A MOTIVATE PUBLICATION
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UAE DHS25 OMAN RO2.70 BAHRAIN BD2.60 KUWAIT KD2.10 SAUDI ARABIA SR25
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THE FRAGRANCE ISSUE
The Perfect Notes
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BORN IN LE BRASSUS
RAISED AROUND THE WORLD
AU D E M A R S PI G U E T B O U T I Q U E S D U B A I : T H E D U B A I M A L L · M A L L O F T H E E M I R AT E S
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer MANAGING PARTNER AND GROUP EDITOR Ian Fairservice EDITOR/ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Amy Sessions amy.sessions@motivate.ae SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Olga Petroff DIGITAL EDITOR Olivia Morris JUNIOR DIGITAL STYLE EDITOR Sarah Joseph GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION Sunil Kumar ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER Binu Purandaran PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR Venita Pinto CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER Anthony Milne GROUP DIRECTOR Andrew Wingrove DIGITAL SALES DIRECTOR Sabir Khodabux GROUP SALES MANAGERS Bindu Gupta bindu@motivate.ae Chaitali Khimji chaitali.khimji@motivate.ae SENIOR SALES MANAGER Neha Kannoth neha.kannoth@motivate.ae GROUP MARKETING MANAGER – DIGITAL Anusha Azees WEB DEVELOPER Firoz Kaladi
HEAD OFFICE Media One Tower, Dubai Media City, PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE, Tel: (+971) 4 4273000, Fax: (+971) 4 4282261, E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae DUBAI MEDIA CITY SD 2-94, 2nd Floor, Building 2, Dubai, UAE Tel: (+971) 4 390 3550 Fax: (+971) 4 390 4845 ABU DHABI PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: (+971) 2 6772005, Fax: (+971) 2 6770124, E-mail: motivate-adh@motivate.ae LONDON Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai
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Editor’s Letter
Welcome to The Fragrance Issue. in The Legend on page 58, Ormaie Co-founder In this issue we deliver the perfect notes from wellBaptiste Bouygues in A Family Affair on page 74 and known fragrance brands to the new, emerging and Luis Miguel, Head of BVLGARI’s perfume division undiscovered. For our cover shoot we partnered with discusses what it takes to create a successful new scent French fragrance house Henry Jacques in Magnification on page 76. We share the most stunning candles in Haute Parfumerie on page 18. Crafting from Diptyque to elevate your home in elevated scents with fine-tuned precision, THE Scented Spaces on page 84 and some it was a pleasure to share their vision of PERFECT of the most incredible women we know elegance and refinement. NOTES We also have exclusive interviews with share their first memories of fragrance in Co-founders of Ex Nihilo, Benoît Verdier, Signture Scent on page 88. Finally, in The Olivier Royère and Sylvie Loday in The Wanderlust on page 102 we explore the Dream Team on page 54, renowned perfumer Francis luxurious escapes set alongside aromatic tea and coffee Kurkdjian, Co-founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian plantations for a truly sensory experience.
Amy Sessions EDITOR / ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
T H E H E R O B U YS
Santal Austral Eau de Parfum Dhs918 MATIERE PREMIERE available at bloomingdales.ae
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Oversized Blazer Dhs2,600 THE ANDAMANE available at OUNASS
JIMMY CHOO Beren Leather Boots Dhs4,950 Jimmy Choo
Gigi Wide Pants in Satin Dhs1,350 THE ANDAMANE available at OUNASS
Deep Relax Roller Ball, 10ml Dhs112 Aromatherapy Associates available at NET-A-PORTER
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HAPPY SPORT - Handcrafted in Ethical Gold -
CONTENTS M AY 2 0 2 1
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THE MONITOR
Monitor News p.14 Social Listings p.16 Cover Shoot – Haute Parfumerie with Henry Jacques p.18
Left: Les Brumes, Box of 6 Flacons in Beige, Henry Jacques
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Pure Palette – Max Mara conjures a fragrant mix of caramel tones for SS21 p.44
A Family Affair – Interview with Ormaie Co-founder Baptiste Bouygues p.74
The Premier Perfumer – Interview with Aurelien Guichard, Co-founder of MATIERE PREMIERE p.62
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FASHION
The Edit – Fragrance day to night p.34
Scented Skincare – An edit of the best in fragrant skincare p.70
The Oriental Blend – Dolce & Gabbana’s Velvet Black Patchouli p.36
The Beauty of Byredo – Interview with Ben Gorham, Founder of Byredo p.72
Strategic Expansion – Saint Laurent launches exclusive lifestyle products p.38
Magnification – Interview with Luis Miguel, Head of BVLGARI’s perfume division p.76
Nature’s Transformation – Interview with Mary Katrantzou about BVLGARI’s ‘Serpenti Through the Eyes of’ exclusive capsule collection p.48
BEAUTY
Hot New Buys p.52 The Legend – Interview with Francis Kurkdjian, Co-founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian p.58 The Perfect Blend – Leading fragrance brand in the UAE p.68
The Beauty Shelf – Haneen Odeh, Owner of Snob Salon p.78 AM to PM Beauty – Sylvie Loday, Co-founder of Ex Nihilo p.80
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CONTENTS M AY 2 0 2 1
A Private Collection – Celine’s elevated take on traditional fragrance p.66
The Dream Team – Interview with the Co-founders of Ex Nihilo, Benoît Verdier, Olivier Royère and Sylvie Loday p.54
82 FEATURES
A Rich History – Fragrance powerhouse Diptyque discusses their incredible brand story p.82 Scented Spaces – An edit of Diptyque’s best candles p.84 The Chemistry of Fragrance – Interview with the Founder of Oo La Lab p.86
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98 Signature Scent – Ideal notes for incredible women p.88 The Fragrance Connoisseur – Interview with The Fragrance Kitchen’s Founder Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah p.90 Oud – An Expert Guide p.92 The Fragrance Entrepreneur – Exclusive interview with Her Highness Sheikha Hend Al Qassemi p.96
LIFESTYLE
The Wanderlust – Immerse yourself in an aromatic, sensory experience at these luxurious resorts p.102
Diffuse – Give your home a signature scent p.98
Tasteful Aroma – An exceptional edit of fragrant menus p.106
A Fragrant Blend – Interview with the Co-founders of AVANTCHA Tea p.100
Fragrant Fusion – An interview with Cé La Vi’s Executive Chef Howard Ko p.108
The Cover
Musk Oil Black perfume extract, Henry Jacques
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IN PARTNERSHIP
A Fresh Escape A N A N TA R A T H E PA L M D U B A I I S T H E P E R F E C T PLACE FOR A REFRESHING ESCAPE Escape to Thailand at this UAE resort without having to venture too far from your Dubai home. Thai-inspired beach haven Anantara The Palm Dubai offers a luxurious getaway for the whole family to soak up the sun and sea breeze away from the hustle and bustle of the city. With 400 metres of pristine private beach and three pools across its Palm Jumeirahlocated resort, guests can relax and soak up the sun in pure peace. For those who wish to be more adventurous, take part in the resort’s wide range of watersports – the perfect activity for parents to enjoy with their kids. Meanwhile, for guests who are looking for a truly relaxing and rejuvenating escape, the Anan-
tara Spa is the perfect place to unwind with an expansive menu of treatments including their Anantara Signature Massage, Turkish Hamman, Glow Magnesium Body Scrub and more. Their 24 treatment rooms – including male, female and mixed facilities – ensure that everyone is catered to. You’ll also embark on a culinary journey throughout your stay with Anantara The Palm’s plethora of restaurants. Indulge in traditional Thai cuisine at Mekong, enjoy a taste of the Australian Outback at Bushman’s Restaurant and Bar, dine beachside with spectacular skyline views of Dubai at The Beach House, enjoy a hearty breakfast at Crescendo and more.
The resort’s latest offer means it’s the ideal time to check in for an escape without having to travel too far from home. Anantara The Palm Dubai has tailor-made packages for their villas which give you direct access to the beach. It also includes their Over Water Villas where you can see the ocean through the floor in your own hotel room. Enjoy 30 per cent off and complimentary daily breakfast with family or friends at the resort while the offer is valid. Rates start at Dhs1,995 per night. For more information visit www.anantara.com and for reservations call +971 4 567 8999 or email the resort at resdubaipalm@anantara.com.
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THE HERO BUYS
Sofi square-frame gold-tone and acetate sunglasses Dhs1,592 Tom Ford
Allen cutout ribbed stretch-modal jersey thong bodysuit Dhs576 Alix NYC
Active Ingredients
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Pleated leather shorts Dhs11,910 Brunello Cucinelli
The sculpt arm compound Dhs421 U Beauty
À La Rose Scented Hair Mist Dhs247 Maison Francis Kurkdjian
+NET SUSTAIN Pina croc-effect leather slingback sandals Dhs683 St. Agni
WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS; IMAGES: SUPPLIED
Infused with potent plant-based ingredients, these products are designed to provide long-lasting benefits with specially formulated technology
Stem Cell Serum Dhs312 Act + Acre
THE MONITOR – NEWS
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Social Listings A curated guide of who to #follow this month
@arcadiabyamna
@instatfk
@ojarofficial
@diptyque
A GCC-based fragrance brand designed with a cool, clean aesthetic.
An innovative perfume house inspired by the philosophy “East meets West” founded by His Highness Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah.
Created as a statement of modernity and harmony through rituals of Middle Eastern perfume making.
Pioneering parfumerie and candles that have become true classics.
@officialbyredo
@maisonfranciskurkdjian
@oola.lab
@exnihiloparis
A pure expression of an artist’s emotions, carefully translated into the most sophisticated scents.
Intriguing scents in exceptionally chic bottles.
Evoking the chemistry of emotion through a highly engaging multisensory experience.
Redefining the fragrance game, one scent at a time.
@ormaieparis
@matierepremiereparfums
@villa515
@avantchatea
Showcasing a journey from raw materials identification, classification and appreciation to fragrance creation.
Redefining the modern tea experience through highquality leaves sourced from the world’s finest plantations.
Combining art and nature to produce compelling fragrances made entirely from natural materials.
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An olfactive journey with a minimalist aesthetic.
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C O M P I L E D BY: S A R A H J O S E P H
THE MONITOR
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IN PARTNERSHIP
A Mom’s One-Stop Shop
MOM STORE UNVEILS ITS FLAGSHIP L O C AT I O N S I N DUBAI BRINGING EVERYTHING YO U N E E D A N D MORE FOR BOTH MOMS AND CHILDREN C LO S E R TO YO U
From the early days of motherhood to entering into childhood years and beyond, Mom Store is there to help moms with a diverse mix of products from covetable brands which will carry moms throughout their journey of motherhood. With over 600 brands available, featuring over 15,000 products online and in-store, moms and kids are covered for all occasions. Whether that be for the everyday, a special celebration, school essentials, toys, travel accessories, bedding and baby grooming products. In particular, it’s the perfect time to explore Mom Store’s brands for Ramadan and Eid with a wide variation of festive styles for the little ones. There are also home and interiors brands available including Greengate and Sara Miller. Their brand portfolio doesn’t stop there, Mom Store has other heritage brands including Carter’s, Fisher Price, Pigeon, Disney and OshKosh to name a few. Highly sought-after brands which are ‘first to the UAE’ are available at Mom Store including famous British stroller brand iCandy, loved by Victoria Beckham. Mom Store also has premium brands such as Little Me, Bebcare emission-free baby monitors and Babyhood innovative baby furniture. Similarly, Global Organic Textile certified brands have been introduced to the Middle Eastern market to ensure the utmost safety and comfort for your little ones when shopping at Mom Store. All of this can be found at Mom Store’s brand new flagship store in City Centre Mirdif and on-
line. A new store will open at the beginning of May in The Dubai Mall and thereafter in Mall of the Emirates. Each venue will include a unique kids attraction, an Instagrammable ‘Mom’s Lounge’, a soft play area for the little ones allowing mothers to shop stress free and an immersive digital section for the older kids to be entertained with while moms shop. For moms who wish to stay at home and do their shopping online this can all be done via momstore.com, with exclusive offers available and 10 per cent off when you first sign up – which is also available in-store. Mom Store is also there to bring moms together. In particular, those who are seeking advice from likeminded mothers, ‘The Mom Talk’ – a community page on the Mom Store website in partnership with Mediclinic – brings life and professional advice to all moms. Expert advice is given, inspiring stories are shared and useful suggestions are given for any queries moms may have. As well as creating a sense of community for moms, Mom Store is also giving back to the community. This is why Mom Store has partnered with Dubai Cares to help with the ‘Support Girls Education’ initiative in Uganda. As an all-encompassing destination for moms and little ones alike, Mom Store is the perfect place to shop – both in-store and online – for everything you need and more. For more information and to shop Mom Store’s brands visit the City Centre Mirdif store or momstore.com.
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French fragrance house Henry Jacques crafts elevated scents with fine-tuned precision Words & Creative Direction: AMY SESSIONS
Photography: ŽIGA MIHELCIC
HAUTE PARFUMERIE
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Previous pages: Musk Oil Black perfume extract, Henry Jacques; Left page: Temporaline pure perfume; Right page: Temporaline pure perfume and Quintelline perfume extract all Henry Jacques
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This page: Onction pure perfume, Henry Jacques; Right page: Temporaline pure perfume, Henry Jacques
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Left page: Les Essences, Box of 3 Flacons in Taupe, Henry Jacques; This page: Temporaline pure perfume, Henry Jacques
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This page: Temporaline pure perfume, Henry Jacques
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Both pages: Osara pure perfume, Henry Jacques
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VIDEOGRAPHER: JOACHIM GUAY; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARAH JOSEPH; HAIR & MAKEUP: ANIA PONIATOWSKA AT MMG ARTISTS; ALL FASHION AT OUNASS.COM
This page: Les Brumes, Box of 6 Flacons in Beige, Henry Jacques; Right page: Musk Oil White pure perfume, Henry Jacques
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F A S H I O N F
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SAINT LAURENT
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Libre, Eau De Parfum Dhs440 Yves Saint Laurent for 50ml
THE EDIT WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
Flat-top acetate sunglasses Dhs1,745 Celine Eyewear available at MATCHES FASHION
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Banks cotton and silk-blend duchesse-satin blazer Dhs10,667 Alex Perry available at NET-A-PORTER
Caden cotton and silk-blend duchesse-satin shorts Dhs3,962 Alex Perry available at NET-A-PORTER
Ella metallic leather slingback sandals Dhs1,143 Ayede
FAS H I O N
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Libre, Eau De Parfum Intense Dhs465 Yves Saint Laurent for 50ml
Fragrance for day to night
Symmetry Pochette leather tote Dhs4,698 Savette
Double-breasted two-tone grain de poudre woolblend blazer Dhs13,055 Alexander McQueen
Herringbone wool tapered pants Dhs4,328 Saint Laurent
FAS H I O N
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Padlock metallic leather sandals Dhs4,165 Tom Ford
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
THE ORIENTAL BLEND
Dolce & Gabbana Beauty tells the story of Italy and its open doors to the Orient through Velvet Black Patchouli, an olfactory celebration of the fusion of East and West
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FAS H I O N
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STRATEGIC
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FAS H I O N
4/29/21 10:26 AM
Conceptualized by Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent launches exclusive lifestyle products
EXPANSION FAS H I O N
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FAS H I O N
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ALL AVAILABLE AT SAINT LAURENT
FAS H I O N
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P H OTO G R A P H Y: P I E R N I C O L A B R U N O
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
Max Mara conjures a fragrant mix of caramel tones for SS21
PURE
FAS H I O N
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PALETTE
FAS H I O N
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FAS H I O N
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ALL AVAILABLE AT MAX MARA
FAS H I O N
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WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
Nature’s Transformation
Mary Katrantzou shares her journey of harnessing the power of transformation to create ‘Serpenti Through the Eyes of’, BVLGARI’s exclusive capsule collection
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FAS H I O N
4/29/21 10:31 AM
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
How did the collaboration with BVLGARI originate and where does the name come from? BVLGARI kindly loaned us their one-of-akind High Jewellery pieces for my first couture show which took place at The Temple of Poseidon, in October 2019 and this was where our relationship started. We both felt a strong synergy and mutual appreciation so it felt natural when they invited me to interpret ‘Serpenti Through My Own Eyes’. As a starting point, I went to Rome and met up with Mireia Lopez Montoya, the Managing Director of Accessories, who showed me around BVLGARI’s historical archives. I had the opportunity to see all the iconic pieces that became the inspiration for our collection. I believe the future of fashion is built on the idea of collaboration. I grew up appreciating the codes of BVLGARI and I’m honoured to contribute to the evolution of the Serpenti icon. The collection focuses on the subject of metamorphosis, tell us more? I have long been fascinated by the process of metamorphosis – from adapting to continue evolving. When I was asked to interpret the iconic ‘Serpenti Through My Own Eyes’, I knew immediately that I wanted to highlight its nature as a symbol of transformation and rebirth. As a snake sheds its skin to allow for further growth, I wanted to visually showcase this transformation within the collection. My intention was to bring to life a message of optimism snd spiritual growth. In the bespoke artwork, I designed for one of the bags, the Serpenti is portrayed as it transforms into a spiral of butterflies. Butterflies are also one of the truest examples of metamorphosis as they experience a four-stage lifecycle. The journey of metamorphosis became the centre point of this collaboration and I feel it’s more relevant now than ever before as we are all experiencing our own transformation as the world is changing around us. How have you incorporated the values of BVLGARI throughout this collection? My mother used to wear BVLGARI jewellery when I was growing up, so I was familiar with their aesthetic at a very young age. Being able to study their archives and discover their design codes, I feel we share a similar vision. We share a common appreciation of harmony and balance, a focus on timeless elegance whilst being daring at the same time and of course an affinity to bold colour. With the minaudière as an example, I was inspired by BVLGARI’s much-adored Serpenti watch. Bringing the iconic Serpenti head to the forefront of the design, I wanted
“We share a common appreciation of harmony and balance.” to use its shape to define the silhouette of the minaudière. It was a BVLGARI first and I really think it creates a strong link between the world of High Jewellery, the world of watches and the world of accessories. This collection also includes a fragrance, Omina. Tell us about the collaboration with Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas on the creation of this new scent? Through the ‘Serpenti Through the Eyes of’ collection and
FAS H I O N
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our Omina collaboration, I was able to apply my creativity to two different worlds of BVLGARI. I was inspired by the joyful spirit and the exuberance of the Omina Collection which is why we decided to focus on crafting Omina by Mary Katranzou, together with Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas. My intention was to captivate the uplifting energy of nature’s most wondrous flowers and create a world of reassuring and touchable joy. What is your signature scent? I love the smell of fresh gardenias and that of mandarin and orange blossom. Alberto used these notes to create our Omnia fragrance that is based on my childhood memories of summers spent in Greece. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – which specific scent evokes childhood memories for you? My favourite flower is gardenia. When I was growing up, we had a beautiful gardenia tree in our garden and my mother used to put them in tiny glass vases on our bedside table. It was the first smell I experienced while waking up every day and before going to bed at night.
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B E A U T Y F
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SON VENÏN
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Hot New Buys C O M P I L E D BY: S A R A H J O S E P H
The best edit of the latest luxe fragrance to elevate your day
Warm Notes Notes of wood are balanced with fresh florals, warm clove, sandalwood and cardamom for an intense shot of fragrance that will transport you to Morocco. Dhs335 for 10ml Aesop
THE NEW CLASSIC Featuring notes of bergamot, lemon, patchouli and sandalwood, this scent is a true ode to the Maison. Dhs820 for 75ml Chanel
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This remarkable limited-edition combines vibrant bursts with modern creativity with the exclusively created mouth-blown glass bottle complete with 18k white gold funnel. Dhs23,874 Tiffany & Co.
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
The Limited Edition
BEAUTY
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Muguet Bouquet This fragrance diffuser will fill your home with a citrus aroma. Dhs169 Hyascent available on Nordstrom.com
MIXED EMOTIONS This reassuring scent of black tea focuses on the comforting notes of maté and combines with it a sharp sweetness of abstract ideas. Dhs530 for 50ml Byredo
Sea Breeze Offering an uninhibited escape, Costa Azzurra channels deep woody scents with a crisp medley of cypress adding fresh aromatic notes. Dhs492 for 50ml Tom Ford Beauty
Warm Citrus
Soft Floral
Like basking in sunlight, this golden blend beautifully incorporates subtle hints of grapefruit, lavender, peppermint and ginger. Dhs81 Vitruvi
BEAUTY
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Adding a fresh hint of magnolia, Étoile Filante evokes a sense of lighthearted joy. Dhs1,180 Louis Vuitton
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BEAUTY
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
THE DREAM TEAM Co-founders of Ex Nihilo, Benoît Verdier, Olivier Royère and Sylvie Loday discuss their first memories of scent BEAUTY
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So, any milky notes and cinnamon notes remind me of my first memories in America. Which notes in a fragrance do you personally look for? BV: I like very much Iris for its sophisticated touch, orange blossom for its sparkling effect and all the woods with a crush for Tonka Bean and Vetiver. We travel a lot and I can say we really hate this uniformed International Airport smell, a mix of the sillage of Duty-Free stores and all these commercial juices, it’s the same smell all over the world! OR: I love Sandalwood and smoky notes because it reminds me of my youth in Sweden. Anything that is smoky captures my attention. SL: I love smells with character, that are atypical or express its owner’s personality. All three of us look for this, but personally
I enjoy more complex, and intellectual floral bouquets notes. Which ExNihilo scent is your favourite and why? BV: I would say our most iconic creation, Fleur Narcotique. When I smelled it for the very first time, it was really something stunning and very addictive. We were looking for some quintessential sillage to embody the new Parisian woman from the Right Bank, then Quentin had this idea of an overdose of Peony with an edge of lychee, we automatically fell in love with it and today it is our most iconic creation! OR: I think we share the same love for Fleur Narcotique, but I would also add Bois d’Hiver because of its powerful woody notes. SL : That’s easy, Fleur Narcotique. I love the fragrance just as much as the story behind it.
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What is your first memory of scent? BV: I’m a real Southerner! Whenever I smell a fragrance or ingredient that is reminiscent of my parents’ garden in the South of France, I am transported there: Pine trees, Figs, Lavender plant and aromatic trees, even the smell of the red-hot soil of Mediterranean landscapes... these are is my first olfactory memories. OR: My first memory consists of a reception in the heat of the tropical gardens of the French embassy in the Philippines. My childhood cradled in my mother’s perfume, Joy by Jean Patou, and my grandfather’s delicate eau de Cologne, Arnys. SL: My olfactory memories are a true melting pot, reflecting my composite culture: Brittany’s ocean and salty tides with America’s big cities, pancakes and maple syrup.
BEAUTY
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BEAUTY
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
THE LEGEND
Contemporary, internationally-renowned perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, Co-founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian discusses what it takes to launch a successful brand in the perfume space 58 emirateswoman.com
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What do the first 30 mins of your day look like, your morning routine? I am an early bird. I wake up at 6am at the latest and I am instantaneously operational! My brain is immediately ready to go. I drink a hot cup of water to wake up or matcha tea then a couple of hours later I have a couple of expresso shots. Then I go to the shower where I love to use my scented shower gels. It’s like my morning routine to pick which one I will be using, depending on my mood. When it’s cold outside, I use Aqua Vitae shower gel, if it’s a bright sunny and hot day, I use Aqua Celestia. Aqua Universalis, when I travel away from home. What is at the heart of Maison Francis Kurkdjian, the DNA? Maison Francis Kurkdjian is a perfumer’s house that celebrates freedom of creation, quality of products and services and kindness at all levels. You previously created one of the most widely selling fragrances at Jean Paul Gaultier. Tell us how your past experiences led you to cofound your own brand? Right after Le Mâle for Jean-Paul Gaultier, I went to live in New York for several years, creating fragrances for beauty companies such as Estée Lauder, Elizabeth Arden or Coty. In early 2000, I returned to Paris, continued to create fragrances for many other beauty and fashion companies and started to create bespoke scents at the same time. In 2003, I met Marc with whom I became friends. We both realized that we were sharing the same vision of lifestyle and definition of luxury. Plus, we had complementary professional and creative skills. We co-founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian in 2009. His vision and sense of business have been one of the key points of the success behind Maison Francis Kurkdjian. I am very proud of what we have built together over the past 11 years. How did you know you were ready to make the leap and launch your own brand? It’s not about being ready, it’s about feeling you have to do it. An inner force and energy overwhelm you and urge you to do it. I wanted to share my vision on scents and luxury with the public. I have envisioned an entire scented line wherein lies a harmony within all the product forms.
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“Quality, refinement, soberness are the three key words that we had
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in m
had
in mind during the conception. Each product is precisely detailed.”
Have you had any mentors along the way and if so what has been the best advice they have imparted to you? I was once given this advice: “Never think you are satisfied; never think you are done.” How do the creative and commercial sides of the business work together and do you feel particularly drawn to one side of the business? The Maison is a balance around Marc Chaya, CEO and co-founder, and I. The main reason of our success lies in the fact we both strongly understand each other and are capable to step into each other’s shoes. I’m a perfumer with strong business sensibility while Marc is a performant business leader with a strong creative drive. I focus on composing extraordinary fragrances and emotions while Marc focuses on strategy, marketing and sales development. We both work together in order to ensure beautiful aesthetics and a sound creative direction. The aesthetic of Maison Francis Kurkdjian feels superlatively elegant and clean. Was this a clear vision from the outset? Oh yes, totally, it was the vision from day one. From the packaging and bottle to the visual identity everything is made in-house. Quality, refinement, soberness are the 3 key words that we had in mind during the conception. Each product is precisely detailed. To me, all these are the definition of true and modern luxury. The bottles took their inspiration from antique crystal bottles we bought in a flea market in Paris. We totally redesigned them to include a natural spray and more to bring the unique technology of an invisible spray tube to give the bottle its transparency, elegance and aesthetics. What has been the biggest challenge since launching the brand and how did you overcome it? On my side, each new fragrance is a new creative challenge and the biggest. It is a new story to tell and, in the end, it has to become an ideal olfactory form. Most recently when we launched l’Homme À La Rose, the aim was to create a fragrance with a rose scent you could not miss, while keeping it very masculine. That was a very complex challenge during the creation of this fragrance. So, I paired a grapefruit accord
with Damask rose oil from Bulgaria to give a sensation of natural vitality. At the heart of the composition you have some rosy notes, coupled with a very woody accord which brings some verticality to the fragrance. Finally, the woody amber base notes infuse sensuality to the trail. Thus, the rose accord stays at the heart of the fragrance and cannot be missed, and the other top notes in the background bring masculinity and strength. The last year was a time that saw brands change strategy. Have you had to pivot as a business? Marc and I don’t really look at what competitors are doing. We have our own path to follow. Last year, we empowered our digital strategy that was already in process. How has social media affected the business and which platform has been most useful? The power of marketing via social networks is very strong now. Marc Chaya and I have a real digital strategy in mind. We are aiming to become the first digital brand in our field and today, we have more than 200K followers on Instagram. It’s not so much about the number but more how they follow you and engage with the brand. But, let’s not forget that the product and its quality remain essential! Quality is definitely the new luxury. Do you see any buying trends globally in terms of scents and if so which? Being contemporary does not mean you have to follow trends. As far as I am concerned, I stay away from trends. Instead, I follow my artistic vision and my feelings about the contemporary world we live in. Trends often disappear as fast as they appear. I want my clients to feel different and not feeling concerned about wearing an outdated fragrance or not. I want to reassure them that they are allowed to wear different things, creating their own fragrance wardrobe and selecting a scent to fit a certain mood or occasion. Trends are good for fashion as the pace for fashion is to outdate what was once fashionable. Scents are based on a different momentum. Which is your personal favourite and why? I don’t have any favourite scents. As a perfumer, when it comes to my personal taste, the ones I have in mind for the future are always the most intriguing and appealing to me. In fact, the
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most exciting in life is always what lies ahead. This is The Fragrance Issue – what is your signature scent/your earliest memory of scent? Surprisingly, since I have been creating perfumes, I no longer wear fragrance outside of what I am currently working on. I need to personally experience each of them, live with them until I decide they are completed. Hence, I don’t have a signature scent. Actually, I strongly believe that the dictate of wearing one single fragrance (aka signature scent) is totally passé and outdated when you consider our modern lives. Women and men now have much more freedom and power to express all the facets of their personality. From work, to love, being a parent… we all are multiple and there is not one single fragrance that could embrace all the facets of one personality. This is why I have created a collection of perfumes that can be experienced as a fragrance wardrobe similar to a wardrobe in the Fashion world. Each scent from Maison Francis Kurkdjian has its own unique signature and can fulfil all your emotional answers. It is a unique positioning in the fragrance industry. You can be loyal to a brand and expect a diversity of moods. From Aqua Universalis and its unique freshness to the creation of Baccarat Rouge 540, the olfactive spectrum is wide and accompanies women and men in their life. My earliest scent memories are definitely associated to the fragrances of my family. Each member had a distinctive scent, which I still remember. My grandfather used to dilute his own cologne. I never discovered the recipe though. I just remember him mixing things and creating his own blend. I was so fascinated and also proud of him! He was a hero to me. My grandmother was The Real Grandma: caring, loving. She covered me with kisses and of course her fragrance, Femme by Rochas, would be printed on my skin! My late mother had different fragrances. She was very modern I think for her generation. From fresh fragrances such as First by Van Cleef and Arpels or Fidji by Guy Laroche, to Mitsouko or the first fragrance by Karl Lagergeld. It was another era with fragrances that no longer resonate in people’s mind.
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
The Premier Perfumer Aurelien Guichard is the genius behind MATIERE PREMIERE, the contemporary perfume brand crafting fragrances structured around one exceptional, carefully sourced, natural ingredient 62 emirateswoman.com
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What do the first 30 mins of your day look like, your morning routine? I like to wake up early. When I am in Paris, I drink my coffee by the window, watching the sun rise over the trees of the Jardin du Luxembourg. Then, I ride my motorbike across the Seine, through place de la Concorde and up the avenue des Champs Elysées, to go to my creative laboratory. I’m looking forward to the month of May, when I will be back in my home near Grasse, in the South of France. I will watch the same sun rise over our fields of Rose Centifolia, and walk along the gravel path that leads to my atelier-lab. What is at the heart of MATIERE PREMIERE, the DNA? In each MATIERE PREMIERE fragrance we allow one central, natural ingredient to shine, by uplifting its most beautiful facets. We put the emphasis on excellence in perfume quality, from raw materials sourcing to the final stages of bottling. We want to be one of the most qualitative brands on the market. Our promise is an unforgettable sillage, an emotional imprint that will never fade. In a way, I find our approach very close to the way people in the Middle East relate to fragrances, which I have always felt in line with. They have a love for beautiful raw materials, such a cypriol, rose, patchouli, saffron, spices and they also value perfumes as something that should have a strong identity, leave an imprint, that should express opulence by its immediately-perceived quality, its projection, its long-lasting power. You’ve worked for Maisons in-house, how did those experiences lead you to launching your own brand? I am still working today for many different Couture Maisons. I put my craft as a Perfumer at the service of these Houses. The designers share their initial vision, and then we build ideas together. With MATIERE PREMIERE, I am able to put my craft at the service of the raw materials that surround me. It is something I had always wanted to do, but somehow the projects with Couture Houses or brands never allowed it fully. I want to reveal the beauty of the most beautiful natural ingredients in dedicated, extremely qualitative fragrances. These creations have in common our MATIERE PREMIERE approach, where simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. How did you know you were ready to make the leap and launch your own brand? It’s a project I always carried in me. I was born the 7th generation of a family of Perfumers. I grew up between Paris and Grasse, where my grand-parents grew fields of roses, tuberoses and jasmine. As a Perfumer, I wanted to grow my own raw materials in the most qualitative way, and the first leap I took was to create my organic rose centifolia farm, in 2016. Then I had the privilege to meet my two cofounders, and it became a collective adventure.
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business? The past year did not alter our strategy, we were on the contrary comforted in our will to offer unique, powerful fragrances, with a strong sillage. Clients seem to express the desire to go back to the essentials; it is exactly what we do in our fragrances – going back to the essence of the raw material. In a period when our faces are half covered by masks, when we must stay at a distance, when we cannot touch each other, we can still smell. Wearing a fragrance
“In each MATIERE PREMIERE fragrance we allow one central, natural ingredient to shine.” signs your presence, it creates a bond, it is reassuring, both for yourself and for others. How has social media affected the business and which platform has been most useful? Just like for any other business, more and more clients tend to carry out internet research about their future perfume purchases. They value users or influencers’ opinions, before making their own mind. More than a niche fragrance house, we want to be one of the most qualitative fra-
grance houses, so what matters is any media or platform where people will experience and talk about our creations in their own words, with their own impressions. Instagram is the platform where we express ourselves primarily as a Perfume House, but perfume experts and enthusiasts talk about our fragrances on any platform that suits their communities best: YouTube, Tik Tok, Facebook, Twitter and editorial. Do you see any buying trends globally in terms of scents and if so which? There are new trends appearing every day; we choose not to follow any in particular. There is something essential and timeless in valuing the quality of natural ingredients. In terms of buying trends, the context for the past year has boosted online sales. It is never easy for products which you need to experience first, such as perfumes. For us the scent is everything, and from the beginning we wanted people to be able to smell our fragrances. From our boutique online, you have the possibility to order scented blotters of our entire collection, to give you a first overview in the comfort of your home, as if you were in a boutique. Which is your personal favourite and why? I personally love our 6ml bottles. They have been part of my daily life as a Perfumer, and all my friends used to find them so attractive and rush to them in my bathroom, rather than the large bottles! I love that now, thanks to MATIERE PREMIERE, we are sharing this professional tool with perfume lovers, that they can get to use them every day, just like we Perfumers do. They come with their adaptable atomizer, and dispense 95 sprays. With the quality, power and sillage of our fragrances, it can last several weeks, it is the perfect discovery/travel size. And in our custom sets, you can make your own selection of 3 or 6 fragrances, they can be different or all the same if you are a fan of one specific fragrance, it gives you a lot of freedom. I love our custom sets also because it is impossible for me to pick one particular fragrance as my favourite. I’ve loved raw materials since my childhood, and there is not one above the others. But of course, Radical Rose holds a special place in my heart, as it is the result of a global project, that started with growing my own organic rose centifolia flowers. This is The Fragrance Issue – what is your signature scent/your earliest memory of scent? I grew up in a family of perfume plant farmers. I remember vividly the rose harvests of my childhood: the smell of the shed where the pickers put down their baskets, filled with odorant flowers. Their scent mingled with the smell of the burlap sacks, of the kerosene from agricultural machinery, and the smell of clay. I created Radical Rose in that spirit.
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We share the same vision: we wanted to create a Perfume House dedicated to raw materials, and to offer perfumes that would be among the most qualitative in the world. Have you had any mentors along the way and if so what has been the best advice they have imparted to you? I have had the chance to work with and for the greatest. They all taught me to believe in my own ideas, and that our profession was one of the most beautiful in the world. Their advice has always been: the quality of the raw material in a perfume is everything, then it is the Perfumer’s role to make it unique, to make it smell wonderful, and to make it last. How do the creative and commercial sides of the business work together and do you feel particularly drawn to one side of the business? There are no two sides of the business for us. Everything we do serves our one and only obsession: to create an emotional imprint. Thanks to the unique sillage of our perfumes, thanks to the extreme quality of the raw materials, thanks to our work of composition. This is the core of our business, this is what will please our clients. The aesthetic for MATIERE PREMIERE is clean and minimal. Was this a clear vision from the outset? Our aesthetic is functional, linked with my daily life and décor as a Perfumer. Our 6ml bottle is the actual bottle we as Perfumers use every day, to evaluate our compositions. We dip the point of a blotter in it, and if we are convinced we adapt a spray on it, to wear the fragrance and evaluate further. Our 100ml bottle design is inspired by the 6ml bottle. The colour of our fragrances are absolutely natural, it comes from the raw materials and we find it absolutely beautiful. We add no synthetic colouring agent, and as little stabilizing agent as necessary. Our aesthetic has only one goal: to place the scent itself at the centre, to allow the raw material to shine, and let our clients enjoy the work of a Perfumer. What has been the biggest challenge since launching the brand and how did you overcome it? Our perpetual challenge is to source the best raw materials from all corners of the world, and to find a unique and creative way to highlight their most beautiful facets. And since we launched in October 2019, our challenge has been of course to develop despite the COVID restrictions. In this difficult context, we had to stay in touch with raw material producers, receive samples and keep our sourcing work going. We also did our best to develop our presence worldwide, to allow as many people as possible to try our fragrances. But there are still many cities and countries where people are asking for MATIERE PREMIERE and cannot find it yet – we’re working on it! The last year was a time that saw brands change strategy. Have you had to pivot as a
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A Private Collection An elevated take on traditional fragrance WORDS:AMY SESSIONS
beginnings as a perfumer, dominates the collection, shading the singular features of each composition.
Created by Hedi Slimane, author of the private collection of perfumes at maison Christian Dior in 2004, the Celine perfume collection draws its know-how from French high perfumery, in keeping with the tradition of the ‘couturier parfumeur’. The Celine haute parfumerie collection is comprised of 11 perfumes. The names chosen by Hedi Slimane for each perfume stem from the couturier’s olfactory journal.
The bottle The rectangular bottle designed by Hedi Slimane for Celine is in keeping with the great tradition of French glassmaking.
The journal of a couturier
Hedi Slimane’s powdery olfactory signature All the perfumes are linked together by one singular olfactory imprint. A powdery note, highly prized by the couturier since his
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The starting point and the root of the collection’s creation is Hedi Slimane’s olfactory journal, where each perfume relies on the memory of emotions, on a specific memory or the narrative of the couturier. Hence, there is a personal and sentimental character at the heart of the project and Hedi Slimane’s relationship with his perfumers.
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The Bespoke Blend
Infusing the best of West and East, Swiss Arabian has been leading the way in the fragrance realm in the UAE for over 45 years 68 emirateswoman.com
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With a rich history spanning over almost half a century, and as the first fragrance house in the UAE, Swiss Arabian has mastered the perfect blend with classic notes from Arabia infused with influences from the West. Ensuring expertise, heritage and craftsmanship are at the forefront of all of their creations, the perfume house now has over 70 stores across the GCC and produces more than 35 million perfumes annually, exporting to over 80 countries globally. With its ever-evolving and expanding range of fragrances, Swiss Arabian has recently introduced its latest collection inspired by a specific Arabic letter. Introducing the WAAW collection which takes notes from the letter – pronounced “waaw”. In the Arabic language, it is known as a powerful symbol of unity as it is used to join everything together, which is exactly what Swiss Arabian’s WAAW collection evokes – things that unite us. With Eid Al Fitr approaching, it’s a time for celebration with your loved ones and it’s the perfect opportunity to give a gift with a loving and special mean-
ing behind it, which is exemplified with this latest Swiss Arabian collection. The first series in the WAAW collection encompasses six fragrances – Gharaam, Hawa, Hayaam, Wajd, Walaa and Ishq – inspired by the various forms of love, as nothing unites hearts more than this unifying emotion. The six premium unisex scents in the WAAW Love collection retail for Dhs180 and are available for purchase in Swiss Arabian stores and online at swissarabian.com.
THE HERO FRAGRANCES GHARAAM Encompassing soft notes of jasmine, saffron and amber, this fragrance takes inspiration from the first stages of love and specifically means infatuation.
HAWA Meaning desire, this fragrance fuses citrus scents and floral notes including mandarin, rose, orange flower and white jasmine.
HAYAAM With the name meaning adoration, Hayaam is a fragrance that includes warm earthy ingredients like leather and woody amber infused with citrus notes.
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WAJD Aiming to tell a story of passion, this fragrance features ingredients such as Turkish rose, red apples and patchouli.
WALAA Encompassing the true meaning of deep love, this perfume evokes a sense of happiness with notes of lavender, mandarin orange and white jasmine.
ISHQ A fragrance which is an ode to the powerful form of timeless love, Ishq infuses notes of warm black pepper and spicy saffron and later depletes and diffuses notes of roses and smooth leather.
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WORDS: OLIVIA
MORRIS
Scented Skincare An exceptional edit of the best in fragrant skincare
La Mer Crème de la Mer
ate and rejuvenate the skin and refine the appearance of pores.
Omorovicza Miracle Facial Oil
This powerful cream is rich in luxurious ingredients which hydrate and restore the skin.
Dhs225 available at lookfantastic.ae
Filled with a blend of precious and vitamin-rich ingredients, this face oil helps to restore youthful-looking skin.
500ml Dhs8148 available at Ounass Chanel N°5 The Body Cream
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Infused with Chanel’s iconic fragrance, this luxurious body cream helps soften, comfort and hydrate skin for up to eight hours. Dhs425 available at sephora.ae Rodial Vitamin C Brightening Pads
With ingredients including citrus, pomegranate and other fruit extracts combined with salicylic acid and vitamin C, these pads from Rodial exfoli-
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Glow Vitamin C and Tumeric Face Oil
Infused with advanced vitamin C and golden turmeric, this face oil from Sunday Riley gives the skin instant vibrance as well as antioxidant defence. 35ml Dhs310 available at sephora.ae Fenty Skin Fat Water
Full of rich antioxidants, this toner helps even out skin tone and gives the skin an overall brighter appearance. Dhs105 available at sephora.ae
30ml Dhs340 available at lookfantastic.ae Tata Harper Elixir Vitae Serum
Key ingredients in this Tata Harper hero skincare product include quadruple neuropeptide technology: powered by Spanish lavender and spilanthe, as well as dual weight hyaluronic acid. This, along with the 70 other ingredients, ensure youthful plumpness and volume to the skin are restored. 30ml Dhs2000 available at bloomingdales.ae
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Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte’s Magic Cream Moisturizer
Featuring eight magic ingredients including hyaluronic acid, vitamins C and E, as well as frangipani extract for a soothing fragrance, this moisturiser hydrates the skin instantly and ensures intense moisturisation for up to 24 hours. 30ml Dhs280 available at namshi.com Jo Malone Vitamin E Gel
This rich and luxurious gel contains vitamin E and antioxidants which protect the skin against the damaging effects of the environment. 30ml Dhs500
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The Beauty of Byredo
“I built Byredo to be anything, that’s the beauty of it,” Ben Gorham, Founder of Byredo, says. Here Gorham tells Emirates Woman why his brand is so much more than fragrance WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS Can you talk us through the inspiration behind Byredo? After failing as a professional basketball player I went to art school. Art school was a great time for me in terms of freedom and discovery – the opposite of training as a professional athlete where everything is all about discipline. It started with painting but then I became obsessed with scent as an expressive art form – it connects so many things to emotive responses. Smell is the sense most linked with memory and I wanted to play with that. It was a chance meeting with a perfumer that really crystalised this idea in my mind – and so Byredo was born. How has the brand evolved since it launched in 2006? I built Byredo to be anything, that’s the beauty of it. So, when there is an idea that
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can’t be bottled into a perfume we are free to express it in other ways. It all comes from the same place – the notion of something perfectly expressed, everything is an over spilling creative thought from something else. It all fits together into the full Byredo narrative. We feel really grateful that people have continued to support us and grow with us and it always comes down to the people – the people who buy and share our products or the people we collaborate with. We have a very open approach to creativity and collaboration at Byredo and it’s a big part of the brand, its evolution and its success. We launched our makeup collection last October in collaboration with Isamaya Ffrench, which was over two years in the
making. Some of the other collaborations over recent years have included an accessories collaboration with Craig McDean; a perfume with Virgil Abloh, called Elevator Music with limited edition clothing too. Our approach to collaborations mirrors our approach to Byredo products in every aspect – to create unique products that are carefully considered and come from a place of nostalgia and timelessness. Always working with people I admire and respect. The fragrance industry is vast – how do you stay relevant in the market? When I launched Byredo, the world was full of fragrances that were really binary in their approach to female and male scents and a lot of them looked and smelt the same. It didn’t make sense in my
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mind to have a separate fragrance for men and women. Restaurants are not female and male-specific and they don’t serve female and male food so why have this for the beauty industry. What I love most about Byredo is that we don’t fit into one category or one definition – that is probably the biggest difference. Of course, we are at our core a beauty brand, but our spirit is free and obsessed with perfection – and that tension between the two means we really can create anything. In terms of fragrance, what does Byredo represent? When I started Byredo, I would create products from a completely subjective place, I would tap into this idea of “collective memory” or “collective emotion” and you realize that your position is more about proposing and inspiring, or igniting an emotional memory. So, that became the vehicle: Byredo was very much about just putting ideas out there that you feel people can relate to in a genuine way and I’ve continued on that path. Over the years I’ve really understood the notes that I like and how to bring these together to create the smells that I connect with. I work with the same perfumer in Paris I’ve worked with from the beginning, who also understands my preferences and so over time we have become a fine-tuned partnership. The notes and ingredients themselves for me create the framework but it’s ultimately the emotion they bring to people that really drives the desired result. Where does the fragrance market currently stand? We are in a fortunate position where we don’t look at the fragrance market in order to create. But I can say personally that this period of global upheaval has given new resonance to our most recent scents like
Mixed Emotions and Open Sky. As people have been home we have seen a surge in home fragrances and handcare. Fragrance is really a luxury and something that is so personal to the wearer. It can’t be seen and isn’t always easy to identify but I think that people want that sense and celebration of self-identity. There are more niche and artisan brands on the market now and even more ways to wear fragrance. Our hair perfumes are one of my favourite products, and also Toile which can be used on your fabrics. You’ve recently opened a store in The Dubai Mall. Why did you choose the Middle East as a location for a flagship store? This is our first standalone store in the Arab World, our first beauty store in Dubai and one of the first boutiques to carry our new makeup collection in the store. So it was somewhat of a milestone for us in the Middle East. As with every Byredo retail space, we wanted to create something new yet familiar, so we landed on extraordinarily vivid colours and texture contrasts that frame and display the pure lines of the beauty products. With this new beauty store concept, there is a unique evolution of the Byredo universe that echoes our founding principles. We have used the best materials to create something visceral. I really want people to experience the many emotions of Byredo when they enter the store and by contrast the purity of our products. What have been the main hurdles you’ve had to overcome since launching the brand? What I always like to remind people of is that, when I started Byredo, I didn’t really know anything about fragrances, about fashion, about people in this industry. I had
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lost the one thing I did well in life – which was sports – and I started this brand without any preconceived ideas about what other people were doing. One of Byredo’s founding notions was that, even though I would create products from a subjective place, I wanted to tap into the idea of a collective memory, or collective emotion. And it’s much easier to do that if you take your ego out of the equation and realise that your role is more about igniting an emotional memory. Byredo became a vehicle for putting ideas out into the world which I felt people could relate to in a genuine way. And I’ve continued on that path. And what have been the milestones? We have been so lucky to celebrate many milestones as a young brand of just 15 years. Most recently I’m incredibly proud of the success of our makeup launch, which sought to disrupt the notion that beauty is something a brand dictates and allow people to express their creativity and own ideas about what beauty means to them. Ultimately, beauty is subjective – and Byredo makeup reflects that. You can see this idea in the launch image we created with Jessie Kanda. It is such a radical departure from most beauty campaigns, which was a deliberately ambiguous choice and designed to be interpreted by the eye of the beholder. That’s how we arrived with a collection where gender and identity boundaries are refuted, industry conventions are dismissed. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? One day I want to make a fragrance called Bens! In the meantime I love Palermo a lot, it’s a soft fragrance that I could wear. It smells of grapefruits, bergamot, lime with lots of musky notes.
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
What made you want to conquer the world of fragrance? Fragrances have always been around me. My grandparents had a garden with so many smells, it changed all year round which was amazing. My mother also worked in fragrances so I was always surrounded by lots of raw materials and always smelled different fragrances. There is something special about fragrances. It can instantly bring you somewhere else or remind you of someone that mattered. It has such a strong emotional effect. I believe that is why we chose to do what we do. When someone smells one of our fragrances and is transported for a minute and is truly moved, it is the most amazing thing. That is why we do our job. How does Ormaie stay relevant in an abundant market? I feel by staying very honest in the creation process you stay relevant. If you talk about things that are profound to you it will speak to other people. Cultivating a know-how is also very important I feel. For us it is all the artisans we work with, the people cultivating the flowers, only using natural ingredients, but also the bottles, from the glassmakers to our bottle caps in wood polished by hand. That know-how becomes more and more profound and people can feel it in the product. In terms of fragrance, what does Ormaie represent? It is always hard to say but I hope we represent a sort of poetry in fragrance making. We try to express what matters to us and we hope it brings emotion and beauty to the people we interact with. What is the current state of the fragrance market? I feel more and more people are attracted to smaller brands that try to bring something new. I truly believe if these brands stay true to their values and stay very creative with amazing quality products they have the potential to become the strong actors of tomorrow. How would you say the GCC region is different from others in terms of fragrance? The culture of fragrances is just amazing. Every person I meet here has a wide knowledge of fragrances and raw materials. Everyone has a story. There is such beauty I find in the fact that fragrances have been such a part of the region and the culture for centuries. I also love the fact that some scents are so unique to the region, they really tell a story about the people. Since launching your brand, what have been the main challenges you’ve had to overcome? Frankly, we have been quite lucky. People seem to respond in a positive way to what we tried to express. Obviously, the global situation has probably made the business a bit more complicated but we have been very amazing. My mother is one of the best crefortunate overall. ative directors in the world when it comes to fragrances, it’s a real pleasure working And what have been the milestones? Opening with her. What is interesting in the developin new regions is always a great milestone for ment of new fragrances is that we have the us. We try to find partners that understand same olfactive memory. We lived in the same us everywhere in the world and we have been places. I can tell her, “I feel like this smells very fortunate so far. Opening in Bloomingtoo much like the soap in my grandmother’s dale’s was actually a great milestone for us. kitchen” and she will know exactly what I It’s probably one of the places where the best am talking about. fragrance brands are present and it was a true honour to be amongst them. We are also How has the brand evolved since it launched? coming out with a few products this year and We launched in 2018 and three years down I believe that will also be a great feeling. We the line, our values have not changed at all. take a very long time to create and we always We very much stay a family where creativity look forward to the reaction of people. matters the most. We are a bit bigger now but we stay very human-sized. We feel lucky This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your that the vision we had surrounding Ormaie signature scent? I wear Le Passant. My fais being realized and people seem to like it. ther always wore lavenders and I have also We love that every step of the way new artalways worn them. There is something very ists or artisans add their part to the story. French about it, I find.
A Family Affair
Baptiste Bouygues founded his fragrance brand, Ormaie, with his mother in 2018 with family being at the heart of it. Built on a sense of nostalgia combined with creativity, Bouygues reveals the story behind the brand and why he won’t sway from the family values at its core
Can you talk us through the inspiration behind Ormaie? Ormaie is all about expressing and translating moments, people or feelings that were important to me. We wanted to put creativity at the centre of everything we did. I believe when you want to be truly creative you need to search into something you know and that is what will speak to people. Yvonne for example was the name of my grandmother and the inspiration is the beautiful roses and Parchoulis she always wears but with a modern twist. Papier Carbone is the smell I remember from my school. I also wanted to use only natural ingredients. We find there is beauty and poetry in creating a fragrance with only natural ingredients. There is something exceptional about nature I find, it really touches your soul. What has it been like working alongside your mother for the past five years? It has been
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WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
Magnification
Luis Miguel, Head of BVLGARI’s perfume division, takes us through the latest olfactory launch; Allegra – an Italian sensorial journey What inspired the concept of Allegra? Allegra represents the BVLGARI way to magnify the Italian Superlative Emotions. Italy and Rome are a great source of inspiration, from its landscapes, flavours, passion, lively social encounters, or its magnificent “festa”; the emotions we feel were translated into magnificent perfume experiences by Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier, allowing our clients to personalize and amplify their own perfume experience with the use of Magnifying: very concentrated, exclusive and highly qualitative essences. What is the DNA of the collection? As above, beyond the Italian emotions, we want to bring innovation in the area of personalisation, which is currently on trend, especially for the most discerning clients. The design concept is bold and colourful – was it a decision from the outset to stand out from the monochrome palette of many fragrances? By definition, BVLGARI is bold, daring and innovative. We are the masters of Color Gemstones as jewellers. We decided to break the clutter of the high-end collections to make a strong statement in the way how we bring to life who we are as brand. The design of the flacon is inspired by the iconic cabochon cut, present in the most exquisite pieces of High Jewellery. Tell us about the art of layering applied to this collection? We wanted to bring an intuitive way for our clients to personalise their fra-
grance experience. Magnifying allows our clients to apply high concentrated monoingredient essences on top of the Eau de Parfum, to showcase a facet of the Eau de Parfum that is highly desired by the client’s own particular taste. For example, if you apply Fantasia Veneta Eau de Parfum, and you want to amp it up a notch, you would apply it on top our Magnifying Patchouli.
“We wanted to bring an intuitive way for our clients to personalise their fragrance experience.” Are there any exceptional ingredients which have been incorporated into this collection? Absolutely, ingredients present in the Eau de Parfum and especially in the Magnifying Essences have been crafted and faceted exclusively for BVLGARI by Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier. These ingredients are not
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available in its exact form to any other brand in the market. We started with 5 of the most iconic gems of nature in perfumery, like Rose, Bergamot, Musk, Vanilla and Patchouli. What are your personal favourite notes? I have a great passion for musk in general, and in the ALLEGRA collection we have managed to craft a very enveloping, caressing and pure white musk. When you apply it, it feels like it touches you. The packaging of this collection is sustainably focused. Tell us about this? We have maximized the use of eco-conception techniques in the design, creation and manufacturing of our packaging. The flacons of the Eau de Parfum are made of 96% glass. Even our caps are made of glass which facilitates recycling for our clients. They simply have to unscrew the pump, and in one step they can recycle the entirety of the body and cap of the flacon. We have collaborated with our paper strategic suppliers to use paper that is 100% FSC certified and in addition, we have used the biproducts of Italian lemon peels in the paper mix, which helped to consume 40% less paper. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – which specific scent evokes fond childhood memories for you? The most memorable fragrance experience from childhood is definitely the scent of wet grass in a humid summer morning in Venezuela. I simply adored lying down on the grass and smelling its scent.
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The Beauty Shelf
Haneen Odeh, founder of Snob Salon in Dubai, takes us through her hero beauty products C O M P I L E D BY: O L I V I A M O R R I S
Tobacco Vanille Dhs491 Tom Ford
If you’ve ever met me, chances are I’m wearing this fragrance. It’s my signature scent and I can’t live without it. Skin Food Original Ultra-Rich Cream Dhs66 Weleda
Regenerating Cleanser 125ml Dhs370 Tata Harper
Made with 100 per cent natural ingredients, this cleanser gently exfoliates the skin while deep cleansing pores and easing skin congestion. It’s what I use every morning! Baies Candle Dhs258 Diptyque
Gorgeous blackcurrant notes are what this candle is all about. I love how it makes the house smell, and it’s my favourite to light up as I wind down for the evening. Clarity Tonic Dhs75 Pixi
This toner that contains both AHAs and BHAs is the answer to our maskne problems. All those pesky breakouts on the jaw and chin are gone since I started using this toner. Highly recommend.
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Brow Freeze Dhs102 Anastasia Beverly Hills
Powder-No-Powder Dhs184 Dior Backstage
This is the ultimate product I use to create that “laminated” look that you’re seeing all over social media. A styling wax, it’s easy to use and keeps my brows brushed up all day.
Literally powder, but no powder. This product sets my makeup but doesn’t look – or feel – like I have any powder on. It’s incredible. Tinted Face Oil Dhs180 Kosas
This Tinted Face Oil is an ultralightweight foundation offering deep hydration, medium coverage and all-day wear. It has a serum-like formula and the finish is extremely natural and skin-like. I’ve been wearing this for months and get complimented on it all the time. No.3 Hair Perfector Dhs130 Olaplex
I recently had my hair bleached and this is my saviour! It rebuilds broken hair bonds so your hair is stronger. Absolutely recommend for any colour treated hair.
Oi All-In-One Hair Milk Dhs126 Davines
Love this lightweight but deeply hydrating hair milk. Especially on my dry ends! Can be used on wet hair to control the frizz or on dry hair to refresh the look! C.E.O Glow Vitamin C And Tumeric Face Oil 35ml Dhs310 Sunday Riley
I love vitamin C and especially this one from Sunday Riley. It’s packed full of antioxidants and its formula ensures that it reaches the deepest layers of the skin. It’s also deeply hydrating and gives me a wonderful glow.
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This moisturiser is the one I reach for the most when I need something to rescue my dry skin. It might be heavy for some, but there’s a lighter version too to suit all skin types.
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“The content of this this promotion campaign represents the views of the author only and is his/her sole responsibility. The European Commission and the Consumers, Health, Agriculture and Food Executive Agency (CHAFEA) do not accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains.”
CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION
THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE A HEALTHY LIFESTYLE
C O M P I L E D BY: S A R A H J O S E P H
AM TO PM BEAUTY
Sylvie Loday, Co-founder of EX-NIHILO and perfume expert, talks us through her beauty routine Talk us through your morning routine. When I first wake up, I jump straight into the shower to feel energized, put on my daily morning mask and then look at my phone to catch up on any messages and begin planning for the day. Before I go into work, my Nespresso coffee is a must. I then jump on my scooter and head to the office. How does your evening routine differ? I always try to get some exercise done before dinner. I meet my personal trainer three times a week for an intensive body
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workout and the other day I practise stretching or yoga. Before COVID-19, I used to often go to restaurants for dinner, one of my favourites close to work is ‘The Balagan’. However, since the global crisis started, restaurants have been shut and so I enjoy cooking at home. What are your go-to skincare products? I really enjoy clean beauty products, I use the Vintner’s Daughter, an active treatment essence to activate Vitamin C and hyaluronic acid in my skin. In order to
keep my skin moisturised throughout the day, I use the Augustinus Bader Rich Cream which feels absolutely like heaven. Are you a fan of masks? Yes, every morning I use the Tammy Fender Restorative Radiance Mask, it’s so exquisite and it feels incredible as it goes on to your skin, leaving it dewy, firm and totally hydrated. What’s your approach to makeup? I enjoy makeup as it makes me feel good and it’s where I can experiment, even though I’m not so daring with colours. I like a very
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Clockwise from top left: Iced Out highlighter Dhs178 Anastasia Beverly Hills; Active Botanical serum Dhs735 Vintner’s Daughter available at Revolve.com; Honoré Delights Eau de Parfum Dhs1,337 for 100ml EX NIHILO available on ounass.ae; Restorative Radiance Masque Dhs863 for 114g Tammy Fender; Shine Serum Dhs145 for 30ml Sachajuan available on faces.com; The Rich Cream Dhs1,099 for 50ml Augustinus Bader
natural summer glow for a dewy look, for instance the Iced Out Highlighter by Anastasia Beverley Hills which provides an illuminating radiance. What can always be found in your makeup bag? Besides a perfume and a hand sanitizer, I would say a mascara for sure. Just adding a little goes a long way. Which fragrances are your current favourites? That’s a tough question, but I would have to say Honoré Delights. It is our latest gourmand creation and al-
though you would expect it to be a heavy ‘Pastry’ kind of scent, in reality, it’s a blooming, warm and reassuring perfume. How do you choose your evening fragrance? I would say it varies depending on the weather. If it’s sunny, I want something airy like Fleur Narcotique and if it’s cold then something warm such as Gold Immortals, but I’m usually trying to figure out different proposals of upcoming creations. So, I use my time to try them on and see how different people react to it, it’s quite fun.
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Talk us through your hair routine. It just depends on my wardrobe of the day really, I will have it tied up in a bun and another day I’ll have it down in a wavy texture. What is the most unusual item in your makeup bag? The most unusual item I would say are the different sample creations that I carry inside my bag. When we develop a new scent, I like to have them on me. I’ll take one out to try, depending on the setting I’m in and begin to analyze it even more and see what I think about that creation.
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A Rich History Having reached its 60-year milestone, fragrance powerhouse Diptyque discusses their incredible brand story and exclusive new fragrance launch for the Middle East Diptyque has such a rich history of over 60 years. How has the brand evolved? Diptyque’s adventure starts with a story of love and friendship that lasted 40 years between Christiane Gautrot, a graduate of the Ecole des Arts Decoratifs, Yves Coueslant, a graduate of the Ecole du Louvre and Desmond Knox-Leet, a painter from the Ecole des Beaux-Arts – three
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transdisciplinary creatives. They decided to create a place where they would only sell what they liked. As “merchants of nothing” they hunted, found, decorated and diverted everything that inspired them. Their chic bazaar opened in 1961 at 34 Boulevard Saint Germain in Paris, they presented a collection of surprising and unique items like magical
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
lanterns, precious toys, homemade treasures like printed fabrics and Diptyque’s very first scented candles Aubépine (Hawthon), Thé (Tea), Cannelle (Cinnamon) in 1963. The brand’s creations have never been driven by the market or fashion trends, but rather created to arouse the imagination. They only exist out of the desire to share an emotion, a memory, an inspiration, initiate stories and unleash the imagination. No compromises have ever been made when it comes to the quality, the ingredients or the raw materials sourced, that are always the finest used to create our products: the olfactory experience is all that matters. The years go by and our spirit remains the same: inventive, free, amazed and collaborative to bring enchantment and inspiration. The fragrance market is broad – how do you stay relevant? What is important is to stay true to yourself, to your values while evolving, innovating. You have to know how to grow without losing your soul and always remaining free to create. We could say that we have a motto at Diptyque or a belief that imagination gives people wings. As long as our fragrances will arouse this state of mind and the world will love to dream and escape, we will continue to create. In terms of fragrance, what does Diptyque represent? Free and fertile, Diptyque shares its creations and its look on the world amongst its community, and everyone that follows the Maison. Artistic, the Maison invites everyone to imagine their worlds, to imagine themselves, to free their wandering imagination, to always be delighted and inspired. The brand speaks to everyone, curious men and women, open-minded and interested in a new approach of the world of fragrance for themselves and for their home. Our client are looking for quality of course but mostly creativity. Has the brand pivoted or changed over the last year since the pandemic? The niche fragrance universe has exploded in recent years because everyone desires to find a fragrance that speaks specifically to them, that evokes what they want to reveal about themselves. But it is also a search for more singular compositions, even sometimes disruptive. The pandemic has reinforced everyone’s needs to create an intimate, warm interior, we could even say protective. It is undeniable that home fragrances still have a bright future ahead. The different fragrance rituals instill moments of happiness that re-enchant everyday life. Diptyque bring something that people will not find anywhere else. What they look for above all else is the richness of the range of scents, the originality of the fragrances, products with a strong personality, as well as innovative products, especially for home and products with a personal and emotional approach.
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Tell us about the exclusive launch for the Middle East? At Diptyque we have a saying, “Perfume is an art and art is a journey.” Indeed, travel has always been at the heart of creativity at Diptyque. The Maison’s three founders travelled the world. From 1961, as they were establishing their store at 34 boulevard Saint-Germain, Yves Coueslant, Desmond Knox-Leet and Christiane Gautrot made their way to the Middle East. Theirs was a road trip by car, by coach and on horseback through the many landscapes of the region, at the time untouched by tourism. From Damascus, the city of jasmine, to Trabzon, via Palmyra, Aleppo or Baalbek, in search of scents, colours and wonders, they discovered a land of rich olfactory facets. Today, for its 60th birthday, Diptyque celebrates this same borderless territory with the launch of Eau Rihla, a new eau de parfum. The name Eau Rihla is an invitation to travel. It was inspired by Ibn Battuta, a Berber born in the 14th century – a great explorer who travelled nearly 120,000 kilometres during his lifetime. His memories are gathered in a book titled Rihla. By extension, rihla now refers to a genre of Arabic literature: travel narratives. This, once again, calls to mind Diptyque’s roots, as Desmond KnoxLeet used to fill his leather notebooks with notes and sketches to preserve the memories of his past adventures. Eau Rihla is thus a name that resonates as an invitation to travel along the routes of the Middle East. This olfactory journey, through memories gleaned along the routes of the Middle East, lies at the heart of the inspiration for the creation of Eau Rihla. The new eau de parfum is the olfactory recounting of a long journey where every scent encountered leaves its mark. Leather, inspired by Desmond’s notebooks or by travel trunks, plays a major role in the composition. Fabrice Pellegrin created exclusively for Diptyque a leather note to be used in Eau Rihla. Obtained from Chinese cedarwood, it is a natural ingredient with a leathery scent. Named “cedrocuir”, it is a “vegetal” leather with velvety and sensual facets. How would you say the GCC region is different from others in terms of fragrance? The Middle East market has grown to become a reference in the industry of fragrance, and even a vitrine, inspiring the world with their taste and take on niche perfumery. At Diptyque, we have always remained close to the Middle Eastern fragrance culture, since our founders were as well always very much connected to that side of the world. Their appreciation of the GCC region led them to create some of the world’s top-selling fragrances such as Tam Dao, Oud Paolo or Volutes to name but a few. The GCC region always amazed us with their precise knowledge of fragrances, scents and ingredi-
ents. They can easily connect and accept to be transported where the fragrance takes them. For there aren’t any limitations when it comes to the power of fragrances and what it can trigger in terms of inspirations. This market has a deep understanding of the world of fragrance and its subtlety, and it is very inspiring to watch. Creating Eau Rihla – our new exclusive fragrance for the Middle East – is naturally a result of the connection we always want to keep nurturing with the Middle East. Which of Diptyque’s fragrance consistently drive sales? Do Son, Tempo, Oud Paolo, Fleur de Peau, Eau Duelle and Eau Capitale are particularly appreciated in the Middle East region. What is your goal for Diptyque this year? Dip-
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tyque’s 60th anniversary in 2021 is the opportunity to celebrate, all through the year, that which has driven the Maison since its creation, that which symbolises the Diptyque spirit and the appropriate moment to bring to life five themes that are particularly dear to the Maison – a passion for graphic design, which was the first highlight of the year; actually, the encounter as a catalyst for creativity; nature, particularly in the Mediterranean, as a source of inspiration – to be revealed this summer; travel as an entryway into the cultures of the world; and finally curiosity, which is not a fault but something to be treasured. What do you envision for the future of Diptyque? We envision and hope to continue attracting people from around the world, and look forward to continue creating with passion. This is, for us, the most important. But in order to create, we also need to give it meaning and offer a product that takes into account the evolution of the world by becoming more and more eco-responsible. At Diptyque, more than ever, we are very sensitive to the subject of sustainability which is of course at the heart of creation for many years.
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WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
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Scented Spaces F E AT U R E
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Baies/Berries Candle 300g
FAMILY: Fruity The candle’s flame is enclosed in a coloured hand-blown glass container. The irresistible freshness of a bouquet of roses, sweetened with blackcurrant leaves. Dhs403 Diptyque
Feu De Bois/Wood Fire Candle 300g
FAMILY: Woody The candle flame is enclosed in a coloured hand-blown glass container. Recalls the crackling of an open fire. Warm and familiar during the winter days. Dhs403 Diptyque
34 Boulevard Saint Germain Interior & Exterior Candle 1,5kg
FAMILY: Herbal This scented candle with five wicks is entirely handmade by a renowned porcelain maker, it captures the scent of the historic store at 34 Boulevard Saint Germain. Dhs1,457 Diptyque available at NET-A-PORTER
Ambre/Amber Candle 300g
FAMILY: Woody The candle’s flame is enclosed in a colourful hand-blown glass container. A warm and elegant procession of woods, vetiver and patchouli, enhanced with radiant aniseed, insolent spices, mysterious incense, cistus and Tonka bean. Dhs403 Diptyque
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Feu De Bois/Wood Fire Interior & Exterior Candle 1,5kg
FAMILY: Woody This scented candle with five wicks contained in an earthenware pot entirely handmade by a renowned porcelain maker evokes the crackling of an open fire. Dhs1,054 Diptyque available at NET-A-PORTER
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The Chemistry of Fragrance Dan Terry, Founder of Oo La Lab in Alserkal Avenue, shares how this bespoke olfactory experience was born WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
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Can you talk us through your career? I’ve always had a sensitivity towards the senses and the power of human experience. However, my calling was to eventually tell beautiful stories. Discovered over fifteen years ago when I was living in Australia, I uncovered my potential through this immersive storytelling ability that fragrances imbued. I subsequently lived in Hong Kong and then Singapore, which helped to develop my personal taste further which has also matured to include an Asian sensibility. As a business owner I have been involved in many roles over the years which include brand consulting, fragrance evaluation, product design and hands-on production. Overall, designing perfumes is a mix of art and time, which I have more of these days that I dedicate to the practice. While for the most of it, I’m self-taught, I have learned from my partners and perfumer colleagues over the years to refine my approach. Through Oo La Lab and other brands inside our portfolio, we have imagined a newly evolved fragrance industry catering to empowered and sensorial consumers. What inspired you to allow clients to create bespoke fragrances for themselves? With a background in designing fragrances for global brands, I also had an understanding of the little olfactory education there is out there for the general public. In a world where mass marketing leads us to function in categories of relative sameness, I understood how empowering
it could be to provide this, therefore allowing people to distinguish for themselves what their own preferences are. Hence, designing a fragrance for oneself is the ultimate journey into who we are as individuals, almost like a personal theme song that expresses the essence of our memories and emotions. What has been the biggest challenge since launching and how did you overcome it? We want to empower individual expression, which is great but can be challenging when everyone around is so different. I don’t think we necessarily want to overcome this but we have turned to technology and a newly created website to help us to cater to the long tail of perfume expression and built confidence in our community to experiment and discover. What is your personal favourite scent and which memories does it evoke? Such a tough ques-
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tion! I would say wild jasmine, woodfires and fresh lawn mower gas rate highly. They take me back to my childhood, to the great outdoors and to the freedom of lazy summer days. Was sustainability set to be at the centre of the brand’s DNA? As a highly-creative brand, we wanted to accurately reflect and comment on the world around us. I wasn’t in favour of greenwashing or using marketing jargon to promote our products. Over time, I’ve realised that the planet is in a dire state and each and every one of us has a role to play in fixing our mostly self-inflicted problems. As opposed to being a passive creative interpretation of the world, we as designers have a duty to imagine a better world. Whilst we only have ever used sustainable raw materials, we are looking at ways to reduce our footprint with regards to packaging and shipping. We are
currently prototyping a product shell made completely out of mushroom. What innovations do you see in the world of perfumery? The commonly quoted innovations are in better harvest and extraction methodologies and molecular design. Nowadays, Artificial Intelligence (AI) is being used to write fragrance formulas. My interest in specific is in the shift in lifestyle and consumer habits towards perfumery. I resonate with the transparency now demanded on the manufacturing process as well as the desire for personalization and localisation. How are the sensorial workshops centered around the customer’s preferences? We are all about the customer, our starting point is the ‘Oo Fragrance Table’ where around 27 ingredients are displayed – all in black and white so as not to trick or persuade the
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eye with mental shortcuts like colour or images. This way we reset the learning process which is not based purely on whether the olfactive character of the ingredient is attractive to the customer or not – rather than say the depiction of an exotic flower or spice. Which notes are the most popular at Oo La Lab? Wood, amber, oud, leather and violet are a few of the most popular notes here in Dubai. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your earliest memory of fragrance? Being born in Africa, the first childhood home I had was alongside a swimming pool with a round grass-roofed changing room. Stepping inside, it was like a sensorial time chamber of dried thatch and musty cold stone, punctuated with Copperstone sunscreen and the sweet rubber of an inflatable tyre tube. Oh, to only be there again!
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Signature Scent C O M P I L E D BY: O L I V I A M O R R I S
Ideal notes for incredible women
HANEEN ODEH
MIRIAM ABADI
@haneenodeh @snob.ae
@miriam_abadi
Owner of Snob Salon
What is your earliest memory of fragrance? I vividly remember the bottle of Estée Lauder’s White Linen back then at my parent’s house. I thought the bottle was so luxurious and the scent very sophisticated and grown up. Not age appropriate at that point but I loved it. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? I don’t think I have one specific signature scent. I have a fragrance “wardrobe” and use scents as a way to reflect my mood or match my outfit of the day. But two I keep reaching for are Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille and Byredo Oud Immortal.
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Founder of Tru & Beyond
What is your earliest memory of fragrance? My earliest memory with fragrance is the flacon of Chanel No.5 that belonged to my mum. Whenever I could, I would always sneak into her bedroom and dab the scents on my wrists and behind my ears as she told me. Growing up, up until today this iconic scent is still part of my perfume collection. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? There are two scents I’m really obsessed with and
both are by Henry Jacques. Firstly, pure gardenia by Henry Jacques. It’s a very floral, sweet and intense scent. It combines gardenia, peach and jasmine sambac and it is extremely intense. I could wear this scent throughout the entire year. Another brilliant creation – more for the winter months – by Henry Jacques is their blue vanilla scent. It’s a mysterious, intense and warm scent that I love to wear on occasions during the colder months.
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HAYA JARRAR Founder of Romani @hayajarrar
ZAHRA LYLA KHALIL
Founder & Creative Director at The Other Agency @zahralyla What is your earliest memory of fragrance? My earliest memory of fragrance is the scent of jasmine from my grandmother’s garden. She used to pick them and place them in bowls all around her house. My mother has the same habit so jasmine has a very dear place in my heart. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? My signature scent is sweet and fruity and less floral which is funny cause I grew up with jasmines. For the longest time, 15 years or so, my signature fragrance was Escada’s Magnetism but unfortunately, it’s been discontinued. I now go for anything from Tom Ford’s Bitter Peach to Maison Christian Dior’s Belle de Jour.
OUMAYMA ELBOUMESHOULI Entrepreneur & Content Creator
@oumaymaboumeshouli What is your earliest memory of fragrance? When I was sneaking into my auntie’s bathroom and saw a very old vintage bottle of Chanel No5. That fragrance has so much class and style. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? Musk. I have an emotional memory of musk. It reminds me of my father who passed away oneand-a-half years ago. It was his favourite ingredient and when he was lying peacefully in his coffin, I could smell it all over his body. Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musk is my current favourite.
What is your earliest memory of fragrance? My earliest memory of fragrance is my mother wearing the perfume Poison by Dior. I remember falling in love with the scent and wishing I could wear it but I was way too young. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? My signature fragrance is Bal d’Afrique by Byredo.
BARKHA SHEWAKRAMANI Founder of Barkha Beauty @barkhabeauty What is your earliest memory of fragrance?My earliest memory of fragrance is Angel by Thierry Mugler which my mother would spray all over herself and the room. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? I’ve been wearing Rouge 540 by Bacarrat since it came out few years ago and that has become my signature scent to the point where my friend’s kids even recognize it.
SYLVIE LODAY
Co-founder of EX NIHILO Paris
MOUNA ABBASSY
@exnihiloparis
Founder of Izil Beauty @izilbeauty
What is your earliest memory of fragrance? My earliest memory of a fragrance is the oud scent as it is customary to use it as incense in the house for special occasions in Morocco like during Eid or when you have guests. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? Elie Saab is my favourite.
FATHIYA AL MARZOOQI
What is your earliest memory of fragrance? My olfactory memories are a true melting pot, reflecting my composite culture: Brittany’s ocean and salty tides with America’s big cities, pancakes and maple syrup. So any milky notes and cinnamon notes remind me of my first memories in America. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? I love oriental scents! You’ll most likely find me wearing Atlas Fever and the newest oriental creation Gold Immortals.
Co-founder of Alchimie
SARA TAMIMI
@alchimiefragrances What is your earliest memory of fragrance? One of my earliest memories of the fragrance that brings so much nostalgia is growing up with my family and waking up to the rich smell of oud floating around the house on a beautiful Friday. The fragrance reminds me of wholesome memories with my family during the weekends and smelling the scent today always takes me back to happier times.
This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? I definitely have a few favourite scents that change with the season. The summer calls for L’abeille Sucrée and L’abeille Ambrée which are lighter scents on the sweeter side that instantly brighten my mood during the season. As the season shifts to winter, my absolute favourite scent to put on is L’abeille Epicée which is a woody, musky and mysterious scent that lingers all day.
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Founder of Sara Tamimi @saratamimiofficial What is your earliest memory of fragrance? Of course, my mum, her scent is always so beautiful, it gives me the feeling of comfort and security. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? Noor perfume – Noor 12 is my go-to scent. It’s a suitable scent for throughout the day and my favourite part about this perfume is its top notes of bergamot and nutmeg.
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
The Fragrance Connoisseur
Launched by Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah 10 years ago in memory of his grandmother, The Fragrance Kitchen is a brand that champions innovation in the fragrance realm Can you talk us through your career? I was an entrepreneur from a very young age, founding Villa Moda – one of the region’s most iconic department stores while I was in my twenties, bringing high-end fashion brands to the region including Prada, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and many more. Then I went on to create The Fragrance Kitchen. What inspired you to start your own fragrance brand? I learned about the art of blending from my grandmother when I was a teenager. Once I had the talent, I collaborated with Tom Ford, creating the Arabian Wood blend for his collection. After the success of Arabian Wood, I decided to start my own business – The Fragrance Kitchen (TFK). This is the first fragrance innovation that I have spearheaded. How has your brand evolved since it launched in 2011? TFK is known for its amazing, crazy events which we did twice in New York and London. The Fragrance Kitchen has over 70 scents which are sold in Europe, USA, Af-
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rica, Russia and the Middle East, we have also reached Mexico. As a fragrance brand we also come in and out with different sorts of amazing projects which include limited edition TFK chocolates in the shape of perfume bottles; a special edition TFK fragrance named ‘I See U’ with a quote on the bottle from Khalil Gebran printed in braille on the front; special edition card game fragrances and more. We have many exciting projects coming up, so stay tuned! In terms of fragrance, what does The Fragrance Kitchen represent? TFK represents ‘East meets West’. How would you say the GCC region is different from others in terms of fragrance? We don’t differentiate between male or female scents in the GCC. Rose, for example, is universally loved. Today, there are masculine and feminine realms, but both genders are free to play in either. What are your three favourite notes in fragrance? Taif Rose, Oud and Bergamot.
Who would you say are your mentors in life? My uncle, the late Prince of Kuwait, Sheikh Jaber Ahmed Al-Sabah. How do you want to inspire others? Stay simple and comfortable, but also take risks. What hurdles have you experienced throughout your career? Everyone experiences hurdles and bumps along the road, but I overcome them with the support of my family and friends. On the opposite end of the spectrum, what have been the milestones? Through my social media platforms, I have managed to raise awareness for many different causes, visiting many places including war-torn countries and orphanages in need. To be able to visit homes from different backgrounds who share their stories with me over a cup of tea is a milestone for me. This is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? TFK Arab Spring is our signature and it is completely different to any other fragrance in the market.
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Emirates Woman dives into the rich history of the highly-coveted fragrance, which carries such strong significance throughout the Arab region WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Oud – or oudh – is one of the most expensive raw fragrance ingredients in the world. Known in English as ‘agarwood’, the value of a kilo of oud can be just as expensive as a kilo of gold, sometimes even more. With an instantly recognizable woody scent, the fragrance ingredient originates from the bark of trees which are only found in South East Asia. It’s a scent which has become synonymous with the Middle East over thousands of years and can be traced back to the time of Prophet Muhammad (P.B.U.H). “He started the tradition of fumigating oneself with oud – a practice that is followed by Muslims today,” Fathiya Al Marzooqi, the co-founder of Alchimie tells Emirates Woman. “The Prophet Muhammad (P.B.U.H) referred to oud as an item found in Paradise.” It’s an inherent part of life in the Middle East and a part of Arab culture in general. Today, it’s used as a traditional aromatic and perfume in many forms: from high-grade wood chips burnt to welcome guests into one’s home, to perfuming garments and also perfuming the household with a rich and opulent fragrance. To delve deep into the history of oud in the region and the significance it has, Emirates Woman sat down with two experts – Fathiya Al Marzooqi, the co-founder of Alchimie and Salim Kalsekar, Managing Director of Rasasi Perfumes. Salim Kalsekar, Managing Director of Rasasi Perfumes What are the origins of oud in the Arab region? Oud follows a long tradition and is used for a variety of purposes from medicinal, to aromatherapy, to spiritual and in perfumery, while also being synonymous with luxury, exclusivity and intimacy. Known in English as agarwood, the first recorded use of oud dates back to at least 1400 B.C.E. and has continued throughout human history with numerous references being made in many religious texts, poetry and pharmacopoeia. Oud is sold in many forms from its purest
Oud – An Expert Guide F E AT U R E
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(wood chips and pieces), to an oil-dhanal oud (both pure and blended together with other fragrances). Even its derivative products which are usually small pieces of oud left over after distillation – oud moattar and its dust dakhoon or bukhoor is used as incense either alone or combined with other fragrant ingredients. Rasasi Perfumes, one of the foremost fragrance houses in the Middle East offers customers a wide range of agarwood and dhanal oud products, from popular to rare and coveted varieties. Rasasi has built a reputation for offering authentic agarwood and dhanal oud products ensuring that the customer pays for the exact worth of the product. The pure extract from the agarwood tree also known as Dhan Al Oudh is one of the most coveted oriental perfumes, highly desired for its complex scent that unfolds over a course of many hours imparting a lasting fragrance trail that is mysterious, intoxicating and exotic, invoking a sense of magic and mystique. What is the history of oud in the Middle East? Trade in agarwood and its products can be dated back to ancient times with some texts even reporting that traders used the famous Silk Route to transport agarwood from China to the Middle East via India. Traditionally, oud came from South and Southeast Asia (India, Bangladesh, China, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia and Vietnam), and it was consumed by markets primarily in Japan and the Middle East (Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and the United Arab Emirates). Presently, however, there has been an expansion both in supply centres (including Australia and Sri Lanka) and in demand (largely throughout Western Europe). Arabian perfumes have long been alluring the world with their distinct fragrances and are said to be synonymous with ancient heritage, tradition as well as fine luxury. Often referred to as black gold, the high price of oud is considered an indicator of its value as a precious and luxurious product, and the quality of the aroma can be viewed as an indication of status and prestige. Oud, also known as the ‘wood of the gods’, has been an important part of religious rituals believed to facilitate a connection between man and the divine. Due to its calming effect agarwood is also burnt during meditation. It has been used throughout history, either in the form of incense or fragrance oil for personal grooming, applied on the hair, behind the ears, neck and clothes prior to prayers and social gathering. The burning of agarwood is also considered an essential customary tradition within the Arab world and particularly in the Middle East, interwoven
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into the lives of Khaleejis and those within the Arab region from a young age. The fragrance rituals are so intrinsic to the culture that many expats living and growing up in the Middle East have adopted the tradition of scenting their homes by burning oud, oud moattar (oud chips soaked in oils) and bukhoor (oud dust soaked in fragrant oils). Which are the most significant moments throughout the history of oud? With agarwood having numerous uses from medicinal to perfuming one’s home and garments, to burning incense chips in honour of visiting guests, there are several significant mentions of the uses of oud throughout history in the Arabian region as well as other parts of the world. One of the first references to oud can be found within the Hebrew bible among descriptions of perfumes used by a bride prior to a wedding ceremony. From the Islamic hadiths there are descriptions that the Prophets liked to use perfumes and often used oud to perfume their garments, while from the narratives of the famous Arab explorer Ibn Battuta, there are descriptions of the extensive use of perfumes by the Arab people in the 13th century. In Cyprus in the 14th Century C.E., agarwood
determining the price, it adds so much to fragrance. Known to come from the wood of the Southeast Asian agar (Aquilaria) tree; when the wood of the tree becomes infected with a particular type of mould, the tree reacts by producing a dark, scented resin, often referred to as liquid gold. The older the tree from which the resin is extracted, the more expensive the product as it sometimes takes hundreds of years for the wood to mature and produce a resin that is rich in scent and of a high quality. When used within a perfume composition, oud is most often used as a middle or base note. As base notes typically form the foundation of a fragrance, oud adds a sense of richness and opulence to the perfume with the scent lingering on the skin long after the fragrance of the other ingredients dissipate and disappear. What are the ideal notes to pair with oud? Oud is highly versatile as a perfumery ingredient and goes well with a variety of olfactory profiles including the likes of sandalwood, musk, rose, geranium and carnation to name a few. Rasasi has always been at the forefront of product innovation and has infused a modern appeal to classical oriental perfumery. In your fragrances, what significance does it
also one of the reasons why the Arab region developed trade routes in ancient times. What is the history of oud in the Middle East? Oud holds a special place in Gulf Arab traditions. Walk into any Gulf home, especially during the Eid holidays, and one is welcomed with the scent of burning oud throughout the house, and the oil-based oud that adorns men’s traditional thoub dress and females’ abayas. Dubai is the oud capital of the world – the material is bought and sold here on a huge scale. There are multiple vendors and perfumers here who sell this prized scent. Oud is more than just a scent – it’s a whole culture and there’s no place that appreciates oud like the UAE. Which are the most significant moments throughout the history of oud? Oud, wellknown to the human nose for its expensive yet quality notes, has been without a doubt enjoyed as a unique luxury in the region for thousands of years. Carrying unique properties, oud has been traditionally used in Mosques where the incense chips are burned, letting out strong scents that can be easily recognized from afar. Moreover, coming in various forms including wood chips, oils and perfumes, oud represents status for many
was primarily used to treat a variety of medical conditions of the ear, eye, skin, bones and much more. In Al-Andalus (Muslin Spain between 900-1500 C.E.), local perfumers utilized aromatic substances of both Eastern and Western origin with agarwood being one of the top five primary ingredients used. The long historical use of agarwood has been associated with cultures where aromatics are deeply ingrained in cultural experiences, such as the Middle East, India, China, and Japan. Among the many available plantbased aromatics, agarwood has always been among the most coveted and multi-functional – used as incense, as perfume oil, in perfumery as an ingredient, source of derivative fragrant products and medical preparations. Historically, agarwood was also eaten for medicinal purposes as well as prepared as powder and applied to both skin and clothes. The popularity of agarwood has been consistent throughout history and continues to remain in high demand even today. What does it add to fragrance? As one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world with the quality, rarity, place of origin and nature of the wood all playing a part in
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hold? Rasasi perfumes add the ingredient of oud to a variety of their fragrances as it brings an oriental twist adding a touch of opulence and luxury to the fragrance. Oriental fragrances are famous across the world for their aura of mystery and opulence. Oud lends the famous fragrant trail to a scent – a lingering scent that can be smelt from a distance and is full of exotic mystique. Dhan Al Oud is a symbol of the famed oriental perfume trail and is used as a base on which various perfumes are layered to create a signature scent that is unique as the individual. This process is called layering. Fathiya Al Marzooqi, the co-founder of Alchimie What are the origins of oud in the Arab region? Commonly known as ‘black gold’, a kilo of oud can be as expensive as a kilo of gold, sometimes, even more, depending on the rarity of the tree it was cut from. The Arab region can trace back their roots to the time of Prophet Muhammad (P.B.U.H), who started the tradition of fumigating oneself with oud – a practice that is followed by Muslims today. The Prophet Muhammad (P.B.U.H) referred to oud as an item found in Paradise. Oud is
families in the Middle East, leaving a mark with the rich fragrance wherever they go. They hold great significance as it is used by families in every Arab home, as well as gifting choices for clients, colleagues and relatives. What does it add to fragrance? Oud gives its wearers a distinct personality. No one note of oud is the same which is why it’s used as a base note with other scents to create something that’s timeless but also powerful. We strongly believe that oud is very classy but also helps with making the right impression. What are the ideal notes to pair with oud? This is purely subjective but I’m partial to jasmine and musky scents – especially if they are earthy. In your fragrances what significance does it hold? I’ve grown up with having bakhoor in my home. It’s a mainstay in Emirati homes, bakhoor is synonymous with warmth, richness and Arabian hospitality. Alchimie’s home fragrances and diffusers pay homage to bakhoor without the negative side effects – did you know your lung capacity and breathing gets affected by burning incense at home without a filter? This is why we conceptualized Alchimie and created it.
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“Oud is more than just a scent – it’s a whole culture and there’s no place that appreciates oud like the UAE. ”
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THE FRAGRANCE
What inspired you to launch your fragrance brand? Scents have been intertwined with my life ever since I can remember. Sometimes it was my mother burning perfumed wood chips that left an everlasting effect. Those comforting scent memories would always lead me to use oud oils, at the same time I gravitated towards French luxury perfumer brands. I always wanted to create a scent and persisted to put an active effort in doing so that merged Eastern oil quality and taste with European noses. I also wanted to create something I could spray on that would not stain my clothes, as oilbased scents stain. I wanted my perfumes to be oud based, even though it was an expensive addition, it was important to me to ensure that the perfumes lasted since the cheap perfume sugar-rush-like feeling disappears sometimes minutes later. It has taken me three years to create this perfume alongside the packaging because it is my labour of love in creating a beautiful thing. I am proud to call it my own, and
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I hope women and men feel reinvigorated when they use my scents. Can you talk us through your creativity process? Creativity is selection. Selecting what makes your heart sing, what provokes the sweet memories, what calms your mind and what refreshes and energizes you. Perfumes push the buttons of the mind and emotions. So, why not create a magnificent melody of feelings in this adventure of discovery? To you, what makes this region stand out in terms of the fragrance industry? This region is the luxury shopping destination of the world and luxury doesn’t know an ethnicity. This region is influenced by the Arabs and luxury lifestyle with perfumes, bags and shoes. These are not compromisable and are the first stepping stone to the journey. It is the first thing you buy in an airport when you think of a souvenir returning from Dubai, the warm, rich fragrance is the captured feeling of travelling, enjoying your life, adrenaline rush, the exoticism and the beautiful scent. What has your journey as an entrepreneur involved? After completing a Master’s degree in Architecture & Design followed by a Masters in Project Management, shortly after my entrepreneurship journey started with a small flower shop in Zahra hospital in Dubai. I didn’t plan for this or anticipate I was going to kick off my career with it. Although it wasn’t what I had planned for, somehow the idea of designing coupled with my love for nature and gardening led me to think of creating beautiful pieces for people in most need of the simplest form of demonstrating affection and care. I later moved on to creating a fashion line that catered to women of the region, where I put together pieces that merged designs that were both traditional and modern.
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Her Highness Sheikha Hend Al Qassemi is a true entrepreneur. Having recently entered the realm of fragrance, she knows exactly what works in the region and has infused her expertise of the Middle East with European elements to create a luxurious perfume brand, Perfumes by Hend
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ENTREPRENEUR From there I put my love for writing into Velvet, a luxury lifestyle magazine that came about in 2009. My most recent project is a restaurant that newly launched this March in Downtown Dubai, called Heart in a Box. I’m also a Professor at the American University of Dubai teaching a course on social innovation and entrepreneurship. As a fragrance expert, what is your advice for someone selecting a fragrance? A scent is a silent, unspoken language between you and the person you are with. Perfume is a deeper sense of self exploration. It is an identity. A captured dream that you wear every day reminding you and those around you of who you are, what you are and what you want. We wear perfume to freshen up when we first wake up, to live in our daily ritual of self-love, to arouse our feelings of sexuality, of our confidence of who we are and allow us to exude the power we are brimming with. So, I would say you need to feel what speaks to you and brings you to a state of elation. Perfumes are different from oil-based scents, but they say the best use of perfume is when you apply it on a natural fabric. However, if you wear it on your skin you should wear it on your wrist and your pulse areas, which are your neck think working around the world gives you the ability to comuand chest. Some people back in the day used nicate with a wide range of people. I think when you’ve been exto put perfume on a handkerchief and place posed to many business cultures and people nothing scares you it in their bag, and wipe their hands with it, anymore, you become more adaptable and flexible. That in itself so the perfume would stay on their hand and is a gift. Ink on paper doesn’t teach you that, you have to dig the whenever they were arriving, everyone could ground with your nails; it’s blood sweat and tears and not my smell the evident scent. degrees that got me where I am today. Can you talk us through the career hurdles How do aim to inspire others and where do you get your inspiyou’ve experienced? My career hurdles didn’t ration from? We all need inspiration, motivation, and someone or people to carry us through the journey of life at some feel like hurdles, I chose to live my life like a point or another. I derived my greatest inspiration from my river; whenever I reached a rock on the road, grandmother who only taught herself how to read and write I either went around or over it but I acclimawhen I was 10-years-old. That always stuck with me that tize myself. I don’t believe we should survive, you are never too old to achieve what you put your mind to, rather we should thrive. When you go above that hard work and determination crowned with the best inthe wave, it means you’ve outdone yourself. tentions lead you to the path you want paved on your way to I’m very proud of my perfume and I’m not destiny. And I hope to carry on my grandmother’s legacy to ashamed of my accomplishments. A lot of inspire others the same way she inspired me. people say that I have enough with whatever I’ve done. But I think God gave us this unsaThis is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – what is your signature scent? It all tiable ambition to keep going on. depends on the mood, if I’m going for a dinner, I will wear the red fragrance which is the Oud Rose. When I go to a meeting, I like What have been the key career milestones to to wear my blue scent because I feel powerful and confident. This date? I used to work with my family and also scent is authoritative, it’s like an instant energy boost for me, it worked in Qatar in investments, I also did demands respect. If I’m relaxing, I wear my green perfume. some work in Malaysia, India, and China. I
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Diffuse
Give your home a signature scent WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Clockwise from top left: Cowshed RELAX Diffuser 100ml Dhs150 available at lookfantastic.ae; L’Objet Porcelain Diffuser Set – Cote Maquis 235ml Dhs886 available at Amara; Jo Malone London Lime Basil & Mandarin Diffuser 165ml Dhs400 available at sephora.ae; Locherber Milano Habana Tobacco Reed Diffuser 1000ml Dhs694 available at Amara; Acqua Di Parma Luce Di Colonia Diffuser 500ml Dhs695 available at bloomingdales.ae; L’Occitane Home Perfume Diffuser Dhs119
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a chat with our tea artists. Those events were super popular and we hope to be able to start them again soon. Another challenge was certainly the sudden loss of revenue at the beginning of the pandemic. Fortunately, we have other revenue channels apart from hospitality and airlines, such as corporate gifting and direct retail which allowed us to continue our business and expand our team further. How has the brand grown and which platform has supported that growth the most? We’ve grown organically through word of mouth marketing and perseverance. In the first 3 years, it was Markus and I that visited clients, met the chefs, the baristas and F&B managers. We built connections with our clients and provided them the products and services they needed. We started our business by supplying teas to cafes and restaurants, then government offices and later luxury hotels. We grew serving from 40 business clients in 2014 to over 400 clients in 2021, most of it via recommendations. There wasn’t a platform that accelerated our growth, as AVANTCHA was only sold via our own website, and only a few months ago, we’ve extended our offering via selected retailers like Tavola and Crate & Barrel. A few factors that made a considerable push include a pop-up store in The Dubai Mall, our Tea Bar in Al Quoz which was opened back in 2019, and developing a collection of Ramadan gifts for Cartier in 2020 which went into the homes of affluent families in the UAE and KSA. How do you constantly innovate with new blends? Inspiration is everywhere. At times, clients commission us to develop blends inspired by perfumes. Recently we developed 3 rose tea blends – a fresh rose, a fruity rose and smoky rose. Other times, it’s an experience, a feeling that is translated into flavour. We, humans, perceive flavour as an emotional record of the past, every time we taste something we are looking for an analogy of the things we know. For this reason, understanding cultural preferences play a huge role into blends creations, blending for the central European market is very different to blending for Middle East or Asia. What are the key preferences in terms of blends across the GCC? We are lucky to have access to such a diverse population here in GCC. Every culture group has its tradition, but preferences are very wide. We’ve noticed an increased overcome them? Challenges are the main interest in white teas and botanicals in the reason for us to advance, to innovate and recent year. As a base rule, we have 2 cusbecome more efficient. ∙ An ongoing challenge for us is to develop tomer types: sustainable packaging, as it is always in ∙ The purists – the ones loving single oriconflict with product shelf life and design. gin and rare teas: most loved teas are the We have a research team who is constantly Organic Japanese Gyokuro, the White experimenting with the latest degradable Bud Silver Needle & the Organic Matcha packing materials to make sure we are alCeremonial Grade. ∙ The avant-gardes – the ones loving ways on top of new packing technologies. bright and more experimental teas and ∙ When we launched AVANTCHA, the marbotanical blends: most popular being the ket for specialty teas was almost non-exisRush Hour Berry, the Rose White and tent in the region. It was a challenge to get Oriental Moments. people to try unusual and unknown teas, and convince them to pay a premium price Which blends consistently drive sales? Certag for them. We launched a series of free tea emonial Matcha grades, Rose White, Rush events, anyone could come in, taste and have Hour Berry and all types of Mint.
A Fragrant Blend What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? MR: I wake up between 5:00-5:30 and have a glass of hot water. While my coffee is brewing (yes, I do have a coffee a day) I get dressed, pick my podcast or audiobook and go for a 40-minute walk. I then take a shower, have my breakfast while reviewing my daily tasks and I’m in the office by 8am. MZ: Whenever possible I spend some time on the beach in the morning and then enjoy an espresso on the balcony before starting my WFH routine. In the morning, I usually work from home as I’m talking to our partners in Asia before they close for the day. How would you define the DNA of AVANTCHA? Integrity, design, culture and attention to detail are in AVANTCHA’s DNA. Since our inception in 2014, we personally travelled the world to source the most flavourful and cleanest ingredients to make up our teas and tea blends. We believe in organic and natural farming and we invest a lot to provide organic and sustainable luxury to our customers. When it comes to quality we are total control freaks – from the tea garden to the cup which is under our control. We are obsessed with minimalism and functional design and our main mission is to combine ancient tea culture with a modern tea ceremony. Which have been the largest challenges since launching the brand and how did you
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Co-founders Marina Rabei and Markus Zbinden share their inspiration behind the brand AVANTCHA Tea and how it honed its mission to advance the tea experience
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Tell us about the biodegradable packaging material? We believe luxury must be sustainable. AVANTCHA teabags have always been biodegradable, made from a plantbased material called polylactic acid (PLA) and recently we’ve also made them GMO free. They are made from sugar cane and are 100% industrial compostable in 6 months. These are not made from petroleum and will not leak harmful plasticizers into your cup. As for the teabag sachets itself, we have just launched a new material which considerably reduces the layers of plastic. All our luxury giftboxes are produced in the UAE using FSC certified materials or recycled paper. Talk us through the process of producing fragrant teas? Fragrant tea blends start with a base, typically a large surface or an absorbent leaf. White teas will work with soft, gentle flavours like peach, rose or pear. Green teas will blend well with fruits and some light spices. Black teas are the most versatile, you can add any spice, fruit or
flower, the idea is to contrast flavours or complement them. To intensify the aroma of some blends, we add natural flavours such as bergamot for the ever-popular Earl Grey tea. Flavouring is basically a concentrated essence or oil. At AVANTCHA we work with only natural, they are lighter but taste like the real thing and are produced from real fruits and spices. A couple of years ago, we developed a bespoke blend for Waldorf Astoria DIFC, the task was to create a blend true to the hotel’s rich legacy. While researching, we’ve discovered that you? MR: The scent of chamomile brings Bronx Cocktail, the notorious gin cocktail, back loads of childhood memories, my mum was created at WA New York around 1930. made me chamomile on all occasions, it was We’ve broken down the flavour components the remedy for everything. The aroma of hay of this cocktail and blended it into a tea. present in many white teas, and my fav YunThe result is Bronx Afternoon Excite, a nan Wild Buds, takes me back to my RusSencha green tea, with notes of bitter orsian grandma’s porch after the rain. ange, juniper and vermouth (alcohol free). MZ: Drinking Pu-erh reminds me of the forest in Europe, especially after the rain. PuWhich are main tea plantations you source erh has this rich earthiness and the smell your tea from globally? We source herbs and of the brewed tea reminds me of walking tea leaves from over 40 farms, most promithrough the wet forest in autumn. This type nently from China, Japan, India and Egypt. of tea gave me the inspiration and motivaThis is ‘The Fragrance Issue’ – which spetion to start a tea business. cific scent evokes childhood memories for
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C O M P I L E D BY: O L I V I A M O R R I S
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Below: Fuchun Resort, Hangzhou, China; Blanket Hotel & Spa, Munnar, India; Right: Ceylon Tea Trails, Sri Lanka
Elewana Arusha Coffee Lodge, Tanzania
This resort is hidden amongst one of Tanzania’s largest coffee plantations. Comprising of 30 Plantation Houses that radiate out into the evergreen coffee fields, Arusha Coffee Lodge has been designed around the original landowner’s home that dates back to the early 1900s. For more information visit elewanacollection.com
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Ceylon Tea Trails, Sri Lanka
Former residences of British tea estate managers, this Sri Lankan Resort has now been converted into opulent bungalows which make the Ceylon Tea Trails perched at an altitude of 1250 metres in the Ceylon tea region. When visiting, guests can replace their usual morning coffee routine and immerse themselves in the delicious teas of the region. The central Sri Lankan Ceylon Tea Trails sit on a working tea estate, and use the nearby resource to offer quality brews and tea infused cuisine. For more information visit resplendentceylon.com
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Fuchun Resort, Hangzhou, China
Set in the Chinese countryside, two hours from Shanghai, Fuchun Resort is tea resort which embodies the true meaning of tranquility, peace and refinement. The Hangzhou region is famous for its tea, which the resort regularly pays homage to, and guests can even take part in harvesting of the tea, but only in April and May when it takes place. However, regular tea appreciation sessions take place at the resort all-year round and guests can relax in the resort’s luxury spa, enjoy the walking trails and take part in Chinese calligraphy and painting workshops. For more information visit fuchunresort.com Mayfair Tea Resort, Siliguri, India
This resort is India’s first Boutique Tea Resort which welcomes everyone to “an experience of luxury that is unlike no other”. The structure was built in the 16th century with Tudorstyle architecture and features vintage furnishings, classic centuries-old collectibles, chequered black and white flooring carved with Italian marble. Guests are encouraged to immerse themselves in the history of tea in the region with many different activities available. For more information visit mayfairhotels.com/mayfair-siliguri Blanket Hotel & Spa, Munnar, India
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On a leafy hill station surrounded by tea plantations in Munnar, India, this resort immerses its guests in the lush greenery of the region. With 42 rooms, the hotel encourages its guests to truly switch off and enjoy all that nature has to offer in the region. For more information visit blanketmunnar.com
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Tagine
Indulge in the flavours of Morocco at Tagine, located in the One&Only Royal Mirage Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach. Notable aromas that can be found at this restaurant include scents of cinnamon, saffron, cloves, ginger and nutmeg, making for a fragrant experience in all dishes.
THE HERO DISH
Tangia Marrakchia – braised lamb shanks in an array of spices and garlic Mimi Kakushi
Inspired by the 1920s era in Osaka combined with modern art and Western fashions, Mimi Kakushi fuses a plethora of flavours from Japanese classics to putting their own stamp on traditional dishes.
THE HERO DISH
Wagyu beef tataki with yuzu daikon, spring onion, lime tenkatsu, fresh truffle & truffle ponzu Pad Thai
Immerse yourself in the ‘five tastes of Thailand’ – bitter, salty, spicy, sour and sweet – at Pad Thai located in Jumeirah Al Qasr, with the restaurant serving aromatic traditional dishes from the region.
WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Scalini continuously takes patrons on a sensory journey with its menu and at its venue located in Four Seasons Jumeirah. In particular, the restaurant focuses on truffle, particularly when white truffle – which grows in the forests around Alba in northwest Italy – is in season from September to December.
THE HERO DISH
Tagliolini al Tartufo Nero with parmesan sauce and black truffle
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THE HERO DISH
Gaeng Panang Goong – tiger prawns, creamy red curry sauce, kaffir lime leaves, peanut and red chilli Shanghai ME
Dine at this DIFC restaurant which takes the culinary traditions of East Asia and combines them with a contemporary flair.
THE HERO DISH
Seared Tuna with Coriander & Green Chili Pierchic
Dine waterside at this hotspot and immerse yourself in the flavour-filled aroma of Italy.
THE HERO DISH Gillardeau Oysters
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An exceptional edit of fragrant menus
Scalini
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Fragrant Fusion
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Outstanding Burj Khalifa views combined with a fusion of fragrant ingredients at CÉ LA VI, Executive Chef Howard Ko discusses why this sky-high restaurant is the culinary must visit
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Can you talk us through your career history? I have worked in hospitality my whole life and have never done anything else. I began at 15-years-old washing dishes and making sandwiches and then went to Cordon Bleu in Pasadena, California for baking and pastry. I worked as a pastry chef for a year and then went to The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York City. From then on, I only worked at Michelin Star restaurants for about 14 years. Restaurant Daniel**, Picholine**, DB Bistro Moderne, because I wanted to experience high volume, Melisse Restaurant**, French Laundry*** and Restaurant at Meadowood***. I always believed I was never good enough, I think that’s why I always worked on my craft and worked at great restaurants, rather than looking at a paycheque. On my vacations, if I had any free time, I would stage at restaurants as well, these include; Saison***, Benu***, Atelier Crenn***, Alinea*** and Dabous*. Until this day, I still feel I don’t know enough and push to get better and will always have this need to get better at my craft. Where does your love for food and ingredients come from? I love how food can make you feel. When you get to a certain point in your craft you can make a dish that can invoke emotion. By making something that can bring a person back to their childhood, and intrigue by the way the dish is presented with tableside service. When you have the perfect bite that makes you just want one more during a tasting menu, is when you know you nailed that dish for the guest. What do you love about what you do? I love mentoring young chefs. It’s our responsibility to pass on knowledge and share your philosophy with your cooks to make a lasting impression and to have that legacy, so when it’s their turn to become chefs, they will remember lessons and take that with them forever. I love seeing how they improve and grow as chefs with confidence. I always tell my team that I hope to read about them one day in an article, it would make me very proud because I know they have it in them. I also tell the women in my kitchen the harsh reality that it is a maledominated profession and I encourage and empower them every day. I want to be there for them to let them know they have what it takes to be good as anyone if you put in the work.
What brought you to Dubai? Chef Joseph, CÉ LA VI Group’s Executive Chef, was my friend and roommate when we worked at Restaurant Daniel in 2006 – I was 20-years-old at the time. We were so young back then but always kept in touch. I was an Executive Chef for a hotel and opening restaurants in San Francisco and one day I get a call from Chef Joey and he offered me the position to open CÉ LA VI Dubai. It was a scary thought, literally being on the opposite side of the world but I am so grateful I took the opportunity. I look at food in several different scopes. It’s also have a great supporting cast at CÉ LA not only the flavour combinations but also VI from my GM David Lescarret, Marketing how you treat an ingredient. Manager Hoda Ghavidel, Guest Relations For example, smoking and drying out a Manager Ettiene Du Plessis, Assistant GM leg of lamb for 3 years so you can shave it Will Leekulcharoen who all are great teamlike bonito flakes, or serving a guest a dish of heirloom beans and braised seaweeds in a mates that support me. I think the F&B inroasted turnip broth. Or, serving the piece of dustry here in Dubai is amazing. It is still a lamb that you have spent 3 years perfecting young culinary city, but people are evolving shaved tableside into your beans to give you in taste and are more open to a wide range an intensified lamb essence, these are the of flavour combinations. So, chefs here are details that create one-of-a-kind dishes. being more and more adventurous with their cuisines and flavours. Who would you say your chef inspiration is? All the chefs I have worked for, I have a little What are the hero dishes at CÉ LA VI? The part of them inside me. Sal Marino was my black truffle sushi rice risotto with butterfirst chef who is still my mentor. Josiah Cinut squash, beech mushrooms and parmetrin from Melisse, Timothy Hollingsworth san foam. It has been a hit and seems to be who people know from winning Final Table, the firm favourite. and Christopher Kostow from The RestauThe menu you’ve created fuses a lot of frarant at Meadowood, who showed me how to grant ingredients together – how do you really think of ingredients and dining expecurate them together? I read a lot, not only rience in a different way. cookbooks but also about the history of food. I think What are the hurdles you’ve you need to understand traexperienced during your The Hero ditional gastronomy before career? When you’re really passionate about something, you can really evolve someDishes you have to make that your thing new. Understanding Crispy Kale Salad main concern in life. I’ve how people eat in different Rocket arugula, petite missed out on so much with cultures to different flavour carrots, beetroot, friends and family, but it was profiles of each culture, peanuts, Thai lime essential at the time to grow makes you understand food vinaigrette into the chef I am today. on another level to develop Roasted Black Cod dishes that makes sense. Sweet corn pudding, What have been the key milegrilled spring onions, Describe the process that stones? The knowledge I miso beurre blanc have gained from all the work goes into curating new I put in. Friends I have made Black Truffle menus and new dish ideas? throughout the years, being I am very collaborative with “Sushi Rice” Risotto in the position I am in now my menu, with every chef Butternut squash, coming from a really bad in my kitchen. I always ask Shimeji mushrooms, neighbourhood in Los Anwhat they think when they Parmesan mousse try new dishes. I also engeles. I am grateful that my Roasted Chilean sacrifices to always strive to courage them to come up Sea Bass do better is paying off. with ideas that we can work Yuzu kosho seaweed on together, so they can get brown butter, girolles, What do you see next for CÉ better. During my time at the rock shrimp, grilled LA VI Dubai? CÉ LA VI Dubai French Laundry with 3 Misavoy cabbage and to be one of the best culinary bonito cream destinations in Dubai! We’re chelin stars, the menu would recognised for being at the change every day. I think of Grilled Spanish top of our game after such a looking at different cultures, Octopus short time, which is so great traditions, and then flavour Confit potato, demito be a part of. I want to components. My 14 years of sec tomato, smoked make an impact in the city, experience gives me a broadpimentón, squid ink that can’t go unnoticed. vinaigrette er perspective and makes me
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
Pur Oud Dhs6,300 Louis Vuitton for 100ml
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