Putni časopis CROATIA Jesen 2019 / Inflight magazine Autumn 2019 by Croatia Airlines

Jesen _ Autumn 2019

Putni Ä?asopis _ Inflight magazine

A. Grubelić

Poštovani putnici!

Dear passengers,

Pred nama su novi, jesenski izazovi, a iza nas vruće ali uspješno ljeto, još jedna dinamična turistička sezona u kojoj su mnogi od vas do svojih odredišta letjeli upravo našim zrakoplovima. Osobito me raduje što smo, kao mali znak pažnje, na 30. rođendan naše tvrtke, 7. kolovoza, mnoge od vas na našim letovima i u odredištima iznenadili malim prigodnim darovima. Slavljeničko raspoloženje nastavlja se tijekom cijele godine pa pripremamo još nagradnih natječaja i iznenađenja kako bismo vam zahvalili na dugogodišnjem povjerenju.

Novel autumn challenges lie ahead, with a hot yet successful summer behind us, another dynamic tourist season, when many of you have travelled to your destinations aboard our aircraft. I’m particularly pleased that, to mark the 30th anniversary of our company, on 7th August, we prepared a surprise for many of you on our flights and at our destinations in the form of small gifts, small tokens of our gratitude. We’re continuing to be in a celebratory mood throughout the rest of the year, so we’ve prepared a number of prize draws and surprises to thank you for your long-standing trust and loyalty. While aboard our aircraft, I’m sure time will fly by even more pleasantly with the autumn issue of our inflight magazine in your hands. Through an interview, we’ll introduce you to our tennis ace, Marin Čilić, a sportsman with a big heart, who organised a charity tennis tournament this summer. Last year, the Croatian tennis team, one of the members of which was Marin Čilić as well, won the Davis Cup. This year’s highlight of this attractive tennis competition is to take place in Madrid this autumn. Some of you may wish to be there, so we’re bringing first-hand impressions of the Spanish capital − our reporter has recently visited Madrid, a city which is magnificent day and night. An immensely important period lies ahead of Croatia. In the first half of next year, our country will assume the Presidency of the Council of the European Union. So we’ve dedicated several pages of our magazine to this important topic as well. Of course, this is only a part of the topics we’ve produced for you, and I’m sure that each of you will find an interesting one to read from amongst the rest. Dear passengers, I truly look forward to all our flights together and thank you very much for flying with us.

Dok ste u našem zrakoplovu, vjerujem da će vrijeme proteći još ugodnije uz jesenski broj putnog časopisa koji je pred vama. U njemu kroz razgovor predstavljamo našega teniskog asa Marina Čilića, sportaša velikog srca, koji je ljetos organizirao humanitarni teniski turnir. Lani je hrvatska teniska reprezentacija u kojoj je igrao i Marin Čilić osvojila Davis Cup, a ove jeseni vrhunac toga atraktivnog teniskog natjecanja održat će se u Madridu. Možda će neki od vas poželjeti biti upravo tamo pa vam prenosimo dojmove iz španjolske prijestolnice iz prve ruke − naš je reporter nedavno posjetio taj noću i danju atraktivni grad. A pred Hrvatskom je iznimno važno razdoblje. U prvoj polovici sljedeće godine naša će zemlja preuzeti predsjedanje Vijećem Europske unije. Stoga i toj, za sve nas bitnoj temi posvećujemo nekoliko stranica našeg lista. Dakako, to je samo dio sadržaja koje vam nudimo. Ne sumnjam da će i među ostalim temama svatko od vas naći poneku za sebe. Dragi putnici, iskreno se radujem svim našim zajedničkim letovima i najsrdačnije vam zahvaljujem što letite s nama.

Jasmin Bajić Predsjednik Uprave / President & CEO

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

SADRŽAJ CONTENTS

Razgovor MARIN ČILIĆ, VELIKI SPORTAŠ JOŠ VEĆEG SRCA Hrvatski teniski as zakladom koju je osnovao pomaže djeci kako bi snove pretvorila u stvarnost. Interview MARIN ČILIĆ, A GREAT SPORTSMAN WITH A BIG HEART With the foundation he’s set up, the Croatian tennis ace helps children turn their dreams into reality.

Otoci NEODOLJIVA BAŠKA Baška je gradić na otoku Krku čija će vas bogata povijest, kultura i prirodne ljepote ostaviti bez daha.

??????????????????

Islands IRRESISTIBLE BAŠKA Baška is a small town on the Island of Krk, whose rich history, culture and natural attractions will take your breath away.

Jesen/Autumn 2019 www.croatiaairlines.com

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy

2 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

36 Prirodne ljepote BRIJUNI ∑ MEDITERAN KAO ŠTO JE NEKAD BIO Ovo otočje nije samo safari park s nojevima, žirafama i slonovima nego i izvorna mediteranska priroda. Natural attractions BRIJUNI ISLANDS ∑ THE MEDITERRANEAN AS IT ONCE WAS This archipelago isn’t just a safari park with ostriches, giraffes and elephants, but is also a piece of authentically Mediterranean nature.

ODMAH

Predbilježi se i budi među prvima koji će voziti novi

Audi Q3 Sportback.

Više informacija doznajte na www.audi.hr ili kod ovlaštenog Audi partnera: OSIJEK: AutoZubak, Martina Divalta 326, tel.: 031/ 562 310 | RIJEKA: Porsche Inter Auto Rijeka, Škurinjska cesta 2c, tel.: 051/ 208 270 | SPLIT: Audi centar Split, Kralja Držislava 51, tel.: 021/ 682 200 | ZADAR: Auto Hrvatska Automobili, F. Lisice 85, tel.: 023/ 344 815 | ZAGREB: AutoZubak, Ljudevita Posavskog 7a, Sesvete, tel.: 01/ 2030 200 | Porsche Inter Auto Jankomir, Velimira Škorpika 21-23. tel.: 01/ 5501 900 Kombinirana potrošnja goriva: 4,3 - 9,5 l/100 km. Kombinirana potrošnja CO2 emisija: 124 - 168 g/km. Slika je simbolična.

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Fashion ONE DAY This stylistic photo-essay is a story about a breezy day and about creations that never go out of fashion.

Š. Lugarov

Moda JEDNOM Ovaj stilski foto-esej priča je o jednom lepršavom danu te o kreacijama koje nikad ne izlaze iz mode.

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel.: +385-1-616-00-66 e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Kontinentalna Hrvatska VUKOVAR, PONOS HRVATSKE Ovaj grad na dvjema rijekama svake godine privlači sve više turista zbog raznovrsne gastronomije za svačije nepce, bogate kulturne baštine i prirodnih ljepota.

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Jasmin Bajić

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Continental Croatia VUKOVAR, THE PRIDE OF CROATIA This town on two rivers has been attracting an increasing number of tourists year after year with its rich offer of foods catering for all tastes, rich cultural heritage and natural attractions.

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić, Davor Janušić, Anamarija Jurinjak, Zlata Prpić

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Miranda Herceg

Prijelom/Layout

Miranda Herceg

Meridijani MADRID, VELIČANSTVEN DANJU I NOĆU Pravo je vrijeme za posjet ovom impresivnom gradu u kojemu se u studenome održava završnica Davis Cupa.

Direktor Komercijalnih poslova/ Commercial Division Director Slaven Žabo

Lektor/Proofreader

Meridians MADRID, MAGNIFICENT DAY AND NIGHT It’s a good time to visit this impressive city, which is hosting the Davis Cup Finals this November.

Nevena Erak Camaj Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Ana Janković Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert

112 Stari zanati MORSKI VUK I LULA Posjetili smo starog majstora koji ručno izrađuje lule. Svaka je jedinstvena i u svaku ulaže nešto novo, a izlagao ih je i na najvećem svjetskom sajmu lulaštva. Old craftsmanship A SAILOR AND HIS PIPE We visited an old master who makes pipes by hand. Each is unique and highly distinctive, and he’s exhibited at the world’s biggest pipe show.

4 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

tel.: +385-1-616-00-17 e-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel.: +385-1-616-01-02 Priprema/Prepress AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb Tisak/Press AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb

ISSN 1330-6278

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CHECKPOINT AURA delicije delicacies

Aura

Obitelj Sirotić iz Buzeta u Istri priznati je proizvođač hrvatskih delicija Aura. Uz vlastitu destileriju u staroj kamenoj kući, Aura proizvodi čitav niz finih delicija poput čokolada s maslinovim uljem i lavandom, cvijetom soli, crvenim paprom, imelom i ružinim laticama. Asortiman proizvoda Aura možete pronaći u vinoteci Vivat fina vina u centru Zagreba, Martićeva 12. The Sirotić family from Buzet, Istria, are a renowned producer of Aura, a brand of Croatian delicacies. Besides distillates produced in their own distillery in an old stone house, Aura also produces a range of fine delicacies, such as chocolates flavoured with olive oil and lavender, flower of salt, red pepper, mistletoe and rose petals. Aura’s product assortment is available at the Vivat Fina Vina wine shop in the city centre of Zagreb at No. 12 Martićeva Street. www.vivat-finavina.hr www.aura.hr

NUNC, modularni stol a modular table NUNC-ov modularni stol Ala razbija tradicionalni, arhetipski volumen stola korištenjem skladišnih modula između uporabnih ploha. Potpuno je prilagodljiv po širini i spreman da u trenutku promijeni oblik i karakter. Bilo da se nalazi u domu ili restoranu, Ala je jednako idealan za intimna druženja ili veća društva koja povezuje u cjelinu. Dizajn: RU:T i N. Njegovanović Ala, NUNC’s modular table, breaks the traditional, archetypal volume of the table top by inserting storage modules between its table tops. Fully adjustable in width, and ready to change its shape and character in an instant, Ala is ideal for both private and public gatherings. Design by RU:T and N. Njegovanović nunc.design

M. Milin

NATAŠA MIHALJČIŠIN u Garderobi in Garderoba

6 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Garderoba Concept Store u Zagrebu, uz skandinavske modne brendove od listopada nudi i kolekcije hrvatske dizajnerice Nataše Mihaljčišin. Njezine samostalne kolekcije zasnivaju se na pletenim odjevnim predmetima kojima pristupa na originalan i poetičan način. Ova nova kolekcija izvrsno upotpunjuje ponudu Garderobe, a potražite je na adresi Martićeva 17 u Zagrebu. In addition to Scandinavian fashion brands, the Garderoba Concept Store in Zagreb has been offering collections by Croatian designer Nataša Mihaljčišin since October. Her solo collections revolve around originally and poetically designed knitted garments. This new collection complements the offer of Garderoba Concept Store perfectly, and is available at No. 17 Martićeva Street in Zagreb. garderobastore.hr

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

PULA, D.D. Interijeri Mutilska 6

MAKARSKA, Sokol oprema Vrgorački put 1 / Capitol Park

OSIJEK, IN INTERIORA dizajn 8 _Hrvatske CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2019 Ulica republike 31 (kod centra Kappa)

METKOVIĆ, Kican Interijeri Krvavac II

ZAGREB, Ulica grada Vukovara 284 tel. +385 1 366 44 90 SPLIT, Trg Hrvatske brat. zajednice 4 tel. +385 21 323 680

Aspen kolekcija_design Doimo Cucine CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW

10 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Unatoč svjetskom uspjehu, hrvatski tenisač Marin Čilić, koji iza sebe ima više od 500 pobjeda, između ostaloga i osvajanje US Opena te Davis Cupa lani, nikada nije zaboravio na svoje početke u malome mjestu. Štoviše, upravo je zbog toga odlučio osnovati Zakladu Marin Čilić kojom danas pomaže djeci kako bi svoje snove pretvorila u stvarnost. Despite being globally successful, the Croatian tennis player Marin Čilić − who’s won over 500 tennis matches, including the US Open and last year’s Davis Cup − hasn’t forgotten his humble beginnings in a small town. Moreover, that’s exactly the reason why he set up the Marin Čilić Foundation, which today helps children turn their dreams into reality.

MARIN ČILIĆ VELIKI SPORTAŠ JOŠ VEĆEG SRCA A GREAT SPORTSMAN WITH A BIG HEART

Piše/By _ Marija Pajić Fotografija/Photo _ Saša Ćetković

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 11

01 Dva sportska asa, Marin Čilić i Luka Modrić, najbolji nogometaš lanjskoga svjetskog nogometnog prvenstva Two sports aces, Marin Čilić and Luka Modrić, the best football player of last year’s World Cup

H.Serdar

02 Turnir su u paru osvojili naš proslavljeni nogometaš Mario Mandžukić i mladi tenisač Patrik Jurina The tournament was won in a doubles match by Croatia’s celebrated footballer Mario Mandžukić and the young tennis player Patrik Jurina

zaigrali aktualni svjetski nogometni doprvaci, naši Vatreni, među kojima Mario Mandžukić, Dejan Lovren, Ivan Perišić, Mateo Kovačić, Andrej Kramarić i drugi, zajedno s najboljim nogometašem svijeta te kapetanom naše reprezentacije Lukom Modrićem, zatim košarkaške zvijezde NBA-a Bojan Bogdanović i Dario Šarić, svjetski i europski veslački prvak Valent Sinković, bivši europski prvak na preči Marijo Možnik te, osim Marina Čilića, mnogi poznati tenisači, Ivan Ljubičić, Iva Majoli, Mate Pavić, Ivan Dodig, Mate Delić, Lovro Zovko... Oni i drugi sportski velikani odmjerili su teniske vještine i tako pomogli Osnovnoj školi Tordinci u Vukovarsko−srijemskoj županiji da dobije svoje sportsko igralište. Svjestan je Marin

a hrvatskoga teniskog asa Marina Čilića prošla je godina bila možda najljepša u životu. S finala Davis Cupa, koje se igralo u francuskome Lilleu, vratio se s pobjedničkim peharom, što je potvrdilo da je Marin predvodio čudesnu generaciju. Također, pred oltar je odveo svoju sadašnju suprugu Kristinu u njezinu rodnom Cavtatu. I dok zbog tenisa neprestano putuje svijetom, srce ga često vuče u Lijepu Našu, kao i obaveze prema zakladi koju je osnovao s ciljem pomaganja mladima. Događaj o kojem su svi govorili prošloga ljeta bio je humanitarni teniski turnir koji je na zagrebačkoj Šalati okupio mnoge hrvatske i svjetske sportske zvijezde. Tenis su

12 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Čilić koliko je za neke buduće sportske prvake važno igralište jer i sam je mnogo vremena provodio na jednom igralištu u rodnome Međugorju. To maleno mjesto u općini Čitluk sa samo 4000 stanovnika nije ni sanjalo da će svoju popularnost, uz činjenicu da se najčešće spominje kao odredište hodočasničkih okupljanja zbog čudesnog ukazanja Blažene Djevice Marije, dugovati i ovome skromnome mladiću, koji svojom neposrednošću i sportskim životom osvaja gdje god se pojavi. Njegova obitelj, baš poput većine u tom kraju, bavila se uzgojem duhana i vinove loze. Otac Zdenko naporno je radio ne bi li svojim sinovima Vinku, Goranu, Mili i Marinu omogućio dostojan život. Marin je

tenis počeo igrati sa samo sedam godina, i to kada mu je sestrična iz Njemačke darovala prvi reket. S osam osvojio je prvi turnir, a s četrnaest preselio u Zagreb. Već 2005. osvojio je juniorski Roland Garros. Svoj je najbolji plasman ostvario u siječnju 2018., popevši se na treće mjesto svjetske ljestvice. Iza sebe ima 500 pobjeda, među kojima i osvajanje Davis Cupa te US Opena. Tako je uz naše tenisače Gorana Ivaniševića i Ivu Majoli postao jedini Hrvat koji je osvojio Grand Slam. Unatoč svjetskom uspjehu, nikada nije zaboravio na svoje početke u malome mjestu. Štoviše, upravo se zbog toga odlučio na pokretanje Zaklade Marin Čilić kojom danas pomaže djeci kako bi svoje snove pretvorila u stvarnost. Zaklada je osnovana 2016. godine vođena mišlju kako svako dijete posjeduje neograničene mogućnosti. Uz odgovarajuću potporu, predan rad i snažnu vjeru u sebe, svako nadareno dijete može ostvariti puni potencijal i ostaviti velik trag u društvu. Kroz obrazovne i sportske programe zaklada djeci i mladima pruža potporu i osigurava financijsku podršku. Uoči lanjskih božićnih blagdana Marin je dokazao da je uistinu velik sportaš još većeg srca. Iako je natječaj bio otvoren za samo deset stipendija, nakon brojnih prijava i dirljivih priča djece koja unatoč svim poteškoćama i preprekama i dalje marljivo rade, odlučeno je da se dodijele četiri stipendije više, pa ih je tako dobilo osam mladih sportaša i šest glazbenika.  Ljetos ste organizirali humanitarni teniski projekt GemSetHrvatska, što nije bio nimalo lak zadatak. Na jednom ste mjestu okupili velike sportske zvijezde. Kako vam je to pošlo za rukom? − Iskreno, nije bilo preteško! Svi su bili oduševljeni idejom i spremni pomoći. Najteže je bilo pronaći datum koji bi odgovarao većini jer smo svi razbacani po svijetu. No uspjeli smo se okupiti i turnir je bio sjajan. Zanimljivo je vidjeti sportaše uspješne u drugim sportovima kako igraju tenis. I svi su me ugodno iznenadili... Pokazalo se da svi znaju igrati te da puno njih voli tenis. Bilo je to lijepo druženje. Nadam se da ćemo turnir uspjeti održati u narednim godinama te da ćemo se i dalje veseliti. Do ovog turnira nisam imao prilike zaigrati s njima. Sastao sam se samo s Lukom Modrićem u Madridu, znam da se pripremao. Mario Mandžukić

mi je poslao dosta videomaterijala, jako voli igrati i natjecati se.  Naši su se nogometaši očito pokazali kao odlični tenisači... Biste li se i vi snašli na nogometnom terenu? − Možda bih se najbolje snašao na golu! Igrao sam nogomet kao dijete, ali ne pamtim kad sam zadnji put igrao, što zbog koljena, a što zbog manjka vremena. Mislim da sam kao dijete bio dobar tako da vjerujem da bih se snašao.  Znamo da imate malo slobodna vremena, ali uspijete li se i privatno družiti s kolegama poput Novaka Đokovića, Rogera Federera ili Rafaela Nadala? − S Novakom, Rogerom i Rafom imam sjajan odnos tako da mi ih je uvijek drago vidjeti i izvan teniskih terena. Kada se nađemo na istome mjestu, rado se družimo i razgovaramo o svemu, najmanje o tenisu. Potkraj 2017. Roger i njegova obitelj te supruga i ja slučajno smo se našli na istome mjestu i bilo nam je odlično. Družili smo se, čak malo i trenirali zajedno. Šalili smo se da nam takve pripreme moraju postati tradicija s obzirom na to da smo na prvom velikom turniru nakon toga, Australian Openu, u finalu igrali jedan protiv drugoga.  Kako teku vaše pripreme za ovogodišnji Davis Cup čije će se finale održati u studenome u Madridu? − Ove godine bit će osobito zanimljivo. Prvi se put igra na novi način pa nas sve zanima kako će novi koncept izgledati. Hrvatska dolazi kao pobjednica posljednjeg izdanja tradicionalnog Davis Cupa. Ove godine u skupini smo s Rusijom i domaćinom Španjolskom. To su iznimno jake reprezentacije pa će mečevi već u grupnoj fazi biti jako zahtjevni i atraktivni publici. S obzirom na to da Madrid nije tako daleko, nadam se da će doći puno naših navijača. Morat ćemo nadglasati Španjolce!  Vaš je život zapravo stalno putovanje. Je li život tenisača uistinu tako glamurozan kao što svi misle? Koliko je zapravo odricanja bilo potrebno da dođete do uspjeha? − Svi misle da živimo glamurozno, ali kada bi probali živjeti naš život na tjedan, dva, tri, shvatili bi kako to nije baš tako lako. Mnogo vremena provodimo na terenu doslovce svaki dan od ranih jutarnjih sati... Tenis je doista specifičan sport po pitanju rasporeda i slobodnog vremena. Gotovo svaki tjedan imamo turnir ili traju

pripreme za turnir, a slobodno vrijeme svodi se na dane. Naravno da u tim danima svaki tenisač pokušava provesti vrijeme s obitelji i prijateljima.  Jeste li ikada poželjeli odustati od tenisa? − Bilo je teških trenutaka, osobito na početku kad sam iz Međugorja došao u Zagreb. Bio sam bez obitelji, nitko me nije tjerao na treninge, sam sam morao biti odgovoran, ali uz potporu obitelji i okoline, pa i uz snažnu vjeru, uspio sam nastaviti. Kako dolazim iz Međugorja, mjesta snažne vjere, obitelj mi je usadila takav odgoj, što mi je pomoglo tijekom cijelog života.  Koliko uspijete razgledati odredište u kojem se igra neki turnir? U koji se

igre, grad također osobit po mnogočemu.  Ali i mala mjesta, poput vašega rodnog Međugorja, mogu očarati. Što biste istaknuli kao privlačnost svojega rodnog kraja? − Međugorje uistinu jest posebno mjesto zbog svega što sa sobom nosi. Osim što je poznato zbog vjerskog turizma, taj dio Hercegovine iznimno je lijep i zbog prirode, a oduševljava organskom hranom koja se još i danas uzgaja na tradicionalan način, dobrom klimom i opuštenim načinom života bez stresa. A katkad je baš to sve što nam treba. Mnogi su pronašli mir i utočište u Međugorju. Zanimljivo je da je Ricardo Piatti, bivši trener Ivana Ljubičića i sadašnji trener Borne Ćorića, jedan od onih koji se iznova

grad uvijek rado vraćate i što vas se ondje najviše dojmilo? − Iskreno, u svakom gradu najbolje poznajem restorane i katkad se moji šale sa mnom da na svakome svjetskom jeziku mogu naručiti hranu. Na manjim turnirima jedino što osim kluba uspijemo vidjeti jesu restorani i četvrt u kojoj nam se nalazi hotel. Najbolje poznajem gradove u kojima se odvijaju Grand Slamovi − Melbourne, Pariz, London i New York. Pariz me oduševljava arhitekturom. Način života, ljudi i atmosfera najdraži su mi u Melbourneu. Za New York, grad koji uistinu nikada ne spava, vežu me posebne uspomene. Izdvojio bih i Tokyo, u kojem se sljedeće godine održavaju Olimpijske

vraćaju Međugorju i svakako nije jedini. Nakon što je uveden izravan let Zagreb − Mostar, dolazak u Međugorje postao je lakši nego ikada.  Popularnost Lijepe Naše uvelike je djelo i naših sportaša. Što vas najčešće kolege tenisači pitaju o Hrvatskoj, a što im vi kažete? − Neprekidno se širi priča o ljepotama Hrvatske, o našim biserima, osobito sada nakon Svjetskoga nogometnog prvenstva i izvrsnog plasmana naše nogometne reprezentacije. Kad na putovanjima razgovaram s ljudima o Hrvatskoj, čujem da su mnogi upoznati s ljepotom našeg mora i obale, a oni koji još nisu bili u našoj zemlji kažu kako im je ona na vrhu liste da je

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 13

posjete. Sve koji nisu bili uvjeravamo da moraju doći.  Koja bi bila vaša poruka ili savjet mladim sportašima te korisnicima Zaklade Marin Čilić? − Prošle smo godine za stipendije primili više od 150 prijava, a svi koji su se javili na svoj su način posebni. Odabrali smo njih 14, što je bilo jako teško. Nastojao sam im mnogo toga prenijeti, ali najbitnije što sam kroz život i karijeru naučio jest to da uvijek pokušaju dati sve od sebe. Mi sami najbolje znamo koji je naš potencijal, koliko je naših sto posto. Kad dajemo taj maksimum, znamo da smo učinili sve što smo mogli. To nas čini sretnijima i zadovoljnijima, a onda nas prate i rezultati.  or the Croatian tennis ace, Marin Čilić, 2018 was probably the best year of his life. He returned from the Davis Cup tournament, played in Lille in France, with the champion’s cup, which only confirmed that Marin led a wondrous generation. In 2018 he also got married to his long-time girlfriend Kristina in her native town of Cavtat. And while he continually travels the world because of tennis, both Croatia and his commitment to the foundation he’s set up to help the youth are dear to his heart which is why he often comes back. The event that everyone talked about last summer was the charity tennis tournament that gathered many both Croatian and world sports stars at Zagreb’s Šalata sports grounds. Tennis matches were played by the current football world vice champions, Croatia’s Vatreni, including Mario Mandžukić, Dejan Lovren, Ivan Perišić,

Mateo Kovačić, Andrej Kramarić and others, together with the best footballer in the world and captain of Croatia’s team Luka Modrić, and NBA stars Bojan Bogdanović and Dario Šarić, the world and European rowing champion Valent Sinković, former European gymnastics champion in the discipline of horizontal bar Marijo Možnik and, besides Marin Čilić, many other famous tennis players, such as Ivan Ljubičić, Iva Majoli, Mate Pavić, Ivan Dodig, Mate Delić, Lovro Zovko... They competed against each other and ultimately helped the Tordinci Primary School in the Vukovar-Srijem County to get its sports ground. Marin Čilić is well aware of the importance of sports grounds for future sports champions because he used to spend much time on one in his native Međugorje. This small town in the Municipality of Čitluk, counting as little as 4000 residents, can’t have ever imagined that it will owe its popularity not only to the fact that it’s most often referred to as a destination of pilgrims and their gatherings thanks to the miraculous apparitions of the Blessed Virgin Mary, but also to this modest young man whose openess and sporting life wins you over every time. His family, just like most in the region, were tobacco and grape growers. Father Zdenko worked hard to give his sons Vinko, Goran, Mile and Marin the best start in life. Marin started playing tennis at the age of seven, and this when his cousin from Germany gave him his first racket as a gift. He won his first tournament at the age of eight and moved to Zagreb at the age of fourteen. He won the Roland Garros Junior Championship already in 2005. His ranking was the highest

in January 2018, when he was third in the world rankings. He’s had 500 wins so far, including the Davis Cup and the US Open, which makes him one of three Croatian tennis players to have won the Grand Slam besides Goran Ivanišević and Iva Majoli. Despite being globally successful, he’s never forgotten his humble beginnings in a small town. Moreover, that’s exactly the reason why he set up the Marin Čilić Foundation, which today helps children turn their dreams into reality. The foundation was set up in 2016, guided by the belief that every child possesses unlimited potential. With the right support, hard work and having faith in yourself, every gifted child can achieve their full potential, and leave their mark on society. Through its education and sports programmes, the foundation provides children and the youth with different types of support, including financial support. Just before last year’s Christmas holidays, Marin proved that he is indeed a great sportsman with a big heart. Although the foundation was going to award only ten scholarships, after having read the many applications and touching stories of children who continue to work diligently despite the difficulties and obstacles they’ve faced in their lives, it was decided that four more scholarships would be awarded, so eight young athletes and six musicians won a scholarship each.  Early this summer, you organised a charity tennis spectacle called Gem Set Croatia, which must have been difficult to prepare. You gathered big sports stars in one place. How did you manage?

Djeca su uživala u nezaboravnom susretu s hrvatskim sportskim zvijezdama The children enjoyed an unforgettable encounter with Croatia’s sports stars

14 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

NAJPOPULARNIJA SERIJA VOLVO SERIJA 60

S E R I JA 6 0 Nije slučajno da je Volvo serija 60 tako omiljena među vozačima. Vozila iznimno izgledaju, oduševljavaju inovativnošću i odgovaraju mnogim stilovima. Elegantan sportski karavan V60 nudi praktična rješenja te prestižnu tehnologiju koja olakšava svakodnevicu, dok u verziji Cross Country dokazuje svoj talent za sve dimenzije slobodnog vremena. S60 R-Design oduševljava svojim atletskim duhom, osvaja udobnošću i obogaćuje osjećajem da vozite nešto uistinu posebno. U našoj ponudi svakog od njih krasi bogata oprema. Odvezite svoga. PROVJERITE OGRANIČENU PONUDU I REZERVIRAJTE PROBNU VOŽNJU NA VOLVOCARS.HR.

Pobrinuli smo se za vrhunske uvjete Volvo Car Financiranja koje omogućuje bezbrižnu, osobnu i povoljnu kupnju prilagođenu Vama. Ne propustite iznimnu priliku i odvezite Volvo serije 60 uz 0% kamate - broj vozila je ograničen. S60 T4 AUT R-Design 39.990 € ili 3 godišnje rate po 13.330 € V60 D3 Base 35.990 € ili 3 godišnje rate po 11.997 € V60 CC D4 AWD AUT Momentum 46.990 € ili 3 godišnje rate po 15.663 € XC60 D3 Momentum 41.990 € ili 3 godišnje rate po 13.997 €

Prosječna potrošnja goriva: 4,4–7,8 l/100km. Emisije CO2: 117–181 g/km. Cijene preračunate prema tečaju Eura 7,65 iznose: 305.923, 50 HRK uz ratu 101.974,50 HRK za S60 T4 140 kW (190 KS) AUT R-Design, 275.323, 50 HRK uz ratu 91.777, 05 HRK za V60 D3 110 kW (150 KS) Base, 359.474 HRK uz ratu 119.825 HRK za V60 Cross Country D4 AWD AUT Momentum, 321.223, 50 HRK uz ratu 107.077, 05 HRK za XC60 D3 110 kW (150 KS) Momentum. Cijene ne uključuju trošak metalik boje i pripreme vozila. Ponuda vrijedi do isteka zaliha. Posebni prodajni uvjeti za financiranje vozila putem financijskog leasinga u suradnji s Unicredit Leasing Croatia d.o.o. Financiranje se ugovara uz valutnu klauzulu u EUR, kamatna stopa za klijente je 0,00%, a jednokratna naknada zaključenja ugovora 1,50% od kupoprodajne cijene vozila. EKS 1,49%. Trajanje ugovora o leasingu 24 mjeseca. Učešće iznosi 33,00% od kupoprodajne cijene vozila. Otkupna vrijednost iznosi 1,00% od kupoprodajne cijene vozila. Leasing rata je godišnja, a izražava se u EUR i plaća u HRK prema prodajnom tečaju Zagrebačke banke d.d. na dan uplate. Za tiskarske greške ne odgovaramo. Slike su simbolične. Više informacija na volvocars.hr ili kod ovlaštenih Volvo zastupnika.

Volvo centar Zagreb, 01 670 07 00 | Volvo centar Moto-Ris, 01 38 21 570 | Volvo centar Split, 021 260 991

− Frankly, it wasn’t that difficult at all. Everyone was delighted with the idea and ready to help. Finding a date that would suit the majority was the most difficult thing to do because we’re all scattered around the world. But we managed to get together, and the tournament was brilliant. Seeing sportsmen who’re successful in other sports play tennis was interesting. And they were all a very pleasant surprise... It turned out that all of them know how to play and that many of them like tennis. It was a nice get-together. I hope to be able to continue to organise the tournament in the coming years and that we continue to look forward to it. Until this tournament, the opportunity to play with them has never presented itself. I met in person only with Luka Modrić in Madrid, and I know he was preparing. Mario Mandžukić sent me a lot of video footage, he loves playing and competing.  Croatia’s football players obviously proved to be excellent tennis players as well. Would you know your way around a football field? − I’d know my way around the goal. I used to play football as a child, but I don’t remember when I last played because of my knees, and because I don’t have the time. I think I played well as a child, so I believe I would know my way around it.  We know you have little spare time, so do you then have time to socialise privately with fellow sportsmen, such as Novak Djoković, Roger Federer or Rafael Nadal? − I have a great relationship with Novak, Roger and Rafa, so I always enjoy seeing them outside the tennis court. When we happen to be in the same place, we like to socialise and talk about everything but tennis. Near the end of 2017, my wife and I chanced across Roger and his family, and we had a great time. We hung out, and even trained together a little. We joked that we should make these preparations a tradition, considering that at the first big tournament after that, the Australian Open, we played against each other in the final.  How are your preparations going for this year’s Davis Cup whose finals are played in Madrid in November? − This year will be particularly interesting. This’ll be the first time that the new format of playing will be used, so we’re all very eager to see what that will be like. Croatia is competing as the winner of the

16 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

last edition of the traditional Davis Cup. This year, we’re in a group with Russia and the hosts, Spain. These are exceptionally strong teams, so the matches will be very demanding and attractive to audiences already at group stage. And since Madrid isn’t that far away, I hope to see a lot of our fans. They’ll simply have to be louder than the Spanish!  Your life involves a lot of travel. Is the life of a tennis player as glamorous as everyone’s inclined to think? Has achieving success required a lot of sacrifice? − Everyone thinks that we live a glamorous life, but if they tried to live our lives for a week or two or three, they’d soon realise that it’s not that easy. We spend a lot of time at the tennis court, and this literally every day since the early morning hours... Tennis is a very specific sport in terms of schedule and free time. There’s a tournament or tournament preparations nearly every week, and your spare time is counted in days. And, of course, what every tennis player tries to do then is be with family and friends.  Have you ever thought of quitting tennis? − There were difficult times, particularly at the beginning when I came to Zagreb from Međugorje. I didn’t have my family around, no one was urging me on to train, the responsibility was all mine, but with the support of my family and teachers, and thanks to my strong faith, I persevered. As I come from a place of devout religious belief, Međugorje, my family has instilled strong faith in me, which has helped me throughout my life.  Have you got the time to sightsee and experience a city where a tennis tournament is played? Which city are you always happy to return to, and what is it that has most impressed you there? − In all honesty, what I know best in each city are the restaurants, and sometimes my family and friends jokingly say that what I know how to do in every world language is order food. During smaller tournaments, the only things we get to see, besides the tennis club, are restaurants and the neighbourhood of the hotel. The cities I know best are the cities that host the Grand Slam − Melbourne, Paris, London and New York. I love Paris because of its architecture. My favourite things about Melbourne are its lifestyle, people and atmosphere. Special memories tie me to New York, a city that

really doesn’t ever sleep. I’d also single out Tokyo, which is hosting next year’s Olympic Games, a city that’s also very remarkable in many ways.  Even small places, like your native Međugorje, can be enchanting, can’t they? What would you highlight as attractions of your native land? − Međugorje is indeed a special place. Except for being famous for religious tourism, this part of Herzegovina is exceptionally beautiful because of its nature, its organic food is delightful and is still grown in the traditional way, its climate is wonderful, and it nurtures a relaxed way of life without any stress. And sometimes that’s all you need. Many have found a haven of peace in Međugorje. It’s interesting that Riccardo Piatti, Ivan Ljubičić’s former coach and Borna Ćorić’s current coach, is one of those who keep on returning to Međugorje, and he’s certainly not the only one. After direct flights from Zagreb to Mostar were introduced, getting to Međugorje has never been easier.  Croatia’s been popular in large measure thanks to its athletes. What is it that your fellow tennis players ask you about Croatia most often, and what do you tell them? − They talk much and widely about Croatia’s attractions and pearls of beauty, particularly now, after the football World Cup and after Croatia’s football team achieved the outstanding result it did. When I talk to people about Croatia on my travels, I hear that many people are familiar with the beauty of our sea and coast. And those who haven’t been to our country yet say that visiting Croatia is on their wish list. We keep on persuading them to come.  Is there a message or advice that you’d like to give to young sportsmen and beneficiaries of the Marin Čilić Foundation? − Last year, we received over 150 scholarship applications, and all the applicants are special in their own way. We chose 14 of them, which was very difficult. I tried to communicate a lot to them, but the most important thing I’ve learned through my life and career is to always try to do your best. Each person for themselves knows best what their potential is, where their one hundred percent is. When we give that maximum, we know we’ve done everything we can. That makes us happier and more content with ourselves, and that’s when results ensue. 

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 17

OTOCI ISLANDS

BAÅ KA 18 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

NEODOLJIVA BAŠKA IRRESISTIBLE BAŠKA

Piše/By _ Mirjana Brabec Fotografije/Photos _ Šime Lugarov i/and Arhiva TZ Baška/Baška Tourist Board Archives

Baška je gradić na krajnjem jugoistoku otoka Krka, 250 dana u godini obasjan suncem, čija će vas bogata povijest, kultura i prirodne ljepote ostaviti bez daha. Pridodamo li tomu istančanu ponudu lokalnih gastronomskih specijaliteta i vina u brojnim restoranima i konobama uz pjesmu i glazbu, svatko tko dođe u Bašku zacijelo će uživati. Baška is a small town in the south-easternmost corner of the Island of Krk, bathed in sunshine 250 days a year, whose rich history, culture and natural attractions are bound to take your breath away. If you add to this an amazing offer of local specialities and wines in countless restaurants and taverns where music is played, you’ll surely have a great time. CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 19

U Baški pušu vjetrovi koji daju obilježja pojedinim godišnjim dobima In Baška winds blow giving each season their specific characteristics

20 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

01 Šetnja rivom podiže raspoloženje A walk along the seafront lifting the mood 02 Detalj bašćanske luke A detail of Baška’s port 03-05 Detalji staroga dijela Baške Details of the old part of Baška 06 Ribarske mreže spremne za ribolov Fishing nets ready for fishing

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 21

Vela plaža Vela Beach

22 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

01 Ribar, skulptura kiparice Zvonimire Obad Fisherman, a sculpture by Zvonimira Obad 02 Vela plaža Vela Beach 03 Zbog stalnih vjetrova jedrenje na dasci iznimno je popularno Thanks to winds blowing constantly, windsurfing is extremely popular 04 Popularni vidikovac u centru Baške A popular lookout point in the centre of Baška 05-06 Stari dio mjesta Baška odiše posebnim šarmom The old town of Baška exudes a special charm

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 23

24 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

01-02 Crkva sv. Lucije u Jurandvoru blizu Baške The Church of St. Lucia in Jurandvor near Baška 03

Bašćanska ploča The Baška Tablet

04 Skulptura glagoljičkog slova L na ulazu u Jurandvor A sculpture of the letter L of the Glagolitic script outside Jurandvor 05 Skulptura glagoljičkog slova A A sculpture of the letter A of the Glagolitic script

ko ste krenuli u Bašku jedinom cestom koja od sredine otoka vodi u taj biser Jadrana, znat ćete da ste blizu cilja kad s desne strane ugledate veliku kamenu skulpturu u obliku vilice zabodene u tlo − slovo A glagoljičke abecede. Oznaka je to da ulazite u Bašćansku dragu, udolinu koja vodi do Baške, duž koje je postavljena staza glagoljice, jedinstvenoga staroslavenskog pisma kojim su Hrvati nekoć pisali na svojem jeziku. Kad prođete zadnje od 34 slova u dolini, od kojih su samo četiri velika i lako zamjetljiva, pogled na kristalno čisto more u prostranu zaljevu omeđenu brdima, šljunčanu plažu dugu 1800 metara, krševiti otok Prvić i Velebit u pozadini izmamit će vam osmijeh. A to je tek prvi dojam koji na posjetitelja ostavlja Baška. U predasima od uživanja u moru, prepustite se sportskim aktivnostima, zamamnoj gastronomskoj ponudi i brojnim događanjima u turističkoj sezoni, što je zasigurno vaš prvi razlog posjeta. No brojni su razlozi da iz ovoga šarmantnog mjesta opojnih mediteranskih mirisa otiđete punoga srca, s osjećajem da ste odmarajući se obogatili životno iskustvo i znanje, upoznali jedan novi mikrosvijet, Bašku i Bašćane, sve ljepote njihova kraja i zanimljive priče što ih pričaju njihove stare kamene kuće, crkve, arheološke iskopine, jedinstvene građevine u suhozidu, pa čak i podvodni svijet. Obavezno posjetite Akvarij u samome centru Baške, koji na prostoru od 200 četvornih metara krije 100 vrsta riba i 400 vrsta školjki i puževa. Tamo se kroz jednu od najvećih zbirki u Hrvatskoj možete upoznati

s velikim bogatstvom i raznovrsnošću podmorja hrvatskoga Jadrana. Izdvojili smo za vas osnovne informacije o ovoj destinaciji kako ništa bitno ne biste propustili i kako biste iz obilja svakovrsne ponude odabrali i u svoj plan boravka uvrstili ono što vas najviše zanima. Ili se jednostavno odlučili prvi put Bašku odabrati za svoju destinaciju. Baška, u koju su prvi turisti došli prije 115 godina, a lani je zabilježila impresivni broj od gotovo milijun noćenja, među najstarijim je naseljima na otoku Krku. O tome svjedoče brojni arheološki nalazi stari tisuću godina prije Krista, kao i oni iz doba Bizanta, Ilira, Rimskoga Carstva, Mletačke Republike, sve do Napoleona, venecijanske i austrougarske vlasti, od kojih mnoge možete vidjeti u Zavičajnome muzeju u centru grada. Baška se u pisanom dokumentu prvi put spominje 1232. kao Castellum Bascia, a pod današnjim imenom 1375. No najvredniji dokaz o dugoj povijesti grada nedvojbeno je Bašćanska ploča iz 11. stoljeća, najstariji zapis uklesan u kamen, na kojemu je hrvatsko ime ispisano hrvatskim jezikom na glagoljici, a kojime hrvatski kralj Zvonimir daruje zemlju opatiji sv. Lucije. Od 1934. Bašćanska je ploča smještena u zgradi Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti u Zagrebu, dok se u crkvi sv. Lucije u Jurandvoru nalazi njezina replika veličine 2x1 metar. Tom prigodom ne propustite pogledati i glavni oltar, s vrlo vrijednim umjetničkim poliptihom u drvu s originalnim gotičkim okvirom, djelo Paola Veneziana, kao i restaurirane ostatke benediktinskoga

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 25

01 Senjska vrata, morski prolaz između otoka Krka i Prvića, poznata su po jakoj buri The Gates of Senj, a sea passage between the islands of Krk and Prvić, known for strong gushes of the bora wind 02 Pogled s brda Obzova na otok Prvić A view of Prvić Island from Obzova Hill 03 Plaža Mala Luka Mala Luka Beach

samostana naslonjenoga na crkvu, podignutoga na mjestu nekadašnje rimske ville rustice. Prilika je to da protegnete noge jednom od brojnih šetnica: od obližnje crkvice sv. Ivana nastavite Putom na Mjesec, kako se naziva plato na visoravni gdje tlo nalikuje na Mjesečevu koru, odakle se otvara prekrasan pogled na obalu, okolne otoke i Velebit. Važan primjer pučke arhitekture ovoga kraja vidljiv je u očuvanim mrgarima, suhozidnim višeprostornim ovčarama u obliku cvijeta. Mrgari služe za prikupljanje i razvrstava-

26 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

nje ovaca, promjera su nekoliko desetaka metara, a najveći mogu primiti čak 1500 ovaca. U Baški ih je trenutačno deset, a na otoku Prviću još pet. Iznimno je zanimljivo kako se takav način razvrstavanja i prikupljanja ovaca može pronaći na samo još dvije lokacije u Europi, u Walesu (Velika Britanija) i na Islandu. U velikom središnjem krugu pastiri su poslije ispaše prikupljali ovce (u doba prosperiteta Bašćani su ih imali čak osam tisuća!), muzli njihovo mlijeko, od kojega mala domaćinstva i danas prave izvrstan sir. Janjeće meso na ražnju, izvanredne kakvoće i okusa zahvaljujući ispaši uz more, poznat je specijalitet ovoga kraja, posebno u sezoni striženja ovaca, u svibnju, kad se u Baški održava Crna ovca, tradicionalna trodnevna fešta janjetine, sporta, kulture i glazbe. Manji odjeljci što uokviruju veliki središnji prostor bili su torovi pojedinih pastira. Baška nije oduvijek bila na moru. Prve nastambe opasane zidinama niknule su na brdu kako bi se stanovnici zaštitili od gusara. Baška pri mori počela se razvijati nakon 1380., kad su Mlečani iz osvete zbog poraza od hrvatsko-ugarskoga kralja Ljudevita spalili kaštel. Legenda o čijoj se istinitosti znanstvenici spore kaže da je mala kamena nastamba koja i danas postoji u Ulici Vladimira Nazora, s uklesanim natpisom: Pax Huic Domui et Omnibus Habitantibus In Ea (Mir kući ovoj i svima koji prebivaju u njoj), prva bašćanska kuća podignuta uz more. Stanovnici Baške nekoć su bili poznati kao vrijedni poljoprivrednici, ratari, ribari, moreplovci, brodograditelji i obrtnici, a u

doba najvećeg prosperiteta, početkom 20. stoljeća, bilo ih je čak 4800, najviše na otoku (u godinama kriza, ratova i nagle industrijalizacije taj se broj prepolovio). Posljednjih su desetljeća sve svoje snage usmjerili na turizam i ugostiteljstvo, uzgoj vinove loze i proizvodnju vina (koja ovdje ima dugu tradiciju pa je njihov prošek 1928. osvojio Grand Prix na sajmu u Parizu!), maslinovog ulja i male obrte. S izvrsnim rezultatom. U njihovoj ljupkoj uvali svaki će gost pronaći mjesto za odmor i opuštanje kakvo mu se sviđa, od luksuznog smještaja u hotelu s pet zvjezdica ili manje luksuznih hotela i privatnih apartmana s bazenom do oaza u prirodi u vrhunski opremljenim kampovima; odabrat će za sebe najprivlačniju od tridesetak šljunčanih plaža do kojih se može doći pješice ili barkom; baviti se nekom od mnogih sportskih aktivnosti u ponudi, od ronjenja, jedrenja na dasci, pedaliranja i vožnje sandolinom do jahanja, trekkinga, bicikliranja (na Krku je posljednjih godina izgrađeno nekoliko desetaka kilometara biciklističkih staza!) i planinarenja, ili uživati u opuštenu hodu šetnicama s prelijepim vidikovcima, koje nisu naporne ni za djecu. Boravak u Baški prilika je i za jednodnevne izlete brodom (1900. imali su čak 90 jedrenjaka) do obale i susjednih otoka Paga, Raba, Cresa i Lošinja, ili pak barkom do skrivenih plaža na osami, autobusom do najljepšega hrvatskog nacionalnog parka Plitvička jezera. Uz zamamnu ponudu lokalnih gastronomskih specijaliteta i vina u brojnim restoranima i konobama, uz pjesmu i glazbu, koja je neizostavni začin gurman-

The imperial city

www.visitsplit.com CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 27

skim užicima, posjet Baški zasigurno će vam ostati u najljepšem sjećanju. Za više informacija: www.visitbaska.hr. 

f you’re heading for the town of Baška using the only road which leads to this pearl of the Adriatic from the middle of the island, you’ll know that you’re close when, to your right, you catch sight of a large stone sculpture shaped like a fork stuck in the ground − the letter A of the Glagolitic script. This is a sign that you’re about to enter Bašćanska Draga, a vale leading to Baška, along which lies the Baška Glagolitic Path, a peculiar old-Slavic script that Croats once used to write in their language. Once you pass the last of the 34 letters in the valley, of which only four are large and easily noticeable, the view before you of a crystal clear sea in a vast bay surrounded by hills, a 1800-metre long pebble beach against a backdrop of the rocky Island of Prvić and Velebit Mountain will surely put a smile on your face. And that’s just the first impression that Baška will leave on you. In taking a break from enjoying the sea, indulge in sporting activities, an amazing offer of mouthwatering foods and the many events during the tourist season, which must be your first reason for visiting. And all this with a view to making sure that, once you leave this place full of charm and intoxicating Mediterranean fragrances, it is with your heart filled to the brim, with a feeling that, while holidaying, you’ve enriched your life with new experiences and knowledge, that you’ve gotten to know a new microworld − the town and the people of Baška

− all the attractions of their region, all the fascinating stories told by their old stone houses, churches, archaeological sites, unique dry-stone buildings, and even by the underwater world. Be sure to visit the Aquarium at the very centre of Baška, spreading over 200 square metres and displaying 100 species of fish and 400 species of shells and snails. This is one of the largest such collections in Croatia, where you can get acquainted with the remarkable richness and biodiversity of the underwater world of the Croatian Adriatic. For you not to miss out on the most interesting things and for you to choose what most interests you from a wide array of things on offer, we’re bringing basic information about this destination so that you can include them in your itineraries.

Or for you to decide to visit Baška for the first time. Baška − a town visited by its first ever tourists 115 years ago, and a town that recorded an impressive number of overnight stays last year (close to one million) − is one of the oldest towns on the Island of Krk. This is evidenced by numerous archaeological finds dating from around 1000 BC, as well as those from the time of the Byzantine Empire, the Illyrians, the Roman Empire, the Republic of Venice, all the way to Napoleon and the Austro-Hungarian Empire, many of which can be seen at the Local History Museum in town centre. Baška was first mentioned in documents as Castellum Bascia, and this in 1232, and as Baška in 1375. However, the most valuable proof of the long history of the town is undoubtedly the Baška Tablet from the 11th century, the oldest stone tablet in which Croatia’s name is inscribed in Croatian in the Glagolitic script, a document with which the Croatian King Zvonimir donated land to the Monastery and Church of St. Lucia. The original Baška Tablet has been housed in the central building of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts in

01 Pogled s jedne od mnogih šetnica na Bašku i brdo Obzovu A view of Baška and Obzova Hill from one of the many promenades 02 Pogled na Bašku sa župnom crkvom Svetog Trojstva A view of Baška with the parish Church of the Holy Trinity

28 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Located downtown, in the heart of Zagreb’s bustling business district, Hotel International is the ideal venue, whether you’re visiting the City for business or pleasure. Our spacious, elegantly appointed guest-rooms, and luxurious suites, will ensure that your stay in Zagreb will be one to remember. Just minutes away from Zagreb’s main attractions, the Hotel International is your best bet as a starting point to explore the City’s hidden corners, green parks, picturesque open-air markets, theatres, museums, galleries, bohemian cafés and lively clubs. Following the energy efficiency standards we proudly support sustainable business operations.

Zagreb since 1934, while the Church of St. Lucia in Jurandvor has a 2x1 metre replica on display. While at the Church of St. Lucia in Jurandvor, be sure to check out its main altar, which contains a valuable polyptych carved in wood within an original Gothic frame, the work of Paolo Veneziano, as well as the restored remains of a Benedictine monastery leaning against the church and erected on the site of a former Roman villa rustica (countryside villa). This is also a chance for you to stretch your legs by taking a walk along one of the many promenades: from the nearby Church of St. John walk down the Path to the Moon, which is what a plateau whose surface resembles the surface of the Moon is called, from where a beautiful view of the coast, the surrounding islands and Velebit stretches. Well-preserved mrgari − or flower-shaped dry-stone sheepfolds − are an important example

of vernacular architecture of this region. Mrgari serve for the mustering and sorting of sheep, their diameter is several tens of metres, and the largest ones can receive up to 1500 sheep. There are ten in Baška, and five more on the Island of Prvić. It’s rather interesting that sheep are mustered and sorted in this way in only two more locations in Europe − namely, in Wales (UK) and Iceland. After pasturing, the shepherds would muster the sheep (in times of greater prosperity, the people of Baška owned as many as eight thousand sheep!) in a large central circular sheep

pen and milk them, from which small farm households have been making excellent cheese. Spit-roasted lamb of outstanding quality and a brilliant taste thanks to the lambs grazing by the sea is a famous speciality of this region, particularly during the sheep shearing season, in May, when in Baška the Black Sheep Festival is held, a traditional three-day festival of lamb meat, sports, culture and music. The smaller sections encircling the large central circular sheep pen are privately owned sheepfolds. Baška hasn’t always been by the sea. Encircled by walls, the first dwellings sprouted on a hill to protect the inhabitants from pirates. Baška by the sea started developing in 1380, when the Venetians burned down the citadel in revenge for being defeated by the Croatian-Hungarian King Ljudevit. Although scientists are in disagreement about its veracity, legend has it that the small stone house located on today’s Vladimir Nazor Street with the inscription Pax huic domui et omnibus habitantibus in ea (Peace be to this house and to all that dwell herein) is the first ever house erected in Baška by the sea. The inhabitants of Baška were once known as hardworking farmers, fishermen, sailors, shipbuilders and craftsmen. In times of Baška’s greatest prosperity, at the beginning of the 20th century, as many as 4800 residents lived in Baška, making Baška the largest town on the whole island (during times of crises, wars and sudden industrialisation, their number was halved). In the

01 Živopisni bašćanski folklor Baška’s lively folklore dance 02 Kuhinja s posuđem i kuhinjskim priborom dio su etnografske zbirke Zavičajnog muzeja Baška A kitchen display with cookware and kitchenware is part of the ethnographic collection of the Local History Museum in Baška 02

30 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

PULA MEDULIN BERLIN COLOGNE NUREMBERG BUDAPEST

arenahotels.com arenacampsites.com

DAILY BERTH BOOKING WITH NO BOOKING FEE

Mediterranean largest marinas chain

CROATIA

ACI marina - NO BOOKING FEE

ACI marina - NO BOOKING FEE LOW SEASONS* ACI anchorage

BECOME ACI CLUB MEMBER 30% discount on daily berth during the low seasons* 30% discount and 2+1 FREE for daily berth for the whole 2019 in ACI marinas Šimuni and Slano 20% discount on daily berth during the high season**

ACI APP & ACI ONLINE BOOKING No booking fee during the low seasons*

15% discount on the annual berth for the first year to the newcomers to ACI system and existing ACI clients for the second and each subsequent vessel in selected ACI marinas Umag, Pula, Pomer, Cres, Supetarska Draga, Milna, Vrboska and Korčula *Low seasons: 1.1.-31.5.2019. and 1.10.-31.12.2019 **High season: 1.6.-30.9.2019. 32 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

www.aci-marinas.com

GOVERNMENT RELATIONS CROATIA BELGIUM SLOVENIA SERBIA BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA MONTENEGRO ALBANIA KOSOVO NORTH MACEDONIA

vlahovicgroup.com T: +385 1 7898 640 | info@vlahovicgroup.com |

last decades, they’ve put all their efforts into the tourism and catering industries, growing grapevine and wine production (which has a long tradition here; their 1928 prošek, a sweet desert wine, won the Grand Prix at a fair in Paris!), olive oil production and small crafts. And they’ve been achieving excellent results. In their charming bay, every guest is bound to find a place to kick back and relax just the way they like, from luxurious accommodation in a five-star hotel or less luxurious hotels and private accommodation with a swimming pool to oases in nature in well-equipped campsites. Every guest will surely find a pebble beach that they like best out of the thirty or so pebble beaches that can be reached either on foot or by boat, or a sporting activity out of the many on offer − from diving, windsurfing, pedalling and beach canoeing to horseback riding, trekking, cycling (over the past few years, tens of kilometres of cycling trails have been built on Krk!) and hiking − or simply enjoy taking a walk along the many (family-friendly) promenades with beautiful lookout points. Holidaying in Baška is also a great opportunity for one-day trips

by boat (in 1900, they had as many as 90 sailboats) to the neighbouring islands of Pag, Rab, Cres and Lošinj, by small boat to hidden, secluded beaches, or by bus to Croatia’s most beautiful national park, the Plitvice Lakes. An amazing offer of local

Vlahovic Group

specialities and wines in countless restaurants and taverns, with music spicing up your enjoyment of it all, visiting Baška will surely remain etched in your memory. For more information, please visit www.visitbaska.hr 

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 33

34 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

HRVOJE SERDAR / CNTB

a country of positive energy and healthy lifestyle

Do you know that in 1889, Opatija was pronounced the official treatment centre of the AustroHungarian Monarchy because of its mild climate and health-related benefits of the air and seawater there? Another place where climate and air have healing properties is the island of Lošinj, where people often come to treat respiratory and rheumatic diseases. This is why it is called the Croatian Island of Vitality. Dalmatia abounds in healing mud pools that stretch from the area of the historical city of Nin, and even has an ancient spa palace; namely, the Roman emperor Diocletian, who suffered from chronic rheumatism, had built a palace in an area rich in sulphur water sourcesn and healing mud on the territory of today’s Split. In addition, he had built an aqueduct that supplied the palace with the water from the source of the river Jadro, the best potable water of the

Roman Empire according to the words of the Xth-century emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus. Ancient Romans used therapeutic thermal waters and healing muds for the treatment of their legionaries and emperors. Thus, it is not a surprise that the two Roman baths Aquae Iasae and Aquae Balissae located in the Croatian towns of Varaždinske Toplice and Daruvar, served as a basis for the construction of two modern fully-equipped rehabilitation centres for the world’s leading athletes. Besides a picturesque landscape, the near-by region of Hrvatsko Zagorje offers top medical services provided by experts specialising in cardiology, cardiosurgery and orthopaedics, as well as thermal-water based rehabilitation and a myriad of new wellness facilities and water parks. The region of Slavonia has also recently boosted its anti-stress offer by investing in the Thermal Spa Bizovac, where people can enjoy springs of thermal-mineral water that is three times saltier than seawater and has a beneficial effect on the musculosceletal system. In the immediate vicinity of Zagreb there is a unique area with fields of naftalan oil and healing muds that are used in the treatment of skin diseases, including psoriasis. Do you know that for a little more than a century the School of Medicine of the University of Zagreb has continually educated and trained Croatian physicians and that its former dean Dr. Andrija Štampar is one of the founders of the World Health Organisation? Today, Zagreb is proud to be the home to many renowned experts specialising in cardiology, organ transplantation, orthopaedics, ophthalmology, artificial insemination, aesthetic surgery, dermatology, stomatology and many other areas of medical expertise. Oral medicine services are often the reason why many thousands of foreigners visit Istria, a popular tourist destination and Croatian region that is renowned for its

Full of well-being | HEALTH TOURISM IN CROATIA

JULIEN DUVAL / ZTB

All of this makes Croatia a country filled with a distinctive positive energy and dominated by a healthy lifestyle. Every visitor can feel the beneficial effect of its natural aromatherapy by walking along the paths planted with medicinal herbs, most frequently lavender and rosemary, or by simply standing under a cypress tree and breathing in the soothing combination of Mediterranean vegetation, unbelievably clean air and mild climate. Swimming, sailing, hiking, walking, running, riding a bicycle are only some of many activities to choose from when visiting Croatia’s sea, coast, forests or its areas of unspoiled nature. But Croatia also hides opportunities for spiritual and mental relaxation offered by its many springs of thermal water, the quality of which is ranking at the very top on the EU level. Thanks to a centuries-old tradition of medical excellence, there is also a possibility of treatment of more complex health problems. Simply put, Croatia is a unique oasis of a healthy lifestyle, where not only life, air and food are healthy but where you can also have a good night’s sleep.

MARKO VRDOLJAK / CNTB

You probably already know a lot about Croatia, a country of unique beauty, temperate climate and rich history, that offers a variety of delicious and healthy food and intriguing medal-winning wines. Many have been charmed by the enchanting combination of its deep blue sea with a myriad of islands and the green mainland interspersed with remains of ancient and medieval walls, castles and manor houses, symbols of different civilizations and cultures.

rich gastronomic offer, numerous wine roads, its thermal spa and a rich offer of medical and wellness treatments. Even though Istria, the Kvarner Bay and Zagreb are already well-established medical tourism destinations that count thousands of guests mostly from Italy, Germany, Slovenia and Austria a year, more and more tourists who come to visit Dalmatia and other parts of Croatia are also led by a wish to preserve their health and to receive different types of medical treatment. But regardless of the part of Croatia you choose to visit, our welcoming hosts will make sure that your stay in our country turns into an unforgettable experience!

discover your story at croatia.hr

PRIRODNE LJEPOTE NATURAL ATTRACTIONS

BRIJUNI

Brijunski otočić u obliku ribe One of Brijuni’s islets shaped like a fish

36 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

BRIJUNI − MEDITERAN KAO ŠTO JE NEKAD BIO BRIJUNI ISLANDS − THE MEDITERRANEAN AS IT ONCE WAS Tekst i fotografije/ Text and photos _ Goran Šafarek

Brijuni se nekad nazivahu pustinjom, a danas se ta pustinja sve više vrednuje kao ono izvorno i izvrsno. Ovaj otok nije samo safari park s nojevima, žirafama i slonovima nego i izvorna mediteranska priroda. The Brijuni National Park was once called a desert. Today, this desert has increasingly been rated as something authentic and outstanding. The Brijuni National Park isn’t just a safari park with ostriches, giraffes and elephants, but is also an archipelago whose nature is authentically Mediterranean. CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 37

01 Ĺ uma hrasta crnike raste uz kamenu obalu i more A holly oak tree forest growing along the rocky coastline 02 Ä&#x152;udnovati oblici podmorja Unusual shapes of sea life 03 Borba jelena za vrijeme parenja A deer fight during mating season

38 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 39

40 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

01 Morski vranac suĹĄi krila A European shag drying its wings 02 Morska kornjaÄ?a A sea turtle 03 Ostaci bizantskoga kastruma The remains of a Byzantine castrum

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 41

42 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

01 Uvala i rezervat Saline The Saline Bay and Reserve 02 Paun u trku A peacock running 03 Periska na plitkome dnu mora A noble pen shell in shallow waters 04 Morski vranci plove morem European shags sailing the sea

uristi sjede u sjeni stabala u kafiću Školjka na Brijunima, u dvorištu odvojenome vratima i starim zgradama od vreve grupa koji posjećuju otok. Pijuckajući kavu čitaju na vrećici šećera: Što bijahu Brijuni? Otočna pustinja… Od pustinje stvoren je raj. Karl von Thaler, 1911. Tada je nešto uletjelo i odmah izletjelo iz zida jedne kuće. Tajnoviti letač izašao je iz rupe na rubu drvenih škura. Koju minutu kasnije dolepršao je pupavac; velika krijesta ove ptice jasno se vidjela na smeđe-crnome tijelu. Nevjerojatnom brzinom i gotovo u jednom pokretu sletio je ponovno do rupe; mladunac je izvio glavu i raširio kljun u koji je roditelj ugurao slasna crvića. Tri sekunde kasnije pupavac je nestao, a mladunac se povukao u sigurnost gnijezda u zidu stare vile. Možda su Brijuni sada raj, ali nikako nisu bili samo obična pustinja. Znanstvenici otkrivaju, a praksa potvrđuje, da se vrijednosti mijenjaju. Tako se i brijunska pustinja sve više vrednuje kao ono izvorno i izvrsno. Ovaj otok nije samo safari park s nojevima, žirafama i slonovima nego i izvorna mediteranska priroda. Da bi se došlo do tih novootkrivenih blaga, treba proći ona već poznata. Vozeći se električnim autićem po vijugavim cestama Velikog Brijuna, kao da putujemo različitim razdobljima povijesti koja traje tisućljećima, otkako su Iliri odlučili naseliti otok. Dolaskom Rimljana otok doživljava procvat i postaje znamenit na Jadranu i u cijeloj rimskoj državi. Vila u uvali Verige s tri terase, kompleksom

hramova, prostorijom za sport, rekreaciju i goste bila je nesumnjivo divno mjesto za život. Blizina kopna, lijepe plaže i umjerena klima pružali su idealne uvjete za život. Skok bliže u prošlosti temelji su bizantskoga kastruma na suprotnoj strani otoka. Mnogobrojne prostorije svjedoče da su od 2. st. pr. Kr. do 16. st. ovdje vladali Rimljani, Goti, Bizant, Franci te konačno Venecija. Otok je već gubio na važnosti kad je 1331. godine potpao pod Veneciju, a idućih 466 godina to se stanje pogoršavalo. Stanovništvo se iseljavalo zbog epidemija kuge, malarije, ratova, pljačke i iskorištavanja pa su krajem 17. stoljeća Brijuni bili gotovo nenastanjeni, sve dok austrijski industrijalac Paul Kupelwieser nije krajem 19. stoljeća napušteni otok pretvorio u elitni hotelski i lječilišni kompleks s igralištima za golf. Imena poput Thomasa Manna i Jamesa Joycea, Franje Ferdinanda, njemačkoga cara Wilhelma II. samo su dio tadašnjega glamura. S Jugoslavijom 1945. otok ulazi u novo poglavlje slave postavši rezidencija predsjednika bivše Jugoslavije Tita. Uz svjetsku aristokraciju dolaze i glumci poput Sofije Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Richarda Burtona... Danas su ti ostaci većinom uklopljeni u zelenilo, skladan mozaik prostranih livada koje su dijelom i igrališta za golf. Ovdje skakuću zečevi, pasu jeleni lopatari i aksisi, šepure se pauni. Značajan dio zauzimaju i šume, a za razliku od većine naše obale, gdje caruje prozračni i mirisni alepski bor, na Brijunima prevladava hrast crnika. Šuma je većinom potpuno bez grmlja, a krošnje potkresane kao u

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 43

najbrižnijim parkovima, što je djelo gladnih jelenskih zuba. No u ograđenim mjestima buja prava džungla. Ulazak u šumu nije nimalo romantičan − provlačenje će prije izazvati osjećaj pustolovine. Prolaz dodatno otežavaju penjačice koje poput čvrstih, nazubljenih žica omataju stabla. Poželio bi čovjek mačetu, no dakako da se njome nećemo služiti ovdje u parku ili bilo gdje na Brijunima. No većinu otoka ipak prekriva makija − degradirani stadij crnike, još neprohodniji od šume. Negdje iz gustiša dopire raskošan pjev slavuja, prava mala simfonija iz ptičjih usta. Za to vrijeme vjeverica bez straha ljušti češere s obližnjeg bora. Uz južnu uvalu Velikog Brijuna iza rta Gromače otvaraju se vrata u ornitološki rezervat Saline. Ova je nekadašnja solana šezdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća pretvorena u dva jezerca. Okružuju ih crnika i crnogorica. Uz jezero je malena kućica sa slamnatim krovom. Ovdje je Tito uživao u miru i cvrkutu ptičica, a i danas služi za promatranje ptica. Uokolo krekeću zelene žabe, mužjaci koji privlače ženke. Na suhom drvetu udobno se zavalila barska kornjača i upija sunce, slušajući svaki šum i spremna da zaroni u sigurnost vode. Čaplja sporo korača plitkom vodom, patke, liske i mlakuše plove

44 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

uz obalu, dok uz grane drveća lepršaju muharice i ostale ptice pjevice. Krševita obala Brijuna pravi je dragulj, s očuvanim i plitkim uvalama, idealnim stjenovitim i šljunčanim plažama. Valovi zapljuskuju stijene gdje su nekad hodali dinosauri i ostavljali stope, sada stvrdnute u čvrstu stijenu kao svjedoci milijunima godina kasnije. Za to vrijeme uz obalu nekoliko dupina pliva uz površinu vode, svako malo izranjajući. U lovu su. Ribari s druge strane nisu baš sretni zbog konkurencije, ali morski sisavci ovdje u parku imaju svako pravo na nesmetan lov. Obližnji otočić u blizini okupirali su galebovi i pretvorili ga u gnijezdeću koloniju. Valja oprezno hodati po makiji i grmlju, pazeći se obrušavajućih ptica, ali i ne stati na jedno od desetaka gnijezda. I dok su galebova gnijezda uglavnom na otvorenome, gnijezda morskih vranaca duboko su u makiji. Ove crne ptice srodnici su velikih vranaca poznatijih kao kormorani, ali vezani su uz more. Imaju jednake uspješne ribolovne navike. Znaju duboko roniti, a potom se suše širom raširenih krila na obalnim stijenama. Mnogima je ipak najveća vrijednost Brijuna njegovo more i život u njemu. Nacionalni je park oaza mira, gdje se ribe nesmetano razmnožavaju i rastu. Plitko

Obični cjevaš, šareni stanar morskoga dna A fan worm, a colourful seabed tenant

dno okružuje najveći dio parka; jedino se kod otočića Peneda dubina spušta na 50 metara. Lubini, orade, cipli, salpe i ostale vrste riba nesmetano plove, i to sve poveći primjerci. Unatoč dubinskom prigušenju boja, dno se još šareni od brojnih algi, spužvi, zvjezdača, puževa i ostalih slabo pokretnih stanara dna. Između njih viri riba pirka i pokazuje svoje nepravilne, tamne crvenkasto-smeđe pruge i veliku plavu mrlju na trbuhu. Dno uskoro postaje ravnije i jednoličnije. Mekani pijesak i mulj zamjenjuju kamen. Poput luksuznog suncobrana na vodenoj plaži uzdiže se veliki kožasti perjaničar. Ovaj žućkasti mnogočetinaš svojom škržnom lepezom filtrira morsku vodu i hrani se sitnim organizmima, a u slučaju opasnosti povlači je u cijev. Uskoro se dno ispred mene počelo tamniti, kao da se pružila šuma. To su livade morskih cvjetnica posidonije ili morske trave, kako je još zovu. Iako djeluje nezanimljivo, riječ je o jednome od najbogatijih, ali i najugroženijih ekosustava mora. Ribe u njima nalaze mrjestilište i jaslice, ali vrijedne su

15%

popu web sta u shop u

Spakirajte sigurnost Ugovorite putno zdravstveno osiguranje Put

Često putujete? Ne zaboravite spakirati i sigurnost. Croatia putno zdravstveno osiguranje pokriva kompletnu zdravstvenu njegu, što uključuje nadoknadu troškova liječenja za hitne slučajeve, medicinsku njegu, posjete i konzultacije liječnika te prijevoz vozilom hitne pomoći ili helikopterom do najbliže bolnice. Osim o zdravlju, pobrinite se i za svoju prtljagu. Brzo i jednostavno ugovorite dodatno osiguranje i putujte opuštenije. Iskoristite priliku i osigurajte se online uz uštedu od 15%.

www.crosig.hr

i za cijelu zajednicu stanara. Osim toga, proizvode velike količine kisika. I usred te šume uzdižu se soliteri − školjke periske. Uzdižu se na sve strane, i to pravi komadi. Cvjetnice proizvode mnogo organske tvari kojima se periske hrane i upravo ovdje ove školjke dosežu zavidne dimenzije. Brijuni su stoga Mediteran kao što je nekad bio, a tvori ga mozaik kulture, prirode  i turizma.

ourists are sitting in the shade of trees at the Školjka Cafe on the Island of Veliki Brijun, in a courtyard hiding behind doors and old buildings from the hustle and bustle of groups visiting the island. They’re sipping at their coffees, whose sugar sachets read the following: What were Brijuni once? An island desert… From this desert paradise was created. Karl von Thaler, 1911 Then, something flies in and immediately out of the wall of a house. This mysterious flyer came out of a hole on the edge of wooden blinds. A few minutes later, a Eurasian hoopoe flutters past, whose great feather crown stands out against its brown and black body. At an incredible speed, fluttering its wings almost only once, it flies back to the hole. Its chick pokes its head out and opens its beak, which the parent hoopoe stuffs with delicious worms. Three seconds later, the parent disappears, and the chick retreats into the safety of the nest in the wall of an old villa. The Brijuni Islands are perhaps today a paradise, but they were never an ordinary

desert. The Brijuni desert has increasingly been rated as something authentic and outstanding. The Brijuni National Park doesn’t just have a safari park with ostriches, giraffes and elephants, but is also an archipelago whose nature is authentically Mediterranean. To get to these new-found, authentically Mediterranean treasures, you should first get past the obvious ones. Riding in an electric car on the winding roads of Veliki Brijun is like travelling through different periods of history which has lasted for millennia, ever since the Illyrians decided to inhabit the island. With the arrival of the Romans, the island started thriving and soon became famous across the Adriatic and throughout the entire Roman Empire. The villa in Verige Bay with three terraces,

a complex of temples, space allocated for sports and recreation, and the reception of guests must have been a wonderful place to live in. The vicinity of the mainland, beautiful beaches and a moderate climate were ideal living conditions. Taking a leap closer in time, you’ll find the foundations of a Byzantine castrum on the opposite side of the island. Its many rooms testify to the fact that, from the 2nd century BC to the 16th century AD, the Romans, the Goths, the Byzantines, the Franks and finally the Venetians ruled here. The island had already started to lose on importance when in 1331 it fell under the rule of Venice, and in the next 466 years the situation worsened. Its residents emigrated because of outbreaks of the plague and malaria, wars, pillage and exploitation, and so by the end of the 17th century, the Brijuni Islands were almost uninhabited, all until the end of the 19th century when the Austrian industrialist Paul Kupelwieser turned the abandoned island into an elite hotel and spa complex with golf courses. Names such as Thomas Mann and James Joyce, Francis Ferdinand and the German Emperor Wilhelm II are only a tiny part of the glamour of the time. In 1945 with Yugoslavia, the island entered a new chapter of fame by having become the residence of Tito, president of then Yugoslavia. Besides world aristocracy, Brijuni were also visited by actors, such 01 Obilje cvijeća raste na Brijunima An abundance of flowers grows on Brijuni 02 Morska zvjezdača A starfish

46 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

We know where to find the best real estate! Discover Luxury properties, a new category on njuskalo.hr CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 47

Plitko more oko Brijuna The shallows surrounding Brijuni

as Sofia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, etc. Today, these remains are mainly incorporated into Brijuni’s greenery, a balanced mosaic of spacious meadows, some of which are part of a golf course. Here, you have rabbits hopping around, fallow and spotted deer grazing, and peacocks strutting about. A significant part of Brijuni is covered by forests, and − unlike most of Croatia’s coast dominated by airy and fragrant Aleppo pine − the Brijuni are dominated by the holly oak tree. In the entire forest, there’re almost no bushes at all, and the treetops are snipped off like in wellkept parks, which is the work of the deer’s hungry teeth. But, in places that are fenced off a real lush jungle flourishes. Entering the forest is not at all romantic − wriggling through the trees will feel more like an adventure. This is made even more difficult by climbing plants which are wrapped around the trees like heavy-duty barbed wire. A machete would come in handy, but naturally it’s not to be used either here in the park or anywhere on Brijuni. But most of the islands are still covered by undergrowth − degraded forms of the holly oak tree, even more impassable than the forest. Somewhere from the thicket, a nightingale’s beautiful song is heard, a true little symphony coming from the beak of a bird. In the meanwhile, a fearless squirrel is chewing on a pinecone that fell from a nearby pine tree. Along the southern cove of Veliki Brijun, around Cape Gromače, lies the locality of Saline, a bird reserve. During the 1960s, this former saltworks, surrounded by holly

48 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

oak trees and conifers, was transformed into two lakelets. There’s a small thatched cottage by one of the lakes. This is where Tito used to seek some peace and quiet, and enjoy the twitter of birds. Today, it’s used for bird watching. Green frogs are croaking in the background, males attracting females. A European pond turtle is resting comfortably on a dry tree, absorbing the sun, listening to the faintest of sounds, ready to dive into the safety of water. A heron marches slowly through shallow waters, ducks, Eurasian coots and common moorhens sail along the shore, while old world flycatchers and other singing birds flutter around tree branches. With its preserved and shallow coves, and ideal rocky and pebble beaches, the rugged coastline of Brijuni is a real gem. The waves splash against the rocks where dinosaurs once walked leaving their footprints behind, now hardened into solid rock as witnesses from millions of years ago. A few dolphins are swimming along the coast, jumping out of the water every now and then. They’re hunting. The fishermen, on the other hand, aren’t very happy about the competition, but these marine mammals have the right to undisturbed hunting here in the national park. A nearby islet has been occupied and turned into a nesting colony by seagulls. Be careful while walking around the undergrowth and bushes, and watch out for swooping birds, making sure you don’t step onto one of the many nests. While seagull nests are mostly in the open, the nests of European shags are deep in the undergrowth. These black birds are a rela-

tive of the great black cormorant, but are tied to the sea. What they have in common is a successful fishing technique. They are deep divers, and dry themselves by spreading their wings wide on the rocks along the coast. For many, however, the greatest value of the Brijuni Islands is the sea and the life in it. As a national park, it’s an oasis of peace, where the fish are left undisturbed, to breed and grow. Most of the national park is surrounded by shallows; the water is the deepest around the Islet of Peneda − 50 metres. European bass, gilt-head bream, flathead grey mullet, salema porgy and other species of fish are all left undisturbed here, all larger in size. Despite the fact that colour loses on intensity underwater, the sea bottom is indeed very colourful thanks to the many algae, sponges, starfish, sea snails and other slow-moving tenants of the bottom of the sea. Surrounded by them, a painted comber is peeking through, showing off its irregular, dark red and brown stripes, and a big blue stain on its stomach. The bottom soon becomes flatter and more uniform. Here, rock has been replaced by soft sand and mud. A feather duster worm is opening like a luxurious parasol on a water-beach. This yellowish bristleworm uses its feather-like crown to filter-feed on tiny organisms, and in case of danger, it pulls itself back into its tube. Soon, the bottom before you starts to darken, as if a forest covers it. These are Posidonia or seagrass meadows. Although these meadows seem unattractive, they’re one of the richest yet most endangered marine ecosystems. Many fish have their hatcheries and nurseries in these meadows, which are also very valuable for a whole community of tenants. They also produce large amounts of oxygen. In the midst of these forests, towers rise − noble pen shells. Large pieces grow and rise throughout. Flowering plants produce many organic substances that noble pen shells feed on, which is why these shells reach such enviable sizes here. The Brijuni Islands are a piece of the Mediterranean as it once was, created by a mosaic of culture, nature and tourism. 

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 49

kvarner region tourist board, 51410 opatija, nikole tesle 2 t +385 (0)51 272 988, f +385 (0)51 272 909, e kvarner@kvarner.hr “kvarner info - adriatic gate”, t +385 (0)51 623 333, 628 888 f +385 (0)51 623 334, e info@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr

Visit KVARNER Croatia’s best kept secret

Diversity is beautiful

REPORT

Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Tradicija, vrhunski dizajn, glamur i stil u srcu Zagreba Tradition, exceptional design, glamour and style in the heart of Zagreb

restižni zagrebački hotel Esplanade, poznat desetljećima kao hram vrhunske gastronomije, tradicije, dizajna i užitaka, sagrađen je davne 1925. godine s ciljem pružanja luksuznog smještaja i usluga putnicima glasovitog Orient Expressa, koji je prometovao na liniji Pariz − Istanbul. Ovaj arhitektonski dragulj Zagreba od svojih je početaka bio mjesto ključnih društvenih događanja glavnoga grada, stoga ne čudi da su poznate osobe oduvijek odsjedale upravo u hotelu Esplanade, a među njegove se istaknute goste ubrajaju kraljevske obitelji, državnici, filmske i glazbene zvijezde. Elegantnu interijeru suvremena ozračja uz očaravajuću kombinaciju secesijske arhitekture pridonose i visokopersonalizirana usluga te najnoviji tehnološki trendovi koji svakom gostu omogućuju nezaboravan doživljaj boravka u ovome povijesnom hotelu smještenome u neposrednoj blizini svih glavnih znamenitosti. Svaka od pomno dizajniranih i prostranih soba i apartmana uz tradicionalan holivudski glamur i pravi osjećaj doma nudi i besplatan bežični pristup internetu, Health Clubu te mnoge inovativne usluge. Smještaj upotpunjuje vrhunski doživljaj objedovanja uz jedinstven pristup

52 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

suvremenoj interpretaciji hrvatske kuhinje koju predvodi chefica Ana Grgić. Profinjeno ozračje restorana Zinfandel’s s kultnom terasom Oleander nudi nezaboravno fine dining iskustvo, dok živopisni Le Bistro pruža ugodno ozračje pariškoga šika. Kozmopolitski Esplanade 1925 Lounge Bar nudi kreativan izbor koktela i ukusnih zalogaja te glazbu DJ-a. Osim toga, hotel Esplanade pruža i brojne prostore za organizaciju događanja i gala svečanosti od kojih se svojim kupolastim krovom najviše ističe veličanstvena Smaragdna dvorana. Ovaj simbol Zagreba, sinonim za vrhunsku uslugu i eleganciju, uspio se nametnuti kao istinska zvijezda u regiji, što dokazuju i brojne nagrade za besprijekornu kvalitetu. Spoj tradicije, profinjenosti, izvanredne usluge i posebne, iskrene veze sa Zagrebom, sugrađanima i svakim gostom svrstavaju hotel Esplanade među jedinstvene hotele u svijetu koje svakako  valja posjetiti.

agreb’s prestigious Esplanade Hotel − which has been famous for decades as a temple of exceptional gastronomy, tradition, design and pleasure − was built in 1925 for the purpose of offering luxury accommodation and service to passengers of the famous Orient Express along the Paris-Istanbul line. Since its very beginnings, this architectural gem has been the centre stage of Zagreb’s key social events. So it comes as no surprise that celebrities have always flocked to the Esplanade, amongst whom members of royal families, statesmen, and film and music stars. The hotel’s elegant and modern interi-

or coupled with its enchanting Art Nouveau architecture, highly personalised service, and state-of-the-art trends in technology offer each guest an unforgettable stay in this historic hotel, located near all the famous landmarks of the city. Each of its thoughtfully designed and spacious rooms and suites exudes an air of traditional Hollywood glamour, offering a true sense of a home away from home, free Wi-Fi, access to the hotel’s Health Club, and many other innovative services. Your stay is complemented by exceptional culinary experiences made possible through Executive Chef Ana Grgić’s uniquely modern interpretation of Croatian cuisine. The sophisticated ambience of the hotel’s Zinfandel’s Restaurant with its cult Oleander terrace offers an unforgettable fine dining experience, and its lively Le Bistro the cosy atmosphere of Parisian chic. The cosmopolitan Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail Bar offers a creative selection of cocktails and delicious bites, with a DJ taking care of the music. In addition, the Esplanade is an ideal venue for different events and gala dinner parties, with its magnificent Emerald Ballroom with its domed ceiling to be singled out in particular. A symbol of Zagreb and a synonym for top-quality service and elegance, the Esplanade has succeeded in earning star status in the region, substantiated by the numerous impeccable quality awards it has received. Being a blend of tradition, sophistication and extraordinary service, and having a special, sincere tie with the city of Zagreb, its residents, and each and every guest − it all makes the Esplanade one of the world’s unique, must-see hotels. 

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 53

PODRŽALI SMO LENDING OUR SUPPORT

Kako iz spaljenog drva nastaje novi život

oranka, simpatična i iznimno korisna ekološka kampanja koju je 2018. pokrenuo Savez izviđača Hrvatske kako bi pomogao u obnovi požarima opustošene prirode, nastavlja se i ove godine. Kampanja je lani pokrenula stotine tisuća ljudi, uključila više od 2500 volontera u akcije pošumljavanja, a u edukativnim aktivnostima održanima u četrdesetak vrtića i škola sudjelovalo je više od 5000 djece i mladih na temu zaštite šuma, prevencije požara i posljedica klimatskih promjena. Ove godine u planu je dodatno proširiti kampanju, uključiti više od 4000 volontera u akcije sadnje, posaditi više od 40.000 novih stabala, a edukativne radionice provesti u pedesetak vrtića i škola za oko 6000 djece i mladih. Najveći izazov u osmišljanju ovako velike neprofitne kampanje bio je doprijeti do velikog broja ljudi i uključiti ih u kampanju. U suradnji s agencijom Imago Ogilvy,

54 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

koja se od početka besplatno uključila u kampanju, osmišljeno je originalno rješenje. Od izgorjelih borova prikupljenih na požarištima u Dalmaciji izrađene su bojice, takozvane boralice. Boralice su jedinstvene pastelne bojice izrađene od pepela borova stradalih u požarima koje je proizveo i donirao Karbon. Građani se u akcije pošumljavanja, osim volontiranjem, mogu uključiti na jedinstven način − koristeći boralice mogu sami nacrtati svoje drvce, dati mu ime i putem posebne web aplikacije posaditi ga u virtualnu šumu na adresi www.boranka.hr, koju je za potrebe kampanje besplatno osmislila i razvila agencija Bornfight. Za svako drvce posađeno na stranici boranka.hr, volonteri Boranke zasadit će pravu sadnicu na požarištu. Kako raste virtualna šuma, tako se povećava i broj živih sadnica u prirodi. Simbolički, iz spaljenog drveta nastaje nov život − iz crno-bijelog požarišta rađa se šuma puna boja. Od crnog pepela u požarima izgorjelih stabala u Dalmaciji stvaraju nove zelene šume. Samo je u prošloj godini besplatno podijeljeno više od 100.000 boralica, a nacrtano i posađeno više od 25.000 novih stabala. Zbog svoje originalnosti kampanja Boranka već je osvojila brojne nagrade u Hrvatskoj i inozemstvu, a na ovogodišnjim Danima komunikacija u Rovinju završila je kao najnagrađivanija kampanja od svih

prijavljenih radova. Boranka je ujedno i prva neprofitna kampanja u povijesti Hrvatske koja je osvojila nagradu Grand Prix Effie za najučinkovitiju kampanju cijelog natjecanja, ostavivši tako iza sebe brojne uspješne komercijalne visokobudžetne kampanje. Glavni partneri izviđačima u ovom su projektu Hrvatska gorska služba spašavanja (HGSS), Hrvatske šume i Udruga hrvatskih dragovoljaca Domovinskog rata (UHDDR). U kampanju su se, osim domaćih, uključile i brojne strane institucije pa tako kampanju podržavaju Europski parlament, Američka gospodarska komora te veleposlanstva Kanade, Velike Britanije i SAD-a. Boranka je već sada omogućila tisućama djece i mladih iz svih krajeva Hrvatske da zasade svoje prvo stablo, a ne kaže se slučajno da se onaj tko zasadi vlastito stablo i ubuduće bolje odnosi prema prirodi. Ova kampanja dokaz je da je, kad se radi sa srcem, moguće čak i od crnog pepela stvoriti nove zelene šume, a dajući ljudima u ruke pravi alat (boralice), svi zajedno možemo stvoriti vidljivu promjenu te idućim generacijama ostaviti bolji svijet. Više informacija o kampanji te kako se uključiti, donirati ili sudjelovati na neki drugi način može se naći na službenoj stranici kampanje na adresi www.boranka.hr ili direktnim upitom na  info@boranka.hr.

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos: Savez izviđača Hrvatske/Scout and Guide Association of Croatia

How new life is born from burnt down wood

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 55

oranka (coined form the Croatian word bor for pine tree and the Croatian word bojanka for colouring book), an extremely useful environmental campaign launched in 2018 by the Scout and Guide Association of Croatia to help reforest areas destroyed by wildfires, is continuing this year too. Last year’s campaign activities set thousands of people in motion, got more than 2,500 volunteers involved in reforestation activities, and more than 5,000 children and young people participated in educational activities held in about forty kindergartens and schools on topics such as forest protection, fire prevention and the effects of climate change. This year’s activities are aiming to expand the campaign, so as to involve more than 4,000 volunteers in reforestation activities, to plant more than 40,000 new trees, and to hold educational workshops in about 50 kindergartens and schools for about 6,000 children and young people. The biggest challenge in launching and running such a large non-profit campaign was finding a way to reach and involve a large number of people. In collaboration with the Imago Ogilvy advertising agency, which have been involved in the campaign as volunteers since the beginning, an original solution was found. From burnt down pine trees collected at Dalmatia’s wildfire sites coloured pencils are made called boralice (coined form the Croatian word bor for pine tree and the Croatian word bojalice for

56 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

coloured pencils). Boralice are unique pastel coloured pencils made from the ashes of pine trees burnt down by wildfires, produced and donated to the campaign by the Karbon company. Besides volunteering, people can get involved in reforestation in a unique way − they can draw their own tree by using boralice, give it a name and, by using a special web application, plant it in a virtual forest at www.boranka.hr, which was designed and developed free of charge by the Bornfight digital innovation company for the purposes of the campaign. For every tree planted at www.boranka.hr, Boranka volunteers will plant a real tree seedling at a wildfire site. As the virtual forest grows, so does the number of tree seedlings in nature. Symbolically, new life is born from burnt down wood − from lifeless and colourless wildfire sites forests full of life and colour are born. From Dalmatia’s trees destroyed by wildfires and turned into black ash, new green forests are given birth to. In 2018 alone, more than 100,000 boralice sets were distributed and more than 25,000 new trees were drawn and planted. Thanks to its originality, the Boranka campaign has already won numerous awards in both Croatia and abroad. At this year’s Days of Communication in Rovinj, it received the largest number of awards from all the entered campaigns in the category. Boranka is also the first non-profit campaign in Croatian history to have won the Effie Grand

Prix Award for most effective campaign from amongst all the competition, outstripping many successful commercial big-budget campaigns. The scouts’ main partners in this project are the Croatian Mountain Rescue Service (HGSS), the Croatian Forest company and the Association of Croatian Homeland War Volunteers (UHDDR). Besides Croatian institutions, numerous foreign institutions have also gotten involved in the campaign. More specifically, it’s drawn support from the European Parliament, the American Chamber of Commerce in Croatia, and the embassies of Canada, the United Kingdom and the United States of America to Croatia. Boranka has already enabled thousands of children and young people from all over Croatia to plant their very first tree, and it’s with good reason that people say that you’ll treat nature better in the future once you plant your first tree. This campaign is proof that, when you set your mind to it, you can turn even black ashes into a green forest, and that, when you give people the right tools (boralice), together we can all make a visible change and create a better world for future generations. More information about the campaign and how to get involved, donate or otherwise participate is available on the campaign’s official website at www.boranka.hr, or you can inquire directly at info@boranka.hr. 

Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

www.dalmatia.hr • info@dalmatia.hr

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 57

EVENTS 2019

EVENTS 2020

1 - 12 October STRADUN CLASSIC

24 January - 2 February DUBROVNIK FESTA

18 October - 8 November AUTUMN MUSIC VARIETY

2 - 9 February FESTIVAL OF ST. BLAISE

14 - 20 October GOOD FOOD FESTIVAL

20 - 25 February DUBROVNIK CARNIVAL

December 2019 - January 2020 DUBROVNIK WINTER FESTIVAL

17 April - 2 June DUBROVNIK MUSICAL SPRING

58 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

24 - 26 April DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE 17 - 19 April AKLAPELA Dalmatian songs festival 24 - 26 April DUBROVNIK HALF MARATHON 5 - 12 June ORLANDO FURIOSO Cycle of baroque music

www.tzdubrovnik.hr

June LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE 21 June ANA IN TOWN Music Scene Festival

1 July - 31 August SUMMER EVENTS PROGRAM at Surroundings 10 July - 25 August 71st DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL

20 June - 6 July MIDSUMMER SCENE

August ŠIPAN SUMMER FILM SCHOOL

28 June - 5 July TINO PATTIERA International Opera Arias Festival

26 August - 18 September DUBROVNIK IN LATE SUMMER Music Festival

22 September - 2 October STRADUN CLASSIC 6 - 30 October AUTUMN MUSIC VARIETY 19 - 25 October GOOD FOOD FESTIVAL December 2020 – January 2021 DUBROVNIK WINTER FESTIVAL ADVENT IN THE CITY NEW YEAR’S EVE CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 59

OBALA THE COAST

TZ grada Dubrovnika/Dubrovnik Tourist Board

DUBROVNIK, UVIJEK PUN Å½IVOTA DUBROVNIK, ALWAYS VIBRANT

60 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Dubrovnik je živ grad tijekom cijele godine i zabluda je njegovu vitalnost poistovjećivati isključivo s ljetnim mjesecima. Osobito je čarobno posjetiti Grad u nekome mirnijem, meditativnijem ozračju posezonskih i predsezonskih mjeseci, kada se može osjetiti u posve drukčijem, intimnijem i dojmljivijem svjetlu. Dubrovnik is a vibrant city throughout the year and it would be wrong to think that it’s vital only during the summer months. Your visit to Dubrovnik can be especially magical when its atmosphere is calmer and more meditative, such as in the pre-season and post-season months, when your experience of it will be completely different, more intimate and more impressive. Piše/By _ Lidija Crnčević

ubrovnik svojom ljepotom uspijeva uvijek iznova zaluditi brojne goste koji ga posjećuju tijekom cijele godine. Iako je ljeto vrijeme u kojemu je postao nezaobilazan na karti kružnih putovanja, izletnika i posjetitelja, sve su češće preporuke pa i pozivi da ga se posjeti u nekome mirnijem, meditativnijem ozračju posezonskih i predsezonskih mjeseci, kada se može osjetiti u posve drukčijem, intimnijem i dojmljivijem svjetlu. Dubrovnik je živ grad tijekom cijele godine i zabluda je njegovu vitalnost poistovjećivati isključivo s ljetnim mjesecima. A cijela ova 2019. protječe u Dubrovniku obilježavanjem značajnih obljetnica koje potvrđuju snažnu višestoljetnu isprepletenost i suživot njegove prošlosti i sadašnjosti. Prije četiri desetljeća, povijesna jezgra ili Grad, kako Dubrovčani nazivaju to pulsirajuće kameno srce okruženo zidinama, upisan je na UNESCO-ov reprezentativni popis svjetske zaštićene baštine, čime su njegovi stanovnici obvezani čuvati ovaj komadić autentičnosti i identiteta iznimne univerzalne vrijednosti. Prije deset godina pridružila se UNESCO-ovoj reprezentativnoj listi nematerijalne baštine čovječanstva Festa sv. Vlaha, kojom pučanstvo već 1047 godina iskazuje ljubav i poštovanje prema sv. Vlahu, nebeskome zaštitniku Grada koji svetac nosi na dlanu, a Dubrovčani u srcu. Tradicija štovanja sveca ostala je jednako živa svih ovih godina, ne samo među hodočasnicima koji dolaze u Grad na procesiju i grličanje (poseban blagoslov grla) nego i svima onima koji se zateknu u njemu početkom veljače. Svi tada svjedoče očuvanoj tradiciji prebogatoj običajima, posebno tijekom procesije, kada se ulicama grada nose relikvijari i barjaci župa iza kojih idu vjernici pjevajući pobožne pjesme, mnogi od njih u narodnim nošnjama koje se vade iz škrinja posebno za ovu prigodu. Dubrovnik je, kamo god pogledaš, bogat arhitekturom u

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 61

čijoj se izvanjskoj ljepoti nalazi snažni simbolički značaj, a kada ga i ne poznajete, nekim znakovima daje naslutiti svoje postojanje. U Dubrovniku je 2019. godina proglašena Orlandovom godinom, u spomen na 600. obljetnicu postavljanja kipa istoimenog viteza s dvora Karla Velikog, koji se nalazi na centralnom gradskom trgu, ispred crkve sv. Vlaha. Kip je odnedavno zaštićen posebnim skelama radi nužne obnove kamenih temelja i figure raspuknute protokom vremena. Tek će najupućenijima u povijest Grada biti poznata slobodarska ideja koja počiva u činu podizanja Orlandova kipa početkom 15. stoljeća, točnije 1419. godine na prostoru Luže. Ideja slobode bila je u temeljima male, snažne Dubrovačke Republike, kojoj su pod zaštitom Hrvatsko-Ugarskog Kraljevstva priznati svi atributi državnosti. Ta središnja točka prostora Luže ipak je puno poznatija kao mjesto s kojega su se

01 Dubrovnik iz zraka Dubrovnik from the air

brojnim umjetnicima iz cijeloga svijeta. Ne dopuštaju da budu poražene, dapače, bore se i pronalaze načine da zadrže ambijentalnost svojih predstava kojom su se kao svojom posebnošću nametnule kao jedan od vodećih europskih festivala. Ambijentalnost je smjestiti predstavu u prostor kojemu gotovo sudbonosno pripada. Nije slučajno tvrđava Lovrijenac stekla status idealne pozornice za izvođenje Shakespeareova Hamleta jer je i ona svojim došaptavanjima i zadanostima desetljećima kreirala svako uprizorenje bolnoga života danskog kraljevića. Od 1952. godine, kada je po prvi put zaživjela kao Elsinore, u njezinoj su se kamenoj utrobi okušali brojni Hamleti, među njima i oskarovac Daniel Day-Lewis, Derek Jacobi, Rade Šerbedžija, Goran Višnjić, a u ovoj obljetničkoj godini s tim će se izazovom prvi put suočiti jedan dubrovački glumac, Frano Mašković, čime je na najljepši način podcrtan dubrovački titraj koji mora počivati u temeljima Igara. Dubrovnik je ponosan na svoju prošlost, no želi graditi sadašnjost novim sadržajima i vrijednostima, u čemu mu znatno pomažu mladi, kreativni ljudi poput ekipe koja je osmislila i ostvarila ideju o otvaranju novoga, ambicioznog Muzeja crvene povijesti u nekadašnjim tvorničkim

TZ grada Dubrovnika/Dubrovnik Tourist Board

02 Dubrovačka trpeza Dubrovnik’s specialities

izvikivale važne obavijesti za pučanstvo, na kojemu su prijestupnici javno izvrgavani ruglu te, konačno, kao mjesto koje je dubrovačke trgovce stalno podsjećalo na točnost mjerenja koja se od njih očekivala. Na prvoj stubi ispod Orlandovih nogu urezana je osnovna mjerna jedinica od 51,2 cm, koliko je iznosila i duljina podlaktice vitezove desne ruke. Upravo je taj lakat u simbolici prave mjere bio inspiracija da se na dubrovačkoj kreativnoj sceni u godini posvećenoj Orlandu osmisli originalan suvenir − dubrovački lakat čokolade. U kartonsku ambalažu duljine 51,2 cm smještene su 23 mini mliječne čokoladice hrvatske proizvodnje na kartonskom predlošku, a nakon što se osladite, predložak vam ostaje kao uspomena − redalica u duljini dubrovačkog lakta s pričom o poveznici Orlanda i Grada. Obilježavanju dubrovačke Orlandove godine pridružio se i hrvatski proizvođač čokolade sa svojim vitezom od bijele čokolade u luksuznom i elegantnom pakiranju. Orlandov stup desetljećima je bio vertikala Grada s koje bi se podizanjem zastave Libertas dalo na znanje da su glumci u Gradu i da su počele Dubrovačke ljetne igre. Ove godine igre slave 70. rođendan. Od 10. srpnja do 25. kolovoza osvajaju prostore Grada, pružajući gostoprimstvo

62 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

K. Živković

D. Lenert

V. Jerinić

Lucija Tomašić Šarić

Ivan Pažanin

Dino Galvagno

prostorima u Gružu. Pažljivo promišljenim postavom i brojnim predmetima koji se ondje mogu vidjeti, od kioska K67, crvenog Yuga 55, pisaćeg stroja, scenografski vjerno prikazanih kuhinja i spavaćih soba u kojima se odvijao život u bivšoj socijalističkoj državi, Muzej crvene povijesti razgrnuo je zastor i ponudio pogled prema ne tako davnoj prošlosti, a taj je najmlađi dubrovački muzej na TripAdvisoru vrlo brzo zasjeo na prvo mjesto među dubrovačkim muzejima. Zabluda je misliti kako je Dubrovnik najčarobniji ljeti jer je već u listopadu jedinstveni gastronomski Good Food Festival u organizaciji Turističke zajednice Grada Dubrovnika više nego dovoljan razlog da se posjeti. Zimski festival i doček Nove godine na Stradunu sljedeći su idealan povod da se dođe, a potom Festa sv. Vlaha.... Grad je živ, a izbor trenutka u kojemu ga uživati ovisi isključivo o putnicima namjernicima! 

think that it’s vital only during the summer months. In 2019, Dubrovnik’s marking a number of important anniversaries, all confirming the strong, centuries-old interlacement and coexistence of its past and present. Four decades ago, the historical centre or the City − which is what the residents of Dubrovnik call this pulsating heart of town built of stone and surrounded by walls − was put on the UNESCO World Heritage List, obliging its inhabitants to preserve this piece of authenticity and identity of exceptional global value. Ten years ago, the Festivity of Saint Blaise was put on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. With the festivity the people of Dubrovnik have been demonstrating their love and respect for

St. Blaise, the heavenly patron saint of the City − which the saint carries in the palm of his hand, and the people of Dubrovnik in their hearts − for as many as 1047 years. This tradition of worshiping Saint Blaise has remained alive throughout all these years, and this not only amongst the worshipper who come to Dubrovnik for the procession and a special ritual blessing of the throat called grličanje, but also amongst all those who happen to be in Dubrovnik at the beginning of February. All are then witnesses to a preserved tradition abounding in customs, particularly during the procession, when reliquaries and parish flags are carried through the streets of Dubrovnik followed by a procession of worshipers singing religious songs, many of whom wear their traditional folk costumes taken out of

V. Jerinić

ith its beauty, Dubrovnik manages to amaze its many guests over and over again who visit it throughout the year. Although summer is a time when it’s become a must on cruise itineraries, for holidaymakers and visitors, recommendations and invitations to visit it when its atmosphere is calmer and more meditative − such as in the pre-season and post-season months, when your experience of it will be completely different, more intimate and more impressive − have been increasing. Dubrovnik is a vibrant city throughout the year and it would be wrong to 02

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 63

01-02 Muzej crvene povijesti Red History Museum 03 Torba za plažu, dubrovački suvenir A beach bag, a souvenir from Dubrovnik

chests especially for the occasion. Wherever you look in Dubrovnik, it’s rich in architecture, whose exterior beauty has a powerful symbolic significance, and regardless of whether you’re familiar with it or not, there are signs that give away its existence. Dubrovnik proclaimed 2019 the Year of Orlando, commemorating the 600th anniversary of the erection of the Statue of Orlando − a knight serving under Charles the Great − located at the central town

64 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

square outside the Church of St. Blaise. The statue has recently been supported by special scaffolding put up for the purpose of restoring both the stone foundation and the statue that cracked over time. Only the most well-informed about the history of Dubrovnik know the libertarian idea that lies behind the act of erecting the Statue of Orlando in the early 15th century, in 1419 to be precise, in the space of Luža. The idea of liberty was at the very foundation of the small yet powerful Republic of Ragusa, which enjoyed the status of full statehood recognised under the aegis of the Croatian-Hungarian Kingdom. However, this central point of Luža is far better known as the place where important notices for the population were called out, at which offenders were publicly mocked and, finally, as a place that persistently reminded the merchants of Dubrovnik of the expectation placed before them to always measure the goods they sold accurately. The basic

M. Skvrce

H. Margaretić

unit of measurement − 51.2 cm, to be precise, which is how long Orlando’s right forearm is − is chiselled into the first step below Orlando’s feet. It was exactly this elbow unit of measurement, which is symbolic of the ancient cubit unit, that, in the year dedicated to Orlando, inspired the creation of an original souvenir from Dubrovnik − the Dubrovnik elbow-length chocolate. A 51.2 cm long cardboard package houses 23 mini milk chocolate bars produced in Croatia on a cardboard back, and once you have your chocolate, you’re left with a souvenir − the story about what links Orlando and Dubrovnik in Croatian and English on a Dubrovnik elbow-length cardboard back. Marking Dubrovnik’s Year of Orlando was also joined by a Croatian chocolate manufacturer with their white chocolate knight in a luxurious and elegant package. For decades, the Statue of Orlando has been the vertical of the City, where the Libertas flag would be raised serving as a public announcement that actors are in town and that the Dubrovnik Summer Festival opened. Being the 70th edition of the summer festival, this year’s event was a jubilee one. From 10th July to 25th August, the festival took over city venues, having welcomed countless artists from around the world. The festival won’t accept defeat. Quite the contrary, it’s been struggling and finding ways to keep the ambient quality of its performances, thanks to which the Dubrovnik Summer Festival has been considered to be one of the leading summer festivals in Europe. Giving a theatre performance an ambient quality is staging the performance in a space which it almost fatefully belongs to. It’s no coincidence that the Lovrijenac

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 65

Dubrovnik Card

Special tourist discount card Available at all Tourist Information Offices, Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

Includes free entrance to cultural institutions and public transport rides No charge for children up to 7 y.o. Download the Dubrovnik Card brochure here

www.dubrovnikcard.com 66 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery... and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

Creating luxury villas in south Croatia since 2004

Abis Consulting Ltd. Nikole Tavelica 50, 21000 Split, Croatia

(St. Lawrence) Fortress was given the status of ideal stage for the performance of Shakespeare’s Hamlet, for the fortress has for decades created every staging of the painful life of the Prince of Denmark with its promptings and givens. Since 1952, when Lovrijenac became Elsinore Castle for the first time, in the stone womb of the fortress numerous actors have breathed life into their interpretation of Hamlet, including Oscar-winner Daniel Day-Lewis, Derek Jacobi, Rade Šerbedžija, Goran Višnjić, with this year’s challenge taken on and anniversary role played by a Dubrovnik-born actor, Frano Mašković, which highlighted in the most beautiful way the Dubrovnik vibe that should lie in the very foundation of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Dubrovnik’s proud of its past, but aims to build its present with new facilities and values. In this, it’s greatly assisted by young, creative people, such as the team that designed and brought to life the idea of opening the new and ambitious Red History Museum on the premises of what was once a factory in the neighbourhood of Gruž. Carefully thought-out displays and countless exhibits, from a K67 kiosk, a red Yugo

Project Management

Construction Engineering

Architect Design

Fax +385 (0) 21 781 526 info@abis-croatia.com

abis-croatia.com

TZ grada Dubrovnika/Dubrovnik Tourist Board

Tel +385 (0) 98 265 151

Property Consulting

55 car, a typewriter, realistically displayed kitchens and bedrooms where life unfolded in the former socialist state, the Red History Museum has opened the curtains giving insight into a recent past. According to TripAdvisor, Dubrovnik’s youngest museum has very quickly been ranked as the best museum in Dubrovnik. It would be wrong to think that Dubrovnik’s most magical only during the summer

months. As early as in October, the unique Good Food Festival organised by the Dubrovnik Tourist Board is reason enough for a visit. The Winter Festival and New Year’s Eve on Stradun, Dubrovnik’s main street, are another perfect occasion, followed by the Festivity of Saint Blaise in February... Dubrovnik’s a vibrant city throughout the year, and the choice of the moment to enjoy  it depends solely on you.

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 67

REPORT

Valamar, Dubrovnik Za savršen poslovni dojam u prestižnoj UNESCO destinaciji The ultimate business experience in a prestigious UNESCO destination

elite li svoje poslovno događanje organizirati u Dubrovniku, odabrali ste jedno od najpoželjnijih odredišta. Od suvremenog uređenja i visokokvalitetnih konferencijskih sadržaja do besprijekorne usluge i vrhunske gourmet ponude u obliku rafiniranih menija, Valamarovi hoteli u Dubrovniku polažu mnogo truda u organizaciju sastanaka, seminara, kongresa, konferencija i ostalih poslovnih susreta. Hotel Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik 4* šest je godina zaredom nositelj prestižne nagrade „World Travel Award“ kao vodeći poslovni hotel u Hrvatskoj s najvišom razinom usluga i sadržaja, a njegov kongresni centar, jedan od najvećih u okolici, najpoželjniji je prostor za sve vrste po-

68 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

slovnih događanja, od manjih sastanaka do konferencija s 2000 uzvanika. Potpuno obnovljeni hotel Valamar Argosy 4* stvorio je ozračje za prvoklasne poslovne susrete. Uz prelijepo uređene vrtove, elegantan i prostran smještaj ovaj hotel zasigurno je idealna poslovna pozornica za manja okupljanja i sastanke. Želite li za svoje goste organizirati gala večere, svečane prijeme ili insentive oduševit će vas maštovite poslastice u režiji Valamarovih chefova poslužene na panoramskim terasama hotela Valamar Collection Dubrovnik President 5* s pogledom na more i otoke. Ne postoji druga prilika za prvi dojam. Učinite ga nezaboravnim u dubrovačkim  hotelima s potpisom Valamar.

f you decide to organise a business event in Dubrovnik, you’ve chosen one of the most desirable destinations. From modern design and top-quality conference amenities to impeccable service and gourmet menus made to perfection, Valamar hotels in Dubrovnik are investing their best efforts into organising meetings, seminars, congresses and other business events. The Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik Hotel 4* is a proud recipient of the prestigious World Travel Award, as Croatia’s Leading Business Hotel, for the past six years owing to its top-quality service and amenities. Its multifunctional congress centre, one of the biggest in the area, makes an ideal venue for all types of business events, from small meetings to conferences hosting up to 2,000 attendees. The fully renovated Valamar Argosy Hotel 4* offers an ideal ambiance for top-notch business events. With beautifully designed gardens, elegant and spacious rooms and gourmet treats this hotel is an ideal business stage for smaller meetings. Should you decide to organise gala dinners, receptions or incentives for your delegates, you will be nothing short of thrilled by the creative delicacies prepared by Valamar’s chefs served on the panoramic terraces of the Valamar Collection Dubrovnik President Hotel 5* overlooking the sea and the nearby islands. There is no second chance for a first impression. Make it unforgettable at Valamar hotels in Dubrovnik. 

70 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 71

MODA FASHION

Piše/By _ Dubravka Prpić Znaor Fotografije/Photos _ Mare Milin

Loredana Bahorić prije dvije je godine proslavila čak 30 godina modne karijere. Njezine kreacije nose dame koje ignoriraju trendove i koje žele imati odjevni predmet što nikad ne izlazi iz mode. Ovaj stilski foto-esej priča je o jednom lepršavom danu... Two years ago, Loredana Bahorić commemorated 30 years in the fashion industry. Her creations are worn by women who ignore trends and want to have a garment that’ll never go out of fashion. This stylistic photo-essay is a story about a breezy day...

oredana Bahorić iznimno je slavna domaća modna autorica koja njeguje jednostavan, nerijetko avangardan crno-bijeli stil. Vlasnica je brenda Charlie, jednoga od najzanimljivijih na ovim prostorima te se smješta u eksperimentalni dizajn koji mora biti nosiv. Naime, Loredana stvara ready-to-wear kojemu stalno pomiče granice neočekivanim detaljima i perforacijama. Najnoviji crno-bijeli vizuali pod imenom One Day / Jednom, snimljeni na pustoj plaži aparatom vrhunske fotografkinje Mare Milin i na koncu složeni u diptihe, prikazuju manekenku Emmu G. odjevenu u lepršave teksture. Kreacije nove kolekcije reciklaža su Loredaninih starijih modela, no Charlie design i s promjenama ostaje vjeran minimalističkom efektu elegantne siluete.

72 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

− Fotografije možete protumačiti na više načina: ljepota jednostavnosti življenja, sklad s prirodom, element prolaznosti, povezanost odjeće i krajolika… Neboje su oduvijek bile moja osnovna inspiracija i njihovo odvajanje vidim kao neki oblik krajnosti − izjavila je Loredana. Gotovo nikad ne koristi crnu i bijelu zajedno jer bijelu doživljava kao eteričnu, kao oblak najfinijeg parfema, a crnu kao nešto konačno, kraj nekoga nevidljivog kruga. − Mala, moćna ekipa, eteričan, tih i vrlo izdržljiv model i jedan stalak s odjećom na za Hrvatsku netipičnoj plaži koju od milja zovemo Normandija. U začuđujuće malo vremena složila sam fotografski esej koji je Lori nazvala One Day, a ja prevela u Jednom. Osjećala sam se kao da otvaram šampanjac… Malo se pomučiš oko čepa, plop! I idemo kući sretni i prepuni energije, lagano pijani od radosti stvaranja − prisjetila se fotografkinja Mare toga kreativnog, sunčanog dana. Ponekad je poveznica između fotografija samo grafička, dodaje Mare, a ponekad su unutar formata dvije različite fotografije jednog stylinga, tek zbog dinamike ovoga eseja. − A ponekad je poveznica više emotivna − nastavlja fotografkinja. − Naime, pokušala sam prikazati taj one day (jedan dan), to jednom, kroz oči osobe koja je na fotografiji. Dakle, izmjenjujem, filmskim jezikom rečeno, objektivan i pseudosubjektivan kadar. Pseudo jer sam ja snimila ono što moj model vidi. To nije njezina fizička stvarnost nego moja, promatrana mojim očima, s namjerom da svoj doživljaj i emociju režijski posudim njoj i svima vama. Loredana u svojem radu često reciklira te pritom odjevnim predmetima podari novi život. Ovaj je put mijenjala forme

jednostavnim ušicima, bušila kako bi dobila perforacije, dodavala personalizirane motive, na grudnjake dodavala perje… − U novoj sam kolekciji, preslagujući komade iz prijašnjih sezona, dizajn prikazala kao nešto što može pripadati bilo kojem vremenu. Osim što sam htjela odati počast sporoj modi i ekološkom načinu kreiranja, željela sam predstaviti odjeću koja ne traje samo nekoliko mjeseci, nego je kvalitetna i njezin dizajn traje dulje od sezone-dvije − istaknula je dizajnerica. Make-up na fotografijama potpisuje Petra Sever, a kosu (osim vjetra!) frizerski salon Sasha. Manekenka Emma G. članica je  agencije Talia model / Relatum.

oredana Bahorić is a remarkably famous Croatian fashion designer who nurtures a simple and often avant-garde, black-and-white style. She’s the owner of the Charlie Design brand, one of the most interesting in the region, a brand whose designs are experimental yet wearable. More specifically, Loredana has been creating ready-to-wear pieces that invariably push back the boundaries with unexpected details and perforations. Her latest black-and-white visuals called One Day − shot on an empty beach by the brilliant photographer Mare Milin and arranged in diptychs − portray model Emma G. dressed in breezy textures. Loredana’s latest collection brings her older designs now recycled, but regardless of the changes introduced Charlie Design has remained faithful to the minimalist effect of an elegant silhouette. − You can interpret the photos in many ways: the beauty of the simplicity of life, harmony with nature, the element of transience, the interconnection between clothes

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 73

74 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 75

76 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 77

78 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 79

and the environment... Non-colours have always been my underlying inspiration, and I see their dissociation as an extremity of sorts − says Loredana. She almost never uses black and white together because she perceives white as ethereal, as a cloud of the finest perfume, and black as something final, the end of some invisible circle. − A small yet powerful team, an ethereal, silent and very persevering model, and a single clothes hanging rack on an untypical beach for Croatia which we lovingly call Normandy. In a surprisingly short period of time, I put together a photo-essay that Lori called One Day. I felt like I was opening a bottle of champagne... A bit of trouble with the cork, and then pop! And we go home happy and full of energy, drunk with the joy of creation − photographer Mare recalled that creative, sunny day. Sometimes the link between the photos is only graphic, Mare explains, and sometimes there’re two different photos of a single styling within the format, just to make the essay dynamic. − And sometimes the link is more emotional − the photographer continues − In other words, I’ve tried to present that one day through the eyes of the person in the photos. So, I’ve alternated, to use the language of cinematography, objective and pseudo-subjective shots. Pseudo because I shot what my model saw. And that’s not her physical reality but mine, my eyes saw it, with the intention of lending her and all of you my experience and emotion, almost like a film director. Loredana often recycles in her work, breathing new life into her pieces. This time, she’s changed the shapes by adding simple structure stitching, perforations and personalised motifs, or feathers to brassieres... − By rearranging pieces from my previous collections, in my new collection I’ve presented design as something that can belong to any time. Besides wanting to pay tribute to slow fashion and an environmentally friendly way of designing, my desire was to present clothes that last longer than a few months, pieces that are of high quality and whose design lasts longer than a season or two − the designer said. The photo shoot makeup is signed by Petra Sever, and the hairstyling (except the wind!) by the Sasha hair salon. The model Emma G. was hired from the Talia Model/  Relatum agency.

80 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CELINE, BALENCIAGA, LOEWE, GUCCI, VALENTINO, SAINT LAURENT, BOTTEGA VENETA, CHLOÃ&#x2030;, STELLA MCCARTNEY, GIVENCHY, DOLCE & GABBANA, VITA KIN, ALANUI, MONCLER, JOHANNA ORTIZ, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, BORSALINO, IVI JEWELRY, ASHERALI KNOPFER, DELFINA DELETTREZ, GIANVITO ROSSI, ALEVI, LINDA FARROW LUXE Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr instagram:mariastorehr

KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA CONTINENTAL CROATIA

Dvorac Eltz, Gradski muzej Vukovar Eltz Manor, Vukovar Municipal Museum

VUKOVAR PONOS HRVATSKE THE PRIDE OF CROATIA 82 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

D. Puharić

M. Šlafhauzer

S. Pjanić

Piše/By _ Slobodan Bukvić

Vukovar, grad na dvjema rijekama, odredište je na istoku Hrvatske koje svake godine privlači sve više turista. Slikovit krajolik, bogatstvo kulturne i povijesne baštine, sportski sadržaji te fina vina i kvalitetna gastronomija koja će zadovoljiti i najistančanije nepce neodoljiv su mamac za sve željne opuštanja i uživanja u raznovrsnoj ponudi kontinentalnoga turizma. Vukovar, a town on two rivers, is a destination in the easternmost part of Croatia, which has been attracting an increasing number of tourists year after year. Its scenic landscapes, its rich cultural and historical heritage, its sports facilities, fine wines and quality foods that satisfy even the most demanding of palates are a lure difficult to resist by those looking for relaxation and enjoyment in continental Croatia.

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 83

M. Šlafhauzer

D. Puharić

radovi na velikim rijekama gotovo su uvijek gradovi specifičnog šarma. Dunav, najveća europska rijeka, bio je i ostao poveznica Vukovara sa središnjom i istočnom Europom pa i šire, dajući ovome gradu na krajnjem istoku Hrvatske posebno obilježje. Posjetite li Vukovar i njegovu okolicu, zasigurno će vas oduševiti povijesnom i kulturnom baštinom, prekrasnim krajolicima te vrhunskom gastronomskom ponudom i vinima, ali ponajprije iskrenom dobrodošlicom, otvorenošću i ljubaznošću njegovih stanovnika. Smješten u Vukovarsko-srijemskoj županiji, Vukovar se može pohvaliti dugom,

bogatom poviješću i kulturom. Na to je utjecao njegov strateški položaj na dvjema rijekama, Dunavu i Vuki. Povijest ovoga grada i njegove okolice, s burnim događanjima i raznolikim civilizacijskim epohama, seže u daleku prošlost. Naseljavanje je počelo prije čak 5000 godina. Još od prapovijesti i antike ovdje su se izmjenjivale različite kulture koje su ostavljale svoj trag. Najpoznatija je ona vučedolska, koja je sinonim za prijelaz iz kamenoga u metalno doba. Arheološki lokalitet tek je djelomično istražen, ali ovo do sada pronađeno upućuje na to da u Vučedolu još uvijek postoje vrlo vrijedni nalazi ostavštine toga vremena. Među

D. Puharić

01 Vučedolska golubica The Vučedol dove 02 Terina A Vučedol terrine pot 03 Vučedolska čizmica The Vučedol boot 04 Muzej vučedolske kulture The Vučedol Culture Museum

84 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

njima je bez sumnje najpoznatija vučedolska golubica. Mnogi vrijedni predmeti iz toga razdoblja čuvaju se danas u Muzeju vučedolske kulture, otvorenome 2015. godine. Odmah je postao nezaobilazna točka interesa mnogih koji dolaze u ovaj kraj, koji svjedoči o nekim davnim vremenima. Suvremenim muzejskim postavom predstavlja se svakodnevni život ljudi onoga vremena kao i zanimljiva duhovna, filozofska, intelektualna i tehnološka dostignuća nekadašnje civilizacije. Izložen je i indoeuropski kalendar Orion, koji se zasniva na promatranju zimskoga neba. Naići ćemo i na dokaze da je u Vučedolu proizveden prvi metal (bronca) kao i prva pila na svijetu. Ondje su zabilježeni začeci gastronomije i proizvodnje piva. Međutim, vučedolska kultura najpoznatija je bila po vrhunskoj keramici s ukrasnim ilustracijama i porukama. Motivi na keramičkim posudama svjedoče o toj jedinstvenoj civilizaciji. Muzej prikazuje i izgled prve indoeuropske vučedolske kuće, ovdje su i najstarija kola na četiri kotača i niz drugih zanimljivih detalja iz života tadašnjeg Vučedola. I samo ime grada, Vukovar, ima zanimljivu priču. Prvi se put spominje 1220. godine kao Vukovo, odnosno Volco, Valco, Wolcou, Wolkov... U 14. stoljeću prvom se dijelu tog naziva dodaje mađarska riječ var koja znači mjesto, utvrda. Tako se već 1323. spominje kao Wolcovar, a u novije je vrijeme ime grada pretvoreno u Vukovar. Zanimljivo je spomenuti da je Vukovar kao treći u Hrvatskoj postao slobodan kraljevski grad i taj je privilegij stekao 1231. godine poveljom hercega Kolomana, za čije je vladavine bio sjedište velike Vukovske županije. Osim vučedolske i antičke kulture, na razvoj grada utjecalo je i srednjovjekovno razdoblje, kada je grad počeo dobivati današnji izgled. Ništa manje značajan nije bio ni utjecaj turskoga carstva jer su gotovo 161 godinu Turci ovdje bili prisutni. To se, između ostaloga, i danas očituje u gastronomiji kao i u korištenju niza riječi turskog porijekla. Godine 1745. Vukovar je postao središte najistočnije, Srijemske županije, pod značajnim utjecajem Austrije i Mađarske. Noviji dio Vukovara počeo se razvijati početkom 19. stoljeća. Dunav je oduvijek davao šarm ovome gradu i njegovoj okolici. To je osobito došlo do izražaja uvođenjem parobroda sredinom 19. stoljeća, kao i danas, plo-

vidbom turističkih brodova i sve većom povezanošću s Budimpeštom i Bečom pa i dalje, s Rumunjskom. Vukovar i okolica prava su dunavska promenada dvoraca, muzeja, arhitektonskih povijesnih cjelina, arheologije i osobitih prirodnih ljepota. Naravno, Vukovar je i važna izvozno-uvozna riječka luka Hrvatske. Ni najnovija stradavanja ni tragedija koja se dogodila ovom gradu početkom devedesetih nije od njega učinila grad patnje, beznađa i gubitka dostojanstva, nego je Vukovar naprotiv postao grad heroj i simbol ponosa cijele Hrvatske. Pokazao je i svojom dugom poviješću potvrdio da je jedan od onih nevjerojatnih gradova koje ne možete uništiti. Mogu se samo privremeno razoriti. Takvi gradovi uvijek će se ponovno uzdignuti do onoga što ih čini tako osobitima. Tomu u prilog idu i međunarodna priznanja i nagrade koje je Vukovar dobio kao posebna destinacija. Jedna je od njih i nagrada EDEN za Europsku destinaciju izvrsnosti za 2016./2017., koja je povezana s kulturnim turizmom. Želite li još bolje upoznati povijest i kulturnu baštinu Vukovara i okolice, svakako posjetite Gradski muzej Vukovar. Osnovan je 1946. godine donacijom uglednoga kolekcionara dr. Antuna Bauera, a izlaže novac, namještaj, oružje i umjetničke slike. Muzej je u početku otvoren u staroj baroknoj jezgri grada da bi 1966. godine bio premješten u barokni dvorac Eltz. Već je do 1991. ovaj muzej sadržavao značajnu zbirku od oko 50.000 izložaka raspoređenih u četiri zasebna muzejska prostora: Zavičajnu zbirku, Zbirku Bauer i galeriju umjetnina koja sadrži cjelovitu zbirku moderne hrvatske umjetnosti, Memorijalni muzej posvećen prvom hrvatskom nobelovcu Lavoslavu Ružički u njegovoj rodnoj kući kao i Muzej novije povijesti. Nažalost, zgrada dvorca Eltz tijekom Domovinskog je rata gotovo potpuno uništena. Poslije rata započela je dugotrajna obnova ovoga dvorca kao i muzejskog prostora. Godine 2014. završeni su svi radovi, a obnovljeni Gradski muzej Vukovar u okviru dvorca Eltz danas je jedinstven i moderan muzejsko-galerijski, znanstveni i multimedijski centar u kojem je predstavljena kulturna baština Vukovara i njegova okružja. Vrijedi posjetiti i franjevački samostan i župnu crkvu sv. Filipa i Jakova, kao i

Franjevački muzej, koji su smješteni na slikovitu brijegu iznad Dunava. Nakon što je bečki arhitekt Richard Jordan obnovio i proširio crkvu 1896./97. godine, dobila je karakterističan izgled trobrodne građevine i sa svojih je 58 metara postala treća po dužini u Hrvatskoj, odmah iza zagrebačke i đakovačke katedrale. U franjevačkom samostanu započela je i visokoučilišna tradicija u Vukovaru s visokim studijem filozofije i teologije. Kao dio kulturne baštine Vukovara treba još spomenuti i crkvu sv. Nikolaja, Bećarski križ, Mauzolej obitelji Paunović, Mauzolej obitelji Eltz, kapelu sv. Roka kod dvorca Eltz, baroknu kapelu sv. Ivana Nepomuka i živopisnu crkvicu sv. Petke na Adici. Simbol zaštite Vukovara prije 250 godina postao je sv. Bono. Vukovarski nokturno podsjetnik je na razaranja, stradanja i patnje Vukovara i njegovih stanovnika za vrijeme opsade i agresije. Tu su pod jednim imenom objedinjena sva mjesta tragedije, od Mjesta sjećanja ∑ Vukovarska bolnica 1991., masovne grobnice i spomen doma Ovčara, preko Memorijalnoga groblja žrtava iz Domovinskog rata do Memorijalnog centra i bijelog križa na ušću Vuke u Dunav. Ono što Vukovar čini tako osobitim upravo je snaga njegovih stanovnika da se izdignu iznad svih proživljenih nepravdi i stradanja. Štoviše, oni posjetiteljima, gostima i prijateljima ponosno pokazuju svoj grad i nastoje im boravak učiniti što ljepšim i ugodnijim. Oduševit će vas raznovrsni gastronomski slavonski specijaliteti i uz to provjerena fina vina poput graševine, zelenog silvanca, sauvignona, frankovke i drugih. Naravno, uz to ide probrana glazba koja će stvoriti jedinstven ugođaj i osjećaj opuštenosti. Ako ste kao pristalica aktivnog odmora došli u Vukovar, onda ste uistinu na pravome mjestu. Vukovar vam nudi velik izbor sportskih sadržaja. Kroz Vukovar prolazi međunarodna biciklistička staza EuroVelo 6, koja se proteže od Atlantika do Crnoga mora. Pravi ljubitelji avanturističkog biciklizma znaju da ta staza prolazi kroz razne usjeke i zbog visinskih je razlika velik izazov. Opušteniji biciklisti prepustit će se mirnoj vožnji po stazama uz Dunav po naseljenim mjestima, poljima, šumama i vinogradima te uživati u lijepim i slikovitim krajolicima upoznavajući pritom ljude i njihove običaje. Biciklom ili pješice može se doći i do Adice, park

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 85

M. Šlafhauzer 02

01 Bijeli križ na ušću Vuke u Dunav The white cross at the spot where the Vuka River flows into the Danube 02 Vječni plamen na Memorijalnom groblju žrtava iz Domovinskog rata The eternal flame at the Memorial Cemetery of the Victims of the Homeland War 03 Mjesto sjećanja ∑ Vukovarska bolnica 1991. Place of Remembrance ∑ the 1991 Vukovar General Hospital 04 Franjevački samostan, crkva sv. Filipa i Jakova te Vukovarski vodotoranj ∑ simbol hrvatskog zajedništva The Franciscan monastery, the Church of Saints Philip and James, and the Vukovar Water Tower ∑ A Symbol of Croatian Unity

86 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

M. Šlafhauzer

šume u centru grada gdje ćete osjetiti svježinu šume, mir i tišinu. Pravi raj! I ljubitelji sportskog ribolova naći će svoja zadovoljstva u Vukovaru, na Dunavu i Vuki, kao i mjestima u neposrednoj blizini. Oni koji vole konje i jahanje mogu potražiti konjički klub Dunavski raj, odmah iznad Vučedola, koji nudi zadovoljstvo jahanja prirodom i usto otkrivanje slikovitih predjela Vukovara i okolice. Ljeti Vukovar pruža mnoštvo mjesta za kupanje na Dunavu i Vuki, a za one koji ne odustaju od kupanja tijekom cijele godine tu je i novoizgrađeni zatvoreni olimpijski bazen kao i dva otvorena bazena s nizom zabavnih i rekreativnih sadržaja. Privlače li vas

vodeni sportovi, možete se odlučiti i za sportsko veslanje, ali i ležerniju vožnju po Dunavu i Vuki čamcima i kajacima. Za one još komotnije nudi se plovidba turističkim brodom, kako ga ovdje zovu, vukovarskim Waterbusom. Toj ugodnoj plovidbi možete dodati i malo mistike te Dunavom poslati svoju poruku u boci nadajući se odgovoru ∑ tko zna odakle i od koga. Grad i Turistička zajednica Vukovara trude se bogatim sadržajima privlačiti posjetitelje i turiste tijekom cijele godine nizom prikladnih manifestacija. U rujnu se održava Vukovarski etno sajam, a 18. studenoga obilježava se Dan sjećanja na žrtve Vukovara 1991. Naravno, prosi-

nac je u znaku adventa te božićnoga i novogodišnjeg ugođaja. Tu je i Vukovarsko lutkarsko proljeće, Festival cvijeća, Festival glumca, Festival nematerijalne kulturne baštine, Svi za jedno hrvatsko naj, Međunarodni dan Dunava i DunavArt, Festival komorne glazbe te već tradicionalni Vukovar Film Festival. Kako navodi jedna poruka turističke zajednice, posjetom Vukovaru proživjet ćete sve što je život: Vukovar je ponos... Vukovar je prkos… on je suza u oku, tuga u srcu... osmjeh na usnama. Vukovar je prošlost i budućnost. No osjetit ćete i njegovu sadašnjost u mnogobrojnim zanimljivim sadržajima te, što je možda najljepše, upoznati nadasve otvorene, iskrene, prijateljski raspoložene, dobronamjerne i ljubazne domaćine. 

owns on large rivers are, almost as a rule, towns of a specific charm. The Danube, Europe’s largest river, has remained Vukovar’s connection to Central and Eastern Europe and even beyond, imbuing Croatia’s easternmost town with a special charm. Vukovar and its surroundings are bound to delight you with their historical and cultural heritage, stunning landscapes and top-quality offer of foods and wines, but first and foremost with its residents’ hearty welcome, openness and kindness. Located in the Vukovar-Srijem County, Vukovar boasts a long and rich history and culture. This was influenced by its strategic position on two rivers, the Danube and the Vuka River. The history of Vukovar and its surroundings, given all its turbulent times and different historical periods, dates back to ancient history. People started settling there 5,000 years ago. Since prehistoric times, different cultures, one superseding the other, have been leaving their mark on Vukovar. The most famous one is the Vučedol culture, a synonym for the transition from the Stone Age to the Bronze Age. The archaeological site has only partially been explored, but the finds excavated so far indicate that the Vučedol site is still home to very valuable archaeological finds, a legacy from that time. One of the unquestionably most famous finds is the Vučedol dove. Many valuable objects from this period are today kept at the Vučedol Culture Museum, which opened its doors in 2015. It immediately became a not-to-be-missed point of interest for many who come to this region

that bears witness to ancient times. The museum’s exhibits portray the everyday life of the people of that time, as well as their fascinating spiritual, philosophical, intellectual and technological achievements. Orion, an Indo-European calendar, which is based on observations of the winter sky, is also on display. There is also evidence that the first ever metal (bronze) and the first ever saw in the world were produced in Vučedol, which also bears witness to early attempts at gastronomy and beer production. However, the Vučedol culture is best known for its high-quality ceramics with decorative illustrations and messages, with the motifs used on ceramic vessels testifying to this unique civilisation. The museum also has on display the first Indo-European Vučedol house, the oldest four-wheeled cart and a number of other interesting details from the everyday life of people in the then Vučedol. The name of the town itself, Vukovar, has an interesting story. It was first mentioned in 1220 as Vukovo, but also as Volco, Valco, Wolcou, Wolkov, etc. In the 14th century, the Hungarian word vár, which in translation means place or fort, was added as a suffix. And so, the town was referred to as Wolcovar as early as 1323, and finally as Vukovar. It’s worth pointing out that Vukovar was the third town in Croatia to have been granted the privilege and status of a royal free town, and this by Coloman of Galicia’s charter from 1231, during whose reign Vukovar was the seat of the great County of Vuka. In addition to the Vučedol and ancient cultures, the development of the town was also influenced during the medieval period, when Vukovar started acquiring its present appearance. Given the fact that the Turks were present in Vukovar for almost 161 years, the impact of the Ottoman Empire is no less significant. This is evident in, amongst other things, today’s local cuisine, as well as in the many words of Turkish origin that have remained in use to date. In 1745, Vukovar became the centre of the easternmost Srijem County under the significant influence of Austria and Hungary. The newer part of Vukovar started developing in the early 19th century. The Danube has always lent its charm to Vukovar and its surroundings. This particularly came to the fore with the introduction of tourist steamboats in mid-19th century, which in turn implied greater and improved connectivity with Budapest and Vienna,

as well as with Romania, much like today. Vukovar and its surroundings are a real promenade along the Danube of palaces and manors, museums, architectural, historical and archaeological sites, and special natural attractions. Of course, Vukovar is also a major Croatian inland port. Vukovar hasn’t been turned into a town of suffering, hopelessness and lost dignity by either the suffering or the tragedy that it lived through during the early 1990s. Quite the contrary, Vukovar has become a hero town and a symbol of pride of the whole of Croatia. It has demonstrated and its long history has confirmed that it’s one of those amazing towns that can never be destroyed. They can be torn down only temporarily. Such towns will always rise again to what makes them so special. This is supported by the international recognitions and awards that Vukovar has received as a special destination. One such award is the 2016/2017 EDEN (European Destination of Excellence) Award in cultural tourism. If you’d like to find out more about the history and cultural heritage of Vukovar and its surroundings, be sure to visit the Vukovar Municipal Museum. It was founded in 1946 by a donation from Antun Bauer, a renowned collector, whose collection showcases money, furniture, weapons and paintings. The museum was first opened in the old Baroque heart of town, and was later moved to the Eltz Manor in 1966. By 1991, the museum’s holdings kept a significant collection of about 50,000 exhibits displayed in four separate museum spaces: the Local Collection, the Bauer Collection and the Art Gallery displaying Croatian modern art, a Memorial Museum dedicated to the first Croatian Nobel Prize winner, Lavoslav Ružička, at his birth house, and the Museum of Recent History. Unfortunately, the Eltz Manor was almost completely destroyed during the Homeland War. It was only after the war, of course, that the renovation of the edifice itself and the museum space began, with all the works completed in 2014. The renovated Vukovar Municipal Museum within the Eltz Manor is today a unique and modern museum, gallery, and science and multimedia centre showcasing the cultural heritage of Vukovar and its surroundings. The Franciscan monastery, the parish Church of Saints Philip and James, and the Franciscan Museum located on a

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 87

88 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

M. Šlafhauzer

V. Vidaković

M. Šlafhauzer

S. Pjanić

M. Šlafhauzer

S. Pjanić

D. Puharić S. Pjanić G. Birindžić

picturesque hill overlooking the Danube are also worth a visit. The church was given its characteristic three-nave layout once the Viennese architect Richard Jordan renovated and expanded it in 1896 and 1897, and thanks to its length of 58 metres, it’s the third longest church in Croatia, outstripped only by the Zagreb and the Đakovo cathedrals. It was in the Franciscan monastery that tertiary education started in Vukovar with degrees offered in philosophy and theology. The Church of St. Nicholas, the Reveller’s Cross, the Mausoleum of the Paunović Family, the Mausoleum of the Eltz Family, the Chapel of St. Roch at the Eltz Manor, the Baroque Chapel of St. John Ne-

pomucene and the colourful Church of St. Parascheva of the Balkans on the famous river island which the locals call Adica are all worth singling out and visiting if you’re in Vukovar. St. Bono became the patron saint of Vukovar 250 years ago. The Vukovar Nocturne is a reminder of the destruction, pain and suffering of Vukovar and its people under siege during the Homeland War. Under one name, it encompasses the places and buildings in Vukovar where tragedies unfolded, starting with the Place of Remembrance ∑ the 1991 Vukovar General Hospital, the Ovčara Memorial Centre and a site of mass graves, the Memorial Cemetery of the Victims of

the Homeland War, the Vukovar Memorial Centre of the Homeland War, all the way to the white cross at the spot where the Vuka River flows into the Danube. What makes Vukovar so special is the strength of its people to rise above all the hardships and tribulations they faced. They proudly show their visitors, guests and friends their city, and strive to make their stay as amazing and enjoyable as possible. You’ll be delighted by the variety of Slavonia’s culinary specialities, all complemented by fine wines, such as Graševina, Sylvaner, Sauvignon, Frankovka and others. Of course, all’s accompanied by music to create a unique atmosphere and a sense of relaxation.

If what you’re looking for is an active holiday, then you’re in the right place as Vukovar boasts a wide range of sports facilities. The EuroVelo 6 international cycling route from the Atlantic Ocean to the Black Sea passes through Vukovar. True lovers of adventure cycling know that this trail goes through various mountain passes, and that it’s a great challenge because of the difference in altitude. Somewhat less adventurous cyclists will surely enjoy a more peaceful ride along the Danube leg of the route passing through populated places, fields, forests and vineyards, absorbing the beauty of picturesque landscapes while getting to know the locals and their customs. Whether by bike or on foot, you can also reach Adica, a forest park in the city centre, a perfect place to take in the freshness of the forest, and enjoy a bit of peace and quiet. A true paradise! If you’re a fan of sport fishing, in Vukovar, along the Danube and the Vuka River, and its surroundings you’ll surely indulge your passion. Lovers of horses and horseback riding should look for the Danube Paradise Equestrian Club, just above Vučedol, offering to take you horseback riding through nature, while you discover the picturesque landscapes of Vukovar and its surroundings. During summer, there are many spots on the Danube and Vuka ideal for swimming, and those who’re looking for a place to swim throughout the year can now do so in a newly built indoor Olympic-size swimming pool, as well as in two outdoor swimming pools with a vast array of fun and recreational facilities. If you’re passionate about water sports, you can always opt for rowing, or take a more leisurely boat ride along the Danube and Vuka, or go kayaking. Those of you who’re looking for something even more laid-back can take a ride on a tourist boat, the Vukovar Waterbus as the locals call it. Add a bit of mystique to this enjoyable voyage by sending a message in a bottle along the Danube hoping to some day get an answer ∑ who knows where and who from. Both the town and the Vukovar Tourist Board strive to attract visitors and tourists throughout the year by organising a variety of events and programmes. The Vukovar Ethno Fair is held in September, and on 18th November the Day of Remembrance of the Victims of Vukovar in 1991 is marked. December is, of course, reserved for the Advent, and the festive season. There’s also the Vukovar Puppet Spring, the Flower Fair, the Festival of Actors, the Intangible Cultural Heritage Festival, the All for One, One for Best Croatia festival, the International Danube and DanubeArt Day, the Chamber Music Festival and the already traditional Vukovar Film Festival. A message from the local tourist board states that a visit to Vukovar is an experience of all that life is: Vukovar is pride... Vukovar is defiance... It’s a tear in your eye, sadness in your heart... a smile on your lips. Vukovar is the past and the future. You’ll also experience its present thanks to many interesting facilities and programmes, and meet the most open, sincere, friendly, honest and kind hosts. 

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 89

Izdvojili smo deset zanimljivosti u našim odredištima koje vam želimo preporučiti u jesenskom razdoblju

Oslo 03

We’ve singled out some highlights that we’re recommending in the autumn period

Oslo − U filmu Snjegović najpoznatiji norveški detektiv Harry Hole, Nesbøov glavni junak, budi se u parku Frogner, među skulpturama velikoga norveškog kipara Gustava Vigelanda. Najljepši muzej na otvorenome sa 200 Vigelandovih veličanstvenih radova uistinu je nezaobilazan. Oslo − In the movie The Snowman, the most famous Norwegian detective Harry Hole, Jo Nesbø’s protagonist, wakes up in Frogner Park surrounded by the sculptures of the great Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland. This most beautiful outdoor museum with 200 of Vigeland’s brilliant sculptural works on display is an absolute must-see.

Odabrala/Selection _ Nada Mirković Ilustracije/Illustrations _ Dinko Kumanović

Pariz − Zlatna jesen katkad znači prekrasne sunčane dane, idealne za pariško kupanje − u ogromnom vanjskom bazenu hotela Molitor. Molitor je početkom tridesetih godina bio mondeno art deco gradsko kupalište, a sad je luksuzan hotel s pet zvjezdica i grijanim bazenom okruženim ležaljkama u kojem se možete kupati cijele godine. Paris − Golden autumn implies beautiful sunny days, ideal for bathing in Paris − in the huge outdoor swimming pool of the Molitor Hotel. In the early 1930s, Molitor was a trendy Art Deco public bath, and now it’s a luxury 5-star hotel with a heated swimming pool with deckchairs that can be used all year long.

Paris 10 Munich 06

Barcelona − Hobotnica sa žara u tipičnom katalonskom baru Bodega Quimet, koji obožava lokalno stanovništvo, reći će vam puno o tome koliko u ovom gradu razumiju i vole hranu. Čaša svježega bijelog vina kuće savršeno će dopuniti iskustvo koje nećete preplatiti. Barcelona − Grilled octopus served at Bodega Quimet, a typical Catalan bar much loved by the locals, will tell you a lot about how much they understand and love food in this city. A glass of their house white wine will perfectly complement the experience that you won’t overpay.

Barcelona 09

TOP 10 gradova cities

München − I kad prestane festival piva, Oktoberfest, u domu lokalnoga piva Löwenbräukelleru upoznajemo bavarsku kulturu svakodnevice, lokalne specijalitete, tradicionalne plesove i glazbu. Osobito je popularna otvorena krovna terasa s pogledom na pivnicu u vrtu. Munich − Once the beer festival, Oktoberfest, closes, there’s still a place where you can get to know the Bavarian culture of everyday life, try local specialities, dance traditional dances and listen to traditional tunes − Löwenbräukeller, a local Bavarian beer house. Their rooftop terrace overlooking the beer garden is especially popular.

Stockholm 05

Stockholm − Kako propustiti muzej u koji se ulazi laganim korakom, a izlazi plešući! Interaktvni muzej ABBA nudi virtualno isprobavanje svih kostima kultne švedske grupe, nastup u kojem postajemo peti član ABBE uz poznatu četvorku te svirke, a naše iskustvo čuva se na digitalnoj ulaznici pa ga možemo ponoviti i kod kuće, kad zaželimo. Stockholm − Make sure you visit the interactive, walk in and dance out ABBA Museum. In it, you can virtually try on all the costumes of the cult Swedish group, you can perform along the famous four as a fifth ABBA member, play gigs with them, etc. Your experience can then be stored on your digital ticket, so you can repeat it at home whenever you feel like it.

04 Helsinki

02 Copenhagen

Kopenhagen − Prag, najpoznatiji second hand shop na dvije odlične gradske adrese, nudi velik izbor otkačenoga danskog dizajna. Idealno mjesto za hipstere i modne blogere te sve one koji žele upoznati lokalnu scenu. Copenhagen − Prag, the most famous second-hand shop at two great city addresses, offers a great selection of unusual and unique Danish design. It’s an ideal place for hipsters, fashion bloggers and anyone looking to get to know the local scene.

Rim − Svakako posjetiti Giardino degli Aranci, Vrt naranči, skriven na brežuljku Aventinu, otvorenome samo tijekom dana. Kao drugi rimski parkovi na brdu, i ovaj nudi predivan pogled na grad i Michelangelovu kupolu bazilike sv. Petra. Rome − Make sure you visit Giardino degli Aranci, the Orange Garden, hidden on the Aventine Hill, open only during the day. Like all the other Roman hill parks, it offers beautiful views of Rome and Michelangelo’s dome of St. Peter’s Basilica.

Helsinki − Studio Aalto iz pedesetih godina prošloga stoljeća kultna je građevina i najbolji uvid u rad najpoznatijega finskog arhitekta Alvara Aalta. Obvezno treba obići i vrt s amfiteatrom za sastanke i razgovore o graditeljstvu jer umjetnost arhitekture ne može nastajati u ugođaju ureda. Helsinki − The iconic Studio Aalto building from the 1950s gives the best insight into the work of the most famous Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. Make sure you also visit its garden with an amphitheatre for meetings and discussions on architecture because architecture is an art that cannot be created in an office-like environment.

Skoplje − U ovome malenom gradu sve su znamenitosti na okupu pa se od središnjega trga može prošetati do Muzeja suvremene umjetnosti (Museum of Contemporary Art, MoCA), poklona poljske vlade razorenome gradu nakon potresa. Muzej ima nekoliko međunarodnih bisera i zanimljiv je primjer arhitekture s kraja šezdesetih godina prošloga stoljeća. Skopje − In this small town, all the sights are in the same place. So from the central square you can take a walk to MoCA, the Museum of Contemporary Art, a gift from the Polish government to Skopje after a devastating earthquake. The museum has several masterpieces, and is an interesting example of architecture dating from the late 1960s.

07 Skopje

04 Rome

Athens 08

Atena − Ovdje zaboravite na dijetu! Pronađite pješačku foodie turu poput Private Gourmet Food Walking Tour i uživajte u bogatstvu boja i okusa atenske tržnice Varvakios Agora, isprobajte tradicionalne recepte i upoznajte stvarni život drevnoga grada. Athens − Forget about dieting in Athens! Take a walking foodie tour like the Private Gourmet Food Walking Tour and enjoy the rich colours and flavours of Athens’s Varvakios Agora Central Market, try their traditional foods and get to know the real life of this ancient city.

MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

VELIČANSTVEN DANJU I NOĆU

92 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

MAGNIFICENT DAY AND NIGHT

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ Saša Pjanić

Pogled na Kraljevsku palaču u Madridu s terase hotela VP Plaza España Design A view of the Royal Palace in Madrid from the terrace of VP Plaza España Design Hotel

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 93

Brončani kip kralja Filipa III. Habsburškoga na Plazi Mayor A bronze statue of King Philip III at Plaza Mayor

94 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Pravo je vrijeme za posjet Madridu. Ove jeseni na stadionu Caja Mágica taj će grad ugostiti 18 nacionalnih teniskih reprezentacija finalista Davis Cupa, među kojima i Hrvatsku, aktualnu nositeljicu naslova prvaka. Dođete li, zacijelo nećete požaliti. U tišini kraljevskoga samostana ili navijačkoj buci, u miru popodnevne sieste ili živahnim noćima, Madrid je podjednako veličanstven grad. It’s a good time to visit Madrid. This autumn, its Magic Box Stadium, La Caja Mágica, is hosting 18 national tennis teams, Davis Cup finalists, including Croatia, the current champion. You won’t regret it. For, whether in the silence of the Royal Monastery or surrounded by fans making a racket, whether in the peace and quiet of an afternoon siesta or during lively nights, Madrid is a magnificent city.

Kupola bazilike sv. Lovre, kraljevskog samostana El Escorial The dome of the Basilica of St. Lorenzo, the El Escorial royal monastery

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 95

Šetnja hodnicima kraljevskog samostana i palače El Escorial A walk along the corridors of the Royal Seat of San Lorenzo de El Escorial

96 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Pogled na perivoj kraljevske palače El Escorial i samostansku baziliku sv. Lovre A view of the garden of El Escorial and the Basilica of St. Lorenzo

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 97

98 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

01 Katedrala Almudena Almudena Cathedral 02 Oltar samostana i palače San Lorenzo de El Escorial The altarpiece of the Royal Monastery of San Lorenzo de El Escorial 03 Portal i zvonici kraljevske bazilike San Lorenzo de El Escorial The portal and bell towers of the Basilica of St. Lorenzo de El Escorial 04 Oslikani svod iznad glavnog stubišta kraljevskog samostana i palače El Escorial (Luca Giordano, 1634. − 1705.) The painted vault above the main staircase of the Royal Seat of San Lorenzo de El Escorial (Luca Giordano, 1634-1705)

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 99

100 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Interijer Kraljevskoga kazaliÅ¡ta The interior of the Royal Danish Playhouse

01 Jedna od brojnih cervecería (pivnica) u staroj madridskoj četvrti One of the many cervecerías or pubs in one of Madrid’s old neighbourhoods 02 Mercado San Miguel, tržnica u blizini Plaze Mayor, omiljeno odredište gastronomada The San Miguel Market near Plaza Mayor, a favourite destination for food lovers

03 Španjolski književni klasici poput Cervantesa i de Vege sveprisutni su u četvrti Barrio de las Letras Spain’s literary classics like Cervantes and de Vega are ubiquitous in the Barrio de Las Letras or the Literary Quarter 04 Brojni štandovi s maslinama, pršutom, sirom ili tapasima na tržnici Mercado San Miguel Countless market stalls with olives, prosciutto, cheese or tapas at the San Miguel Market 05 Večernji gastronomski užitak An evening's gastronomic delight

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 101

102 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Šetnica Calle del Arenal odvest će vas ravno na glavni madridski trg Puerta del Sol The Arenal Promenade taking you straight to Puerta del Sol, Madrid’s main square Istočni ulaz na Plaza Mayor iz Calle de la Sal The Calle de la Sal entranceway to Plaza Mayor to the east

03-04 Impresivna madridska pročelja Madrid's impressive facades

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 103

P. Zimmer

je bolje prije gradske gužve protegnuti noge i kružiti malo oko nje. Slijedite šetnicu Cava de San Miguel, utisnutu među blokove starih zdanja četvrti El Madrid de Los Austrias pa skrenite prema zapadu. Uz Baziliku sv. Mihovila potražite uski prolaz koji preko Plaza de la Ville vodi ravno na tržnicu San Miguel. Nema sumnje, Sv. Mihovil pokazat će vam put koji kao i većina njih u Madridu završava za stolom. Mercado de San Miguel raj je za gurmane i ljubitelje finger fooda. Uz tapase, pršut, punjene masline, pržene zalogajčiće, poslastice ili čak filipinski San Miguel Pale Pilsen zaboravit ćete onu jutarnju kavu koju niste popili te nakon

01-02 Hrvatska teniska reprezentacija koja je lani osvojila Davis Cup The Croatian tennis team, last year's Davis Cup champions

P. Zimmer

d 18. do 24. studenoga u Madridu će prvi put u njegovoj stoljetnoj povijesti biti predstavljen novi format natjecanja finala Davis Cupa. Prema riječima Davida Haggertyja, predsjednika Međunarodne teniske federacije, ovaj će novi događaj biti pravi festival tenisa i zabave, još privlačniji igračima, navijačima, sponzorima i televizijskim kućama koje ga prenose. Ambicije ne skriva ni Gerard Piqué, koji u tome vidi mogućnost uzdizanja Davis Cupa u rang Svjetskoga nogometnog prvenstva, a Madrid, uz London, Pariz ili Melbourne, u novu prijestolnicu tenisa koja će uz brojne postojeće sadržaje privući još više posjetitelja iz cijelog svijeta. Podizanje Davis Cupa u rang Grand Slam turnira ili nogometnog mundijala svjedoči o dalekovidnu promišljanju novih mogućnosti brendiranja destinacije za koju bi se lakonski moglo reći da joj ne treba nikakav novi zaštitni znak. Jer, nesumnjivo, kraljevski grad u srcu Pirenejskog poluotoka već je dugo poznat po tome da od jutra do noći jamči nezaboravan doživljaj. Pa, prošećimo zajedno... Svaki grad ima svoj jutarnji miris, a Madrid još i tišinu. Zbunjujuću tišinu, za neupućene koji urane oko osam, očekujući kako će ih metež ulice podsjetiti da kasne. Želite li uživati u jutarnjem espressu pod arkadama Plaze Mayor, u srcu staroga Madrida, naoružajte se strpljenjem barem za još dva sata. Možda

104 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

ukusne zakuske grabiti dalje madridskim četvrtima. Calle Mayor, u smjeru istoka, vodi na trg Puerta del Sol, gdje se nalazi zaštitni znak Madrida, poznata skulptura medvjeda pod krošnjom planike, El Oso y el Madroño. Još nekoliko minuta hoda dalje i već ste u srcu moje omiljene četvrti, Barrio de las Letras. Ime joj u sjećanje priziva Siglo de Oro, zlatno doba španjolske književnosti. Na pročeljima starih kuća, poredanih uzduž skučenih kala, stoje ploče koje upućuju na to da su u njima nekada živjeli Cervantes, Quevedo, Góngora i Lope De Vega. Odolijevajući iskušenju da ne završim baš u svakom tapas baru ili pivnici, hitam na još jedan kraći predah na najljepšemu madridskome trgu, Plaza de Santa Ana. Premda bi se na njemu punim plućima trebao udisati dah habsburškoga 17. stoljeća, impresivno secesijsko pročelje hotela Reina Victoria prije podsjeća na Velikog Gatsbyja nego na Don Quijotea. Barrio de las Letras obiluje muzejima i kazalištima. Prolazeći madridskim četvrtima, često mi se čini da Madrid nije jedan grad nego mnogo njih. Otuda i izraz Los Madriles koji upućuje na to da svaki barrio priča neku svoju priču. Ni navigacija vremeplova ne slijedi postupan trag. Presijeca razdoblja kao bulevari stare, krivudave ulice. Prije nego što zaplovim veličanstvenim

Postanite korisnik Premium Visa Gold kartice bez upisnine i članarine* • najveći paket osiguranja • najnaprednije beskontaktno plaćanje • najveći program nagrađivanja za vašu vjernost

www.pbz.hr

www.pbzcard-premium.hr

* Pogodnost vrijedi za prvu godinu korištenja Premium Visa Gold kartice, za sve pristupnice primljene od 3.7. do 31.12.2019. Ovaj oglas je informativnog karaktera i ne predstavlja obvezujuću ponudu za PBZ i PBZ Card.

Bank o f CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 105

01 Mercado San Miguel The San Miguel Market 02 Restoran i Sky Bar Ginkgo Ginkgo Restaurant & Sky Bar

Madridom Karla lll. Burbonskoga, osvježit ću se hladnom juhom salmorejo u nekoj ugodnoj madridskoj taverni. Zadivljuje autentičnost uređenja interijera restorana, barova, zalogajnica, pivnica. Gotovo endemski za cijelu Španjolsku, iz razigranog eklekticizma proizašao je originalan stil, a boja gazpacha ili španjolske zastave sveprisutna je, od pročelja do interijera i namještaja. Poznatu crveno-žutu rojigualdu među dvanaest je ponuđenih verzija zastava 1785. izabrao upravo spomenuti kralj Karlo lll. veliki reformator i graditelj koji je Madridu udario temelje suvremenosti zbog brojnih urbanističkih intervencija, infrastrukturnih zahvata i obilja javnih građevina, a ovaj Burbonac ponio je s vremenom i laskavu titulu najboljega gradonačelnika Madrida. Kao prvi burbonski stanar tada nove i monumentalne kraljevske palače na mjestu nekadašnjega maurskog Alcázara, zaslužan je za danas najpoznatije madridske urbane biljege: slavoluk Puerta de Alcalá, Kraljevski botanički vrt, Kraljevski opservatorij, brojne fontane i, povrh svega, nezaobilazni muzej Prado.

No slika Madrida koja me se najviše dojmila jest avenija Gran Vía. Krajem 19. stoljeća počelo se razmišljati o boljoj protočnosti prometa kroz središte te povezivanju gradske periferije koja je nezaustavljivo rasla. Rezultat tih nastojanja jedan je od najslikovitijih bulevara kojima sam ikada kročio. Neizrecivo fotografsko nadahnuće, vrijedno svakog divljenja. Da bi se u rasteru poluprohodnih uličica povukla ravna crta, valjalo je porušiti više od 300 objekata i razrušiti pedesetak ulica. Koncem dvadesetih godina prošloga stoljeća Gran Vía zablistala je u punom sjaju. Goleme zgrade ukrašenih pročelja nadvile su se nad ulicu koja je raspolovila grad. Bogati magnati podizali su vlastite hramove raskoši, šireći rojalistički štih na čitav bulevar. Zbog impresivnih secesijskih pročelja, kazališta, kino dvorana, restorana, barova i bogatoga noćnog života, Gran Vía s pravom nosi naziv madridski Broadway. Kupovati se može doslovno svugdje po gradu, no najbolje su četvrti za shopping Barrio de Salamanca, čija je Zlatna milja zapravo zona ekskluzivnih trgovina najpoznatijih modnih brendova, Barrio Malasaña i Chueca. Kako je iberska metropola zapravo mlada, antičkih hramova baš i nema, no zato onih posvećenih sportu uistinu ne nedostaje. Najveći od njih, stadion madridskoga kraljevskog kluba Santiago Bernabéu i njegov muzej u četvrti Chamartín, svakako treba posjetiti. U Madridu je 2019. godina vrhunskih sportskih događanja. Uz finale kupa europskih prvaka koje je početkom lipnja odigrano na stadionu Estadio Metropolitano, grad će ove jeseni na stadionu Caja Mágica ugostiti i 18 nacionalnih reprezentacija finalista Davis Cupa, među njima i Hrvatsku, aktualnu nositeljicu naslova prvaka. Još je jedan hram u Madridu izvan svake kategorije. Riječ je o egipatskome Debodu iz 2. stoljeća prije Krista, koji je Egipat 1968. darovao Španjolskoj u sklopu UNESCO-ova projekta zaštite povijesne baštine u vrijeme izgradnje Asuanske brane. Danas je on podignut u Zapadnome parku (Parque del Oeste) te je, uz katedralu Almudena i kraljevsku palaču, jedna od najpopularnijih promatračnica zalaska sunca u gradu. A čim sunce zađe, oživi onaj Madrid sklon svakom užitku. Podneblje je ovdje izrodilo općepoznati životni stil. Središnji dnevnik počinje u 21 sat, glavni večernji program

prikazuje se od 22 sata do ponoći, a noćni život slijedi nakon toga. Vrijeme za večere, koje su ovdje pravi spektakl okusa i dobroga raspoloženja, za naše je pojmove kasno, no zadivljuje notorna vitkost unatoč sladokusnim porivima. Poseban je doživljaj započeti večer još u topli sumrak, u jednome od poznatih madridskih sky barova. Izabrao sam Ginkgo Sky Bar, restoran na vrhu hotela VP Plaza España Design, s prekrasnom terasom koja gleda na grad. Grupacija VP Hotels službeni je sponzor finala Davis Cupa 2019./2020., mjesto raznih događanja vezanih uz natjecanje kao i boravište tenisača i njihovih timova. Posebnost menija zanimljiva je fuzija mediteranske i azijske kuhinje. Uživao sam u fine dining sljedovima, od vijetnamske salate s mangom, oraščićima i kraljevskim kozicama, preko švoja u tempuri s tajlandskim bosiljkom i limunskom travom do neobičnoga čokoladnog kolača sa stout pivom i svježim sirom. Sve je to nadopunjeno vrhunskim lokalnim vinima po kojima je regija Comunidad de Madrid nadaleko poznata. Ovisno o sklonostima, izbor za večer može biti i tradicionalniji, primjerice flamenco u najpoznatijem i najstarijem tablau, Corral de la Morería, koji nosi i Michelinovu preporuku. Možete i u poznatoj imigrantskoj četvrti Barrio Lavapiés uživati u šarolikom bogatstvu svjetske kuhinje. Tko je nakon večere za nezaboravan noćni provod, na savršenome je mjestu. U metropoli je svaki dan živo do sitnih sati. Kao prijestolnica carstva u kojemu sunce nikada ne zalazi, Madrid je izniknuo na

106 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 107

O. Llorente, dreammadrid

potpuno neobičnu mjestu: na laporastoj visoravni Meseta Central, podalje od puteva kojima je pritjecalo bogatstvo iz Novoga svijeta, što se pretovarivalo po atlantskim dokovima. Filip ll. Habsburški, sin španjolskoga kralja i cara Svetoga Rimskog Carstva Karla V., koji je za svojega vijeka bio vladar s najviše nekretnina po čitavome svijetu, 1561. preselio je prijestolnicu iz Toleda na mjesto nekadašnje maurske medine uz rijeku Manzanares. Svu je moć iberskoga kraljevstva, a moglo bi se reći i tadašnje polovice relevantnog svijeta, centralizirao u tišini i samoći svojega dvora koji je dao izgraditi na rubu gorja Sierra de Guadarrame. El Escorial je mješavina samostana, kraljevske palače i vojarne, smješten pedesetak kilometara sjeverozapadno od Madrida. Hodajući beskonačnim hodnicima, neprestano razmišljam o njegovu utemeljitelju, pokušavajući se preslikati u osvit Novoga doba. Bio je skrušen i ponizan no nepovjerljiv, predan čitalac i pokrovitelj umjetnosti, ali gorljiv katolik koji je gotovo u izolaciji od vanjskoga svijeta vladao upravo tim svijetom. Fasciniraju i opčinjavaju murali i platna izvojevanih bitaka protiv Osmanlija, protestanata i moriska. Ako se koja žena i pojavi na platnu ili fresci, najčešće je to Bogorodica. Sve je mirno i nečujno. Blistava kupola Bazilike sv. Lovre niz kanelirane pilastre spušta na prolaznike svoju samostansku tišinu. No pogrešno bi bilo o Madridu steći sliku po nijemim uznesenjima. Postoji i ona

druga vrsta, uz fanfare i sirene, navijačke šalove, himne, kastanjete, potpetice i vatromet. U tišini kraljevskoga samostana ili navijačkoj buci, u miru popodnevne sieste ili vrevi toplih noći, Madrid je podjednako veličanstven grad. Također, prevarili biste se i misleći da je Madrid metropola na suhoj, spaljenoj visoravni. Madrid je europski grad s najvećim brojem stabala i zelenih površina po stanovniku. Kraljevi su nekoć zbog lova voljeli šumu, ostavljajući u zalog svojim građanima gotovo netaknutu prirodu nadomak grada. Osim urbanih sadržaja kojima je

108 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

teško odoljeti, njegova okolica bogata je zanimljivostima koje vrijedi pogledati, okusiti i doživjeti. Šuma La Herrería s brežuljkom prozvanim Filipova stolica, nacionalni park Sierra de Guadarrama, golf tereni, razna ladanja i hacijende na kojima se mogu jahati magarci i kušati domaći proizvodi, vinarije i vinski podrumi, razne biciklističke i trekking staze i još mnogo toga. Izbora i izazova ne nedostaje. Dođete li u Madrid,  uživat ćete.

he format of the Davis Cup Finals is about to change for the first time in the tournament’s 119-year-old history, with the new format to be presented in Madrid between 18th and 24th November this year. According to David Haggerty, President of the International Tennis Federation, this new format will be a true festival of tennis and entertainment, even more appealing to players, fans, sponsors and television stations broadcasting it. Gerard Piqué doesn’t seem to be hiding his ambitions either. What he sees in this change of format is the chance to raise the Davis Cup tournament to the level of the football World Cup, and the chance to turn Madrid − along with London, Paris and Melbourne − into a new tennis capital of the world, which will, besides the many existing tourist attractions, attract additional visitors from all over the world. Raising the Davis Cup to the level of the Grand Slam tournaments or the World Cup in football testifies to thinking far-sightedly about the

rebranding options of a destination that needs no rebranding. Because this royal city in the heart of the Iberian Peninsula has long been known for offering a memorable experience day and night, there’s no question about it. So, let’s visit it together then. All cities have their own, distinctive morning scent, and what Madrid has on top of it is its silence. A silence which is confusing to the uninformed who rise as early as eight expecting to be reminded by the morning rush hour that they’re running late. If you’d like to enjoy a morning espresso under the arcades of Plaza Mayor in the heart of old Madrid, arm yourself with patience for at least two hours. Perhaps you’d be better off stretching your legs first, circling around it, before the morning rush hour starts. Follow the Cava de San Miguel pedestrian street, nestled amongst the blocks of old buildings of the El Madrid de Los Austrias neighbourhood, and then turn west. Near the Pontifical Basilica of St. Michael, look for a narrow passage that leads across the Plaza de la Ville right to the San Miguel Market. Needless to say, St. Michael will show you the way that’ll − like most of them in Madrid anyway − end at a table. The San Miguel Market is a paradise for gourmands and lovers of finger food. Thanks to tapas, prosciutto, stuffed olives, fried finger foods, delicacies or even the Filipino San Miguel Pale Pilsen, you’ll forget all about that morning coffee you wanted to have but didn’t, and after a tasty snack you’ll continue discovering the neighbourhoods of Madrid. To the east, Calle Mayor leads to the Puerta del Sol Square, where the symbol of Madrid is − the famous Statue of the Bear and the Strawberry Tree, El Oso y el Madroño. Only a few minutes away, you’ll find yourself at the heart of my favourite neighbourhood − Barrio de las Letras or the Literary Quarter. Its name recalls Siglo De Oro, the golden age of Spanish literature. Plaques on the facades of old houses, lined along narrow streets, indicate that Cervantes, Quevedo, Góngora and Lope De Vega once lived in them. Managing to resist the temptation to enter every tapas bar or pub, I’m taking another short break at the most beautiful square in Madrid, the Plaza de Santa Ana. Although it should exude an air of a Habsburgesque 17th century, the impressive Art Nouveau facade of Reina Victoria Hotel reminds of the Great Gatsby rather than of Don Quixote. The Literary

Quarter abounds in museums and theatres. Roaming around the neighbourhoods of Madrid, it often seems to me that Madrid isn’t one, but many cities. Hence the expression Los Madriles, suggesting that every barrio or neighbourhood has a story of its own to tell. Even the navigation system of an imaginary time machine wouldn’t follow seriatim. It would intersect periods as boulevards intersect old, winding streets. But before I start exploring the magnificent Madrid of Charles III of Spain, I’ve decided to have a cold and refreshing salmorejo soup in one of Madrid’s delightful taverns. The authenticity of the interior design of restaurants, bars, tapas bars and pubs is amazing. What resulted from their playful eclecticism is an original style, and this almost endemically across the whole of Spain, with the colours of gazpacho soup or the Spanish flag omnipresent, from facades to interiors and furniture. It was Charles III − King of Spain, a great reformer and builder who, thanks to countless urban interventions, infrastructure projects and many public buildings erected, laid the foundations for Madrid’s modernity − who selected the famous red and yellow Spanish flag, the rojigualda, from amongst the twelve versions of the flag offered in 1785. The most famous of Madrid’s urban landmarks are credited to him, the first tenant of the then new and monumental royal palace erected at the site of the former Royal Alcázar of the Moors: the Puerta de Alcalá triumphal arch, the Royal Botanical Garden, the Royal Observatory, numerous fountains and, above all, the must-see Prado National Museum. But the picture of Madrid that impressed me most was Gran Vía or the Great Way Avenue. At the end of the 19th century, city officials started thinking about improving the flow of traffic through the city centre and about connecting the city’s periphery that started to grow unstoppably. Their efforts resulted in Gran Vía, one of the most picturesque boulevards that I’ve ever walked along. Inexpressible photographic inspiration that deserves admiration. To be able to draw a straight line across semipassable streets in the city layout, more than 300 buildings and some 50 streets had to be demolished. And so at the end of the 1920s, Gran Vía emerged taking central stage. Huge buildings with decorated facades started leaning over the street that halved the city. Rich magnates raised

01-02 Svakodnevne izvedbe flamenca u najstarijem madridskom tablau Corral de la Morería Daily flamenco shows at Corral de la Morería, Madrid’s oldest flamenco tablao 03

Spomen ploča ispred kuće u kojoj je živio Miguel Cervantes A memorial plaque on the house that Miguel Cervantes lived in

their very own temples of luxury, spreading royalist features across the entire avenue. Thanks to its impressive Art Nouveau facades, theatres, cinemas, restaurants, bars and a brilliant nightlife, Gran Vía is rightly called the Broadway of Madrid. You can go shopping literally anywhere in the city, but the best neighbourhoods for shopping are the neighbourhoods of Barrio de Salamanca − with its Golden Mile, a zone of exclusive shops of the most famous fashion brands − Barrio Malasaña and Chueca. Given the fact that the Iberian metropolis is actually young, it’s got no ancient temples. However, there’s no shortage of temples dedicated to sports. The largest of them, the Santiago Bérnabeu Stadium, the home stadium of Real Madrid, and its museum in the Chamartín neighbourhood are well worth a visit. 2019 in Madrid is packed with top sports events. In addition to the UEFA Champions League Final, which was played

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 109

Kraljevsko kazalište Karla III. u izvornom sjaju 18. stoljeća s kostimiranim glumcem − vodičem The original interior splendour of the Royal Theatre of Carlos III from the 18th century with a costumed actor-guide

at the Metropolitano Stadium in early June, this autumn Madrid’s La Caja Mágica or the Magic Box Stadium is hosting 18 national tennis teams, Davis Cup finalists, including Croatia, the current champion. Madrid is home to another matchless temple − the Egyptian Temple of Debod dating back to the 2nd century BC, which was donated to Spain by Egypt in 1968 as part of UNESCO’s Conservation of Cultural Sites Emergency Action at the time of the construction of the Aswan High Dam. The temple was rebuilt in Parque del Oeste, the Western Park, and is − besides the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace − one of the most popular spots for watching the sunset in the city. And as soon as the sun sets, Madrid’s nightlife roars into life. The climate has birthed a widely known lifestyle here. The evening news programme starts at 9 pm, prime time TV programmes are broadcast from 10 pm to midnight, and it’s only after midnight that nightlife begins. It’s time for dinner, which is a real feast of flavours and good mood. The Spanish have their dinner really late, although they’re surprisingly and notoriously slim despite their late-night gourmet feasts. Starting your night out at dusk on a warm evening at one of Madrid’s famous sky bars is a special experience. I’ve gone to the Ginkgo Restaurant & Sky Bar, a restaurant on the top floor of the VP Plaza España Design Hotel with a

110 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

beautiful terrace overlooking the city. The VP Hoteles Group is the official sponsor of the 2019 and 2020 Davis Cup Finals, meaning that all tournament-related events will be held there, and that all the tennis players and their teams will be staying there. Fusing the Mediterranean with Asian cuisine is what makes the hotel’s restaurant menu special. I thoroughly enjoyed the courses in this fine dining restaurant, from Vietnamese mango salad with nuts and shrimp, through tempura Dover sole fish with Thai basil and lemongrass, to an unusual stout beer and fresh cheese chocolate cake. All is complemented by top-quality local wines, which Comunidad de Madrid or the autonomous Community of Madrid is very famous for. Your choice of evening entertainment may, of course, be more traditional, depending on personal preference, in which case you may opt for an evening of flamenco at the most famous and oldest flamenco tablao and Michelin-recommended restaurant, Corral de la Morería. Another option is visiting the vibrant multicultural neighbourhood of Lavapiés, where you can enjoy the colourful variety and tastes of world cuisine. If an unforgettable night out is what you’re looking for after dinner, Madrid is the place to be. The city lives into the small hours of the morning. Madrid, the capital of an empire in which the sun never sets, sprouted in a very strange spot − on the marly Meseta Central plateau, far from the roads which had wealth accruing from the New World, wealth unloaded at docks along the Atlantic coast. Philip II of Spain, the son of the Holy Roman Emperor and King of the Spanish kingdoms, Charles V − who, as a ruler, owned the most real estate in the world at

the time − moved the capital from Toledo to the site of a former Moorish medina along the Manzanares River. He centralised all the power of the Iberian kingdom − which was, without exaggeration, half of what was the relevant world at the time − in the silence and solitude of his court which he had built on the edge of the Guadarrama Mountains. El Escorial blends a monastery, the royal palace and barracks, some fifty kilometres northwest of Madrid. Walking along its infinitely long corridors, I can’t stop thinking about its founder, trying to picture what the dawn of the New Age looked like. He was a modest and humble yet distrustful man, a devoted reader and a patron of art, but also a zealous Catholic who ruled the world almost in isolation from it. The murals and canvases depicting the battles won against the Ottomans, Protestants and the Moors are truly fascinating and spellbinding. If a canvas or fresco does have a depiction of a woman, it’s most often the Blessed Virgin Mary. All is silent and serene. Along its pilasters, the bright dome of the Basilica of St. Lorenzo casts its monastic silence over passers-by. But, portraying Madrid solely based on its silent sublime symbols would be a mistake. There’s another picture of Madrid, one with fanfares and sirens, football fan scarves and anthems, castanets, flamenco heels and fireworks. For, whether in the silence of the Royal Monastery or surrounded by fans making a racket, whether in the peace and quiet of an afternoon siesta or during warm, lively nights, Madrid is a magnificent city. You’d also be very wrong to think that Madrid is a city on a dry, desolate plateau. Madrid is a European city with the largest number of trees and amount of green space per capita. Because of their love of hunting, kings once loved forests, and so nature near the city has remained almost untouched, which is a royal legacy of sorts. Apart from city-related musts that you’ll find difficult to resist, Madrid’s surroundings abound in interesting things that are worth visiting, tasting and experiencing. The La Herrería forest with the Seat of Philip II carved into a rock on top of a hill, the Sierra de Guadarrama National Park, golf courses, countless country houses and haciendas where you can try riding a donkey and sample local homemade products, wineries and wine cellars, various bike and trekking trails, and much, much more. Choices and challenges truly abound. You’re bound to have a great time in Madrid. 

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 111

STARI ZANATI OLD CRAFTSMANSHIP

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ Šime Lugarov

MORSKI VUK I LULA A SAILOR AND HIS PIPE

Samostojeće lule Poker Poker, freestanding pipes

112 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

01 Lula Free Diplomat od pjeskarena bicolor abonosa Free Diplomat, a twocolour morta pipe with a sandblast finish 02 Free Horn, lula s usnikom uzorka dima od poliranoga crnog abonosa Free Horn, a black morta pipe with a glossy finish and a smoke-colour stem

Posjetili smo starog majstora čiji se hobi danas smatra rijetkošću. Davorin Denović ručno izrađuje lule, svaka je jedinstvena i u svaku unosi nešto novo. Četiri je puta izlagao svoje lule na Chicago Pipe Showu, najvećem sajmu lulaštva na svijetu. We visited an old master whose hobby is today considered to be a rarity. Davorin Denović has been making pipes by hand, each is unique and highly distinctive. He’s exhibited his pipes four times at the world’s biggest pipe show − the Chicago Pipe Show.

ad se spomene lula, jedna od najčešćih asocijacija koje se javljaju zasigurno je i slika starih pomorskih kapetana te neizostavna brada i lula. Tako je nekako započela i ljubav prema pušenju lule Davorina Denovića, koji je kao mladić prije četrdesetak godina u Kostreni, majčinu rodnome mjestu, promatrao i divio se poznatim kostrenskim kapetanima kojima je zaštitni znak bila lula. Ljubav prema lulama prije dvadeset mu je godina donijela poznanstvo s čovjekom iz 02

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 113

Prilikom izrade lule pazi se na svaki detalj In pipe making, the tiniest detail is paid attention to

Opatije koji je izrađivao lule te mu poklonio ručno izrađenu lulu posebno za njega. Nakon tog susreta Davorin, po struci strojarski inženjer, počeo je iz hobija izrađivati vrhunske vlastite lule. I tako već dvadeset godina. Prve lule izrađuje od vrijesa, grmolike biljke koja raste na Mediteranu, najčešće na kamenim, vrlo vjetrovitim terenima. Zbog neravnog i nestabilnog terena vrijes pušta korijenje u obliku kugle koja se u promjeru može raširiti i do 60 centimetara. Vrijes u obilju raste na našim otocima te ga Davorin sam sakuplja, reže na komade, kuha da se smola odvoji od eteričnog ulja te potom tri godine suši kako drvo kod obrade ne bi popucalo.

114 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Godine 2007. s prijateljem i poslovnim partnerom, stolarom Darkom Franjićem počinje izrađivati lule od morte, odnosno abonosa, hrastova drva koje je nekoliko tisuća godina ležalo u mulju rijeka mijenjajući svoja svojstva. Pod utjecajem minerala u vodi drvo počinje mijenjati boju u tamnosmeđu i crnu, a tisućljetnim ispiranjem nestaju svi tragovi tanina, smola i sličnih sastojaka, što tijekom pušenja daje posve neutralan okus duhana. Postotak minerala vrlo je visok, čak 12 posto, zbog čega je drvo posebno otporno na gorenje. Zbog svih procesa abonos poprima sasvim novu kvalitetu i idealan je materijal za izradu lule. U Hrvatskoj se abonos

nalazi u Savi i njenim pritocima. Vađenje abonosa jest složeno; mulj se mora otkopati, nakon čega ronioci specijalizirani za rad u mutnim vodama označavaju lokaciju stabla koje se vadi zračnim padobranima i dizalicama. Mora se brzo preraditi jer je puno vode, a sušenje radi zaštite od pucanja u obradi traje sedam do deset godina. Manje od jedan posto izvađenog debla abonosa pogodno je za izradu lule jer komad drveta mora biti gotovo savršen, bez pukotina i mekih godova. Prije izrade svaki se komad drveta mikroskopski provjerava je li pogodan za izradu lule. Tada se radi gruba obrada, bušenje rupa, ručna obrada i poliranje ili pjeskarenje. Abonos je drvo velike tvrdo-

Free Light Bent, lula od pjeskarenog crnog abonosa, mjedi i umjetne bjelokosti Free Light Bent, a black morta, brass and artificial ivory pipe with a sandblast finish

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 115

će te Davorin u izradi lula koristi alate za obradu metala. Za jednu lulu potrebno je osam do 10 sati rada, a Davorin godišnje izradi 80 do 100 lula. Svoje radove potpisuje glagoljičnim slovom D utiskivanjem vrućeg žiga te tako simbolički spaja stari materijal (abonos) s najstarijim pismom slavenskih naroda. Također, na lule najviše kvalitete stavlja i simbol zvijezde, i to one koje se nalazi u  grbu Grada Zagreba.

hen talking about pipes, one of the most common images that’s very likely to occur in your mind is the image of an old bearded sailor and a pipe in his mouth. This is pretty much the way that Davorin Denović’s passion for pipe-smoking got ignited. Some forty years ago, as a young man in Kostrena, his mother’s birthplace, he’d be watching and admiring Kostrena’s famous ship captains whose trademark was, of course − the pipe. Some twenty years ago, thanks to his love of pipes, he met a man from Opatija who made pipes and who gifted him with a handmade pipe specially made for him. It was after this encounter that Davorin, a mechanical engineer by profession, started making his very own, top-quality pipes as a hobby. And he’s been making them ever since. He made his first pipes from briar, a Mediterranean shrub growing mostly on rocky and very windy terrains. Because it grows on uneven and unstable surfaces, its roots grow in the shape of balls that can reach up to 60 centimetres in diameter. Briar grows abundantly on Croatia’s islands, and Davorin collects it by himself, cuts it to pieces, cooks it to separate its resin from its essential oil, and then dries it for three years so that the wood wouldn’t crack during processing. In 2007, together with his friend and business partner, carpenter Darko Franjić, he started making pipes from bog-oak, also known as abonos and morta, logs of oak that had been buried in peat bogs and muddy waters for thousands of years, which has changed the wood’s properties. Under the influence of peat and water minerals, the wood also changes its colour into dark browns and blacks. Moreover, because the wood’s been washed for thousands of years, traces of tannins, resins

and similar substances are deposited on the wood, all of which gives pipe tobacco a completely neutral taste when smoked. The percentage of the minerals present in the wood is very high − as high as 12 percent − which is what makes this wood be flame resistant. Thanks to all these processes, bog-oak has a new quality because of which it’s an ideal material for pipe making. In Croatia, bog-oak is found in the Sava River and its tributaries. Bog-oak excavation is complex. The mud must first be dug up, after which professional divers specialising in diving in muddy waters mark the location of a log which is then extracted with the help of extraction balloons and cranes. It has to be processed quickly because it contains a lot of water, with the desiccation process to protect it from cracking during further processing lasting up to ten years. Ultimately, however, less than one percent of an extracted log of bog-oak is suitable for the making of pipes, given that the piece of bog-oak must be almost perfect, that is, without any cracks and soft growth rings. Before processing, all pieces of bog-oak are checked microscopically to make sure that they’re suitable for the making of pipes. This is followed by rough processing, the drilling of holes, manual processing and finally polishing or sandblasting. Bog-oak is a wood of great hardness, and so the tools that Davorin has to use on bog-oak are tools for metal processing. One pipe requires eight to ten hours of work, and Davorin makes 80 to 100 pipes a year.

He signs his pieces with his initial D in the Glagolitic script using a hot stamp. This symbolically unifies bog-oak as an old material with the oldest script of the Slavic peoples. His highest quality pipes have the symbol of the star as well, the one found in the coat of arms of the City of Zagreb. 

01 Svaka lula potpisuje se koristeći slovo D iz starog slavenskog pisma glagoljice, a na lule najviše kvalitete stavlja se i simbol zvijezde Each pipe is signed with the letter D from the old Glagolitic script, and the highest quality pipes also have a star symbol imprinted onto them 02 Preciznost u izradi presudna je za kvalitetu svake lule Precision in craftsmanship is crucial to the quality of each pipe

116 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 117

AN EXPERIENCE AWAITS IN OVER 1,000 LOUNGES WORLDWIDE. With Gold status you can enjoy more lounges than any other alliance and share the experience with a guest. Discover more benefits at staralliance.com/recognition

118 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

UKRATKO O... HRVATSKOJ U EUROPSKIM INSTITUCIJAMA IN BRIEF ABOUT... CROATIA IN EUROPEAN INSTITUTIONS

UOČI HRVATSKOG PREDSJEDANJA ON THE EVE OF CROATIA’S PRESIDENCY Piše/By _ Ksenija Žlof Fotografije/Photos _ Saša Ćetković

DANIELA PETRIČEVIĆ GOLOJUH, O VIJEĆU EUROPE Bivša hrvatska ministrica vanjskih i europskih poslova te potpredsjednica Vlade Republike Hrvatske Marija Pejčinović Burić nedavno je imenovana na prestižnu funkciju tajnice Vijeća Europe (VE). Prvi je put na čelo te ugledne organizacije izabrana osoba iz jugoistočne Europe i tek druga žena u povijesti. Zamolili smo glavnu tajnicu Ministarstva pravosuđa Republike Hrvatske Danielu Petričević Golojuh, koja je ujedno autorica knjige Hrvatska i Vijeće Europe; trnoviti put − Croatia and the Council of Europe; Per Aspera, da našim čitateljima približi osnovnu zadaću Vijeća Europe. − Riječ je o najstarijoj europskoj, međunarodnoj organizaciji osnovanoj 1949. godine u Londonu, kao rezultat težnje za osiguranjem europskog mira i zajedništva. Danas VE broji 47 država članica, a sjedište je u Strasbourgu. Hrvatska je primljena 1996. kao 40. članica. Značaj VE-a najkraće se može predstaviti činjenicom da nijedna država nije mogla postati članica EU-a a da prije toga nije postala članica VE-a. To jasno potvrđuje i opredijeljenost Hrvatske za jačanje demokratskih standarda, poštovanje ljudskih prava i vladavine prava. Upravo su te tri vrijednosti i glavna zadaća VE−a na kojima je utemeljena i suvremena Europa. Vijeće Europe zalaže se i za promicanje svijesti o europskome kulturnom identitetu, traženje rješenja za probleme s kojima se susreće europsko društvo, primjerice manjine, ksenofobija i rasizam, izbjeglice, zaštita okoliša, trgovina ljudima, te razvoj demokratske stabilnosti u Europi.  Koja je najveća korist članstva u Vijeću Europe za Hrvatsku? − VE odigralo je vrlo važnu ulogu u realizaciji europskog sna u početnoj fazi hrvatske tranzicije i izgradnje društva po europskim načelima. Proces pristupanja bio je vrlo složen i trajao je nešto više od četiri godine. VE je svojevrsno čistilište od elemenata stranih demokratskom društvu te podrazumijeva tranziciju kroz koju moraju proći ne samo političke institucije nego i svijest ljudi. Ono osigurava visoke standarde zaštite ljudskih prava u svojim državama članicama ponajprije kroz mehanizme funkcioniranja Konvencije za zaštitu ljudskih prava i temeljnih sloboda kojom je ustanovljen Europski sud za ljudska prava. Strasbourg se tako name-

Daniela Petričević Golojuh CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 119

će kao krajnja pravosudna točka zaštite ljudskih prava.  Lani je Hrvatska predsjedala Odborom ministara VE-a i upravo je Marija Pejčinović Burić obnašala funkciju predsjedavajuće. Koji su prioriteti bili tada, a koji će biti u budućnosti? − Od ukupno 28 događanja ponajviše iz područja zaštite ljudskih prava među prioritete je stavljena borba protiv korupcije. Stoga je središnji skup bila konferencija ministara pravosuđa predvođena hrvatskim ministrom pravosuđa Draženom Bošnjakovićem. Tom prigodom Ministarstvo vanjskih i europskih poslova Republike Hrvatske objavilo je i posebno izdanje knjige Hrvatska i Vijeće Europe; trnoviti put, koja je dostupna i na stranicama ministarstva u elektronskom obliku. Novoizabrana glavna tajnica Vijeća Europe Marija Pejčinović Burić u svojem je prvom govoru u Strasbourgu poručila da će u svojemu mandatu poticati veći dijalog među zemljama članicama kako bi se ostvarili glavni ciljevi organizacije, mir i prosperitet Europe, te da će joj glavne zadaće biti postizanje jedinstva, rad s osjetljivim skupinama u društvu te jačanje uloge i položaja žene. TAMARA ĆAPETA, O PREDSJEDANJU VIJEĆEM EUROPSKE UNIJE Iako je još vrlo mlada članica, Hrvatska će u prvoj polovici 2020. preuzeti predsjedanje Vijećem Europske unije. O tome smo razgovarali s Tamarom Ćapetom, voditeljicom Katedre za europsko javno pravo na Pravnome fakultetu Sveučilišta

120 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

u Zagrebu te ujedno koordinatoricom Centra izvrsnosti Jean Monnet.  Na pragu smo predsjedanja Hrvatske Vijećem EU-a. Možete li našim čitateljima objasniti što to zapravo podrazumijeva? − U prvih šest mjeseci iduće godine Hrvatska će formirati dnevni red i voditi sastanke ministara u Vijeću Europske unije. U tom se tijelu okupljaju ministri iz postojećih vlada država članica, i to iz različitih resora nacionalnih vlada. Sastavi Vijeća mijenjaju se ovisno o pitanju o kojem se odlučuje. Ako se, primjerice, usvaja prijedlog neke direktive koja se odnosi na zaštitu okoliša, okupit će se ministri zaštite okoliša iz nacionalnih vlada i slično. Predsjedanje Vijećem EU-a ne znači i, kako se to ponekad čuje, predsjedanje Europskom unijom, već samo tom jednom, iako važnom institucijom Unije. Predsjedanje će Hrvatskoj omogućiti da utječe na prioritete i dnevni red sastanaka Vijeća.  Možete li nam ukratko objasniti institucionalnu strukturu EU−a? − Tri su glavne političke institucije koje sudjeluju u donošenju propisa u EU-u: Europska komisija, koja propise predlaže, te Europski parlament i Vijeće EU-a, koji propise usvajaju. U svibnju su se održali izbori za novi saziv Europskog parlamenta. U to je tijelo Hrvatska birala 12 zastupnika, s time da je dvanaesti za sada na čekanju s početkom svojeg mandata, koji će započeti u trenutku ostvarenja Brexita. Predsjednika Komisije predlaže Europsko vijeće, institucija različita od Vijeća ministara, sastavljena od šefova država ili vlada država članica, koja, iako nema zakonodavnu ulogu, ima važan politički utjecaj.  Znači li to da svaka institucija ima svojeg predsjednika? − Tako je, svaka institucija ima svojeg predsjednika. Postoji predsjednik Komisije, predsjednik Europskog parlamenta, predsjedavajuća država Vijećem EU-a te predsjednik Europskog vijeća. Ne postoji, dakle, predsjednik EU-a. Hrvatska u siječnju 2020. preuzima predsjedanje Vijećem EU-a. Pripreme za predsjedanje odvijaju se u Hrvatskoj već dulje vrijeme. Svaka je država uvijek u dogovoru s još dvije države koje predsjedaju prije ili nakon nje i koje zajedno čine tzv. trojku. Tako Hrvatska svoje predsjedanje usklađuje s Rumunjskom i Finskom koje predsjedaju

prije nje, te će osim predlaganja vlastitih prioriteta također nastaviti provoditi politike koje su kao prioritetne započele njezine prethodnice.  Ima li Hrvatska svoje predstavnike u svim tim institucijama? − Naravno. Neki su predstavnici samim time što su članovi nacionalnih vlada, poput predstavnika u Vijeću EU-a, ili su pak premijeri ili predsjednici država, kad se okupljaju u Europskome vijeću. U druga se tijela, pak, predstavnici biraju na europskoj razini. Takva je situacija u Komisiji, Europskom parlamentu te na Europskom sudu. Sud, koji se sastoji od dvije sudske instance − Općeg suda i Europskog suda, kontrolira provode li opisane političke institucije vladavinu prava te osigurava ujednačenost europskoga pravnog poretka. I u toj su instituciji suci iz Hrvatske koji, poput svakog suca, moraju biti neovisni od svojih država i suditi  nepristrano. DANIELA PETRIČEVIĆ GOLOJUH, ABOUT THE COUNCIL OF EUROPE The now former Minister of Foreign and European Affairs of the Republic of Croatia, and Deputy Prime Minister, Marija Pejčinović Burić, has recently been elected as Secretary General of the Council of Europe (CoE). Ms Pejčinović Burić is the first person from South East Europe and the second woman in the history of the CoE to have been appointed as Secretary General. We’ve asked the Secretary General of the Ministry of Justice of the Republic of Croatia, and the author of the book Hrvatska i Vijeće Europe: trnoviti put / Croatia and the Council of Europe: Per Aspera, Daniela Petričević Golojuh, to explain the main tasks of the CoE. − The CoE is the oldest European, international organisation founded in 1949 in London as a result of the aspiration to secure peace and a sense of unity in Europe. Today, the CoE has 47 member states, and is headquartered in Strasbourg. Croatia became a member state in 1996 as the CoE’s 40th member. The simplest way to describe the importance of the CoE is via the fact that all countries had to first become members of the CoE before they could become members of the EU. This is clearly confirmed by Croatia’s commitment to strengthening democratic standards, respect for human rights and the rule of law. The main tasks of the CoE are these three

values which modern Europe is founded on. The CoE is also committed to promoting awareness of a common European cultural identity, seeking solutions to the problems that European society is faced with, such as minority, xenophobia and racism, refugee, environmental protection and human trafficking issues, and the development of democratic stability in Europe.  What’s the greatest benefit of membership of the Council of Europe for Croatia? − The CoE played a very important role in realising Croatia’s European dream in the initial stage of Croatia’s transition and social development based on European principles. Croatia’s EU accession process was very complex and lasted for over four years. The CoE is a cleanser of sorts removing elements from a society that are foreign to democracies, and implies a transition of not only political institutions, but also people’s awareness. It ensures high standards of human rights protection in its member states, first and foremost through the mechanisms of the Convention for the Protection of Human Rights and Fundamental Freedoms, pursuant to which the European Court of Human Rights was established. Accordingly, the court in Strasbourg is the supreme court of human rights protection.  Croatia chaired the Committee of Ministers of the CoE last year, with Marija Pejčinović Burić as chairperson. What were the priorities then, and what will be the priorities in the future? − Out of the committee’s 28 meetings mostly on human rights protection, the fight against corruption has been given priority. Accordingly, a conference of ministers of justice headed by Croatia’s Minister of Justice, Dražen Bošnjaković, was last year’s central meeting. On this occasion, the Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs of the Republic of Croatia published a special edition of the book Croatia and the Council of Europe: Per Aspera, which is also available on the website of the ministry in electronic format. In her first address delivered in Strasbourg, the newly elected Secretary General of the CoE, Marija Pejčinović Burić, said that, in her mandate, she would be focusing on encouraging greater dialogue between the member states with a view to achieving the main goals of the organisation, peace and prosperity of Europe, and that

her main tasks would be achieving unity, working with vulnerable social groups, and strengthening the role and position of women. TAMARA ĆAPETA, ABOUT THE PRESIDENCY OF THE COUNCIL OF THE EU Although Croatia hasn’t been a member of the EU for a long time, in the first half of 2020 Croatia will take over the Presidency of the Council of the European Union. We talked about this with Tamara Ćapeta, Head of the Department of European Public Law at the Faculty of Law of the University of Zagreb, and chair of the Jean Monnet Centre of Excellence.  Croatia’s about to take over the Presidency of the Council of the European

Union. Could you please explain to our readers what this actually means? − During the period of the first six months of next year, Croatia will be setting the agenda and presiding over ministerial meetings in the Council of the European Union. This body assembles ministers from current governments of member states, from the different ministry sectors of national governments. The council’s composition changes depending on the matters to be decided on. If, for instance, the council is to adopt a proposal on an environmental protection directive, ministers of environmental protection from national governments will convene, and so on. Presiding over the Council of the EU isn’t, as it is sometimes heard, presiding over the European Union, but only presiding over this

Tamara Ćapeta

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 121

one, yet very important institution of the EU. Croatia’s presidency will enable Croatia to influence the setting of priorities and agenda of the council’s meetings.  Could you briefly explain the institutional structure of the EU? − There are three major political institutions involved in adopting EU regulations: the European Commission, which draws up regulation proposals, the European Parliament and the Council of the European Union, which adopts regulations. Elections for the new European Parliament were held in May. Croatia elected 12 MPs to represent it in this body, although the commencement of the mandate of the 12th MP is currently on hold, pending the resolution of Brexit. The President of the

European Commission is proposed by the European Council, an institution which is different from the Council of the European Union and which comprises the heads of state or government of the EU member states. Although the European Council has no legislative role, its political influence is important.  Does that then mean that every institution has its own president? − That’s right, each institution has its own president. There’s the President of the European Commission, the President of the European Parliament, the Presidency of the Council of the European Union and the President of the European Council. Accordingly, there’s no president of the EU. In January 2020, Croatia is taking over the

Presidency of the Council of the European Union. Preparations for this have been ongoing for quite a while now. Member states holding the presidency work together closely in groups of three, called trios. Accordingly, Croatia has already been aligning its presidency with Romania which was and Finland which is presiding over the council before Croatia, meaning that it will be, besides proposing its own priorities, continuing to implement the policies that have been formulated as priorities by its predecessors.  Does Croatia have its representatives in all these institutions? − Of course. The very fact that they’re members of national governments makes some of them be representatives, such as in the Council of the European Union. Or the fact that they’re prime ministers or presidents of states, which makes them representatives in the European Council. However, as far as the other bodies are concerned, representatives are elected at European level. This is the case with the European Commission, the European Parliament and the Court of Justice of the European Union. The latter consists of two instances − the General Court and the Court of Justice − ensuring that EU law is interpreted and applied in the same way in every EU member state, and that member states and EU institutions abide by EU law. There are judges from Croatia in this institution, judges who, just like all judges, have to be independent of their states and judge impartially. 

SHOP TAX FREE IN CROATIA

Spend a minimum of 740.01 HRK and ask for your Tax Free Form TAX FREE ШОППИНГ В ХОРВАТИИ Совершите покупку на сумму от 740.01 кун и попросите Tax Free форму 在克罗地亚购物退税最低消费 740.01 克罗地亚库纳，并索取您的退税单 (Tax Free Form) 크로아티아에서 면세 쇼핑을 740.01 HRK 이상 사용 시 물품 판매 확인서를 받으실 수 있습니다

globalblue.com/join

Holding the keys of the home you love

“Bel Village” Zagreb, Mlinovi luxury villa for sale

Our properties don’t just give you a new home, they offer you a new lifestyle. Luxury residence with a beautiful view of the city for those who seek a home away from home.

Upper town exclusive apartment with unique blend of history, luxury, peace and comfort.

RE N T

Experience the Croatia’s most desired real estates. Contact us to begin your journey!

Since 2002. we are fully committed to providing the best service and experience to our clients. Whether you are looking to buy or rent, a house or apartment, we are here for you. With a large database of luxury properties we will find a home that fits your every need and make all of your real estate dreams come true.

How can we help you?

Beautifully decorated penthouse on the main square with an inspiring view of the old town.

Best offer of luxury real estate in Zagreb 15 highly professional and educated agents Ongoing cooperation with embassies and foreign representative offices in Croatia

www.eurovilla.hr

eurovilla@eurovilla.hr +385 _(1) 4815 111 123

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Gajeva 15, Zagreb

REPORT

ISKUSI HRVATSKU I PRIJAVI SE ZA LJETNU ŠKOLU 2020. 22. lipnja − 10. srpnja 2020.

EXPERIENCE CROATIA & JOIN THE 2020 SUMMER SCHOOL 22nd June − 10th July 2020 Zagrebačka škola ekonomije i managementa ima međunarodnu akreditaciju AACSB, čime se pridružila 5% najboljih poslovnih škola na svijetu s više od 150 međunarodnih partnerskih sveučilišta. ZŠEM-ov trotjedni program Međunarodne ljetne škole nudi niz dodiplomskih i diplomskih kolegija, a nastavu na engleskome održavaju priznati predavači i znanstvenici. Kolegiji nose 6 ECTS bodova ili 2 boda za američka sveučilišta. U Ljetnoj je školi 2019. sudjelovalo 100 studenata iz više od 20 država. Dolaze studenti iz Meksika, SAD-a, Singapura, Švicarske, Francuske, Australije, Maroka… Osim standardnoga akademskog programa, ZŠEM-ova Ljetna škola nudi različita kulturna i obrazovna iskustva kroz zabavna studijska putovanja. Studenti mogu odabrati do dva kolegija birajući između bihevioralne ekonomije, međunarodnog menadžmenta, design thinkinga, financijskog menadžmenta, programa CAPSTONE, Big Data i mnogih drugih. Studenti također mogu pohađati besplatan tečaj na kojemu se upoznaju s kulturom i poviješću Hrvatske. U cijenu školarine uključena je večera dobrodošlice, četverodnevni izlet u Zadar, gdje će studenti posjetiti uspješna poduzeća i jednu od najvećih tvornica tune u Hrvatskoj, posjet Plitvičkim jezerima, prema TripAdvisoru jednome od velikih svjetskih čuda prirode, cjelodnevni izlet brodom na Kornatske otoke, predavanja gostujućih predavača iz poslovne zajednice itd. − Hvala vam što ste mi pružili širu sliku. Ovaj program ljetne škole nadmašio je moja očekivanja. Ogroman trud koji ste uložili u ovaj program dao je iznimnu vrijednost mojem iskustvu − kaže Subhopriyo Das iz Indije.

124 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

I mnogi drugi studenti iz raznih krajeva svijeta rekli su da je to bilo jedno od najboljih iskustava u životu jer je sve bilo savršeno. Za više informacija o programu očitajte QR kod, posjetite www.zsem.hr ili nam pišite na summerschool@zsem.hr. The Zagreb School of Economics and Management (ZSEM) is an AACSB-accredited business school, one of the top 5% of business schools worldwide, with more than 150 international partner universities. ZSEM’s 3-week international Summer School programme offers a variety of bachelor- and master-level courses in English taught by renowned lecturers and researchers. All the courses are credited with 6 ECTS/3 US credits. ZSEM’s 2019 Summer School programme hosted 100 students from more than 20 different countries, such as Mexico, the USA, Singapore, Switzerland, France, Australia, Morocco, etc. Apart from its in-class academic programme, ZSEM’s Summer School offers a variety of cultural and educational experiences through fun field trips. Students can choose up to 2 courses from Behavioural

Economics, International Management, Design Thinking, Financial Management, CAPSTONE, Big Data, etc., and can also take an additional, free-entry course in Croatian Studies. The tuition fee includes a welcome dinner, a 4-day excursion to the coastal city of Zadar where students visit successful companies and one of the largest commercial tuna farms in Croatia, a visit to the Plitvice Lakes National Park, one of the great natural world wonders according to TripAdvisor, a full-day boat excursion to the Kornati Islands National Park, weekly lectures given by visiting speakers from the business community, etc. − Thank you for making me see the bigger picture. This summer school programme exceeded my expectations. The enormous effort you put into this programme added so much more value to my experience − said Subhopriyo Das, a student from India. Many students from different parts of the world said that this was one of the best experiences in their lives, and that everything was perfect. To find out more about the programme, scan the QR code, visit www.zsem.hr or contact us at summerschool@zsem.hr.

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 125

126 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 127

ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE

Zagreb

All You Need Is a Hat / Šešir i Assemblage All You Need Is a Hat / The Hat and Assemblage Pišu/By _

Andrea Klobučar i/and Jasmina Fučkan Fotografije/Photos _ Željko Koprolčec

na Gerrit Rietveld Akademie u Amsterdamu do sada izlagala na više od 150 izložbi diljem Europe, u Izraelu i SAD-u, ovom izložbom obilježava 25 godina od prošle samostalne autorske izložbe u istome muzeju. Izložba pod naslovom All You Need Is a Hat predstavlja različite ideje šešira kao klasičnoga, elegantnoga, provokativnoga, prije svega nosivoga modnog predmeta,

128 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

a prilazi mu kroz eksperimentalno poigravanje s konceptom spremnika ili fascinatora. Od filca, slame, platna, mreže, tila, čipke, kitničarskih traka − klasične ili hibridne forme, neizostavno vrsne kitničarske izvedbe, svaki je šešir drugačiji, pretvoren u samosvojni objekt − znakovitu ekstenziju tijela. Uklopljenost šešira u scenografske cjeline tekstilnih šivanih slika (assemblage)

Modeli/Models: Ivana Benko, Cristiana Rotolo Šminka/Make-up: Dino Bakša

Lice iza poznatog brenda STASHA HATS, Staša Čimbur, ove će jeseni otvoriti autorsku izložbu u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt koja traje od studenog 2019. do siječnja 2020. Staša Čimbur na našim je prostorima najpoznatija kao autorica šešira i modnih oglavlja velike dive hrvatske scene Josipe Lisac. Umjetnica koja je nakon studija na zagrebačkome Tekstilno-tehnološkom fakultetu i usavršavanja

Staša Čimbur, the name behind the famous STASHA HATS brand is having an exhibition mounted this autumn at the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb between November 2019 and January 2020. Staša Čimbur is best known in the region for her

designs of hats and fashion headgear worn by the great diva of Croatia’s music scene, Josipa Lisac. She’s exhibited her work in over 150 exhibitions across Europe, Israel and the United States since finishing her studies at the Faculty of Textile Technology in Zagreb and specialising at the Gerrit Rietveld Academy in Amsterdam. This exhibition is marking the 25th anniversary of her last solo exhibition at the same museum. The All You Need Is a Hat exhibition is presenting Čimbur’s different ideas for a hat − a fashion item which is classic, elegant, provocative and primarily wearable − approaching it by playing experimentally

Eva

A. Zelmanović

odražava prijelaz iz dvodimenzionalnog svijeta trake ili niti u trodimenzionalni doživljaj oblikovanog predmeta. Osim što će objediniti Stašinu osjetilnu fascinaciju taktilnim dražima tekstura tkanina, volumena i linearni shematizam modne ilustracije, izložba će predstaviti osobit pogled na erotizaciju mode i ljepote.

Moves like Jagger

Canapé

with the concept of container or fascinator. Made from felt, straw, fabric, mesh, tulle, lace or millinery ribbons and trims, of a classic or hybrid shape, and executed meticulously, each hat is different, transformed into an object in its own right, a singular extension of the body. Hats fitted into assemblages reflect the transition from a two-dimensional world of ribbons or threads to a three-dimensional experience of a shaped object. In addition to combining Staša’s sensory fascination with the tactile charms of the texture of fabrics, volume and the linear design of fashion illustration, the exhibition is also presenting a special view of the eroticisation of fashion and beauty.

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 129

ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Zagreb

Orašar kakvog do sada nismo vidjeli The Nutcracker as you’ve never seen it before Piše/By _ Maja Trstenjak Fotografije/Photos _ Ukrainian Classical Ballet

Koncertna dvorana Vatroslav Lisinski 15. prosinca bit će domaćin najpoznatije zimske bajke, Orašara, u izvedbi ukrajinske trupe Ukrainian Classical Ballet, čiji su umjetnici već poznati zagrebačkoj publici po izvedbama predstava Radio & Juliet, Quatro i baleta The Great Gatsby. Orašar u Lisinskom božićna je bajka ispričana baletnom koreografijom jednoga od najpoznatijih koreografa, baletnog majstora i laureata mnogobrojnih nagrada i međunarodnih priznanja − Valerija Petroviča Kovtuna. Tradicionalnoj Kovtunovoj koreografiji baletna je trupa Ukrainian Classical Ballet, čiji su solisti istaknuti ukrajinski umjetnici i dobitnici brojnih baletnih nagrada i priznanja, dala moderniji izgled pa će gledatelji u priči o djevojčici Marie koja ispod bora pronalazi nesvakidašnji dar, drvenog orašara kojim se razbijaju orasi te s njime proživi čudesne dogodovštine u svijetu mašte, uz glazbu Čajkovskoga moći doživjeti svijet potpuno različit od našega. Baletna trupa Ukrainian Classical Ballet u svojem umjetničkom izražavanju želi očuvati tradiciju klasičnog baleta, dok u pokretima spremno prihvaća elemente moderne koreografije. Ova božićna bajka u Lisinskom, obogaćena vrhunskim umjetničkim postavom i impresivnom produkcijom, zasigurno će vam pružiti nezaboravan doživljaj u doba adventa.

130 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

On 15th December, the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall is hosting the most famous winter fairy tale, The Nutcracker, performed by the Ukrainian Classical Ballet troupe, whose dancers the Zagreb audience is already familiar with thanks to their ballet performances of Radio & Juliet, Quatro and The Great Gatsby. The Nutcracker in Lisinski is a Christmas fairy tale told through the ballet choreography of one of the most famous choreographers, a ballet master, and recipient of many awards and international accolades − Valery Petrovich Kovtun. The Ukrainian Classical Ballet troupe − whose soloists are distinguished Ukrainian dancers and winners of many ballet awards and accolades − have given Petrovich Kovtun’s traditional choreography a modern look. Accordingly, in the story about a little girl called Marie who finds an unusual gift under the Christmas tree, a wooden nutcracker whom she goes on wondrous adventures with in a world of imagination, audiences are, accompanied by Tchaikovsky, given the chance to experience a world completely different from ours. The Ukrainian Classical Ballet troupe seeks to preserve the tradition of classical ballet in their artistic expression while readily embracing elements of modern choreography in their movements. This impressively produced Christmas fairy tale in Lisinski promises to be an unforgettable experience during the festive season.

Orašar u Lisinskom božićna je bajka ispričana baletnom koreografijom baletnog majstora i laureata mnogobrojnih nagrada i međunarodnih priznanja Valerija Petroviča Kovtuna The Nutcracker in Lisinski is a Christmas fairy tale told through the ballet choreography of a ballet master, and recipient of many awards and international accolades Valery Petrovich Kovtun

Zagreb Card24 98 kn

It also includes discounts at more than 55 locations such as museums, galleries, restaurants, shops, and others. From now on, Zagreb Card can be purchased online within Tourist Information Centre on the Zagreb’s main square.

Zagreb Card72 135 kn

Photo: Juliene Duval

Advantages of Zagreb Card: — Unlimited access to public transportation —Free admission to city attractions

Free admission to the Museum of the City of Zagreb, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb 360° – Zagreb Eye observation deck, and the Zagreb ZOO. For more information, visit our website at www.zagrebcard.com

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 131

ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Zadar

Nadrealni svjetovi Salvadora Dalija The surreal worlds of Salvador Dalí

132 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

The Surreal Worlds of Salvador Dalí exhibition mounted at the National Museum in Zadar in the Rector’s Palace (closing on 15th October) is bringing a selection of some 200 of his most famous graphic works, sculptures, tapestries and reliefs, ceramics, glass objects and Dalí’s recognisable sofa in the shape of the lips of actress Mae West. The exhibition is presenting a selection from his Divine Comedy, Biblia Sacra, and Horses series, and his complete maps of the Three-Cornered Hat, Edades de la Vida, and Homage to Leonardo da Vinci. What brought his art closer to the widest circle of audiences are his graphics, most of which he produced in series printed in maps. The medium of graphic art gave Dalí the chance to illustrate literary works that were particularly close to his heart, or that he wanted to comment on and supplement with his work. The National Museum in Zadar has accompanied the exhibition with an informative programme that closely follows the surreal world that Dalí has brought to Zadar. In addition to guided tours, which are available in Croatian and English, workshops are also on offer suitable for all generations. You can partake in the Best Dalían Photography contest, in creative workshops called Inspired by the Life and Work of Salvador Dalí and the Art of Surrealism, different art workshops (magnet making, drawing, finding a painting, making objects of clay), airbrush workshops called Surreal Zadar, which include fashion drawing and illustration, and textile, pattern and fashion design.

01 Sofa u obliku usana Mae West Dalí’s sofa in the shape of Mae West’s lips 02 Biblia Sacra, 1969. Dalí’s Biblia Sacra series, 1969 03 Vizija anđela, 1977. - 1984. Dalí’s Vision of the Angel, 1977-1984

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos: Narodni muzej Zadar/Zadar National Museum

Izložba naziva Nadrealni svjetovi Salvadora Dalija postavljena u Narodnome muzej Zadar u Kneževoj palači do 15. listopada predstavlja izbor oko 200 najpoznatijih grafičkih listova, skulptura, tapiserija i reljefa, predmeta od keramike, stakla te uvijek prepoznatljive Dalijeve sofe u obliku usana glumice Mae West. Na izložbi možete vidjeti izbor iz njegovih opusa Božanstvena komedija i Biblia Sacra te izbor iz opusa Konji i kompletne mape Trorogi šešir, Edades de la vida i Homage Leonardu da Vinciju. Upravo je grafika područje Dalijeva stvaralaštva koje je njegovu umjetnost približilo najširem krugu publike. Grafički su radovi uglavnom izrađivani serijski i izdavani u mapama. Grafika je istodobno bila izvrsna prilika za Dalija da ilustrira književna djela koja su mu bila posebno bliska ili ona koja je htio komentirati i nadograditi svojim radom. Narodni muzej Zadar popratio je izložbu edukativnom programom koji pomno prati nadrealni svijet koji nam je Dali doveo u Zadar. Osim stručnog vodstva na izložbi, koje je dostupno na hrvatskome i engleskom jeziku, na izložbi vas očekuju radionice primjerene svim generacijama. Sudjelujte u natječaju Najbolja dalijevska fotografija, u kreativnim radionicama Inspiracija likom i djelom Salvadora Dalija i umjetnošću nadrealizma, likovnim radionicama (izrada magneta, crtanje, pronađi sliku, izrada predmeta od gline), radionicama zračnog kista Nadrealni Zadar, koje uključuju modno crtanje i modnu ilustraciju, dizajn tekstila, oblikovanje uzoraka i dizajn odjeće.

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 133

ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Poreč

Istra & Craft Beer Festival Istra & Craft Beer Festival Piše/By _ Alphera Fotografije/Photos _ Mladen Paljuh

U Poreču se od 28. rujna do 6. listopada održava zabavno-gastronomska manifestacija Istra & Craft Beer Festival. Festival je to malih, nezavisnih i craft pivara koji slavi ritam ulice i pruža razne mogućnosti uživanja i opuštanja uz dobru hranu, piće i glazbu, pregršt zabave i odličnih koncerata. Tijekom drugoga Istra & Craft Beer Festivala porečki će ugostitelji nuditi posebne promocije craft piva, a vrhunski specijaliteti upareni s craft pivom moći će se isprobati 3. listopada, kada će Valamarov restoran Spinnaker pripremiti još jednu večer visoke gastronomije, Spinnaker Gourmet Stage. Glavni program u šatoru na porečkoj rivi započinje 4. listopada i traje do 6. listopada, gdje će se predstaviti mali nezavisni i craft pivari. Osim vrhunskog piva festival nudi i primamljivu gastronomsku ponudu street fooda koji se odlično slaže s craft pivom. Da atmosfera bude što bolja, pobrinut će se neki od najvećih hrvatskih glazbenika, među kojima su Jura Stublić, Vojko V, Rambo Amadeus, Pips, Chips & Videoclips te Darko Rundek & Ekipa. Ne propustite drugi Istra & Craft Beer Festival! Between 28th September and 6th October, Poreč is hosting the Istra & Craft Beer Festival, a festival of some of the best small and independent Croatian craft breweries, celebrating the rhythm of the street, and offering you the chance to relax and enjoy good food, drinks and music, a packed entertainment programme and great con-

134 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

certs. During the second edition of the Istra & Craft Beer Festival, in Poreč-based bars and restaurants you’ll get a special deal on craft beers, and on 3rd October you’ll be able to taste special menus paired with craft beer, when the Spinnaker restaurant at the Valamar Riviera Hotel and Residence is preparing an evening of high gastronomy, the Spinnaker Gourmet Stage. The festival’s central event starts on 4th and runs until 6th October in a marquee on the seafront of Poreč, where small and independent craft breweries will be presenting their products. Besides premium quality beer, the festival’s also boasting an enticing offer of street food that goes well with craft beer. To help create a brilliant atmosphere, some of the greatest Croatian musicians will be performing, including Jura Stublić, Vojko V, Rambo Amadeus, Pips, Chips & Videoclips, and Darko Rundek & Ekipa. Don’t miss the 2nd Istra & Craft Beer Festival! www.istracraftbeer.com

Opustite se i uživajte u festivalu koji slavi dobru hranu, pivo i ritam ulice uz nastupe ponajboljih hrvatskih glazbenika Relax and enjoy a festival that celebrates good food, beer and the rhythm of the street with performances by top Croatian musicians

Imamo We

na prave stvari the right things PIK Vrbovec vodeća je mesna industrija u Hrvatskoj i regiji koja se bavi proizvodnjom, prodajom i distribucijom svježeg crvenog mesa i mesnih prerađevina. PIK Vrbovec is the leading meat industry in Croatia and the region dealing with production, sales and distribution of fresh read meat and meat products.

0% SUVIŠNIH DODATAKA PIK Vrbovec jedini je proizvođač mesnih prerađevina u Hrvatskoj koji cijeli asortiman proizvoda pod brandom PIK, proizvodi bez pojačivača okusa, umjetnih bojila, glutena i soje, a sve s ciljem da potrošačima ponudi najkvalitetnije proizvode pročišćene od svih suvišnih sastojaka.

25% MANJE SOLI Vodeći se smjernicama Svjetske zdravstvene organizacije, ali i slijedeći strategiju Republike Hrvatske o smanjenju prekomjernog unosa kuhinjske soli, PIK Vrbovec prvi je u Hrvatskoj predstavio cijeli asortiman mesnih proizvoda koji sadrže 25% manje soli, a istog su prepoznatljivog okusa.

0% ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS PIK Vrbovec is the only producer of meat products in Croatia that produces the complete assortment under PIK brand without flavor enhancers, artificial color, gluten or soy, with a goal to offer the consumers products of the highest quality without any additional ingredients.

25% LESS SALT Following the guidelines of the World Health Organization, as well as the strategy of the Republic of Croatia on the reduction of excessive salt intake, PIK Vrbovec is the first company in Croatia to present a whole range of meat products that contain 25% less salt, while having the same distinctive taste.

SIGURNOST PROIZVODA U PIK-u se godišnje provede do 10 audita kvalitete sustava, 80.000 analiza u vlastitom te 6.000 analiza u državnim laboratorijima, a obavi se i preko 150 službenih veterinarskih kontrola.

CERTIFIKATI KVALITETE PIK se u potpunosti pridržava svih propisa, a sigurnost i kvalitetu proizvoda jamče međunarodni certifikati HACCAP, ISO 9001, ISO 14001, ISO 50001, OHSAS 18001 te IFS Food i IFS Logistics.

FOOD SAFETY Each year PIK undergoes up to 10 quality management audits, performs 80,000 analysis in its own laboratory and 6,000 in state laboratories, along with over 150 official veterinary controls.

QUALITY CERTIFICATES PIK is fully compliant with all regulations, and the safety and quality of PIK’s products is guaranteed by international certificates HACCAP, ISO 9001, ISO 14001, ISO 50001, OHSAS 18001, and IFS Food and IFS Logistics.

NAGRADE I PRIZNANJA Kvalitetu PIK-ovih proizvoda potvrđuju i brojne nagrade i priznanja – Europska poslovna nagrada, Odabrani proizvod godine, Best Buy, Odabrale mame, Cropak, Qudal i mnoge druge. PRIZES AND AWARDS The quality of PIK products is confirmed by numerous awards and recognitions – European Business Award, Product of the Year, Best Buy, Chosen by Croatian Moms, Cropak, Qudal and many others.

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 135

Listopad October

Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings

15. Internacionalni festival eksperimentalnog filma i videa 15th International Experimental Film and Video Festival

Dvadeset godina likovne Grupe Contra Contra Art Group’s 20th anniversary

26. ∑ 29. 9., Zagreb Na festivalu koji prati najnoviju produkciju avangardnoga i eksperimentalnog filma možete pogledati zanimljive filmove koje će vam predstaviti autori u zagrebačkome Studentskom centru. This is a festival that screens the latest production of avantgarde and experimental films presented by their authors at the Student Centre in Zagreb. www.25fps.hr

17. 10. ∑ 24. 11., Zagreb Izložba Grupe Contra predstavlja izbor slikarskih, kiparskih i scenografskih ostvarenja umjetnika koji zadnjih dvadeset godina djeluju kao neformalna umjetnička grupa. Riječ je o slikarima Željku Mucku, Vladimiru Blažanoviću, Goranu Petraču, Velimiru Račkom, Davorinu Radiću, Vladimiru Megliću, kiparima Petru Ujeviću i Tihomiru Lončaru te glazbeniku i scenografu Žoržu Draušniku.

Heroj ulice d.o.o.

Rujan September

Koncert Prljavog kazališta Prljavo Kazalište in concert

Varaždin i okolica Varaždin and surroundings

20. 9. ∑ 1. 10., Varaždin Ovaj specijalizirani festival rane glazbe jedan je od najeminentnijih festivala te vrste u svijetu, a ove je godine zemlja partner festivala Švedska. Varaždinske barokne večeri održavaju se u baroknim crkvama i palačama u Varaždinu, ali i izvan grada. This specialised early music festival is one of the most eminent festivals of this kind in the world, partnered by Sweden this year. The Varaždin Baroque evenings are held in baroque churches and palaces in both Varaždin and its surroundings. vbv.hr

136 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Iris Poljan ∂ Moderna galerija Zagreb

49. Varaždinske barokne večeri 49th Varaždin Baroque Evenings

The Contra Art Group’s exhibition is bringing a selection of paintings, sculptures and sets by artists who’ve worked as an informal art group called Contra for the last twenty years. These are painters Željko Mucko, Vladimir Blažanović, Goran Petrač, Velimir Rački, Davorin Radić, Vladimir Meglić, sculptors Petar Ujević and Tihomir Lončar, and musician and set designer Žorž Draušnik. www.moderna-galerija.hr

18. & 19. 10., Zagreb Jedan od najpopularnijih domaćih rock sastava koji je 42 godine na sceni nastupit će u zagrebačkoj Areni kako bi obilježio 30 godina od legendarnog koncerta 1989., kad se okupilo više od 250.000 ljudi, a taj je nastup jedan od najznačajnijih u modernoj hrvatskoj glazbenoj povijesti. One of Croatia’s most popular rock bands ∑ who’ve been performing for 42 years ∑ is having a concert at the Zagreb Arena to mark the 30th anniversary of their legendary 1989 concert, which drew more than 250,000 people, and which is

considered to be one of the most important performances in modern Croatian music history. www.eventim.hr Dani Orisa Days of Oris 19. & 20. 10., Zagreb Riječ je o međunarodnom arhitektonskom simpoziju koji organiziraju časopis Oris i Oris Kuća arhitekture. Dvodnevno događanje, koje se održava u dvorani Lisinski od 2001. godine, predstavlja najznačajnija imena svjetske arhitektonske scene, a svake godine okuplja više od 2000 posjetitelja, arhitekata i dizajnera.

This is an international architecture symposium organised by the Oris magazine and the Oris House of Architecture. This two-day event ∑ which has been held at the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall since 2001 ∑ is hosting some of the biggest names in architecture, drawing more than 2000 visitors, architects and designers each year. oris.hr Gospić i okolica Gospić and surroundings Jesen u Lici Autumn in Lika 4. ∑ 6. 10., Gospić Na ovoj se manifestaciji prezentiraju tradicijske vrijednosti Like, a već tradicionalno ocjenjuju se med i rakija. U autentičnoj atmosferi posjetitelji imaju prigodu čuti izvornu narodnu pjesmu, ples ličkoga kraja, ali i vidjeti izradu proizvoda od gline, bukara, tamburica itd. This festival’s presenting the traditions of the region of Lika, with honey and rakija brandy rated and ranked every year. In an authentic atmosphere, visitors have the chance to listen to original folk songs, and to see Lika’s folk dances, and the manufacturing of products made of clay, wooden ewers, tamburica lutes, etc. www.plitvickedoline.hr Pula i okolica Pula and surroundings 10. Festival terana i tartufa 10th Teran and Truffle Festival 19. 10., Motovun Ova jednodnevna izložba i degustacija terana okuplja istarske vinare. U ponudi su i jela od tartufa koja se najbolje sljubljuju s tom starom istarskom sortom. This one-day Teran-tasting festival’s presenting Istrian winemakers. Truffle dishes that pair best with this old Istrian variety of grape are also on offer. www.istra.hr

138 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Studeni November Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Zagreb Film Festival 7. ∑ 17. 11., Zagreb Festival će se održati na uobičajenim gradskim lokacijama ∑ u kinu Europa, kinu Tuškanac, MSU-u. Ove godine festival nam donosi preko stotinu projekcija i filmova te čak petnaestak programa. Od samog početka programski je usmjeren predstavljanju i promociji debitantskih filmova i novih autora. The festival’s taking place at usual city locations ∑ the Europa Cinema, the Tuškanac Cinema, and the Museum of Contemporary Art. This year’s festival is bringing more than a hundred screenings and movies, as well as some fifteen different programmes. Since its very beginnings, the festival’s main aim has been to present and promote debut films and new authors. zff.hr 42. Interliber 42nd Interliber 12. ∑ 17. 11., Zagreb Na Zagrebačkom velesajmu posjetite ovaj vodeći sajam knjiga. Izlagači predstavljaju svoja najnovija izdanja. Možete sudjelovati u panel raspravama poznatih pisaca i zanimljivim radionicama. This is a leading book fair organised at the Zagreb Fair, where exhibitors present their latest publications, where famous writers partake in panel discussions, and where interesting workshops are held. www.zv.hr/interliber Reboot InfoGamer 12. ∑ 17. 11., Zagreb Posjetite osmo po redu izdanje jednog od najvećih gaming sajmova i festivala u Europi koji će se održati na Zagrebačkom velesajmu. I ove godine fokus će biti na

predstavljanju najnovijih igara, hardvera itd. This is the eighth edition of one of the biggest gaming fairs and festivals in Europe to be held at the Zagreb Fair. This year, too, Reboot InfoGamer’s focusing on presenting the latest games, hardware, etc. www.rebootinfogamer.hr Osijek i okolica Osijek and surroundings Martinje u Kutjevu The Feast of St. Martin in Kutjevo 10. 11., Kutjevo Riječ je o tradicionalnoj turističkoj manifestaciji koja okuplja veliki broj posjetitelja. Na Trgu graševine odvija se obred krštenja mošta, zabavni program i degustacija mladih vina kutjevačkog vinogorja, a u ponudi je i bogata slavonska gastro ponuda. This is a traditional tourist event that draws a large number of visitors. The Graševina Square in Kutjevo is hosting the ritual of the christening of young wine, an entertainment programme and a tasting of young wines from vineyards in the Kutjevo region, all of which is complemented by a rich offer of Slavonian dishes and foods. www.tzkutjevo.hr Rijeka i okolica Rijeka and surroundings 21. Kup Lošinja ∑ regata Optimista 21st Lošinj Cup ∑ The Optimists Regatta 1. ∑ 3. 11., Mali Lošinj

Regatno polje smješteno je ispred uvale Čikat, a očekuje se mnoštvo natjecatelja iz Slovenije, Mađarske, Bugarske, Slovačke, Italije i Hrvatske. The regatta’s taking place outside Čikat Bay, and great many competitors from Slovenia, Hungary, Bulgaria, Slovakia, Italy and Croatia are expected. www.visitlosinj.hr

Prosinac December Dubrovnik i okolica Dubrovnik and surroundings 6. Dubrovački zimski festival 6th Dubrovnik Winter Festival 30. 11., Dubrovnik Otvaranje festivala obilježit će i tradicionalno paljenje prve adventske svijeće te blagdanske rasvjete koja će obasjati zimsko ruho gradske povijesne jezgre. Uz niz koncerata na Stradunu, najljepšoj otvorenoj pozornici, Dubrovački simfonijski orkestar održat će tradicionalni Božićni koncert 21. prosinca. The festival traditionally opens with the lighting of the first of the four Advent wreath candles and Christmas lights that will be illuminating the winter attire of Dubrovnik’s historic town centre. In addition to a series of concerts to be held on Stradun, Dubrovnik’s main street and a most beautiful open-air stage, the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra is holding a traditional Christmas concert on 21st December. www.dubrovackizimskifestival.com

HEROJI IMAJU SVOJ KRAJ, ALI PRIČE O NJIMA NE. Kulturno-turistička ruta „Putovima Frankopana“ obuhvaća 20 lokacija na području regije Kvarner koje pričaju priču o slavnoj plemićkoj obitelji. Vladali su širokim teritorijem i povlačili konce između drugih velikaških obitelji, dvorova i centara moći, a danas kroz njihovu ostavštinu možete upoznati krajolike i tradiciju regije Kvarner.

Jeste li znali? Frankopani su bili poznati po profinjenom kulinarskom ukusu. Obožavali su kreativne recepte i jako začinjena jela. Tradiciju danas nastavljaju brojni kvarnerski restorani.

THE HEROES’ LIFETIME IS LIMITED, BUT THEIR STORIES NEVER END. The “Routes of Frankopans“ cultural route includes 20 locations throughout the Kvarner region where local heritage and many traditions have deep connections with the noble family of Frankopans. From 12th to 17th century, Frankopans were influencers and diplomats, sponsors and politicians. Through their glorious stories, visitors can fully discover and enjoy the Kvarner region in Croatia.

Did you know? Frankopans were foodies. They particularly loved creative recipes and spicy dishes. Nowadays, restaurants across the region continue appreciating creative cuisine.

www.frankopani.eu

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoË nu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvat skoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊi ma i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniË no. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovni ka), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Hrvatska je međunarodno priznata 15. siječnja 1992. godine, a od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica je Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the ea st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the offi cial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recogniti on on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sje verni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine,

140 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od naj ljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Nor thern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature pro tection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe. Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spo menicima iz svih razdoblja zbog burnih po vijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakral na baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinen talna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapo vijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spome niËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u sred njovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, tako er je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of in fluences of different cultures. Its coast is cha

racterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monu ments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cul tural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNE SCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphra sius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Cro atia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage. Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacional nog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism. Croatia is close not only because of its geographic position, but also because of its network of airports and the top quality services provided by Croatia Airlines, its

national carrier, as well as other airliners. Also, due to its network of highways and semi-motorways, Croatia is closer than ever. If you have decided to spend your vacation on any one of the numerous islands in Croatia, even the most distant ones, it will take less than 2 hours by ferry or hydrofoil from the mainland. Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kuna je na ziv novËane jedinice Republi ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp), (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje

kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, Ame rican Expres s, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are bank notes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth. Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Master card), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalna / regular sezonska ljetna / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 141

ZRAČNA LUKA SPLIT SPLIT AIRPORT

Kao svemirski brod Like a spaceship Piše/By _ Mario Pušić Fotografije/Photos _ Alan Grubelić

mjesto krova ima vlastiti nebeski svod sa zvijezdama, suncem i kišom − tako se barem čini ispod prozirne kupole koja zamjenjuje krov. Pogled ulijevo prema svjetlima Splita, udesno prema osunčanome Trogiru, a ravno prema moru koje ih spaja jest panoramski iako niste u zrakoplovu, nego ste samo došli na vidikovac terminala uživati u njihovu slijetanju i uzlijetanju u novu Zračnu luku Split, što se u sezoni u pravilu događa svakih pet minuta. Splitska zračna luka prve je putnike primi

142 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

Croatia Airlines i Zračna luka Split oduvijek imaju sasvim poseban odnos. Na prvom povijesnom letu 1991. godine zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa sletio je upravo u Zračnu luku Split, a otada do danas pro met prema toj nedavno obnovljenoj zračnoj luci, koju zbog atraktivna izgleda neki već nazivaju svemirskom, nezaustavljivo raste. Croatia Airlines and the Split Airport have always had a very special relationship. Croatia Airlines’ first ever historic flight was to the Split Airport. Since then, traffic to this recently renovated airport ∑ which has, given its attractive design, already been described as spaceship-like ∑ has been growing steadily. la 1966. godine; tada je bila veličine ma njeg autobusnog kolodvora. U nekoliko je navrata proširivana, no ulaskom Hrvatske u Europsku uniju dogodio se pravi bum, a ovogodišnji je srpanj s više od 700.000 putnika bio rekordni mjesec u povijesti svih hrvatskih zračnih luka. Prostor za povećanje tih brojeva postoji, posebno u

predsezoni i posezoni jer i Split postaje sve traženije turističko odredište tijekom cijele godine. Aerodromska je infrastruk tura u cijelosti podređena putnicima. Novim terminalom vrijednim 450 milijuna kuna i puštenim u promet usred rekor dnog srpnja kvadratura je učetverostruče na, protočnost ubrzana, više nema gužvi,

a onda ni stresa, kako za putnike tako i za zaposlenike. Cijeli je sustav podijeljen na dva dijela: tzv. landside te airside ili kopnenu i zračnu stranu. Ulazak u airside, dakako, mnogo je zahtjevniji zbog sigurnosnih provje ra koje vrijede za sve, od direktora do osoblja. Na toj je strani ono što putnici u pravilu ne zamjećuju, brzinu i red kojim se odvijaju složeni poslovi ukrcaja i iskrcaja putnika, opskrbe zrakoplova gorivom i namirnicama, pražnjenje toaleta i ubaci vanje prtljage. Na drugoj, kopnenoj strani aerodroma život je, dakako, puno opušteniji. S golemog parkirališta prilazi se 120-metar skim mostom s pokretnim stepenicama i pogledom na 1000 maslina zasađenih pred zgradom. Ulaskom u zračnu luku otvara se prostor prema svodu s početka priče ispod kojega su restoran i vidiko vac; naprijed su check-in terminali, lijevo odlasci. Središnji stakleni most koji sve to povezuje doista izgleda kao zapovjed ni most kakvoga svemirskog broda, na koji nova Zračna luka Split neodoljivo podsjeća. A Croatia Airlines i Zračna luka Split toliko su isprepletene da se za bolje upozna vanje njihova međusobnog odnosa treba vratiti gotovo trideset godina unatrag. Naime, prvi, povijesni let zrakoplova Cro atia Airlinesa dogodio se još za vrijeme Domovinskog rata, kad je 5. svibnja 1991. zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa, u kojemu je tada bio i prvi hrvatski predsjednik Franjo Tuđman, sletio upravo u Zračnu luku Split. Od tada do danas promet zrako plova Croatia Airlinesa prema splitskog zračnoj luci i iz nje nezaustavljivo raste tako da je dosad na toj relaciji prevezeno 11,456.917 putnika na 152.850 letova. Croatia Airlines više je puta u splitskoj zračnoj luci nagrađivao svoje jubilarne putnike, baš kao što su jubilarni putnici Zračne luke Split zabilježeni upravo na letovima hrvatskoga nacionalnog aviopri jevoznika. Primjerice, samo je u nedav noj prošlosti Croatia Airlines zabilježio svojega milijuntog putnika u 2017. godini na letu iz Frankfurta u Split, a svojega dvomilijuntog putnika u 2018. godini na letu iz Münchena u Split. A Zračna luka Split zabilježila je svojega lanjskoga tro milijuntog putnika upravo na letu Croatia Airlinesa iz Frankfurta u Split.

Ne treba sumnjati da i splitsku zračnu luku i hrvatsku nacionalnu aviokompaniju očekuje još mnogo zajedničkih trenutaka  koji će obilježiti budućnost.

nstead of a roof, it has its own vault of stars, sun and rain − it, at least, appears so beneath its transparent dome for a roof. The view to the left towards the lights of Split, to the right towards sunny Trogir, and straight ahead towards the sea that connects the two is panoramic even

though you’re not on an airplane, but are standing on the airport’s observation deck enjoying the sight of airplanes landing and taking off at the new Split Airport, with one either landing or taking off every five minutes during the season. The Split Airport received its very first passengers back in 1966, when it was the size of a smaller bus terminal. It’s been expanded several times since then, and Croatia joining the European Union led to a boom, with this year’s July − when more

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 143

Život splitske zračne luke oduvijek je bio dinamičan. Osamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća proširivana je zbog Mediteranskih igara. U devedesetima je preživjela Domovinski rat. Od ulaska Hrvatske u EU broj se putnika utrostručio i iznosi 3,2 milijuna na godinu. Za novi izgled zaslužan je arhitekt Ivan Vulić. The Split Airport has always had a very dynamic life. In the 1980s it was expanded because of the Mediterranean Games. In the 1990s it survived the Homeland War. Since Croatia joined the EU, its number of passengers has tripled, reaching 3.2 million passengers a year. The new Split Airport was designed by architect Ivan Vulić.

than 700,000 passengers were recorded − being a record month in the history of all Croatian airports. There’s room for an increase in these numbers, particularly in the pre- and post-season, considering that Split’s becoming an increasingly sought-after tourist destination throughout the year. The airport infrastructure is fully passengerorientated. The new terminal is − worth HRK 450 million and opened in the middle of the record-breaking month of July − four times bigger than the old one, its passenger flow has been improved, with crowds no longer forming, meaning that there’s no cause for stress with either passengers or employees. The entire airport system is divided into two parts − its landside and airside. Entering the airport’s airside is, of course, much more difficult because of the security checks that apply to everyone from airport managers to staff. This is the side of airports that passengers are generally completely unaware of, the order and speed at which complex boarding- and deboardingrelated operations take place, the supply of aircraft with fuel and food, the emptying of aircraft lavatory tanks, and the loading and unloading of luggage. On the other, landside of the airport, life is, of course, much more relaxed. You reach the airport from its huge parking lot by crossing a 120-metre long escalator bridge overlooking 1000 olive trees planted in front of the airport building. Once you enter the building, the space before you opens up to the vault from the beginning of this story, below which is a restaurant and the observation deck. The check-in desks are

144 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

ahead, and the departure gates to the left. The central glass bridge that connects it all really does look like a command bridge of a spaceship of sorts, which the new Split Airport irresistibly reminds of. Croatia Airlines and the Split Airport are so inextricably intertwined that we need to go back in time, some thirty years or so to be precise, to be able to understand their special relationship. More specifically, Croatia Airlines’ first ever historic flight was operated during the Homeland War, that is, on 5th May 1991, when a Croatia Airlines aircraft − flying, amongst others, the first Croatian president, Mr Franjo Tuđman − landed at the Split Airport. Ever since then, Croatia Airlines’ traffic to and from the Split

Airport has been growing unstoppably, that is, Croatia Airlines flew 11,456,917 passengers to or from Split on 152,850 flights. More often than not, Croatia Airlines recorded and awarded its jubilee passengers exactly at the Split Airport, just as the Split Airport recorded and awarded its jubilee passengers on flights operated exactly by the Croatian national carrier. In the recent past alone, for example, Croatia Airlines recorded its one millionth passenger in 2017 on a flight from Frankfurt to Split, and its two millionth passenger in 2018 on a flight from Munich to Split. And in 2018, the Split Airport recorded its three millionth passenger on a Croatia Airlines flight from Frankfurt to Split. There should be no doubt that both the Split Airport and the Croatian national carrier have a bright future ahead of them, with many great moments that the two will  share.

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

_ 145

NOVOSTI NEWS SLAVIMO 30. ROĐENDAN Na tridesetu obljetnicu naše tvrtke, 7. ko lovoza, za naše smo putnike u hrvatskim i inozemnim odredištima te na domaćim i međunarodnim letovima pripremili poseb na iznenađenja i nagrade. Na našim letovima iz Zagreba u Split i Frankfurt (OU 654 i OU 461) nagradili smo dvije putnice s po dvije povratne aviokar te u međunarodnom prometu, a putnike počastili kolačima i podijelili im prigodne darove. Odabrali smo upravo te letove jer naš je prvi let u domaćem prometu bio let iz Zagreba u Split 5. svibnja 1991., a let iz Zagreba u Frankfurt 5. travnja 1992. godine bio je naš prvi međunarodni let. I u našoj smo zagrebačkoj poslovnici na Zrinjevcu počastili putnike kavom i kolačima, a jednu putnicu nagradili smo povratnom aviokartom u domaćem prometu. Dragi naši putnici, zahvaljujemo vam na povjerenju u proteklih 30 godina i veselimo se našim novim zajedničkim letovima! NOVOSTI U ZIMSKOM REDU LETENJA Predstojeći zimski red letenja (27. 10. 2019. ∑ 28. 3. 2020.) prilagodit ćemo potrebama svojih putnika u zimskom razdoblju. Novost je da ćemo i tijekom zimskog reda letenja prvi put letjeti na relaciji Zagreb ∑ Dublin, svaki četvrtak i nedjelju, do 26. siječnja. Nastavit ćemo letjeti iz Zagreba u Barcelonu četvrtkom i nedjeljom (do 12. siječnja), a u Mostar u iste dane tijekom cijele godine. Iz Dubrov nika u Frankfurt također možete poletjeti tijekom cijele godine utorkom, četvrtkom i nedjeljom. Sve informacije o našim letovi ma potražite na www.croatiaairlines.hr ili m.croatiaairlines.hr te na tel. +385 1 6676 555 / 072 500 505.

Croatia Airlines’ first ever domestic flight was from Zagreb to Split on 5th May 1991, while our first ever international flight was from Zagreb to Frankfurt on 5th April 1992. At our Zagreb office in Zrinjevac Park, we also treated our passengers to coffee and cake, and we awarded one passenger a return air ticket to a domestic destination. Dear passengers, thank you for the 30 years of your trust and loyalty. We look forward to our future flights together!

CELEBRATING OUR 30th BIRTHDAY To mark the 30th anniversary of our company, on 7th August we prepared special surprises and awards for our passengers at both Croatian and foreign destinations, as well as on our domestic and international flights. On our flights from Zagreb to Split and to Frankfurt (OU 654 and OU 461), we awarded two passengers two international return air tickets each, treating all the passengers to cake and presenting them with gifts. We chose these flights because

146 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

NEWS IN THE WINTER TIMETABLE Croatia Airlines will adapt the upcoming winter timetable (27th October 2019-28th March 2020) to the needs of its passengers during the period of winter. The news is that we’ll be flying between Zagreb and Dublin for the first time during the winter timetable, and this every Thursday and Sunday, until 26th January. We’ll continue to fly from Zagreb to Barcelona on Thursdays and Sundays (until 12th January), and to Mostar

Dobitnica Izidora Skračić na našem letu Zagreb-Frankfurt Winner Izidora Skračić on our Zagreb-Frankfurt flight

also on Thursdays and Sundays throughout the year. You can also fly from Dubrovnik to Frankfurt all year round on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. For all information about our flights and offers, please visit www.croatiaairlines.com or m.croatiaairlines. com, or call our Contact Centre at +385 1 6676 555 or 072 500 505.

KRENIMO ZAJEDNO NA PUTOVANJE U SVIJET POGODNOSTI.

Postanite korisnik Visa Gold Croatia Airlines kartice bez upisnine i članarine* • 4 potrošene kune = 1 Miles & More nagradna milja • 2.000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu • obročna otplata do 24 rate bez kamata i naknada • dvostruke milje za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela

www.pbz.hr

www.pbzcard-premium.hr

* Pogodnost vrijedi za prvu godinu korištenja Visa Gold Croatia Airlines kartice, za sve pristupnice primljene do 31.12.2019. Ovaj oglas je informativnog karaktera i ne predstavlja obvezujuću ponudu za PBZ i PBZ Card.

Bank of CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

_ 147

148 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

_ 149

150 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 151

Visa Gold Croatia Airlines kartica - 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune potrošene preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja - 2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike - 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana - Putno osiguranje - Milje ne zastarijevaju - Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela

PRIKUPLJANJE MILJA NA LETOVIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA COLLECTING MILES ON CROATIA AIRLINES FLIGHTS

152 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

EN >

Visa Gold Croatia Airlines card - 4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - 2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users - Travel insurance - Miles do not expire - Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croatia Airlines and PBZ Card Travel

Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica - 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potrošenih preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja. - Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno plaćajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. - 2 kartice − 1 račun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na istom računu Miles & More.

Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card - 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile

VISA Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potrošnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potrošenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna Miles & More milja.

VISA Croatia Airlines credit card Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines standalone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 HRK spent via standalone credit card whereas for every 7 HRK spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Više informacija možete pronaći na:

Please find detailed info at:

www.milesandmore.com

- Collect award miles everywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad - 2 credit cards − 1 Miles & More membership account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account

Colour your experience!

T +385 20 773 100 F +385 20 773 322 E headoffice@airport-dubrovnik.hr www.airport-dubrovnik.hr

SPREMNI ZA LET? READY TO FLY?

8kg RUČNA PRTLJAGA

HAND BAGGAGE

Dopuštena ručna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda je 1 komad, a za putnike poslovnog razreda 2 komada (težine do 8 kg i zbroja dimenzija do 115 cm) Veće komade ručne prtljage spremite u pretince, a manje torbe označene privjeskom Prtljaga za avion stavite ispod sjedala ispred vas, osim u redovima kod izlaza za slučaj opasnosti. Dodatno, svaki putnik može ponijeti u kabinu: - 1 komad osobne prtljage najveće dopuštene veličine 40x30x10 cm - putuje li s djetetom do 2 g. - 1 dječja kolica ili autosjedalicu ili nosiljku te hranu za bebe - bolesne i invalidne osobe mogu ponijeti ortopedska pomagala ili protetske naprave

The hand baggage allowance for economy class passengers is 1 piece and for business class passengers 2 pieces (weighing up to 8 kg, whose total sum of dimensions does not exceed 115 cm). Your hand baggage must be stowed in overhead compartments. All smaller bags with a Carry-on Baggage tag must be placed under the seat in front of you, except in emergency exit rows. Each passenger may additionally take into the passenger cabin the following: - 1 personal item whose maximum size does not exceed 40x30x10 cm (16x12x4 in); - each passenger travelling with a child under 2 years of age is also allowed to take aboard 1 infant's carrying basket or a fully collapsible stroller/pushchair or a car seat and baby food; - disabled passengers may also take 1 pair of crutches and/or braces or any other prosthetic device.

20 cm 100ml

30 cm

100ml

20 cm TEKUĆINE U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI U zrakoplov se smiju unositi: - tekućine kupljene u duty free prodavaonicama ili u zrakoplovu, pod uvjetom da su spremljene u prozirne plastične vrećice, zapečaćene prilikom kupnje (STEB) i ne smiju se otvarati do krajnjeg odredišta - tekućine pakirane u pojedinačnim pakiranjima do 100 ml ili 100 g u prozirnoj plastičnoj vrećici sa zatvaračem do 1 litre - tekućine koje se tijekom leta koriste u medicinske svrhe ili zbog posebnih prehrambenih potreba (dječja hrana). Ostale tekućine mogu se prevoziti u predanoj prtljazi. LIQUIDS IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

Carry-on baggage

10 cm

Please place this bag under the seat in front of you.

The following can be taken aboard our aircraft:

Not for exit rows.

40 cm

55 cm

20 cm

40 cm

- liquids purchased in airside duty free shops past the airport security check, provided they are stored in transparent plastic bags, sealed when purchased (STEB) and remain unopened until your final destination; - liquids packed in individual packaging up to 100 ml or 100 gr and stored in a transparent plastic bag with a zipper (up to maximally 1 litre); - liquids that are to be used during flights for medical purposes or for special nutritional needs (baby food). Other liquids can be transported in your checked baggage.

Cruise

o ŽIVOTINJE U PUTNIČKOJ KABINI U kabini se istodobno mogu prevoziti samo dvije životinje - dva psa ili dvije mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke na istome letu nije dozvoljen. Životinje mogu putovati isključivo u torbi za nošenje i prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca, a tijekom cijeloga leta moraju biti u torbi ispod prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje se zbog veličine ne mogu prevoziti u putničkoj kabini prevoze se u prtljažniku zrakoplova. Putnik je dužan pribaviti potrebnu dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba unaprijed rezervirati i dodatno se plaća u poslovnicama. ANIMALS IN THE PASSENGER CABIN On the same flight, only two animals can be transported at the same time either two dogs or two cats. The transportation of dogs and cats on the same flight is not permitted. A passenger can carry only one pet bag to be held under the seat in front of the passenger throughout the entire flight. Animals that cannot be transported in the passenger cabin due to their size are transported in the aircraft hold if they meet certain conditions. Passengers are required to obtain all the necessary documentation. Animal transportation must be booked in advance at an additional charge to be paid in any branch office.

ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena je isključivo u zrakoplovnom radu, a teže i veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obaveznoga vezanja.

Dopuštene elektroničke naprave: - mobilni / pametni telefoni - tablet računala - slušalice za suzbijanje buke - digitalni audio / MP3 uređaji - elektroničke igre - e-čitači - prijenosna / notebook računala - prijenosni DVD / CD uređaji - Bluetooth uređaji - kamere - medicinski uređaji - električni brijaći aparati Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: - elektronički uređaji za simuliranje pušenja - samobalansirajući uređaji koji sadrže litijeve baterije nisu dozvoljeni u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

ELECTRONIC DEVICES IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

The use of electronic devices is allowed only in airplane mode. Heavy and large devices must be stored away while the seat belt sign is on. Electronic devices allowed aboard our aircraft: - mobile/smart telephones - tablet computers - noise-cancelling headphones - digital audio/MP3 players - electronic games - e-book readers - laptop/notebook computers - portable DVD/CD players - Bluetooth devices - cameras - medical devices - electric shavers Electronic devices not allowed aboard our aircraft: - electric smoking simulation devices - self-balancing devices that run on lithium batteries are not allowed in either your hand baggage or checked baggage

Zakonom je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi. To su eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine i čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva itd. ITEMS NOT ALLOWED The carrying of hazardous items and materials in either your hand baggage or checked baggage is prohibited by law. These are explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials, infectious substances and poisons, weapons, compressed gases, corrosive and oxidising agents, etc.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA Svi su obroci i pića u našim zrakoplovima besplatni, a usluga ovisi o razredu prijevoza, duljini leta i dobu dana. Nudimo vam mogućnost kupnje na letu u našem Sky shopu. Za posebne prigode postoji mogućnost kupnje torte i pjenušca koje poslužujemo na letu. Dopuštena je konzumacija samo onih alkoholnih pića koja su poslužena u zrakoplovu. SERVICE DURING FLIGHTS All meals and drinks aboard our aircraft are free of charge, and the service offered depends on the travel class, the length of flight and the part of day of the flight. During your flight, you can shop in our Sky Shop. For special occasions, a cake and sparkling wine can be purchased to be served during the flight. The consumption of only those alcoholic beverages that are served aboard our aircraft is allowed.

www.croatiaairlines.com

156 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft. Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

35,8 / 117

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg) 73 500

64 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2019

_ 157

Starting point is constant. Just choose a destination. Choose your path.

158 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

Helsinki Oslo

Stockholm

St. Petersburg

Dublin Copenhagen

Amsterdam

London

Berlin Dusseldorf

Brussels Frankfurt

Paris

Prague

Munich

Vienna

ZĂźrich Lyon

Milan Venice

Zagreb

Pula

Lisbon

Osijek Belgrade Sarajevo

Zadar Split Bol Mostar Dubrovnik

Barcelona

Bucharest

Rijeka

Rome

Skopje

Athens

Tel Aviv

Code Share Partners

Star Aliance Members

Air Canada

Adria Airways

Eva Air

Asiana

Aegean

LOT Polish Airlines

Air Canada

Lufthansa

Swiss International Air Lines

Air China

Scandinavian Airlines

Air France

Air India

Shenzhen Airlines

Austrian Airlines

Air New Zealand

Singapore Airlines

Lufthansa

ANA - All Nippon Airways

South African Airways

TAP Portugal

Asiana Airlines

Swiss

Air India

Austrian Airlines

TAP Air Portugal

Brussels Airlines

Avianca

Thai Airways International

SAS

Avianca Brasil

Turkish Airlines

Brussels Airlines

United Airlines

Alitalia

Copa Airlines