Giardino Papadopoli

nde l Gra Cana

Giardino di Palazzo

NTIN

TOLE

'AN

FONDAMENTA

Ponte della Costituzione

Sant'Andrea

. DEI

Ferrovia

FON

TER

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

An island, a town and a nature reserve, but also a Sjet-setters’ A N TA C R O C E paradise. RIO

LO EL RI E LL CA

P.le Roma

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

MIN CA L DE LLE CA

RO SA PE E LL CA

DE Ponte degli Scalzi

People Mover Venezia

AG SP

A ST

O ITTI

Riva de Biaso

LLE

CAT

ALZ

RÀ

MER

FON

EZIO

ICO

I SC

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

San Geremia

38 LIDO DI VENEZIA DIR

MIS

A DELL

Santa Maria di Nazareth

ONN

VECCHIO

A E M

LER

ER LE P

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

CAL

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

People Mover Venezia

MAD

» MAP PAGES 62-63 FO

ENTA

RIO T ERÀ FA R S

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

DAM

MASEN

CAMPO SAFFA

OND ROT

CAN

LAR

CAL

O ITEL CAP E DEL SE

CANNAREGIO

San Giobbe

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FON

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO RTI

DEI

DAM

CanaENTA CAN le di NAR Cann EGI O aregio

GIO

NVE

CAL LE

FON

LL VE E CC GH HI ET O TO

INE

LAR

IAN

CALL

CAL

LLO

Ponte dei Tre Archi

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

N G IR

San Girolamo TE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

CALLE TRAGHETTO

Loved by tourists, the island is famous for its colourful houses and handcrafted lace.

MUN EGH E

B AT

CAL LE

STIAN

ADIN

R SEBA

BRAG

TTI

la Sen

VENIE

del

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ise

Rio O COLE

AMEN

.A CARL

AMEN

di Sa

nt'Alv

FOND

NUOVE

Rio

CASE

I CASE

ITEN

DELLE

PEN

TÀ ER LIB

Discover artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops.

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

TRONCHETTO

28 UNIQUE IN VENICE

LAR

OSS

Parco

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A pick of large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries.

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.

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IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your aa tourist is aa privilege privilege and and an anart. art.The Theglorious glorioushistory historyofof tourist in in Venice Venice is the Serenissima left stunning examples of architecture throughout the Serenissima left stunning examples of architecture throughout the rich cultural cultural heritage. heritage.This Thisheritage heritage the city, city, handing down a rich encompasses of small small yet yet fundamental fundamentaldecrees. decrees.Venice Venice encompasses a number of isis an and deserves deservesto tobe betreated treatedwith withrespect respect an ‘elegant ‘elegant grand dame’ and by obeying the protocols of good behaviour. Where® Venice has by obeying of good behaviour. Where® Venice has drawn handbook of of‘do’s ‘do’s and and‘don’ts’ ‘don’ts’to toensure ensurethat that drawn up up a small handbook visitors fully enjoy enjoy the thecity citywhile whilehonouring honouringitsits visitors have have a chance to fully people, monuments monuments and local people, local traditions. traditions. w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c om 3

[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town

Palazzo Ducale

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

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be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built

MORE AT PAGE 50 MAP PAGES 62-63

as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plaguestricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4 

PHOTO © DANIMISRA

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4 

Canal Grande

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower

Ponte dei Sospiri

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

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VITTORIO ZECCHIN: TRANSPARENT GLASS FOR CAPPELLIN AND VENINI

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

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SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

GLASSMAKING

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THE ART OF FIRE

This year will see the launch of an initiative linked to the tradition and techniques of glassmaking both SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER in Venice (Murano) and abroad. This is an important event showcasing glass, an artistic and economic resource for which the lagoon city is famous throughout the world. Since the very beginning, the artisanal production of glass has marked the history of Venice and will continue to do so in the future by drawing inspiration from the past. Venice is gearing up to host more than 140 events in numerous locations across the city. In addition to exhibitions, conventions, seminars, screenings and educational activities, several renowned furnaces will open their doors to the public to celebrate and revive the city’s time-honoured ‘art of fire’. The Venice Glass Week will kick off with the opening of the exhibition Vittorio Zecchin: Transparent Glass for Cappellin and Venini, curated by Marino Barovier for ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’. The exhibition will focus on 250 fine hand-blown mostly monochrome works designed by Vittorio Zecchin between 1921 and 1926. Venice Glass Week. 1st edition. www.theveniceglassweek.com Vittorio Zecchin: Transparent Glass for Cappellin and Venini. Le Stanze del Vetro - Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, until 7 January 2018. Open 10am-7pm, closed on Wednesdays. Free entrance. www.lestanzedelvetro.org - www.cini.it

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES BIENNALE

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VIVA ARTE VIVA

► The 57th Art Biennale is an event that attracts the world’s best contemporary artists and offers visitors an amazing MAY NOVEMBER selection of works, installations, live performances, and multiple opportunities to reflect on the present. Human beings, their creative ability and their need for interaction take centre stage at this edition chaired by Paolo Baratta and curated by Parisian-born Christine Macel, Chief Curator at the Musée d’Art Moderne at the Pompidou Centre.

The theme of this edition is ‘Viva Arte Viva’, an exclamation, a passionate appeal for art and the state of the artist which, according to Christine Macel ,“celebrates mankind’s ability, through art, to avoid being dominated by world affairs. The artistic act is simultaneously an act of resistance, liberation and generosity.” Out of the 120 artists who have been invited to the exhibition, 103 are participating for the first time. The exhibition is hosted at two venues - the Arsenale and the Giardini - and features 87 national pavilions, each with its own curator and project, as well as an international exhibition organized by the Biennale di Venezia. To highlight the theme of this 57th edition, a cornucopia of live performances will be staged during the six months of the exhibition. The majority of these performances will be held at Central Pavilion, designed as a trans-national pavilion. For more information visit the website www.labiennale.org.

▲ Roberto Cuoghi. Imitation of Christ, 2017. Installation view at Padiglione Italia. Work in progress. 57th Venice Art Biennale. Photo credit Roberto Marossi

MULTIMEDIA TOUR

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INTERACTIVE GIOTTO

► To commemorate the 750th anniversary of the birth of Giotto, the Scuola Grande della Misericordia has created an interactive exhibition featuring JULY NOVEMBER reproductions of his work and a guided, hour-long itinerary. The visitor’s experience is enhanced with the narration of texts and musical accompaniment dedicated to the famous medieval artist. Titled ‘Magister Giotto’, this multimedia project is the first installment of an artistic trilogy; in 2018, it will showcase the neo-classical sculptor Canova and, in 2019, the Renaissance artist Raphael. This interactive exhibition will allow visitors to explore Giotto’s masterpieces in a new way. Get up close and personal with his Franciscan Allegories of Assisi, the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, and his majestic crucifixes. Learn how science and art came together in the ‘Giotto Mission’ of 1986 developed by the European Space Agency which, for the first time in history, intercepted Halley’s Comet, pictured in the Adoration of the Magi in the Scrovegni Chapel (see photo).

Magister Giotto Scuola Grande della Misericordia. Cannaregio, 3599 www.magistergiotto.com 8 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

SEPTEMBER ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE

ART

► 2017 ◄ AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (30 August-9 September) The 74th Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and directed by Alberto Barbera.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. The Venice Glass Week (10-17 September) Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October) Venicemarathon (22 October)

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PICASSO: THE MEDITERRANEAN YEARS

▲ Until 7 January 2018, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection presents the AUGUST JANUARY exhibition PICASSO. On the Beach curated 2018 by Luca Massimo Barbero. The exhibition is a collaboration with the Musée Picasso of Paris, and focuses on one of Peggy Guggenheim’s favorite works of art, Picasso’s ‘On the Beach’ (La Baignade, 1937) as well as two other paintings, ten drawings and a sculpture, all works completed by Pablo Picasso between February and December 1937. The show is part of a program of seminars, publications, studies, and exhibitions tied to the three-year Picasso-Méditerranée project whose aim is to explore and shed new light on the connections the Spanish artist had with the Mediterranean.

PICASSO. On the Beach c/o Peggy Guggenheim Collection-Project Rooms. Dorsoduro, 704. www.guggenheim-venice.it

EXHIBITION

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CHORAL DIALOGUE

This multimedia exhibition project is the result of an ongoing, in-depth exchange between filmmaker Alexander Kluge, photographer MAY NOVEMBER Thomas Demand and stage and costume designer Anna Viebrock. Cinema, art and theatre intersect at Fondazione Prada with this collaborative project that merges what are usually distinct artistic forms of expression. At this exhibition titled ‘The Boat is Leaking. The Captain Lied’, visitors can create their own narrative, by moving physically and conceptually through the visual imagery of the three artists. The Boat is Leaking. The Captain Lied. Fondazione Prada. Ca’ Corner della Regina. Santa Croce, 2215 (Calle de Ca’ Corner) www.fondazioneprada.org

NOVEMBER Concert Season-Grand Opening (3 November ) > Schubert’s Legacy is the title of the 2017-2018 Symphony Season. Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day. Opera and Ballet Season-Grand Opening (24 November ) > “Un Ballo in Maschera” by Giuseppe Verdi is the first date of the Opera Season 2017-2018. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica ► 2018 ◄

JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert (1 January) > Myung-Whun Chung is to conduct the 15th edition of the New Year’s Concert. Regata delle Befane > 6 January FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice (27 January-13 February) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. On Saturday 27, the “Festa Veneziana” (Carnival Grand Opening). APRIL Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial (28 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Biennale Architettura 2018 (26 May-25 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > The 16th International Architecture Exhibition is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara. Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 13 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. Feast of San Piero de Casteo > 24 June -1 July Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (15 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 9

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The best-loved red carpet

The red carpet of the oldest film festival in the world is the place where Hollywood stars showcase their most dazzling ensembles. In this photo, taken on 7 September 2016, a smiling Natalie Portman shows off her natural beauty as she signs autographs for fans attending the premiere of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Jackieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; at the 73rd Venice Film Festival.

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The world’s spotlight will be trained on Venice and the 74th International Film Festival until 9 September. The festival is thought to be the most glamorous event on the showbiz calendar, and every year, stars, directors and VIPs flock to the Lagoon. At the end of summer, the Venice Film Festival turns the sleepy Lido into a mini Hollywood, attracting rising stars of the screen, eager to be photographed, plus hordes of fans, film buffs and onlookers. B Y S I M O N A P. K . D A V I D D I

PHOTO: MATTEO CHINELLATO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

lthough, Venice never loses its ability to enchant, as summer comes to an end, the International Film Festival and the aura of glamour surrounding it attracts not only the cognoscenti of the movie industry but thousands who, despite having nothing to do with the official events, are eager to participate in the glitz and the glamour, soak up the atmosphere of exclusive parties and endless gossip, catch sight of actors and directors and, if they’re lucky, take selfies with a movie star. Perhaps because they’ve fallen victim to the city’s irresistible charm, celebs, when in Venice, tend to be particularly generous with fans, and it’s easy to meet them in the halls of the most elegant hotels, at top restaurants or in exclusive boutiques. Fans will also have a chance to watch celebrities, wearing sumptuous outfits strutting their stuff on the red carpet or attending some ritzy party either on a magnificent terrace or at one of the city’s stunning historic palazzos. As well as the press hype, there’s the real festival, the actual competition, boasting a line-up of 20 world premiere feature films, all contending for the festival’s prestigious Gold or Silver Lion awards. These coveted, winged-lion statues, the symbol of Venice, are awarded by an international jury to the best film screened during the competition at the festival, and to the best director in the competitive section. In addition to the prestigious official selection ‘Venezia 74’, other sections have been created over the years to increase the viewing experience at the happening. For example, the ‘Out of Competition’ section now features documentaries; ‘Venice Classics’ is dedicated to re-runs of restored cult movies; ‘Orizzonti’ features up-and-coming directors and trends; ‘International Critics’ Week’ promotes eight films chosen from among the debut works presented, and ‘Venice Days’ an independent section promoted by the Italian Association of Filmmakers. Other highly sought-after awards, presented at the closing ceremony on the last day of the festival, include the ‘Volpi Cup’ (based on the name of one of the founders of the festival) for the best actress and best actor, awarded last year to the beautiful Emma Stone for her role as an aspiring actress in La La Land; the Premio w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 11

WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Among the innovations announced, this year’s festival will see an unusual role reversal. For the first time in Venice, a patron rather than a patroness has been chosen to host the festival, and this year, after an 11-year run of male presidents, the position of Jury President will be held by a woman. American actress, Annette Bening a four-time Oscar nominee (The Grifters, 1991; American Beauty, 1999; Being Julia, 2004 and The Kids Are All Right, 2010), has been named President of the jury, while Alessandro Borghi, one of the leading figures of the new generation of Italian actors, has been chosen to host the opening and closing events of the Festival. The addition of a new competitive section titled ‘Venice Virtual Reality’ dedicated to films made for virtual-reality viewing is also noteworthy. The Venice Biennale, the umbrella under which the Film Festival falls, has decreed that virtual reality is an emerging art form and deserves both its own competition and an ad hoc theatre, the ‘VR Theatre’ created in 2016 at the Lido’s Palazzo del Casinò. PAST HISTORY Since its inception, the Venice Film Festival has been attended by almost every major name in the world of showbiz and the list of anecdotes is endless: from the divine Marlene Dietrich, who graced the red carpet in 1937, to Sean Connery, who in 1967 sped into the 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

GUEST STARS IN VENICE Above, American actress Annette Bening, President of the Jury of the 2017 Competition. On the right, Mel Gibson’s return to the Lido in 2016, with ‘Hacksaw Ridge’, his fifth feature film as a director. Below. Hollywood screen legends of the Fifties immortalized in Venice: Brigitte Bardot (1958) and, at the side, Anna Magnani with Alberto Sordi (1956).

PHOTO © COURTESY ASAC - LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA

VENEZIA 74 OFFICIAL SELECTION The line-up of films scheduled to premiere at the Venice Film Festival was announced at the end of July, at the time of going to press. In addition to marking the return of Italian cinema, this edition will feature an all-star program of international guests including George Clooney, Matt Damon and Jennifer Lawrence. Vying for the Golden Lion this year are 21 world premieres featuring dominant themes such as family and immigration. In particular, following the opening of the fest with Alexander Payne’s Downsizing, other notable blockbusters include Human Flow directed by Ai Weiwei, and Darren Aronofsky’s psychodrama Mother!, starring Michelle Pfeiffer, Jennifer Lawrence and Javier Bardem. Other must-sees are George Clooney’s Suburbicon and The Shape of Water directed by Guillermo del Toro.

PHOTOS © COURTESY ASAC - LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA

(Prize) for the best screenplay, the Golden Lion Career Award, won in 2016 by JeanPaul Belmondo and Jerzy Skolimowski; the Marcello Mastroianni Award for the best emerging actor or actress and the Orizzonti Award for the best original screenplay.

PHOTO © COURTESY ASAC - LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA

A ‘pride’ of movie stars

Although every day of the 74th International Film Festival offers a different event to mark in your diary, the 1st of September is definitely one of the festival’s hottest dates. On this occasion, the ceremony to award the Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement will take place in the Sala Grande of the Palazzo del Cinema. This year, this prestigious prize will be awarded to Robert Redford and Jane Fonda, whose remarkable number of films marks an important chapter in the history of international cinema. Jane Fonda’s career took off in 1960 with the film, Tall Story starring Antony Perkins. Numerous hits and two Oscar awards, one in 1973 for Klute, and one in 1979 for Coming Home followed. She collaborated with many icons of the silver screen, including Katherine Hepburn, Marlon Brando, Michael Caine and Donald Sutherland. Fonda and Redford first worked together in The Chase in 1966, and a year later played newlyweds in Barefoot in the Park. They also starred opposite each other in The Electric Horseman in 1979. Redford launched his directing career with Ordinary People, which won best picture at the Academy Awards. In 1981 he founded the Sundance Institute, which defined him as an icon of Independent cinema. Redford’s multiple hit movies include the Academy award winning Out of Africa in which he starred with Meryl Streep. After many years, Fonda and Redford once again share the screen in the Netflix original film ‘Our Souls at Night’ based on the novel by Kent Haruf. The film is produced by Robert Redford and directed by Indian director Ritesh Batra. In honor of their shared awards, the film will premiere out-of-competition during the Venice Film Festival after Redford and Fonda collect their Golden Lions. (by Giulia Minero)

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS Johansson, Nicole Kidman, George Clooney, Kevin Costner, Martin Scorsese, Harrison Ford and the Italians: Alberto Sordi, Sofia Loren, Monica Bellucci, Claudia Cardinale, Pier Paolo Pasolini and Gina Lollobrigida, who turned 90 this year. Even Charlie Chaplin attended the event in 1972, as did the eccentric Salvador Dalì in 1958. THE LIDO: AN UNEXPECTED WONDER You may say Venice, but you actually mean the Lido. The Lido, meaning beach in Italian, is that narrow strip of land extending for about a dozen kilometres in front of the Serenissima. It’s here that the Film Festival is set. In fact, the Lido has played host to the Film Festival since August 1932, when the first edition of the ‘Festival di Arte Cinematografica’ was held on the terrace of the Lido’s most iconic hotel, the Hotel Excelsior, attended by all the film stars of that time, including Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, Vittorio De Sica and Joan Crawford. Since then, the fame of the Lido – for many years

the playground of the international jet set and half of Europe’s crowned heads due to its golden beaches and clear blue sea – has been inextricably linked to the event. As the Festival’s reputation grew, a special location, the Palazzo del Cinema, built in record time in 1937 to host the growing number of attendees, was assigned to the event. Located on the Marconi promenade, this modernist building acts as a backdrop to the eagerly awaited, star-studded red carpet parade.

GLAMOUR IN BLACK AND WHITE Crowds gather in the courtyard of the Ducal Palace in this rare image of the 1947 Venice Film Festival. The event, which ‘relocated’ from the Lido during the post-war period, returned to its historic headquarters at the Lido the following year.

LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA, ASAC, FOTOTECA, SERIE CINEMA PHOTO: STUDIO FOTOGRAFICO GIACOMELLI

Lido, 007-style, at the helm of a water taxi; from the proverbial fights between Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton to the former King Edward VIII, who arrived in 1956 on the arm of his wife Wallis Simpson, for whom he had abdicated the throne of England; from Brigitte Bardot’s whirlwind romance with French jazz guitarist/singer Sasha Distel in 1958 to Paul Newman, who in 1963, while riding on a water taxi was immortalized in a photograph that was destined to become one of the most popular and captivating shots ever taken of the handsome actor. More recently, there was the former Pitt-Jolie couple, who for days in 2007 overshadowed all the other stars present; a heavier-looking Johnny Depp, now typecast in the role of the pirate Jack Sparrow; the unpredictable Madonna, who in 2011 attempted for the nth time to convince the critics of her talent as a director and actress. And then again, in no particular order, Federico Fellini, Al Pacino, Sean Penn, Salma Hayek, Woody Allen, Marlon Brando, Scarlett

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ER ALL FOND. CAMPO DE ialto Bridge is one of the E V SARTO I RI ENI LE ERBE ER most famous and widely CAMPO F DE LA CARITA’ photographed landmarksO Nof DA C ME N CORTE DEL Venice. Not only the undisputed TA REMER PR IU CAL icon of postcards and ‘selfies’, but R IO LE D LI TER EL V À BA O LT O RBA also the oldest bridge in the city FRU R A M O TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL O RA L (until 1854 it was the only means of crossing POZETO DE ORO the Grand Canal on foot). Located in the CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA picturesque Rialto neighbourhood, it is a heady mint was located at its easternmost end. in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose S CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO mix of shops, eateriesT Rand In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit VALMARANA A D architecture, where DEL PESTRIN CA A LL C O RT E the days are marked by theNcries of the vendors a mobile structure, a sort of drawbridge that and vegetables. E VA B ATA G I A O of its famous, bustling market Vand allowed larger craft to sail under it, and its name Although a visit to thisRISmarket means elbowingCORTE CO A by the CORTESE CAMPIELLO comings and goings of Venetians and tourists was changed to the Rialto bridge, possibly one’s way among throngs ofSTELLA Venetian shoppers, CORTE NO who are either in search of a traditional ‘osteria’ due to its association with the nearby district of the market nevertheless boasts two gems of CAMPIELLO or ‘bacaro’ for an ‘ombra de vin’ or a ‘cicheto’, or Rivalto, or ‘high bank’. historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL GAB LE looking to make purchase from one of the A dark period followed. In fact, DELLA duringCASON this time, back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime Càa d'Oro R IE LI innumerable artisanal ‘botteghe’ that line its ‘calli’ the bridge collapsed and was damaged several and symbolic decorations, including a number C A M P I E L L O of esoteric elements that are mixed in with and ‘campielli’ and flank both sides of the bridge. times. The daring but scenically impact-making N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M L E on new design (1591) submitted by Antonio da the fish, lobsters I D and octopi sculpted S C U the W OLE E LL A FROM HISTORY TO LEGEND Ponte consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch capitals ofC its colonnade. More attentive visitors CAMPO The history of this iconic bridge dates back to span, supported by a broad rectangular deck will also noticeNOVA a marble plaque embedded S.MARIA CAMPO DELLA CAL LE L Ashows the year 1000 when it was built as a pontoon carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ in one of its red brick facades, which N PESCARIA RGA IA ANZ G. AN C S A D A bridge at the canal’s narrowest point. Due to fronting on three roadways. regulations set centuries ago for minimumG A L L IN A S A L IZ RI O allowable sizes for lagoon fish. increased traffic it was replaced with a wooden DE CAMPO DE LA IM IR bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della THE FAMOUS MARKET BECARIE San Giovanni AC CAL OL LE D CAMPO CAMPO Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had CurrentlyGrisostomo Venice’s market par excellence, it is FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS EL F I ORN CESARE BATTISTI O CAL L E C means shopping. While SANTI GIOVA GIÀ the city’s to pay when crossing it and because divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught However, Rialto also AST ELL DELLA I strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when E PAOLO Teatro Malibran BELLA VIENNA CAMPO C A LL E D E LEseveral crossing its bridge, you’ll come across SAN GIACOMETO ERBE CA CORTE SECONDA DE M unusual shops that are imbued with the L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION SA L NS LO atmosphere of a bygone era. ON di Rialto I Casa di Marco Polo These include antique shops, artisans’ CAMPO workshops, old book binding shops where MPIELLO RIALTO Fontego EL SOL NUOVO books are still bound according to timedei Tedeschi honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling NO VA CA C. D original creations made from Murano glass LLE Aponal TA DEL RA EL F DEL C .M ONT A RT P IO EGO HE M Bhand, those in search of G IN E other beads. On the Ponte O NG RU O D. P CAL LE G ALL SA an amazing experience, should head to the di Rialto CO E IA CAMPO ZZO CORTE LIZ TRE ZA CAMPO AL DEL SAN BORTOLOMIO DA old post officeDEL which now houses the recently PRESTRIN VOLTO PIO CAMPO X SAN LIO opened T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, highRialto CAMPIELLO San Silvestro end shopping center and a magnificent feat of CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL IZ A DE FORMOSA DA architecture that has been updated to brilliantly FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA C ZZO balance the old with new. The building boasts a Fontego ALLE L AR C. LA RGA marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree GA CORTE DEL Santa Maria Dolfin Manin MA ZZ Palazzo Rava CORTE SABION CAMPO IN view over Venice. I DEL MONDO della Fava C. DE CAMPOIELLO DE LA FAVA Rialto CORTE NUOVO L CAL ICE DE LA PASINA MA RZA (Palazzo Cavalli) SAN SALVADOR o della Consolazione RIA

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

◄ TIFFANY & CO. The new ‘Tiffany City HardWear’ collection is elegantly subversive and captures the spirit of the women of New York City. This wrap bracelet in 18k gold is a modern interpretation of an archival design from 1971. www.tiffany.it

GUIDE This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

► CHANEL Citrusy notes of lemon, neroli, orange and mandarin combine with ylang-ylang, musk and hints of jasmine in ‘N°5 L’Eau’, a fresh, youthful fragrance. www.chanel.com

◄ VERSACE Crafted in calfskin leather, the ‘DV One’ revisits the squared lines of structured bags of the past, enhancing them with two inner pockets, suede side gussets, a Medusa logo clasp fastening and brightly coloured 3D flowers. www.versace.com

▲ SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER

These two evocatively named solitaires embody the art of supreme craftsmanship. ‘Aurora’ features a rose gold stem set with a central 3.11 carat, marquise-cut diamond and 146 diamonds totalling a weight of 1.16 carats. ‘Aprile’ is characterized by a central, 6.19 carat emerald-cut diamond set on a rose gold stem encrusted with 128 diamonds totalling a weight of 0.69 carats. www.salvadori-venezia.com

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FOR HER

► VENINI Available in two sizes, these blown hand-worked vases made of coloured ‘retorte’ glass canes are an expression of Venini’s superior, authentic craftsmanship. www.venini.com

◄ GIORGIO ARMANI The designer’s clean-cut elegant aesthetic is translated into extra-large, geometricallyJEANS BOOT shaped accessories like this calfskin leather bag. Roomy, with a magnetic-snap fastener, it exemplifies Armani’s timeless style. www.armani.com

FOR HIM

► ROLEX Robust yet elegant, the ‘Cosmograph Daytona’ features an 18K yellow gold case, a champagne and black dial and a high-precision mechanical movement. A blend of high technology and sleek aesthetics, this version is fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet. www.rolex.com

▼ MONTBLANC The design of the resin and platinum ‘Writers Edition Antoine Saint-Exupéry Limited Edition’ is inspired by the cockpit of the plane piloted by the writer, while the nib features a star engraving in reference to the star illustration from Le Petit Prince. www.montblanc.com

▲ CLARKS modern take on the timeless C L A R K DA L E G O B I O L I V E S UA ED E Chelsea boot, this ‘Clarkdale Gobi’ featuring a rubber and leather sole is a versatile staple of the male wardrobe. Available in 3 colours. www.clarks.com

► ETRO Boasting a chic paisley print and multi-colour details, this soft cashmere scarf adds an elegant touch of colour to any look. The ideal accessory for a cool summer evening. 52 www.etro.com

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SHOPPING R

.C E T R R A V E L E

The emotion of a jewel Boasting more than 160 years of history, the Salvadori Diamond Atelier interprets every desire with style and experience, offering women emotions that go straight to the heart. By Stefania Vida

alvadori established its first store in the magical city of Venice in 1857. At that time, it only carried watches, period bedside and travel alarm clocks, grandfather clocks and wall clocks. However, it was only thanks to Gabriele Pendini, the company’s longtime president who had a passion for gemstones, that Salvadori became a tangible expression of high-class, sought-after jewelry. Gabriele Pendini, who is a member of the most important diamond exchanges in the world, Antwerp and Tel Aviv, is thus certified to purchase and sell diamonds freely. Over time, Salvadori began specializing in the industry, becoming a real ‘Diamond Atelier’ where, beginning with the design, each piece of exquisite jewelry is handmade and

20 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

emblazoned with the prestigious Salvadori marquee. The diamonds chosen for each and every creation are distinguished by their unparalleled cut, colour, clarity and carat, which serve to intensify their dazzling brilliance. Additionally, they all come with either HRD (the Hooge Raad voor Diamond of Antwerp) or GIA (Gemological Institute of America) certification. Today, the company is managed by Gabriele's daughters, Monica, managing director, and Marzia, jewel designer. In addition to its peerless craftsmanship, Salvadori also champions good causes. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of its jewelry is used to support humanitarian projects in collaboration with Actionaid, an international non-governmental organization.

>> Salvadori Diamond Atelier Piazza San Marco, 67 T: 041 5230609 www.salvadori-venezia.com

Pink Salvadori Abbraccio bracelet

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By March 2017, over 450,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 35,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.

Anatema

Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Artistic glass in Murano

Fanny Gloves

Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fannygloves. it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2

Francis Model

Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giovanna Zanella

For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www. giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giuliana Longo

A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

La Parigina

An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury

Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws and all the glass workshops were moved to Murano. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. During the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal and their works are true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano today has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini). sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map

Michele De Fina

Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques. DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHITfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIORwww.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

FENDIwww.fendi.com San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BULGARIwww.bulgari.com San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4

FRATELLI ROSSETTIwww.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5

CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5

DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4

MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAwww.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

MICHAEL KORSwww.michaelkors.comwww.michaelkors.it San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Map F5

ETROwww.etro.com San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5 MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5 MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

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GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

CHOPARDwww.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

FURLAwww.furla.com San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

MONTBLANCwww.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5 Created by DAMIANI for the ‘D.Icon’ collection, this ceramic ring embodies a perfect blend of tradition and innovation.

PRADAwww. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

RENÉ CAOVILLA www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli. com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5

These leather lace-up sneakers by HUGO BOSS add a touch of sophisticated elegance to even the most casual look.

ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

Sizing Women clothes IT 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

EUR 32 34 36 38 40 42 44

US 1 2 4 6 8 10 12

UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Women shoes IT 36 37 38 39 40 41

EUR 36 37 38 39 40 41

US 6 6.5 7.5 8.5 9 9.5

UK 3 4 5 6 7 8

Men clothes IT 50 52 54 56 58 60

EUR 46 48 50 52 54 56

US 36 38 40 42 44 46

UK 36 38 40 42 44 46

Men shoes

A new adaptation of the GIORGIO ARMANI style: fluid silhouettes where colours emerge from absolure black, as inlays conveying rhythm.

An industrial achievement comprising only 51 components, the ‘Sistem Check’ by SWATCH is a part of the ‘Sistem51 Irony’ collection.

IT 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

EUR 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

US 7.5 8 8.5 9 10.5 11.5 12

UK 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

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SHOPPING René Caovilla

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

SV Lab

As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find

artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta

Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store

The Rialto Market

Rialto Market A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This is one of Venice’s most ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians, shopkeepers and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. If you’d like to try the famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be found in the area. Several of these bars face

onto the opposite side of the building, on a magnificent plaza crowded with tables, and from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early morning, on any day of the week (except Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are located under a loggia near the Grand Canal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory measures, proclaimed by the Republic of Venice, can still be found on the walls! >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amnoon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30am1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 (Campo della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from Campo Santa Sofia (€2).

SHOPPING offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano

An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www. boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì

Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Madein-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior

Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

(Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet

With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village

Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the

Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet

A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boncompagni Venezia

This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier

In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi

The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi

www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148

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SHOPPING Chopard

Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while Crafted in rose gold and set with either a Blue Topaz its traditional watches are made or a Lemon Quartz, these rings are part of the new with all the aplomb of a master ‘Nudo Assoluto’ collection by POMELLATO. craftsman. Open daily 10.15am6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. stop). Map F4 At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the

Damiani

A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Dodo

An exclusive perfume In addition to its other lines, at the boutiques of Venetian artistic perfumery brand, The Merchant of Venice, you can discover the Rosa Moceniga eau de parfum: a delicate floral fragrance that embodies the essence of this exquisite flower imported to Europe from the plains of Central China a few centuries ago. This rare species, whose name derives from the Mocenigo family, is distinguished by its distinctive silvery pink petals whose colour varies depending on the season in which it blooms. The eau de parfum has a strong, fruity scent, the perfect expression of a rose in its natural habitat, an olfactory composition created by a revered ‘nose’ using natural raw materials to recreate the sensuality of the Moceniga rose perfume. The fragrance is contained in an elegant glass bottle inspired by the style and colour of this sought-after species. www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei vetrai, 114 (Murano). T: 041 5274297.

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The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Gems of Venice

For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Map E4

IWC Schaffhausen

Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of highend watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Jaeger-LeCoultre

A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Nardi Venezia

A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Omega

Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one

excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Pomellato

Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794

The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Roma 1947

‘Roma 1947’, the jewelry brand inspired by ‘La Dolce Vita’ and Italian style, recently launched its first standalone store just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Crafted in silver and bronze, and reinterpreted in a contemporary key, the brand’s rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings reference the voluptuous shapes of Roman domes and the colours of the Eternal City’s stunning sunset views. Open daily 9.30am-8pm. roma1947.it. San Marco, 231. T: 041 5223704. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

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EN T E RCa’ Macana crafts authentic V O LT production and parties. DI À BA O S RBA FRU RAMO TAthat DEL M R IO L Venetian handmade masks in the same way CORTE DEL ORA Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones POZETO DE ORO artisans did 800 years ago, never repeating a CAMPIELLO in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker FO DE LA MADONNA decoration in order to ensure that each mask is Ca' Pesaro N to master luxury sports chronographs with an ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia RA alleria Internazionale unique. Thanks to their expertise, VALMARANA they also hold DEL PESTRIN unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant DA CA L C O RT E LE San Lazzaro NO d'Arte Moderna conferences and courses on the history of Venetian V B ATA G I A AR quest for innovation, excellence, performance and VA IS Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti masks and traditional mask-making techniques. CORTESE CAMPIELLO prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the STELLA CORTE NOVA Their masks were featured in important film Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. Santi including Apostoli productions “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley CAMPIELLO www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL TI OZ GAB LE CASON those staged by the Cà d'Oro Kubrick and in operas DELLA including San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto R IE ZI LI Vienna Opera House. stop). Map F4 S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica N Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M LE Luterana ID S C UO Tiffany & Co. LE Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. ALLE W C Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a CAMPO Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: S.MARIA NOVA DELLA CAL world-renowned its introduction LE San Cassianojeweller. SinceCAMPO 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). 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VONI

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PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

VENETIANS

PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

Eredi Jovon

Eredi Jovon's cameo

La Bottega dei Mascareri

Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy… for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3

Tessitura Bevilacqua La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked

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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP Eredi Jovon daily crafts fully handmade cameos, created upon request based on a picture. All creations can be ordered online and shipped all around the world, thanks to an efficient e-commerce service. Open daily 10am7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto,

Piedàterre

5325. T: 041 5228979 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). Map F4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3 Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map E5

ADVERTORIAL

OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Map F4 www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it T:San 02 xxxxx Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). More www.wheremilan.com T: 041info: 5223427.

NICOLAO ATELIER An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Map E2

www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.

OTTICA MANUELA Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Map E4 San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268

OFFICINA BERNARDI The Bernardi brothers, Francesco and Carlo, recently opened their first monobrand store in the city. Authentic Italian style, exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship characterize the precious gold and silver collections of this brand who have made Italian creativity their signature feature. Map F5

www.officinabernardi.com Piazza San Marco, 110. T: 041 5287906 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29

SHOPPING

Discovering Venice’s art galleries

VENETIANS

Galleria Contini

PHOTO © COURTESY THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI

Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com).

Victoria Miro Gallery. Chris Ofili, Poolside Magic 8.

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Newcomers? Coinciding with the launch of the Biennale, Venice’s gallery scene has been further enriched by the opening of a new branch of Galerie Alberta Pane. The new, 300-square-meter space, a former carpentry shop turned art gallery, will create an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery will allow artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations and will offer artist workshops and talks on contemporary art as part of its programs (Dorsoduro 2403/h, www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer

Galerie Alberta Pane. Christian Fogarolli, Project of Phantom Model of Prof. Chr. Aeby.

SHOPPING

has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com).

Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its indepth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www.berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com).

Galleria L'Occhio. Tobia Ravà, 948 vortice di pace.

Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).

Bugno Art Gallery

OhMyBlue. Liisa Hashimoto, Leaf Garden ring.

Berengo Studio 1989. Aldo Mondino, Jongleur.

Luce Arte Moderna. Riccardo Licata, Untitled.

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SHOPPING

Top antiques

VENETIANS

Tessitura Bevilacqua

Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Our city reporter Stefano Traine has selected the most important. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

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Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Antichità San Samuele

Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Alessandro Zoppi

SHOPPING

Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio

Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4

Venetia Studium

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Ca' Nova

Franco Dell'Orto

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VENETIANS

ADVERTORIAL

BUGNO ART GALLERY Since it first opened in 1991, in addition to supporting Venetian artistic movements, the gallery has also co-operated with well-known international contemporary artists. It currently collaborates with the Archives of Armando Pizzinato and Mario Deluigi. In 2004, besides art, it also began to focus on photography with renowned Italian photographers. In 2016, it enlarged its spaces and in 2017 it opened a new showroom at the JW Marriott in Venice. Map E4 www.bugnoartgallery.com San Marco, 1996/d. T: 041 5231305

ELISABETTA ZANUTTO Raised in a family of antique dealers but also artists and sculptors, Elisabetta Zanutto’s passion for art was instilled at an early age. After honing her skills as a restorer, she took her passion for Venetian art (from its lagoon to male and female figures) to new heights, in an ongoing search for visionary, ephemeral subjects. Map E5

www.elisabettazanutto.it San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste). T: 041 5235359

MELORI & ROSENBERG Established in 1996 and located in Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, Melori & Rosenberg was the first gallery to exhibit contemporary art in Venice’s Jewish Ghetto. The sole Italian representative of Luigi Rocca’s artwork (one of the world’s bestloved and most widely appreciated hyperrealist painters), the Gallery also showcases a carefully chosen selection of works by other well-known Italian and international artists. Map D2 www.melori-rosenberg.com Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 2750039

ANTICHI SPLENDORI Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Map F4 Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio). T: 041 5239265. More info: www.where-venice.com 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

VENETIANS

ADVERTORIAL

BAC ART STUDIO After experimenting in different artistic works at different locations, the studio recently relocated to Calle delle Botteghe where, in addition to displaying valuable collector’s items in glass, ceramics and porcelain, it also features contemporary paintings and sculptures. Other offshoots include a graphics ‘workshop’, the production of numbered photographs, an art gallery and an ‘editorial’ section. Map E4 www.bacart.com San Marco, 3451 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 2412898

LA SALIZADA GALLERIA Specializing in historic photography, and opened in 2011 by Alberto De Giulio, it hosts works originating from several of Italy’s most important historical archives, including the Florence-based Fratelli Alinari Archives of Photographic Works. A heritage dating from 1852 to the present, interwoven with contemporary photographic exhibitions, works by established and emerging international artists as well as the sale of original period photographs and reproductions. Map E4 www.lasalizada.it San Marco, 3448 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 2410723

EG ARTE With its offer of contemporary art, Eros Gasparini, the owner of EG Arte, aims to preserve the authenticity of art. In addition to showcasing paintings, sculptures and photography, the space also doubles as an artisanal workshop for the creation of jewelry but also glass and ceramic pieces. Works of art and unique pieces referencing the timeless symbols of the Serenissima. Map E4 San Marco, 1894 (Campo San Fantin). T: 345 7070284

GALLERIA D’ARTE L’OCCHIO Located in the historic centre of Venice, just steps from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, this gallery was established at the beginning of the 1990s to promote the work of young, emerging artists. The gallery recently increased its presence in Venice with the opening of a second exhibition space which hosts solo exhibitions. Map E4 www.gallerialocchio.net Dorsoduro, 181-185. T: 041 5226550 Antichità Zanutto More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35

STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

VENETIANS

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. BY STEFANO TRAINE

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.

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www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523.

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 37

ALINARI ARCHIVES, FLORENCE. UNIDENTIFIED AUTHOR, VENICE, LIDO (CIRCA 1915). FRATELLI ALINARI MUSEUM COLLECTIONS (RMFA), FLORENCE.

LIDO DI VENEZIA

Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. BY ELENA BINDA

The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200m in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle. WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend

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from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club (18 holes) set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered that there was nowhere else where he could play golf. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta,

VENETIANS

ICONIC LANDMARKS. Left, dating back to circa 1935, this ‘Animated view of the Grand Hotel Excelsior on the Lido in Venice’ is a part of the prestigious Alinari Archives of Florence. In addition to other priceless originals in albumin, this period reproduction is available at the La Salizada gallery (page 35). Above, the Grand Hotel Des Bains, closed several years ago. Below, the "Murazzi": a bike tour is the best way to visit the island.

the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.

GOURMET TIPS. The ultimate spot for a relaxing break during the hectic days of the Film Festival, since it first opened La Favorita (below) has attracted celebs and A-listers. Boasting a timeless, intimate ambience, diners can expect an authentic Venetian menu featuring a fabulous selection of traditional fish dishes.

SPECIAL EVENTS - For many years the Lido has been the playground of celebrities and crowned heads. It all begans in the second half of the 19th century when the international jet-set discovered its long sandy beaches. It is therefore not surprising that in August 1932 the terrace of the Hotel Excelsior hosted the first film festival. Then, a special location, the Palazzo del Cinema, was assigned to the most glamorous event of the year. At the end of summer, the festival turns the sleepy Lido into a mini Hollywood, attracting rising stars of the screen, eager to be photographed, plus hordes of fans, film buffs and onlookers. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39

LIDO DI VENEZIA | Meet your friends

LA FAVORITA

LIO

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FOOD IS LOVE & CHARMING BEACH Lungomare Marconi, 58. T. 041 5261872. info@lio-ristorante.it - www.tinoeventi.it

T: 041 5261626

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BUDDHA

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Antichità Zanutto More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 41

PHOTO © TYSON SADLO

DINING

A legend in Venice Raise your hand if you’ve never heard about Harry’s Bar. This must-visit destination for VIP watching has been the favourite place of almost ever celebrity to visit Venice since it first opened. By Stefania Vida

ounded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice (including Ernest Hemingway, Orson Welles, Truman Capote, Georges Braque and Peggy Guggenheim). Today, it is still a must-visit stopover in Venice, a perfect opportunity to savour the slightly retro and fascinating atmosphere of a bygone era. The venue is open daily from 10.30am to 11pm, and is ideal for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! The history of the establishment of this Venetian landmark is definitely worth knowing. The bar was named after Harry Pickering, a young American student who moved to Venice with his 42 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

aunt in the 1920s. After two months, Harry fell out with his aunt, who went away leaving him with her dog and very little money. Giuseppe Cipriani, who was the barman of the hotel where the American was staying, lent him money for his passage home. A few years later, the young man returned to Venice, and, as a sign of gratitude, not only paid Cipriani back the loan but also added an additional sum so that he could open his own bar. Cipriani decided to call his venue ‘Harry’s Bar’ in honour of his young friend, and Harry’s Bar opened on 13 May 1931. >> www.harrysbarvenezia.com San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 528 5777

The Bellini’s cocktail For those who know nothing of its origins, the Bellini was invented in 1948 by Giuseppe Cipriani, the owner of Harry’s bar. Thanks to its pinkish hue, which reminded Cipriani of the colour of the toga worn by a saint in a painting by Giovanni Bellini, he called the cocktail 'Bellini'. The secret ingredients for a perfect Bellini are a mix of a puree of ripe, white peaches and Prosecco or Champagne.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto

Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta

Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta

One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna

Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Antiche Carampane

Antico Martini

Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo

The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-

A Beccafico Arte

It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana

Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza

Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo

A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style

The Met gets a makeover Based on a project by Gloria Beggiato, general manager of the hotel Metropolitan, and Silvia Bisconti, the creative mind behind fashion atelier Raptus & Rose in Belluno, the new Met restaurant features a blend of colours, flavours and atmospheres reminiscent of the East, a geographical region inextricably linked to the history of Venice. Bisconti’s creative skills are apparent in the meticulous choice of fabrics, the colour of the walls and a selection of her atelier’s clothing, artfully showcased in the elegant ambience. In addition to the above, Silvia has also created the Rose Room. This picturesque corner, furnished with sofas covered in pink brocade and pink velvet poufs, is the ideal place to sip an aperitivo or enjoy an intimate dinner, while sampling the culinary delicacies prepared by Chef Luca Veritti, the recipient of a Michelin star in 2013. The Met restaurant celebrates the arrival of each new season with an event or an ad hoc menu. Forthcoming calendar dates include 6 October 2017, 26 January and 6 April 2018. Met Restaurant. Riva del Schiavoni 4149. www.metrestaurantvenice.com

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XII-century church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm10.30 pm. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com The exclusive restaurant offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com Fronting the Grand Canal, this is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

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Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal it offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine. Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients and re-imagined with an innovative twist. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

DINING

Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists, actors and writers, it looks out directly over the Grand Canal. Both lively and intimate, its terrace combines the pleasures of the palate with an evocative view over the lagoon. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables, expressed with maximum taste and harmony. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it For a regenerating lunch break or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, it is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6

Pisanino

Do Leoni

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. www.palazzettopisani.com Located in the noble floor of Palazzetto Pisani, facing the Grand Canal, here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Moreover, try out the Balcony experience, a romantic and unique experience just for two persons on a private balcony facing the Grand Canal, simply enjoy an aperitivo in Venetian style, an exclusive dinner or even a continental breakfast. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Accademia stop). Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

DINING

Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Caffè Florian

Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.

stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Conca d’Oro

Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore

A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 46 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,

transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal

Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal.

1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar

Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon

Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical

DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida

décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Piscina

Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Porta d’Acqua

Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. This restaurant is part of the new "L'Chaim!" Tour (see page 57). venicebeyondtheghetto.com Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.

Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Locanda Cipriani

For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer

Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Map F3

Trattoria Do Forni

The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner

Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of Italian specialties and traditional Venetian dishes. www.kempinski.com/it/venice

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ADVERTORIAL

TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Da Remigio is located in sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s square. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. It offers diners a classical menu of seasonal seafood dishes accompanied by a well-stocked wine list. The venue’s friendly, attentive service makes for an even more enjoyable dining experience.

Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 52300089

LA FAVORITA Situated in the heart of the Lido of Venice, since 1950, this historic family-run trattoria has paid tribute to Venetian cuisine. Its menu, comprised mainly of fish dishes, is inspired by locally-sourced ingredients with a focus on distinct, easily recognizable flavours. Standouts include fish tartare or bigoli with shrimp and artichokes which, during warmer months can be savoured in the garden accompanied by a rich selection of wines and great live music. See page 40 Via Francesco Duodo, 33. Lido di Venezia. T: 041 5261626.

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

ANTICO PIGNOLO The “Antico Pignolo” Restaurant opened in 1930. Its site, however, actually dates back to 1200 when it was used as a blacksmith’s forge which looked after the Doge’s horses. Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties with particular attention to typical Venetian and international cuisine. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and www.xxxxxx.org a well-stocked wine cellar. Viale xxxxx, 6 T:www.anticopignolo.com. 02 xxxxx San Marco, 451 More www.wheremilan.com (Calleinfo: dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice Not only the most famous picture postcard of the city, and the great heart of Venice, St Mark’s is a heady mix of history, art and contradictions. The meeting with this unique city starts here… By Elena Binda

he Basilica of San Marco, with its bell tower and square overlooking the water, is one of Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable (and photographed) landmarks. In addition to being the city’s most important church, the Basilica is a monument to the history of Venice, a grand treasure chest of Venetian art and lavish spoils garnered from the eastern Mediterranean. Its dazzling polychrome façade with its marbles and mosaics, spires and domes, and Venice’s famous winged lion, the symbol of the city for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. The interior, featuring an abundance of exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a not-to-be-missed highlight. While in the area, 50 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

make sure to ascend to the top of its bell tower, which offers superb views over the city. There is no way you cannot visit Venice without visiting St. Mark’s. www.basilicasanmarco.it PLEASE NOTE The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic church that welcomes worshippers and tourists alike. It is open daily for prayer and to allow visitors to admire its extraordinary artistic heritage. However, at certain times or on certain days, it is entirely given over to religious ceremonies and visits are suspended. For more information visit www.basilicasanmarco.it to check that it is open for visits. On entering, visitors are asked to respect the rules: appropriate clothing must be worn, as this is a place of worship. Taking

photographs is forbidden and visitors are asked to lower their voices at all times. For reasons of safety, heavy luggage must be left outside (luggage can be deposited in Ateneo San Basso, in Piazzetta dei Leoncini, in front of the Porta dei Fiori, north facade). Please note that you will probably have to wait for about 45 minutes in order to gain access to the Basilica. However, priority access can be booked at www.venetoinside.com > Attractions and Museums, entry ticket €2. Entry to the Basilica is free-of-charge, but admission to the Museum, the Pala d’Oro and the Bell Tower is not. The whole building (except for the bell tower) is accessible to people with physical disabilities and wheelchair users who can gain entry through the north gate.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco

This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto

This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco

A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject

to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia

Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

VIVA ARTE VIVA

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)

This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal)

Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions

The 57th International Art Exhibition will be open to the public from Saturday 13 May to Sunday 26 November 2017 at the Giardini and Arsenale venues. Opening times: 10am-6pm; 10am-8pm at the Arsenale venue only on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed on Mondays. The 57th International Art Exhibition will also include 87 National Participations in the historic pavilions at the Giardini, the Arsenale, and in the city of Venice. Over 120 artists will participate with their artworks, installations and performances, 103 are participating for the first time. Selected fringe events will be presented by international organizations. www.labiennale.org FOR UPDATES VISIT www.where-venice.com | www.labiennale.org/en/art Official hashtag: #BiennaleArte2017 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 51

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)

Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)

The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am-

7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health)

Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious

celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo

One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini

Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5

Teatro La Fenice

SERENISSIME TRAME

The exhibition ’Serenissime Trame. Carpets from the Zaleski Collection and Renaissance paintings’ will run until Sunday 10 September at the Ca’ d’Oro-based Giorgio Franchetti Gallery. In addition to 26 antique carpets which came to Venice via the trade routes from the East, the exhibition features 6 masterpieces of Renaissance art.

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Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands

Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

| SIGHTSEEING

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art

Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art

The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

THE HEIRESS AND HER LOVE OF ART The niece of Solomon R. Guggenheim, Peggy was born in New York in 1898 into a wealthy Jewish family. Following the death of her father on the Titanic in 1912, Peggy Guggenheim inherited a small fortune, becoming one of the richest women in America. She lived between Paris and London. She became a patron of the arts and a collector of contemporary art. Peggy was always surrounded by artists and lovers: she married the writer and Dadaist painter Laurence Vail and then Surrealist artist Max Ernst. After opening an art gallery in London and another in New York, in 1948 Peggy was invited to exhibit her collection of paintings at the Biennale of Venice. She fell in love with the city where she spent the rest of her life.

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

She died in 1979 and her ashes are buried in a corner of the garden of Palazzo Venier dei Leoni.

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro

The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian.

An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3

Museo Correr

The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro

The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum)

Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)

“Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable” is Damien Hirst’s first major solo exhibition in Italy, displayed across 5,000 sqm at PALAZZO GRASSI and PUNTA DELLA DOGANA. 54 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco

The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the

atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo di Storia Naturale

Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle GuglieGhetto stop). Map D2

Museo Querini Stampalia

The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare

The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public viewing, > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria

Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini. it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www. fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi. it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

| SIGHTSEEING

Peggy Guggenheim Collection The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €15. www. guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Palazzo Ducale

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important

Scuola di San Rocco

The “Scuole Grandi” treasures From the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was used to describe a brotherhood of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, a real kind of welfare system. The ‘Scuole Grandi’ (Devotional Schools) had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and several of the best ones were transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public: the Great School of San Giovanni Evangelista (www.scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www. scuolagrandesanrocco.it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www.scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www.scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it) and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin (www.ateneoveneto.org) were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions.

ADVERTORIAL

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ENTERTAINMENT

“Lo Squero”, music with a view The Cini Foundation recently launched the Squero, a charming auditorium on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and a new, must-visit destination for music in Venice. By Giulia Minero

violin on the sea: surprisingly this is not the title of a film but a new must-visit destination for music lovers in Venice. Its name ‘Lo Squero’ (the Venetian word for a boatyard) harks back to its origins. Formerly, the headquarters of a 19th-century workshop where boats were manufactured and repaired, the space, boasting a spectacular view of the lagoon, was recently converted into a modern, 200-seat auditorium thanks to the intervention of architectural firm Cattaruzza e Millosevich. Despite in-depth renovation work, Lo Squero has not lost any of its former appeal. Accented by references to the Arsenale and inspired by typical Venetian architecture, in addition to its original oak-beamed ceiling, its décor is enhanced by cream-coloured walls and glass 56 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

partitions. A setting designed to please the eyes and the ears. In September, the program dedicated to classical music, the result of a collaborative agreement with the Asolo Music Association, will be enriched by several prestigious concerts, the first of which will be staged on 9 September with a performance of traditional 17th and 18th symphony music by the Sonatori de la Gioiosa Marca, followed on 16 September with a concert by renowned Italian clarinetist Alessandro Carbonare and classical guitarist Oscar Ghiglia. The concert series will end on 24 September with an umissable performance by the Solisti della Fenice. >> Auditorium “Lo Squero”, Fondazione Cini Island of San Giorgio Maggiore

Vaporetto line 2, San Giorgio stop www.cini.it Performances start at 5pm. Tickets can be purchased online at www.boxol.it/auditoriumlosquero

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia

Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona

The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

Teatro Olimpico Vicenza

One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage

Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map

WELLNESS

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it

Boscolo Venezia

Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

JW Marriott Venice

Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map

■ OPERA 2, 7, 16, 20, 23 September L’OCCASIONE FA IL LADRO Music by: Gioachino Rossini Michele Gamba, conductor Elisabetta Brusa, director 29 September and 1, 3, 5, 7 October CEFALO E PROCRI (Malibran Theatre) Music by: Giuseppe Verdi Tito Ceccherini, conductor Valentino Villa, director Biennale Arte 2017, sets and costumes

L’chaim Tour del Ghetto ebraico cultura e golosità kasher Tour of the jewish Ghetto cultures and kosher goodies

‫לחיים‬

The Ghetto, tradition and taste

A new initiative of significant cultural and symbolic interest has launched in Venice. An expert guide will accompany visitors on a tour dedicated to discovering the Ghetto, a city landmark imbued with an old-world atmosphere. The tour includes a visit to three synagogues, the spiritual and artistic heart of the Ghetto, as well as one to the ancient pawn shop, the Banco Rosso or Red Bench (with the screening of a documentary about its history). This will be followed by a stopover at the Ghimel Garden, the only restaurant in the city certified as kosher by the Chief Rabbi of the Venice Community, where, after being welcomed with a traditional Jewish toast "Welcome L'chaim! L'chaim!", guests will be treated to a tasting menu featuring typically Jewish-Venetian cuisine and a selection of strictly kosher wines. For info and reservation: venicebeyondtheghetto.com

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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2 017

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!

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Emergency

Fast Trains Network from Venice ↑ Zürich

7h 10m

6h 38m

Aosta

Varese

3h 11m*

2h 54m*

4h 20m*

5h 06m*

10m

Chivasso

4h 24m*

3h 39m

Bergamo

Padova

3h 10m*

Novara

Cuneo

Brescia

Milano

Asti

2h 35m 2h 35m

5h*

Lodi

4h 58m*

3h 26m*

43m 43m

1h 10m 1h 10m

Piacenza 3h 14m*

3,13*

Pavia

France

Vicenza Verona

Alessandria ←

26m 26m 25m

1h 47m 1h 47m

3h 26m

5h 46m*

San Remo

5h 09m*

Savona

1h 01m

4h 53m*

2h 28m*

Ravenna

6h 11m*

Bologna

← Nice 8h 10m* Marseille 10h 52m* Paris 14h 35m

2h 43m* 2h 28m*

Ferrara

Modena

2h 47m

Genoa

Imperia

57m 1h 04m

2h 29m

Reggio-Emilia

Chioggia

Rovigo

Parma 2h 58m

6h 29m*

Venice

2h 38m*

Vercelli

2h 05m

1h 49m

Venice Mestre

Trento

Como

Trieste

Udine

Lecco 3h 41m*

4h 39m*

7h 40m

Tarvisio Boscoverde

Bolzano

Italy

Ivrea 4h 30m

Airports

Trains

Austria Italy

Switzerland

Turin

↑ Vienna

4h 42m

Chiasso

all pharmacies.

INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

↑ Innsbruck 4h 25m*

6h 03m*

19/06/2017 Map of high-speed trains in northen Italy. Designed for Gruppo PROEDI by Dmitriy Goloub, Typeface used: Tiberino Sans WF

↑ Geneve

POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

1h 29m 1h 29m 1h 25m

La Spezia

5h 22m*

Massa

2h 29m*

4h 18m*

Faenza

4h 14m*

Viareggio

Lucca

3h 49m*

3h 24m*

Forli

2h 40m*

3h 01m*

Empoli

Pisa

Rimini

Florence

Livorno 3h 49m*

Siena

2h 37m

2h 05m 2h 05m 2h 05m

Pesaro

4h 13m*

5h 20m*

Ancona

Arezzo

Piombino

3h 32m

3h 05m*

5h 36m

Grosseto Perugia 4h 51m*

Train lines: Frecciarossa Frecciabianca Frecciargento Italo Thello Eurocity Regional trains

Viterbo

Terni

5h 19m*

4h 35m*

Pescara

Civitavecchia

4h 43m

5h 19m

Rome 3h 24m 3h 45m 3h 33m

Bari ↘ Lecce

7h 24m 8h 51m

*with interchange 5h 10m 5h 05m

Naples ↘

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE

FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:

Tourist Information

Santa Croce

Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

San Polo Dorsoduro

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 59

ESSENTIALS Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ONHOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing Experience" free App, on www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it. • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for Apple and Android smartphones) with the City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you, walking tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia. • New CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center (inside the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": any kind of information on the service and on the city, maps and exchange vouchers. Open daily (from April to November): 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628.

GALEONE VENEZIANO A unique way to visit the lagoon of Venice, while savouring its aristocratic beauty and historical legacy. Built in 2001, to fulfil the dream of ship owner Andrea Longo, the “Galeone Veneziano” is a vessel inspired by ancient galleons, launched by the Serenissima. • Services: revisited with a contemporary twist, the galleon offers all the services of a modern ship: it is a one-of-a-kind location for parties and a great way to amaze your travel companions. A unique location that can be hired for private events, business meetings and incentives, weddings and parties offering guests a special tour, with or without lunch or dinner, while sailing among the islands. The galleon can be decorated with flags and banners. • Events: moreover, every Wednesday and Friday evening, you can book a table for a “Galleon Dinner Cruise in Venice” (by reservation only, just 30 seats): charming candlelight dinner, while sailing in front of Saint Mark’s square and moving on towards Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo. • About the Galeone Veneziano: It can sail all year long as during the winter has a rigid covering and heating; in summer, in case of bad weather it has a protective covering. Equipped with wired audio system with microphones and accessible to the differently-abled. There are two galleons at disposal: each one has the maximum capacity of 146 passengers for private events, 84 seats in case of table service meal. • Information: +39 0421 380006. info@jollyroger.it - www.galeoneveneziano.it

PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!

A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.

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Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.

VENICE HELICOPTER TOURS

Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash). You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice.

Photo: Riccardo Roiter Rigoni

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) .

Aeroporto G. Nicelli – Lido di Venezia T. +39 334 786 0653 info@heliair.it – www.heliair.it

“Join us for an unforgettable experience in Venice”

Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

... Ask only for the Best Service! is the exclusive ticket resale point for the Gran Teatro La Fenice and the Arena of Verona w w w. in t e r n a t io n a llim o u s in e . it Piazzale Roma 496 I-L T: +39 041 5221867 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 61

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ale

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Can

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CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

CANNAREGIO

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San Girolamo

INE

IA N

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

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LL E

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Ponte dei Tre Archi

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

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CAMPIELLO P I AV E

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PISCIN

Sant'Alvise

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Sen

della

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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

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SA LIT A FO NT

NIT

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CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ant'

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Santa Maria delle Penitenti

di S

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CAL

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Venice Map

AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

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Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

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SANTA

DI CATERINA

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Chiesa di Santa Caterina

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100 m

MESTRE

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BURANO

ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

MURANO 10

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

TREPORTI

ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA

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L C O

LA EL

E D E

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CAMPIELLO SAN GIUSEPPE

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MURANO

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CALLE

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CAMPIELLO P. B I G A G L I A

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FON

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ENT

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ORT

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CALLE

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CALLE

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FONDAM

CALLE

Chiesa di San Pietro Martire

CIPRIANO SAN CALLE

CAVALLINO TREPORTI

NTI

Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

GIUSEPPE

CALLE

COLORATA

GIA LLE

CAMPO SAN BERNARDO

BAROVIER CALLE

VIVARINI

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L'A CA

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DEL

SAN

CAL

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TERA’

Santa Maria degli Angeli

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RTI

STRADA

RADI

CAMPO DE LE CASE NOVE

MURANO

TA’

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

CRISTOFORO

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GIANMARIA

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CALLE

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

FONDAMENTA

ORTES CALLE

Cimitero Nuovo

COLORATA

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

VIA

MASENA

ROTONDA

CANOSSIANE

CALLE

LARGA

LA DE

CALLE

Apostoli Santi dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

CALLE

CORDONI DEI STELLA

CALLE CALLE

STELLA

SQUERO

CALLE

DEL

DEI

CALLE

TESTA LA

Rio

Dei

BANDI

MENDICANTI

FONDAMENTAMendicanti

DE CALLE

CASTELLO

GIUSTINA

CAPPUCCINE CALLE

SANTA

DEGLI

ORTI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE

CALLE CAVALLI

MURAZZO

PIETA’

CALLE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CAPPELLO

CALLE

RAMO

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO

MAGNO

Nuove Fondamenta delle

GRECI

CALLE DEI

Canale

STRETA SALIZADA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Rio de San Gerolamo

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL

DOSE DEL

CALLE

DE FONDAMENTA

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

PARADISO DEL

DEL

CALLE

ISEPO

SANT'ANTONIO

COLONNE CALLE

C. D EL

CAR

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

GEN

ERA

INO

TTO

CAL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

SANT'ELENA

VIALE O

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

Teatro Verde

LÒ

Japan Pavilion

MAGGIORE

EMB

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

VIALE

E IV NOV

United States Pavilion

VIAL

PALUDO CALLE

Rio d el Giardini

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

Le Zitelle

VI O

Lido S. Nicolo' M

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

R E

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

STRETTA

CALLE DEL FORNO

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA

CALLE

FORNO

BO DONZELLA C.

DEL

CALLE

BALBI

C. DE LA MADONETA

CALLE

SANT’ANTONIO

LOVO DEL CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI

CALLE DE LE RASSE

CALLE DEL

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

FOORNO

Ca’

DEL

Rio

VELE DE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

SALIZADA

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

CALLE

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

NUOVE

FOSCARI CALLE

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

RIO CROCE

ROTONDA

SAN

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

ETTI,

VECCHIA

CALLE

TI, RÀ

FA R S

CALLE

CORTE

RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

TREVISAN

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

SAN FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

SALIZADA

PICCOLO

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

CALLE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

TERRÀ

VENIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DEI

SANT'ELENA

Rio

SANT'ELENA

Parco delle Rimembranze

Santa Croce

FONDAMENTA

U I P

GRANDE

TERÀ

PALUDO

CROCE

VIALE PIAVE

CALLE

RIO

PONTE

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

CALLE

CORTE

Giardini

S. Giorgio

FIANCO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

SAN GIACOMO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

ACCADEMIA

IST

Lungo

R L C

IB PE GAR

ION

FONDAMENTA

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

OSPIZIO

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CALLE

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

I S ET

FONDAMENTA

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

C. LOREDANA

Ponte

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

CALLE

DELLA

ERBE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

CALLE

RAMO DE

CALLE

CALLE ALBERO

JUNGHANS

AMEN

TANA

Punta della Dogana

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

FOND

DE LA

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CAMPO

CALLE

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

M E N TA

VIDA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

PICCOLO

DEI

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

SAN

FEM

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

'EU

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

SCUOLA

PISCINA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

CALLE

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

MARTIN SAN

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

BASTION

SCUDI

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

CELESTIA

DONA

L’ANZOLO

DEL

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DE

DEGLI

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

DEI FORNI

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

ANTONIN

S C H I AV

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

100 m

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

DEGLI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CALLE

VERONA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

MINELLI

DEGLI

SCHIAVONI RIVA

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

DIREZIONE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

Marittim

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

DEL

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

PISCINA

VERONA

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

A N M

SALIZADA

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

LARGA

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LATERANO

SAN

FABBRI

MAGAZZINI

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Palazzo Ducale

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL

SAN

CALLE

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

SAN

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

Stazione

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

BEMBO

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

zera

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

REMER

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CORNER

DIETRO

DEI

CALLE

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

COCCO

TOSCANA

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

Museo Correr

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

MADONA

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

FONDAMENTA

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

NOVE

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

Salute

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

BOTERI

VARISCO

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CORTE

RUBBI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Ca' Giustinian

Palazzo Genovese

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

DEI

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CASTELLO

CALLE

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

ORESI

CALLE

DOLERA

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

RUGA

GALIZZI

STURION

DEL

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

SALIZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

SAN LIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA PIO

CALLE

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

Casa di Marco Polo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

Ponte di Rialto Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

PESCARIA

San Silvestro

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CATERINA

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

FABBRICHE

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON DEL

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

DEL

San Felice

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

CARROZZE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

Abazia della Misericordia D

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

TRON

SAN

MORETTI

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

CALLE

TABACCHI

Bacino

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

ALE

SAN

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

NIE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

DEI

M .DA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

CALLE DE LA LACA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

FO de Servi N

TER

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

100 m

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

BARI

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

STRADA

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

Rio

LER

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

ER LE P

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

NOVA

San Girolamo

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

INE

DEL

CALLE

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

PISCINA

SAN

L’ARCO

CALLE

N G IR

SAN

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

LLO

RUGA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

B AT

DOGE

CALLE

FORNER

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

SANT'AGNESE

Parco

BRAGADIN

PISCINA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FONDAMENTA

INCURABILI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

C A

S. Servolo

N TA

ILEI

VI SC

VIC

AN D'

ZAR

VIA

RIA

ISA

VIA

S TA

T TA

HIE

O LL GA

MIC

VIA

DOL

O E NR

ICO

V I A L E PA N T O

VIA

DAN

MOCENIGO

ZIO

E C I PA

O PA RT

ORS

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

VIA

VIA VETTOR PISANI

VIA

AQU

VIA

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

SAN MICHELE

SAN SERVOLO

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

RIV

IER

CIP

A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VIA

SANDRO

O SE LV

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

GALLIPOLI

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

M O M EL

Hotel Excelsior Venice

R AT

PIZZAMANO

VIA

O LL

PIE

VIA

S. Antonio Di Padova

I VI

MA O LM IE NG

CRISTOFORO

VIA

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

COLOMBO

VIA

SAN

SAN PIGAFETTA

PIGAFETTA

LIDO

I S E

O LL GA

A VI

O VA

I E

VIA

VIA FRANCESCO

PEZZANA

I R E

Z AT

VIA M

GIOVANNI ON

PIVIDOR

A VI CO OC AM AL M

CC O AM AL M A VI

A RIN CA TE

CA LLE

AR INI

NTA

CATE NE

PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

O NI

RO UE SQ L DE

n ti

DI CA

ic a

IM EN

DE TA

i M e

R io

ELLO CAST

GIUSTINA SANTA

TI I OR GL DE LL E

PIETA’

E CA ST

EL LO

ve VID A

A STR ETA

TAN A LA TANA

E N N LO O C LE AL C

San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

AL E

Russia Pavilion

G IA

SAN T'EL

TTO

Sant'Elena

ENA

see pages 4-5

S. Servolo

INO

ERA

GEN

ENA

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

T'EL ENTA SAN

Top in Town

CAL

FON DAM

E VIAL E PIAV

CAR

C. D EL

PIZ

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

Japan Pavilion

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI  CANAL GRANDE  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO  TEATRO LA FENICE  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO  PALAZZO DUCALE  THE GHETTO  PONTE DI RIALTO  THE ISLANDS 

LL E

S MA

Teatro Verde

MAGGIORE

SAN GIORGIO

U I P

United States Pavilion

VIALE

M CA

CC A

M CA

LA E PO

TT E

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

L EL

ION

BB O

O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

Giardini

ISOLA DI

SA IST

E US

S. Giorgio

R L C

EL CA LL

ERA

O E ANC

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

C A L L E C ATA PA N

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALL

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

IB PE GAR

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

CALLE

Punta della Dogana

I S E

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

PO E COP

IAVO E SCH

CALL

SALUT E

N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI F O N D A M E N TA

I GELO CALLE DELL’AN

BALD

AM ON

OS E CR

GARI

A C. LOREDAN

San Francesco di Paola

RERA

VA E NUO

DELFINA CALLE

GRIMANI CALLE

oise

EPPE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA CALLE FRIZIER

CALL

ESSO

PRET E DEI

LAR

E COLT

CALL

VAL

RTIRI

IUS VIA G

SAL

V TA

FONDAME

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CAL

RAMO DE

FONI

DE LA

CALL

CALLE

FO ND

CAM PO

MARA

CALL E

EN TA

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

NALE

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

TA A R SE

A RO SA

AMEN

E LA RG

EMB

FOND

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL

SAL IZAD

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

I MA

100 m

ENA

DEI FORNI

Arsenale

ARS

E IV NOV

DE I FO RN I

E N TA

P IE

CA LL E

CA LLE

DAM

ION

FONDAMENTA

ini

mo DEI

ARSENALOTTI

M OR OSI NA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

FON

FONDAMENTA

Rio de San Gerola

DE L CA GN OL ET O

CAL LE

Verg

ONI

CAL LE

S C H I AV

CA LL E

R I VA D EGLI

PES CAR IA

CALLE DEL DOSE

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

I ITT GR

E LL CA

CR OSE RA

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

NDAM ENTA

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

L’A

CA LL E

E DE LL CA

RS EN

NATER PIG

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

VIAL

am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Can

N SA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Rio d el Giardini

Nuo

L’AN ZO LO

enta

ale

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

IER

CASTELLO

DO NA

M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

GRECI

CALLE DEI

delle

E CAPP

FONDAMENTA

CALL

CAL PEL LO O CAP

FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO

UCC INE

LE MUR

CALLE CAVALL I

CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE

AN A

IERA

DE LL A CO RO NA

LEONAR DO

C. COR ONA

CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

SA NT ’A NT ONI O

CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I

RAM

DE LL E CA O

ALL

C. DE LA MADONETA

L DO

DEL

DIS

UT AR

L VO

NA VE

E DE

STA GNERI

C. DEI

BA LO TE LE

BR ESS

SALIZADA

I SE M BA

BO E

AP II

A RI CE M ER

LO VO

CA LL E DE

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CALL

CENS

VO HIA

HIA RUGA VECC

A AS

DIC

OTT LE RID

LE TRE

CAL

I SC

LE ST

O C. VOLT

LARG

MO GL A DE RIV

A N M

DE ADA SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

LLE

an Moisè

SA LO

DEGLI

LE CAL

N TI AR M

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

Museo Correr

R I VA

N IO ST BA

Palazzo Ducale

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

OLO

7 2

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

ANT ONIN

LL A

L DE

AL CAV

SALIZAD A SAN

E LL CA

DEL

l Palaz

SAN

ZZA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

RI BB FA

PIA

ENTA FONDAM

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

DEI

Rio De

LE CAL

Basilica di San Marco

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

C. PIA NTON

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

IN MAR DE L’OS

LL E

CAL LE

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE BOSELLO

IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

O DIV RE O

ONI CA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

LE CAL

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

I PRET

E NUO

SE ST

O DE L’OGI CALLE

E GAT

RI BB I FA DE

GA SAN

CAL

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A

ASI DR

E LL

LE LAR

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

DE LE

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE DEL FIGHER CO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

LLE CA

CA AN E BI LL CA

LO EL PP CA

RO VE N SE SA

CAL

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

IO ED M L RE DE

DEL FORNO

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

LE CAL

CORTE

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

FA GIUF

IA ER EL SS CA

AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

CORTE NUOVA

San Giuliano

INA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

FRUTARIOLI

NCE

IZADA SAL

LE DE CAL

San Lorenzo

FRA

CALLE ERIZZO

A SC TA

ZON

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

Rio San Lorenzo

LE SAN

CORTE NOVA

GA RU

O AT USS M

CALLE

FON

CAL

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

TA EN AM ND FO

L IO

LE CAL

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

LICINI

E DEL CAFE

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

DE LE BAN

CALL

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

CORTE

RUBBI

LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GIA AR PI ZA ER C. LE RI A DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

E’

DE LE TOLE

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

CORTE TREVISAN

I OR

SAL VAD OR

PRIMO RINA AMOCONTA TE

BARB ARIA

CORTE

Santa Maria del Pianto

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

LL E

CALICE

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

L IZ

DE LE ERBE

LIO

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

SA N

FOR

REM

AD A

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione C. LARG A

DE LA FAVA

D. PA LLE

CAMPO

C. DEL

CA LL E DE MAR ZA M EZ RIA O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE

R io

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SA LIZ C. DE L GA LIAZZO

PIO

DE L GO

ZZO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

IOL

LLE

ARTIN

CAMPO SAN LIO

GIA

C. DE

G. GA LLI

LE DEL

CALL E

CA LLE

CORTE DEL

AZEN

TEL

DEL CO O

C.M

SAN

LE CAS

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

LE VEN

CAL

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

San Salvador

RD DE

CAL

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

MA RZA RIA

CA LLE

LL CA

CORTE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

CAL

O RN FO L DE

SABION

ST UO

LAR

VENEZIA

D IS

S.G. GRISOS TOMO

RIO

DR IO CA LLE LE SC

CA LLE

TE ST A

E DE

CA LL

CA LLE GA BR IEL

CA VE RRLLE DE L OC CH IO

CORTE NOVA

C ALL E

CAN ZIAN

LE COC

PIO

TEG

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAZ ZINI

AN SALVADOR

DEL

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

CAL

SA LIZZ AD A

FON

CAL LE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

S.Canciano

C. DEL

I B O

Casa di Marco Polo

9deiFontego Tedeschi

omo to

METO

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

A SAN

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Where Venice Magazine

ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5

Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map

4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3

BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2

Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) THERMAL HOTELS 5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Abano Grand Hotel (L) – Via Valerio Flacco, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd) Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro d’Abano, 1 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Due Torri Abano – Via Pietro d’Abano, 18 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Miramonti – Piazza Roma, 19 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) 4 STAR DELUXE (L) & 4 STAR Garden Terme (S) – Corso delle Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano Terme (Pd) Venice Hotel Terme Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd) ALL CAN YOU IN TH DO E CIT

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