Sputnik Postinternet Guide: Moscow, Issue 1, 2015 by Moskvich publishing house

MO SCOW Issue 1

2015

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Postinternet Guide

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New Russian cuisine buzz, not a bad trip from the Kremlin, craft beer hopping & all the 500 guests of the darkest party MOSKVICH

❤ MOSCOW

CO NT ENT S

H I, H OW TO US E & BL AH BL AH BL AH

LIVE CAM WIT H MR. T S ENT SI P E R

AROUND TOWN 8

[ T SAO ]

PAR K S ARE T H E N E W BL ACK

RO UT E FROM KRE M LI N TO FO RE ST

FOOD & DRINK 26

RUSSIANS EAT SHCH I; N OW WIT H BANANA

O L EG, H O P, MALT & BARM H E RE COME

STUFF 42

TAK E F IVE SUCCE SSFU L FASH I O N D E SI G N E R S

FROM RUSSIA WIT H T H IS O R T HAT

NIGHTLIFE 50

LI Z ZY MAK E S ME D RU N K SMARTLY

VVE ARE GØ1И G 7 Ø D1 G U P 7Н E ( Ø R P$ E

Ø F 7 H E ( LU B L1 FE

СOUNTRYSIDE 66

H OW TO G ET TO VE RET EVO BY E L E KT RI CH K A

EVENT S

I N D EX

H I, H OW TO US E & BL AH BL AH BL AH Moscow is an exciting city to discover. It’s anamnesis is extremely dyDo you have a charger for iPhone 5? [ E ST’ Z ARYAD K A DLYA PYA TO GO? ]

namic and unpredictable— you never know what statement to expect tomorrow. Today an art cluster opens on a ship, tomorrow all floating vessels are proclaimed illegal. Today sophisticated cocktails are in vogue, tomorrow craft beer runs the show. Today it’s decided to erect a giant statue at the observation platform and even the process is due to kick off tomorrow. Yet no one can guarantee that a different spot won’t be chosen for the statue the day after. Catching, tasting, discerning, foreseeing, documenting and artic-

You can find the hottest words and

ulating how global trends assimilate in Moscow, as well as bearing wit-

expressions in the green

ness to the birth of authentic local movements — all of this and more

box

interests Sputnik. Sputnik, born in the internet age, makes the most of internet’s resources instead of ignoring it. We analyze trends so that you can freely navigate around Moscow (not just geographically). We don’t just talk about the standard fare, but about what’s relevant now — through articles, itineraries and interviews. Sputnik is the quintessence of everything that’s great about Moscow at a particular moment in time, and more so, employs a visual aesthetic that the moment calls for. To underscore this credo, we decided to put out a print edition — wholesome and complete. But tomorrow... Your #sputnikguide

LIVE CAM WIT H MR. T S ENT SI P E R #F UTUR E

#UR BA NI SM

Ilya Oskolkov-Tsentsiper is an expert in media and urbanism and an entrepreneur who has been creating the best things in the city over the last years: from the biggest city media to the main city park. Sputnik talked to Ilya about his area of expertise â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Moscow and its future.

You have worked with

tury and earlier times in Moscow one has to be a Mus-

urban projects for many years, you

covite. However, some bits of that world can be expe-

know Moscow better than most, and

rienced by visitors around Zamoskvorechye, Bron-

what’s more— you directly affect the

naya and Nikitskaya streets. Naturally, the Kremlin is

way the city looks. What’s Moscow

located in the centre of Moscow with its most famous

like now?

parts built even earlier. Then we have Moscow devel-

oped by Stalin. A totalitarian triumphant parade,

Moscow is enormous. There

are only three megacities of this size

marked by seven towers that were built after the war,

in Europe — Istanbul, Moscow and

partly in spite of American skyscrapers, partly as

London. London is practically the

a new megalomaniacal version of the Kremlin towers.

capital of the Western European

My two favourite ones are the residential building at

world, Istanbul is the capital of Tur-

Kotelnicheskaya embankment and the building of the

kic speaking world while Moscow

Moscow State University, also a campus with the best

is the capital for those who speak

bird-eye view of the city.

Russian and other similar and not so similar languages. Moscow is an old city,

Russian terrain is generally flat and this hill in Moscow is notable. While it is commonly known that Moscow is a city on seven hills there’s hardly any

though you don’t always feel it when

Muscovite who can name them all. True, there are

you are here. Its personality is de-

Sparrow Hills that offer a view over Moscow, not nec-

fined by the fact that it’s the centre

essarily pretty but very impressive.

of Russian civilization, of Russian

Then there’s Moscow of the 60s, 70s and 80s.

culture and Russian government.

This style of architecture has become trendy again

Each new ruler altered Moscow one

and I began to interpret it differently as well. Let’s take

way or another (and there were a lot

Itar-Tass Headquarters at Nikitskaya street and Tver-

of them in Russia, and all of them

skoy boulevard. I find it the merriest building in

unlikeable). One interesting way to

Moscow — it reminds me of architecture in Japanese

look at the city is to see in it the his-

animation. For some reason, it was the home of the

tory of experiments with various

principal propaganda media of the late Soviet era.

Russian ideas. In order to feel the 19th cen-

We have another layer on top of the previous one. In Moscow it is usually linked to the name of the

city’s ex-mayor Yury Luzhkov (in ofHello [ P RIVET ]

fice from 1992 to 2010). This layer is generally horrid and ugly. At times

Cheers! [ VASH E Z D O ROV’ E! ]

quite ambitious which required demolition of many old buildings, but definitely expressive. It is now

Thank you [ SPASI BO ]

part of Moscow history, like the others. Finally, there’s Moscow that has been shaping over the last 5–6 years. Revolution of public spaces has been the most significant change. I’m talking about parks and embankments that became flooded with people who suddenly took a liking to walking. City management began to reorganize this need

Soviet government, usually makes a great impression on the visitors. A:

What is going to happen to Moscow?

Moscow is a city with lovely parks

No one knows. This is a Russian charm as

and a giant river that offers pleasant

well as one of Russian problems. The cause and effect

walks. When Russians do something,

relationship here does not work, which means that

they do it with outstanding zeal and

pretty much anything can happen.

and all of a sudden it turned out that

passion which means that parks and recreation have become the ultimate

Moscow entertainment. Now it’s

Moscow and abroad. Why don’t you move for good,

time to go to Gorky Park, to Krym-

why do you always come back?

Still, you divide your time between living in

skaya embankment, to other parks.

VDNKh is being renovated now. This

don. Now I live both in Moscow and New York. I’m

enormous grand park of Stalin’s era,

interested in this city. My friends, relatives and busi-

built as a display of communism and

ness are here. You can feel lousy in Moscow, but when

I’ve lived in different places — in Paris, in Lon-

things are great, you feel truly wonderful. If you

Dolce & Gabbana. But it’s not that peo-

come to Moscow in late spring or early summer you

ple have begun to save on food. The

will see that it’s a city filled with as many beautiful

mood has changed. The capital of the

people as no place else. They are all outside, sitting

country suddenly turned into a near-

in cafes — it is a very nice scene. It must be due to

front area where the political regime

long winters, but in the short period of good

proved to be less pleasant than it

weather everyone is outside. There’s energy to it —

seemed even a few years ago. How-

the one accumulated over the winter. All this energy

ever, I don’t think it should turn for-

comes out during this time and inspires the envi-

eigners against a visit to Moscow. In

ronment.

fact, it is now a cheap place for guests

I also spend a lot of time in Moscow be-

from abroad and it is definitely worth

cause you can make amazing projects here at

a visit — it’s a very interesting

a speed hardly ever achieved in the West. Here’s the

place.

problem: when in the States I speak of the projects I’ve taken on during my life people merely refuse to believe me— there are way too many and it’s hard to perceive how one can manage to do so much. It’s not about me — there are plenty of people in Moscow who’ve achieved a lot. Even though it can be hard to fight your way through the Russian state system, when it starts working, there’s always a hurry and everything needs to be done at once. This way, it’s either nothing that is happening or things happening very fast. A:

Moscow in the times of crisis— what’s

it like? B:

I haven’t sensed the crisis yet. Obviously,

everyone is a little poorer now, we will go abroad less often and buy more clothes at Zara and less at

AROUND TOWN

[ TSAO ] #B EST

#C H EC K I N

#SP OT

I’d like a tarragon flavored soft drink [ YA KH O CH U P IT’ TAR KH U N ]

TSAO stands for Central Administrative District. With Moscow's radial ring system it is located literally in the centre of the city. We chose landmarks and key locations as well as exciting and foreign-friendly places which offer you the best way of getting to know the city.

Can I have it to go? [ MN E S SO BOY ] I'm not running without Sasha [ YA N E P O BEG U BE Z SASH I ] Where's my change? [ A SDACHA? ]

MAR K ET

Dorogomilovsky

The oldest market in Moscow, with the pavilion built in 1981, it is now in perfect order— when it comes to both the building and the product availability. Part of the selling spots are given to local farmers. The market is uncomfortably close to a train station but restaurant chefs from every corner of the city come here for their produce, and tourists can enjoy a wide selection of pickled goods, meat and fish. tkdor.ru (RU)

+ DAN I LOVSKY A somewhat polished old market that resembles a gourmet supermarket. danrinok.ru (RU)

9 SP O RT

AROUND TOWN

Running club in Gorky Park

Moscow’s first running club and Nike+ regional office in one. The club and running in general owe their vogue to the inspirational public talks of Sasha Boyarskaya, Nike ambassador in Russia and creative director of the Moscow Marathon. Running classes take place on the embankments. park-gorkogo.com/eng/sport/gorkyparkrunners

+ CHAYK A SWI M MI NG POOL 25 and 50 meter long lanes out in the open air in the centre of Moscow. chayka-sport.ru (RU) O CTO BE R BOXI NG CLU B Boxing lessons in a picturesque department of a former chocolate factory. bcoctober.com

CI N E MA

Pioner

Offers dubbing free movies, art-house hits, a smart mainstream collection, selected blockbusters and TV shows (as never before seen in Russia) at the two halls of a former Soviet movie theatre that underwent a full renovation in 2009. Throughout its six year history the theatre has become one of the major venues of the Moscow Film Festival and hasn’t sold a single serving of popcorn. Instead, coffee and dishes from Cafe Pion’s classic French menu are available. pioner-cinema.ru

+ 35 M M The oldest art-house venue in Moscow — it’s not cozy but it works. kino35mm.ru F IVE STAR S O N N OVO KUZN ET SK AYA Dubbing free movies at a mall. 5zvezd.ru/cinemas/novokuznetskaya/ (RU)

AROUND TOWN RE STAU RANT

Delicatessen

In 2010 Ivan Shishkin, journalist, chemist and researcher, began to gather young, talented and audacious amateurs in a Moscow basement. Under his scrutinous supervision they set up a kitchen and a bar. Since then Delicatessen has become one of the major players at the Omnivore food festival in Moscow, made the London bar rating World’s 50 Best Bars and published The Big Book of Giblets devoted to improving the image of by-products. Every Sunday

+ BO L SH O I Novikov’s landmark restaurant: furniture by Ralph Lauren and foie gras with pinecones. en.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/bolshoi

CO F FE E

Double B

CH ITO - RA For over ten years this ascetic Georgian tavern has been visited by people from all walks of life for its khinkali. chito-ra.ru/site/kurskaya (RU)

there’s a pop-up cafe with an experimental menu and each week Lizzy the bartender mixes up her new limited signature cocktails. newdeli.ru (RU)

The best coffee selection in town— come for espressos as well as alternative brewing. The Moscow’s coffee chain has been growing but its cafes don’t lose their low-key charm. There are locations in different parts of TSAO with the flagman cafe at Milyutinsky side-street. The owners of Double B are coffee geeks who hold educational lectures for coffee plantation farmers and control the process at every stage up to the roasting. The drinks menu is organized upon a simple idea: they are either small, big or signature. Everything you need to make coffee at home can be purchased here as well. facebook.com/doublebcoffeetea (RU)

11 BAT HS

AROUND TOWN

Sandunovskie

These pricy picturesque baths resemble a palace rather than public banyas. They haven’t changed much since 1896. Throughout the history they kept the title of the main baths of the city— first visited by Pushkin and Tolstoy, then by the Soviet party members and eventually by the New Russians, the rich businessmen of the 90s. In 1925 Eisenstein filmed the Black sea scene in the banya’s swimming pool with a glass roof. In 2011 a podium was constructed above water for the Boss men’s fashion show. These days one can eas-

VAR SHAVS KI E Historical baths with fresh minimalist design. varshavskie-bani.ru (RU)

ily meet a legendary bath attendant there but nary a tourist. sanduny.ru (RU)

+ STAN ISL AVSKY E L ECT ROT H EAT RE A renovated avant-garde theatre with the interiors by the Wowhouse design studio. electrotheatre.ru (RU)

T H EAT RE

BE R S EN EVS KI E First new baths constructed over the last 50 years on the site of a former vodka storage warehouse. bbani.ru (RU)

Gogol Center

Theatre avant-garde of Moscow relocated to the former building of the conservative Gogol Theatre in 2012 when Kirill Serebrennikov was appointed its new director. The venue was fully renovated. There are exclusive first showings of movies and performances that are otherwise unavailable in Russia— the kind that sometimes worry the city management with their free thinking. en.gogolcenter.com

12 MUSI C

AROUND TOWN

Yotaspace

Neither a concert hall nor a small venue, this giant club was set to open in 2014 with a concert of Israeli trancers Infected Mushroom but the show was cancelled by the Russian drug enforcement police. The concert eventually took place and since then many big (and not so big) international artists have performed here— OK Go, Morcheeba, Lamb, Metronomy, Jay-Jay Johanson, as well as major local bands. yotaspace.ru (RU)

MET RO

Mayakovskaya

The most elegant project of Alexey Dushkin, the architect who created underground urban planning— a new architectural movement in the USSR. An example of Stalin’s classicism, the Soviet version of art deco, the station is decorated with the mosaics from the Days of the Soviet Sky collection based on the sketches of Deyneka. Received the grand prix at the World Exhibition in New York and was almost immediately converted into a bomb shelter during WWII. Stalin’s speech was transmitted from the station in 1941, and half a century later a Givenchy runway show was held here. Line 2

ARBAT SK AYA At 220m, the longest platform in Moscow. Line 3 N OVO KUZ N E T SK AYA Built during WWII and decorated with mosaics from besieged Leningrad. Line 2 P LOSHCHAD REVO LYUTSI I 76 bronze statues at another station created by Dushkin. Line 3

13 MUS EUM

AROUND TOWN

Garage

Darya Zhukova’s contemporary art museum opened seven years ago with an exhibition of Kabakov in a former bus park building designed by Melnikov and Shukhov. Since then a bookstore and a restaurant were added to the place. Among others, Marina Abramovich’s controversial performances were hosted here. The museum was then moved to a temporary pavilion at Gorky Park that is based on an eco-friendly project of the Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. It has just relocated to a different location in the same park. An abandoned

restaurant from the 60s was renovated for this purpose under the supervision of Rem Koolhaas. Soviet era materials are being preserved. garageccc.com

MUS EUM O F SOVI ET ARCAD E MACH I N E S Around 50 arcade machines in working order that you can play. 15kop.ru T H E P USH KI N STAT E MUS EUM O F F I N E ART S The principal museum of classic art. Temporary exhibitions are always a must-see. arts-museum.ru

ART CLUST E R

Artplay

Moscow’s creative cluster with the best developed concept, Artplay is also called a сentre for design. Buildings of former tool making plant host private schools of design and architecture with the British Higher School of Design being the most significant of all. In the summer there are music shows on the roof

+ FL ACO N Creative cluster on the outskirts with a lot of shops selling clothes and knickknacks. flacon.ru (RU)

of the school which offers a wonderful view over the river Yauza and all seven Stalin’s high-risers. Artplay has furniture shops, galleries, clubs, a burger joint in a bookstore and a vegetarian cafe Fruites & Veggis in the basement of a former bomb-shelter. artplay.ru (RU)

AROUND TOWN

PA R KS ARE T H E NEW B L AC K #DAYO F F

#PA R K

#P I CNI C

A few years ago city administration took on major reconstruction of public spaces. Since then parks have become an important phenomenon in the city life. We chose 5Â most impressive ones and report on the reasons to visit them right away.

AROUND TOWN

Gorky Park This central park is the most popular in Moscow. It is always packed on the weekends because everything that is needed for a fun day out can be found here: from ping-pong to a lake with swans, from a running club to open-air movie theatre, from a skate park to a petanque-cafe. The park’s latest news include Garage Modern Art Museum’s move to the just completed building designed by Rem Kolhaas and an observation deck at the newly renovated gates of the main entrance. park-gorkogo.com

Bauman Garden Despite being packed with dogs and children, this smallish garden in the centre of the city is rather peaceful. Performances on a shell-shaped stage built in the 1920s (which underwent major renovations under the pretext of small repairs) and the fuss at the Wowhaus designed children’s playground don’t spoil the walk but rather add flavor to it. It feels like you suddenly traveled from the centre of Moscow to friendly American backyard in the suburbs. facebook.com/sadbaumana (RU)

AROUND TOWN

Look, there’s moose! [ SMOT RI, TAM LOS’! ] It’s time to eat [ P O RA BY P O E ST’ ] How long still to go? [ SKO L’ KO E SHCHYO I DTI? ] I lost my way — I will die [ YA Z ABLU DI L SYA — MN E KO N ET S ]

Krasnaya Presnya A park in a business district with a pretty view over the Moscow City skyscrapers. A great time-out location for those who found themselves in this part of town. You can get coffee made with an alternative brew and walk around the Dutch ponds here, and if you’re lucky even catch an old movie at an open-air cinema for free. p-kp.ru (RU)

AROUND TOWN

Sokolniki Almost twice as large as New York’s Central Park, this land awaits major renovations upon the joint project of British Groundlab and Wowhaus design studio. Recreational activities are already in abundance: there’s a beach, a boat station and weird bikes for rent. Park management plans to develop a kind of a city safari in the northern part of the wild for now, it’s currently enjoyable only for moose. facebook.com/sokolniki.park

AROUND TOWN

VDNKh Renovation works at the open-air museum of Stalin’s architecture are yet to be completed. For now, VDNKh remains a sort of Frankenstein among Moscow parks. Modern street-food venue next to squeaky roller-coasters, lavish exhibition halls of the former Exhibition of Achievements of the People’s Economy of the USSR are rented out by sketchy enterprises. Exhibition hall 26 is an exception — the Moscow Polytechnic Museum resides here for the renovation period. The best way out of the park is through the adjacent Botanical gardens. vdnh.ru

AROUND TOWN

RO UTE F ROM K R EML I N TO FO R EST #MUST WA L K

Sputnik laid out a balanced route around the city: a mash up of must-see places of interest and the most trendy spots — all located at the embankments. There are a lot of stops on the way, so you can plan it as a full day trip or do it step by step, taking up a random leg.

The Kremlin Putin works here. kreml.ru

Photos by G O O GL E

AROUND TOWN

A lot of power in Moscow! [ V MOSKVE STO L’ KO EN E RG I I! ] How to get to the subway? [ K AK D OY TI D O MET RO? ]

Strelka Institute An incubator for urban specialists. Non-profit institute for media, architecture and design, whose program is curated by Rem Koolhaas among others. Also boasts a publishing house, lectures at the courtyard and a bar with the best terrace in town. strelka.com

The House on the Embankment Built for the Soviet elite, who eventually found themselves trapped in it during the Stalinist repressions. museum-dom.ru (RU)

Christ Krasny the SavOktyabr The main chocolate factory of the country in the past. iour Quite recently — a pivotal creative cluster. Currently — Cathedral expensive restaurants, shops and clubs in red brick Pussy Riot had their performance here. Initially a cathedral, then a swimming pool and now a cathedral again (a copy of the original). xxc.ru

buildings. redok.ru (RU)

AROUND TOWN

Muzeon Park A depository for dismantled sculptures of the Communist era. With the addition of contemporary works, turned into a park with more than a thousand objects. The place boasts an embankment based art cluster ship that recently resumed its work after a conflict with the authorities. muzeon.ru (RU)

The State Tretyakov Gallery A branch of the Tretyakov gallery and the largest collection of Russian art from the 20th century, including avant-garde from the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Black Squareâ&#x20AC;? to works of the Sinie nosy art group. tretyakovgallery.ru

Photos by G O O GL E

AROUND TOWN

Gorky Park The first of the recently renovated Moscow parks — the coolest with no peers when it comes to the range of activities offered, from an open air cinema to a running club. park-gorkogo.com

Garage The premier modern art museum in Moscow, with a cafe and a bookstore to boot. Owned by Dariya Zhukova and Roman Abramovich. To be relocated from a temporary building at the Gorky Park to a new one nearby, designed in collaboration with Remi Koolhaas’ OMA. garageccc.com

Neskuchny Sad Park The green part of the Gorky Park. Offers a view of the embankment, developed with Stalin’s Empire style architecture. A modern ping-pong club and a coworking place make the park worth a visit. park-gorkogo.com

AROUND TOWN

Russian Academy of Sciences Popularly known as Golden Brain for its decorative elements on the roof as well as for being the headquarters of Russia’s scientists, with conference halls, offices and apartments. A restaurant on the 22nd floor is worth visiting at the very least for its splendid view. skylounge.ru

It’s a route for a long central walk along the Moscow river

Photos by G O O GL E

Vorobyovy gory Park A continuation of the Gorky Park — a forest on the hills stretching along the embankment. The slopes are equipped with winter sports facilities and a cable way open year round. Vorobyevy Gory metro station is right here, uniquely located inside a bridge over the river. park-gorkogo.com

AROUND TOWN

The main building of MSU The Main building of Moscow State University occupying one of the seven Stalin’s Towers. Earth Science Museum located at the base of the spire on the 31st floor offers a grand view. msu.ru

Observation platform Not the nicest place to hang around, but offers the best views of the city centre and the starting point of this route. S

Borshch with baked

[BORSHCH]

White rabbit

cream and chips of turnip,

beans, fried crucians, sour

26 FOOD & DRINK

FOOD & DRINK

RUSSI A NS EAT SH C H I; NOW WI T H BA NA NA #NEWWAVE

#R ESTAUR A N T

#RUSSI A NCUI SI NE

Russian cuisine is currently looking for a new meaning. We visited those restaurants that are managing this task well and asked their chefs three questions: What is the new Russian cuisine? How is it served at your restaurant? What should one eat to understand it?

Vladimir Mukhin chef at White Rabbit, whiterabbitmoscow.com 1.

For now it is a field for experiments. We are only beginning to get

to know it, learning more about Russian foods and using the basis of Russian cuisine altered by the French before us. We create our own combinations, mix the tastes, make changes here and there. What we get as a result I believe to be the new Russian cuisine. 2.

Restaurant is a feast. Among other things we have gastronomic

theatre where performances take place. You can come for a meal and find intellectual food with new technology or new combinations. 3.

It is a dish based on my grandmotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recipe. Grandpa used to

bring fish from his fishing trips. There were crucians in his catch. Grandma called them melotch (little ones) and cooked them with tomatoes, beets and cabbage â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it became borshch. It was really hard to eat it because of all the bones in it but it was really tasty. I decided to take the bones out of the crucians and served them separately with sour cream as a side dish to the

FOOD & DRINK

borshch. For that purpose we ordered special

ery root cream, glaze carrots with

carved wooden spoons from Nizhny Novgorod. It is

honey and garlic, chop apples with

the only serving that has been kept at our restaurant

chili, mix all the ingredients in a bowl

for the three years we’ve been making this dish. We

and let them sit for a while in

were one of the first ones in Moscow to serve food

a wooden oven.

for the city people on wood rather than tablecloths. It is because we believe that when you come to

Maxim Tarusin

a restaurant in a city you don’t mind some village

chef at Dr. Zhivago, drzhivago.ru (RU)

experience.

Sergey Eroshenko

This is a meal cooked by

a Russian — with greatheartedness and hospitality.

chef and owner of Chestnaya Kukhnya,

chestnayakuhnya.ru (RU)

sine and its dishes that everyone in

Russia knows and expects to have at

First of all, it’s a regional product. Suppliers

We serve Russian-Soviet cui-

come from very different places — from Kaliningrad

a celebration. In a way it’s a cornu-

to Kamchatka — which means you can find pretty

copia that is there at our restaurant at

much everything. It is new because none of us rides

every table. Still, classic dishes are ren-

in a cart with horses, obviously. Life goes on, certain

ovated but without visual excessive-

products remain but the technology is developing.

ness — no nonsense like foams and

When it comes to Russian products, we use innova-

such.

tive servings and technologies such as sous vide,

foaming… We mix Russian products with imported

cabbage rolls stuffed with ground

wines.

meat. In Russia everyone knows what

I envisioned Russia’s first personified chef ’s

Classic golybtsy are white

they look like so it was emotionally

restaurant. And then I opened it with my own

hard for me to alter this dish and I did-

money, being the owner and the chef in one. Seeing

n’t dare include it in the menu. But it

that I’m also an avid hunter, the menu was based on

turned out to be a bomb! In the end

the game I caught. The other menu entries followed

we chose Chinese cabbage and put

the demand and eventually took form of our pres-

сrawfish tails inside. It has a little

ent menu that is 100% based on Russian local prod-

French accent but we couldn’t do any-

ucts.

thing about it — all because of the Bis-

Goose leg is an authentic traditional Russ-

ian meal. However, making it in a Russian stove is somewhat old-fashioned — that’s why we first fry it,

cay sauce. The sauce must be a little French though — it is classic.

then let it simmer at a low temperature in sous vide

Boris Akimov

with a selection of spices (anise, onions, garlic,

co-founder and co-owner at Lavka-

sweet paprika) with natural fat. We then make a cel-

lavka, restoran.lavkalavka.com

[GUSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;] Goose meat simme-

kukhnya

celery puree, Chestnaya

carrots, baked apples and light

red in natural juices with glazed

29 FOOD & DRINK

crayfish tails, Dr. Zhivago

Cabbage rolls with

[GOLUBTSY]

30 FOOD & DRINK

31 1.

FOOD & DRINK self and it is as

It’s extravaganza

that we came up with: it is the way Russian cui-

Where is sour cream for borshch? [ G D E SMETANA DLYA BO RSHCHA? ] Fermented vegetables & mushrooms [ SO L EN’ YA ]

ity. Breed selec-

What seasonal dishes do you have? [ CH TO E ST’ S E ZO N N O GO? ]

farmers is a rare

Chef is good [ SH EF N O RM ]

with scorzonera

oped had there not been a revolution in the 20th ated an alternative reality.

French one when it comes to qual-

sine would have devel-

century. What if? We cre-

good as the

This cuisine would have continued to develop

tion among thing. It is served root — it is a pecu-

and affected the cuisines

liar vegetable long

of the world. In fact, it

forgotten in Rus-

seems like that’s what’s beginning to

sia, while in Europe its ‘Russian Black Giant’ variety is

happen now. Let’s take the gastro-

still remembered. It is now being grown again outside

nomic trend of fermenting, for in-

of Moscow. We deconstruct the quail by serving it on

stance. It’s nothing else but our

a plate in three forms — as a tiny cake of shortcrust

pickled and soured products we’ve

dough with a small cleaned bone sticking out, as

enjoyed for centuries.

a leg, and as a Scottish egg with a quail’s egg inside.

At our restaurant we only

Our scorzonera comes as a puree and fried.

use local products. We remember the one hand, we built a Russian

Ivan and Sergey Berezutskie

stove, on the other hand, we can

chefs & owners at Twins,

make our dish in a shape of a burger

facebook.com/twinsbistrot (RU)

or make a burger in a shape of

Uryupinsk goose. We can make roos-

look. A cuisine can’t develop without an outlook to

ter soup and add Japanese omelette

the future — just as Mercedes car company can’t.

to it. And it has nothing to do with

fusion. It’s what we think modern

ferent restaurants. We both wanted to excel as chefs,

Russian cuisine would look like in

both won world competitions. What was next? We

an alternative reality.

decided to create a project where everything was

our traditions and rethink them. On

There are two things mixed

Russian products, traditions and future out-

We are twins; we have worked as chefs in dif-

based on the synergy between us.

in one dish: the skills of a modern

farmer and the renaissance of a for-

much alike. Their taste is completely different, how-

gotten vegetable. The farmer we

ever. This dish represents both us as brothers and the

work with developed this breed of

restaurant. It is part of a set of 10 servings that is fully

quail that we use for this dish him-

based on this principle. We thought — there are so

A whelk and a white mushroom look very

[PEREPEL]

Tripple quail with scor-

zonera root, Lavkalavka

32 FOOD & DRINK

Far-Eastern whelk

[TRUBACH]

from a tasting set), Twins

with white mushrooms (a dish

33 FOOD & DRINK

FOOD & DRINK

many products that look similar but taste differ-

vian cuisine and came to us from the

ently. We decided to look for unusual pairs instead

northern areas of Russia where Finno-

of serving simple fish with vegetables. Many our

Ugric tribes lived. The basis of my

dishes reflect the twins topic — visual similarity and

recipe comes from the village Uloma

opposite personalities. You know that there are two

that translates from Finnish as “crude

Twix sticks. Well, we’re two Twins sticks— similar

soil”. It was originally made of outer

look, different content. By the way, our plates are

cabbage leaves that were fermented

handcrafted and each plate is unique. It’s a Japanese

with rye flour. I cook it mixing three

technology called Raku ceramics. Its philosophy im-

broths: sour cabbage broth, beef broth

plies seeing big in small. We serve our food on these

and white mushroom broth. This mix

plates so that people have a chance to experience

is my personal twist. And no fat in it at

a little bit more that just some food on their plate.

all! I believe that in this form this soup embodies the taste of Russia.

Elena Chekalova brand chef at Poekhali!, poexa.li (RU) 1.

This cuisine em-

bodies national flavours but, unlike traditional Russian cuisine, it is much lighter. In general, traditional cuisine is richer and heavier as it is made for people of physical labor. 2.

I call my cuisine

Russian fusion. As any

MAR K I L EV The first and currently only locavore restaurant in Russia. Products used for the dishes are exclusively supplied by local farmers, who are supported by the owners of Mark i Lev, staunch promoters of a new Russian cuisine and agriculture development, even outside of the restaurant business. The restaurant is located 100 km outside of Moscow at a cottage community near the Oka river. markilev.ru (RU)

author, I’m interested in adding my own twist. Today there are many new restaurants that serve Russian cuisine as it is trendy. I’m not interested in sampling anonymous food. In fact, I don’t like anonymous cuisine even if it’s good and solid. That’s why all our recipes have their authors despite containing a lot of traditional Russian flavours. 3.

Grey shchi (cabbage soup) is the signature

dish at our restaurant. It is very similar to Scandina-

Poekhali!

Vologda gray shchi,

[SHCHI]

35 FOOD & DRINK

FOOD & DRINK

O L EG, H O P, M A LT & BA R M H E R E COME #BA R H O P P I NG

#B E E R

Craft beer mania has been in town since last year when Moscow began following the trends of new beer flavors. Oleg Edigarov (brewer at 1516) accompanied us to the key craft bars and gave his opinion on Russian DIY-brewing. Feel free to go bar hopping and follow our journey.

1516 1516pub.ru Two storey pub with a brewery. The only one from the list located far away from the centre. Still, craft beer connoisseurs come here for the varieties that are made and served here exclusively as well as for joint brewings with foreign brewers. “We try not to get carried away with extremes and brew composed and balanced varieties. We have a sampling set of 9 beers. Our basic varieties are always available on tap: from good old classic Pilsner lager mixed with American hop to American Pale Ale with now trendy dry hopping that currently sells the best. Every two months we brew seasonal varieties: light in the summer, with coriander and orange zest; rich and warming in winter. When we run out of a certain kind of seasonal beer we don’t repeat it again. We can brew up to 7 varieties at a time at our brewery and more at other breweries under contract. Everyone can have a look at our brewing: I give free tours myself.”

Sampling set, 1516

FOOD & DRINK

Pivbar facebook.com/pivbar1 (RU) A very large selection of beer at a spacious bar. Good for those who want to try something new without going into too many details. A cross between a beerhouse and a trendy burger joint. “There are 30 varieties of beer on tap (20 permanent and 10 varying — editor’s note), Russian craft as well as the classics from Europe. Then there are 250 bottled beers from different countries. There are no sampling sets though which makes it difficult to make a choice. The owners started with ordinary beer restaurants and they haven’t reached the 100% quality of craft beers — you can come across fake craft as well. But the selection of beers here is very big and the vibe is nice — it’s enough for some. Not for beer-geeks though, who are exclusively looking for the best as opposed to simply everything that Russia has to offer. For us it’s like a big beer store with tap which is also interesting, particularly for those guests who aren’t really in the know.”

Chernyshevsky black IPA, Pivbar

FOOD & DRINK

Beermarket facebook.com/beermarketbar (RU) One more venue by the owners of Pivbar with the same services in a smaller space with conventional design. “It is the first craft beer place by the owners of Pivbar. Now it stays open only till 11pm due to its unfortunate location at a residential building— the residents began complaining soon after the opening. The owners decided to open another place free from problems with neighbours but kept Beermarket open. Beer selection there is the same, unlike the food. Here they serve only snacks which is a better fit to the concept of a classic craft bar. You can rarely come across a bar geek here and much more likely to meet those beginners in the beer culture who believe they can sample everything at Beermarket. If you stop by during the day you will see men in suits from nearby offices who come for a glass of beer on their lunch break.”

Triggel tripel, Beermarket

FOOD & DRINK

Let’s drink! [ V YP’ E M! ] Сraft beer [ KRAF TOVO E P IVO ] Half a liter [ N O L’ PYAT’ ] Here goes! [ P O N E SL AS’ P I Z DA PO KO CH’ K AM]

Craft Republic craftrepublic.ru (RU) This basement bar with IKEA furniture visited by beer-geeks offers exclusive craft varieties and a modest snack selection. “This is a place for nerds. The space resembles a kindergarten canteen rather than a pub but it doesn’t matter when the small hall is thronged with people on Friday night or during a delivery of a certain beer variety. As a matter of fact, aside from beer from Italian brewers exclusively imported here there are 22 taps rotated all the time: the infor-

Wild beast

mation about new and expired beer list is updated regularly on social

wild sour ale, Craft re-

networks. Craft Republic also has a big selection of bottled beers, solely

public

craft. The owners are beer geeks and beer travelers themselves which means they know what they get. That’s why certain varieties are not for everyone. For instance, spontaneous fermentation takes time and knowledge to appreciate.”

FOOD & DRINK

+ SOSNA I LI PA A two story and yet tiny bar with coffee (made with alternative brewing methods) and extreme craft beer (double IPA instead of the regular one). Russian beer brands are served on tap while rare foreign ones come in bottles. Vinyl parties take place often — the bar is then packed and becomes a store with drinks to go. facebook.com/sosnaandlipa (RU)

Vse Tvoi Druzya facebook.com/craftbar.msk (RU) A tiny bar one can get into by a broken wall of a gift shop only. One of the oldest craft bars in Moscow. “This place has the spirit of beer revolution. Vse Tvoi Druzya (Russian for “All your friends”) serves selected beers from Russian breweries as well as new imported varieties. You won’t find many Belgian beers here as the selection of unusual and interesting beers is the bar’s specialty. Some ciders are also available and there are more to come in the future. The place is small and is almost always packed. You can hear the smell of hop from the street. On Fridays they set up dance parties — guests dance among the toys in the gift shop. It’s wild!”

Salden’s IPA, Vse tvoi druzya

FOOD & DRINK

Enthusiast facebook.com/enthusiastmoscow (RU) The only Moscow craft bar opened by hipsters for hipsters. There’s a small selection of beers and sandwiches and the place has a cozy feel. In summer outdoor tables and occasional markets are set up. “It’s a place for socializing, open by the owners of a motorcycle repair shop who also love scooters and bicycles. You could always find cider here, and since not long ago there are 8 taps of craft beer with varieties regularly changed. At the moment the most interesting is Hentai IPA from a Saint-Petersburg contract brewery Afbrew. It’s an IPA with Japanese hop Sotachi Ace that adds peculiar notes of lemon zest, dill and marinade to the beer. You should come here for a good vibe at a central location, for DJ sets and other events advertised on the bar’s social networks.”

Hentai IPA, Enthusiast

STUFF

TA K E F I VE SUCC ESSF UL FA SH I ON D ESI GNE R S #FA SH I ON

Russian fashion scene is far from perfect. We are not into Moscow Fashion Weeks. Instead we keep track of those designers who deserve to be known internationally. You should know them too.

Ria Keburia The delicate young woman and Moscow-based Georgian fashion designer started with hand-made toys. Since her first show in 2012 sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been exploring the boundaries between masculine, feminine and childish, utility and theatricality. Her harsh designs mixed with soft colored fabrics, square cut-outs, daring silhouettes and mid-century ethnic chic established Keburiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion signature. riakeburia.com Where to buy: Indexflat

STUFF

You look good [ KL ASSN O V YG LYADISH’ ] Where to buy the Burda Magazine? [ G D E KU P IT’ Z H U RNAL BU RDA? ] Gosha Rubchinskiy [ RU BCH I K ] Why is it so expensive? [ CH TO TAK D O RO GO? ] Should I buy it? [ ETO BRAT’? ]

STUFF

Vika Gazinskaya A major player among the new generation of Russian fashion. She juxtaposes Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new look style and the simplicity and Russian gentleness. Gazinskaya was part of a successful collaboration with the & Other Stories company and has her own line. vikagazinskaya.ru Where to buy: Aizel (online), KM20, TSUM

STUFF

Alexander Terekhov One of the most successful Russian designers with his own boutiques all over the country and 22 more in the world. His style is femininity with aÂ passion for late 80s. The core of his collection are chic gowns, but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a place for fur coats, parkas, jeans and casual wear. alexanderterekhov.com Where to buy: Alexander Terekhov boutiques, TSUM, Tsvetnoy Central Market

STUFF

Walk of Shame A former editor at L’Officiel Russia, a poet of his generation’s style, full of post-Soviet references like sweaters emblazoned with I AM LUXURY, silk pajamas, prints from porn films such as Deep Throat or statement accessories with the Walk of Shame logo in the style of 90s D&G and Versace fakes. Andrey Artyomov relies on his friends to promote his work — fortunately, most of them are Moscow’s biggest street-style stars. walkofshamemoscow.com Where to buy: KM20, TSUM

STUFF

Gosha Rubchinskiy Teen and street inspired design star of Russia’s post-1991 generation. Publicity-shy, he sells to major stores all over the globe (the first one back in 2010 was Dover Street Market). Rubchinksiy now works closely with Comme des Garçons on evolution of his skater style — sport socks, sweatshirts with Cyrillic words, fur coats, clear lines and pure colors. Recently he joined menswear’s top after a stunning runway in Paris with street-cast models. gosharubchinskiy.com Where to buy: KM20, SVMoscow

STUFF

Pin Airplane 6,

Krinka, Dymov ceramic, suz-

Olga Soldatova, shaltai-

dalceramic.ru

boltai.ru (RU) Coin Republic

FROM RUSSIA WIT H T H IS O R T HAT

of Crimea

#S O UVENI R

Organic

Abo indian

food detector, Lapka,

longboard, Ma long-

mylapka.com

boards, longi.ru

STUFF

Titmouse pin, Heart of Moscow, heartofmoscow.ru YotaphoneÂ 2, Yotaphone, yotaphone.com

Inside out sapphire ring, Openjart, openjart.ru

Bardo update 01/01/03 glasses, Fakoshima, fakoshima.com Table-glass

NIGHTLIFE

L I Z ZY MAKES ME #BA R

#CO C KTA I L

Float my boat, Delicatessen (50 ml bourbon, 30 ml honey and herbs syrup, 3 dashes sarsaparilla bitters, soda water, 1Â scoop vanilla icecream)

NIGHTLIFE

D RUNK SMA RT LY A year ago Bacardi brand-manager Enrique Comas named Moscow, alongside London and New York, one of three cities responsible for contributing to the freshest trends in mixology. Though we’ve got serious competition, we do CHAI NAYA. T EA & CO CKTAI L S facebook.com/chainayabar (RU) have our own Moscow-specific personality (which goes beyond our outstanding vodka). D E LI CAT E SS EN Any bar in Moscow, or Russia for that matter, newdeli.ru (RU) cannot truly succeed without memorable food. A full menu is ideal, but a few well-thought out D RI N K YO U R S EO U L facebook.com/drinkyourseoul (RU) snacks can also do the trick. The key is balance, FAREN H E IT of course, and not everyone knows how to rest-f.ru (RU) achieve it. We’ve been all over town and come up with a dozen places worth your time, your MOSKOVSKY BAR fourseasons.com/moscow/dining/lounges/moskovsky_bar money, and your taste buds. NOOR noorbar.com O2 LO U NG E ritzcarltonmoscow.ru/dining/#1 (RU) YU N OST facebook.com/youthcafemoscow (RU) We suggest you start with the legendary spots: first, go to Delicatessen. The classics are the stars at this nearly hidden location, with a signboard at the front door saying “thanks for finding us” in Russian. There is no bar menu, instead ask the bartender or waiter for their recommendation. After evaluating your favorite liquors and flavors, they will recommend a cocktail tailored to your specific tastes. There is also an element of surprise: every week or so, head-bartender Liza Evdokimova creates a special cocktail. Deli has been on the list of World’s Best Bar for two years,

NIGHTLIFE

taking the 50th place in 2013 and 44th in 2014. Fortunately, the cuisine is as memorable as the drinks are, so don’t miss out on the beef tartare, pizzas and burgers. The owners recently opened a new cafe Yunost (Russian for “Youth”) near Tsvetnoy Boulevard metro station, and their drinks are also worth a try. If you’ve had dinner and are looking for a decent bar to sip away a couple of late night hours, head to Noor on Tverskaya street. This famous bar was closed for several months during its renovation and reopened with a banging party in January. This place is a rare classic: beautiful ambi-

How are you? [ K AK SAM? ]

ent lighting, comfortable bar stools, and short but well curated food menu— only seven dishes including one dessert. But what Noor lacks in food selec-

Once again [ P OV TO RIT E ]

tion, it more than makes up for with countless creative beverages, all listed in a veritable Bible of

Long term drinking [ Z AP OY ]

cocktails. There’s no better way to describe this book: the drinks are organized by category complete with each drink’s full history, so you can order the perfect French 75 and enjoy a good read while you savor the flavor. Speaking of high-end bars in the city, we’re thrilled that the growing trend of amazing hotel bars has finally taken root in the capital. They are fabulous, they are expensive (10–15 euros for a cocktail) and they are totally worth it! For Russian twists on classic cocktails head to the Four Seasons on the Red Square and slip into Moskovsky bar, created and hosted by the famous Bek Narzi. Born in the Soviet Union but raised in London, Narzi returned to Moscow to work at Space City Bar, the first in Russia to premier on the list of world’s best bars. Here it’s all about playing with local ingredients: the Moscow Mule is made with Russian kvass, a fermented drink made from rye bread. Other cocktails are infused with willow-herb, or feature original Russian moonshine and even bread. Apple Baked Crusta is an absolute must. The bartenders are also waiters and they are all too happy to chat up their customers and tell stories— after all, isn’t that what bars are for? Right across the street is the famous Ritz. The Moscow location didn’t fully embrace the bar-centric aura of the luxurious chain until the end of 2014, when Vitaly Bgantsov took over as head bartender. Before landing at the Ritz, Bgantsov was working with Narzi at the now defunct Belka. Today he mixes drinks in

Liza Evdokimova, bar manager at Delicatessen

NIGHTLIFE

Konstantin

Artem Zhidkov, bartender

Plesovskikh, bartender

at Drink Your Seoul

at Chainaya. Tea & Cocktails

Marat Saddarov, creator and bar manager at Noor Electro

Nazar Makarov, bartender at Moskovsky

Vladimir

Beck

Zhuravlev, cocktail

Narzi, bar manager

historian and bartender

at Moskovsky

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Alexey Belik, bartender at Farenheit

Slava Lankin, co-owner at Delicatessen

Vitaly Bgantsov, bar manager at O2 Lounge

Denis Kryazhev, bar manager at Farenheit and Drink Your Seoul

Maxim

Katya Bays, bartender

Rockhman,

at Chainaya. Tea

bartender

& Cocktails

at Moskovsky

NIGHTLIFE

O2 Lounge on the 12th floor of the hotel. This is the one and only place in Moscow where you can try authentic Peruvian cuisine and cocktails (thanks to chef Markus who has come to us from the other side of the world). We suggest you take a seat at the bar and enjoy some friendly banter to go with your cocktail. Prefer flying solo? Wander out to the terrace and soak in the breathtaking view. For those of you who don’t fancy the highend atmosphere, there are several more casual newcomers in the city. One of the most interesting is the restaurant Farenheit on Tverskoy boulevard — the unexpected project of Andrey Dellos (you might know this restaurateur by his Michelin-starred Betony in New York and Cafe Pushkin in Paris). The loft-inspired space boasts contemporary cuisine and an incredible drink list by Denis Kryazhev and his team. Kryazhev is known for his unconventional ex-

BAR IS Ex-wine bar made into a cocktail venue with friendly and welcoming atmosphere. If possible, take a seat closer to the bartenders working in front of the long wood table, originally made for wine tastings. facebook.com/barismoscow (RU) T H E BOX Popular party destination in a business district of Belaya square with an interesting list of original cocktails made by Stas Kireev, who previously worked at Chainaya. Tea & Cocktails and Mendeleev bar. facebook.com/theboxmoscow (RU) BAD BOY BAR A decent place to eat and drink on Novy Arbat. The bar is hosted by Irina Golubeva and her team. There is a small list of original cocktails and a possibility to order a classic one too. facebook.com/badboymoscow (RU)

periments with liquor: he infuses gin with fat, herbs and even wax, though he can perfectly execute a more traditional recipe as well. He also hosts Drink Your Seoul, a tiny space (seriously — it’s only around 20 sq meters) tucked under the Crabs are Coming cafe. You can walk in on Friday and Saturday. It’s all about sejou vodka here and Asian influence: a lot of limes, coconut water and almond milk. This is a perfect way to start your evening but as the team is currently working on parties, you’ll proba-

MEN D E L E EV BAR A semi-secret bar hidden under Lucky Noodle cafe with a menu of twists on classic cocktails and original recipes. mendeleevbar.ru TAK E IT EASY, DARLI NG Another secret place situated near Mendeleevskaya metro station. It works from Wednesday till Sunday from 7 p.m., you should make a call half and hour prior to your visit. Here it’s all about strong cocktails and spirits as well as good live music. facebook.com/takeIteasydarling (RU)

bly end up staying longer. And yes, there are speakeasy bars in Moscow. Start at the Chainaya. Tea & Cocktails— once you get there you won’t want to leave. Yes, it requires a bit of extra work, but most great things do. You should call thirty minutes beforehand to find out if there’s enough space. And they keep a careful eye on it — only 35 people can fit in this cozy venue at a time. Signature cocktails by Roman Milostivy, tasty Chinese cuisine and a mysterious atmosphere reminiscent of prohibition days make Chainaya. Tea & Cocktails a truly unique experience.

NIGHTLIFE

VVE A R E G Ø1И G 7 Ø D1 G UP 7Н E ( Ø R P$ E Ø F 7 H E ( LUB L1 F E #C LUB

#MUSI C

#PA RT Y