Emirates Woman dives into the rich history of the highly-coveted fragrance, which carries such strong significance throughout the Arab region WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Oud – or oudh – is one of the most expensive raw fragrance ingredients in the world. Known in English as ‘agarwood’, the value of a kilo of oud can be just as expensive as a kilo of gold, sometimes even more. With an instantly recognizable woody scent, the fragrance ingredient originates from the bark of trees which are only found in South East Asia. It’s a scent which has become synonymous with the Middle East over thousands of years and can be traced back to the time of Prophet Muhammad (P.B.U.H). “He started the tradition of fumigating oneself with oud – a practice that is followed by Muslims today,” Fathiya Al Marzooqi, the co-founder of Alchimie tells Emirates Woman. “The Prophet Muhammad (P.B.U.H) referred to oud as an item found in Paradise.” It’s an inherent part of life in the Middle East and a part of Arab culture in general. Today, it’s used as a traditional aromatic and perfume in many forms: from high-grade wood chips burnt to welcome guests into one’s home, to perfuming garments and also perfuming the household with a rich and opulent fragrance. To delve deep into the history of oud in the region and the significance it has, Emirates Woman sat down with two experts – Fathiya Al Marzooqi, the co-founder of Alchimie and Salim Kalsekar, Managing Director of Rasasi Perfumes. Salim Kalsekar, Managing Director of Rasasi Perfumes What are the origins of oud in the Arab region? Oud follows a long tradition and is used for a variety of purposes from medicinal, to aromatherapy, to spiritual and in perfumery, while also being synonymous with luxury, exclusivity and intimacy. Known in English as agarwood, the first recorded use of oud dates back to at least 1400 B.C.E. and has continued throughout human history with numerous references being made in many religious texts, poetry and pharmacopoeia. Oud is sold in many forms from its purest
Oud – An Expert Guide F E AT U R E
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(wood chips and pieces), to an oil-dhanal oud (both pure and blended together with other fragrances). Even its derivative products which are usually small pieces of oud left over after distillation – oud moattar and its dust dakhoon or bukhoor is used as incense either alone or combined with other fragrant ingredients. Rasasi Perfumes, one of the foremost fragrance houses in the Middle East offers customers a wide range of agarwood and dhanal oud products, from popular to rare and coveted varieties. Rasasi has built a reputation for offering authentic agarwood and dhanal oud products ensuring that the customer pays for the exact worth of the product. The pure extract from the agarwood tree also known as Dhan Al Oudh is one of the most coveted oriental perfumes, highly desired for its complex scent that unfolds over a course of many hours imparting a lasting fragrance trail that is mysterious, intoxicating and exotic, invoking a sense of magic and mystique. What is the history of oud in the Middle East? Trade in agarwood and its products can be dated back to ancient times with some texts even reporting that traders used the famous Silk Route to transport agarwood from China to the Middle East via India. Traditionally, oud came from South and Southeast Asia (India, Bangladesh, China, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia and Vietnam), and it was consumed by markets primarily in Japan and the Middle East (Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and the United Arab Emirates). Presently, however, there has been an expansion both in supply centres (including Australia and Sri Lanka) and in demand (largely throughout Western Europe). Arabian perfumes have long been alluring the world with their distinct fragrances and are said to be synonymous with ancient heritage, tradition as well as fine luxury. Often referred to as black gold, the high price of oud is considered an indicator of its value as a precious and luxurious product, and the quality of the aroma can be viewed as an indication of status and prestige. Oud, also known as the ‘wood of the gods’, has been an important part of religious rituals believed to facilitate a connection between man and the divine. Due to its calming effect agarwood is also burnt during meditation. It has been used throughout history, either in the form of incense or fragrance oil for personal grooming, applied on the hair, behind the ears, neck and clothes prior to prayers and social gathering. The burning of agarwood is also considered an essential customary tradition within the Arab world and particularly in the Middle East, interwoven
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