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PEN HADOW, RESOLUTE BAY BY MARTIN HARTLEY Pen Hadow, photographed out training in the elements of Resolute Bay, Nunavut. This photo was taken several days prior to his departure from Ward Hunt Island en route to what would become a successful 478-mile unsupported expedition from the Canadian coast to the North Pole. It is a journey thought to be impossible without re-supply. With the fast deterioration of the sea ice, how rapidly the ice is moving, and the short season available to make the crossing, this voyage is unlikely to be repeated. @martinrhartley About Martin Hartley "I can't believe how tough it is to produce the astounding work he creates in the brutal conditions he works in. The energy and commitment oozes through his work. Additionally I don't think he shoots portraits—he shoots their soul. He is one of those rare characters who has sacrificed everything for his art. Few can genuinely claim that." –@erik _wainwright
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CONTRIBUTORS Writers: Lesley Anthony, Feet Banks, Noah Cohen, Abby Cooper, Colin Field, Jennifer Godbout, Brooke Jackson, Riley Leboe, Illissa Maiatico, Ben Osborne, Nick Russell, Andrew Sayer, Nicholas Teichrob, Andrea Turner. Photographers: Colin Adair, Chris Burkard, Abby Cooper, Wade Dunstan, Oskar Enander, Colin Field, Mattias Fredriksson, Talon Gillis, Ben Girardi, Grant Gunderson, Martin Hartley, Justa Jeskova, Blake Jorgenson, Reuben Krabbe, Keith Ladzinski, Riley Leboe, Bruno Long, Jordan Manley, Andy Mann, Paul Morrison, Robin O'Neill, Steve Ogle, Marcus Paladino, Tyler Roemer, Dave Silver, Sam Standing, Andrew Strain, Nicolas Teichrob.
PUBLISHING Below Zeroº by Mountain Life is published each October by Mountain Life Media and circulated throughout North America. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited. Views expressed herein are those of the author exclusively. © 2018. All rights reserved. To send feedback or for contributors’ guidelines email taylor@mountainlifemedia.ca. For distribution inquiries, please call 604 815 1900. Publications Mail Agreement #40026703. Return undeliverable addresses to Mountain Life, PO Box 2433 Garibaldi Highlands BC, V0N 1T0.
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–6–
Reuben Krabbe
Less stress. More ski. MEC staffers are ready to run you through the latest ski gear and tech so you can head out with your friends and just enjoy the day. Gear up before you go.
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Contents Foreword
A River Runs Through
Why do we climb mountains?
Culture
p. 11
p. 62
Unearthed Traditions
The Climate Activist’s Roadmap
Snowboarding in the Middle East
Call to Action
p. 16
p. 68
Seeking Nirvana
Pond Hockey
Searching for couloirs in Norway
Childhood Freedom
p. 30
p. 72
Home of the Front Range
The Beast from the East
Alberta’s best skiing
Chasing waves in Scotland
p. 36
p. 96
Iwanai
Gallery
Sliding in Japan
A photo essay of winter
p. 44
p. 106
The Dog Days of Winter
Summiting Frozen Steeples
Sled-dog tours in Algonquin Park
Role models
p. 50
p. 114
Leave Jet Lag Behind
Contemporary Pioneers
How to
Last Frontier Heli
p. 52
p. 118
Hakuba
Gear Guide
Travel Guide
Surf, Snow, & Ski
p. 54
p. 126
Ryan Munster
Storm Tent
Q&A
Poem
p. 56
p. 130
Piers Solomon, Engelberg, Switzerland.
–9–
OSKAR ENANDER
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FOREWORD “There is probably no pleasure equal to the pleasure of climbing a dangerous Alp; but it is a pleasure which is confined strictly to people who can find pleasure in it.” –Mark Twain
I
s it lunacy to hear the beckons of the mountains? Or crazy to heed them? To fill each snippet of free time with planning, obsessing? To sleep in cars and tents for first light, first chair, first tracks—anything that sucks us out of the dizzying spiral of so-called civilized life? Is it wild to willingly subject ourselves to the sub-zero elements and push into the raw, the frozen, and the untamed… for pleasure?! I’d like to believe the reason we pine for such experiences transcends the superficial. It’s rooted much deeper than the need to nab a pretty Instagram pic, flash the shiniest piece of new gear, or claim bragging rights of another descent or number of days logged on the hill. I believe we do it to connect. To connect to something greater. To connect with people, with ourselves, with nature. To connect with new places, new faces, new flavours, new sensations. To connect with a feeling that nothing in this world can compare to: dancing with the sultry curves of nature and the indescribable sensation of gliding upon, paddling with, climbing past, charging into, and sending off.
We do it for the opportunity to breathe in the crisp, cold, clean mountain air. To exist in the swirling geometric flakes that tornado around us as we trek through the storm, where the ego can’t even whisper. For the deep camaraderie among those who embrace being sun-kissed, wind-burnt, wrinkled and well-travelled above all else. For the heavy inhale/exhale of hiking, of fear, of excitement, of surrender. Before the drop, lost in the middle, and found somewhere at the bottom, amongst hoots and hollers of ecstasy. Here at Mountain Life we think it’s crazy not to chase these moments in between… rather, it’s brilliant to seek them out. Which is why we made this journal. My hope as you flip through these pages is that a word, a photo, a story or something within will fuel your desire to embark on your own wild adventure. To get outside, into the elements, into the natural world. To embrace risk and experience something— anything and everything—that excites your soul in breathtaking places, whether blanketed by snow or misted by the wintry fog of grey. To seek and discover moments that will push you past your comforts and into something new. To connect. –Taylor Godber
Walking with the chaos of snowmageddon in Niseko Japan. BEN GIRARDI
– 11 –
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Nick Russell and Alex Yoder, modelling the traditional jubbas (robes) with their personal Western world shred crafts.
– 16 –
UNEARTHED TRADITIONS The ancestry of snowboarding in the Middle East
words :: Nick Russell photos :: WRKSHRT
S
everal times a day, the prayer call rings loud over the mosque’s loudspeaker. It’s crackly sound system echoes throughout the village—a stark reminder of how far from home we really are. Situated below the Black Sea on the border of Georgia lies the Kaçkar Mountains in Eastern Turkey. Isolated from the major metropolitan city of Istanbul and any inklings of Western society, the small village of Petran sits secluded in the foothills of the range and is home to perhaps the oldest standing traditions of snowboard ancestry. I use the term snowboard loosely, as the local word is technically, uzmetatasi, which in the Black Sea dialect translates to, “a plank that slides and floats.” Depending on who you talk to, the stories date back anywhere from centuries to thousands of years ago. As the legend goes, a young boy was once tasked with cleaning his father’s wooden prayer mat. One day, rather than using his hands to clean it how he normally would, he took it outside to wash in the snow with his feet. He found that with the right angle, he could stand on the mat and glide down the hill. A basic foundation of snowboarding. While the majority our crew’s snowboard expeditions are generally focused around snowfall and geographical features jutting into the sky, the motivation for this specific trip was to delve deeper into vague rumours passed down the pipeline of an ancient board riding culture in the Middle East. Fellow snowboarder, Alex Yoder was intrigued enough to join on the trip, as were the masterminds behind WRKSHRT media, Wade Dunstan and David Cleeland. We were out of our element and lost in translation, but for nearly two weeks we engulfed ourselves in a predominantly Muslim community and explored the common thread: a love for standing sideways on a piece of wood.
– 17 –
Yoder floating in the Kaçkar Mountain Range, on a locally-made Petran board.
TOP Dedicated Turkish local hiking up to get the goods with his uzemetatasi. BOTTOM A little man rapper, lyrically making fun of the local politicians.
– 20 –
TOP The chef served up delicious soup for breakfast, but wasn’t so quick to give up all his secret shred spots. BOTTOM The footwear choice of the region is undoubtably, wool socks. If you want to fit in, we suggest a pair.
– 21 –
Sharing a love for standing sideways on a piece of wood sees no boundaries and no borders.
After hiking up and riding down gentle slopes on wooden planks for hours on end, we’d share tea around the wood burning stove with no words to speak but only honest conversation through smiles and nods.
Carried through multiple generations, this means of sliding along a snowy fall line has become a pure simple pleasure unique to this small corner of the globe. The locals call them Petran boards— primal in design, each handmade board is different from the next yet follows the same basic construction. Hammer a few planks of wood together with finishing nails, rub some cow fat on the bottom as wax and you’re ready to go. Though diverse manoeuvering isn’t necessarily a strong-suit of these boards’ functionalities, their true colours shine on a 20-degree slope in fresh snow. Hizir Havuz, a man whom Yoder stumbled across via Facebook, acted as our guide and history teacher while in Petran. With a quiver of over a dozen boards in the storage room of his mountainside workshop, it was clear that this was more than a hobby for Hizir. We couldn’t understand a word of each other’s respective languages, but the passion for his craft was evident in his eyes. It’s always a major gamble traveling across the world to partake in an activity dictated by weather. However, with a snowboard you have bindings and edges, making variable snow manageable. Riding a Petran board on the other hand, requires the increasingly rare ingredients of a perfect mid-winter storm. A day after our arrival, the odds were in our favour; cold temperatures, minimal winds and low-density snow. Hizir’s playground stood faultlessly primed with an unblemished coat of white flakes—we took full advantage of the situation. Grinning the entire time, he graciously shared his favourite runs around the village with us. We’d take turns setting a knee-deep bootpack, lapping each zone until the powder was tracked out and then move on to the next. The majority of the people we saw riding seemed to be in their 40s or 50s, the oldest in his 70s. Passed down from the elders above, the people of Petran have been riding for their entire lives on these contours literally outside their doorsteps. When the conditions permit, Petran boarders can be found taking runs until it’s too dark to see. Though the language barrier was far too steep to climb, we had discovered the most direct route to a personal connection. After hiking up and riding down gentle slopes on wooden planks for hours on end, we’d share tea around the wood burning stove with no words to speak but only honest conversation through smiles and nods. Preconceived notions of differences between Western and Eastern ideologies can be common amongst many of us. But when you boil it all down, we’re not so different. Sometimes all it takes is a piece of wood and a hill to come to that realization.
– 24 –
Alex Yoder swapping over to a secured-foot board to catch some air time.
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Matt Margetts dives into the bone-chilling Norwegian Sea from the crow's nest perched atop Framstig’s 18-metre mast. RILEY LEBOE
– 30 –
SEEKING NIRVANA Emboldened by the lore of the Norwegian Sea
words :: Riley Leboe
I
tie off a rope to a cleat on the ship’s deck, wrapping it in a figure eight motion, ensuring it holds. Up the 18-metre mast, the air fills our sail with the energy of a giant carpet being shaken clean. Aslak, our captain, barks earnest orders for us to, “raise the main and hoist the jib”. We then trimmed the massive lofting sail of Framstig, his 1914 wooden ‘ketch’, or twin mast sailboat, tight till the wind caught. The possibility of being flung overboard in the turbulent sloshing of the Norwegian Sea is an unconventional peril for a ski trip. We are under sail, travelling up Romsdalfjord in the Romsdal area of coastal northwest Norway. The fjords are lined with mountains so high, it feels as though they create a canopy overhead. It is otherworldly. We hope to bag one of the region’s big game couloirs that run like stripes between the sheer rock formations. Across the deck, Joe Schuster, Matt Margetts and Mike Henitiuk are smiling and wide-eyed, mirroring my excitement and disbelief. Gathering with Aslak at the helm, sitting under a century-old canvas, it’s clear the journey ahead will be awash with new experiences. The weathered boards creak with each wind change, as though calling out to us with tales of the past. Aslak begins telling us Framstig’s saga from across the seven seas. Still in his late 20s, Aslak comes from a line of explorers; his father salvaged the vessel we are on from a shipwreck, resurrecting her to sail around the world through the 1980s. Aslak points to artifacts: masks, a spear, and photos all collected during the circumnavigation. The spear, he explains, was a gift from a tribe in the Solomon Islands, that supposedly had taken a life.
Following in his father’s footsteps, Aslak has started his world travels aboard Framstig, cutting his teeth on the unforgiving seas surrounding Norway, the UK and Europe. The depth of the connection he and the Romsdal locals have to the ocean makes you wonder if they have seawater running through their veins. Emboldened by lore of navigating lost islands and harrowing crossings, we share stories of our own travels, and connect with our experienced captain, cementing a new friendship with the likeminded seeker.
over the nuances of the rappel to the entrance of the couloir. Looking down the exposure, a mix of snow shelves and sheer cliff face, my clammy hands clip in my belay device and I begin the rappel. My skis periodically bounce off protruding rocks sending jolts of adrenaline with each unbalanced move. Taking a moment to calm my nerves, I look around at the panoramic view of mountain peaks and disappearing horizon line of the open ocean. After surviving the scramble to reach the line, Margetts indicates that after our touch-
Aslak begins telling us Framstig’s saga from across the seven seas. After running downwind a couple of hours under a shower of rose beam lights from the sky as the sun makes its way closer to the horizon, we lay anchor at our moorage in a sheltered cove for the night. We spread a series of topographical maps on the galley table; the tight contour lines confirming the steepness of our surroundings. Contemplating the vastness of this glacially carved landscape, we pick out potential couloirs in the coastal maze. ••• The following morning, gear assembled, we step off Framstig and onto dry land (and snow) to begin the ascent to our first chute. For us, each step on the lengthy approach is new; there is thrill in that unknown. Gaining the summit ridge in sweatsoaked layers, we arrive at the crux of the approach. We pull a rope, set gear and mull
– 31 –
and-go rappel entrance, his nerves are ready and the skiing is the last thing he’s worried about now. Clicking into my bindings, I also find refuge in the familiar feeling of snow. We enjoy excellent corn snow turns down to the large basin below. As we ski back to Framstig, floating in the cove, I reflect on the surreal first endeavor of the trip. Aslak greets us on deck and we cheers a round of Hansa, a local Norwegian beer, to the successful 16-kilometre, 1400-metre day. The sun retires, and we start a fire a short distance from the boat. Aslak yells up something about leftovers to cook over the fire and approaches us with plastic bags hanging heavily in each hand. Smirking, he reaches into a bag and pulls out a sheep’s skull, split down the middle from crown to chin, and informs us that this often-overlooked smoked delicacy holds some of the most tender meat on the furry ruminant. I try a piece of tongue. He wasn’t wrong.
TOP Mike Henitiuk gazes down towards Framstig moored in the fjord below before reaching the peak of Trollstol (Troll’s Chair). BOTTOM A sunset tour above Romsdalsfjorden. RILEY LEBOE
– 32 –
TOP Riley Leboe places measured steps during the down climb to the couloir. BOTTOM Joe Schuster descends the most demanding couloir of the trip from the peak of Ryssdalsnebba. JAMIE TANNER
– 33 –
Charting our sailing route up the maze of glacier-carved inlets.
In short order we are acting like kids, daring Schuster to eat the eyeball. Popping it into his mouth, nearly gagging, he chokes the eyeball down amidst peals of laughter from onlookers around the campfire. Sitting under a clear night sky, trading stories while picking at morsels over the open fire, we discuss time travelling to far-off places physically and mentally and seeking out new experiences. Feeling connected to the location and events that unfolded, I wonder to myself if the Vikings may have been staring out into the universe from this same cove millennia ago. We enjoyed several days of alpenglow turns and stunning vistas before travelling east to approach our most ambitious line: a 700-metre couloir off the northeast face of Ryssdalsnebba, a peak that rises 1618 metres from the sea. As we tour up the Sunnmore Valley, a cloudy ceiling quickly descends upon us. Reaching our entrance after the four-hour tour, we find ourselves encased in heavy fog and blowing snow. With rimed faces and hoods donned, we assemble our shovels to tunnel through the remaining few feet of cornice to
see down the line. The thick fog doesn’t provide any reassurance of safety. Standing on the edge of our objective, hoping for a change in weather, we watch the storm intensify, eventually forcing our hand. Disappointed and defeated, we ski down our skin track to reassess the plan for our fleeting time left in Norway. The next morning, our final day, we all feel a bit anxious after having been rejected on the edge of a bucket list line the day prior. We decide to try again, and as we approach our previous turnaround point, the weather starts to improve–a much-needed stroke of luck. Walking up the ridge to guide Margetts into the narrow, supported entrance, I can hear the relief in his voice over the radio as he looks down the line. Traversing under the cornice, he places a couple of tight turns, his slough pouring beside him as he starts the descent. Being the fourth skier down, with much of the new snow already slid off, I notice the crystal blue sheen of the ice running down the center of the couloir, and cautiously carve turns between the cavernous walls. Exiting the couloir, lungs burning, a sense
– 34 –
RILEY LEBOE
of calm washes over me after a focus-fueled descent. As I ski toward the group, Henitiuk is reclined; smiling while massaging out the lactic acid running though his thighs after what he claims was one of the best lines of his life. There are now but a few clouds in the sky. Victory is ours, this time. Sailing off with the couloir in the distance and reveling in the success of the day, it feels as though the journey has just begun. As much as we enjoyed each ski descent, it was the moments in between the turns that are most ingrained in us. We filled in some new spaces on our map, and while we feel fortunate to write a new chapter in Framstig’s extensive book of adventures, we also recognize that we’ve only scratched the surface of what is possible in this region. Looking down the fjord, the open ocean still calls. Sitting on the weathered boards once again, we want nothing more than to continue sailing around the next corner, up the next fjord. With an ocean of possibilities on the horizon, the only thing on my mind is what the next adventure has in store.
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HOME ON THE
FRONT RANGE Is it any coincidence that Alberta’s best skiing can be found in Alberta’s best places?
The forever humbling view of the Rocky Mountains, home to some of the best on- and off-piste skiing in Canada.
ROBIN O'NEILL
Sending it over the scenic town of Jasper.
ADAM GREENBERG COURTESY OF MARMOT BASIN
– 38 –
words :: Leslie Anthony
I
’m sliding across the bottom of an ocean. More precisely, an ocean hundreds of millions of years old thrust some 2,700 metres into the sky. No worries, though, the same sun that once bathed these ancient reefs shines on in a clear blue sky, and the rocky sea floor is nicely cushioned by a generous amount of Canada’s lightest snow—the kind skiers go ga-ga for. Not only that but I have, in a single leisurely run on this treeless expanse, skied from Alberta into British Columbia and back again along the Continental Divide, stitching together drainages that tilt both west to the Pacific, and eastward on a long, convoluted journey to the Atlantic. Add in the vista of an extensive lift network I’ve ridden all day and a plethora of fellow skiers enjoying three adjacent mountains like ants at so many picnics, and clearly there is much going on at Sunshine Village ski area outside Banff, Alberta. Located as it is in the enduring wilderness of venerable Banff National Park, there is also, paradoxically, very little going on. From my vantage atop Lookout Mountain, no other sign of civilization mars the horizon. Only the serrations of the vaunted Rocky Mountains, with icons like Mt. Assiniboine—Canada’s Matterhorn—punctuate the view. Ascending this morning on a 20-minute gondola ride from the shadowy parking lot below imposing Mt. Bourgeois to a scatter of buildings that include a vintage, log-walled warden’s cabin and the ultra-modern Sunshine Mountain Lodge, I can’t help but feel gloriously isolated up here—the same feeling that has drawn skiers to this aerie since 1929. While much of my day has been spent on the kind of wide open, impeccably groomed slopes skiers refer to as “cruisers,” atop Lookout my ski tips hang in space above Delirium Dive, one of the world’s top off-piste descents, a dizzying run that distills ski history, forces of nature, and the trade offs that come with commercial development in a national park. It just so happens that this stew of historic and contemporary, isolated but accessible, is a microcosm of the very best skiing Alberta has to offer. Discount the small river-valley ski areas edging most of its Prairie cities and skiing in Alberta is all about the Front Range of the Rockies: tilted limestone layer cakes skirted in vast swaths of untouched forest, constellated by glaciers and the robin’s egg lakes gathered at their feet. It’s scenery lauded as some of the world’s most impressive—even by Europeans, who know something of mountain beauty.
"I’m sliding across the bottom of an ocean. More precisely, an ocean hundreds of millions of years old thrust some 2,700 metres into the sky." Alberta’s top ski destinations all lie within the UNESCO World Heritage collective of Banff and Jasper National Parks, linked by the Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Lake Louise, and the world famous Icefields Parkway joining the latter to the town of Jasper and Marmot Basin, where I’d begun my most recent Front Range ski trip. Driving north, Marmot spun into view just before Jasper proper, a series of compact ribbons falling toward the broad valley of the Athabasca River. Any notions that it was a small area, however, were laid quickly to rest by terrain unseen from the road. Marmot skis large: a spectrum of broad pistes in the European tradition mix liberally with chunks of legitimate alpine adventure surrounding the Knob and Eagle Ridge chairs. Amazingly, though the last snowfall was many days previous, the treed glades of Eagle East delivered lingering powder, testament to the low mid-week traffic of an area where I never once waited to board a lift. While the upper mountain deposits you at the hewed-wood warmth of Paradise Lodge, lower runs gather meticulously toward a family friendly base and a spacious new chalet. Despite increasing numbers of international visitors, Marmot still vibes “Prairie folk,” and parking lots stacked with Alberta plates translated to all eyes in the airy Caribou Lounge glued to a televised women’s curling match between Saskatchewan and Alberta.
– 39 –
With Edmonton four hours distant, many skiers stay at historic Jasper Park Lodge, originally of the palatial Canadian Pacific Railway hotel chain. Located on the outskirts of a modest town whose three-story build limit likens it, in some minds, to an early version of Banff, the lodge delivers unparalleled northwoods chic. Outside, steam from a heated pool mixes with mist from the nearby Athabasca, cross-country trails braid the grounds where elk wander uninhibited, and a skating loop circles a small lake. If you had to leave this idyll behind, as I did, the Icefields Parkway offered a perfect exit. In winter, the Canadian roadway that enjoys more world-renown than any other is spectacular in a different kind of way: gone are summer’s aquamarine lakes, wandering wildlife, and thick tourist traffic, replaced by an empty road, the wind pluming off razor peaks, and a patina of white running to every horizon. The way the high, snow-limned ridges connect to glaciers, the glaciers to treed moraines, and the moraines to valley bottoms speak to the Pleistocene forces that shaped this place. As does virtually everything about Lake Louise Ski Resort. It’s hard to say which is more stunning: the gaze from Whitehorn Mountain across the Bow Valley to Princess Louise’s eponymous lake, Valley of the Ten Peaks and Mt. Temple, or the battleship ramparts of Redoubt Mountain viewed from the area’s Larch Sector. Either way, you can’t avoid any of this breathtaking wallpaper; awe is part of the ski experience here. Many of the runs on the frontside of Whitehorn, where the leg-burning Summit platter-lift deposits you on its peak, ski like a winding downhill course—no surprise given the revered World Cup races that take place here annually. But when it snows, skiers and snowboarders are drawn to Louise’s ample backside, where a variety of powdery back bowls and tree runs remind visitors just how big and diverse the resort is. The village of Lake Louise presents another great overnight destination for skiers, whether its the creaking comfort of Deer Lodge, the opulent hominess of the Post Hotel (featuring Canada’s largest wine cellar), or venerable Chateau Lake Louise with its stone fireplaces, anachronistic animal heads, and walls adorned with photos from the golden age of Canadian mountaineering. As elsewhere in the Banff-Jasper corridor, halls here echo with the names of guides, instructors, and builders whose varied efforts connect all of Front Range ski history: Monod, Brewster, Whyte and others. In the Lakeview Lounge—familiar from colorful Canadian Pacific Railway posters of yore—soaring windows deliver the hanging Victoria Glacier, framed by Mts. Victoria and Farady. On the forest-encircled, ice-covered lake below might be a wedding, skaters, cross-country skiers, or a horse-drawn sleigh ride. While the winter scene here can strike you as timeless, the skiing at Louise can do so as well. From the resort’s Temple Lodge, it’s an easy but stunning 11-kilometre tour into historic Skoki Lodge, the first facility built specifically to cater to ski-tourists in North America. Buried in a valley beneath majestic peaks, arriving at the snow-covered log structure always feels like going back in time, the interior virtually unchanged from the day it opened in 1931—wooden skis and snowshoes adorn a large stone fireplace and the aroma of fresh bread and soup stirs the air. Operated by Lake Louise, the lodge accommodates up to 22, a region-defining must-visit for backcountry aficionados. Skoki radiates the kind of authenticity that inspires exploration—and not just the popular pastime of climbing and skiing surrounding peaks. It also makes you wonder what other gems the Front Range conceals, for which you need look no further than the nearby town of Banff. Here you’ll find railroad magnate Cornelius Van Horne’s Banff Springs Hotel, a paean to post-Renaissance opulence first opened in 1888; the historic Cave and Basin Hot Springs, whose discovery kicked off Canada’s entire national park system; and more skiing than you can handle at charming and steep-pitched Mt. Norquay. The Front Range lacks nothing for diversity. Norquay is Banff’s venerable “local hill,” whose superb overviews offer the kind of orientation no map can deliver. Looking south from the historic Tea House at 2,100 metres, with its undulating art deco roof featured in so many period photos by the Swiss Guide-cum-photographer Bruno Engler, I see the townsite tucked against the hillock of Tunnel Mountain under the stern flanks of Mt. Rundle, from whose notched summit snow-jets stream into gunmetal sky. To my left is Mt. Cascade, a pyramid of offset sediments that frames all views down Banff’s main street; on the right, across Vermillion Lakes, Sulphur Mountain and its sightseeing gondola. Back in the day, Norquay was one bad-ass mountain; other than beginner flats, it was all steep pitches on forest-covered talus and interconnecting gullies that avalanched with regularity. And though new lifts and a major addition of intermediate terrain have tamed it somewhat, Norquay’s original GS-style pistes quickly remind you of the mountain’s substantive race heritage.
RIGHT PAGE, TOP & BOTTOM Laying turns into the white room of Lake Louise.
– 40 –
REUBEN KRABBE COURTESY OF LAKE LOUISE
– 41 –
Norquay may be the smallest of the three resorts in Banff, but it still delivers the goods.
REUBEN KRABBE COURTESY OF NORQUAY
Not to mention freestyle chops—as the massive bumps on infamous “Lone Pine” off the North American Chair attest. This double-black plunge poses serious challenge even to advanced skiers, especially when, like today, those bumps are icy. Descending, I recollect the apocryphal tale that my friends and I gleefully traded in the 1970s of an unfortunate skier who fell at the top and slid and bounced 400 vertical metres in a gold-lamé onesie that was then employed as his body bag. The silliness of that myth notwithstanding, Norquay doesn’t quite draw the snows of Banff’s other two hills, and though there’s serious steep-and-deep potential when it’s on—typically early or late season—it’s more of a cruiser’s dream. I spin a few black laps on the Mystic Chair, then cool down with a blue: “Monod’s Legacy” celebrates the Banff family whose paterfamilias, Johnny Monod, immigrated from Switzerland in 1947 to guide and teach skiing. He also founded what would become Canada’s most famous outdoor store, Monod Sports; sent three scions to the national alpine team in the 1960s and 1970s; and seeded a third generation in today’s high-profile freeskier, Tatum Monod. Although her grandpappy was instrumental in the development of Sunshine and Lake Louise ski areas, he also helped out at Norquay, cutting trails, moving boulders, and setting up a shop. A family business built on being rad. Eventually, my wanderings led me to Sunshine Village. After a morning linking turns off popular Standish, Goat’s Eye and TeePee Town chairs, I’m about to experience Sunshine’s true test piece, Delirium Dive, a massive alpine amphitheatre accessed via a metal catwalk staircase. Once thought of as a daredevil’s paradise, The Dive’s nasty reputation for unstable snow saw it closed for several decades until Parks Canada figured out how to make it safer by running avalanche control in its vast drainages. When it reopened in 1998, skiers flocked to The Dive, legitimizing Alberta in the international annals of big mountain resort skiing. Snow squeaks under my skis as I tip into this latest postcard. I’ll ski some steep terrain, then make the exhilarating eight-kilometre run to the Bourgeois parking lot and drive back to Banff. Along the way will be more views, more powder, and a swim through the deep geology of a limestone canyon. After all, skiing may famously be the closest thing to flying without leaving the earth, but in Alberta, it’s also like diving into an ocean.
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JEWELS OF ALBERTA SKIING MARMOT BASIN
LAKE LOUISE
Vertical drop: 914 m Summit/base elevations: 2,612 m/1,698 m Average annual snowfall: 400 cm Number of lifts: 7 Number of runs: 107 Skiable acres: 1,675 % Beginner/Intermediate/Expert: 30/30/40 Season: November-May Info: skimarmot.com
Vertical drop: 991 m Summit/base elevations: 2,637 m/1,646 m Average annual snowfall: 454 cm Number of lifts: 10 Number of runs: 145 Skiable acres: 4,200 % Beginner/Intermediate/Expert: 25/45/30 Season: November-May Info: skilouise.com
SUNSHINE VILLAGE
MT. NORQUAY
Vertical drop: 1,070 m Summit/base elevations: 2,730 m/1,658 m Average annual snowfall: up to 9 m Number of lifts: 12 Number of runs: 107 Skiable acres: 3,358 % Beginner/Intermediate/Expert: 20/55/25 Season: November-May Info: skibanff.com
Vertical drop: 503 m Summit/base elevations: 2,450 m/1,680 m Average annual snowfall: 300 cm Number of lifts: 4 Number of runs: 42 Skiable acres: 190 % Beginner/Intermediate/Expert: 50/35/15 Season: December-April Info: banffnorquay.com
Taking advantage of the corduroy to burn some fluid carves en route to the lodge at Sunshine Village. REUBEN KRABBE COURTESY OF SUNSHINE VILLAGE
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I
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A
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Sliding in Japan
words :: Andrew Sayer
photos :: Chris Burkard
KC Deane and Callum Pettit enjoy what trips to Hokkaido are all about: Powder runs with your friends.
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O
ur planet is a crazy place right now. And if you can’t separate ‘alternative facts’ from reality, the world may seem on the brink of disaster. But the truth is, relationships on all sides have never been better. As proof, this winter an inclusive crew of skiers and snowboarders traveled to Japan during one of its deepest seasons ever. Connected by a mutual passion for bindingless noboarding, no differences could split this team of shred seekers. Let’s do a seemingly unrelated history recap to show how unlikely a trip like this should be: • • • • • •
In 1812 America declared war on Canada and invaded. After making up, the Allies of WWII dropped atomic bombs on Japan in 1945 in retaliation for an ambush at Pearl Harbor. From 1942 to 1949, tens of thousands of Japanese Canadians from the Pacific Northwest were forced into internment camps. In the early 1980s, snowboarders were banned from nearly all North American ski resorts. Some hold to this day. During the mid-90s, riders allegedly jibbed Breckenridge slopes strapped with handguns for protection. In 2014, women’s ski jumping was finally added into the Olympics ending a 90-year ban due to discriminatory gender stereotypes.
Despite all this, last winter a unified crew consisting of men and a woman—from both Canada and America—who pray to different gods or none at all, with varying choices in snow sliding craft, joined forces to ride the deepest of powder in a land of Shinto and Buddhist beliefs, at a resort in northern Japan owned by a respected American expat. For most of the last century or so, any one of these combinations would have been an impossibility without yelling, bloodshed, or perhaps even nuclear war. But now—what a time to be alive! This diverse squad brought together to explore the hidden depths of Hokkaido consisted of Callum Petit, Helen Schettini, KC Deane, and Mason Mashon. These athletes would be trading off skis, snowboards, and noboards in front of adventure surf photographer, Chris Burkard. Rarely is a group or trip not dictated by sponsors or craft, but instead by common stoke and four-season friendships. The high fives on this
dream trip were actual, for-reals stoke—not dictated by a team manager to boost social marketing presence. Having said that, Burkhard does have 3.5 million Instagram fans to appease—but they’re pretty laid back. A collective devotion for noboarding brought these athletes—from airplanes to trains and eventually snowcats, into the heart of ‘Japow!’ In a more sentimental way it was also for the shared love of the ‘glide.’ Originally a surf term, the glide is an altered way of looking at the mountain that displays the maturation of snow sports and an ability to look back at the initial boardsport inspiration. Skiers and riders both pay homage to the unique lines one can draw on a wave and that feeling it gives whether trimming down the line or hacking an open face. For some, the glide has even become a way of life—a thriving focus on creativity and style. It has led to some great innovations as well: the one board quiver-killer is mostly gone. Skiers are taking surfy lines and riding noboards. Snowboarders are trekking vertical on two planks. In the end it’s all just sliding and gliding. This crew is a perfect example. Callum may have made a name for himself as a skier, but his skills in surf, skate, snowboarding, and noboarding far exceed novelty. KC and Mason are similar, but find their summer flow primarily on two wheels, biking down burly descents similar to how they’d shred them on snow. And Helen gives all these guys a run for their money in the ocean. Leading such opportunistic lifestyles, it was natural to want to test a winter take on the surf quiver—depending on snow depth, crowd levels, and terrain, just grab whatever piece of equipment is going to give you the most enjoyment. The main ambition during planning was to ride a resort with endless powder and switch between skis, boards, and noboards between runs. No crowds would be a necessity. Japan’s northern island was given the nod as a worthy location, but not just any resort would do. There was once a myth in North America that Japanese skiers believed that spirits lived in the trees, so they would stick to the groomers and leave the powder to the tourists. Bull. Shit. It’s the Japanese that have been leading the charge on the whole snow surfing movement of late. They froth for the pow and have a deep respect for the traditions behind it. This means the heavily-travelled
LEFT PAGE, CLOCKWISE STARTING TOP LEFT Callum Pettit, nicknamed "banana man" for the duration of the trip, found his car of choice; Skier Callum Pettit finding a unique line though the trees; Mason Mashon & Callum Pettit enjoying the one off day during our 7-day ski trip. Snow was in no short supply, we were almost thankful for a break when it finally came; An old Snow Plow on the coast of Hokkaido; Helen Schettini trying her hand on a noboard; Helen Schettini enjoying the coastal side of the South Island of Hokkaido; (MIDDLE) KC Deane with noboard in hand wishing he knew just a little more Japanese.
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Niseko zone of Hokkaido gets tracked faster than ever. In the last few years it’s become trendy to make a powder pilgrimage to Japan. Especially for Australians who liken it to a wintry, snowy Indonesia. The area now sees over one million visitors annually—many of whom have a funky shaped board in their quiver. Pow seekers looking to really score must search a little harder, and that’s how the chosen four ended up at Iwanai. One of those undercover gems—and well worth traveling across the Pacific for, even when home mountains are getting hammered—Iwanai resort has a cool origin story. Back in the 80s and early 90s it was one of 800 or so booming ski areas in Japan, but the cyclical nature of skiing hit a low point and many of them were shuttered, including Iwanai. During this heyday American video game executive John Greiner was living in Japan and would ski there often, even camping overnight on the summit to take advantage of empty mornings. He fell in love with the terrain and local town, knowing its high elevation and steeper pitch would make for a perfect cat operation. And now he’s an owner of the newly reopened Iwanai resort. There is one double chairlift spinning laps, but the real focus is accessing the mountain via their luxe aquarium-style 10-person snowcat. The town itself sits right on the coast where intense Siberian storms whip down from Russia, build across the Sea of Japan, and then smack straight into Iwanai’s oceanfront backcountry. The wind that comes with these storms means free refills and with the cat-operation Iwanai doesn’t have to worry about lift closures like other resorts.
Originally a surf term, the glide is an altered way of looking at the mountain that displays the maturation of snow sports and an ability to look back at the initial boardsport inspiration. It’s not all sushi and downtime when not riding. Iwanai has a massive private Picasso collection and though the geishas have gone, it still boasts the most concentrated bar area per capita in all of Hokkaido—perfect for a post-ride Nikka whiskey from the local distillery. Don’t forget the cash. The emphasis is on preserving Iwanai’s small scale for the near future. Keeping crowds low, snow quality high, and stimulating the local economy are all top of list. For the discerning guest who desires more privacy it’s possible to step it up even further by renting out the entire mountain. So, did our heroes find what they were looking for? Well just look at those pictures! A powder-choked mountain nearly to themselves with a fully-loaded cat awaiting their descent. Bright monotone outfits disappearing and reappearing with every turn. Each run an excuse to try out a new shape or style of gear and smile ever wider. No one to impress but themselves (and a gazillion Insta followers) and no pressure to do the latest fad trick. It was all about focusing on the first manoeuver invented: left, right, left, right. Forever! So, let this be an invitation to stop reminiscing about the good ol’ days, and take advantage of the world’s positive forward momentum. Experiencing a new culture through sliding on snow is a small step, but a new friend on a pow day is one less enemy. Help unify the planet around the power of glide by seeking out strangers in strange lands, and get that damn pow on whatever craft necessary. – 48 –
Skier KC Deane getting out of the powder for a brief moment at the Iwanai Resort in Hokkaido, Japan.
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Hank DeBruin and one of his 150 fourlegged kids.
THE DOG DAYS OF WINTER A mountain man and 150 dogs
words & photo :: Colin Field
T
he two Siberian huskies are yelping and barking in anticipation as Hank DeBruin hands their leads to my 8-year-old son. These beautiful dogs were born to run—and they’re ready. DeBruin and his employees continue lifting dogs out of the GMC 3500 truck, clipping them into their harnesses and then onto the gangline that attaches five dogs each to the sleds. After a short cacophony of yelps, DeBruin explains how to manage our sled, and then we’re off into the woods. This three-hour tour is run nearly every day when weather allows— introducing 3500-4000 people to mushing each winter season. It feels like an introductory course; like we’re preparing to disappear into the wilderness for the next 13 days. Which is exactly what DeBruin does on his days off. Legendary races like the Iditarod, or the Yukon Quest— 1000-mile races that can last for nearly two weeks, testing mushers and their dog team in the frigid weather and remote wilderness of the north: “I live for those,” he says. DeBruin is the real deal. His eyes are the same colour as some of his huskies’, his beard wild and unkempt, and his fleece sweater is thick with dog fur. He’s a mountain man stuck in the flats of Ontario, and he loves it. DeBruin and his wife Tanya McCready fell into dogsledding almost accidentally—it started with an adorable Siberian husky puppy at a pet store in Guelph in the late 1990s. “We had no intention of getting a dog,” he recalls, “but after several trips back to the store, we couldn’t leave her behind. My wife and I had no idea what we were getting ourselves into with a husky, so as she destroyed our apartment, ran away, and chased cats, we frantically got our hands on any book we could find about huskies. One was called Race Across Alaska by Libby Riddles, and it was the story of her Iditarod run. Suddenly, we were both enamoured with dogsledding, Alaska and everything about the race.” At the time, the couple were ‘normal’ people; DeBruin was working as a millwright throughout Ontario and Eastern Canada, while McCready was an environmental engineer. They had a nice place in Guelph’s growing suburbia, and one puppy in the bed with them was a cozy little existence. Then they got a second husky to keep their first dog company. Then they got two more to make a team of four. Then they realized five was a better number for sledding, so they bought one more. But the store owner convinced them to take two extras on top of that, and suddenly, they were a seven-dog family. That passion soon led to the creation of Winterdance Dogsled Tours and a move to Haliburton near the southern edge of Algonquin Park. That was in 1999.
Today, their company is a model of dogsled tour businesses. They own 2,100 acres between Haliburton Lake and Algonquin Park, with more than 60 miles of trails. But the kennel is most impressive: a 5,000-square-foot indoor boarding facility. The huskies enjoy radiant floor heating and dog parks—and the older dogs get air conditioning in the summer. The couple now has about 150 dogs, each with meticulous records on diet, exercise and everything else. They never sell or put down any of the huskies, and there is even a hospice for dogs that are dying. “A normal husky’s lifespan is 12 to 14 years,” says DeBruin. “Our huskies live 14 to 16 years. We are determined to keep pushing that number higher.” And if there was any doubt, it’s the dogs that keep DeBruin and his wife (and now their four kids) running Winterdance. “It’s a cliché when mushers say ‘it’s all about the dogs,’ but it truly is,” he says. “They are such incredible creatures; their heart, passion, drive, energy, and sheer joy for life is so infectious. Being able to travel silently through the wilderness with your best friends, independent of anything or anyone else is magical. It involves connection, communication and teamwork unlike anything else I have ever experienced, and it also brings a huge adrenaline rush having a big team of dogs all moving together.” DeBruin is a guy who knows all about adrenaline. He used to race motorcycles. “I drag raced my modified 1200 Yamaha V-Max and Kawasaki ZX-11 in Ontario and New York State,” he says. “None of that, not even 200 miles per hour on a motorcycle, compares to running a dog team.” DeBruin’s racing dreams came to fruition when he started running the big dogsled races in Alaska and Yukon Territory. He ran the Iditarod in 2010 and 2012, the Yukon Quest in 2011, 2014 and 2017, and has plans for a 1000-mile Yukon/Alaska adventure in 2020. While he has never claimed victory in a race, he admits he is not in it for the glory. “It’s all about the experience and the adventure on the trail with our dogs and how we all learn and grow from that journey,” he says. At 55 years-old, DeBruin shows no signs of slowing down, and he has no plans to retire. “Why retire when we love what we’re doing?” he asks. While the Yukon Quest is a world away for my son, wife and I, we enjoy the experience of our dog-driven adventure. By the end of our three-hour Winterdance tour we’re convinced we need at least five sled dogs. Watching as DeBruin and his son lift the dogs into the truck afterwards, it’s clear this lifestyle brings a ton of love and joy to the family. And looking at DeBruin’s glowing eyes surrounded by happy wrinkles, it’s obvious buying five sled dogs is a life-changing decision; but it’s the right one.
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LEAVE JET LAG BEHIND Tips and tricks for easing time zone travel and maximizing your trip
words :: Dre Turner
J
et lag can be a beast. It throws off our body clock (read: circadian rhythm) leaving us drained of energy and constipated; the prime recipe for irritability. Not exactly the ideal vacation vibe, right? In our quest to ensure you don’t get stuck trudging through your day like a zombie, missing first chair, and
sleeping through those short, precious daylight hours, we consulted the pros: snowboarder and Canadian Olympian, Spencer O’Brien spends roughly 200 days a year on the road and just as many in the snow. For all things to do with natural health and wellness, we checked in with Kaylee Driedger, N.D.; while the traditional medical perspective is covered by Cathy Zeglinski, M.D., Dip CASEM, C.C.F.P.. Finally, Melissa Kazan is a registered dietitian and sports nutritionist. They’ve all agreed to share some wisdom on how to beat jet lag, so you can hit the ground running (or sliding) this winter. Pay attention!
Globe-trotter Chad Sayers playing bellman in Revelstoke.
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JORDAN MANLEY
TALK TO A DOC
SOAK UP SOME SUN
Dr. Zeglinski recommends getting a prescription sleep aid to take on the plane (for long/international flights only) and to use on the first night at your destination. It’s also a good call to avoid alcohol when flying—it’s dehydrating and can have negative interactions with drugs or medications. Always consult your doctor to find what’s best for you.
A dose of daylight and fresh air when you reach your destination can work wonders. To get your circadian rhythm back on track, you want light exposure early in the day. This allows time for your natural melatonin to kick in as the day goes on so you’re ready for bed at an appropriate time. If you’re travelling east (to an earlier time zone), you want to get some morning sun and limit light exposure in the afternoon. If you’re travelling west (to a later time zone), you want a hit of sunshine in the afternoon to keep you going until bedtime.
MORE SMART SLEEP, LESS SMARTPHONE “No electronics at least 1-2 hours before bed and definitely not while in bed,” says Dr. Driedger. “Phones, computers, and TVs emit blue light which stimulates the pineal gland in the brain, sending the message to stop producing melatonin.” Light influences our biological circadian rhythm of fluctuating hormones, so if we artificially receive light stimulation from electronics, it can throw off our natural rhythm, creating sleep-wake disturbances.
STRETCH IT OUT After being cramped in an upright position on a plane or in a car, your hip flexors, hamstrings, glutes, back—basically your whole body, could use some gentle TLC. Adding some stretches into your nighttime routine can work wonders on relaxing your body and preparing it for sleep.
GET AHEAD OF YOURSELF
BE STRICT ABOUT BEDTIME
Dr. Zeglinski, Ms. Kazan, and Dr. Driedger all recommend adjusting your body clock gradually in preparation for a big trip. Start easing towards the new time zone before leaving home by shifting your sleep pattern by roughly 30 minutes each day over the week leading up to your departure.
Stay up as late as humanly possible—within reason. When O’Brien is battling travel burnout, she takes half of a (doctor prescribed) sleeping pill on her first night and sticks to a strict 10 pm bedtime. Any earlier, and you risk waking up in the middle of the night wondering how long until breakfast.
TIME TRAVEL Change your clocks as soon as you’re through security. Most smartphones adjust to your new time once you switch off airplane mode, but manually changing time zones can help get you in the right mindset. This way, even if it’s just subconsciously, your brain will start acclimating to where you’re heading.
HYDRATE, HYDRATE, HYDRATE Drink all the water you can. And then some. And then some more. Air travel increases the rate of dehydration exponentially. According to Ms. Kazan, drinking 1-2 cups of water per hour is optimal to stay on top of things. Bonus: adding lemon to your water can help improve and sustain hydration.
NO NAPPING Once you’re at your destination it can be tempting to rest your eyes for “just a minute”, except that can lead to hours. Don’t fall for it. Take it from Spencer O’Brien, who says, “Keep moving once you arrive at your destination. There have been too many times when I’ve settled into my spot, sat down and accidentally passed out for four hours, ruining any chance I had of beating the lag for that trip. Go out, get groceries, walk around, do anything to keep yourself from falling asleep before your new time zone’s bed time.” And if you happen to arrive at your new destination just in time for après, find the hot spot and proceed as normal.
SWEAT IT OUT Making time for a pre-flight workout is a great way to prime the body for a time change. Even if it’s just some light exercise, getting the blood flowing and expending any extra energy can help quiet the body when it’s time for sleep. Bonus: “When we’re active and sweating the body is not only detoxifying but releasing endorphins (happy hormones) that also have anti-inflammatory effects”, Dr. Driedger points out.
EAT WELL When it comes to food, Dr. Driedger says the secret is in the ingredients. “Every meal should be a combination of fat, fibre, and protein, which cover the bases to keep our blood sugar stable. Stabilized blood sugar prevents anxiety—especially helpful for anyone fearful of flying.” She adds that avoiding caffeine and sugars is also important, as they can cause nervous jitters, insomnia and palpitations. Fibre is also helpful in preventing and alleviating constipation, which can often occur as a result of air travel. The wonders of modern travel enable us to explore some epic places. And the wonders of modern (Eastern and Western) medicine can help ease the side effects that come with time zone hopping. Whether it’s an annual shred holiday or checking new adventures off the bucket list, don’t get left behind when you could be getting first tracks or nod off when you should be après-ing. Happy trails to you and here’s to avoiding the jet lag blues.
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HAKUBA, JAPAN
TRIP TRICKS words :: Ben Osborne photos :: Mattias Fredriksson
“Bring your f*cking snorkel”
T
GETTING THERE
hat simple advice came from my buddy Javier as soon as he learned I’d signed up for a trip to Hakuba, Japan. At the time, I brushed it off as an overused social media cliché. Javier is a guide with Extremely Canadian, it’s his job to pump my sails like that. For a moment I doubted the reality of ‘Japow’ would live up to the daydream I had fabricated from years of ski films filled with bullet train travel scenes, pow-covered faces, and oft-visited snow monkeys. My infatuation with the place was real, but would it—could it—live up to the fantasy in my mind’s eye? Six turns into my first run, I realized Javier was not messing around. Flowing with each turn into the unmistakable depth and weightlessness of the Japanese powder, all doubts were quickly dismissed—Japan is certifiably snorkel-able. After years of dirtbag adventures, Japan was the first time I’d treated myself. Guided by Extremely Canadian, I spent two weeks zipping up short ski-tours from the resort followed by massive descents, seeking out the most delicious food in town, and experiencing unique culture along the way. I fell in love with Japan. And because the world needs more love, here is a short list of my favourite moments and trip tricks from my brief (but not last) time in Hakuba. In this age of information saturation, curated social media blurbs and a near-global migration to any ‘next big thing’, it’s rare for a place to exceed expectations and transcend our daydreams. For me, Japan did just that.
Air: Cruising from the West Coast of Canada or US by air? You’re lucky. Major hubs like Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, and Vancouver have daily, non-stop flights to Tokyo which typically come in at just over nine hours of air time. Land: From Tokyo, there are a few options to get to Hakuba. Bus: Most routes require a train/bus combination and are priced affordably. Shuttle: With pick-up from the airport and drop-off where you need, this is certainly the easiest option. Bullet Train: This requires a few awkward transfers with a large ski bag, but is the cheapest and quickest option. It’s also a spectacle to ride this one-of-a-kind mode of transportation. I recommend using a baggage transfer service to avoid hauling your precious skis or board through crowded stations during the transfers. From Tokyo, we chose to head to Hakuba via Chuo Taxi. After a few late-night bus transfers and some smooth operating by our driver through a Japanese blizzard, we arrived at Morino Lodge.
MORINO LODGE With multiple locations around town and a variety of room types, Morino Lodge is an ideal place to rest your head as a skier or rider visiting Hakuba. For smaller groups, the Lodge has affordable single room options that put you near the grill, a drying room, and other classic hotel amenities. The Lodge also offers chalets to accommodate larger groups.
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LEFT PAGE Tatsuya Tayagaki in transit to the ramen. ABOVE LEFT & RIGHT Enjoying the flavours of Hakuba.
Other options range from Airbnbs to high-end boutique hotels. Scope it out and just remember, regardless of room type, the most important service provided is free shuttles to the mountain each morning. Morino Lodge had us covered on that front.
KEEP AN OPEN MIND One of the common misconceptions about riding in Japan is that all the good terrain is right in front of you, and lift-accessed riding is the end-all be-all. I quickly learned that the real gold lies a bit further off the beaten path. We arrived at our first location to scout out one of the most popular resorts in the area, Hakuba Cortina. After slapping on the touring skins and walking for literally five minutes we kicked off a cycle of neck deep never-ending laps. As our guide Alex Wigley put it: “Why would I ski over tracks when I could ski fresh pow?” Touché.
Grab ‘n’ go: Looking to pack lunch for the hill? Head over to 7-Eleven or Lawson’s Market and pick up some onigiri—a sushi roll in the shape of a triangle the size of your fist. Two of these should be plenty for a day on the hill, and the options include veggie, salmon, even fried chicken with mayo. Okinomiyaki: These Japanese savoury pancakes are not only delicious, they offer an interactive dining experience. Construct your own pancake at Bos and have them cooked right in front of you. Ramen: This traditional dish is a darn good meal in the middle of a ski day. Just inside resort boundaries at Hakuba Goryu, you’ll find a funky, family-owned wooden lodge and some of the best ramen of your whole trip. Onsens: If you’re a fan of the hot tub after a long day on the slopes, you’ll love the onsens. Swap out chlorinated tubs for mineral-rich bathing pools and you have an onsen—a traditional Japanese bath house using naturally-heated water from geothermal hot springs. Scattered slopeside and all over town, onsens have many health benefits, especially after a hard day's riding.
SAFETY The hazards of backcountry travel are very real. Foreign terrain features and never-ending snowfall require complex navigational skills to get through it all. Just as the good terrain is right around the corner from the lift-accessed terrain, so is the dangerous terrain. Whether you plan to ride out of bounds or not, always bring your avalanche safety gear and ride with a knowledgeable crew. Not experienced in backcountry travel? This is where the Extremely Canadian tour really pays off. Guided trips like these are led by experienced backcountry enthusiasts who have perfected their navigation of the terrain and are quick to share their expertise with guests. Also worth mentioning, the guides have familiarity with navigating cultural experiences and, perhaps most importantly, the dining opportunities.
FOOD Hakuba offers a wide range of dining options, from grab ‘n’ go, to some of the most delicious ramen in the world right on the side of the hill. Here are my favourites:
Onsen etiquette: • • •
No swimsuits—treat the onsen like your baththub at home. Would you go in there with a swimsuit? Leave the beers at home—an onsen does not have the same party vibe as your typical western hot tub Always wash before entering the onsen
*Note: some onsens do not allow people with tattoos. Always check with the management for their rules, as they change depending on location.
As I returned home with an undeniable hangover from an amazing
trip, people asked me “How was Japan?” My answer was always, “Better than I could have ever imagined.” In a world where we are always looking for more—Japan was a welcome reminder that expectations are rarely conducive to good times. If you're receptive and willing to be surprised, you'll find doors opening to adventure and culture that will delight even the most seasoned mountain traveller. But yeah, bring a snorkel.
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Munster making it look easy, busting out a big ol’ whip in the Whistler backcountry.
Q&A
ANDREW MUNSTER Sledder/Innovator/Entrepreneur
words :: Jennifer Godbout photos :: Sam Standing
Evel Knievel or Houdini? We aren’t sure. Can you spot the take-off? Munster sending it like a boss in the Whistler backcountry.
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“M
unster is genius with a screw loose!” says Cody McNolty, trying to sum up and describe one of his closest friends. When you watch any of the numerous snowmobile videos Andrew Munster stars in, it’s easy to recognize he’s neither an average sledder, nor an average guy. Don’t let the polished 1969 C30 Cummins sitting in front of his place fool you, Munster doesn’t spend all his time in the garage—just a lot of it. When he’s not restoring rad trucks, he’s playing entrepreneur for his business MUNSTER—engineering new products he’s dreamed up to improve the overall performance of his sled. And when he’s not doing that, he’s deep in the backcountry playing his part in setting the bar for sledding: massive drops, technical tree riding, and big ol’ whips. You should never judge a book by its cover, so we took a shot at getting to know this modern-day Evel Knievel the old fashioned way: we sat down and fed him random and un-related questions. Enjoy.
MOUNTAIN LIFE: DO YOU BELIEVE IN IN LUCK OR FATE? Andrew Munster: If I had to pick one, I would say fate, although I don’t believe in any higher power. I believe in science and that everything happens by the physical interactions of cause and effect. For that reason, everything will unfold as it will, and our inability to predict the future gives the perception of luck and choice. ML: WHAT HAVE YOU ACHIEVED THAT YOU ARE MOST PROUD OF? Andrew: Starting my company from the ground up is the achievement I am most proud of. ML: HAVE YOU EVER DONE YOGA TO IMPRESS A GIRL? Andrew: I have never attempted yoga. If I ever did, I think the only girl it would impress is my mother. ML: WHO TAUGHT YOU TO SLED? WAS IT LOVE AT FIRST THROTTLE? Andrew: In 2005 Steve Wheeler (from No Limits Motorsports) and I bought our first sleds together. It was definitely love at first throttle, even though we did about 10 times more digging that year than riding. The learning curve of sledding has been exponential, and we have been hooked ever since. ML: HOW DO YOU MAKE DECISIONS ON WHAT IS SAFE? Andrew: Risk assessment is very important in all aspects of riding. You end up acquiring a pretty good sense of your environment after being in the mountains for so many years, but in the end it all comes down to risk versus reward. Risk is a combination of two things: bad possible outcomes and the probability of those outcomes taking place. When you do something that has a low probable outcome enough times, it eventually becomes probable. The more you know about yourself and your environment, the more accurately you can assess the risks. The unknown is always risky. ML: WHAT LIFE GOAL DO YOU WANT TO ACHIEVE THAT YOU HAVEN’T YET?
Andrew: I would like to invent something that the world can benefit from. ML: IS THERE LIFE AFTER SLEDDING? Andrew: I plan to continue sledding as long as my body allows it. I know some 70+ year-old men that still rip on a snowmobile ML: CAN YOU SUSTAIN YOUR BODY WITH ALL THE IMPACTS? Andrew: My window of progression is definitely limited, and I will capitalize on that while I can. My body can only sustain impacts for so many years, but jumping only makes up a quarter of my overall passion for sledding. Deep snow, tree riding and exploring the mountains make up the other three quarters, and I will continue to enjoy those aspects of riding until the bitter end. ML: HOW LONG CAN YOU STAY RELEVANT IN THE INDUSTRY? Andrew: As for my career, I plan to keep growing my company and continue to bring product to the industry that makes the sledding experience more enjoyable. I guess the company is my way of staying relevant and I’m driven to stay in the game as long as my passion for sledding continues. ML: WHAT CREW DO YOU LOVE TO RIDE WITH? Andrew: My core riding crew would have to be Steve Wheeler, Wilson Prewitt, Sam Standing and Cody McNolty. There was a golden year, in 2013, when the four of us would ride together almost every day. We all pushed each other that year and our progression really showed. Even though it’s rare now that we all get out together, those four will always be my favourite riding buddies. ML: WHAT’S THE BEST LIFE ADVICE YOU HAVE EVER BEEN GIVEN? Andrew: Do what you love. ML: WHAT’S THE LAST THING YOU COOKED IN AN OVEN? Andrew: One of the products I sell requires shrink sleeve to be heated over the wires during assembly. The easiest way to shrink them is in the kitchen oven. Oddly enough that’s the last thing I cooked.
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The Gitwinksihlkw suspension bridge has connected villages across the Nass River for over 400 years. This is the most recently-built version.
CONNIE AZAK
A RIVER RUNS THROUGH kwhlixhoosa’anskw (respect) words :: Abby Cooper
R
hythmic raindrops pounded on the truck’s canopy. Wet snow avalanches growled down the slopes, and the river echoed its roar— evidence the Nass Valley’s spirit was very alive. According to the Nisga’a people, K’alii-Aksim-Lisims (the Nass River, one of BC’s richest river systems) is as much a part of them as their own flesh and blood, flowing through their land and lives. It is said that each curve and turn of the Nass River’s slithering waterway follows the path of Txeemsim’s journey. Legend has it that Txeemsim was the grandson of K'am Ligihahlhaahl (Chief of Heavens) and was sent to help the ancestors of the land. This particular adaawak (traditional histories about the people and the Nass Valley), tells that the ancestors lived in disorder, confusion, constant fear of starvation, and in only moonlight or semi-darkness. Txeemsim, once he learned how
to share his knowledge and supernatural powers, brought offerings of sunlight, tides, mountains, animals, fire, and the Nass River. There are thousands of beautiful Nisga’a adaawak telling stories and answering questions about all that inhabit the land—from plants, to people, to the waters, and the animals. While many are set aside to only be told and passed down by the elders, stories and whispers of untapped ski opportunities was what led us to this sacred land. BC’s Highway 113 is a ski tourer’s dream; an untouched version of Roger’s Pass or the Duffey Lake Road—ripe for first ascents on unnamed peaks. We’d arrived with dreams of deep northern BC pow and one first ascent in particular, yet possibly by request of Chief of Heavens, K'am Ligihahlhaahl, we had instead been presented with buckets and buckets of rain in our tight weather window.
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LEFT Cultural art of the Nisga’a First Nations. Each totem tells a list of crests.
The precipitation and mild temperatures had chased us from the peaks of the Nass Valley but we would not give up the opportunity to feel the spirit of the land. We swapped under layers for bathing suits and ventured into the lush rainforest in search of sacred hot pools. According to Nisga’a First Nations, these spaces have incredible healing capabilities. We pushed some brush aside to reveal a warm oasis beckoning us to leave our soggy reality behind and take a dip into history. Observing nature’s chaos from the cedar-lined tubs of the Aiyansh Hot Springs while soaking in her serenity reminded us that we were not in charge, but simply there to appreciate what is shared with us—a shift in perspective in a place known for giving just that. Slowing down was a gift from the rain. It provided us time to connect to the land and the valley. We were no longer only fixated on the mountain peaks that were hidden in the sky. And so, with silt-covered feet and a lightness in our bodies, we made our way back to the truck. The Nigsa’a people have always focused on preserving the wild elements of the Nass, learning to prosper from her natural beauty. Recently they’ve put steps in motion to share the region’s magic with visitors through tourism. It took over a century for a treaty to be signed between the federal and provincial governments and Nigsa’a Nation. Now unified, the governing bodies have started to develop tourism and the opening
ABBY COOPER. TOP RIGHT & BOTTOM RIGHT Nisga’a First Nations of all generations, youth and elder. TALON GILLIS
of the Aiyansh Hot Springs to the public is a sign of their efforts. We felt honoured to be among some of the first ‘tourists’ to share and enjoy such a beautiful and historic zone. And with the rainstorm showing no signs of letting up, we said farewell and continued north.
BC’s Highway 113 is a ski tourer’s dream; an untouched version of Roger’s Pass or the Duffey Lake Road—ripe for first ascents on unnamed peaks. Our next stop is Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park (Anhluut’ukwsim Laxmihl Nisga’a), where one of the youngest volcanoes in Canada lies. The volcano itself is only accessible in the summer months with a guide, but the basalt fields that sweep the valley floor are open for endless wandering. The land offers an unwavering reminder that nothing is forever, and everything is fragile—263 years ago, the volcano’s last eruption took the lives of 2000 valley residents. At the edge of the lava bed, we were drawn to the Nass River’s turquoise colour—the hues amplified by the rockyedged black borders. For 400 years, there has been a suspension bridge that spans the river and links Gitwinksihlkw, one of the four Nisga’a
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HADLEY HAMMER
DREW SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY
CHAMONIX FRANCE
NEW BACKCOUNTRY COLLECTION
River crossing along the way to the Cambria Icefield.
villages together. Now a landmark, the bridge was once the only gateway to cross the powerful Nass River to Gitwinksihlkw. Each encounter with Nisga’a history made us feel more connected to the Nass’s spirit. Although gratified by the time spent here, curiosity still swirled inside us. Thirsty for more, we began researching the headwaters of the Nass River. What ominous power could fuel the river to carve a valley so deep and a culture so in tune with its strength?
We were not the first to travel this icy gem, but it was easy to feel alone, isolated, and at the mercy of the glacier’s movements and awe-inspiring force. On the advice of some locals, we pushed north in hopes of cooler temperatures and more stable snow. The Cambria Icefield was the next destination—one of the biggest contributors to the Nass headwaters. From our new base in Stewart BC, we would trace one of the Nass Rivers’ points of origin and see the glaciers that fuel it.
ABBY COOPER
Powder, stability and visibility greeted us as we prepared to climb, explore, and ski the icefield. The Cambria landscape felt immense and boundless. Sitting atop a mountainous throne, the glacier reaches north towards the Alaskan ocean shore where it spills down to the BC valley. To the south, ruptured icefalls drain into the waterway feeding the mighty Nass River. We were not the first to travel this icy gem, but it was easy to feel alone, isolated, and at the mercy of the glacier’s movements and awe-inspiring force. Navigating the fractured curves of the Cambria Icefield on skis gave us the experience we had wanted all along. There was no conquering to be done in the Nass, only the gift of feeling her liveliness. It wasn’t the bragging rights of a first ascent, it was the chance to ski the untamable. An opportunity to feel, to marvel, to connect with and to respect the beautiful power and calm that is an adventure in the great outdoors. “One heart, one path, one nation.” – the Nisga’a Nation nisgaanation.ca
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Skiers Chris Rubens and Mike Douglas boot pack up a steep Greenland couloir above the ice sheet.
THE CLIMATE ACTIVIST’S ROADMAP How you can join the charge towards positive action words :: Brooke Jackson photos :: Bruno Long
I
magine Canada without winter—bleak mountainscapes with no trace of snow, abandoned ski lodges, and winter enthusiasts in withdrawal from never-again powder days. Snowboarder and two-time Olympian Elena Hight doesn’t have to imagine. She says, “Spending so much time in nature, I see the effects of climate change firsthand, year after year, getting more dramatic and more detrimental. I truly believe that climate change is the apex issue of our generation.” On a global scale, receding winters produce a dangerous aftermath; hurricanes, floods, heat waves, droughts, and wildfires—all related to the global climate crisis. And according to Hight (and almost all the world’s top scientists) the time to act is now. To create a dedicated platform for positive climate action within the snow sports world, professional snowboarder Jeremy Jones organized the non-profit Protect Our Winters (POW) in 2007. POW’s mission is to turn passionate outdoors people into climate activists. As an involved member of POW, Hight says, “Taking a stance on climate change is about more than just saving winter, it’s about saving our planet as we know it today.” Lower snowfall ultimately leads to a melting industry, too. With the aim to reach a broader audience beyond those involved in outdoor sports–and to translate just how large an impact losing winter would have economically in the United States, POW and the National Resources Defense Council (NRDC) commissioned a study to uncover cold (or should we say warming), hard facts. Summarizing the findings, which were released in February 2018, the study discovered an average increase in winter temperatures of roughly 1.22 degrees Celsius between December and February since 1970, with the strongest warming trends occurring in the northern regions. According to this study, higher temperatures and low snowfalls have resulted in losses of 1.07 billion dollars in the downhill ski resort industry over the past 11 years. What about the effects in Canada? That’s where a small group of athletes and outdoor adventure devotees come in—including Mike Douglas,
Marie-France Roy, Dr. Daniel Scott and Dave Erb. Led by Erb, a longtime supporter of Jones’s POW organization, the group has furthered the climate activism platform by starting an independent Canadian POW chapter. The new organization launched this fall, seeking to rally outdoor recreationalists and give them a voice for positive climate action on Canadian soil. Erb says the newly-formed chapter shares the same mission and vision as POW US, but will operate ‘independently’ from Jones’s original organization with resources staying within Canadian borders. To determine the large-scale effects of climate change in Canada, a key goal for the new POW chapter is to perform an economic study similar to the one summarized above and performed by the US organization. Joining the newly-formed POW chapter board is Dr. Scott, Executive Director of the Interdisciplinary Centre on Climate Change. Erb says performing the study is an “easy way to depoliticize” the conversation around the effects of climate change on the country, because “although 98% of the global science community agrees that climate change is real and caused by humans, it’s still a hot button issue in politics, in part because it’s a complex issue... but talking about the economy is safe and familiar territory.” The translation of how climate change affects how many dollar bills are landing in people’s pockets is a powerful first step toward communicating to the large scale policymakers the necessity to get on board with positive environmental initiatives. The prominent message of Jones and his warrior tribe of activists, whether Canadian or international, is simple: we all need winter. Warmer winters have ripple effects—whether skier or kayaker, hiker or fisher– and Erb urges that if the call for climate policies isn’t addressed, “We won’t be worried about powder days, tourism or having fun. We’ll be worried about the stability of our environment, our jobs and our economy.” With guidelines provided by the newly-launched Canada POW’s website, here is the climate activist roadmap for getting involved in the stand for positive action:
ABOVE Base camp in Greenland. BELOW Chris Rubens in Revelstoke Mountain Resort, BC, Canada.
EDUCATE YOURSELF Knowledge is power. Stay up to date on the latest climate change policies, initiatives and impacts. Recommended by POW, the Climate Atlas of Canada is a great place to start. Learn more about the research-driven website which translates the global issue to a localized scale by visiting: climateatlas.ca
CHANGE YOUR WAYS Actions speak louder than words. Reducing your carbon footprint by 20% each year can be achieved by eating less red meat, taking public transportation and minimizing energy consumption at home. Hight says, “I always carry reusable cups, water bottles and cutlery. I avoid single-use plastics and I recycle. I purchase carbon offsets for all my airline travel. Most importantly though, I get out to vote.”
LEAD OTHERS TO DO THE SAME Every voice counts in making change. From sharing credible research on your social media channels to joining a local march, or talking with friends and family members about climate activism—it all makes a difference. Ways to get your community involved can be writing a letter to the editor of the local newspaper or organizing a POW night. The more people who know, the stronger the impact becomes.
GET INVOLVED The best way people can help is to get involved. Erb describes the new Canadian POW chapter as “A grassroots organization—and we need support.” POW Canada is seeking to engage local communities and create regional chapters. With a focus on building a strong membership base, POW Canada hopes to gather enough voices to become an influential organization and to get research in front of the right people to make impactful change.
If you are this far into this magazine it’s highly likely you too enjoy, winter, snow and fun. So it’s on you to help save these things! Here are a few ways to get involved with POW Canada: • Become a member! Sign up at protectourwinters.ca • Attend events such as the Fall Launch Party in partnership with MEC: October 27, 2018 @ MEC Toronto King Street store from 8-10:30 pm October 28, 2018 @ MEC Montreal from 6-8:30 pm November 17, 2018 @ MEC Vancouver from 5:30-8:30 pm November 18, 2018 @ MEC Calgary from 5:30-8:30 pm Organize a “Hot Planet, Cool Athletes” program at a local school protectourwinters.ca/programs-events
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ph: Jeff Bartlett & Dave Best
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FROZEN FREEDOM Outdoor ice and the Canadian identity words :: Feet Banks
A
s children growing up in Canada, many of us got our first taste of freedom on a bicycle. For my generation it was likely a single-speed Norco, maybe with a banana seat. Suddenly, we could explore the world far beyond our parents’ gaze. But biking in the snow sucks. So for five to eight months of the year (depending how far into the Great White North home sat), the freedom of pedal exploration was replaced with the raw joy of ripping a toboggan down a steep hill—generally (ideally) just a little past the edge of out of control. But despite these youthful thrills, ice skating under the open sky is where the Canadian childhood truly climaxes. There’s something unifying about a sheet of open ice—kids, adults, neighbours, community… in Canada, everyone bonds around the rink. And ice is plentiful in rural areas (where there often isn’t much else going on when it’s -20 degrees Celcius). Ponds and lakes are playgrounds waiting to be shoveled while in the city someone must build that ice up layer by layer. Either way it takes effort, time, care, and passion—the ice creaking, groaning, breathing with the rise and fall of the temperature and humidity. (And I don’t care who you are, that deep reverberating cracking sound of the ice below you settling will always cause your heart to do a triple Salchow.) Who can forget the tingling finger burn of pulling skate laces tight in subzero temperatures? And the sound of cold steel carving into a fresh surface of ice is as unique as it is beautiful. It’s the sound of momentum, power and grace. Of speed and control and joy. And of course, ice means hockey. Like most of Canada, hockey was practically a religion growing up in northern British Columbia in the 1970s and 80s. Hockey cards were the currency of choice at the elementary schools, and Saturday nights belonged to “the game” on the CBC
Magic happens when there’s a dump of snow in the valley, it’s -20 degrees Celcius, and the sun is about to set. An unplanned walk led me to this rink on Alta Lake. A crew of guys were packing up for the day. One of them stayed to just skate around. I asked him for permission to take photos, explaining how amazing the light was with only a little bit of fog around. There is something truly Canadian about pond hockey in the freezing cold, especially in a town where most of us chase the powder in the mountains. –JUSTA JESKOVA
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(pulled out of the air on a giant antenna bolted to the roof of the house). If you didn’t play hockey, you played ringette—which is pretty much exactly like hockey but with a ring instead of a puck. And if you didn’t play ringette you played broomball—essentially hockey without skates, in a parking lot, and you’re almost too drunk to stand up. Broomball was an adult game; kids played hockey. But I didn’t, and I couldn’t. We lived way outside of town at the end of a dirt road to nowhere—it would have been a 90-minute round trip to practice. Besides, what money my parents did have was squirreled away for our annual week-long ski trip to Smithers. Organized ice hockey just wasn’t an option for me. But that road to nowhere actually ended at a lake: a 70-mile long, almost unpopulated lake that would freeze every winter thick enough to drive a truck on. And I think my dad felt a bit bad about my lack of hockey options, because he kept an Olympic-sized sheet of ice shoveled out in front of our house. The winters were so cold back then the snow would fall dry and light and each morning my dad would put on his skates and clear the rink, gliding back and forth in perfect lines, shovel angled just so.
Exploring our amazing backcountry leads to inspiration and ideas. I ventured out to this ice cave that I had visited many times before. Every year it’s different—sometimes it’s snowed in and not accessible, other times the walls have completely collapsed. This time, the cave had a layer of the smoothest and clearest frozen water I had ever seen. The rocks and boulders that normally inhabit the floor of these caves were two to three feet under ice. The first thought in my mind was, “We need to play hockey in here! This will never happen again.” Two weeks later I was working on a winter tourism shoot and I made the crew strap skates and sticks to the sleds instead of skis and snowboards—and we created some amazing and uniquely Canadian imagery. –BLAKE JORGENSON
We had firewood rounds for goal posts (that doubled as stools for lacing your skates) and a couple two-by-sixes for end boards that helped everyone hone their accuracy pretty quick. Miss the end boards and fwoop!—your puck was lost in the snow. Of course, there were only four kids within 10 miles, so our hockey games were unconventional and short-lived. Instead, we’d spend most of the days on the lake pushing shovels to create mazes and virtual worlds out of trails in snow—push, glide, and create. Or we’d skate for miles, across the lake to check out the islands, over to the abandoned fishing resort, or back to someone’s house for lunch. In spring, everyone living along the lake would put ten bucks in and bet on what day the ice would break up. Kids would be banned from the ice after that, and when breakup day did finally arrive, the wind would push huge ice sheets ashore into precarious frozen lean-tos that everyone’s mom said to stay out of but no one ever did. As the lean-tos collapsed and shattered, the lakeshore would come alive, the waves pushing up knee-deep berms of perfect ice cubes that the dads would scoop into their rye and cokes at the first bonfire of the year. And that would be it—that fire meant the end of the ice, the winter and the freedom to glide and slide, shoot and score, or land that double. The next morning most of us would go get the bike out of the shed and hope the trail wasn’t as muddy as last year. – 75 –
It’s early December in the Kootenays, and most outdoors folk and families are anxiously waiting for enough snow to hit the slopes. It’s usually only Ontario transplants like myself who hope for extended clear skies and a deep freeze so we can get conditions like this on the local ponds. The only other time we get nearly as excited is when the Leafs make a big trade. Here, our family is a couple of hours into some smooth ice action on Cottonwood Lake, above our place in Nelson, BC. Not everyone had the stamina for overtime. –STEVE OGLE
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The Good Cheer ice rink in Harrison Park is a mainstay of Owen Sound, ON; odd-numbered days are for hockey, even days for pleasure and family skating. The idyllic location is nearly right downtown on the Sydenham River. It's free to skate here, there are night lights and a friendly vibe around the rink at all times. Many a kid has slapped a puck here with dreams of one day playing for the Owen Sound Attack—sometimes those dreams become reality. –COLIN FIELD
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THE HEART OF WINTER THE ROAD TO A MILLION NEW VISITS BUSTING THE MYTH OF THE HIGH-PRICED SPORT
L'ESSENCE DE L'HIVER LA ROUTE VERS UN MILLION DE NOUVELLES VISITES LA DESTRUCTION DU MYTHE DES SPORTS COÛTEUX
PLUS OLYMPIAN RONI REMME INFLUENCER: POWDER MATT CSC PROGRAM SNAPSHOT
DE PLUS RONI REMME, ATHLÈTE OLYMPIQUE INFLUENCEUR : POWDER MATT APERÇU DES PROGRAMMES DU CONSEIL CANADIEN DU SKI Allie Smart in Whistler. Photo by Mark Going / Allie Smart à Whistler. Photo par Mark Going.
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
Photo by Reuben Krabbe courtesy of Sunshine Village / Photo par Reuben Krabbe offerte par Sunshine Village
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
A Reason to Play BY PAUL PINCHBECK, CANADIAN SKI COUNCIL PRESIDENT AND CEO
Welcome to the best winter of your life! Canada is a place where our winter instincts call on us to hunker down and urge us to hibernate. A quick listen to the weather media would have us staying inside from November until May. But instead of giving in to the winter blues, we go out in search of the adventure and personal accomplishments. We see the snow as an exciting escape, a reason to play instead of pout. An excuse to explore the Great White Wonders together. Because winter is easier — and a lot more fun — when we have our friends, our family, and our community by our side.
We see the snow as an exciting escape, a reason to play instead of pout.
Whether you’re a first-timer or a life-timer to Canadian winters, enjoying winter and finding your own niche is easy. It is not just about the deep powder or the steep drops. You’ll find it in the snow, somewhere on the hills, or in the mountains. You’ll catch it in the glades as easily as on the bunny hill; under the chairlifts as much as on them. It’s attainable the moment you learn to slide on snow.
We know how your ear-to-ear smile gives way to an uncontrollable feeling of freedom as you rush down the slopes. The way you ski or ride is as individual as your style, but skiing and snowboarding is a collective experience that binds us closer together, connects us with some of the most beautiful landscapes in the country, and supports our cultural identity and Canadian pride. We encourage you to express it, celebrate it, and pass it along every chance you get.
UNE RAISON DE JOUER PAR PAUL PINCHBECK, PRÉSIDENT ET CHEF DE LA DIRECTION DU CONSEIL CANADIEN DU SKI Bienvenue au meilleur hiver de votre vie! Au Canada, notre instinct hivernal nous amène à nous abriter et à hiberner. Si nous écoutions quelques instants la chaîne météo, nous resterions à l’intérieur de novembre à mai. Mais, plutôt que de se laisser déprimer, nous sortons à la recherche d’aventures et de réalisations personnelles. Nous voyons la neige comme une évasion emballante, une raison de jouer, plutôt que de bouder. Une excuse pour explorer ensemble les grandes merveilles blanches. Parce que l’hiver se vit plus facilement – et est beaucoup plus plaisant – en compagnie de nos amis, de notre famille et de notre collectivité.
Nous voyons la neige comme une évasion emballante, une raison de jouer, plutôt que de bouder.
Que vous n’ayez encore jamais vécu un hiver canadien ou que vous en soyez un grand habitué, il est facile de profiter de l’hiver et de trouver ce qui vous fait vibrer. Il ne s’agit pas seulement de poudreuse en abondance ou de dépressions abruptes. Vous le trouverez dans la neige, quelque part sur les pentes ou dans les montagnes. Vous le ressentirez dans le sous-bois comme sur la pente pour débutants, sous les remonte-pentes autant que sur ceux-ci. Cet instant où vous apprenez à glisser sur la neige est atteignable.
Nous savons à quel point votre sourire fendu jusqu’aux oreilles communique un sentiment incontrôlable de liberté quand vous descendez les pentes à vive allure. La façon dont vous skiez ou surfez est aussi unique que votre style, mais le ski et le surf des neiges représentent une expérience collective qui nous rapproche, qui nous fait découvrir certains des paysages les plus merveilleux au pays et qui soutient notre identité culturelle et notre fierté canadienne. Nous vous invitons à l’exprimer, à la célébrer et à la transmettre chaque fois que vous en avez l’occasion.
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
Influencer Interview
Entrevue avec un influenceur
“This feeling of wings”: Powder Matt on why we should ski more
« L’impression d’avoir des ailes » : Powder Matt explique la raison pour laquelle nous devrions skier plus souvent
Sometimes, a name says it all. For Powder Matt, his life’s calling is
Il arrive qu’un nom veuille tout dire. « Powder » Matt a trouvé sa vocation
front-loaded. “From my first day on skis,” he says, “I felt a freedom
bien tôt. « Dès ma première journée de ski, j’ai ressenti un sentiment
like no other. I think this simple feeling is even more important today.
de liberté incomparable, dit-il. Je crois que ce simple sentiment est en-
I am grateful for this sport as not only has it provided me incredible
core plus présent aujourd’hui. Je suis reconnaissant à ce sport, car il m’a
friends, but also this feeling of wings.”
donné des amis incroyables, mais aussi l’impression d’avoir des ailes. »
“Powder” Matt Mosteller refers to himself as a lifelong ski bum—and his
Powder Matt Mosteller, qui se décrit lui-même comme un « skieur
bona fide credentials include spending 63 days living in his car at the
bohème » depuis toujours, a déjà fait la folie de passer 63 jours à vivre
bottom of the mountain so he could ski every day. But unlike a true ski
dans sa voiture au pied de la montagne afin de pouvoir skier chaque
bum, he does have a job—as Senior Vice President, Resorts of the Cana-
jour. Mais, contrairement à un véritable « skieur bohème », il travaille :
dian Rockies. He’s also a renowned adventurer, blogger, and author of
il est vice-président principal aux Resorts of the Canadian Rockies. Il
the book The Adventurer’s Guide to Living a Happy Life.
est aussi un célèbre aventurier et bloggeur, en plus d’être l’auteur du
livre The Adventurer’s Guide to Living a Happy Life.
A short conversation with Powder
Matt reveals his profound con-
Une brève conversation avec Powder Matt révèle son lien profond avec
nection to the world of skiing. To
le monde du ski. Pour lui, c’est plus qu’une vocation; c’est une force pour
him it’s more than a vocation; it’s
le bien dans le monde. « Aucun endroit ne rassemble mieux les gens
a force for good in the world. “No
que la montagne, explique-t-il. Tout ce que vous faites quand vous skiez
place brings people together
(et surfez) est social, des montées en remonte-pente aux histoires que
better than mountain time,” he
vous racontez à la fin de la journée. C’est vraiment un sport qui met des
says. “Everything you do in skiing (and snowboarding) is social, from
étrangers en contact et ces étrangers deviennent des amis pour la vie. »
the chairlift to sharing tales at the end of the day. It truly is a sport that
connects strangers and those strangers become friends for life.”
Et comme si ce n’était pas suffisant, Powder Matt ajoute ce qui suit : « La
confiance est si essentielle aux jeunes de nos jours, et elle se fait rare en
As if that’s not enough, Powder Matt adds: “Confidence is so vital for
milieu urbain. Mais, il n’y a rien de mieux que le plein air pour accroître
youth today and it is tough to come by in urban environment. But get-
votre confiance naturellement et vous permettre d’évacuer le stress quo-
ting outside is the perfect place for play that builds confidence naturally
tidien, de vous rafraîchir, ainsi que de faire le plein de cette énergie vitale
and provides ways for you to release the everyday stresses—refreshing
nécessaire dans la vie de tous les jours. »
you and filling you with that vital energy needed for regular life.”
En conclusion, voici le message qu’il souhaite transmettre aux profanes :
His parting words go out to the uninitiated: “Try this sport—it is much
« Essayez ce sport – c’est beaucoup plus facile que ce que vous pensez,
easier than you think, and you’ll be amazed by the joy it will bring your
et vous serez étonné de la joie qu’il vous procurera. » @PowderMatt
life.” @PowderMatt
Four places Powder Matt goes to feel the magic
Quatre endroits où se rend Powder Matt pour s’imprégner de la magie du sport :
•
Top of Kicking Horse Mountain Resort: “freedom.”
•
Sommet de Kicking Horse Mountain Resort : « Liberté ».
•
Polar Peak, Fernie: “peace.”
•
Polar Peak, à Fernie : « Paix ».
•
In the trees, Kimberley: “forest refresh.”
•
Dans le sous-bois, à Kimberley: « Fraîcheur forestière ».
•
BC’s Powder Highway, anywhere in a backcountry cabin
•
Dans un chalet de l’autoroute de la poudreuse en
or lodge: “free minds and soul-filled goodness.”
Colombie-Britannique : « Esprit libre et bonté d’âme ».
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
Photo courtesy of Matt Mosteller / Photo offerte par Matt Mosteller
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
Photo by John Antoniuk courtesy of Revelstoke Mountain Resort / Photo par John Antoniuk offerte par Revelstoke Mountain Resort
CSC Programs Snapshot
The goal of the Canadian Ski Council, simply stated, is to increase participation in recreational snowboarding, alpine, and cross-country skiing in Canada. So how do we do that?
As we move forward into next year and beyond, our focus is on growing the national awareness of Never Ever Days. The Canadian Ski Coun-
One of the ways is to offer Canadians—in particular, young beginners—
cil is currently engaged with the Institute of Canadian Citizenship to
the best deal in the known universe for learning how to ski and snowboard.
ensure that the NED program makes it into the Cultural Access Pass
Now in its 21st thriving season, the Grade 4 & 5 SnowPass™ lets kids ski and
(CAP). The CAP is given to over 40,000 new citizens each year.
snowboard three times at each participating ski area for $29.95. Its goal is to introduce 9 and 10-year-olds to snow sports, and it’s definitely doing that. Last season, the total number of children who received a SnowPass was 35,299,
The Grade 4 & 5 SnowPass™ lets 9 and
up 7% over the previous year. The program even received a SnowKidz
10-year-old kids ski and snowboard three times
Award from FIS for one of the best “Learn to Ski/Snowboard” initiatives for
at each participating ski area for $29.95
children, placing seventh in the world. Another way we aim to increase participation is through Never Ever Days—
Canadian winters are special and we’re doing our part to ensure every-
for those who have “never, ever” tried skiing or snowboarding. This is the
one – from young children just learning how to slide, to new Canadians
ultimate beginners’ package, providing first-timers with everything they
trying to understand our cultures and traditions, to the skiers and snow-
need: equipment, a beginner lift ticket, and a lesson, for only $25 (+tax). Last
boarders still trying to find their way – has an opportunity to experience
season, over 80 ski areas across Canada offered Never Ever Days (NED),
what makes being on the snow so unbelievably fun.
with 6,000 lessons delivered.
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
Aperçu des programmes du Conseil canadien du ski En termes simples, le but du Conseil canadien du ski (CCS) est d’augmenter le nombre de personnes qui font du ski alpin, du surf des neiges ou du ski de fond en tant qu’activité récréative au Canada. Donc, comment nous y prenons-nous?
d’équipement, un billet de remontée pour débutant et une leçon, et ce, moyennant seulement 25 $ (+ taxes). La saison dernière, plus de 80 stations
Une des façons consiste à offrir aux Canadiens – aux jeunes débutants
de ski au Canada ont offert les forfaits Ma première fois, pour un total de
en particulier – la meilleure affaire de tout l’univers en ce qui concerne
6 000 leçons.
l’apprentissage du ski et du surf des neiges. Le Passeport des neiges 4e et 5e annéesMC, qui en est à sa 21e saison cette année, permet aux enfants de
À mesure de notre progression au cours des années à venir, nous veille-
skier et de surfer 3 fois à chacune des stations de ski participantes pour
rons à mieux faire connaître le programme Ma première fois à l’échelle
29,95 $. Il vise à initier les enfants de 9 et de 10 ans aux sports de glisse, et
nationale. Le CCS collabore actuellement avec l’Institut pour la citoy-
il parvient avec brio. La saison dernière, le nombre d’enfants qui ont reçu
enneté canadienne afin de s’assurer que le programme est intégré au
le Passeport des neiges totalisait 35 299, une hausse de 7 % par rapport à
Laissez-passer culturel. Ce dernier est remis à plus de 40 000 nouveaux
l’année précédente. Le programme a même reçu un prix SnowKidz de la
citoyens chaque année.
FIS en tant que l’une des meilleures initiatives d’apprentissage du ski et du
surf des neiges à l’intention des enfants, se classant septième au monde.
Les hivers canadiens sont spéciaux, et nous faisons notre part pour nous assurer que toute la population, des jeunes enfants qui commencent
Le programme Ma première fois, qui s’adresse à ceux qui n’ont encore ja-
tout juste à apprendre à glisser aux nouveaux Canadiens qui tentent de
mais essayé le ski ou le surf des neiges, est une autre des initiatives que
comprendre notre culture et nos traditions et aux skieurs et planchistes
nous avons mises en place pour augmenter le nombre de participants à
qui ont toujours un peu de difficulté à maîtriser nos sports, a l’occasion
nos sports. Il représente le summum des forfaits pour débutants, offrant
de faire l’expérience de ce qui rend la pratique d’un sport sur la neige si
tout le nécessaire aux petits nouveaux pour une première visite : la location
incroyablement amusante.
Photo courtesy of Amy McDermid / Photo offerte par Amy McDermid
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
The Myth of the High-priced Sport 3 tips to ski/snowboard cheaper
Le mythe des sports coûteux
3 conseils pour skier ou surfer à petit prix
Photo courtesy of Powder King Mountain Resort / Photo offerte par Powder King Mountain Resort
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature Q: Is skiing/snowboarding an expensive sport?
Q. : Est-ce que le ski et le surf des neiges sont des sports coûteux?
A: Not if you make savvy spending choices.
R. : Pas si vous faites des choix avisés.
With a little research and selective focus, we believe skiing/snowboarding
Si vous faites quelques recherches et vous montrez sélectif, nous sommes
may be cheaper than other sports and that’s due to the sheer amount of
d’avis que le ski et le surf des neiges peuvent être moins coûteux que d’autres
options. I.e., there are lots of resorts to choose from and more gear options
sports, et ce, simplement vu le nombre d’options disponibles. Par exemple,
than you can shake a ski pole at. Here, we’ve gathered some intel on how to
il existe une myriade de stations de ski et d’options d’équipement. Nous
ski/snowboard smarter.
avons regroupé ici des renseignements sur la façon de skier et de surfer de façon intelligente.
1.
Use numbers to your advantage. Got kids? All resorts offer bargains to get entire families together on their slopes. Many include
1.
Utilisez les nombres à votre avantage. Vous avez des enfants?
“Kids Ski Free” incentives if you buy adult lift tickets or a youth
Toutes les stations offrent des affaires pour rassembler les familles sur
rental package. (Some of these will be limited-time offers, so check
les pentes. Bon nombre offrent des incitatifs du genre « Les enfants
the resort website well in advance of your visit.) There’s also the
skient gratuitement » si vous achetez des billets de remontée pour
Grade 4 & 5 SnowPass, which allows 9- and 10-year-olds to ski and
adulte ou un forfait de location pour jeune. (Dans certaines stations, il
snowboard 3 times at each of the 150+ participating ski areas!
s’agit d’offres de durée limitée, donc consultez le site Web de la station avant votre visite.) Il y a aussi le Passeport des neiges 4e et 5e années,
2.
Think smaller. Remember that cool little resort a friend told you
qui permet aux enfants de 9 et de 10 ans de skier et de surfer 3 fois à
about, but you have yet to visit? Chances are, the lift tickets, rentals,
chacune des plus de 150 stations de ski participantes!
and accommodation will be better-priced than at a massive destination resort. Plus, you get the cachet of skiing/snowboarding at
2.
a niche mountain where all the powder isn’t shredded by 9:30am.
Visez petit. Vous vous souvenez de cette mignonne petite station dont un ami vous a parlé, mais que vous n’avez pas encore visitée? Il est bien probable que les billets de remontée, la location d’équipe-
3.
With a bit of legwork, gear for less—a lot less—is a viable option.
ment et l’hébergement y soient moins chers qu’à une grande station
Ski/snowboard gear and apparel is seasonally driven, so retailers
de destination. De plus, vous profitez du cachet du ski et du surf des
need to move it quickly. If you’re willing to wait a month or more
neiges sur une montagne où vous trouverez encore de la poudreuse
into the season, you can start taking advantage of deals. If you have
à 9 h 30.
kids, many retailers offer half-back programs, allowing you to return skis/snowboards at the end of the season to receive half of
3.
Si vous déployez un peu d’efforts, il est possible de vous équi-
their cost back. You can also watch out for your local ski swaps
per à petit prix – très petit prix. Comme l’équipement et les
(which tend to happen in autumn) and tent sales. The Canadian
vêtements de ski et de surf des neiges changent au fil des saisons, les détaillants doivent les vendre rapidement. Si vous êtes prêt à
Enjoy the cachet of skiing/snowboarding at a niche mountain where all the powder isn’t shredded by 9:30am.
attendre un mois ou plus après le début de la saison, vous pouvez commencer à profiter d’aubaines. Si vous avez des enfants, de nombreux détaillants offrent des programmes de remboursement de la moitié du prix, qui vous permettent de retourner les skis ou la planche à neige à la fin de la saison contre un remboursement de la
Ski Patrol, for example, run their Winter Extreme Ski & Board Swap
moitié du prix. Vous pouvez aussi surveiller les journées d’échange
events at over 20 locations across Canada. If you don’t need to try it
de ski dans votre région (qui ont tendance à avoir lieu en automne)
on before you buy it, online marketplaces are increasingly popular
et les ventes sous la tente. La Patrouille canadienne de ski (PCS),
places to buy discounted or used gear (keep in mind that you may
par exemple, organise des journées d’échange de skis et de planches
have to pay extra for shipping and that heavily discounted items
à neige Winter Extreme à plus de 20 endroits partout au Canada.
may not be returnable).
Si vous n’avez pas besoin d’essayer l’équipement avant de l’acheter, les cybermarchés gagnent en popularité pour l’achat d’équipement
The fact is, everyone loves a bargain—and the world of skiing/snow-
usagé ou à prix réduit (soyez toutefois conscient que vous pourriez
boarding is full of them if you know where to look.
avoir à payer des frais d’expédition et que les articles à prix très réduit pourraient ne pas être remboursables).
For trip-planning info and more, check skicanada.org Le fait demeure que tout le monde aime les aubaines – et le monde du ski et du surf des neiges en regorge si vous savez où regarder. Pour obtenir des renseignements sur la planification de voyages, entre autres, consultez le site skicanada.org.
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
Photo courtesy of Go Ski Alberta / Photo offerte par Go Ski Alberta
Starting Out Right
Pour un bon départ
Tips to elevate your first ski/snowboard experience
Conseils pour améliorer votre expérience en ski ou en surf des neiges
Want to start skiing or snowboarding the right way? Not happy with that
Vous voulez commencer à skier ou à surfer de la bonne façon? Vous
school trip years ago where you wiped out in front of everyone? Or have
n’êtes pas satisfait de votre sortie scolaire il y a des années, où vous vous
you never put edge to snow in your life so far? Either way, our simple
êtes cassé la gueule devant tout le monde? Ou peut-être n’avez-vous en-
advice is to start with a lesson. Your first resort visit should definitely
core jamais mis un ski sur la neige? Peu importe, nous avons un conseil
include one right from the top.
bien simple pour vous : commencez par une leçon. Votre première visite à une station de ski doit assurément en inclure une.
The easiest and most economical way to do this is to enroll in Never Ever Days. For those who thought they would “never, ever” try sliding on
La manière la plus simple et économique de le faire consiste à vous pro-
snow, a Never Ever Day is the ultimate beginners’ package. It delivers
curer un forfait Ma première fois. Pour ceux qui pensaient ne jamais tenter
everything you need – equipment rental, beginner lift ticket, and a les-
de glisser sur la neige, le forfait Ma première fois représente le forfait
son – for just $25 (+tax). Over 80 ski areas across Canada will be offering
pour débutant ultime. Il offre tout ce dont vous avez besoin, soit l’équi-
Never Ever Days throughout the 2018/19 season, but with limited spots
pement de location, le billet de remontée pour débutant et une leçon,
available they’ll be in high demand.
pour seulement 25 $ (+ taxes). Plus de 80 stations de ski partout au Canada offriront les forfaits Ma première fois tout au long de la saison 2018-2019,
If you’re a couple and one of you is more advanced, could we offer a
mais, vu les places limitées, ils seront en grande demande!
few more words of advice? Don’t try to teach your spouse how to ski or snowboard. Just. Don’t. Bother. It could end in tears. Leave lessons to
Si vous êtes en couple et qu’un de vous est d’un niveau plus avancé, per-
the pros.
mettez-moi de vous donner quelques autres conseils. Ne tentez pas de montrer à votre conjoint à skier ou à surfer. Ça n’en vaut pas la peine. Ça
The crisp winter air, the freshly snow-covered trees, the friendships forged
pourrait mal se terminer. Laissez ce travail aux professionnels.
on the hill, and the hot chocolate by the fireplace afterward are all within your reach… So what are you waiting for? For details about Never Ever Days
L’air frais hivernal, les arbres recouverts de neige fraîche, les liens d’am-
near you, check nevereverdays.com.
itié tissés sur la montagne et le chocolat chaud près du foyer en fin de journée sont tous à votre portée... Donc, qu’attendez-vous? Pour obtenir tous les renseignements sur le programme Ma première fois et les endroits où il est offert dans votre région, consultez le site https://mpf.maneige.ski
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
Gear For You
Équipement pour vous
Need ski or snowboard gear but aren’t quite ready for the investment?
Vous avez besoin d’équipement de ski ou de surf des neiges, mais
Forget the old hand-me-down gear your well-meaning neighbour
n’êtes pas tout à fait prêt à investir? Laissez de côté le vieil équi-
or sister-in-law gave you. At a rental shop you can try the latest
pement de seconde main que votre voisin bien intentionné ou
technology and choose different shapes and styles, tuned fresh,
votre belle-sœur vous a donné. À une boutique de location, vous
ready and fitted for you and your skill level.
pouvez faire l’essai de la toute dernière technologie et choisir différentes formes et différents modèles, fraîchement mis au point,
If you’re completely new to the sport you may want to consider
prêts et adaptés à vous et à votre niveau d’habileté.
renting a ski jacket and pants to keep you warm and dry. (Not all resorts offer apparel rental, but many do—be sure to check their
Si vous n’avez jamais pratiqué ces sports avant, vous pourriez
website in advance.) We also advise you to rent a helmet if you
avoir à envisager de louer une veste et des pantalons de ski pour
don’t own one. Think safety!
vous garder au chaud et au sec. (Ce ne sont pas toutes les stations qui louent des vêtements, mais bon nombre le font – consultez le site Web avant votre visite.) Nous vous conseillons aussi de louer un casque si vous n’en avez pas. La sécurité avant tout!
Photo courtesy of Canadian Olympic Park Photo offerte par Parc Olympique Canada
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
Photo courtesy of Alpine Canada / Photo offerte par Canada Alpin
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
Everybody Speaks Powder Tout le monde parle le A skier’s inspiration langage de la poudreuse Les mots inspirants d’une skieuse words :: Bill Shelley
par :: Bill Shelley
Why do we ski? It’s a question we may never ask ourselves. If anyone
Pourquoi skions-nous? C’est une question qu’on ne se posera peut-être
ever asked me why I skied, I might have to think about it for a moment.
jamais. Si un jour quelqu’un me posait la question, j’aurais probablement
Why do I ski? Because my parents put me into lessons early on? Because
à y penser quelques instants. Pourquoi je skie? Parce que mes parents
I grew up in a cold climate? Because fresh snow cries out to be carved?
m’ont inscrit à des cours dès mon jeune âge? Parce que j’ai grandi dans un pays froid? Parce que la neige fraîche ne demande qu’à être sillonnée?
I ski for many reasons, but the main one is so obvious that it feels almost irrelevant. I ski because it feels good. Now, you can unpack “feels good”
Les raisons sont nombreuses, mais la raison principale pour laquelle
in a lot of different ways. Skiing feels good in the mind and the body. It
je skie est si évidente qu’elle semble presque sans pertinence. Je skie
feels good to ski with friends. But to really focus in on the “why”, I felt
parce que ça fait du bien. Maintenant, il existe de nombreuses façons de
that a pro’s perspective would be invaluable.
définir « faire du bien ». Le ski fait du bien au corps et à l’esprit. Ça fait du bien de skier avec des amis. Mais, pour vraiment se concentrer sur
The pro’s name is Roni Remme and she’s an Olympian and member of
le « pourquoi », j’ai pensé qu’il n’y aurait pas mieux que de demander le
the Canadian Ski Team. She’s also a full-time student majoring in Psy-
point de vue d’une pro.
chology and Business at the University of Utah. Remme was on a break from training at El Colorado, Chile, when I spoke to her about why she skis and what brought her to skiing as a vocation. “I was on snow before my second birthday,” says Remme. “I grew up in Collingwood, Ontario which is a unique area for ski racing because of all
« Nous sommes nombreuses à parler différentes langues, mais cela importe peu, puisque tout le monde parle le langage de la poudreuse. »
the private clubs. In that area it’s passed down from generation to generation—your parents are members of a club, then you grow up there and
Cette pro s’appelle Roni Remme, athlète olympique et membre de l’équi-
become a member, and it goes on like that. I started racing at Alpine Ski
pe de ski canadienne. Elle est aussi étudiante de deuxième année à temps
Club at six years old.”
plein en psychologie et en affaires à la University of Utah. Remme avait pris une pause de l’entraînement à El Colorado, au Chili, quand je lui ai
Remme showed promise early, placing second in slalom in the Youth
demandé la raison pour laquelle elle skie et ce qui l’a amenée à choisir le
Olympic Games in Innsbruck, Austria, in 2012. In the 2016-17 season,
ski comme vocation.
she finished third in super-G on the Nor-Am Cup circuit. She took a break from her studies at the University of Utah for 2017-18, racing multi-
« J’étais sur les pentes avant mon deuxième anniversaire, indique
ple World Cup events and picking up 11th in slalom. She also raced in the
Remme. J’ai grandi à Collingwood, en Ontario, qui est un endroit unique
Olympic Games, showing a lot of promise in both technique and speed.
pour le ski de compétition étant donné tous les clubs privés. Dans cette région, l’adhésion se transmet d’une génération à l’autre – vos parents
I asked Remme what she would tell someone to inspire them to take up
sont membres d’un club, puis vous grandissez là et devenez membre,
skiing. “Skiing is such a strong community,” she says. “Once you start ski-
et ainsi de suite. J’ai commencé à compétitionner à l’Alpine Ski Club à
ing, it gives you this rush and this energy and there’s not much else out
l’âge de six ans. »
there that can give you that same feeling. And it’s such a wonderful thing because you can ski or snowboard from such a young age to such an old
Remme a très vite montré un grand talent, se classant au deuxième rang
age. My grandfather is still skiing and he’s almost 80. There are so many
en slalom aux Jeux olympiques de la jeunesse à Innsbruck, en Autriche,
great human beings you meet doing this sport.”
en 2012. Au cours de la saison 2016-2017, elle est terminée troisième en super G sur le circuit de la Coupe Nor-Am. Elle a pris une pause des
Already in her short life, the 22-year-old Remme has skied all over the
études à la University of Utah en 2017-2018 pour participer à de mul-
world and on the most difficult courses known to humankind. I asked
tiples compétitions de la Coupe du monde et s’est classée au onzième
her whether it matters where you ski—the massive mountains of the
rang en slalom. Elle a aussi participé aux Jeux olympiques, montrant un
Rockies or the not-so-massive Ontario escarpment hills? “Skiing is so
avenir prometteur tant par sa vitesse que par sa technique.
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
much more than what the hill is like. It’s the energy and passion from
I am in the course. I come up with a game plan before the run, so I know
the people around you. It’s a worldwide community. You feel the same
where the gates are, where I want to be, and what I want to be doing. If
kind of commitment to the sport and the same energy everywhere you
I’m on track and everything’s going well, I’m just trying to keep myself
go. Skiing brings people together.”
focused. I never think about the finish line. There’s no point in trying to think ahead that way. I try to focus on what’s happening ‘in the now.’”
I asked if skiing is always a serious business for her—is it always about training and goals? “When I’m freeskiing it is a lot less serious,” she ex-
So what is Roni Remme’s ultimate ski day? “My favourite day of skiing
plains. “On a powder day on powder skis it’s like a different sport than
was a powder day at Snowbird, with all my University of Utah Ski Team
alpine racing. I try to bring that same energy to my racing. I listen to music
teammates. It was one of my first powder days and I had just gotten pow-
a lot while I ski and that gives me a certain vibe. When I’m skiing for
der skis. It’s amazing being out there with my teammates because we all
speed and want to get myself pumped up, I listen to a lot of old school hip
come from different places and we all have different ski styles, but we’re
hop: Biggie, DMX. But if I’m skiing slalom I try not to get too pumped up
all at the same level, so even on a powder day we’re pushing ourselves to
because things happen really quickly, so I might listen to more country.
drop a cliff or to ski a line of powder that we normally wouldn’t. A lot of
I have a very diverse music collection. I also listen to a lot of rock—I’m
us speak different languages, but it doesn’t matter because everybody
really into Portugal. The Man—I was obsessed with their new album and
speaks powder.”
listened to it all through the Olympics last winter.” Remme hits pause on the tunes during final races, “so I can hear what my coach is saying,” she adds. And when it comes to dealing with pre-
“That’s maybe the hardest thing for people to understand about ski racing. It looks harder from the top.”
race jitters? “Ultimately, I try to remind myself that I’m here for a reason,
And finally, what advice does Roni Remme have for someone looking to
I’ve trained for this. At times when I was younger I’d start second-guess-
take up skiing or snowboarding, but is slightly hesitant about dropping
ing myself because I’d watch my competition and be like, ‘Whoa, they’re
in? “I’m scared, too, sometimes,” she says. “But it’s all just a matter of
so good! How am I supposed to ski that well?’ Now I realize that that
perspective. You’re going to start on a bunny hill and it might be scary,
kind of stress doesn’t let me perform at my best. So now I try to take
but you do it once and then you realize how much easier it is than you
on a different mindset, where instead I remind myself that all the skills
thought. That’s maybe the hardest thing for people to understand about
I need, I already have. I’m here for a reason. I’ve trained for this and I
ski racing. It looks harder from the top. But the more you do it, the easier
know what I need to do.”
it gets. It keeps building up and up. There are still moments when I’m at the top of a course and I’m looking down and thinking ‘I’m not com-
I also wanted to know what goes through an Olympic-level racer’s mind
fortable doing this…’ But by the time I get to the bottom I realize, ‘Hey,
during a race. Remme explains: “We do inspection where we get to look
that was not as hard as I thought.’ And I think—I hope—that’s what other
at a course before a race and a lot of athletes will try to memorize it. So ul-
people will feel as well. Once you accomplish that thing you weren’t sure
timately when I’m in the final race, I’m just trying to keep track of where
you could do, it becomes easier every time.”
Photo courtesy of roniremme.com/ Photo offerte par roniremme.com
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
J’ai demandé à Remme ce qu’elle dirait à quelqu’un pour l’inspirer à
J’aimerais aussi savoir ce à quoi pense une athlète de niveau olympique
se mettre au ski. « Le ski représente une communauté si solide, expli-
pendant une descente. Remme explique ce qui suit : « Nous avons une
que-t-elle. Une fois qu’on commence à skier, on ressent une poussée
inspection avant la compétition pendant laquelle nous regardons le par-
d’adrénaline et une grande énergie, et il n’y a pas grand-chose au monde
cours, et beaucoup d’athlètes tentent de le mémoriser. Quand vient le
qui peut en faire autant. Et, c’est tellement une chose merveilleuse, car
temps de la dernière descente, je tente seulement de garder en tête où je
on peut skier ou surfer d’un si jeune âge à un si vieil âge. Mon grand-
suis sur le parcours. Je me fais un plan de match avant la compétition afin
père skie encore et il a presque 80 ans. On rencontre tellement de
de savoir où sont les portes, où je veux être et ce que je veux faire. Si tout
bonnes personnes quand on pratique ce sport. »
va bien quand je suis sur la piste, j’essaie seulement de rester concentrée. Je ne pense jamais à la ligne d’arrivée. Il est inutile de penser ainsi au
Déjà dans sa courte carrière, cette jeune femme de 22 ans a skié partout
futur. Je tente de me concentrer sur ce qui se passe au moment présent. »
dans le monde et sur les parcours les plus difficiles connus de la race humaine. Je lui ai demandé si l’endroit où elle skiait importait – les gigantesques montagnes des Rocheuses ou les monts abrupts, mais plus modestes de l’Ontario? « Le ski va bien au-delà du type de montagne. C’est l’énergie et la passion des gens qui s’y trouvent. C’est une communauté mondiale. On ressent le même genre d’engagement envers le sport et la même énergie peu importe où l’on va. Le ski rassemble les gens. » Je lui ai demandé si le ski est toujours une affaire sérieuse pour elle – s’agit-il toujours de s’entraîner et d’atteindre des objectifs? « Quand
« Nous avons une inspection avant la compétition pendant laquelle nous regardons le parcours, et beaucoup d’athlètes tentent de le mémoriser. Quand vient le temps de la dernière descente, je tente seulement de garder en tête où je suis sur le parcours. »
je skie librement, c’est beaucoup moins sérieux, affirme-t-elle. Par une journée de poudreuse, sur des skis larges, on dirait un tout autre sport
Donc, quelle a été la journée de ski ultime de Roni Remme? « Ma journée
que le ski alpin de compétition. J’essaie de garder cette même énergie
de ski préférée fut une journée de poudreuse à Snowbird, avec toutes
quand je m’entraîne pour des compétitions. J’écoute souvent de la mu-
mes coéquipières de l’équipe de ski de la University of Utah. C’était
sique quand je skie, ce qui me permet de maintenir en quelque sorte
l’une de mes premières journées de poudreuse, et je venais tout juste
cette énergie. Quand je souhaite skier à vive allure et que je veux me
de m’acheter des skis larges. C’est incroyable de me retrouver sur les
motiver, j’écoute beaucoup de hip hop de la vieille école : Biggie, DMX.
pentes avec mes coéquipières, car nous venons tous d’endroits différents
Mais, si je fais du slalom, j’essaie de rester plus calme, car les choses peu-
et nous avons tous des styles de ski différents, mais nous sommes tous
vent se passer vraiment vite, donc j’écoute du country. Ma liste de lecture
au même niveau, donc, même par une journée de poudreuse, nous nous
est très variée. J’écoute aussi beaucoup de rock – j’adore Portugal. The
dépassons pour sauter en bas d’une falaise ou skier sur une ligne de
Man – j’étais obsédée par son nouvel album et je l’ai écouté tout au long
poudreuse qui nous fait sortir de notre zone de confort. Nous sommes
des Jeux olympiques l’hiver dernier. »
nombreuses à parler différentes langues, mais cela importe peu, puisque tout le monde parle le langage de la poudreuse. »
Remme appuie sur pause pendant ses dernières descentes « afin de pouvoir entendre ce que mon entraîneur me dit », dit-elle. Et, que faites-vous
Enfin, quel conseil Roni Remme donnerait-elle à une personne qui cherche
pour vous calmer avant une compétition? « J’essaie de me rappeler que
à se mettre au ski ou au surf des neiges, mais qui se montre un peu
je ne suis pas ici pour rien, que je me suis entraînée pour ça. Parfois,
hésitante à le faire? « J’ai aussi peur des fois, indique-t-elle. Mais, tout
quand j’étais plus jeune, je commençais à douter de moi parce que je
est une question de perspective. Vous allez commencer sur une pente
regardais mes rivales et je me disais : “Wow, elles sont si bonnes! Com-
pour débutants et cela vous effraiera peut-être, mais vous le ferez une
ment suis-je censée skier aussi bien?” Maintenant, je me rends compte
première fois, puis vous vous rendrez compte à quel point c’est plus facile
« C’est probablement la chose la plus difficile à comprendre à propos du ski de compétition. Ça paraît plus difficile depuis tout en haut. »
que ce que vous pensiez. C’est probablement la chose la plus difficile à comprendre à propos du ski de compétition. Ça paraît plus difficile depuis tout en haut. Mais, plus on le fait, plus ça devient facile. C’est un effet cumulatif. Il m’arrive encore d’être au début d’un parcours et de regarder en bas et de me dire que je ne me sens pas à l’aise de descendre... Mais, une fois en bas, je me rends compte que ce n’était pas
que ce genre de stress ne me permet pas de donner le meilleur de moi-
aussi difficile que je l’aurais cru. Et je pense – j’espère – que c’est aussi
même. Donc, j’essaie désormais d’adopter une autre mentalité, selon
l’impression qu’auront les autres gens. Quand vous faites cette chose
laquelle je me rappelle que toutes les aptitudes dont j’ai besoin, je les ai
que vous n’étiez pas persuadé de pouvoir faire, ça devient de plus en
déjà. Je ne suis pas ici pour rien. Je me suis entraînée pour ça et je sais
plus facile chaque fois. »
ce que je dois faire. »
Canadian Ski Council Special Feature
vertical views
visions verticales
Paul Morrison: “After a major storm cycle, probably the largest of last
Paul Morrison : « Après un cycle de tempête important, probablement le
winter, my son Ian and a film crew shooting for Head Skis, got up on
pire de l’hiver dernier, mon fils Ian et une équipe de tournage embauchée
Whistler Mountain early. I won’t say which tree run, but a locally popular
par Head Skis, sont montés au sommet du mont Whistler tôt le matin. Je
old-growth tree run on Whistler Mountain. We had it to ourselves. Ian
ne nommerai pas la piste sous-bois, mais c’est une piste parsemée de vieux
likes to ski fast and in my opinion that’s what made the shot: more speed
arbres populaire dans la région. Nous avions la piste à nous seuls. Ian aime
and momentum caused the snow to behave maybe slightly differently
skier vite et, à mon avis, c’est ce qui confère à cette photo tout son mérite :
than in most ski photos I’ve taken. It was a memorable run, one of my
la grande vitesse a amené la neige à réagir peut-être un peu différemment
best in a long time of shooting on Whistler’s mountains.” Canon 1DX.
que dans la plupart des photos de ski que j’ai prises. Ce fut une descente
70-200 2.8. 1/1250th at 2.8 ISO 400.
mémorable, l’une de mes meilleures depuis que je prends des photos sur le mont Whistler. » Canon 1DX. 70-200 2,8. 1/1250e à 2,8 ISO 400.
Over 30 years after arriving in Whistler and landing his first contract, Ontario-born Paul Morrison continues to shoot for Whistler Blackcomb
Plus de 30 ans après être arrivé à Whistler et avoir décroché son pre-
as Senior Photographer. paulmorrisonphotography.ca
mier contrat, Paul Morrison, natif de l’Ontario, continue de prendre des photos pour Whistler Blackcomb en tant que photographe principal. paulmorrisonphotography.ca
PeRFoRmAnce WeAR
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sunice.com
THE BEAST FROM THE EAST Chasing waves in Scotland words:: Noah Cohen photos :: Marcus Paladino “Ya boys are sarfin’ in this weather?!” An old, gruff-looking Scottish man shouted at us through a blur of wooden casks and whiteout conditions. Pete Devries and I had tucked in behind the main office of a scotch whiskey distillery, looking for a place to hide from the elements and get into our wetsuits. In hindsight, asking the man for a wee nip of what those barrels were housing may have been a good idea to keep warm. We hurriedly suited up—fingertips instantly numb—then tromped through knee-deep snow and slid down the frozen street in our haste to get to the beach break we had spotted from the highway, nestled beyond the snow-covered dunes.
Pete Devries moving and grooving in the frigid Atlantic Sea.
Balaram Stack, stepping out of a two-week travel run from Panama to New York City to Los Angeles to Portland to Scotland for a couple days with the crew.
LEFT PAGE Sexy ocean lines of art. TOP Cohen and Devries, party lapping the snow dunes. BOTTOM Devries hand-dragging the face of a Scottish ripple in the ocean.
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TOP Local entourage. BOTTOM Pete Devries is a veteran of boosting airs in cold-water places—we wonder how his air awareness may translate to the bagpipes. RIGHT PAGE Devries battling the ‘Beast from the East’ in neoprene armour.
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Devries and I, along with lensmen Ben Gulliver and Marcus Paladino, had spent the day on the road, battling the beginnings of an arctic weather front that was dubbed ‘The Beast From the East’. A giant, snowy ball of fury had charged its way across Northern Europe, wreaking havoc in many major cities and bringing travel to a standstill in hubs like Charles de Gaulle and Heathrow. Though we were due to depart the following day, we decided to remain at the top of the nation and scour the rarely-surfed coastline, laden with endless winding beaches and jagged rocky coves that normally sat dormant—but were now coming alive with the swell produced by ‘The Beast’. When you’re on a surf trip, you surf. You wring out every last moment of time to catch waves. To adhere to this standard, we figured we could drive five hours east in search of swell and stay the night in one of the seaside villages, allowing us plenty of time to drive the following day—just in time to board our flight home. “Too easy,” as Paladino so commonly likes to quip. What we didn’t account for was the massive amount of snow ‘The Beast’ had brought. The highways —which are more like extensions of farmers’ driveways—were covered in snow, creating a much slower and arduous travel day than planned. It isn’t often that bobbing around in the turbulent North Atlantic is more pleasant than being on land, but today I pitied the cameramen and their unenviable posts. Though we knew winter in this neck of the woods would be far from a tropical paradise, none of us had planned for these conditions. Blustery and relentless winds battering the landscape is certainly the norm this time of year, but the storm that charged its way across Europe and eventually wrapped us in its clutches was the worst that many Scottish locals could recall. For what our newly-found stretch of sand lacked in bikini-clad beachgoers, it more than made up for with scenic beauty. The multi-coloured roofs that dotted the shoreline were adorned with layers of fresh snowfall—every now and then, between furious squalls, the sky would break to allow rays of sunlight to paint the hills; a stunning sight for us to savour. It was an odd thing, these moments of sensory bliss—then, in a
snap of the fingers, the sky would shift to black and return to pelting snow as we shielded our numb lips and stinging eyes with our surfboards. The waves were as bipolar as the day’s weather—and with a shift in wind direction, conditions deteriorated quickly, cutting the last session short. We stumbled our way back up the headland and found ourselves in what used to be a little valley created by sand dunes that were now transformed into snowdrifts. Set up side-by-side atop the largest one, we waited on the edge with the tails of our boards facing forward, leashes in hand and prepared to drop in as if skating a quarter pipe. We slid down the little slope in fits of laughter, relishing the opportunity to ‘snowboard’ in such a locale. Every so often our forays into far off places in search of surf deliver these little moments in time, allowing us to reflect with gratitude about how fortunate we are to be doing such a thing under the guise of ‘work’. Somewhere at the bottom of that snowy embankment, rolling around clutching surfboards and clad head-to-foot in neoprene, one of those moments gripped me. I sat in a heap, spitting snow out of my mouth and wiping it from my eyes, bearing a smile that my subconscious had formed for me while my thoughts were wrapped up in the moment. For a brief period, my near-frostbitten toes and frozen fingers had become an afterthought, and I was blissfully awed, gazing around at such a magnificent place and simply enjoying every bit of the experience. So often on trips it’s easy to get caught up in the importance of scoring waves and getting video clips—and the measure of success or failure is based solely on the quality of the content. Six months later, I can’t recall a single wave from that session. But I do remember getting to and from our vehicle in the blizzard like it was yesterday, and when I reflect on that afternoon, it serves as a pleasant reminder to relax, enjoy, and be present in each moment—and to not squander such special happenings with your mind stifled by thoughts of where you’re headed instead of simply enjoying your way there. We’d come to the boundless landscape of Scotland for the surfing, not the whiskey, but left with much, much more.”
PERFECTION IS NOT ABOUT COMPROMISE.
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Gallery Brittany Mumma in moving meditation above the clouds in North Iceland.
ANDREW STRAIN
Cody Townsend finding deep pockets of pow between the alders of the Japanese Alps.
MATTIAS FREDRIKSSON
Piers Solomon on fire with the cold smoke of Engelberg, Switzerland.
OSKAR ENANDER
No two snow flakes are the same. Tyler Roemer captures the intricacy and beauty of snow crystals.
TYLER ROEMER
Golden hour in the Mount Jefferson wilderness. Josh Dirksen lays into a surf-inspired turn.
TYLER ROEMER
Sasha DiGiulian climbs the Bulls on Parade route on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, USA. ANDY MANN/RED BULL CONTENT POOL
Sasha DiGiulian.
KEITH LADZINSKI/RED BULL CONTENT POOL
SUMMITING FROZEN STEEPLES Redefining the feminine hangout words : Ilissa Maiatico
“I get by with a little help from my friends, I get high with a little help from my friends.” It’s unlikely The Beatles were talking about ice climbing when they penned those lyrics in 1967, but the sentiment sure applies. The importance of solid connections with climbing partners is a non-negotiable when your life is literally on the line. Clinging to a tower of ice 150 feet above the frozen shoreline of Lake Superior with frostbitten fingers and face, Angela VanWiemeersch, 28, clutches an axe in each hand, chipping away at chunks of ice on the steep, staggering wall of HMR (W15). Belaying from below, fellow climber Sasha DiGiulian, 26, watches patiently and attentively. Their synergy is very apparent. “As you venture into lead climbing, first ascents and free-standing pillars, it can get very dangerous,” VanWiemeersch explains. “People die all the time.” Earlier in the trip, the ladies had planned to ascend a never-climbed ice pillar, only for it to collapse and shatter into pieces as they drove to the spot. “We just switched our objectives completely,” says VanWiemeersch. “It’s never worth it to hang out at an objective if there’s a risk of getting hurt or even dying.” VanWiemeersch and DiGiulian came to be partners through very different climbing histories, but with a common denominator of wanting to push the envelope for future generations of women to come on the wall. They share a desire to summit great heights—and chipping their way up frozen steeples is a typical ‘girls day’ for them. – 115 –
ABOVE Angela VanWiemeersch shakes out while leading the AGF climb on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan USA. RIGHT Angela VanWiemeersch leads the HMR route on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan USA. ANDY MANN/RED BULL CONTENT POOL
VanWiemeersch stumbled into climbing by accident. An avid snowboarder, she planned on moving to the mountains in her mid-20s. Ironically, her hitchhiking efforts landed her in Ouray, Colorado— home to an artificial ice climbing park. Learning on that venue, and out on the real ice, her skills developed quickly. Now, with numerous first ascents completed, from Michigan’s Cautiously Optimistic (WI4) to Utah’s Last Man Standing (W16), she’s truly found her calling. Alternately, DiGiulian began climbing as a child. “My brother had a birthday party at a climbing gym—and I just really liked it.” She was six years old at the time. A year later she discovered competitive climbing, and over the next two decades she went on to win three US national Championships and put up 28 first female ascents. Most recently, she completed the Canadian Trilogy: Castle Mountain, Mount Louis, and Mount Yamnuska—the first woman to do so. With DiGiulian looking to expand her skills and become a more well-rounded climber, one of her sponsors connected her with VanWiemeersch last winter. “I got a phone call that Sasha DiGiulian—who has been one of my heroes, you know she’s done so much for the sport— wanted to go climb with me. I was like, ‘What? This is crazy’”, says VanWiemeersch. With the stoke level high, the girls set off to explore ice in the off-the-grid area of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Stepping into a new arena to scale the frozen walls, DiGiulian says, “Some of the challenges were just feeling totally out of my element at times.” However, with help and guidance from her newfound friend, she powered through and led her first successful ice climb at Bridal Veil Falls. DiGiulian says, “Learning something new, challenging myself on
terrain that I hadn’t been on before and just the overall adventure of it was amazing.” While watching her idol take charge, VanWiemeersch recalls, “There was this bond of partnership, where I gave her the head nod and all of the sudden I saw this light bulb flash where she had all this self-confidence and she charged into this climb fearless ... it was a really cool experience and she’s just very awesome about female empowerment and about supporting other ladies.” While the climbing lifestyle isn’t for everyone, DiGiulian says, “I feel most alive when I’m out in nature interacting with the elements and pushing myself.” Meanwhile, exploration is what fuels VanWiemeersch’s soul. “I love the people that ice climbing has brought me to, and a good day is coming home safe with your best friends.” With VanWiemeersch now gearing up for her sixth year of ice climbing, she’s extremely happy with how things have turned out. In her early days, the sport was predominately male-focused, but now she mainly climbs with a group of women. “I’m just a girl from the midwest that had big dreams. It’s really inspiring—I get messages from girls that are like 18 that want to get into climbing and they’re looking to me for answers. I think it’s just funny because it was only five years ago that I was doing the same thing. I was asking other people for answers. So, I’m incredibly moved by the whole situation.” Modern day revolutionists, DiGiulian and VanWiemeersch are setting the stage for the generations to come as strong, inclusive, fearless, female role models, redefining what a 'day out with the girls' can be— one axe at a time, 150 feet up a frozen waterfall.
– 116 –
– 117 –
Panning for pow in Northern BC words :: Taylor Godber
Josh Daiek enjoying the winter gold that Last Frontier Heli delivers in Northern BC.
– 118 –
GRANT GUNDERSON/COURTESY LAST FRONTIER HELISKIING.
I
n 1793, Captain George Vancouver’s Royal Navy ship, HMS Discovery, connected with Lieutenant Puget’s survey vessel, HMS Chatham. Discovery’s primary mission was to exert British sovereignty and assist with the Nootka Conventions (a series of agreements between Spain and Great Britain signed in the 1790s). The Nootka Claims Conventions would help bring peace to the conflict of overlapping ideas of ‘who found what first’ in portions of the Pacific Northwest—which was peacefully settled, and warfare was avoided. Vancouver and Puget journeyed up the 115-kilometre fjord that is Portland inlet—which draws part of the line between southeastern Alaska and British Columbia. They meandered down the sliver of water on an old wooden ship between green, densely-forested corridors—all the way from Pearse Island to Stewart, and then to Hyder, Alaska. It was a team built for exploration, with an intention of finding new objectives and staking claim. Following their explorations: a few comers and goers, some prospectors panning around with limited success, and then a proper boom around 1910 when rumours of vast mineral wealth trickled down the line. Gold! Just after the first World War, early settlers flocked to Stewart. Their impressions, now collected in the District of Stewart’s archives, were positive. “To me it was a wonderful sight,” wrote one gold seeker,
Contemporary pioneers, still full of zeal and lust for new objectives in uncharted places, carry snowboards and skis instead of pickaxes and gold pans. “coming as I did from a city to such a peaceful spot. I arrived by steamer to make my home in this small mining town of Northern British Columbia. So small it was barely on the map, a pretty little place, very much in its wild state, surrounded by snow-capped mountains with only the Canal as an opening to the outside world and being a new vision of God’s country. It was slowly being built up by the various people who came to try their luck, most of whom were interested in mining which was the principle asset and the little place was proud of its old timers who had come and gone predicting great summits for its future.” Little more than one hundred years later, the mining has seen extreme ups and downs (notably during the depression), but the exploration aspect has always carried on. These days however, we come to Stewart in search of a different kind of gold—champagne pow! Contemporary pioneers, still full of zeal and lust for new objectives in uncharted places, carry snowboards and skis instead of pickaxes and gold pans. It’s unknown whether the old-timer mountain guide who once did avalanche work in one of the mines where Last Frontier Heli Skiing is now based was clad in a beaver pelt, but for good measure we’ll keep that visual attached. – 119 –
TOP LEFT Soaking tired muscles and sipping beers—life is good at Last Frontier Heli. STEVE ROSSET. TOP RIGHT Down-day activities—sharpening hand-eye coordination for the next day’s laps. GRANT GUNDERSON. BOTTOM RIGHT Bell 2 Lodge. STEVE ROSSET. BOTTOM LEFT Embracing the outdoors all hours of the day. Campfire at Bell 2 Lodge. STEVE ROSSET
Mike Watling, Last Frontier’s managing partner, delivers informative dialogue on their Backgrounder Series (lastfrontierheli.com). “The guide kept telling us how incredible the terrain would be for heli skiing,” he says. “So they followed the tip and did some exploration.” He adds, “we secured the area as ours.” Last Frontier is situated in northern BC, on the southern edge of the Alaskan panhandle. They have two remote bases—Ripley Creek in the town of Stewart and Bell 2 Lodge, one range east in the Skeena Mountains. Maintaining lodges in two different ranges means a bigger playground, and that means more shred-worthy peaks and valleys to explore between the Coast mountains and the Skeenas. Watling says, “We have some of the biggest glaciated ski terrain in Canada—the largest single heli ski area on the planet at 10,100 square kilometres.” Our maiden adventure consisted of gladed tree runs in old growth forests, a backcountry picnic—and knee-deep pow in spectacular high alpine terrain with huge glaciated features that felt supernatural. The
knowledge and rock-steadiness of the guides’ decision-making implies they might have the mountain’s spirit incarnated into their beings— oursing through their blood. Watling adds, “Our guides are hired because of their technical expertise, and also because they are fun to be around.” Sitting around the campfire at Bell 2 Lodge—completely off-grid, sipping a hot toddy, listening to the orchestra of the wolves crying and the crackling of the fire—one can’t help but feel a deeper connection to the land and an utmost respect for those who prospected these destinations back in the day. It is the Wild West out here. And while we were the ones following the leader and not leading the pack like Captain Vancouver, we can truly appreciate the rustic Canadian wilderness appeal of it all and the sense of adventure. “It’s an escape,” says Watling. A prime opportunity to unplug the phone, plug into the wilderness, connect with like-minded adventure enthusiasts and step into the untouched majesty of the mountains—a modern-day kind of gold.
– 120 –
Bird in the sky, headed back to the lodge after another successful shred mission. DAVE SILVER/COURTESY LAST FRONTIER
photos by: Raven Eye & Real Mackenzie Photography
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Gear Guide photos :: Colin Adair
BURTON, WOMEN'S GORE-TEX EYRIS JACKET $379 Enjoy all-winter performance in this sustainably-made stormproof jacket. The fully taped seams create an impenetrable, yet breathable fortress against the elements, keeping you cozy in a full range of temperatures. burton.com
styling & design :: Taylor Godber
LULULEMON, ENERGY BRA $54 Breathe and sweat easy in this all-sport bra. Made with Luxtreme® fabric and lycra fibre for sweat-wicking, shape retention, and fourway stretch with a cool, smooth feel. lululemon.com
NOW, CONDA BINDINGS $349.99 The Conda is a high-performance, award-winning binding for the girls and with Skate-tech built in, you get more power for turning, less foot fatigue and more board control. This is the perfect match for hardcharging lady shreds of the Pacific Northwest. now-snowboarding.com
PATAGONIA,WOMEN'S ORGANIC COTTON QUILT SNAP-T® PULLOVER $179 This heritage-inspired version of the classic Synchilla® Snap-T® Pullover is made of a soft organic cotton/ polyester blend for everyday layering and warmth. patagonia.ca
BURTON, WOMEN’S SUPREME SNOWBOARD BOOT $549.99 The reigning queen of the mountain channels the best of the best into one boot that balances pro-level performance with warmth and comfort that any rider will appreciate. burton.com
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DAKINE SURFBAG, REGULATOR TRIPLE 6’0” $312.99 This triple-surfboard travel bag goes the distance. Boards are separated and protected by two internal padded dividers inside the 3/8-inch closed cell foam bag with a bomber 600D polyester top and heat-reflecting bottom. dakine.com
AFTANAS BOARD, THE OPTION $685 Designed for those middle days where a fish just isn’t enough and a step-up would be overkill, The Option is the perfect rocker for waves in and around the West Coast, with more volume per inch than your average shortboard. https://aftanas.ca
QUIKSILVER, 5/4/3 HIGHLINE PLUS CZ WETSUIT $461.95 Embrace even the coldest winter swells in comfort. This wetsuit keeps the performance level high when the temperature drops with its fast-drying and highly-flexible F’n LITE neoprene. Quiksilver’s WarmFlight® Far Infrared lining traps and retains your heat against your skin for the best combination of warmth and flexibility. quiksilver.com
SLOWTIDE, REGIME TOWEL $39.95 Crafted with form and function in mind, the soft cotton velour face is complemented by a plush and absorbent looped terry back. With eye-catching designs, this fast-drying towel is the ideal travel accessory for any adventure. slowtide.ca
MANDA, ORGANIC SUN CREME, SPF 50 $41.50 This non-toxic and reef-safe lotion sunscreen is made with high-quality, food grade organic ingredients such as Thanaka, a natural sun protectant from Myanmar that preserves and beautifies the skin. mandanaturals.com
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DAKINE, TEAM POACHER R.A.S 26L BACKPACK $264.99 Pro-rider Chris Benchetler's go-to pack. It has the technical features and fit for riding steep lines and features a rendering of Benchetler's original artwork on the back panel. dakine.com
SANDBOX, THE KINGPIN $219.99 The Kingpin goggle offers superior vision and comfort with a medium-sized cylindrical lens on a sleek frameless design. Features include triple layer face foam, venting, anti-fog, a high impact scratch resistant lens with 100% UV protection, and is CE certified. sandboxland.com
ARC’TERYX, SABRE LT JACKET $700 A highly versatile big mountain jacket built for weather protection in a progressive design. It is equipped with a full set of features specific to freeride touring, giving you quiet and comfortable movement through wet and winter weather. The longer length gives extra protection from the elements on deep storm days. arcteryx.com
BLACKCROW, THE NAVIS FREEBIRD $999.95 Striking a balance between fatness and skiability, the Navis Freebird is shaped for both far-off quests and everyday missions. The 102mm waist is wide enough in the powder while still feeling stable on firmer snow. black-crows.com
BN3TH, SHIBORI LONG UNDERWEAR $60 A unique blend of tencel modal fabric results in the softest, most luxurious-feeling long underwear you'll ever own. The Japanese-inspired shibori print is funky but refined, like tie-dye but light on the psychedelics. bn3th.ca
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ELAN, RIPSTICK 86 $599.95 A true all-mountain ski, the Ripstick 86 serves as the missing link between an on-piste and off-piste ski. Inheriting the tech pedigree from its larger, wider brothers, it handles off-piste terrain with comfort and ease, while quickly transitioning to on-piste with precision and confidence. elanskis.com
SUNICE, HAMILTON JACKET Unlike many thermal jackets, the Hamilton features Climaloft to keep you warm and comfortable in wet conditions. The advanced insulation system contains ultra-fine polyester fibres that trap body heat. It's also windproof and ultra-light for layering, with stretch panels for mobility and WxTech coating for water repellency. sunice.com
THE NORTH FACE, PURIST JACKET $749.99 For top-of-the-line protection, this jacket features a full suite of backcountry-ready features. The Purist is designed for integration with other Steep Series™ layers to enable easy access to essentials in the backcountry. This 3L weatherproof GORE-TEX jacket excels at keeping water and arctic winds in the dog house. www.thenorthface.com
ROSSIGNOL, EXPERIENCE 88 TI $699.95 The new Experience 88 TI is perfect for skiers looking for adventure within the resort, creating new lines and playing the terrain. rossignol.com
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Nothing exists beyond the cacophony of wind and snow the sky and earth a monochromatic envelope day after day. Timelessness flows around dollops of orange, faint in the duning chaos we live comfortably. In this space-time pause lucidity ebbs and floods Stories on the wind dive into our napping dreams. Snow creeps further up and we stumble into the blistery abyss to dig again. The mountain’s rhythm.
photo & words :: Nicolas Teichrob
Warm cackles. Humility. Comfort in this vulnerable space without time, you have all the time. Blizzards end so, we wait. The rabbit holes are patient. When it goes blue, you’ll be ready.
Nicholas Teichrob digging out his humble abode in the eye of the storm.
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The award-winning Thermo Rogue is stripped of bulk, but Thermo Rogue Hiker/Ice Climber
Angela VanWiemeerch
stacked with performance. With Primaloft Aerogel to keep her warm, GoreTex to keep her feet dry and a Vibram Arctic Grip Dura outsole to keep her sure-footed, Michigan hiker and ice climber Angela VanWiemeerch explores the frozen shoreline of Little Presque Isle in the Upper Peninsula. To learn about Angela and the Thermo Rogue, visit merrell.ca
ADVENTURE WITH US
SNOWMOBILE TOURS BLACKCOMB MOUNTAIN & CALLAGHAN VALLEY
604.938.1616 | CANADIANWILDERNESS.COM ADVENTURE DESK: CARLETON LODGE, 4282 MOUNTAIN SQUARE